Spain Volume II

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Act on Copyright
in Literary and Artistic Works
The Ministry of Justice
March 1, 1996
Stockholm
(Act 1960:729, of December 30, 1960, as amended up to January 1, 1996).
CHAPTER 1.
Subject Matter and Scope
Article 1.
Anyone who has created a literary or artistic work shall have copyright in that work, regardless of whether it is
1. a fictional or descriptive representation in writing or speech,
2. a computer program,
3. a musical or dramatic work,
4. a cinematographic work,
5. a photographic work or another work of fine arts,
6. a work of architecture or applied art,
7. a work expressed in some other manner.
Maps and other works of a descriptive nature executed as drawings, engravings, or in a three-dimensional form,
shall be considered as literary works.
Barcelona
Madrid
Malaga
SPAIN
Tarragona
Palma de
Mallorca
El Chorro could be called a "brutal but beautiful area" since
it and the surrounding countryside are dry, steep and almost
inaccessible. To get to most of the crags you have to make
your way through railway tunnels. Reaching many of the
crags takes an hour or more on foot! Even so, El Chorro is
one of the most famous rock climbing areas in Europe, the
reason being simply that there are many nice routes and
beautiful crags.
Because of its location in the south of Spain rock climbing
is possible throughout the winter even though it can sometimes
be cold and there may even be snow. El Chorro with two
outlying areas offers 650 routes.
The island of Mallorca, provides excellent rock climbing in
beautiful surroundings. The routes here offer all kinds of
difficulty, from easy rock climbing to really hard rock climbing
routes. If you are prepared to take your time, the small roads
on the East of the island will lead you to beautiful rock
climbing. Mallorca is a good choice for both families and
hard rock climbers. 916 climbing routes
Montserrat with its conglomerate mountain rock could
almost be from another planet. In the middle of a primarily
flat countryside the Montserrat peaks seem to rise out of
nowhere. The area looks like a giant' s playground where
they have been making sandcastles of concrete. Many of the
towers that provide superb rock climbing or mountaineering
are visible from the Barcelona. The Topos cover 350 climbing
routes, most of them is traditional rock climbing.
The mountains of Prades are formed by a range that rises
sharply to the north out of the plains of the Camp of Tarragona.
This excellent example of Mediterranean mountain range,
dominated by high plateaus, broken by crags and gully's built
on a complex geology that shows surprising materials as the
red clays and white chalks of the crags. We present five rock
climbing areas, Arboli, La Mussara, La Riba, Mont-ral and
Siurana, all of them located near the nice city of Tarragona.
The Topos cover 1700 routes. (Spain volume 1).
Spain offers many beautiful rock climbing spots, warm weather, sun and beaches. coronn.com present the areas that are regarded to be some of the best.
Together they offer more than 3600 rock climbing routes. To these spots you can find cheap flights during each time of the year and Spain, with friendly
people, good food and a lot of culture events offers more than climbing, it is also a beautiful country for resting days.

c
o
r
o
n
n
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c
o
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Download wallpapers and
screensavers from the area, free
at www.coronn.com
Visit www.coronn.com and see
our gallery of rock climbing
pictures.
At the web site you can get more
information about each climbing
area and see a lot of pictures
from each spot.
How you can use the Topos Symboles
Sunny
crag, often
facing South
Crag with little sun,
often facing North,
East or West or
located in the shadow
Overhanging crag,
protected from rain
1.2. Andonno, Paretino dell onda
South
30 m. Multi Pitch 40 m.
coronn.com
24
See 1.3.
See
route
no. 60
1.4.
47,
48
49
53
52 51 50
57
55,
56
58
56
24. Spigolo Manolo-Dog 6a+,7a+
47. Viet 6b
48. Platoon ?
49. Ghillie Dhu 6c
50. Zobra 6b
51. Luna 6c
52. Alduino il druido 6c
53. Grizzly 7a,7a+
54. Acqua chiara 7a+
55. Buon Anno 7b+
56. Zero in Condotta 7b+
57. Steston ?
58. Tutto da rifare 8a
59. Xy ?
54
59
The Topos is published as a PDF and in the computer (or PDA, Cell-phone) you can take benefit of
the possibilities that the program offer.
On the coronn.com sketches there is a lot of links to use as shortcuts to navigate in the document.
In the left lower corner there is always links to Roadmaps or Key-maps (in case there are one).
At the sketch itself, there is sometimes links to a detailed part of the crag or to the continuing part
of the crag.
You can also use the Bookmarks, hidden in a vertical menu on the left side. From here you can
navigate directly to chosen area or to the crag you want to see.
You can also use the Search function (has a binoculars as a symbol), write the name of the area, the
crag or even the route and the program will find it for you.
In some cases the links in coronn.com Topos leads you on the Internet to web sites where you can
get more information.
Rock climbing is a dangerous sport. This Topos is not a
substitute for experience and proper judgement. We accept
no liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers,
third parties, or property arising from use of the information
on this home page or on the TOPOS that are distributed
from coronn.com.
coronn.com
Address:
Via Aradolo 4a
12010 Andonno (CN)
ITALY
email:
info@coronn.com Published 2007, May
Antequera
Villanueva
Valle de
Abdalagis
Estacin
Ardales
Teba
lora
Carratraca
Pizarra
Coin
Alhaurin
Crtama
MALAGA
El Chorro
A357
A7
E15
E902
A
4
5
A
3
5
9
A
9
2
A384
A
3
6
7
A
3
5
7
A
3
4
3
A
3
4
3
A366
Antequera
Teba
Campillos
5 km, turn right. Continue to the next T-junction; hold right again and soon you will
pass the bar where you take right if you are heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass
the bar and continue. The landscape here is different from El Chorro; you have a
big lake on your left. After a couple of kilometres Desplomlandia turns up on your
right hand just under a mast.
To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-junction
you take left in the direction of Campillos and Teba. Follow signposts in the direction
of Teba. Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a bridge, on the other side
of the road you will see a farm. Park, cross the road and walk down to the riverbed
where you find the crag. The easy way to get to the cave is to walk back over the
bridge from the car park and then turn right, you will find a hole where you can
abseil down to the bottom of the cave.
Alora
El Chorro
Valle de
Abdalajis
Ardales
Carratraca
Desplomlandia
Campillos
Gorge
El Chorro
How to find the crags:
Drive from the airport in the direction of Malaga, turn onto highroad A357 and
follow this road for about 30 km, then turn right in the direction of Alora on road
A343. After 9 kilometres, take road 7077 and continue 4,5 kilometres to reach
Alora. In Alora you find the closest super market, even if you can get some food
in the area of El Chorro it will cost you +25%.
From Alora, follow signpost for El Chorro (Desfiladero de los Gaitanes, Garganta
dei Chorro). Just before an artificial lake, turn left, cross the river and drive up to
the small village El Chorro. In the village you will find two huts, a bar and a railway
station (You can also take the train from Malaga to El Chorro, a car is necessary
for to reach the outlying areas.
To get to Desplomlandia: Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After
a tour in a fantastic surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about
coronn.com
Refugio
Hotel
P
P
Direction
Alra
Direction
Ardales
Lake
reservoir
P
Refugio
A area with a lot of caves.
Albercones
Amptrax Area
Poema de Roca
Placas del Olimpo
Sin Futuro
Escalera Arabe
Serena
El Corral
Bedees
Las Encantadas
Santimonia
Pasarela de
Los Venenos
Los Venenos
Juaja
Africa
Cerro Cristo
Verdonia
El Recodo
Mustapha
Acuario
Zeppelin
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
El Makinodromo
Los Bloques
El Invento
Sector Escenario
Las Baneras
Railway side
Las Baneras
Sector Brasil
Petit
Desfiladero
Sector Caliza
Direction
Teba
4x4
R
a
ilw
a
y
Direction Desplomlandia How to find the crags, and a big warning:
On each separate Topo you will find a specified access description.
Though;
In a meeting between the President of the Federation Andalusia
(FAM) and representatives of a delegation of the government
where the access to many of the crags in El Chorro was discussed
the representatives of the government announced that the transit
of pedestrians by the railroad is prohibited. It also announced
that the control will be harder and the fine would be high. And
indeed the delegation has acted of forceful form to apply the
measurement, with groups of the Civil Guard by the entrance of
the tunnels (and inside), in different places and on different hours.
Posters placed in visible places informs (even in English) warns
of the sharp prohibition, and that the fine be 6.000 to 30.000
Euro.
The access to many of the crags in El Chorro is very difficult
without the railway tunnels and the concrete paths (ones built for
the King) on the other side of the gorge is slowly falling apart. In
some places you need a long jump to reach the continuing part.
Together with alredy existing access problems caust by land
owners to the crags Las Encantadas and El Corral the area of
El Chorro is now much smaller. Many crag can now only be
reached from upper gorge, and then you need a car.
coronn.com
45. Me duelen los huevos 7a
46. Zul Exprs 6a+
47. Alien Girl 5a+
48. Chica pelirroja 6a
49. Gabi 6a
50. Puitferio 6a
51. Er Vuelo de los Peluos 6a+
52. El Virgo de Vencenteta 6b+
53. Cita en Sevilla 7a+
54. El Truco del Almendruco 7a
55. Sufre Mamn 7a+
56. Malditos roedores 6c+
33. Rompe hielo 8a
34. Chicelito Querido 6b+
35. Arzapua 7b
36. Los capullos 7b
37. ? 7c
38. Ocano gris 7a
39. Project ?
40. Vuelo nocturno 7b
41. Variant 7b
42. La trompa de la virgen 7a
43. Safari 7b
44. Bruchfee 6c
How to find the crag:
Drive or walk to the bar by the railway station in El Chorro. Continue through the village and locate the small road that turns
off to the left. The road pass a camping area (on your left ). Finally you arrive to a open place where you have to park the
car if you have one. The crag is located on the other side of the railway. The tunnel to the left is the access to a lot of other
crags as Santimonia, Los Venenos but also crags
as far away as El Makinodromo. The right hand
tunnel ( which leads back to El Chorro ) is narrow
and has no pedestrain access.
See the detailed map.
P
Gravelled road from El Chorro
2. Amptrax
1 10,
11
27
24
25
23
26
35
34 33 32
31
30
29
45
48
38
49
51
55,
56
54
52
53
50
7
5
4
3
2
9 8
12,13
15
14
12
11
1. Albercones
South, South-East
5-20 m, Multi-pitch 60 m.
1. Jenny 5
2. Estrella 4+
3. ? (top rope) 4+
4.? (top rope) 4+
5. ? (top rope) 4+
6. ? 7b
7. Little brown baby 7a
8. Simn ha perdido el panadero 6c+
9. Luna 6c
10. Instinto 6a
11. Big fun 6a+
12. Montn de chatarra 6a
13. Vas pisando huevos 4
14. La corona 4+
15. Punto de salida 5
16. El pjaro loco 7a
17. Chigaga 7b
18. Vaca loca 7b+
19. Supers0nica 7b+
20. Riders in the storm 7b+
21. Emmanuelle 6c+
22. Si te vas... 7a+
6
23. La Chivito ( neads gear ) 3,4,3
24. Trepadero de Acceso 5
25. Sapillo Momificato 7b+
26. Saca la Lengua 6b+
27. Cosa de Dos 6c
28. Qutate la ropa 6b+
29. Troncomovil 6a
30. Ganmedes 6b+
31. Engrase la Bisgara Macarra 6c+
32. Estas Porido Chaval 7c+
22
21
20
19
17
17,
18
16
28
37
36
39
44
43
42
41
40
46
47
56
coronn.com
1. Pa lante amigos 6a, 6c
2. Son cuartos 4a,6b+
3. Amptrax ( neads gear ) 3,4,5,5,5,4,4
4. Las Cabras ( neads gear ) 5,4,4+
5. Coo Paco 7a
6. Sexo, drogas y flamenco 7a+
7. Alica 7b+
8. Bienvenido al circo 7b
9. Qu leche que tengo 6c,7b
10 Judea del frente popular 7b+
11. Frente popular de Judea 6a+,6c+,6b,6a
12. ? 5a,6c+
13. Mario Jacinto 6b+
14. La nias de mis ojos 6c+
15. Urriki 7a+
16. Ajonjoli 7c
17. Soador de grado 6a+,6a,6a
Next to route number 16 follows seven short routes.
Drive or walk to the bar by the railway station in El Chorro.
Continue through the village and locate the small road that turns off to
the left. The road pass a camping area (on your left ). Finally you arrive to a open place where you have
to park the car if you have one. The crag is located on the other side of the railway. Take the track that
leads up the hill over the tunnel to the right. The tunnel to the left is the access to a lot of other crags as
Santimonia, Los Venenos but also crags as far away as El Makinodromo. The right tunnel ( which leads
back to El Chorro ) is narrow and has no pedestrain access. See the detailed map.
1
4
12
13
17
Short routes
9
14
8 7 6
5
9
2. Amptrax
South, South-East
5-30 m, Multi-pitch up to 150 m.
10,
11
16
3
2
coronn.com
Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation,
continue and pass the Hotel. In the first T-
junction, hold left and follow the step road. Just
where the road starting to be strait a small
gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left,
follow that. If you walk, find a track direct up
from the Hotel and you will come to the same
road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right
turn, then it change direction towards the other
side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will
see Poema de Roca. Ignore the first little road
to the left and take the next one down to an
open place, park here. Walk towards the crag
on one of many tracks that al leads to it. See
the detailed map.
1. Caf cous bourbon 4b,6c,7a,6c+
2. ? 4b
3. Gaia 6c,7a+,6b+
4. El orejazo 7a
5. Hamunaptra 7c+
6. Honk down 7c
7. Ak sunamun 7b+
8. Habana club 7a
9. Insomnio de equipamiento 6c+
10. Seco y Pedro 6b,6c,7a+
11. ? 6a,6c+,7a+
12. Canal 6a
13. Antidoto ?
14. ? 7c
15. El padre Orillos 7b+
16. Hora Kane 7b
17. El fn de una vida 7b,6b+,7a+,
7b+,7b,6c,4c
18. Costris climbers 7c
19. Acceso verdes 6b
20. Verdes Venonas 7a+
21. Hierbes Letales 7b
22. ? 4a,6c
9 Maquina Cualquiera 7b+,6c+,7a+,
7b+,7a+,6a+
15 Poema de Roca 7a,7c+,7b,
7c,7a,6c
22 ? 6b,7a
3.1. Poema de Roca
South, South-East
19
20
9
15
22
Amptrax
1
9
8
7
6
5
3,
4
2
10
12
11
13,
14
15,
16
17
18
21
22
coronn.com
19. Acceso verdes 6b
20. Verdes Venonas 7a+
21. Hierbes Letales 7b
22. ? 4a,6c
23. Kervala 8b
24. Maquina Cualquiera 7b+,6c+,7a+,7b+,7a+,6a+
25. El complot 8a+
26. Lavia Stragniato 7b
27. Eye of the storm 7b+
28. Thunder struck 8a
29. Swimming trough a shark attack 8a
30. ? ?
31. Viejos rockeros 8a+
32. Conexin 8b
33. Poema de roca 7a,7c+,7b,7c,7a,6c
34. Alicantropica ?
35. Rima libre 8a
36. Viejo traidor 7b+
37. Miquel ?
38.Morritos Jeagger 7b
39. Rudolf 7c+
40. Viejo Amigo 7a
41. Garca Aguas 6b
42. Scorpin 5a
43. Los seores de HXF 7c+
44. ? ?
45. Mamacita 8a
46. El ave fnix ?
3.2. Poema de Roca, Cave
South, South-East
Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold
left and follow the step road. Just where the road starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of sharp
to the left, follow that. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same road.
Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards the other side of the valley.
During this trip/walk you will see Poema de Roca. Ignore the first little road to the left and take the next one
down to an open place, park here. Walk towards the crag on one of many tracks that al leads to it. See the
detailed map.
Amptrax
19
21
26
38
35
31,
32
29
28
27
47to52
42
41
40
33
56
58
57
59 60
61
22
23
24,
25
30
34
36
43
39
37
54
55
53
44
45
46
47. ? 6a
48. ? 6c
49. ? (left variant) 7a+
50. ? (right variant) 7b
51. ? ?
52. La princesa Carol 4c
53. Suizo 5+
54. Vivacporus 7b
55. El seor de las tinieblas 6b,7a
56. Solarium 7b
57. Lobo Lobez 7b
58. Deprish y con Bulla 6c
59. Super mario 6a+
60. Nanuz 6a+
61. A Pique de un Repique 6c
coronn.com
1,2
3
2
5,
6
4
8
9
10 6
7
11
13
14
16
19
1. Los Aristogatos 3c,6c
2. Los Aristogatos variant 3c,6c
3. Hijos de la Luna 4c
4. Diploducus Activo 6a+
5. Vuelo Migratorio 4c
6. Vuelo Migratorio variant 4c,3c
7. ? 7a+
8. Muon Free 7a+
9. ? 6c
10. Troglodita Feroz 6b
11. Vaya placa 4c
12. Gran Fisura 6a
13. Moloch 6a
14. La banda del Sur 8b
15. Nameless power 8c
16. Trango 8b
17. Project ?
18. Kukenan Tepoi 7b+,7c
19. Escalon de Hillary 6a+,6a+
* neads gear.
left and follow the step road. Just where the road starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of
sharp to the left, follow that. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same
road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards the other side of the
valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema de Roca. Ignore two small roads that turns off to the left and
park in a right bend where the road are near the crag ( you have just passed the valley ). Walk the steep
track up to the crag. See the detailed map.
4.1. Placas del Olimpo
West
20-30 m
6
12
18
17
15
coronn.com
left and follow the step road. Just where the road starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of
sharp to the left, follow that. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same
road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards the other side of the
valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema de Roca. Ignore two small roads that turns off to the left and
park in a right bend where the road are near the crag ( you have just passed the valley ). Walk the steep
track up to the crag. Sin Futuro is to be found below Olimpo. See the detailed map.
4.2. Sin Futuro
West
20 m
1
3
5
4
8
7
2
6
9
1. Sin futuro 7b
2. Moya boom 7c
3. Sport Billy 7b+
4. Gollum bueno 7a
5. Gollum malo 6a
6. Rabillos de pasas 6c
7. Tila para el estrs 6b
8. Cerar atack 4c
9. Bienmesabe 6b+
F a t A l b e r t 2 6 x 2 . 8
F a t A l b e r t 2 6 x 2 . 8
coronn.com
1. The final after 7b
2. Potrero chico 6b
3. Bagigi 5a
4. El beso de la flaca 5a
5. Lucky no come Pan 6a
6. Filou 6a
7. Blanca 6a
8. Escolopendra guajanii 6b+,6c
9. El amor sandunguero 6c,6b+
10. Coloboracin ciudadana 7a+
11. Alta traicin 7a+
12. Engendro caneki 6a,6a+
13. El rabe perdido 6c+
14. Lococolo 7a
15. Diedre torpedol 6c
16. Arabesque 7a
17. Sheik tu dinero 7a
5.1. Escalera Arabe
South
30 m
Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and
pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the
step road. Just where the road starting to be strait a small
gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left, follow that. If you
walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to
the same road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn,
then it change direction towards the other side of the valley.
During this trip/walk you will see Poema de Roca. Ignore two
small roads that turns off to the left and pass a right bend where
the road are near the crag ( you have just passed the valley ).
Continue a couple of hundred metres and park on a lay-bay on
your left. A pinnacle can be seen, this is by the crag. A couple
of hundreds metres hard walk up to the crag rewards with a
beautiful scenery and nice climbing. See the detailed map.
3
6 4
5
16
11
9
10
17
18
21
20
19
23
28
27
25
2
1
12
7
8
15 14
13
22
18. Birdy 7b+
19. Calvo potrn 7c
20. Coming on strong 7a+
21. Rock the kasbah 7b
22. Slo afeitar 6a
23. ? 3c
24. La Raya a la izquierda 4c
25. Antonio y Sergio 4c
26. Yo y mi resaca 4c
27. For fite 6b
28. Double edged 6c
26
24
coronn.com
Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass
the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road.
Just where the road starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road
turns of sharp to the left, follow that. If you walk, find a track direct
up from the Hotel and you will come to the same road. Follow this
road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards
the other side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema
de Roca. Ignore two small roads that turns off to the left and pass
a right bend where the road are near the crag ( you have just passed
the valley ). Continue a couple of hundred metres and park on a
lay-bay on your left. A pinnacle can be seen, this is by the crag. A
couple of hundreds metres hard walk up to the crag rewards with
a beautiful scenery and nice climbing. See the detailed map.
27. For fite 6b
28. Double edged 6c
29. Pecho lobo 6a+
30. Pecho lata 7a
31. Una Ilora siempre 6c
32. El Navigator 6c,6a,6c,3c,7a
33. Los gemelos 6c
34. La sonrisa vertical 6c
35. Longarone 6b+
36. La chillona 3a,6a,6a
37. O sole mio 5a
38. Los timbales 4c
39. El artista 3a
40. Dos tetas tiran 6b+
41. Ms que una carretas 6a
42. Highway to Africa 5a,6b
43. Mali en Suzuki 6a+, 6c
44. ? 6b
45. Kiwi 4a
46. La gaita 3c
5.2. Escalera Arabe
South
30 m
35
32
33
31
30
29
34
21
20
42
41
40
39
38
37 36
45
44
43
46
Further up in the valley you will find
another small crag, Serena, with 8 routes,
from left to the right;
1. Mar de nubes 6b
2. ? 6a
3. ? 6a
4. ? 6a+
5. ? 6c+
6. ? 7a+
7. Project ?
8. La trifulca 6a
coronn.com
Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the
Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road. After a couple
of sharp bends the road becomes "strait". After about 200 meters you will
find a closed bar on your right. Park there and walk up to the crag. If you
walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same
road.
These crags, Las Encantades, El corral and Bedees, superb crags, is
unfortunately sometimes closed, so you better ask some locals of the
situation before you climb. You must use a 60 meters rope for safe lower-
off. If you stay at Finca la Campana, walk up between the refugio and the
house to the crag. See the detailed map.
1
8
7
4
6
5
3
2
14
13
12 11
10
9
18
17
16
15
21
20
19
1. Bolondro 6a+
2. Nobro Propio 6a
3. Bohem Destrell 6a+
4. Poum Poum Ram Ram 6a
5. Para Que Disfrute la Canalla 6b
6. Crisis de Intentidad 6a+
7. Atenea 4
8. Geisha 6a
9. Program Genocida 6c
10. Maon Tropo 7b
11. Las Mulas Comen Muchas Cuerdas 8a+
12. Un Lait Fraiche pour Monsieur 7b
13. Generacin Lmite 7b+ 23. Espoloa Nombrada 7a+
14. Mam Endika 8a+ 24. Un Poco Vicioso 7a+
15. Bueno, Bonito y Barato 6c+ 25. Mezcia Explosiva 8a
16. Chorro Mundo 7a+ 26. Kit Grimpe 7b+
17. La ley del Cateto 6c+ 27. Gros Rouge 7b
18. Mataillos Lugareos 6c 28. Pero quin tiene la culpa 7a
19. Artemisa 5+ 29. Sara 7a+
20. Tipo Indio 7b+ 30. Bailando con oses 7b
21. No me Miras Mal 8a 31. Dura Vida la de un Frekee 6c+
22. No Puedo Controlarme 6c+ 32. Fiebra de Sur 7a
22
27
26
31,
32
30
29
28
23
24
25
32
6. Las Encantadas
South
30 m
?
coronn.com
1. Arnold 7a+
2. El Corral 5+
3. Mano Incorrecto 6c
4. La Cantante calve 7c
5. Super mano 7b+
6. Los Muyayos 6c+
7. Doble cero 7a
8. Lengua de Fuego 7a+
9. Avecrem a mano 6b
10. Ceregumils kid 7b
11. Pata Negra 8a
12. Monodedo de mono 8b
13. Un da de Playa 7c+
14. Capitian Carverncola 7c+
15. Resbaizimo 7b
16. Ritz 6a+
17. Tumbado 6c+
18. El Jouen Roman 6b
19. La Chata Rosa 7b
Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation,
continue and pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold
left and follow the step road. After a couple of sharp
bends the road becomes "strait". After about 200 meters
you will find a closed bar on your right. Park there and
walk up to the crag. If you walk, find a track direct up
from the Hotel and you will come to the same road.
These crags, Las Encantades, El corral and Bedees,
superb crags, is unfortunately sometimes closed, so
you better ask some locals of the situation before you
climb. You must use a 60 meters rope for safe lower-
off.
If you stay at Finca la Campana, walk up between the
refugio and the house to the crag. See the detailed map.
7 and 8. Bedees, El Corral
South, South-East
30 m
1
3
2
8
7
6
5 4
13,
14
12
11
10
9
13
15
16
19
18
17
Bedees (Not on TOPO)
1. Preparete en los Bodgegas 6c
2. Bedees 6b+
3. Einfach zu Einfach 6b
coronn.com
From El Chorro, drive or walk on the road over
the bridge by the dam. Turn right and continue
about 300 meters and Calzia is located just by
the road on your left. See the detailed map.
1. Caliza 6b+
2. Pareca ms 6a+
3. Arranpicare con Adn 6b
4. La Abujeritos 6a
5. No ms t 6a
6. Harte un t 5a
7. Santi ana 4a
8. Medio Dia 6a
9. Juantanamera 6b+
10. Diurana 6a+
11. Nocturna 6a+
12. ? ?
13. ? ?
14. ? ?
15. ? 6b
16. Guacamayo 7c+
17. ? 6c+
18. ? 7c
19. Diedro guanamino 6b
Route number 11 and 19 neads gear.
9. Caliza
North
15 m
1
7
6
5
4 3 2
12 11
9
8 10
13 14 15
19
18 17
16
High tech DMM manufactured quick draw as follows; hot forged, lightweight
quick draw, 99 gram full strength, 24/8/8, anodized 7075 T6 Alloy, iso9001,
3sigma, CE marked, gate opening: 28 mm,supplied with a 12 mm dynema
sling, black&white, 10 cm alloy coloured biners, titan coloured bent gate,
anodized, shrouded nose helps guard against accidental gate opening.
coronn.com
1. Diedro de Hercules 6b+,6b
2. Luz Verde 7b
3.La Cupla la Tiene el Bar de Isabel 7a
4. Fruto prohibito 8b
5. Valla plan 6c+
6. Ace Ventura 8a+
7. El ultimo rayo del sol 7a+
8. Aixamatinae 7c+
9. Jaque el Rey 7c+
10. Les Cutres 6b+
11. Pedorro y Macaco 7c+
12. Demcratas Cristianos 7a+
13. No seas pesada nena 6c+
14. Camino shuffle 7b 19. Victima de la Evidence 6a
15. El techito del pirata 6a,5,5+,5+,5+ 20. Empotrador Atmico 5+
16. La Ampola 5,6a,6a,6a,5+ 21. Zapatilla Jebe 7a
17. Octopus dey 6c,6a,6c 22. Excedente de cupo 6a,6a+,6b,5
18. Avin Rockero 5+,6a,6a 23. Venecia celeste 5+,5+,5+,4
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ),
walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train!
) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it is a fast way
to the other areas and when you aint in the tunnels the
scenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway (
Camino del Ray ) is a amazing concrete path where you
sometimes could need a rope for safe access. See the
detailed map.
Walkway to
Santimonia
1
2
4
5
3
8 9 10 11 12 13 14
15
19
23
22
20
16
15
17
18
17
21
10. Los Venenos, Pasarela de Los Venenos
South, South-East
Warning, access by the
railway tunnel is
prohibited! click to read more
6
7
coronn.com
To Pasarela de
Los venenos
To Africa
1
2
3
4
5,6
6
7
8
9 10
11
3
12
13
14
1 Ventana en el Tropico 7a+
2 Camino sin Ander 4,6a,6a+,4
3 Sendero Luminoso 5+/a2,6a,
3,6b,6c+,5,5
4 Polva de Angel 8b+
5 Hartelo 7b
6 Sangre Latina 6c
7 La Tregua del pedal 7c+
8 Santimonia 6c+,6a,6b
9 Desos de Domino 7a+
10 Jabega 7b+
11 Moco de Hierro 6c
12 Lobo de Mar 7a+
13 Er-Mouriadine 6c
14 Chupa la gamba 6b,6b
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels
(look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it is a fast way to the other areas and
when you aint in the tunnels the scenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino
del Ray ) is a amazing concrete path where you sometimes could need a rope for safe access.
Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take left and follow the concrete walkway around the corner.
Just before the Pipe bridge there is a big gap in the walkway so take care. See the detailed map.
11. Santimonia
South
60 m.
railway tunnel is
coronn.com
From El Chorro. Drive or walk down the "main" road, pass the bridge over the dam and
take right. You will pass Sector Caliza and a bar, both on your left. Continue until the
road turns left and you are about to miss the view over the lake. You will find a car park
on the right side of the road. Walk back and down to the water ( often just sand and
stone ). Find some dry way to cross over to the crag. This crag ain't really worth visiting.
See the detailed map
1
3
4
2
5
7
6
8
1. Heavy gravity 6a+
2. Bring your friends 6c+
3. Pos Comeme el Cipote Maricona 6c+
4. I'm still thinking 6c+,7a
5. Teta, Coo, Culo 6c+,8a,5+
6. Aparacamiento Indebido 5+,6a,6b,6c
7. Rayito de Luna 4,5+,6a,6a,6a,6b+
8. Thaillelandia 7c
Route number 1,2,3,6 and 7 neads gear.
12. Cerro Cristo
South, South-East
30 m, Multi-pitch up to 160 m.
coronn.com
1
2,3
5,6
4
2
3
5
4
3
3
Tunnel
from Juaja.
1. Material Belico 4,5,5,6a
2. Africa 6a+,6b+,5,6b
3. La bella y la bestia 6a+,7a+,7a,7a
4. Chiripitiglauticos 5+,6a,5+,6b+
5. La Dame del viento 6b+,6b,6c,6c+
6. Cuando se lo diga a mis amigos 6b+,6b,6c+,6b+
All routes neads gear for descent, rote number 3 and 5
are fully boulted.
From the parking at Albercones ( see
crag number 1 ), walk by the railway
through the tunnels (look out for train!
) to this area. The track ain't pleasant
but it is a fast way to the other areas
and when you aint in the tunnels the
scenery sometimes are extraordinarily.
The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a
amazing concrete path where you
sometimes could need a rope for safe
access.
Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take
left and follow the concrete walkway
around the corner. Just before the Pipe
bridge there is a big gap in the walkway
so take care.
Cross the bridge and on your left is
Africa.
Approach by crawling along a tunnel
that is marked on the TOPO for Sector
Juaja. Abseil 52 meter to the ledge over
the water and traverse leftwards.
Use the same tunnel to get back.
13. Africa
North, North-East
Multi-pitch up to 150 m.
Warning, access
by the railway
tunnel is
prohibited!
click to read more
Do not touch
the bit when
running the
engine
coronn.com
Access to
Africa
To
El Recodo
1
2
4
3
5
6
8,9
10
7
9
11
1. Enimigo Pblico 7b
2. Juaja 7a+
3. E por Doquier 8a+
4. Granainos '85 6b
5. Atltica y Llorica 7a+
6. ? 7c
7. Page make 7b+
8. Cangreo 8c
9. Monsters forever 8b
10. Verbene de Lapiz 7c
11. Una Espaola nunca mea sola 7b
Route number 4 neads gear.
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for
train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it is a fast way to the other areas and when you aint in the
tunnels the scenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a amazing concrete
path where you sometimes could need a rope for safe access.
Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take left and follow the concrete walkway around the corner. Just before
the Pipe bridge there is a big gap in the walkway so take care. Cross the bridge and you will find these crag.
The tunnel is the access to Africa. See the detailed map
14. Juaja
North-West
25 m.
railway tunnel is
coronn.com
See "How to find the crag" for route 1,2 and 3.
1. Verdonia (access to 2to4) 4c,4c
2. Moloko plus 6c+
3. Enano Pagano 6c+
4. Harte drogadisto 5a
5. Dixci 6c+
6. Pixci 6b+
7. La Canastera 7b+
8. Tipo Sueca 6c+
9. Calgula 6c,7b+
10. El Campista 7b+
11. Musas Inquientantes 8a
12. Iriquieza 7b+,7c+
13. Hari-Kiri 8c+
14. Cherokee ?
15. Bon voyage 6c,6b+
16. Apache 6b,7a+
17. Rasta de posta 6b+
18. Come Unas 6a+
19. Los Capitalistas 7c+
20. Bob Marley 7b+
21. Rovicunda 6b
22. Ale bop 6a+
23. Todos pretenden saber 6c
24. Los Gozas y las Sombras 6c+,7a
25. King Kong 6b+
26. Indio Jumeli 6c
27. Recodo 6a+
28. Six Vicious 6b+
29. Tumisimo 7b+
30. Sietebe del Plumero 7a+
31. Miss Dedos 6c+
32. Cachito 6c
33. Nachito 6b
34. Lluvias Otoales 4c
35. Maestro Golpeador 6b
5
6 7
8
9
10
11
12
13
15
18
19
21 20
17
23
30
29
28
27
26 25
24
31
34
35
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train!
) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it is a fast way to the other areas and when you aint in the tunnels
the scenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a amazing concrete path where
you sometimes could need a rope for safe access.
Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take left and follow the concrete walkway around the corner. Just before the
Pipe bridge there is a big gap in the walkway so take care.
Cross the bridge and follow the walkway, pass Juaja, in to a cleft and continue, behind the next corner you will
find most of the routes of this sector. Just before you pass the corner a track up to the left leads you to the first
tree routes, all are graded 6c+. See the detailed map
15. El Recodo
North
30 m.
railway tunnel is
14
16
22
32
33
coronn.com
From the parking at Albercones
( see crag number 1 ), walk by
the railway through the tunnels
(look out for train! ) to this area.
The track ain't pleasant but it's
a fast way to the other areas.
Walk through several tunnels
and pass sector Los Venenos,
the tunnel open up and you will
be in a narrow cleft with a
extrordinary scenery, continue
and the next time you will see
the sky it's time to abseil down
from the railway bridge. Go left
if you want to climb route number
12 and 13, head right if you want
to climb any of the other ones.
Acuario
Mustapha
1
5 4
3
2
7
10
9
8
14
13
15
1. Zeppelin 4,6a+,5,6c,6c+,
5,6b+,3,6b,4
2. Espoln Masay 3,5+,5+,5,5+
6b+,3,6b,4
3. ? 8c
4. Shaka Zulu 8b
5. Perspectiva Neieski 8b+
6. Gresca gitana 8a+
7. Lactarius Delciosus 6b+
8. La Pea se Despea 6c+
9. Acuario 6a+
10. Papalillo Pafuena 6a
11. Doa Patrcia ?
12. ? ?
13. Mustafa 6c+,7c+,5+
14. Estrella de Sur 6c+,7a
15. Diedre de Los Vencejos a1
16. Reino Fungi 7b+
17. Sangre aborigen 8a+
18. El secadero 8c
19. Los Tres Techos a2
20. Ron plido 8c
21. Alas de mosca ?
22. ? (no TOPO) 6b+
23. Bahia Cochino (no TOPO) 7a+
Route number 1,2,9,10,15 and 19
neads gear.
22 and 23. The first
one is 22.
16. Mustapha
South
60 m.
17. Zeppelin
South
10 m, Multi-pitch 300 m.
18. Acuario
East
25 m.
Warning,
access by
the railway
tunnel is
prohibited!
click to read more
6
12
11
17
21
19
20
18
coronn.com
1
10
9
8
7
3
12
11
13
14
18
15
16
17
21 20
19 25
24
23
26
28
27
30 31
29
1. Rebuznos de Amor 7b+
2. Jakima 6c
3. Diedro y Quique 3,3+
4. Ordinada Salvaje 4c
5. Mama quiero ser Torero 6a
6. San Satanas 4c
7. San Gabriel 4c,4c
8. La Hora del Maquis 4c
9. La Placa Morrocoduda 6a
10. Berrinche de Chinche 6b
11. El Yerno de Abraham 6a
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look
out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other areas. Walk through
several tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleft
with a extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin area. After the next tunnel you will find
these crag on both sides of the entrance to the next tunnel. See the detailed map
19.1. Los Cotos
Sector Bajas and Medios
South-East
35 m.
railway tunnel is
2
6
5
4
12. Les Muelles de Guite 6a+,7a+
13. 4 Mejilliones 20 duros 6c+
14. Rafael Anyaya 4c+
15. Camella cojo 5a
16. Fisuroterapia 4c
17. Fisura de los Santos 5a
18. Fisura de Hambre 3c
19. Bitchitos on the wailers 4a
20. El Monstruo de las Galletas 4c+
21. Mordiscos de Amor 4c
22. ? 6a+
22
23. Alucinosis 6a
24. Cursillos 4a
25. Number one 3c
26. Bruja Intrepida 4c
27. Galleta 3c
28. Super Galleta 5a
29. la Gabi 6b+
30. Los Mandriles no comen Galletas 6a+
31. La Madriles 7a
Routes written in Italics neads gear.
coronn.com
32
39
38
37
36
35
34
33
46
45
44
42 40,
41
41
48,
49
51
53
52
47
54
58
57
55
59
58
61
62,
63
60
63
64
65,
66
70
68
67
65
32. Empotrador Empotrador 4a,4a 44. Cafe Bonk 7a+
33. Montgroni free 6a+ 45. Penetracin Analgssica 6c
34. Cebolla Oscilante 5a 46 Si te Caes pega una voz 6c
35. Cebolla p la olla 4c 47. Amarilla 4c,5a
36. Genesis 6a+ 48. El ventorro 6a+
37 El Arbolo 6a+
38. Bruno in the Brunin 6a+
39. Ley de la Selva 6b
40. Embolia Cerebral 5a
41. The policeman stole my Walkman 6b
42. Girilandia 7a
43. La diagonal de Almera 6a+
61. Chulo de Madriza 7a
62. El Piqui 6b+
63. Petamorfosis 7a+
64. The butter finger 8a
65. Mister proper 5a,4a
66. El Viajero Amable 6b+
67. Adeli 6b+
55. Profanes y Blasfemos 6b+ 68. Electro Volt 6b+
56. El techo de marras A1 69. Poema vertical 7b+
57. Pisto jilguero 6c+ 70. Exodo 6a+
49. La Blanca 6b 58. El Dinamitate te Espera 6c
50. Fisura de los santos 6c 59. Que te den por culo 6a+
51. Guerrero del Abismo 6c+ 60. Yu Yu 6c
52. Exceso de Equipaje 6b+
53. Chungo Superior 5a,6a
54. Quasimodo 7a+
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag
number 1 ), walk by the railway through
the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this
area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast
way to the other areas. Walk through
several tunnels and pass sector Los
Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will
be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary
scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin
area. After the next tunnel you will find
this crag on your right.
19.2. Los Cotos
Sector Cotos Altos
South-East
45 m.
Warning, access
by the railway
tunnel is
prohibited!
click to read more
43
47
50
56
69
coronn.com
Walk down
3
7,
8
5,
6
4
4
5
7
8
6
12
11
10
13
14
17
15,
16
20
1. El gordo ya no come quarro 5a
2. Pedro El Grande 6a
3. Al Chorro con un porro 6b
4. Alerta Roja 6c
5. Sueo de Venus 6a+
6. Sueo de Venus variant 6b
7. Pilier Dorada 6c
8. Generacin Espontanea 6c
9. Revuelta en el Frenoptico 6a,6c+
10. Habitos de un
Perturbado Irremerdiable 6c
11. Las prefiero tontas 6c
12. Gmes Moya 6a+,6c+
13. Obsesin permanente 6b+,6c
14. La araa Mecnica 6b+
15. Paco Eugene 3c,4c,3a,4c,6a
16. Nirvana 3c,4c,6b+
17. Rono y Extraploma 6c
18. Urbi et orbe 7a
19. Los Cocodrilos 7a+
20. El Engendo 6a+
Route number 12,15 and 16 neads gear.
From the parking at Albercones
( see crag number 1 ), walk by
the railway through the tunnels
(look out for train! ) to this area.
The track ain't pleasant but it's a
fast way to the other areas. Walk
through several tunnels and pass
sector Los Venenos, the tunnel
open up and you will be in a
narrow cleft with a extrordinary
scenery, continue and pass the
Zeppelin area. Continue and
pass the area of Los Cotos and
after the next tunnel you will
arrive to a beautiful valley with a
perfect spot for wild ( forbidden
) camping by the river. The local
police often visit this place to see
that no one is camping here (
though many take down the tents
and put them up again after a
couple of hours). Walk down
towards this place and you will
find El Polvorin.
20. El Polvorin
South
60 m.
Warning,
access by the
railway tunnel
is prohibited!
click to read more
9
2
1
19
18
coronn.com
1
6
5 4
3
2
9
8
7
10
20 19
15
14
13
12
11
1. Fresquito Fresquito 6c 11. Sabrino Royal 6b+
2. Me empino con un Chumino 6a 12. Pantominas 6b+
3. Discordia 6b 13. Esclavo del grado 6c+
4. Saumerio 7b+ 14. Lo Tomas o lo Dejos 7b
5. Alucina por la Esquina 7b+ 15. Champamania 6c+
6. Diedro Veneno 6a 16. La Via Shin 6b
7. La leche que mamaste 7b+ 17. Peripecias de Invalido 6c
8. Ahora que te Pillo sola 7a+ 18. Nacida para la critica 6c+
9. Hay pan 6b 19. Hemoglobina 6b
10. Al talego 6b+ 20. Juego duro 6c
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ),
walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train!
) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast way
to the other areas. Walk through several tunnels and pass
sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be
in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and
pass the Zeppelin area. Continue and pass the area of
Los Cotos and after the next tunnel you will arrive to a
beautiful valley with a perfect spot for wild ( forbidden )
camping by the river. The local police often visit this place
to see that no one is camping here ( though many take
down the tents and put them up again after a couple of
hours). Take right and leave the railway towards the crag
up to your left on one of many tracks that all leads to the
crag. See the detailed map
21. El Invento
South-East
20 m.
railway tunnel is
18
17
16
coronn.com
1
4
3
2
1. Comicos y Modistas 6b+
2. Em 7a+
3. Straw Donkey 7b
4. La Tete de Mari 8b
5. Hay un Guarillo en la Tapia 6a
6. Salto del gato 6b
7. Salto del gato II 6b+
8. ? ?
9. ? 7c
10. El segundo pigue 7c+
11. La poltica del piquillo ?
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway
through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't
pleasant but it's a fast way to the other areas. Walk through several
tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will
be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the
Zeppelin area. Continue and pass the area of Los Cotos and after the
next tunnel you will arrive to a beautiful valley with a perfect spot for wild
( forbidden ) camping by the river. The local police often visit this place
to see that no one is camping here ( though many take down the tents
and put them up again after a couple of hours). Take right and leave the
railway towards the crag up to your left on one of many tracks that all
leads to the crag. The first boulted area is El Invento, the second is this
crag. See the detailed map
22. Los Bloques and Los Tigres
South-East
15 m.
railway tunnel is
7
6
5
9
8
10
15 14
13
12
11
20
19
17,
18
16
21
12. Guiris go home 7a
13. El paso del Serengueti 8a
14. La comunidad afro 7b+
15. Prisa mata 7c+
16. Por puro vicio 7c
17. El salto del tigre 8a
18. Life with never end 7c
19. Los siete Larrys 7b
20. ? ?
21. Tatuaje ?
coronn.com
A judge beautiful overhang
1
7
5
3
2
8
9
38
36
39
45
44
42
41
40
46
43
1. Transpoting 7b+
2. Samarkanda 8b+
3. El orculo 8b
4. Randy 8b
5. Que trabaje Rita 8c+
6. Variant 8c
7. Kuala Lumpur ?
8. Al Ha Kan 8c+
9. Al Ha Kan 9a
10. Lourdes 8a
11. La ms seora de todas las putas ?
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels
(look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other areas.
Walk through several tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will
be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin area. Continue
and pass the area of Los Cotos and after the next tunnel you will arrive to a beautiful valley
with a perfect spot for wild ( forbidden ) camping by the river. The local police often visit this
place to see that no one is camping here ( though many take down the tents and put them up
again after a couple of hours). Take right and leave the railway towards the crag up to your
left on one of many tracks that all leads to the crag. El Makinodromo is a very beautiful crag
with the well knowed route Lourdes (8a). It's a long walk to come here, but the climbing and
the scenery tends to make this crag to one of the best memories for a cold day at work back
home. See the detailed map
23. El Makinodromo
South-East
35 m.
railway tunnel is prohibited!
click to read more
6
4
10
1112,
13
15
14
16
18
17 19
20,
21
22
21
24
23
26
25
27
28
29
30
31
32,
33
33
34
35
37
50
49
48
47
12. Conexin Lourdes 8a+
13. La ms puta de todas las seoras 8a+
14. Cous-cous 8c
15. Ceskosslovensko Dopichi 8c
16. Melanpina 8a
17. Smashing Pumpkins 8a
18. Variant of 17 8a+
19. Atlas Shrieked 7c+,7c
20. Pepe el boludo 8a
21. Dentellada 8a+
22. Porrot 7c+
23. Muten Roy 8a
24. Vete al Infierno 7b
25. Ha kuna Mattata 7a+
26. Los Lei Lafen 7b
26a. Estoy mortimer 7a+
27. Salida de emergencia 6c,7b+
28. Rhytem metod 7a+
29. Mystic Rhythem 6b+
30. ? ?
31. La panda zampabollos 7a+
32. La columba de Gollum 7b
33. Life is sweet 6c
34. Ossana en el cielo 7b+
35. Kolocotron 7a+
36. Anatema 7b
37. No te enfades chaval 7c
38. Heat change 7a
a
39. Canto pecato 7a+
40. One Bastiamba 7b
41. Post Festum 7b
42. Mega flash 7a+
43. Grimal el Curtido 7a
44. Punk Street 7a
45. Putanaki 7b+
46. Reep 7b
47. ? 7c+
48. El polln de Merch 7a+
49. La aprieta 8a
50. Efecto ajo 7c
coronn.com
The sector "Upper Gorge" could be reached from El Chorro, by foot, through the
tunnels, but the walk takes approximately 1,5 hour. But El Chorro is a place where
you easy get in contact with other climbers, and if you don't have a car then try
to get lift.
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and take right. After a tour in a fantastic
surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right.
Continue until just before a bar, a narrow road turns to the right, follow that. Park
where you are not alowed to drive further and walk down to Upper Gorge and the
concrete walkway. See the detailed map
1. Ojos Saltones 7b
2. Hercles Poirot 8b
3. Tartar 7a
4. Vendaval de antigedades ?,6b+,8a,
7a,7a+
5. Aspromnix 5a
6. l cena tarta de la abuela 6c
7. Color dominante 7b
8. Moro sioputa 7a
9. El imperio de los sentidos 6c
10. Pinchito moruno 6c
11. Salvaje violador 6b
12. ? 6a
13. Al Verdn con un meln 6a+
14. Perrito caliente 6b
15. Sin columpiarse 7a+
16. Perro violador 6b
17. Algo sobre la virgen 6b
18. Con tangas y a lo loco 6c+
19. A Golpe de mazo 7b+
20. Replicanto y con el Mazo dando 7c+
21. Los mitos tambin lloran 7b
22. Walkway Waltz 6b+
23. ? 6c+
24. Hijo puta el que quite La Chapa 3c
25. Menbrillo 4c
26. Edy el valiente 6a+
27. Palomo cojo 6b
28. ? 6a
29. ? 6c
30. Moco 6b
31. El ultimo Blues 6c
32. Saga Corniz 6c+
33. Mola ms que America 6a+
34. Tubular bells 6c+
24.1. Las Baneras
Walkway side
North
30 m.
1 2
5
4
3
6 7
8
9
10
11
12 13
15
14
21
20
19
18
17
16
22
25
24 23
26
27
32
31
30 29
28
34
33
coronn.com
12. la Topo buana 6b+,6b
13. Vientos modernos 6c,6c+
14. Techo del popeye 7c,6c
15. Brutus 7b,6c+
16. Olivia 7b,?
17. Cocoliso 7b,?
The sector "Upper Gorge" could be reached from El Chorro, by foot, through the tunnels, but
the walk takes approximately 1,5 hour. But El Chorro is a place where you easy get in contact
with other climbers, and if you don't have a car then try to get lift.
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and take right. After a tour in a fantastic surrealistic
landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right. Continue until just before
a bar, a narrow road turns to the right, follow that. Park where you are not alowed to drive
further and walk down to Upper Gorge and the concrete walkway. See the detailed map
1. La Yacuzi 6b+
2. Les Estrellas nom Encaloman
por los veredas 6a+
3. Pate de Peil 6c+
4. Era virgen y tena holgura 7a+
5. Lavadero Flipin 6c
6. Especie de nada 7b
7. T.V. Plus 6c+
8. La tortas del grado 6a,7a+
9. Tema libre 7c+
10. Surimi 7a
11. Batracio 7a
24.2. Las Baneras
South and North
The railway side
1
2
12
4
3
5
6
7
8
9
13
14
18
15
16
17
23 22
11
10
21
20 19
18. ? 7a+
19. Project ?
20. ? 7c
21. Giganta verde 7a+,A0,7b+,8a,7b
22. Onda vital 8c
23. No acabada 8c+
coronn.com
1. Escenario de bufones 6a+,7a
2. Avecrem a mano 5,5,6a+
3. Instinto cabrero 7b+
4. Instinto asesino 7a+
5. ISouvenir del Brasil 6a
6. Caipiria 5a
7. Carallo 4c
8. Pachanga 7b
9. Maverick 7a
10. ? 6c+
The sector "Upper Gorge" could be reached from El Chorro, by foot,
through the tunnels, but the walk takes approximately 1,5 hour. But
El Chorro is a place where you easy get in contact with other climbers,
and if you don't have a car then try to get lift.
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and take right. After a tour in a
fantastic surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after
about 5 km, turn right. Continue until just before a bar, a narrow road
turns to the right, follow that. Park where you are not alowed to drive
further and walk down to Upper Gorge and the concrete walkway.
25 and 26. Escenario, Brasil
South and North
7
6
5
8 9
10
4
3
1
2
coronn.com
Abseil
20 m.
1
2
3
7
6
5
4
10 9 8
Abseil
30 m.
15
11
12 14
13
18
17
16
To El Invento
The railway side.
1. Robert Curtino 7a
2. ? ?
3. ? ?
4. El ltimo mangante 6b
5. Empacho de gobacho 7a+
6. T Vegas 7c
7. Tito Camarn 6a+
8. Les batiste 6c
9. Les papanates 7b
10. Torturas Ninjas 5
11. Ruta de la Lycra 6c
12. La higuerola 7b
13. Escuela sin grado 7c+
14. paseo por el Limbo 7a
15. Latex lubricated 6c+
16. ? ?
17. Charro del Charro 6c,6c+
18. Cantos Nibelungos 7b
The sector "Upper Gorge" could be reached from El Chorro, by
foot, through the tunnels, but the walk takes approximately 1,5
hour. But El Chorro is a place where you easy get in contact with
other climbers, and if you don't have a car then try to get lift.
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and take right. After a tour
in a fantastic surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction
after about 5 km, turn right. Continue until just before a bar, a
narrow road turns to the right, follow that. Park where you are not
alowed to drive further and walk down to Upper Gorge and the
concrete walkway. The bridge and the track that follows leads to
El Invento and back to El Chorro. See the detailed map
27. Petit Desfiladero
South and North
45 m.
coronn.com
To get to the outlying areas, Desplomlandia and Campillos Gorge, you nead a car. To get
to Desplomlandia:
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After a tour in a fantastic surrealistic
landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right. Continue to the next
T-junction, hold right again and soon you will pass the bar where you take right if you are
heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass the bar and continue. The landscape here is different
from El Chorro, you have a big lake on your left. After a couple of kilometers Desplomlandia
turns up on your right hand just under a mast.
To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-junction you take
left in the direction of Campillos and Teba. Follow signposts in the direction of Teba.
Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a bridge, on the other side you will see a farm
to the left. Park, cross the road and walk down to the riverbed where you find the crag.
See the road map
Direction
El Chorro Gravelled
road to the
lake.
Click here to
get to the crag
Poza de la Mona
Click here to
get to the crag
El cable Como
la vida misma
Click here to
get to the crag
Buena sombra
Click here to
get to the crag
Metecaa
Click here to
get to the crag
Suizo
Click here to
get to the crag
Tringulo
28. Outlying area, Desplomlandia
Click here to
get to the crag
Acebuche
coronn.com
1. Tringulo 7a+
2. Maligno catarro 6c+
3. Aljamar 7b
4. ? 7b+
5. Reina mora 7c
6. Zeus Kapotas ?
7. Mar de ortigas 8a
8. No toques a tu madre 8a+
9. Madre salvaje 7c
10. Oasis de cristal 7c
11. Conexin pelijorra 8a
12. Qu tal mea tu padre? 7b
13. Ms que money 7b+
14. De copas 7b
15. La copa 7b
1
6
4
5
7 3
11 23
22
21
18
17 15
25
24
19,
20
19
28
29
Buena sombra
El Cable. Como la Vida Misma
coronn.com
28.1. Outlying area, Desplomlandia
North-West
30 m.
14,15
14
1 10 9
8
7
6
5 4 3
2
13 12
11
Tringulo
1. Puto cable 5a
2. La flaca 6c+
3. La decepcin 7a+
4. Uretrfilo 7a
5. Akira 7b
6. Dnde estn mis amigos? 7c
7. Oleanna 7b+
8. Project ?
9. Mamabi 6c,7b
10. El ngel flamenco 7a
11. El paso 6c+
12. Aro de Santo 6c+
13. Maritobi 6a+
14.Ostras Pedrn 4c
15. Al loro con el Xato 6c+
16. Manzanilla madness 7a
17. Cheyenne 7a+
32
31 33
30
18. Mquina pestosa 7b+
19. Ankana wanamino 8a+
20. Al andals 6c
21. Sandokan 7c
22. Si te gusta el pique, pique 6b+
23. Capitn sardina 6c
24. Calidad alemana 6b
25. El emigrante 7a+
26. El chupacabras 7a+
27. Zulo master 7a+
28. Chica 5+
29. ? 7b+
30. Lirn careto 7a,7c
31. Escombro 5+
32. Autn 5+
33. Los Zauden 7a
?
2
9
10
8
14
13
12
16
26
27
To
Acebuche
North-West
30 m.
coronn.com
Acebuche
1
10
9
8,
9
7 6
5
4
3
2
13
12,
13
11 22 21
20
19
18 17 16 15 14
28 27 26
25
24
23
34
33
32
31
30 29
To the left you find 7 routes, from left;
1. El acebuche 7c
2. El anillo de los nibelungos 7a+
3. Papi xulo 7a
4. Cax 7b
5. Pilla ratas 6c+
6. Rantanpln 6a+
7. Duplo 6a+
1. Dolomiti 7a+
2. Fran sin natra 7b
3. Lirn careto 7a,7c
4. Escombros 5a
5. Autn 5a
6. Champion Leo ?
7. Los Zauden 7a,8a
8. Derribamitos 8a
9. A ella le gusta la gasolina 8a
10. La golosa 7c
11. El montepo de cretinos ?
12. Escalador parsito ?
13. Las Galias ?
14. El comit de los sabios ?
15. Judas 7b
16. El ruin de Roma 7c
17. Viejos y puretas 7a+
18. Cosas Caseras 7a+
19. Yogur de coco 6c
20. Comando Escandilla 6c+
21. Hilando fino 7a+
22. Buena sombra 6b+
23. Alobeitor 6b
24. Sin mantenimiento 6a
25. Provinciano marrano 6b+
26. Debora cuerpos 6a+
27. Escacharr 6b
28. Menasatru 6a+
29. Vaya pieza 6b+
30. Efecto secundario 6b
31. El arco 6b
32. Las cosillas 6c+
33. Las cosas de Mike 6b
34. La pyme 6b
To the right of the main crag you will
find a handfull of routes, 6a to 7b.
Metacaa
1. Las hermanas izuquierdo 7c
2. El carnicero de Milwaukee 8a
3. El asegurador de Huelva 7c+
4. Indurin A2
5. Viuda negra 6c
6. El Fhrer 7b
7. O.J. Simpson 6c+
8. Alex Zule A2/6a
8. La Santa Inquisicin ?
9. Doctor Lecter ?
10. El Angles ?
11. Los Borgian ?
12. Atrpalo 6a
13. El retorno del dinamita 7b
coronn.com
North-West
30 m.
3
2
1
4
5 6
7
8
Suizo
Suizo
1. Huevos cocidos 7a
2. ? ?
3. ? ?
4. ? ?
5. La calabaza 7c
6. Joy 7b
7. T verde 7b
8. miel de romero 7a+
1
7
6
5
4
3
2
13
11
12
14
9
10
Metacaa
8
1
7
6 5
4
2,
3
10
9
8
12
11
13
Poza de la mona
16. Abrasiva 6c
17. Malva loca 6c+
18. Fletn negro 7a+
19. Arquitectura moderna 7a
20. Bee-bee 6c+
21. Pia disfruta 7b
22. Vas de guais 7c
23. Silicona beach 7b+
24. Excremento 7a
25. Hiracundia 7c
26. Prosineski 7c+
27. Amor al arte 7b
28. Calorn 4c
29. Ambiente selecto 6b+
coronn.com
North-West
30 m.
14 15
16
19
18
17
23
22
20
21
24
26
25
27
28
29
1. Entre higos 6a
2. Laguna betiko 6b
3. Buen amigo 6a
4. Pareca tonta 6a
5. Esa bavaresa 6b
6. Flora 6a
7. Fauna 6a+
8. Cerebro de broca 6a
9. Kira la bulti 6a
10. Siempre Juli 6a+
11. Ras cubano 6a
12. Las gordas no dan resaca 6b+
13. Dhate de rollo 6b+
14. Sbete a la higuera 6a+
15. Poda higuera 6b
1 4
3
2
8
9,10,11,12
7 6
5
12
11
10
14
13
1 Yo Quierosa Papa 6b
2 Below Tijo lands 7b
3 Pegaso 6c+
4 El Mono sin nombre 6b+
5 Ya son muchas pechas 6c
6 Mujer sin nombre 6b+
7 ? 6c
8 Nostalgia de Antono 6b+
9 El grado viene despue 5
10 Elo 7b
11 ? 7a+
12 ? 7a
13 ? ?
14 Rodolfa y su cochine 6a,6a+
To get to the outlying areas, Desplomlandia and Campillos Gorge, you nead a car.
To get to Desplomlandia:
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After a tour in a fantastic
surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right.
Continue to the next T-junction, hold right again and soon you will pass the bar
where you take right if you are heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass the bar and
continue. The landscape here is different from El Chorro, you have a big lake on
your left. After a couple of kilometers Desplomlandia turns up on your right hand
just under a mast.
To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-junction
you take left in the direction of Campillos and Teba. Follow signposts in the direction
of Teba. Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a bridge, on the other side
you will see a farm to the left. Park, cross the road and walk down to the riverbed
where you find the crag. See the road map
29.1. Outlying areas, Campillos Gorge
West
40 m.
coronn.com
Big cave
on sepatate
TOPO
Entrance, abseil
1
2,3,4,5
7 6
3
2
5 4
11,12 10
9
8
13
12
15
20
19
18
17
16
25
24
23
22
21
14
1 ? 8a
2 ? 4,4
3 ? 7b
4 Amarreto de Canto 7a
5 ? ?
6 Cudain 6b+
7 Gasofa 6a+
8 ? 6b+
9 ? 6b
10 Pasta de basta 5,5
11 Introducion al tema 4
12 La Costurera 6b+
13 Gorilla 7a
14 Ritual Habitual 7a
15 House of pain ?
16 Lavialatua de mach ?
17 Nequaquam Vacuum ?
18 El Guru 7a
19 Putas fever 6b+
20 Violento express 7c
21 Karo Shi 7c
22 Arende notivo rea 7b+
23 Posey-don 7b+
24 Historia de una chica mala 8a
25 Kamikaze ?
To get to the outlying areas, Desplomlandia and Campillos Gorge, you nead a car. To get to Desplomlandia:
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After a tour in a fantastic surrealistic landscape you will come
to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right. Continue to the next T-junction, hold right again and soon you will pass
the bar where you take right if you are heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass the bar and continue. The landscape
here is different from El Chorro, you have a big lake on your left. After a couple of kilometers Desplomlandia turns
up on your right hand just under a mast.
To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-junction you take left in the direction
of Campillos and Teba. Follow signposts in the direction of Teba. Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a
bridge, on the other side you will see a farm to the left. Park, cross the road and walk down to the riverbed where
you find the crag. The easy way to get to the cave is to walk back over the bridge from the car park and then turn
right, you will find a hole to abseil down to the bottom of the cave. See the road map
29.2. Outlying areas, Campillos Gorge
East
50 m.
coronn.com
PALMA
Santa Pona
Andratx
Bunyola
Santa Maria
Alor
Inca
Santanyi
Vilafranca
Felanitx
Campos
del Puerto
Manacor
Cala d'Or
Puerto Cristo
Art
Port d'Alcdia
Pollena
4. Boquer 3. Creveta
5. Les Perxes
6. Alar
7. Fraguel
10. Can Nyic
11. Port Sller
12. Valldemossa
13. Sestrt
14. Sa Gubia
18. Calvi
21. Santanyi
22. Cala
Magraner
23. Castell de
Santueri
1. Cn Txanquet
15. Can Ortigues
16. Piug de Garrafa
9. Gorg Blau
2. El Fumat
17. Santa Pona
MALLORCA
C715
C
7
1
7
C
7
1
4
C
7
1
1
C
7
1
9
C
7
1
0
Valldemossa
C
7
1
3
Sller
C
7
1
2
Mallorca
Despite the islands reputation
as hot spot for tourists you can
still find small villages with few
tourists that offer a genuine
atmosphere with the true feel
of Spanish culture. If you are
prepared to take your time, the
small roads on the East of the
island will lead you to one of
the most beautiful rock climbing
spots in Europe.
On each Topo you will find a
detailed description for to
reach each crag.
8. Es Queixal
20. Ermita de Betlem
19. El Calo
P
P
14 km post
Beach
1. Cachi kai 5+
2. Chi craku 6b
3. Tlanqui xanqui 7c
4. Project ?
5. Fledi Ulkel 7c+
6. Project ?
7. Fa un Fumfi ?
8. Project ?
9. Xao Xoxin 7c
10. Cuki 7a
11. Teta Blik ?
12. Tlasmeditelanea ?
13. Tila pa Tlas 7b+
14. Xin Xubi 7a+
Port de Pollena
Platia de Formentor
Cap de Formentor
Drive to Port d'Pollena and continue through the village along the coast.
Continue in the direction of Cap de Formentor. You will find the crag
approximately 100 metres after a tunnel. Enjoy a meal at one of the many
restaurants in Port d'Pollena.
1.1. Cn Txanquet
South-East, East
15 m.
1
9
8
7
6
5
4 3
2
12
11
10
14
13
coronn.com
P
P
14 km post
Beach
15. Xao Xina 7b+
16. Xin Xampu 7c
17. Brut Lee 7c+
18. Xop Suey de Vaca Loa 7a+
19. Tai Xixa 7c+
20. ? 7c
21. Xin Peldon 7a
22. Patxi Aloz Cena ?
23. Xoriguer amb Ximonada ?
24. Quin Fum Fa 7b+
25. El Cacho del Chichi ms Chachi 6c
26. Mao se la tu 5+
27. Route, what route? 5+
Port de Pollena
Platia de Formentor
Cap de Formentor
Continue in the direction of Cap de Formentor. You will find the crag
approximately 100 metres after a tunnel. Enjoy a meal at one of the many
restaurants in Port d'Pollena.
1.2. Cn Txanquet
South-East, East
20 m.
19
18
17 16
15
22
21
20
23
27
26
25
24
coronn.com
P
P
13 km post
Beach
2.
1. Ziritione 6a+
2. Apendre Tort 7b
3. Duke (first pitch) 6b
3b. Duquesa (two pitches*) 7b
4. Mercury 6b+
5. Rafael Borrs 6b+
6. Na Palonia 5+
7. Colorado 5+
8. Old bolts 5+
9. Project ?
10. Popeye 7c+
11. Hostal Paraiso 7b
12. Citroen 7b
13. Free Tibet 7a
14. En Miquel est Fumat 6c
15. Ghandi 7a
16. Obelix 6c
17. Obi Wan 6a+
18. El Martell de Thor 6c
19. Vvora 6a+
* Route 3b; too step to abseil, walk down, hold right
Port de Pollena
Platia de Formentor
Cap de Formentor
Continue in the direction of Cap de Formentor. Reaching the 13 km post,
turn left and park. Cross the road and follow a small track in the direction
of the crag.
2. El Fumat
North-West
30 m. Multi-pitch 80 m.
1,
2
9
8 7 6 5 4
3
2
12
11
10
15
13
14
16 17
18
19
coronn.com
1. Gringo Star 6b+
2. Pammi-A 6b+
3. Cool Max 7a+
4. Frank Tapas 6c+
5. Much Azure about nothing 7a+
6. Azure like it 6b+
7. Northern Exposure 6c+
8. Over 30s Club 6b+
9. Thirteen Fourteen 6b+
10. Braveheart 7a
11. Lion Rampant 7a
12. Craprabo 6b+
4
1
5
3 2
7
6
Port d'Pollena
10
9 8
12
11
3.1. Creveta, Gringo Star
North-East
30 m.
coronn.com
P
3.2.
3.3.
3.1.
Mirador des
Columet
Drive to Port d'Pollena and
then continue along the road
to Cap Formentor. After 5 km
you will arrive at a sightseeing
spot, "Mirador d'es Columet".
Park at the big car park and
walk back from the parking
area on a track alongside an
old water pipe. Turn right so
that you can cross the second
of two Cols on the ridge.
Cross the Col, and turn left
following the crag to the
climbing area.
Drive to Port d'Pollena and then continue along the road to Cap
Formentor. After 5 km you will arrive at a sightseeing spot, "Mirador
d'es Columet". Park at the big car park and walk back from the
parking area on a track alongside an old water pipe. Turn right so
that you can cross the second of two Cols on the ridge.
Cross the Col, and turn left following the crag to the climbing area.
4
9,10
Port d'Pollena
1
5
3
2
11, 12
8
7
6
9
coronn.com
3.2. Creveta
North-East
30 m.
12
1. The boulder route 5+
2. Nordcap 6b+
3. Lord of the Rings 4+
4. Coordina Coordinator 4+
5. Curset 4
6. Baba 5
7. Camisasaque 5
8. Krilin 6a
9. Hyperion 5
10. Hyperion Derecho 6a+
11. Els Corderos Atacan de nuevo 6a+
12. Jerita 6b+
See 3.3.
P
3.2.
3.3.
3.1.
Port d'Pollena
17
16 15
13,
14
23
22
21
20 19 18
28
27 26
25
24
Drive to Port d'Pollena and then continue along the road to Cap
Formentor. After 5 km you will arrive at a sightseeing spot, "Mirador
d'es Columet". Park at the big car park and walk back from the
parking area on a track alongside an old water pipe. Turn right so
that you can cross the second of two Cols on the ridge.
Cross the Col, and turn left following the crag to the climbing area.
coronn.com
3.3. Creveta
North-East
30 m.
14
13. Hussein 6c
14. Terapia de Grupo 6b+
15. Ca magre, Pues 6a+
16. Ja me Pagars 6c
17. Lastralopithecus 6c
18. 150 Sipies 6a
19. Rcords de Bunyola 6a+
20.. El Sant Crist 6.a+
21. Som-hi 6a
22. Ball o'en Banyeta Verda 6b
23. Somni Bucollic 6a+
24. Glckspitz 4+
25. Estic fins u collons 6a+
26. Lechtturm 6b+
27. Just married 6b+
28. Angsthase 5+
P
3.2.
3.3.
3.1.
Mirador des
Columet
The crags are closed.
Climbing is prohibited.
May 2007
Drive to Port d'Pollena and continue passing the village along the big bypass
road in the direction of Cap Formentor. On this road you will reach a tree-lined
avenue to the right Turn left in the roundabout and park. Walk on the trackmarkt
with Cami de Cala Bquer that passes a farm and continues into the valley.
A beautiful unusual area ideal for families. Unfortunately the crag is closed for
climbing for now, bolts has on some parts been removed, check with the tourist
information in the village to get the latest information.
Direction
Pollena
P
1 ? 6c+
2 ? 6b
3 ? 3
4 ? 4+
5 ? 4+
6 Roco d'U Trampo 6c
7 ? 7b
8 ? 7b+
9 ? 6b+
10 ? 6b
4. Boquer
N 39 55.055
EO 03 04.986
All point of the compass
A couple up to 50 m.
1
2
5
4
3
12
11
10 9
8
7
6
16 13
14
15
20
19
18
17
25
24
23 22
21
26
28
27
30
29
coronn.com
Port d'Pollena
11 + 6a+
12 ? 8a
13 ? 6a
14 La Creu 5+
15 ? Neads gear 4
16 ? 8a
17 ? 6a+
18 ? 6a
19 ? 5+
20 ? 6b
21 ? 5+
22 L'Aguila Neads gear 5,4,4+
23 L'Aguila direct 5+,4,4+
24 Seconda stella a destra 7c
25 ? 6b+
26 ? 6a+
27 ? 5+
28 Bicepmania 6b+
29 ? 5
30 ? 4
Caimari
Direction
Campanet
P
M
2
1
3
Selva
P
M
-
V
2
1
3
-
1
P
M
-
V
2
1
1
-
2
Drive to Inca and then take road 710 towards "Selva" and
"Caimari". The area has three crags. Les Perxes; To get
there, park your car at the outskirts of Caimari as you are
leaving the village, then continue by foot on the road signposted
to "Col ds Barraca". After about 200 meters you will pass
a 7km post on the right. Two tracks leads to the left at that
point. Take the second one and after 200 meters the crag
will be on your left. Hairpin Wall; Continue with car out of
Caimari, park on a big car park in the first hairpin bend,
continue on a well marked footpath signpost for Santuari de
LLUC and you reach the crag after about 300 metres.
Muro the Caimari; Continue from Caimari and pass three
hairpin bends, before the fourth hairpin bend, park on a laybay,
there is on to the right of the road, one more to the left.
Continue by foot. Walk up to the forth hairpin bend, cross a
fenceusing a stile and then direct follow a small track to the
left about 100 metres to reach the crag.
1. Less purchase 6b
2. Petit Poi 6c
3. Ball de Bot 7a+
4. Empire State 8b
5. Peu deret 8b+
6. Comando Madrid 8b+
7. Odissy 8c+
8. American Express 8c
9. Master hit 8b+
10. M&Ms 8a+
11. Calgao 7b
12. Es Penjat 7a+
13. Central route 7c+
14. A Vista de Pajaro 8a+
15. Guiris go home 8c
16. Project ?
17. Motorhead 7c+
18. Unknown 8c+
19. Terrorvisin 8a
20. Toten Hosen 7c
21. Bon apetit 8a
22. Penthouse 7c
23. Penthouse right-hand ?
24. Hoodoo Gurus 7b+
25. Picados 7c+
5.1. Les Perxes, Cueva
North
25 m.
1
2
7
5,6
3
19
17
11,
12
25
24
22
20
4
8
9
18
21
23
coronn.com
10
12
5
13
14
16
15
P
P
5.2. Hairpin Wall
N 39 46.734
EO 02 53.883
East
25 m.
Drive to Inca and then take road 710 towards "Selva" and "Caimari". The area
has three crags. Les Perxes; To get there, park your car at the outskirts of
Caimari as you are leaving the village, then continue by foot on the road
signposted to "Col ds Barraca". After about 200 meters you will pass a 7km
post on the right. Two tracks leads to the left at that point. Take the second
one and after 200 meters the crag will be on your left. Hairpin Wall; Continue
with car out of Caimari, park on a big car park in the first hairpin bend, continue
on a well marked footpath signpost for Santuari de LLUC and you reach the
crag after about 300 metres.
Muro the Caimari; Continue from Caimari and pass three hairpin bends,
before the fourth hairpin bend, park on a laybay, there is on to the right of the
road, one more to the left. Continue by foot. Walk up to the forth hairpin bend,
cross a fenceusing a stile and then direct follow a small track to the left about
100 metres to reach the crag.
1
2
7
3
4
Caimari
Direction
Campanet
Hairpin bend on
road
1. Curving Groove 5
2. Central 5+
3. Right 5
4. The hard one 7a
5. The Blob 6c
6. The Blob right-hand 6b
7. The Blob indirect 5+
8. Pocket 6a+
9. Pocket Right 6a
10. Poor 6b+
coronn.com
P
M
2
1
3
Selva
P
M
-
V
2
1
3
-
1
P
M
-
V
2
1
1
-
2
P
P
5,
6
8,
9
10
6
9
Caimari
Direction
Campanet
P
M
2
1
3
Selva
P
M
-
V
2
1
3
-
1
P
M
-
V
2
1
1
-
2
5.3. Muro de Caimari
East
20 m.
Drive to Inca and then take road 710 towards "Selva" and "Caimari".
The area has three crags. Les Perxes; To get there, park your
car at the outskirts of Caimari as you are leaving the village, then
continue by foot on the road signposted to "Col ds Barraca".
After about 200 meters you will pass a 7km post on the right. Two
tracks leads to the left at that point. Take the second one and
after 200 meters the crag will be on your left. Hairpin Wall;
Continue with car out of Caimari, park on a big car park in the first
hairpin bend, continue on a well marked footpath signpost for
Santuari de LLUC and you reach the crag after about 300 metres.
Muro the Caimari; Continue from Caimari and pass three hairpin
bends, before the fourth hairpin bend, park on a laybay, there is
on to the right of the road, one more to the left. Continue by foot.
Walk up to the forth hairpin bend, cross a fenceusing a stile and
then direct follow a small track to the left about 100 metres to
reach the crag.
1 2
7
3
4
1. Nosferatu 6c
2. Paparazzi 6b+
3. Transfuga 6b+
4. Suquet 6b
5. A la Fresca 6a
6. Mantis 6a
7. Lucas 6b
8. Mescalina 6b
9. El Calvario del Enano 6c
10. Dos Bidedos y un Destino 6c+
11. Doctor Maligno 7b
12. Capitan Gotera 6c+
13. El Sonido de la Gaita 6b
14. Last route ?
coronn.com
P
P
5
8
10
9
11 12
14
13
6
Drive to Alar. As with all
villages on Mallorca this one is
congested but if you find and
follow the signposts to "Castillo
de Alar" you will find the
narrow road with many hairpins
that leads you to the village (a
couple of houses). Next to the
restaurant you will find a big car
park and the long and step walk
from here to the crag is
recommended. Please dont
use the road that leads from
the Restaurant towards the
crag, walk back and take the
track instead. It is also possible
to continue on a small rough
road that turns of to the left just
before the restaurant and which
leads to a parking spot closer
to the crag.
Extraordinarily beautiful scenery
and a amazing crag make Alar
a special place. Bring lots of
water. On the top of the crag
you will find a Chapel and a
small restaurant where you can
buy lunch, refreshments or
some chocolate. .
Information that we have from a
Spanish web site;
Castell dAlaro is an entirely private
property. Ask for prior permission to
climb on castell_alaro@hotmail.com.
It is essential that an agreed line is
taken up to the rock and that it is agreed
that the owners are not
responsible in case of an accident.
Send name, passport number and
address for all climbers. Send a
telephone number and give the dates
that you will be climbing here. Bring
your passport when you go to Alar.
6. Alar, Roadmap
coronn.com
P
M
-
2
1
1
P
M
-
2
1
0
C
a
lle
d
e
P
u
j
o
l
P
M
-
V
-
2
0
2
-
2
C
.

d
e

P
u
i
g
Alar
P
P
Restaurant
Dont use this part
of the road!
6.1.
6.2.
6.3.
1
4
3
2
7
6
10
9
8
18 19
11
16 15
14
22
21
20
1. Glue-ins 7b+
2. ? 7b
3. ? 7a
4. ? 6c
5. ? 6a
6. Still a project? 7b
7. Esteban 7b+
8. Amigos Para Siempre? 7c+
6.1. Alar
West
30 m.
5
12
17
13
24 23
9. Foam party 7c
10. Murete Ya! 7c
11. Project ?
12. Zatropeck 7c
13. Old bolts 7b
14. Aferra el Tul 6c
15. Mata Guiris 7a+
16. No Res 7a+
17. Frit 6a
18. Sobrassada 5
19. Bulge by-pass 6a+
20. :)Snowboard 5+
21. Fido-dido 6a
22. Vagon roll 4+
23. Las Mallas de Cristo 5
24. Hola qu Tal 6a
coronn.com
S
tainless
sw
e
d
is
h
s
te
e
l
c
o
b
r
a
3 9,10 5, 6, 7
4
2
1
7
10
1. ? 5a
2. ? 6b
3. Three-pitcher 6c, 6c, 6b
4. Lute 7a
5. Superchorrera access 6a
6. Superchorrera 7b
7. XTR 7a+
8. Therapy 7b
9. Snchez ?
10. Magnum 7c, 6a, 6b
6.2. Alar
West
25 m. Multi-pitch up to 70 m.
8
coronn.com
6
6.3. Alar
West
30 m.
3
4
7
10
8
9
8
15
14
13
12
11
1 and 2
16 and 17
1. ? 6b
2. ? 6c
3. ? 8a
4. Hob nops 6c+
5. Buf! 7a
6. Top Pa Ti 7a+
7. Cloncin 7b
8. Pilar 7b
9. Project ?
10. ? 6c
11. ? 6b+
12. ? 6c
13. ? 6a+
14. Pincha Uvas 5+, 7b+
15. Kiko 6a
16. Xavier 7a+
17. Lone 7c 7c
coronn.com
6
Drive from Bunyola in the
direction of Santa Maria. Turn
left as you leave the village,
about 200 meters before a bar
on the your left-hand side of the
road. Follow this road, which at
times is of poor standard,
through many hairpin bends.
Park on the side of the road just
after you have passed a 5 km
post.
Follow the track, turn left into
the bushes. Cross a charcoal pit
and continue. Hold right and use
the rope to scramble down.
Finally turn right and follow the
track to the crag.
7.1. Fraguel
North-West
30 m.
8
7
6
5
4 3
11
9,
10
12
14
13
15
18
17
16
19
21
20
23
22
24
25
26
Route 1 and 2
coronn.com
10
Direction
Santa Maria
5 km post
P
P
M
2
1
0
P
M
2
0
2
C
7
1
1
Bunyola
1. Left pillar 6a
2. Pastel de Ochoce 6a
3. Ochobe Mas 6b
4. Vuit se mes 6a
5. Ojo Climico 6c+, 6c
6. 666 6b+, 6c
7. Tabasco 7a+
8. Harissa 7b
9. Pink Panther 6a+
10. El Terrat 6b
11. Caca de Colores 7a+
12. Rosa de Sanatorio 7b+
13. Fakir 6c
14. Flake and Groove 5+
15. Psycho Killer 6c+
16. Jungle hop 7a+
17. Salpicn de Menisco 8a
18. Solo Sex 8a
19. Orange Scoop Right 8b+
20. Grey streak 8b
21. Goo Goo Mack 8a
22. Le Gorille a une Bonne Mine 7c
23. Amnesia 8b+
24. Football fan 8a
25. Shabada 8a+
26. Ramadn 8a
7.2. Fraguel
North-West
30 m.
Drive from Bunyola in the direction of Santa Maria. Turn
left as you leave the village, about 200 meters before a
bar on the your left-hand side of the road. Follow this road,
which at times is of poor standard, through many hairpin
bends. Park on the side of the road just after you have
passed a 5 km post.
Follow the track, turn left into the bushes. Cross a charcoal
pit and continue. Hold right and use the rope to scramble
down. Finally turn right and follow the track to the crag.
27
29,
30
28 31
32
33
30
34 35
37 36
38
41
39,
40
39
42
43,
44
44
47
46
45
coronn.com
Direction
Santa Maria
5 km post
P
P
M
2
1
0
P
M
2
0
2
C
7
1
1
Bunyola
27. Project ?
28. French kiss 8b
29. Terre dAdventure 7b+
30. Terre dAdventure Plus 8a
31. Fes lo que Puguis 7b
32. Miss Palma 7b+
33. Bodo dodo 6c+,7b+, 8c+
34. Humanoide 8a+
35. No name 8b+
36. Pantano boas 7c+
37. Miguel and the test tube babies 7c+
38. Aloha from Hell 7c
39. Glasnost 7b
40. Tte de Pene 7c+
41. El ltimo Vals 7c+
42. Rock punk 7c+
43. Cuencamelo 7c
44. On es lavi 7b+
45. Pastanaga Punyetera 8a
46. Setebe el Plumero 7b+
47. Juan Palomo 8a
7.3. Fraguel
North-West
20 m.
Drive from Bunyola in the direction of Santa
Maria. Turn left as you leave the village, about
200 meters before a bar on the your left-hand
side of the road. Follow this road, which at times
is of poor standard, through many hairpin bends.
Park on the side of the road just after you have
passed a 5 km post.
Follow the track, turn left into the bushes. Cross
a charcoal pit and continue. Hold right and use
the rope to scramble down. Finally turn right and
follow the track to the crag.
48
57
56
55
54
53
52
51
50 49
58
Bunyola, view from the summit of Alqueria
coronn.com
Direction
Santa Maria
5 km post
P
P
M
2
1
0
P
M
2
0
2
C
7
1
1
Bunyola
48. Cotorrot 7c+
49. Cous-Cous 6c
50. Esto no es Calvi 6b+
51. Sementir 6a+
52. Comando Rasta 6a
53. Hard finish 6b+
54. Peep shows Garriga 7b+
55. Marmade 7b
56. Tofol 6b+
57. Churro Pino 6a
58. Chris line 4+
8. Es Queixal
North-West
20 m. Multi pitch 80 m.
From Gorg Blau (see crag 9.)and
the Bar in the crossroad. Follow
signpost for Cala Tuent/Sa
Calobra. After a road with endless
hairpins on a narrow road you
finally arrives to Cala Tuent and
the restaurant. Take a long walk,
after you have passed the Villa
SAvenc, follow a vague or invisible
track in the direction of the Col to
the right side of Es Queixal.
Scramble up the steep slope to
reach the crag. A beautiful crag,
and a nice atmosphere but it is a
very long trip for 8 routes.
Take the Bus?
When we visit the area a tourist
bus on its way from Sa Calobra
was laying in a steep sloop beside
the road!
The routes are, from left to right:
1. Es queixal corcat 6a+x3
2. Sa travessa des Queixal 6b
3. Gelat i Desrinyonat 6a+
4. Joses show 7a+
5. Pepa Pattisier 6c
6. Rintintn 6b
7. Santas Pascuas 5+
8. Canta y no LLores 6a
At the top/left-hand side (South-
West) there is three short routes,
from left to right;
1. Los tuberculosos 5+
2. Es Mirador 5+
3. Id a qu Esperes 6a+
Es Queixal
Restaurant
P
P
coronn.com
9. Gorg Blau, Keymap
coronn.com
The crag SAigo Blava, we dont have any information about
the route names or grades.
on a step crag. To reach the crag, park, continue
on the road for the dam (restricted area) and
follow a vague track to crag. The picture is taken
from the car park.
To find the last crag, the main sectors of Gorg
Blau, continue trough the tunnel, after about 6-
700 metres you will arrive to a Bar and a big
aqueduct over the road. Park on the opposite
side of the bar on a big lay-by to a gravelled
road that leads to the crags. Walk along the
fence and pass this on the left side and then
continue on the gravelled road (restricted area).
You can also continue on the road in the direction
of Lluc, in the first bend to the left, turn right and
follow a track direct up to a visible beautiful
track.
Direction
Sller
On the road from Sller to Port de Sller
you will find a road to the right with
signpost for Lluc/Pollena. Follow this
road, C-710, winding up in the direction of
Serre de Torrelles. As you reach the first
tunnel, at a sightseeing point named Coll the
Pulg Major you will find the first of these crag,
Can Nyic. Park just before the tunnel and follow
a track up to the crag (to the left). Continue on
the same road, pass a couple of lakes and
another tunnel. As you arrive to another lake
where the road runs just beside the lake to its
end where you will find a car park just before
the tunnel you find the second crag, SAigo
Blava. We dont have any Topos or route
information on this one but the routes are hard
Sller
C
7
1
1
C
7
1
0
C710
M
A
-
2
1
4
1
M
A
-
2
1
4
1
Bar
P
P
Direction
Lluc
Direction
Sa Calobra
Embassament
das Gorg Blau
1. Aixo es LHabana 6b+
2. The blank wall ?
3. Estreny els Dits 7b
4. Lolas 6c+
5. Only for women 6b+
6. Luisa en la Repisa 5
7. Luisa me Avisa 6a
8. Sa Primavera 6c+
9. Akkupunktur 7a+
9.1. Gorg Blau, Es Torrente
East
30 m.
6,
7
5
4
3
11
14 13
1
2
12
coronn.com
10. La Noche me Confunde 7b
11. Ni Guibo Ni Bloco 7c+
12. Na Taca 8a
13. Sa Festa 7c
14. Natiu 8b
15. SEntreforc 8b+
16. Mr. Magu 8a+
17. Karakorum 7c
18. Sliva 8b
8
7
9 10
15 16 17
18
1. Tuinki yunki 7c
2. Joan Petit 6b+
3. Sa Canal 6b
4. Fill de Puta 7a
5. ? 7a+
6. Farina de Fora 7b
7. Chiringuito 6c+
8. SEscorpi 6b+
9.2. Plaques
West, North-West
30 m.
6
5
4
3
11
14
13
1
2,
3
12
7
coronn.com
8
9
10
15
16
9. Sa Taranta 7b+
10. Mala Llet Forastera 8a
11. ? 7a
12. Mort de Fam 7a+
13. Parkinson 6c
14. ? 6b+
15. Hay, Hay! 7c+
16. ? 4
17. ? 7a
18. Gueropa 7a
19. Airbus 7b
20. ? 7c
21. Bart Simpson 7b
22. Lisa Limson 6b+
23. ? 5
24. Project ?
9.3. Plaques and des Cable
West, North-West
30 m.
coronn.com
10 m
16
19
18
17
22,
23
21
20
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
32
31
30
25. Chill Out 7a, 8a+
26. Gorg Blau 7a,7b+,7c+
27. Project ?
28. La Misin 7a, 8b+
29. Tot s.com 8b+, ?
30. Sa Fosca 7a, 8c
31. No Badis 6c+, 8b+
32. Long Beach 8a+
Above; Left, view from Ermita de Beetlem, Right, Beach, Palma. Under; Left, view from car park to Betlem, Right, Puig de Garrafa
Above; Left, beautiful crag, Right, view from El Calo. Under; Left, view from Miradords Columet, Right, Sa Gubia, Princesa
Drive along the 710 from Sller in the direction
of Pollena. After 10 km you will reach the first
tunnel. Park before reaching the tunnel. Follow
a track up to the left of the tunnel to reach the
crag. On the way up to the crag you will pass four
routes that are not on this TOPO. Leave your car
open, there have been breakins.
1
7
6
5
4
3
2
9
8
1. Bernadi Company 6c+
2. Nycinyatos 4+
3. Borinot 6c
4. Ho Passam Pillo 7a+
5. Bona Nyic 6a+
6. Molins de Paper 6b
7. Tutup 6c
8. Na Faresta 7b+
9. S'Horabaixa 7c
On the way from car park to the crag,
from left to the right;
10. Agent Orange 8a+
11. Impossible ?
12. Thin Seam 7b
13. Max Cady 7c
40 meter to the left.
10. Can Nyic
N 39 47.500
EO 02 46.568
North-West
30 m.
P
Tunnel
Direction
Sller
R
o
u
t
e
10 to 13
P
coronn.com
Sller
C
7
1
1
C
7
1
0
C710
On the road from Palma to Sller you can choose to take a tunnel
to save time, the cost for this is Euro 4.25 (2007) single way! Drive
in to Port Sller and follow the seafront. The "main" road splits into
a wider road and two "No entry" signes appear. Turn sharp right
(onto Cami de Cingle) and take the narrow road up the hill. Shortly
after the bar on your left there is a new luxurious hotel. Park outside
the bar and take the footpath down to the crag.
Cave Cova des Cingles,
far left.
Hotel
150 meters
1
2
3,4,5
10
9 8
7
6
14,15 11
16
15
20,
21
17,
18
18
24
25
27
26
50 meters
1. Miguelin el politoxicmano 6c 11. Sun 6c 21. Babu Mac 6b+
2. Cristo el transexual 7a 12. Sea 6b 22. Wall left 6c
3. Repoman 8a 13. Sand 6a 23. Wall right 6b
4. Alliens 6b 14. Dit I Fet 7a 24. Picnic left 6c
5. El folla-guris 6a 15. Virgin 8a+ 25. Picnic 6b+
6. Doris 7b 16. ? ? 26. Picnic centre 6c
7. La Machado 7c 17. Fantomas 7b 27. Picnic right 7a
8. Blobland 6c 18. Ficalito 7c
9 .Bon vi 6a 19. Super 3 7b
10 .Els salvatges 6b 20. Ja son five 6c+
5
4
13
12
19
21
23
22
11. Port Sller
N 39 48.207
EO 02 41.698
North-West
30 m.
The
bay
coronn.com
Port Sller
P
Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa.
From Valldemossa, drive towards the coast, pass
the first right turn, the 710 towards Sller, and take
the next turning to the right, signposted Port
d'Valldemossa.
Approximately 1 km further the view opens and
you can see the sea. The crags are alongside the
road, in fact, you drive under some of them. Park
in a lay-bay just after the main crag. Walk back
150 meters to reach this crag. On the way, you
pass a small crag with routes numbered 1,2 and
3, which are not included in this TOPO. We
recommend the restaurant in Port d'Valldemossa.
Road
Road
4
8
7
6
5
9
Port d'Valldemossa
(Se Marina)
1. Izqauierdo (not on the TOPO) 4
2. Centro (not on the TOPO) 4
3. Derecho (not on the TOPO) 4
4. Zurdo 6a
5. Rompededos 6a+
6. Prfido Encanto 6a+
7. Triplet Derecho 6b
8. Recto Cresta 5+
9. Derecho Castilla 6b
12.1. Valldemossa, Roadside
South, South-West
15 m.
Valldemossa
C
7
1
0
P
M
1
1
1
P
M
V
1
1
3
-
1
coronn.com
P
M
V
1
1
3
-
1
12.1.
12.2.
12.3.
12.4.
P
Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa.
From Valldemossa, drive towards the coast, pass
the first right turn, the 710 towards Sller, and take
the next turning to the right, signposted Port
d'Valldemossa.
Approximately 1 km further the view opens and
you can see the sea. The crags are alongside the
road, in fact, you drive under some of them. Park
in a lay-bay just after the main crag. Walk back
150 meters to reach this crag. On the way, you
pass a small crag with routes numbered 1,2 and
3, which are not included in this TOPO. We
recommend the restaurant in Port d'Valldemossa.
12.2. Valldemossa
South-West
25 m.
Port d'Valldemossa
(Se Marina)
Road
P
3,
4
5,
6
2
1
4
6
7
8 9
16
15
13,
14
11
10
14
17
12
1. Left Edge 6b
2. Kiko 6b
3. Scooped Runnel 6b
4. Project ?
5. Palmolive 7b
6. Intrpido 6c
7. Short crack 7a
8. Via des Clau 6b
9. El Jubilado 5
10. Suphi 6a
11. Fito 6b+
12. El Jubilado direct 6b+
13. Pepa 6a+
14. Pepino 6b+
15. Sostre den Burot 6c+
16. Sostre den Burot direct 7a+
17. Dali 5+
coronn.com
Valldemossa
C
7
1
0
P
M
1
1
1
P
M
V
1
1
3
-
1
1. Scoop left 7b
2. Rusty 7c
3. Bulging Wall 7c
4. Central flake 6b+
5. Vall-de-mega 7a
6. Wall Eliminate 7a+
7. Chimenea 5+
8. Central right 6b+
9. Spanky 6a
10. Lanky 6a
11. Average 6b+
1
7
5,6
3,4
12
10
9
8
11
5
10
3
Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa. From Valldemossa, drive
towards the coast, pass the first right turn, the 710 towards Sller, and take the
next turning to the right, signposted Port d'Valldemossa.
Approximately 1 km further the view opens and you can see the sea. The crags
are alongside the road, in fact, you drive under some of them. Park in a lay-bay
just after the main crag. Walk back 150 meters to reach this crag. On the way,
you pass a small crag with routes numbered 1,2 and 3, which are not included
in this TOPO. We recommend the restaurant in Port d'Valldemossa.
12.3. Valldemossa
South-West
30 m.
Port d'Valldemossa
(Se Marina)
2
13 14
15
16,
17
20
18,
19
21
22
12. Shorty 6a
13. Poor Groove 7a+
14. Thin Wall 6c+
15. Jarcha 6b+
16. Why not 6c+
17. The crack 6c
18. Poor Eliminate 7a
19. Arroz con Leche 6c
20. Right-hand crack 6b+
21. Kirsten 5+
22. Kirsten II 5+
coronn.com
Valldemossa
C
7
1
0
P
M
1
1
1
P
M
V
1
1
3
-
1
P
M
V
1
1
3
-
1
12.1.
12.2.
12.3.
12.4.
P
Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa. From Valldemossa, drive
towards the coast, pass the first right turn, the 710 towards Sller, and take the
next turning to the right, signposted Port d'Valldemossa.
Approximately 1 km further the view opens and you can see the sea. The crags
are alongside the road, in fact, you drive under some of them. Park in a lay-bay
just after the main crag. Walk back 150 meters to reach this crag. On the way,
you pass a small crag with routes numbered 1,2 and 3, which are not included
in this TOPO. We recommend the restaurant in Port d'Valldemossa.
12.4. Valldemossa
South-West
20 m.
Port d'Valldemossa
(Se Marina)
1. Roof route left 7a
2. Roof route right 6c+
3. Fisura 5
4. Under Waikiki 6c+
5. Waikiki 7b
6. Chimenea 6a
1
6
5
2
4
3
coronn.com
Valldemossa
C
7
1
0
P
M
1
1
1
P
M
V
1
1
3
-
1
Drive from Palma in the direction of
Valldemossa. 4 km after you have
passed the village of S'Egleita you
pass a 14km milestone by the
roadside. On the left you will find a
lay-bay close to a bridge over a dry
riverbed (3,2 km before Valldemossa).
Park here and follow a track through
the trees. You will pass some small
bouldering crags (grades is not
covered in the Topos) after 250
metres, turn left after these and make
your way to the crag. The crag is an
old quarry and the routes are therefore
numbered which makes route finding
easy. Many routes are chipped.
1. Rock-fall arete ?
2. Head Hunter 8a+
3. Tatoo 8a,8b+
4. Defcon One 8a
5. Si yo fuera presidente 7b+
6. Odio a cobi 7b
7. Txino tzapa 8a
8. El sudaca 7a+
9. Tetrix 7c+
5 4
3
2
9 6
6
12
11
16 14,
15
15
6 5
8
10 11
13 12
18 17
20 19
23
13.1. Sestrt
N 39 41.536
EO 02 37.942
North
25 m.
P
Direction
Valldemossa
Direction
S'Egleita
P
M
-
1
1
1
T
o
r
r
e
n
t

d
e

V
a
l
l
d
e
m
o
s
s
a
13.1.
13.2.
13.3.
13.4.
1
7,
8
10
13
17,
18
10. Buocracia 6b+
11. Staples ?
12. Casi 7c
13. Maximo Riesgo 7c
14. La Gigante Verde 7a
15. Directe Verde 7a+
16. Bomber Torrat 7a+
17. Left line 6c
18. Right line 5
Three more routes to the left of the
rockfall, from left to right, 8a, 7b+ and a
project.
coronn.com
The left hand side of the crag
collapsed in January 2005. The rock
fall destroyed all routes.
Drive from Palma in the direction
of Valldemossa. 4 km after you
have passed the village of
S'Egleita you pass a 14km
milestone by the roadside. On
the left you will find a lay-bay
close to a bridge over a dry
riverbed (3,2 km before
Valldemossa). Park here, cross
the road and follow a track just
beside the river down to the
crags.
13.3. Sestrt, Cuarentn
West
25 m.
5
4
3
2
6
12
1
10,
11
13,
14
7
8
9
1. Mexicans forever 6c
2. Kum Laude 7a+
3. ? ?
4. Busibus 6c+
5. Red Stain 6b+
6. Part Forana 5+
7. Movimiento Sexy 5+
8. Tight slab 6a
9. Menage Trois 6a+
10. Eliminate 5+
11. Virgin 6a
12. Las Cagao 5
13. ? 5
14. ? 5 coronn.com
10
14
P
Direction
Valldemossa
Direction
S'Egleita
P
M
-
1
1
1
T
o
r
r
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d
e

V
a
l
l
d
e
m
o
s
s
a
13.1.
13.2.
13.3.
13.4.
13.4. Sestrt
Sector Mario, Pipe and Pasin
N 39 41.454
EO 02 38.175
West
30 m.
Valldemossa. 4 km after you have passed
the village of S'Egleita you pass a 14km
milestone by the roadside. On the left you
will find a lay-bay close to a bridge over
a dry riverbed (3,2 km before
Valldemossa). Park here, cross the road
and follow a track just beside the river
down to the crags. Sector Mario is the
first one you reach with three routes.
Shortly after the Pipe sector with for more
routes and finally, slightly up behind Pipe,
the sector Pasin with five routes.
4
3
2
1
5,
6
4
3
2
1
7
6
5
20 m.
1. El Bandido de un Brazo 6a
2. El Culo 5
3. Con el Culo al Aire 5+
4. Variant 5+
5. Pasin interminable 5
6. Pasin Oculta 4+
5
1. Mario Moreno II 4+
2. Mario Moreno 5
3. Zarzamora 4+
4. ? 4+
5. ? 5
6. ? 4+
7. Pezn 5+
8. Quarried Wall 5+
8
coronn.com
P
Direction
Valldemossa
Direction
S'Egleita
P
M
-
1
1
1
T
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d
e

V
a
l
l
d
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m
o
s
s
a
13.1.
13.2.
13.3.
13.4.
Drive from Palma in the direction of Sller on the C711. You will pass Palmanola, and 4 km after
a crossroad leads to Bunyola on your right. Park there, by a Restaurant "Can Penasso". Cross
the road just left, and follow the small road on the other side. You will pass a car park which
shouldn't be used since the climbing in Sa Gubia could be stoped if climbers do so. Continue, pass
two gates and when a dry river bed turns up cross that one and then follow a track to the right next
to the river bed to the crag.
14. Sa Gubia, Keymap
Don't use this
footpath !!
Direction
Palma
Direction
Sller
Don't use this
footpath !!
coronn.com
C
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7
1
1
P
M
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2
1
0
Bunyola
P
Restaurant
Can Penasso
T
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r
r
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t
d
e

S
A
l
q
u
a
t
L
a

B
i
a
n
c
a
T
o
r
r
e
n
t
U
s
u
a
l
l
y
d
e

S
A
l
q
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a
t
a

d
r
y

r
i
v
e
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b
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d L
a

B
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c
a
14.1.
14.2. 14.3.
14.4.
14.5.
Track to the summit
of Alqueria (609 m)
1 Pecho lata (no TOPO) 6b+ 11 Pin Fijo 7b+
2 Amor Brujo (no TOPO) 6b,6a+ 12 Silo s no vengo 6c
3 Papa Moreno (no TOPO) 6b 13 Perque triunfin els cannalas 6b+
4 Peur impossible 5,7a 14 Pesadilla final 6a+
5 Es Poal 6b 15 Peladora 6c
6 Esto no es Quinto 7a+
7 Sal de arenal 6c
8 Tres menos cuarto 7b+
9 Front 242 7b+
10 Algo salvage 6b
14.1.1. Sa Gubia
Left part of Pares dels Coloms
South-East
40 m.
coronn.com
Route number 1 to 3
(no TOPO)
4
6
5
13
12
11
9,
10
8
7
10
15
14
16. Humi 6a+
17. Mes rapit suc el vent 6a
18. Pellojo de tiburon 7a
19. Seis pelas 6a,6c
20. Decadencia corporal 6c,7b+
21. Comechocos 6b+
22. Tao 6b,6c+
23. Leather face 7a+,6c+
14.1.2. Sa Gubia
Right part of Pares dels Coloms
South-East
40 m. Multi pitch up to 60 m.
16
20
19
18
17
21
22
23
24
25,
26
26
28 30
27
28
29
31
coronn.com
24. Pasteles de Isabel 7b,6c+
25. Gay power 7a+
26. Vol de nuit 6b
27. Tia melis 6a, 6a
28. Estricnina 5, 5+,5
29. Chungui chunguez 5,6c
30. Danzomania 5+,6a+,6a+
31. Guatn 5+,6a
1,2
2
3
8
7
6
5
4
9,
10
11
14
16
15
23
33
36
35
34
14.2. Sa Gubia
Gubia Normal, Bomberos, Princesa, Espaol
West, North-West
Multi pitch up to 200 m.
1. Gubia normal 2+,4+,3+,
3+, 4+,3,3
2. Quan es fa Fec 2+,5,5,5
3. Gubia variante 4+
4. Chitas marchitas 6b+
5. Charly Danone 7a+
6. Jdete y Baila 6b+
7. Fill de ric 6a
8. Puta Perro 6a+
9. La Ley del Deseo 5,5,4+,5
10. Sonrisa vertical 5,6a
11. The master 5+,6a
12. Polla Bopa 5+,6a
13. Mejico Lindo 5+,6a+
14. Variant 5
15. ? 4+,6a
16. ? 4+,6a
17. Oasis (38 m!) 6a+
18. ? 6c
19. Via des los Bomberos 6a,6a+, 6a,6b
20. Hambre Eterna 6b
21. Princessa 6a,6c,5,6a,5
22. Variant 6b+,6a
23. Placa Aspera 6a+
24. Tierra al Reves 6a+
25. Moco de Pravo 7b+
26. Foracorda 8b
27. Idem 7b+
28. De Gorrones hasta los Cojones 8a
29. Steep Groove 7a
30. Sexo Debil 4,6a+,6b+,
6b,6b
31. Easy slab 4
32. Cannabis variant 4
33. Cannabis in Vitro 4
34. Pataje Espaol 4+
35. El jardin de la Abuela 5
36. Tantum Ergo 4+
37. Mi pichina 7b
38. Miju 7b+
39. Caperucita Roja 6b
40. Groove 6a
41. Variant 6b
17
20
18,
19
22
21
38
37
39
40
coronn.com
12
13
18
24
25
26
29
28
27
30
31
32
41
1
3
2
4
5
6
10,
11
7
9
12,
13
13
10
14
4
5
1. To Kiski'm'toca 6c+
2. Fina y Segura 6b
3. Pringa mete el dedo 6b
4. La isla Bonita 6b+,4,6a+
5. Variant 6a
6. Placa Nuevo 5+,6b
7. Franceces 6a,5,6c
8. Phantasmagoria 7a+
9. Bongo Bongo 7a+
10. Gigolo 7b
11. Why! 6b+
12. Cortocircuito 6b
13. Zaragay 6a
14. Agratte Maldito 7b+
14.3. Sa Gubia
Isla Bonita, Why
South
8
8
anodized, shrouded nose helps guard against accidental gate opening. coronn.com
1. KGB 6c+
2. Na Guarra 6a
3. Excalibur 6a,6a,6b
4. No Haces ms Grado
porque Eres Enado 6c+
5. Trampera Matinera 6b
6. Bofetadas de Placer 7b+
7. pera prima 6a+
8. Charismatic 6c
9. Hot consuela 6c+
10. Horrible Belleza 7a
11. Ingleses 6b+
14.4. Sa Gubia
Sector Exalibur and Silicona
South
30 m. Multi pitch up to 60 m.
1
8
6
4,
5
3,
7
2
10
7 4
3
1
6
5
4
3
2
9,
10,
11
8 7
9
11
Silicona
1. Hawaii 5-0 4+
2. Silicona 6b+
3. Lulu 6a+
4. Proteina vegetal 6a
5. Totom fa el que Vol 6a+
6. Resaca 6a+
7. Gran Pis 6b
8. Rustic Pogo 6b+
9. ? 6a+
10. Familia iscariote 6a
11. Familia variante 6b
coronn.com
10 11
N 39 41.594
EO 02 40.396
14.5. Sa Gubia, Cara Oeste
N 39 41.822
EO 02 40.414
West
1
5
4
3
2
8
7
10
9
1. Bush rit et Massacre 7a+
2. Interval training 7a+
3. Gato Negro 7a+
4. Scaladores en perdicin 7c
5. Lluvia providencial 7a+,7b
6. Escaladores en la Niebla 6b,6c+,6b+,6c+
7. Los colores de la Caliza 7b,7b,7a+,6c+
8. Le Lapin en dcomposition 6b,7b,7c/Ao or 8a,7a+
9. Voyages dans leau de ... 7c/8a,7b,7c/8a,7a
10. Tres estrellas 5,7c,7c,7a
View over Cara Oeste. A long
approach, best way is to take the road
that leads to the summit of Alqueria (pass
the bar by foot and continue about 1 km, then
turn left and follow a gravelled road). The wall is
great, and there is hundreds of Tufas. However,
since the wall is very big, we have marked black
field with grey colour since they help you best to find the
routes. The approach take 1 to 1,5 hours if you move fast.
coronn.com
6
15. Can Ortigues
N 39 37.465
EO 02 25.465
West
25 m.
1,2. 25 metres.
4
3
12
10,
11
8,
9
7
6
5
14
13
18
17
16
15
Drive from Andratx on road C-710 in the
direction of Estellencs, Sller. Pass a 103
kilometres post just after a hairpin bend
and after the next hairpin, park on a big
lay-bay. The crag is just above the lay-
bay but continue by foot about 50 metres
down the road and you will find a good
track to reach the track.
1. Los abajo firmantes 6a+
2. Balrog 6b+
3. No siento las Piernas 6a+
4. Hobbiton 4
5. Quin Clau 5c
6. Ultimos Dias de la vtima 6b
7. Regina 7a
8. Barbol 5+
9. La Ley de la Frontera 5+
10. La Tuya y la mia 6a
11. Armageddon 6a
12. ? 5
13. Puercoespin 6a
14. Tierra Media 6c
15. Club Privado, Project ?
16. Guancho 6c
17. ? ?
18. Area de Servicio 4+ coronn.com
9
11
C
-
7
1
0
P
103 km
16.1. Piug de Garrafa
N 39 33.681
EO 02 25.478
North-West
20 m.
Drive from Palma in the direction of Andratx on
road PM-1. Continue on Ma-1C and follow signs
for Andratx. About 2-2,5 kilometres after the
second tunnel, at Coll dAndritxol, a smaller
asphalt road turns sharp right (in opposite
direction) just before a signpost for Port dAndratx
/Sant Elm. Turn right and follow this road for
100 metres. Park out of the road since large
lorries is passing for fetching water in the big
reservoir just by the road side. From here
you will see the crags.
Pass a fence just to the right of
the gate and follow a gravelled
road to its end. Take the track
to the left for 16.1. and 16.2.,
to the right for 16.3. and 16.4.
1
5
2,
3
8
7
30-40 metres to 16.2. 1. Lucas 6a+
2. Colmena 6b+
3. Ella ya no vive aqui 6a+
4. Front 6c
5. Cuatre Pichos 6b
6. ? ?
7. ? ?
8. The crack 6c+
coronn.com
16.1.
16.2.
16.3.
16.4.
Andratx
Signpost for
Port dAndratx,
Sant Elm
P
P
P
Coll
DAndritxol
6
3
4
North-West
20 m.
Drive from Palma in the direction of Andratx on road PM-
1. Continue on Ma-1C and follow signs for Andratx. About
2-2,5 kilometres after the second tunnel, at Coll dAndritxol,
a smaller asphalt road turns sharp right (in opposite direction)
just before a signpost for Port dAndratx /Sant Elm. Turn
right and follow this road for 100 metres. Park out of the
road since large lorries is passing for fetching water in
the big reservoir just by the road side. From here
9
10
15
14
13
12 11
17
18
16
19
20
21
22
23
24
9. Dona Simena 5
10. Polvaron 6a
11. Ilegales 7a+
12. Legado 7b
13. Cala Bruix 6a
14. ? 7a
15. ? 6b+
16. El Canto del Loco 6c
17. Camino al Infierno 7b
18. Bufon 6b
19. Endemicus 6c
20. Vampiro 6b+
21. Vampiresa 6b
22. Macaco 6a
23. Puta girl 6a+
24. Erectus
coronn.com
Andratx
Signpost for
Port dAndratx,
Sant Elm
Coll
DAndritxol
16.1.
16.2.
16.3.
16.4.
P
P
P
N 39 33.586
EO 02 25.528
North-West
25 m.
1
2
8
7
3
9
10
11
14
13
12
Track to 16.4.
1. Alacran 5+
2. Teresetes 6b+
3. Thin Wall 7b
4. ? 7c
5. Chorrera 7a
6. ? 7b
7. ? 7b+
8. Chpamela 6b+
9. Chpamela Derecha 6a
10. Orange Recess 8a+
11. ? 7c
12. ? 7b
13. Soledad 6c
14. Dios No Puedo 6b
coronn.com
Andratx
Signpost for
Port dAndratx,
Sant Elm
Coll
DAndritxol
16.1.
16.2.
16.3.
16.4.
P
P
P
6
4,
5
4
N 39 33.554
EO 02 25.652
South
25 m.
1
2
8
7
3
9
10, further right
1. Lcifer 6a
2. Metllica 6a
3. Snoopy 5
4. Mafalda 5
5. Scooby Doo 6a
6. ? 4
7. The Wall 5+
8. ? 4+
9. ? 4+
10. Stairway to Heaven 6b+
coronn.com
Andratx
Signpost for
Port dAndratx,
Sant Elm
Coll
DAndritxol
16.1.
16.2.
16.3.
16.4.
P
P
P
6
5
4
17. Santa Pona
N 39 30.478
EO 02 28.962
North, North-West
20 m.
Drive from Palma in the
direction of Andratx on
road Ma-1. Turn for Santa
Pona. In the first
roundabout, turn left and
follow signpost for Golf.
Continue, pass two
roundabouts and in the
third, turn left and park on
a car park just by a school.
Follow the track up to the
crag that you can see
from the car park.
Not the best crag, and
neither a great view. If you
stay in the village it can
be a nice crag for the
evening though.
1
2
8,
9
7
3
3
1,
2
6
3
1. Flake route 6a
2. Variant 6b+
3. ? 7b
4. ? 7a+
5. ? 7a+
6. ? 6c+
7. ? (Neads gear) 6a
8. The scoop 7b
9. ? 7b+
coronn.com Casa Pastorers
A
v
e
n
id
a
d
e
l R
e
y
J
a
u
m
e
Avenida del
S
a
n
t
a

P
o
n
a
N
o
v
a
P
Ma-1
Direction
Palma
Direction
Andratx
Avenida de Nova Santa P
ona
School P
P
Calle de Na Morisca
6
5
4
9
Calvi, in the village, take right
where a signpost shows
"Establishments". Continue out of
the village until you just have past
a section with stone walls on both
sides of the road (about 2,6 km
after Calvi). Park in a small lay-
bay on the right side of the road in
a bend. Walk back 75 metres and
climb over a fence. Follow the track
into the wood and the valley and
after approximately 700 meters you
will see the crag when you stands
below it. The climbing is not excelent
compared with other crags on
Mallorca but shadow make people
chose it even though.
1. ? 6b
2. ? 6a
3. Seman Semidesnatado 6b 17. Pinchito moruno 5+
4. Vuelo sin Moto 6c+ 18. El ultiomo de la fila 6a
5. Windjamer 6a 19. Calentura invernal 5+
6. No Cal Senior fiscal 5+ 20. Primera experiensa 4+
7. Chanso 6a+ 21. Filas pipas 6a+
8. Perona 6c
9. Tirili 6b
10. Saque mate 6c
11. Jota jota 6b
12. Tu polla me enrolla 6a
13. Batakalofis 5+
14. Caguerra perpetua 5+
15. Extrafina 6a+
16. ? 5+
18. Calvi
West
25 m.
1
3,4
2
4
12
11 10 9
8
7
6
5
15
14
13
19
18
17
16
20
16,
17,
18
21
coronn.com
P
P
Calvi
PM-V-101-6
19.1. El Calo de Betlem
N 39 45.598
EO 03 19.804
North, North-West
20 m.
1
2,3
4
8,9
7
6
5
Drive the road C-712 between Art and Can Picafort. Turn
of North and follow signpost for Colnia de Sant Pere /
Betlem. Continue until you reach the villa settlement of
Betlem, drive trough and pass a gate and continue
approximately 500 metres on a gravelled road. Park and
walk on the road to the crags.
If you continue about 1 kilometres from crag 19.2. you will
reach a beach.
1. Horitous 7a
2. Pin 6b
3. Pon 7b+
4. Tot Disney 7a
5. Yogui 7a
6. Bordillo 7a
7. Project ?
8. ? ?
9. ? ?
coronn.com
19.1.
19.2.
Betlem
2
C-712
Art
19.2. El Calo de Betlem
N 39 45.997
EO 03 20.068
North-West, West, South-West
20 m.
See 19.1.
4
7,8
6
5
3
9
10
11
13
14
15
16
17
18
19,
20
21
9. Canal 6c+
10. La Curta 7a
11. Es Pasto 6b+
12. Tequila forever 7a+
13. Xupamela 6b
14. Crozzly Wall 6b
15. Facil 5+
16. Almudaina 6a
17. Moro 8a+
18. ? 6b+
19. Tot Picat 7b
20. El Nostro projecte 6c
21. Murto 6c
1. Sostre (15 m. left) 7a
2. Joan 90 6a+
3. ? 6b
4. ? 6b+
5. Fisura 5+
6. Wilow 6a
7. Juanma 7a+
8. Project ?
coronn.com
19.1.
19.2.
Betlem
2
8
12
20
C-712
Art
20.1. Ermita de Betlem
N 39 43.844
EO 03 18.665
North
20 m.
20,
21
Drive the road C-712 or C-715 to Art. In the village, find your way to the
centre and follow signposts for Ermita de Betlem. As you leave the
village, drive in the direction for Ermita de Betlem for 7,3 kilometres. On
a summit of a hill, before the road drops down to the Church, park on big
laybys to the left or right of the road. Continue on a gravelled road (pass
a gate) to the left about 4-500 metres and then you will see the crags to
your right. Follow a narrow track down to the crags.
1
2 3
10
9
8
7
6
14,
15
11,
12
16
17
18
23
5
4
13
20
22
21
19
25
24
1. Murto 7b
2. ? 6b
3. ? 6b+
4. ? 6b
5. ? 4
6. ? 6a
7. ? 6b+
8. ? 7a+
9. ? 6c
10. Tano 7a
11. ? 6b+
12. Los Satelites 7b+
13. Punt Roker 7c+
14. ? 7c+
15. ? 7a
16. Lolo 6c+
17. ? 7a
18. ? 6a+
19. ? 6c+
20. ? 7c+
21. ? 6a
22. ? 7a+
23. ? 7b+
24. ? 6c+
25. ? 6b
coronn.com
20.1.
20.2.
20.3.
15
12
P
P
1 route,
no name, no grade
Art
C
-
7
1
2
20.2.1. Ermita de Betlem
North
20 m.
1
2
3
9
8
7
6
5
4
10
11
12
13
14
15
16,
17
18
19
1. White Musk 6b+
2. Psicodelia 6c+
3. Tropical 7b+
4. Patranus 7b+
5. Lobo Estepario 7c+
6. Sometimes 7c+
7. Libido 7c
8. Muy Mucho ?
9. Mata Mua 7c
10. Mauricio en el pais el Vicio 7c+
11. Alicia el pais de la Malicia 7c+
12. Paranoid 8b+
13. Amapolia 7b+
14. Mazinger Z 7a+
15. Decadencia 8a+
16. Osito 7b+
17. Oso Perezoso 8b
18. Sembrador de Collias 8c
19. Magia 8b
coronn.com
20.1.
20.2.
20.3.
Art
C
-
7
1
2
20.2.2. Ermita de Betlem
North
20 m.
23,
24
20
21
25
26
28
29
30
27
32 31
22
20.Cubalibre 8c
21. Camino del Exceso 8a+
22. La Sombra de Cain 7c+
23. Piltrafilla 7c+
24. Septiembre Negro 8a
25. Siniestro Total 8b
26. Siniestro 8a+
27. Belle Epoque 6b+
28. Chin Chan 6b+
29. Plis-Plas 6a
30. Alquaeda 6b
31. Wild widow 6b+
32. Frenada Mariachi 6a
coronn.com
20.1.
20.2.
20.3.
Art
C
-
7
1
2
Drive to Santanyi and then towards "Cala Santanyi". After
you have left Santanyi you should ignore the first turning
signposted for Cala Santanyi and instead take the second
one. Then take the first left turn and then the first right
signposted for "HR Palmaria". Continue to a car park before
a barrier. Walk down the road to a ruin tower, then to the
right to come under the face of the crag.
1
4
3 2
6
7
8 9 10 12 11
13 14
15
21.1. Santanyi, left part
South
20 m.
5
17 16
45 metres to route 18.
coronn.com
Cala Santanyi
Sen Mger
Cala Figuera
Santanyi
P
M
V
6
1
0
-
2
P
M
6
1
0
Cala Santanyi
P
Tower
1. Left wing 6a
2. Churrito y Pelete 4+
3. Tom y Jerry 5
4. Ebam 4+
5. Ebamsa 5
6. Commando Foracorda 7a+
7. Semen de Trigo 6b
8. Finger killer 6c
9. Foot-hook 6b+
10. El Diedro 5+
11. Vino Tinto 6a
12. Tapas 6a+
13. Blame it on the rain 6c+
14. Honeymoon 7a
15. Never mind the bollocks 7a
16. Xiscu que Relliscu 6b
17. Tup de Rock 6c
18. Escuelar de Calor 6b+
19. Supersexi 7a
20. Un dimanche la companye 7a
21. Tocino for Pepino 7a
22. Flesh for Dani 7b
23. Raixa 7c
24. Comepiedras 7b+
25. Cancamos 7b
26. Miquelis 7b+
27. La Calle de Ritmo 7b
21.2. Santanyi, middle part
South
25 m.
18
19
20,21
24
27
25,
26
22,
23
26
20
coronn.com
Cala Santanyi
Sen Mger
Cala Figuera
Santanyi
P
M
V
6
1
0
-
2
P
M
6
1
0
Cala Santanyi
P
Tower
23
21.3. Santanyi, right part
South
25 m.
29
30 31 28
36
35
34
32
39
38
37
33
40
42
41
46
45,
46 44
43
47 to 52
28. Psicomambo 6c
29. La Peli 7b
30. Cocina Ligera 7b
31. Na cal les Seychelles 7a+
32. Colesterol Party 6a+
33. Batchcampft 7a+
34. Evola 8a
35. Raiworld, project ?
36. Calabruix 8b
37. Posedion 7b
38. Chuteur fou 7b+
39. Go Johnny 8a
40. Rompepiernas 7a
41. Naranja 7a
42. Espoln 6c
43. Casting 6b+
44. Executive producer 6c+
45. Cumosho 6c+
46. Screenplay 6c
47. Postal service 7a+
48. Tijuana 8a+
49. Sa des Plastics 7b+
50. Welcome to Paradise 7b+
51. Perestroica 8?
52. Costa Sud 6b+
coronn.com
Cala Santanyi
Sen Mger
Cala Figuera
Santanyi
P
M
V
6
1
0
-
2
P
M
6
1
0
Cala Santanyi
P
Tower
3 2
Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca". After
about 8 km you arravie to a T- junction. Take right, continue
through first one bend to the left, then one to the right. After
a short drive you pass a dry river bed on your left that looks
more like a big green field many times of the season. The
road turns slightly to the left and then right while it becomes
surrounded with trees and goes slightly up. Just there two
smaller roads turn in to the left, the first with a closed small
gate, the second with a larger gate (normally opened). On the
right side of the road it is a large lay-bay, park here. Walk
back, turn right over a wire fence just where it attaches a
stone wall (a road turns right shortly after with signpost
Agriturismo). Follow the stone wall and then continue along
the track about 1 km. A beautiful place, exelent climbing near
the see. Except the quite long walk it is a area ideal for families
with children and the crag offers enough climing for many
day's. The cave is the first crag you will come to. Further down
the first of tree boulted areas to your left behind some thicket.
P
1
5
4
9
7,
8
6
10,
11
12,
13
1. Un tio Conflictiu 7a
2. Wall and Bulge 7c+
3. ? 7c+
4. Imagine 7c
5. TNT 8a
6. Dingo 7c+
7. Tufa Big 7b+
8. Sand bag 7b+
9. Project 7a+
10. Delicatessan ?
11. Delicatessan right hand 7b
12. Right-hand roof 1 7a
13. Right-hand roof 2 7b
Porto Cristo
Calas de
Mallorca
P
M
V
4
0
1
-
4
coronn.com
22.1. Cala Magraner
South
20 m.
8
10 13
Direction
Manacor
P
Stone wall
Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca".
After about 8 km you arravie to a T- junction. Take right,
continue through first one bend to the left, then one to the
right. After a short drive you pass a dry river bed on your
left that looks more like a big green field many times of the
season. The road turns slightly to the left and then right
while it becomes surrounded with trees and goes slightly
up. Just there two smaller roads turn in to the left, the first
with a closed small gate, the second with a larger gate
(normally opened). On the right side of the road it is a large
lay-bay, park here. Walk back, turn right over a wire fence
just where it attaches a stone wall (a road turns right shortly
after with signpost Agriturismo). Follow the stone wall and
then continue along the track about 1 km. A beautiful place,
exelent climbing near the see. Except the quite long walk
it is a area ideal for families with children and the crag offers
enough climing for many day's. The cave is the first crag
you will come to. Further down the first of tree boulted areas
to your left behind some thicket.
P
22 21
20
19
18
28 27 26
25
24
23
14
15
16
17 29
14. First wall 5
15. The crack 6a
16. Crack Eliminate 6a+
17. Al loro Manolo (top-rope) ?
18. Body Fatique 6c
19. Metal Fatique 7a+
20. Liadre de Somnis 6c
21. Retanuit 6a+
22. Sense Voler 6a
23. Diagonal Pockets 6a+
24. Tiny 6b
25. The big red stain 6c
26. Tootsie 6b+
27. Mou els Peus 6b+
28. Migueln el Travieso 6c
29. En pas Descanse 5+
Routes on the big block, from left to right;
grade 5, 6a, 5
Porto Cristo
Calas de
Mallorca
P
M
V
4
0
1
-
4
coronn.com
22.2. Cala Magraner
South
16 m.
Direction
Manacor
P
Stone wall
30
34
33
32 31
37
36
35
39
41
40
38
42
22.3. Cala Magraner
South
20 m.
Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca". After about 8 km you arravie to a T-
junction. Take right, continue through first one bend to the left, then one to the right. After a short
drive you pass a dry river bed on your left that looks more like a big green field many times of
the season. The road turns slightly to the left and then right while it becomes surrounded with
trees and goes slightly up. Just there two smaller roads turn in to the left, the first with a closed
small gate, the second with a larger gate (normally opened). On the right side of the road it is a
large lay-bay, park here. Walk back, turn right over a wire fence just where it attaches a stone
wall (a road turns right shortly after with signpost Agriturismo). Follow the stone wall and then
continue along the track about 1 km. A beautiful place, exelent climbing near the see. Except the
quite long walk it is a area ideal for families with children and the crag offers enough climing for
many day's. The cave is the first crag you will come to. Further down the first of tree boulted areas
to your left behind some thicket.
P
43
30. Cave left 7a+
31. Cave right 6c+
32. Sa Nyoscia 6a
33. Paramuero 5+
34. Herbofilia 4
35. Jardiners sense fronteres 3
36. Perell 4+
37. Pixotades per ses Galtes 6c+
38. Penta 6c+
39. Galiana mEngana 6c
40. Sa Sesta 6b+
41. Pipiricot 6b+
42. Wall and groove 5+
43. Florinotto 5+
coronn.com
Porto Cristo
Calas de
Mallorca
P
M
V
4
0
1
-
4
Direction
Manacor
P
Stone wall
Sea
46,
47
49
44
54
53
52
51
50
56 55
47
59 48
64
63
62
61
60
P
22.4. Cala Magraner
South
20 m.
Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca". After about 8 km you arravie to a T- junction.
Take right, continue through first one bend to the left, then one to the right. After a short drive you pass
a dry river bed on your left that looks more like a big green field many times of the season. The road
turns slightly to the left and then right while it becomes surrounded with trees and goes slightly up.
Just there two smaller roads turn in to the left, the first with a closed small gate, the second with a
larger gate (normally opened). On the right side of the road it is a large lay-bay, park here. Walk back,
turn right over a wire fence just where it attaches a stone wall (a road turns right shortly after with
signpost Agriturismo). Follow the stone wall and then continue along the track about 1 km. A beautiful
place, exelent climbing near the see. Except the quite long walk it is a area ideal for families with
children and the crag offers enough climing for many day's. The cave is the first crag you will come
to. Further down the first of tree boulted areas to your left behind some thicket.
45
57
58
44. Crack 6a
45. Reachy 6b+
46. Only you 6c+
47. The Juggy one 5+
48. Joc de Mans 7a
49. Dangerous 6b
50. Staples 6a+
51. Xorics 6b
52. Repusai 6a
53. Beachcomber 6a
54. Ses Tres Maries 6a+
55. Asqu 6a
56. Asulla 6b+
57. Lamo de Baltix menvia 6a
58. Flotsam 5+
59. Jetsam ?
60. Elvigilant de la Platja 4
61. Clsica 5
62. Ses Panxetes 6a
63. Pilla, Pilla 5+
64. The final line 6b+
Porto Cristo
Calas de
Mallorca
P
M
V
4
0
1
-
4
coronn.com
Direction
Manacor
P
Stone wall
Drive to Felanitx and then towards Santanyi. After about 3 km, turn left
where a signpost gives you "Castell de Sanctueri". Drive up to the
castle and park there. To the right of the steps to the castle is a steep
track going down, follow that to the crag.
Route number 1 and 2 ain't illustrated on this TOPO, but you pass
them on your walk down to the "main" crag.
3,
4
1,2
8
7
6
5
9
10
12
13,
14
23. Castell de Santueri
South-East, East
30 m.
Direction
Manacor
Direction
Santanyi
11
22 21
20
19
17,
18
16
15
1. ? ?
2. ? ?
3. Santueri 7c
4. Pixes 8a
5. Masaix 7c+
6. Apolis 7b+
7. Ra 7c
8. Escuni Ezquera 7b
9. Es Castell 7b
10. Qwin Tomas 6c
11. Munchescal 7a+
12. Picha Boba 8a
13. Antrax 8a
14. Sex Cannabis 7b, 8a
15. Capitn 8a, 8b
16. Matrix 8a+, 8b+, 8c
17. Vine, Vine 7b+
18. De Deb 7c+
19. 18 de Julio 8a+
20. Can Moix 7a+, 8a
21. Sonrisa Vertical 7b
22. Cuaran 8b
Felanitx
C
7
1
4
P
M
512
P
M
V
4
0
1
-
6
coronn.com
BARCELONA
Sabadell
Terrassa
Manresa
Igualada
Castelloli
Esparreguera
Vilafranca
del Peneds
Granollers
Direction
Tarragona
Montserrat
Drive from Barcelona in the
direction of Monserrat on the
A2 highway.
To reach the areas of Gorros,
Sant Benet and the Campsite,
turn of at exit 576.
To reach Collobat, which is the
starting point for Can Jorba and
Vinya Nova, use exit 575.
To reach Agulles and Vermell,
use exit 572.
To reach Frares, Ecos and
Parets, choose
exit 572 (Massana) or
exit 576 (Monistrol).
C32
A2
E15
E
9
C
5
5
C
3
7
C
1
5
E
1
5
C
3
2
Montserrat
Vinya Nova
Collbat
Can Maana
El Bruc del Mig
Monestir de Montserrat
El Bruc residencial
Can Jorba
Direction
Lleida
Direction
Barcelona
Direction
Martor
Direction
Manresa
Direction
Manresa
Agulles
Vermell
Can Jorba
Ecos
Parets
Vinya Nova
Serrat dels monjos
St. Benet
Campsite
Gorros
Frares
Colonia Piug
St. Joan
1
2-4
5-6
7-10
22-25
14-15
16-17
20-21
11-13
35-40
41-45
46-49
50
51
53
52
54
55-58
61
59
60
62-65
66-67
68
El Bruc de Dalt
18-19
26-34
A
2
C
5
5
B
1
1
2
B
P
1
1
2
1
B
P
1101
B
P
1
1
0
1
B
1
1
1
Monistrol de
Montserrat
coronn.com
1. Distncia europea 7a 16. Kokodrilo 6b+
2. Autiloff 6b 17. Pato mareado 6b
3. ? 7a 18. Cerdilandia 6c
4. Patufet 6b 19. ? 6b+
5. Patufet variant 6a 20. Es 3 porquets ?
6. Sensaci de buit 6c 21. Ay, que calor 6b+
7. Kendermore 6b 22. Variant of route 21. 6c
8. Funt Fireforge 6a 23. Los viejos pellejos 7b
9. El enano 7a 24. Spirit of freedom 7b+
10. J'ai perdu..... 6b+ 25. Avu si, avu no 7b+
11. Deixalles, no grcies 5+ 26. ? ?
12. Kokinski 6a 27. Fen safr 7c
13. Kokorota 6b 28. Un article per la fama 6a+
14. Picantus ineptus 7a 29. Golimbrea 6b
15. Me abruma.... 7a 30. Cantimpal 6b+
1
3,
4,
5
2
4
3
8,9,10
7
6
10
9
17,18,
19,20
21
12 11
15,
16
14
13
16
19
18
17
22
30
29
28
27
26
25
24
23
Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway.
Turn of at exit 576.
On the way to Monistir from Monistrol de Montserrat you will pass
this crag. Park at a lay-bay somewhere near the crag.
This crag is bolted and the short routes offer pleasant sport climbing.
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Direction
Manresa
Colonia Piug
Monestir
Direction
Barcelona
1. Colonia Piug Can Mascle
North, North-East
20 m.
coronn.com
Camping Direction
Monestir
Hermita
Sant Miquel
Direction
Sant Joan
Boulder
3
2 4
Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway, turn of at exit 576.
Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue to the Monestir (Montserrat
monastery). Park at the big car park before the bars (in the low seasons it might be possible to
continue to the monastery). Pass the monastery and continue along a small road on the opposite
side of the gully in the direction of the campsite. Before you reach the campsite turn right onto a footpath leading to the crag. The routes in
this area have become polished with use so don't be disappointed if a grade 6 feels more like a 7b. All the routes are bolted.
1
6
5
4 3
2
8
7 9
10
13
11
12
1. Espermicida ? 10. Takashi 6a+
2. Ratpenat 5 11. Magnum 6b
3. X-13 5 12. Moviment dad 6c
4. Clara 5 13. Fisura dels debutants 5
5. Pique-Longue 5 14. ? ?
6. Marcelolandia 6b 15. Esfera luminosa 4
7. Media hora ms contigo 5+ 16. Ester 5
8. Alucina carabina 6a 17. Esfera de cristal 6b
9. Isumoto 6c 18. Pitufina 7a
19
18 17
16
15
14
21
20
19. Shangai surprise 5
20. Me dais asco todos 5
21. Traficants de somnis 4+
2. La Granote
North, North-East
3. Frai Gar
North, North-East
40 m.
coronn.com
Camping
Direction
Monestir
Hermita
Sant Miquel
Direction
Sant Joan
Boulder
3
2 4
1
2 3,4
4
5
6
1. Pasa capa la llastra zapastra 6a+
2. Travesera de dalt 6c
2b. Nmero 82 6b
3. Raticulin 6b
4. La casa de los Martnez 6a+
5. Rafaela 6b
6. Alta tensin 5
2b
Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2
highway, turn of at exit 576.
Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue
to the Monestir (Montserrat monastery). Park at the big car park
before the bars (in the low seasons it might be possible to continue
to the monastery). Pass the monastery and continue along a
small road on the opposite side of the gully in the direction of the
campsite. Before you reach the campsite turn right onto a footpath
leading to the crag. The routes in this area have become polished
with use so don't be disappointed if a grade 6 feels more like a
7b. All the routes are bolted.
4. La Rampingui
North, North-East
50 m.
coronn.com
Drive from Barcelona in the direction of
Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach
the Can Jorba, and the El Fara crag
drive to El Castell from El Bruc de Mig.
Park and walk along the track to the
crag. You can also drive to the small
village of Can Jorba, continue through
the village and drive along the small
road to a point where you are directly
under the crag. Park and walk to the
crag.
1. Estrany Mirall Llinar MD+/Ae
2. Anglada-Guillamn MD/A2
3. Temple del Sol MD-
4. Via Normal A1
III
Ae
IV
V
V
IV
V
A2
V
IV
III
IV
V
Ae
IV+
6a
6c
V
V-
IV
Ae
V+
Ae
3
2
1
4
A1
IV
The other side
5.
6.
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sector Frares
Can Jobra
El Castell
7.
9.
8.
V+
5. El Fara
South, South-East
150 m.
coronn.com
El Fara, crag 5.
5.
6.
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sector Frares
Can Jobra
El Castell
1. Via Torras -Nubiola IV+
7.
8.
9.
10.
Drive from Barcelona in the direction
of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To
reach the Can Jorba, and the L'Agulla
de la tempestat crag drive to El Castell
from El Bruc de Mig. Park and walk
along the track to the crag. You can
also drive to the small village of Can
Jorba, continue through the village and
drive along the small road to a point
where you are directly under the crag.
Park and walk to the crag.
6. LAgulla de la Tempestat
North, North-East
40 m.
coronn.com
reach the Can Jorba, and the Agulla
del senglar crag drive to El Castell from
El Bruc de Mig. Park and walk along
the track to the crag.
About 50 metres to the left of this crag
you will find the L'Agulla de la Proa
tower, marked as number 8 on the map.
The route on this crag is called Via
Torras-Nubiola and the first pitch is
graded IV+, the second pitch IV and
the last pitch IV.
5.
6.
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sector Frares
Can Jobra
El Castell
7.
1
7,8
6
5
4
3
2
8
10
9
12 11
17
16
14,15
13
15
1. Marijuana de porrera 6a
2. Fish 7b
3. Ruch 7c
4. Discordia 7a+
5. Viatge imaginari 8a
6. Correcamins 6b
7. Variante 7a+
8. Ben petat 7c+
9. Somni diablic 8a
10. Sprint final 8a
11. Same 7b
12. ? 7a+
13. Angle invers 7c+
14. Accs 7a
15. Mnim esfor 8a
16. Lourdes 8b
17. Un poco loco 8b
8.
9.
10.
7. Agulla del Senglar
8. La Proa
South
60 m.
coronn.com
the sector Can Jorba, and the Agulla
del senglar crag, drive to El Castell from
El Bruc de Mig. Park and walk along
the track to the crag. You will find the
crag alongside the track.
5.
6.
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sector Frares
Can Jobra
El Castell
7.
8.
9.
1
2
3
IV
IV, A1
IV,V
IV
V
IV,IV+
V+
IV,V
IV+
V+
IV,V
A3
A1,V
III, IV
1. Via de les margarides
2. Via Ecolgica
3. Via Torras-Nubiola
10.
9. LAgulla del Castell
South
50 m.
coronn.com
5.
6.
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sector Frares
Can Jobra
El Castell
7.
8.
9.
10.
1. Via gede
2. Varinte
1,2
V
A1
IV
A1
V+
VI
V
A1
V
2
reach the Can Jorba, and the L'Agulla
fina crag drive to El Castell from El Bruc
de Mig. Park and walk along the track
to the crag. You will pass La Proa (crag
8.) and L'Agulla del senglar (crag 7.),
then you will reach this crag.
10. LAgulla Fina
South
100 m.
coronn.com
Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the
Can Jorba and these crags turn of the highway
at exit 572. Continue in the direction of the
Monestir de Montserrat to a point where you
will be just under the crags. Park at a lay-bay
and find the track that leads to the left side
of the crags, at a T-junction, turn right to
reach the crags.
IV
V
III,IV
III
III
III
A1
6.
5.
3.
4.
1.
2.
1. Via gede
2. Paret est
3. Via bages
4. Via normal
5. Via normal
6. Via doble corda
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Can Jobra
9.
10.
11.
12. 13.
Direction
Monestir
Direction
Can Maana
14.
11. LAgulla Vista
12. LAgulla del cor de be
13. LAgulla del Miracle
South
25 m.
coronn.com
IV
V
IV
III
IV
A1
A1
A0
III+
1.
2.
III
A1
A2
A2
A1
III
Northeast side
3.
1. Via Aresta Brucs
2. Via normal
3. Via Torras-Nubiola
A2 highway. To reach the Can
Jorba and these crags turn of
the highway at exit 572.
Continue in the direction of the
Monestir de Montserrat to a
point where you will be just
under the crags. Park at a lay-
bay and find the track that leads
to the left side of the crags, at
a T-junction, turn left to reach
the La vella crag, located to the
left of the track after the track
has turned from south to east.
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Can Jobra
Direction
El Castell
11.
12. 13.
Direction
Monestir
Direction
Can Maana
14.
15.
14. La Vella
South and North-East
45 m.
coronn.com
North side
1.
2.
IV
III,IV
A1
A2
1. Via normal
2. Via Ces
the Can Jorba and these crags turn of
the highway at exit 572. Continue in the
direction of the Monestir de Montserrat
to a point where you will be just under
the crags. Park at a lay-bay and find the
track that leads to the left side of the
crags, at a T-junction, turn left, pass the
La vella crag, pass a T-junction where
a track turns to the left and after this you
will find this distinctive crag on your right.
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Can Jobra
Direction
El Castell
9.
10.
11.
12. 13.
Direction
Monestir
Direction
Can Maana
14.
15.
17.
16.
15. El Cilindre
North, North-West
55 m.
coronn.com
1.
IV
IV+
V
IV+
II,III
reach the Can Jorba sector, and the El
Plecs del Llibre crag drive to the village
Can Jorba from El Bruc de Mig. Park
and walk along the track to the crag.
5.
6.
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sector Frares
Can Jobra
El Castell
7.
8.
9.
10.
III
IV
IV+
III
II
III
V
A2
IV
IV
IV+
V
IV
III+
III,IV
IV
IV
V
IV
IV+
IV+
IV
IV
IV,IV+
A2
IV
IV
V
A1
V
IV,IV+
A1
IV+
V,V+
IV+
V
A0
IV+
IV
A0
V
III,IV
1.
2.
5.
4.
3.
1. Via Normal
2. Aresta del Sol
3. Aresta del Bellver
4. Aresta Tobogan
5. Via Arcarons
16.
14.
15.
17.
21.
16.1. Els Plecs del Llibre
South
220 m.
coronn.com
reach the Can Jorba sector, and the El
Plecs del Llibre crag drive to the village
1
3
III
III
IV
IV+
A2
A1
IV,V
III+
A1
2
IV
A1
A1
IV+
IV+
A1,IV
IV+
A1
V+
IV+
IV
V
IV+,V
IV
IV+,V
V+
V
IV+,V
IV+
IV
A1,IV
IV
IV
IV
IV+
A2e
1. Via Vendrell
2. Via Rosaura
3. Via Trilogi
IV,IV+
IV+,V
5.
6.
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sector Frares
Can Jobra
El Castell
7.
8.
9.
10.
16.
14.
15.
17.
21.
16.2. Els Plecs del Llibre
South
220 m.
coronn.com
reach the Can Jorba sector, and the
La Cajoleta crag drive to the village
1
3
2
III
III
III
IV
IV IV
IV
V
IV
IV
III
III
IV
IV
III
III
IV
V
A1
V
A1
A0
1. Via Aresta Brucs
2. Via "Rayo"
3. Via Vargas-jov
5.
6.
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sector Frares
Can Jobra
El Castell
16.
14.
15.
17.
18.
17. La Cajoleta
South
155 m.
coronn.com
reach the Can Jorba, and the La roca
dels Aurons crag drive to the village
You will pass the La Cajoleta crag and
Els plecs del Llibre crag.
You can also walk along the track from
the other side of the mountain, see
approach to crag 11,12,13,14.
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sector Frares
Can Jobra
El Castell
16.
14.
15.
17.
IV
IV
IV
III
A1
III
II
III
2
1
II
V
V-
V
IV
III-
3
Southeast side
1. Via Bages
2. Aresta nord
3. Via normal
18.
19.
20.
18. La Roca dels Aurons
South
65 m.
coronn.com
IV+
V
II
A1e
IV+
A1e
V
A1e
IV+
V
V,A0
IV
IV+
IV+,V
IV+
IV+
V
IV,IV+
V
IV,IV+
II
IV+
IV
IV+
V
V+
V
V+
IV
IV
IV
V
V
V+
V
IV
IV
V
A1
III
A2
A1
A2
A1
V
A2
V
A2
A3,VI
A1
V
A2,V+
1
2
3
1. Via Tim
2. Dedre Pericman
3. L'Esper de L'Alba
the Can Jorba sector, and these crags
turn of the highway at exit 572. Continue
in the direction of the Monestir de
Montserrat to a point where you are directly
under the crag. Park at a lay-bay and find
the track. In a T-junction, turn left to reach
the crags.
15.
18.
19.
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Can Jobra
11.
12. 13.
Direction
Monestir
Direction
Can Maana
14.
20.
19. Roques del Salt de la Nina
North
220 m.
coronn.com
A2 highway. To reach the Can
Jorba sector and the crags turn
of the highway at exit 572.
Continue in the direction of the
Monestir de Montserrat to a
point where you are directly
under the crag. Park at a lay-
bay and find the track. In a T-
junction, turn left to reach the
crags.
Route number 2, Via normal,
is on the south side of La
Salamandra and is graded III,
III, III+ and the last 20 metres
is graded II.
Picture: Salamandra Atra
15.
18.
19.
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Can Jobra
Direction
Monestir
Direction
Can Maana
14.
III
V,VI
A2
V
A2
V
V
VI
VI
A1
V
IV
IV
III
III,IV
1. Via Magda
2. Via normal (not on the TOPO
20.
1
21.
20. La Salamandra
North
200 m.
coronn.com
III
IV
IV,IV+
IV+
IV,IV+
III
V
V
IV+,V
V,A1
IV,V
V,A1
A1,V
1
1. Via de la graviola bella
reach the Can Jorba, and the El
Montgrs crag drive to the Can Jorba
village from El Bruc de Mig. Park and
walk along the track to the crag. You
will pass the El Plecs del Llibre crags.
Continue and take the first track to the
left. When you reach a T-junction, keep
left and finally to the left again to reach
the crag.
5.
6.
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sector Frares
Can Jobra
El Castell
7.
8.
9.
10.
16.
14.
15.
17.
21.
21. El Montgrs
North
240 m.
coronn.com
the Frares sector, choose exit 572
(Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow
the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat
and just before you reach the small
village of Can Maana you should turn
right onto a smaller road signposted to
Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue
on this road as far as you are allowed
to drive. Walk to the mountains on the
road that soon becomes a track. Pass
the track that leads down to El Miracle
and at the T-junction, turn right to reach
this crag.
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
22.
23.
12.
11.
II
III
III
III
III
III
III
IV+
1
2
III
IV+
3
1. Via Normal, L'Anec
2. Via Normal, La sense nome
3. Via Normal, LA BOLETA
25.
24.
27.
26.
22. LAgulla Sense Nom
South
110 m.
23.1. La Boleta del Portella estret
South
20 m.
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
22.
23.
12.
11.
25.
24.
27.
26.
III
IV
IV
III
A1
IV+
A1
A0,V
V+
IV+
V
IV+
A1
VI
A2
A1e
A1e
A1e
A2e
A1e
A1e,A2e
V
IV
III,IV
1
2
1. Via SAME
2. Via Iglesias-Torres Casanovas
this crag.
23.2. La Boleta del Portella Estret
North
165 m.
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
A2e
IV
IV
A1e
3
2
1
III
III,IV
IV
III
4
1. Del collet
2. G.E.D.L
3. Via normal
4. Via aresta brucs
this crag.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
22.
23.
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
25.
24.
26.
27-28.
24. LAgulla Passola
North
40 m.
25. El Gendarme
North-West
25 m.
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
22.
23.
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
25.
24.
26.
27-28.
V
III
A2e
IV
A1e
III
1
1. Via normal
29.
this crag.
26. La Nina
North
35 m.
coronn.com
A1
V,A1
IV+
V,V+
V
IV+
A1
A2
V,V+
V,A0
IV,V
III,IV
III
V,V+
V
V+,VI
V+
A2
A2,A3
A1
III,IV
1. Via Anglada-Cerd
2. Via CADE, L'Agulla del centenar
1 2
and at the T-junction, leave the track
and head for the crag.
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
22.
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
25.
24.
26.
27-28.
29.
30.
27. La Boleta Foradada
28. LAgulla del Centenar
North
150 m.
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
26.
27-28.
29.
III A1,IV
III,IV
A1
IV
IV
V+
A0e
V
A1e,A2
A1e
A1e
V
A2
V+
A1e
A1,V
A1,V
IV
IV+,A0
IV
IV
A1e
IV
III
III
V
IV,V
1
2
1. Via GAM
2. Via Carrizosa-Colt
30.
31.
and at the T-junction, turn left and walk
100 metres and finally leave the track
29. El Bisbe
North
300 m.
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
26.
27-28.
29.
30.
III
V
A1
V
V+
V,A1
A1
IV+
V
A1
V
A1
IV+
V
V
V
A
V
IV
1
1. Via Veni, Vidi, Vinci
31.
32.
50.
150 metres and finally leave the track
30. La Miranda del Lloro
North
215 m.
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
26.
27-28.
29.
30.
A2
A2
A1,A2
V
IV,IV+
1
1. Via L'Asitica
31.
32.
50.
approximately 200 metres and then
finally leave the track and head for the
crag.
31. LAsitica
North
125 m.
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
26.
27-28.
29.
30.
31.
III
IV
A2e
A2
IV
A1
A1e
A2
II
III
IV
A2
A2
V
IV+
IV
IV
IV,IV+
IV
A0
IV
III
III
III
IV
IV
A1
A2e
A2e
III
IV
1
4
2
The east side
1. Via Iglesias-roca-Sanchez
2. Via per sota l'ala
3. Via normal
4.Via cerd
32.
and at the T-junction, turn right to find
the track that leads to the area with
towers. At the two following T-junctions,
turn left and when the track changes
direction from Northeast to South, follow
the bend and you will find the crag.
32.1. El Lloro
75 m.
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
26.
27-28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
II,III
1
III
IV
IV+
V
II
IV
A2
A2e
A1e
A1e
IV
1. Via Iglesias-Casanovas
33.
32.2. El Lloro
South
120 m.
coronn.com
3.Via normal, on the other side, III,IV
IV+
IV
IV
IV+
V
IV
III
III
V+
A1
IV
III
III
A1e
A0
IV
IV
1
2
1. Via Anglada-Vergs
2. Via sor Angustias
3. Via normal
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
26.
27-28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
33. La Monja
South
130 m.
coronn.com
1
2
A1
IV
V
V+
A2
III,IV
IV
III,IV
A2
A1
A2
V
IV,V
3
4
1. Via navarro-estorach
2. Xemeneia Barriere
3. Via torras-nubiola
4. Via normal
towers. At the two following T-junctions
keep left. After 5-10 minutes the track
changes direction from Northeast to
South, follow the bend and you will find
the crag on your left.
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
44.
43.
34. El Tub i la Patata
All points of the compass
40 m.
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
IV
A1
V
V
IV
III
A2,IV
V
IV
III
III,IV
IV+
A1
2
1
IV+
A1e
IV
3
South side
1. Via paret Est
2. Via aresta Nord
3. Via aresta Brucs
36.
37.
keep left and after the second T-junction
you will find the crag to your right.
35. La Nana
40 m.
coronn.com
East side
South side
III
V+
IV
IV
III
III
III
III
IV+
IV+
IV+
V
III+
V
1
2
1. Via Anglada-Auqu
2. Via Pirenaica
3. Via Normal
3
you will find the crag to your right if you
leave the track and walk in the direction
of this crag on a smaller track.
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
36. La Mamelluda
North, South and East
60 m.
coronn.com
II
IV
III
1
1. Via Aresta Nord
you will find the crag to your right after
having left the main track in the direction
of the crag.
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
40.
39.
37. LAgulla Amagada
North
45 m.
coronn.com
III
IV,V
IV+
IV,V
IV
IV,V
V+
V
1
2
1. Via Normal
2. Via Aresta Brucs
towers. At the following T-junction, hold
left and in the next one, walk straight
forward. You will find the crag to your
left after having left the main track in
the direction of the crag.
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
40.
39.
42. 41.
38. La Caputxa
North and East
45 m.
coronn.com
III
III
III,IV+
V
III
III,IV
II
1
1. Via Aresta Brucs
2. Via Aresta dels Brucs
III
IV
A2e
III
III+
III
A1e
2
towers. At the following T-junction, hold
left and in the next one, walk straight
forward. You will find the crags to your
left after having left the main track in
the direction of the crag.
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
40.
39.
42.
41.
39. La Pirmide
South
90 m.
40. El Cap den Calventus
South
50 m.
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
34.
35.
36.
III,IV
III,IV
IV
IV+
IV
III
III
V
A1e
1
2
1. Via Aresta Brucs, Agulla sense nom
2. Via Aresta Brucs, L'Agulla de la grip
41.
40.
39.
37.
38.
42.
44.
43.
the crag on your right after having left
the main track in the direction of the
crags.
41. Agulla Sensa Nom
42..1. LAgulla de la Grip
65 m.
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
34.
35.
36.
41.
40.
39.
37.
38.
42.
IV+
IV-
III
III
IV+
III
V-
1
1. Via Atxs
44.
43.
the crag on your right after having left
the main track in the direction of the
crags.
42.2. L'Agulla de la Grip
West
105 m.
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
34.
35.
36.
41.
42.
44.
43.
IV
1
IV
IV
IV
IV
1. Via Bresgom
45.
South, follow the bend and turn left in
the next T-junction. You will find the
crag on the right side of the track.
43. LAgulla Aina
South
70 m.
coronn.com
South side
East side
North side
IV
V+
V
V+
III
III
V
V
IV
III
IV
III
V
V+
IV
A1e
A1e
IV
V
V,V+
V
IV
IV+
IV
V
IV
V
V
IV+
V
A1
IV,V
V+
V
IV
V
IV+
III
1
2
3
4
1. Via Aresta Brucs
2. Via Bresgom
3. Via Same
4. Via Normal
El dit inferior
South, follow the bend and continue
straight ahead in the next T-junction.
You will find the crag on the left side
of the track.
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
34.
35.
41.
42.
44.
43.
45.
44. El Dit
105 m.
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
34.
35.
41.
42.
44.
43.
45.
III,IV
1
2
III
III+
III
III
IV
III
IV
V
1. Via Auqu Muoz
2. Via Aresta Brucs
47.
Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the
A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572
(Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for
Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the
small village of Can Maana you should turn right onto a
smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada.
Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive.
Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a
track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at
the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the
area with towers. At the two following T-junctions keep
left. After 5-10 minutes the track changes direction from
Northeast to South, follow the bend and continue straight
ahead in the next T-junction. You will find the crags on
your left after having left the main track in the direction of
the crags.
45. LAgulla Fcil
46. El Ditet
South
115 m.
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
34.
35.
41.
42.
44.
43.
45.
III
IV
IV+
A1
A2
A2e
V
IV+
A1,A0
V-
V
V,A0
A2e
V-
47.
48.
49.
1. Via Bages
2. Dedre Oest
1
2
(Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for
Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the
small village of Can Maana you should turn right onto a
smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada.
Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a
track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and
at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to
the area with towers. At the two following T-junctions keep
left. After 5-10 minutes the track changes direction from
Northeast to South, follow the bend and turn left in the
next T-junction. Afetr approximately 150 metres you will
find the crag after havin left the main track in the direction
of the crag.
47. El Bacall
North, East
35 m.
coronn.com
South side
V
VI-
V
V+
A1e,V
A2,A1,V
A1
V+
A1
V
1
2
1. Via G.E.D.E
2. Via Normal
Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on
the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose
exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the
signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before
you reach the small village of Can Maana you should
turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de
Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you
are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the
road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that
leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn
right to find the track that leads to the area with towers.
At the two following T-junctions keep left. After 5-10
minutes the track changes direction from Northeast to
South, follow the bend and continue straight forward
in the next T-junction. Continue to the next T-junction
where the right track leads to Refugie Vicen Barbe
and the left one in the direction of Coll de Port. Turn
left, pass the crag El Bitllot on your right and soon you
will reach this crag on the left side of the track.
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
41.
42.
44.
43.
45.
47.
48.
49.
50.
48. LAgulla Gran del Pas del Prncep
North, South
140 m.
III
IV
IV+
II
IV
A1
IV
IV
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
41.
42.
44.
43.
45.
47.
48.
49.
IV
IV
A1
1
1. Via Normal
50.
(Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost
for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the
small village of Can Maana you should turn right onto
a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada.
Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes
a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and
at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to
the area with towers. At the two following T-junctions
keep left. After 5-10 minutes the track changes direction
from Northeast to South, follow the bend and continue
straight forward in the next T-junction. Continue to the
next T-junction where the right track leads to Refugie
Vicen Barbe and the left one in the direction of Coll de
Port. Turn left and you will find the crag on your right.
49. El Bitllot
North-East
30 m.
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Miracle
12.
11.
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
41.
42.
44.
43.
45.
47.
48.
49.
50.
1
III
IV
IV
A1
A1
A1e
A1e
V
A2
A
A2
A1e
A1
1. Via Anglada-Cerd
(Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost
for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the
small village of Can Maana you should turn right onto
a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada.
Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes
a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and
at the T-junction, turn right in the direction of Coll de Port.
At the crest, in the T-junction, turn right to find your way
to the crag.
50. El Frare Gros
South
250 m.
coronn.com
22.
AMiranda de les Agulles
52.
39.
56.
54.
53.
57.
58.
55.
51.
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
Can Maana
Direction
El Miracle
Collet de Guir
Direction
El bruc de dalt
L'Era dels
Pallers
the Agulles sector, turn of the highway
at exit 572. From the village El Bruc de
dalt you have to find a road in the
direction of the L'Era dels Pallers. Drive
as far as you are allowed to drive. Park
and continue in the same direction to
find this crag.
A2
1
V
IV
III
IV+
III
5
4
3
2
6
1. Per la Nansa
2. Via Normal
3. ? 6b
4. ? 6c
5. ? 6c
6. ? 7a
51. El Gerro
30 m. Two Multi-pitch routes, 50 m.
coronn.com
22.
52.
39.
56.
54.
53.
57.
58.
55.
51.
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
Can Maana
Direction
El Miracle
Collet de Guir
Direction
El bruc de dalt
L'Era dels
Pallers
A2 highway. To reach the Agulles sector, use exit 572.
From the village El Bruc de dalt you have to find a road
in the direction of the L'Era dels Pallers. The road turns
sharp two times to the left and after that, in a bend to the
right, a smaller road turns of to the left. Take that one and
continue as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk along
the track in the direction of the Rifugi Vicen Barbe and
after approximately 100 metres you will find the crag after
having left the main track in the direction of the crag.
1
2
3
IV
IV
IV
6a
6a
III
1. Cade
2. Capeta Torres
3. Ramonage
52. Miranda de la Portella
105 m.
coronn.com
22.
52.
39.
56.
54.
53.
57.
58.
55.
51.
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
Can Maana
Direction
El Miracle
Collet de Guir
Direction
El bruc de dalt
L'Era dels
Pallers
A2 highway, to reach Frares, choose exit 572 (Massana)
or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow signpost for Monestir de
Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of
Can Maana you should turn right onto a smaller road
signposted for Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue along
this road and when it divides into two take the left fork.
Park when you reach a T-junction and follow the track
from there to this particular sector. Take the first track to
the left and follow that for approximately 200 meteres and
you will find the crag on your left.
1
3
4
2
III
IV
V+
6a
III
6b
III
III
IV
III
IV
1. Via aresta Brucs
2. Via Normal
3. Tot el temps del mn
4. Via Aresta nord
53. LAgulla del Sol Ponent
35 m.
coronn.com
22.
52.
39.
56.
54.
53.
57.
58.
55.
51.
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
Can Maana
Direction
El Miracle
Collet de Guir
Direction
El bruc de dalt
L'Era dels
Pallers
1
3
2
7
5,6
4
6
IV
V
V
V
V
V+
A1
IV
A1,IV
IV+
IV
A2
V
IV
III
IV
VI
IV+
A2
A2
Ae
V
A0
A1
V+
A2
Ae
IV+
IV
A1
V+
A2
V
Ae
V+
A1
V+
A0
VI
V
1. Esper nord
2. Canal del Ninet
3. Grismil
4. Barrufets
5. Ven-Suri-Ven
6. Qumics
7. ?
8. Torres Nubiola
8
?
from there to this particular sector. Take the first track to
the left and follow that for approximately 400 meteres and
you will find the crag on your left.
54. La Bandareta
165 m.
coronn.com
22.
52.
39.
56.
54.
53.
57.
58.
55.
51.
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
Can Maana
Direction
El Miracle
Collet de Guir
Direction
El bruc de dalt
L'Era dels
Pallers
V+
V+
6a+
V+
6a
6a
7a
6b
7a
6b
V+
6a+
V+
IV+
1
6
5
4
3
2
1. Esper dels nvols
2. Edelweis Equipada
3. Lobo estepario
4. Bola de drac
5. Agradable sobremesa con una japonesa
6. Closa-Aznar
from there to this particular sector. Follow the track that
leads to the Refugi Vicent Barbe and at the T-junction
after the Refugi you turn left. The second smaller track
to the left leads to this crag.
55. Dumbo
105 m.
coronn.com
22.
52.
39.
56.
54.
53.
57.
58.
55.
51.
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
Can Maana
Direction
El Miracle
Collet de Guir
Direction
El bruc de dalt
L'Era dels
Pallers
V V
V
IV+
A1
IV+
6a
IV+
IV+
6a
A2
A1
1
3
2
V
V
V
A1
6a
6a
6a
6a
IV
IV
A2
A2
A1,V
III
8
7
6 5
4
1. Nria
2. Santacana
3. Via Normal
4. Sidharta
5. Santboiana
6. Argonautes
7. Enigmes del temps
8. Original
leads to the Refugi Vicent Barbe and at the T-junction you
reach before the Refugi you turn left and continues for
about 200 metres. You will find the crag on the right side
of the track.
56. La Bola de la Partio
85 m.
coronn.com
22.
52.
39.
56.
54.
53.
57.
58.
55.
51.
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
Can Maana
Direction
El Miracle
Collet de Guir
Direction
El bruc de dalt
L'Era dels
Pallers
6a
V+
A1
A1,IV
V
IV+ V
A2
6b
V
6a
V+
V+
A0
III
6a
Ae
6a
6c
V
6a
6b
IV+
V
V+
IV
V+
A2
V
6a
V
A0 7a+
6a
A0
6b
V
6a+
IV
V
IV+
8a
1
2
5
4
3
8
7
6
9
10
12
11
1. Daniel
2. La tentaci viu a dalt
3. Hiwatta
4. Amor prohibit
5. Argent
6. Jumpin jack flash
7. Montpart
8. Grimpanautes
9. Garcia Vidal
10. Verdauguer Duran
11. Conchi
12. Desarreglos intestinales
leads to the Refugi Vicent Barbe and at the T-junction
signposted for the Refugi to the right you continue straight
forward for about 200 metres. You will find the crag to
the right having left the main track in the direction of the
crag.
57. La Miranda de la Bohigues
140 m.
coronn.com
22.
52.
39.
56.
54.
53.
57.
58.
55.
51.
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
Can Maana
Direction
El Miracle
Collet de Guir
Direction
El bruc de dalt
L'Era dels
Pallers
6a
A2
6a,A3
6a,A3
A2,V
IV
V
V+
A2
6a+
6a
IV
IV,A1
V,A2e
1
2
3
5
4
1. Via Aresta Brucs
2. Hay algo aqu que va mal
3. C.E.S
4. Via Aresta Brucs
5. Via Iglesias-Casanovas
Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2
highway, to reach Frares, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit
576 (Monistrol). Follow signpost for Monestir de Montserrat
and just before you reach the small village of Can Maana
you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted for
Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue along this road and
when it divides into two take the left fork. Park when you
reach a T-junction and follow the track from there to this
particular sector. Follow the track that leads to the Refugi
Vicent Barbe and at the T-junction you reach before the
Refugi you turn left and continues for about 250 metres. You
will find the crag on the left side of the track.
58. Bessones
130 m.
coronn.com
A2 highway. Turn of at exit 576.
Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and
continue to the T-junction, if you turn left you will reach
the Monestir (Montserrat monastery). Turn right and drive
in the direction of Monestir de St. Cecilia and the mountain
railway that takes tourists from the road to Mirador del
Moro.
After approximately 400 metres you will see the amazing
El Cavall Bernard crag to your left. It is the crag that
seems to lean out over your head. Park your car in a lay-
bay and walk directly towards the crag. Alternatively,
continue to the mountain railway, park in the car park
and follow the track back to the crag.
North,
northeast
side
Northwest
side
A2,V
IV
6b
A0
V
A0
V
A2+
6a
V+
V+
A3
V
V
A3
IV,A0
A1,V
IV+
IV
Ae
A1
V
IV V
IV+
V+
V
6a+
V
IV
V+ V
V
V+
A0,V
A2,V
V
V
V+
6a+
A0
Ae
6a+
6a+
Ae
6c
6c
6a
6b
1
2
5
4
3
8
6,7
7
1. Nanga Pardal
2. Puigmal
3. Gran Ilusin
4. Punsola-Reniu
5. Parsifal
6. Sabadell
7. Josep Barbar
8. Busquets-Mas-Balaguer
59.
61.
60.
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Direction
Monestir de
Motserrat
Direction
Monestir de
Motserrat
Direction
Serra de les
Lluernes
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
Direction
Monestir de St.
Cecilia
Hotel
59.1. El Cavall Bernard
260 m.
coronn.com
59.
61.
60.
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Direction
Monestir de
Motserrat
Direction
Monestir de
Motserrat
Direction
Serra de les
Lluernes
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
Direction
Monestir de St.
Cecilia
Hotel
V+
V
6c+
IV
V
A0
A2
6b
V
IV+
Ae
Ae
V
V+
A1
Ae
Ae
IV
A2 A2
7c
7b
V+
IV
A1
V
6b
South side
V+
V
V+
V-
IV
IV-
6c
IV
Ae,IV
IV+
Ae
A2,V
V+
IV
III
1
4
7a
11
7
8
5
9
1. Reina Montesinos
2. Via Normal
3. Gam
4. Aresta cavall mgic
5. Perez-Verges
6. Enigma de citamar
7. ?
8. Xavier Rabat
9. Anglada-Guillamn
10. Edelweis
11. Desiree
3
10
2,3
6
continue to the T-junction, if you turn left you will reach
the Monestir (Montserrat monastery). Turn right and drive
in the direction of Monestir de St. Cecilia and the mountain
railway that takes tourists from the road to Mirador del
Moro.
After approximately 400 metres you will see the amazing
El Cavall Bernard crag to your left. It is the crag that
seems to lean out over your head. Park your car in a lay-
bay and walk directly towards the crag. Alternatively,
continue to the mountain railway, park in the car park and
follow the track back to the crag. To reach the south side
of the tower you have to follow a track that leads up and
around the crag.
59.2. El Cavall Bernard
180 m.
coronn.com
59.
61.
60.
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Direction
Monestir de
Motserrat
Direction
Monestir de
Motserrat
Direction
Serra de les
Lluernes
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
Direction
Monestir de St.
Cecilia
Hotel
5b
A2,6c
Ae,6b
5c
5a
6a
5a
6a
4c
3
7a,6b
4
A1
6b
6b
7a
Ae
Ae,7a
Ae,6c
A1
5c
A1
A1,7a
A0,6c
5,A1
A1,5c
A1,5
A0,4
A1,5a
A1,5c
A4,5c
A2,5a
3
A3
3
4c
5c
A3,6c
3
3
4a
4c 4
5a
4c
5a
6a
A2
Ae
6b+
5a,A1
A2,5a
5a
A1
5b,A1
6a
5
5a
3
4
5a
6b
1
2
3
4
5
7
6
1. Alfanhui
2. Danza Vertical
3. Manyos Casanovas
4. TIM
5. Carrilet
6. Cobo-Pamplona
7. Anarquia vertical
A2 highway. Turn of at exit
576.
Turn left in the direction of
Monistrol de Montserrat and
continue to the T-junction, if
you turn left you will reach
the Monestir (Montserrat
monastery). Turn right and
drive in the direction of
Monestir de St. Cecilia and
the mountain railway that
takes tourists from the road
to Mirador del Moro.
Continue to the mountain
railway, park in the car park
and follow the track to the
crag.
60. Patriarquese
280 m.
coronn.com
1
2
6
26
22
19
20
16
11
23
25
24
21
12
13
14
3
4
5
7
15
10
17
18
9
8
4c
3
5c
5a
4b
4b
5a
4c
6a
5a
5a
4b
4c
4c
4b
5c
4c
6b
5c
6a
Ae,4
4c
5b
5b
Ae
5b
6a
6c
4
6a
3
4c
6b
5
5a
5a
4c
5b
4c
6a
Ae
5c
6a
4c
5a
A1
5c
5c
Ae
5a
6a
A1
5c
Ae
5c
6b
5a
5a
6b
6b
5a
5b
6a+
Ae
6a
6a
6a+
6a
5c
6a
6a
A2
6a
5c
5b
5c
Ae
5c
6a
4c
5b
4c+
4b
5c
6b
5c
7a+
5c
6c
6a
4c
5a
Ae
4c
5c
5c
Ae
5c
5c
6a
4
7a
5a
7a
7a+
4a
6b
5c+
6a+
A3
5c
5b
3
5a
4b
4b
5c
5c
A1
Ae
Ae
A4
Ae
A3
5c
A1
A2
5c+
A3
A5
A4
A4
5c
Ae
A3
A3
Ae
5b
5c
Ae
6a
5c
6b
A2
A2
Ae
Ae
Ae
5b
6a
4b
Ae
Ae
Ae
Ae
A2
A1
A3
A3
A3
A2
6c
Ae
A1
A2
5c
6b
Ae
5c
5c
A2
A2
A4
A3
6b
A2+
5c
5c+
4c
4b
6b
6a+
7a
5
5
4b
5
6a
5b
5b
5
5b
5b
5b
A1
4
6c
6b
5
6a
6b+
6a+
6c
6b
6b
6a
4c
6a+
7b
6c
6a
7a+
6a
61. Serrat del Moro Paret
360 m.
Route names and grades
on the next page
coronn.com
59.
61.
60.
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Direction
Monestir de
Motserrat
Direction
Monestir de
Motserrat
Direction
Serra de les
Lluernes
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
Direction
Monestir de St.
Cecilia
Hotel
1. Topo Toni 10. Barra Lliure 19. Anglada-Cerd
2. Fil. loxera 11. Pany Farrera 20. Jan-Cullell
3. A donde hostias... 12. Electric ladyland 21. Valentin Casanovas
4. Easy Ride 13. Frangancia tropical 22. Cade
5. Reencuentros 14. Terra i Mar 23. Olesa
6. Lotus 15. Antonio Garcia P. 24. Trollryggen90
7. Gesam 16. Antonio Machin 25. David Aprico
8. Mgic stones 17. Mirall Impenetrable 26. Nicolau-Freixas-Benito
9. Expsita Tudons 18. Viatge Sentimentale
of Monserrat on the A2 highway.
Turn of at exit 576.
Turn left in the direction of Monistrol
de Montserrat and continue to the
T-junction, if you turn left you will
reach the Monestir (Montserrat
monastery). Turn right and drive in
the direction of Monestir de St. Cecilia
and the mountain railway that takes
tourists from the road to Mirador del
Moro.
Continue to the mountain railway,
park in the car park and follow the
track to the crag.
61. Serrat del Moro Paret
Route names and grades
coronn.com
anodized, shrouded nose helps guard against accidental gate opening.
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V+
IV
V+
V
IV
V
V
V
V+
V+ V+
V+
6a
6a
IV
IV
1
4
3
2 5
11
10
9
8
7
6
12
1. Badalona
2. Snoopy
3. Del carles
4. Adri
5. Haus
6. ?
7. Histria Interminable
8. Sombra a la luz...
9. Free-light
10. Bella Easo
11. Opera Prima
12. Magic line
12
continue in the direction of Monestir de Montserrat. When
you arrive at the Monestir park and continue into the area.
You will find a mouantain railway that will take you to Pla
de les Tarntules. Follow the footpath to the West and
after a couple of minutes you will find crag 62 to 65 on
your left.
62.
63.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
Direction
St. Jeroni
64.
65.
66.
67.
68.
Sant Miquel
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
62. La Gorra Frgia
North and East
180 m.
IV
IV
III
IV
V
IV+
IV+
V
V V
IV
IV
IV
V
IV+
III
III
IV
IV
IV
V
IV
V
V+
coronn.com
5a
5b
5a
5c
5a
5c
5b
A1
4a
5c
5c
5a
A1
A1
5a
5a
6a+
6b+
A2
4c,A0
6a
4a
A2
4a
4c
4b
A1
A1
5a
4c
1
6
5
4
3
2
7
1. Purple haze
2. Wagner
3. Pisters
4. Sulfric
5. Pany-Farrera
6. Santaca-Gmez
7. GEDE
62.
63.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
Direction
St. Jeroni
64.
65.
66.
67.
68.
Sant Miquel
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
de les Tarntules. Alternatively, take a long walk and pass
sant Miquel (more than one hours walk). Follow the
footpath to the West and after a couple of minutes you
will find crag 62 to 65 on your left.
63. El Sentinella
North and East
125 m.
coronn.com
62.
63.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
Direction
St. Jeroni
64.
65.
66.
67.
68.
Sant Miquel
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
4c
4c
5b
2
3
2
2
3
3
4b
4b
4b
4c
5a
5b
5c
5c
6a
4c
5b
5a 4c
1
5
4 3
2
1. Carlos
2. Simon
3. Amistat d'estiu
4. Ignasi jorba
5. Mingo Arenas
Northeast side
de les Tarntules. Alternatively, take a long walk and pass
sant Miquel (more than one hours walk). Follow the
footpath to the West and after a couple of minutes you
will find crag 62 to 65 on your left.
64.1. La Madalena Superior
150 m.
coronn.com
62.
63.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
Direction
St. Jeroni
64.
65.
66.
67.
68.
Sant Miquel
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
East side
Southwest side
3
4b
6a
6b
5c
A1,4c
7b
6b
Ae,5a
5a 4c
3
3
3
3
4a
4a
4a
A3
4b
4a
3
4a
4a
4a
1. Susibel
2. Super frio
3. Cuca
4. ?
5. 98 Octanos
6. Four roses
7. Pirenaic
1
2
3
4
7
6
5
Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on
the A2 highway. Turn of at exit 576.
Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat
and continue in the direction of Monestir de Montserrat.
When you arrive at the Monestir park and continue
into the area. You will find a mouantain railway that
will take you to Pla de les Tarntules. Alternatively,
take a long walk and pass sant Miquel (more than one
hours walk). Follow the footpath to the West and after
a couple of minutes you will find crag 62 to 65 on your
left.
64.2. La Madalena Superior
150 m.
coronn.com
coronn.com
62.
63.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
Direction
St. Jeroni
64.
65.
66.
67.
68.
Sant Miquel
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
North side
6a
4b
4b
4b 4c
4c
4c
4c
4a
6a
5a
5a
5c
5b
4c
4b
4b
5a
4c
4a
4b
4b
5a
4c
4c
4a
5a
7b+
6a+
5a
5a
5c
4c
6a
6a
5c
5c
5a
4c
4c
4a
4a
4a
4a
4c
1
7
6 5
4
3
2
8
16
15 14
13
12
11
10
9
17
1. oxigeno
2. ?
3. EAM
4. ?
5. Walt Disney
6. Via Apia
7. Albert
8. Llibertat positiva
9. Benson
10. Bi-Potens
11. Augusta
12. Mingo Arenas
13. Sebasti Patio
14. La que hi faltava
15. Rantanplan
16. Petit Gerard
17. Xiqui
you arrive at the Monestir park and continue into the
area. You will find a mouantain railway that will take you
to Pla de les Tarntules. Alternatively, take a long walk
and pass sant Miquel (more than one hours walk). Follow
the footpath to the West and after a couple of minutes
you will find crag 62 to 65 on your left.
65. La Madalena Inferior
105 m.
coronn.com
Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. Turn of at
exit 576.
Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue in the direction
of Monestir de Montserrat. When you arrive at the Monestir park and continue into
the area. Walk in the direction of "Ermita de Sant Benet" and the refugi and after
you have passed them, turn left in the T-junction and walk for about 200 metres
and then head for the crag. Alternatively, take the track from Monestir de Montserrat
in the direction of Pla dels Ocells. Follow the second track to the right and when
you reach the T-junction where the track is coming from the rifugi, you will find the
crag after having left the main track in the direction of the crag, located to the north
behind the crag La Panxa del Bispe.
62.
63.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
Direction
St. Jeroni
64.
65.
66.
67.
68.
Sant Miquel
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
6a
6b+
6c
5b
4c
1
4
2,3
3
9
8
7
5,6
6
12
11
10
1. Oio-ioo 7a
2. Stradivarius
3. Aresta Viol
4. Scherzo finale 6b
5. Kegel 6c
6. Allegro fortssimo 6c+
7. Mentes dementes 7a
8. Eugenia ten cuidado
con el hacha 7a
9. El chancro 6c+
10. Las Cndidas 6c+
11. Vctimas del cambio 6c
12. Missatge perdut
66. Miranda de Sant Benet
South-East
50 m.
6a
coronn.com
Walk in the direction of "Ermita de Sant Benet" and the
refugi and after you have passed them, turn right in the
T-junction. After 100 metres you will pass a tower located
on your left , that is the La Trumfa crag. Continue 100
metres to reach three towers to your left, the biggest one
is this crag.
62.
63.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
Direction
St. Jeroni
64.
65.
66.
67.
68.
Sant Miquel
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
1. Silvian
2. Gam
3. Horchata de chufa
North side
Ae
V+
IV+
III+
V+
IV
6b+
6b+
IV
3
2
1
67.1. La Mmia
North
130 m.
coronn.com
62.
63.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
Direction
St. Jeroni
64.
65.
66.
67.
68.
Sant Miquel
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
6a+
6a
V
V+
V
6a
6a
6b
4
4
6b
6a
6c+
Ae
IV+
1
6
6c
6a+
6b
9
6a
6c
7a
6c+
11
12
IV
IV
IV+
6b
6b
7a
6a
V
III
IV
III
IV
iii+
V+
IV
7a
10
6c
V
6a
V+
V
12
6a+
7a
13
6b
V
6a+
14
6b
7a
15
16
6b IV
6a+
IV+
6a
IV+
3
2
5 6,7,8
7
1. El Frenao
2. El Yeti
3. ?
4. Brown sugar
5. Albert Cervera
6. Escndalo pblico
7. Haus Estrems
8. CESA
9. Kung Fu
10. Pirenaic
11. Kumbaya
12. santacana
13. Valor
14. La Maledicci
de Tutan-Jamn
15. ?
16. Mas Guash
17. Serano
17
Walk in the direction of "Ermita de Sant Benet" and the
refugi and after you have passed them, turn right in the
T-junction. After 100 metres you will pass a tower located
on your left , that is the La Trumfa crag. Continue 100
metres to reach three towers to your left, the biggest one
is this crag.
67.2. La Mmia
South
160 m.
coronn.com
If you look down on the mountain railway that arrives from
the road down in the valley, you will see a track that leads
downwards. Follow this track and at a sharp bend to the
right you leave the road/track for a smaller track and
continue straight ahead to the crag.
62.
63.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
Direction
St. Jeroni
64.
65.
66.
67.
68.
Sant Miquel
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
6b
6a
6b
7a
5c
6a+
6a
6a+
6c+
6a
5b
7b
6a+
6a
5c
1. Traversa de los Dioses
2. Noches de blanco satn
3. Por Buleras
4. Matahari
5. Tepedes
1
5
4
3
2
68. Roca del Cobs
South
coronn.com

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