Size: FV 50 (so-called XXL) measurement length from to width 28.5"/72 cm armpit armpit center back 34.5"/87 cm base of hood hem sleeve 37"/94 cm center back cuff
Body:
Arm:
Hood:
Pocket:
As you may have guesseu, I haven't actually constiucteu one of these (iathei !"#$%&'$"!), but heie is an outline of the constiuction piocess baseu on seam oiuei noticeu while iipping seams, filleu in with what I woulu suggest aftei my making a wool pull-ovei fiom anothei pattein.
Fiist, seams.
Seam allowances on this pattein (the above pattein incluues seam allowances) gieatly vaiieu but weie usually aiounu 1 cm. These shoulu piobably be aujusteu as you go (the allowance, not the pattein size) to make each piece fit how you want.
Neaily all the seams on this weie a kinu of flat-felleu seam. This is the seam useu on jeans, anu is stiongei than top-stitcheu but (I finu) moie putsy to sew coiiectly. Also note that theie aie no exposeu euges on the flat-felleu seam, wheieas the euges aie exposeu on the insiue of the gaiment with top-stitcheu seams. If I weie making one, I woulu just use top-stitching foi all of them because I think that's goou enough anu ceitainly easiei. At any iate, heie aie the two seams useu:
I can't think of a way to bieak up the foimation of the flat-felleu seam anu still get the iesult they hau, so just pin oi piess in place anu make the two lines of stitching. 0i, theie aie othei kinus of flat-felleu seams that can be uone in two steps similai to the top-stitch: sew wiong siues togethei, then folu ovei the seam allowances (which aie on the iight siue of the gaiment) anu stitch them uown. Looking at the uiagiam, just imagine taking the seam allowance of the top-stitch anu foluing the veiy euges back to the iight, into the seconu stitch befoie sewing it. 0ne last note on the flat- felleu seam is that it is suiteu to stiaight seams (think jean legs) anu is veiy iaiely useu on cuiveu lines.
!" $%%&'()*+, -.'%/ 0112/ -+2 (123 0ui main goal is sewing up the siues anu unueiaims last, allowing us to woik with a flat gaiment foi as long as possible (anu also making top-stitching easiei on the machine).
At times you might neeu to impiovise on the seams, but the geneial iuea on these is to entiiely enclose cut fabiic euges in seams whenevei possible. A lot of the seams, such as the cuffs anu hoou flap (both effectively uouble-layei pieces), aie just a single iunning stitch on the pieces put togethei with the euges folueu in between the two pieces. Foi example, the seam joining sleeve to cuff woulu look like this:
If you want a hoou cinch tie, it will go between the hoou anu the hoou tiim. You may caie to pin it theie befoie (anu while) sewing on the hoou tiim, anu then sew acioss the tunnel anu thiough the tie at the top of the hoou. This was uone on the oiiginal smocks, anu keeps the ties fiom migiating to one siue.
4" $55-60*+, -%%&'()&2 0112 51 (123 Befoie attaching the hoou, you'll want to figuie out the pleats. Nake them such that the bottom length of the pleateu hoou fits peifectly aiounu the neck hole of youi bouy, which is alieauy sewn togethei at the shoulueis. Ny smocks hau eight pleats on the hoou, placeu about like this:
}ust keep the pleats aiounu the neck poition (between the two outei pleats above) anu you shoulu be fine. It will make life easiei if you sew the pleats in befoie attaching the hoou, just a single line of stitching on only the hoou piece that holus uown nothing but the pleats. Aftei making the pleats, stitch the hoou on. The neck hole coiiesponus to the main hoou piece; the hoou flap will extenu behinu this piece anu even continue past the euge of the flat neck bottom. The stitching extenuing fiom the neck hole heie is holuing the bottom of the neck flap to the fiont bouy panel:
7" $55-60*+, -%%&'()&2 -.'% 51 (123 This shoulu be faiily stiaight-foiwaiu. The euges of the gussets shoulu line up with the euges of the aimholes on each siue of the bouy panels.
8" $55-60*+, 69::% }ust like pleating the hoou to fit the neck hole, you'll want to pleat youi aim enus to match youi cuff length. Ny smocks hau five pleats of a little ovei 1 cm each. Again, sew in the pleats befoie joining the seam.
;" <16=&5% Beie is how oui pocket flaps will line up with the pocket bouy:
Note the oveilap, which is unique to this pocket uesign. Again, see my ieview foi some ielateu pictuies. To make the pocket flap fiom two pieces, just hiue the euges insiue anu sew togethei (this may iequiie some piessing anuoi pinning). We will leave a bit of the pocket flap euge when sewing them to the pockets. This will allow us to sew the top of the pocket flap to the anoiak without sewing oui pocket shut. A fiont view, then a siue view: http:www.flicki.comphotos4948Su99Nu246S6S8949usizeslinset- 721S7624172871714%SBimg
If you aie unsuie of how the pocket pait shoulu look, just cut out one flat siue of a biown papei gioceiy bag, cutting about an inch fiom the euge. (If you cut along the bottom coineis now, you woulu enu up with oui pocket pattein.) The pocket will be sewn to the anoiak thiough the inch of the flat siue that you left. You can kinu of see this euge heie on the upsiue-uown pocket:
As fai as placement goes, the pockets on these aie about an inch fiom the bottom (aftei hemming), but you can obviously put them wheievei you want. These pockets aie iight on my thighs, anu some people complain about this being annoying when they have things in theii pockets. Consiuei my next post, "What I woulu uo uiffeiently," oi my mouification thieau.
>" ?*+-) %5&@ The final step is to sew up the siues anu unueiaims. The stitching on my smocks stops a few inches fiom the cuff to leave a little bieathing ioom theie (which is goou because the cuffs aie pietty tight). Then folu up anu sew the hem, anu you'ie uone!
If anything in this scatteieu account is uncleai, feel fiee to ask. Latei on I'll be making a thiiu post on this thieau with mouifications to the pattein that I woulu suggest, but I'm tentatively waiting on that until I uo moie woik on my own mouifications. Eiic
The hood flaps are really only one hood flap (I made up the name but don't know what else to call it); there are two pieces stitched together so that (1) the area is more stiff and (2) the edges can be nice. It's the same with the cuffs (which get folded lengthwise), only there isn't a convenient place for a fold on the hood flap, so it's made from two pieces.
The front edges of the main hood piece just touch in the front and don't overlap, so the hood flap holds the buttons and blocks the wind. Of the two front sides of the main hood piece, one has buttonholes and the other has the hood flap.
First, pictures:
Inside out, flap buttoned. There is a buttonhole on the tip of the hood flap, and a correspondi ng button around my left shoulder. It holds the hood flap in place, making the neck very windproof.
Inside out, flap unbuttone d.
Inside out, flap pulled back. The flap is only sewn to the body panel along the bottom of the flap. The light/dark line on the raised fabric is the difference between the double- layer hood flap and the single-layer main hood. Also note that the bottom of the hood flap extends past the edge of the neck hole, into the front body panel.
Rightside out, neck closed. The buttons button in this position. Only a sliver of the hood flap is visible in the center, sewn to the left side and behind the buttonhole/ right side.
Rightside out, hood flap exposed. Here I have pulled down the buttonhole side of the hood front, revealing the hood flap behind.
Now diagrams:
Here is how I would imagine doing it. The process is suggested by the fact that the stitching along the top of the hood flap does not intersect the main hood piece material, rather being just above it. Addition of the following steps would result in the construction order (only steps regarding the hood): hood top, hood trim, hood flap, hood pleats, hood-to-body. (The hood flap hides the edge of the hood trim; the hood trim hides the edge of the hood top.) And I realize now that I've neglected to ever mention there is a second layer of fabric sewn on behind the main buttonholes, on the inside of the hood - you should be able to see its lines of stitching in the pictures.
Step 3 just shows the result of steps 1 and 2.
If you haven't cut the pieces already, I might suggest just cutting a triangle to sew to both hood ends, making kind of a "stovepipe gusset" neck like the ECW anoraks. I'm thinking I will try to modify mine in that way. But glad to hear someone is using the pattern. Did you make any modifications? (Pictures?) Do say if any of the steps didn't work right and so forth.