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Electric copper etching

by JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/) (/id/Electric-copper-etching/) 5 Steps + Collection I Made it! Favorite

Download (/id/Electric-copper-etching/?download=pdf)

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About This Instructable 18,000 views 82 favorites

Posted: Feb 2, 2012 License:

JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FTK/BZPR/GXL61QQY/FTKBZPRGXL61QQY.LARGE.jpg)

Kupferwerk (http://www.kupferwerk.org)

(/member/JohnCopper/) Follow

I was looking a while for a good set of instructions for electric copper etching and found a quite good instruction at Jake von Slatts Steampunkworkshop and decided to refine it a bit and create an own instruction set in german. Now translating it back, i will also provide it here, making it my first instructable...

More by JohnCopper

(/id/Electric-Switch-Puzzle)

Here is an overview on what will be neccessary during all the steps: - a power source ( DC, continuous current ) and electrodes - an electrolyt ( a conductive liquid ): copper sulphate - copper as basis material and for the anode - some plastic or glas containers.

Tags:
Copper (/tag/type-id/category-Workshop/keyw ordcopper/) Etching (/tag/type-id/category-Workshop/keyw ordetching/) Steampunk (/tag/type-id/categoryWorkshop/keyw ord-steampunk/)

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- inkjet paper - sanding paper

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Related

Step 1: The Method

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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FF4/QHFZ/GYE872PJ/FF4QHFZGYE872PJ.LARGE.jpg)

The whole process i will describe is based on an electrolytic bath using a copper sulphate dilution.

Electrolysis itself is a quite easy thing: it is a process, which enforces a chemical reaction due to electricity. What kind of reaction is happening depends on the ingredients being used.

A detailed description of electrolysis can be found here (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolysis)

What do i need for the setup?

- a power source ( DC, continuous current ) and electrodes - an electrolyt ( a conductive liquid ) - copper as basis material and for th anode ) - some plastic or glas containers.

The Power Source It is a good idea to have a switchable power supply. I use one from Graupner (http://www.graupner.de/de/products/294a2a60-66ab-4547-b8228ff610f392e4/6458/product.aspx). It can adjust both current and voltage, so i can vary a bit depending on what materials i use. I would aim at having at least 12V and 15-20A output.

The electrolyt A traditional substance for eletric etching of copper and zinc seems to be copper sulfate (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper(II)_sulfate). It easily dissolves in water to a nice blue liquid. I used a concentration of 4 parts water to 1 part copper sulfate ( assuming 1 kilo being one litre ;) ). Copper sulfate is defined as an irritant, but can be bought online. The potential danger is that it destroys organisms over a longer period of contact. Don't put it on your skin and do not drain it in the sink. If you need to get rid of it, contact your local waste disposal dealer.

Copper Since you want to etch copper, you need to copper object you want to etch. This will be attached to the anode of the power source to let the current run through it. On the cathode you need another piece of copper, on which the Cu2+ molecules can settle. I actually used brass, also works fine, as will all other materials, that are able to join with copper.

Written in chemical terms, this happens: On the Anode: Cu => Cu2+ + 2eOn the Cathode: Cu2+ + 2e- => Cu

The anode dissolves slowly, producing cations, which will transform copper at the cathode through reduction of copperions.

Step 2: Image Transfer

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F1S/751M/GY18KBEK/F1S751MGY18KBEK.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FHV/8M0W/GY3E1W4Z/FHV8M0WGY3E1W4Z.LARGE.jpg)

There are two useful methods of transfering the desired image to the copper plate: Photo exposure (http://fritzing.org/learning/tutorials/pcb-production-tutorials/diypcb-etching/) or direct toner transfer, which saw as the easier ( but maybe more inaccurate ) method i will describe now.

Before continuing, we have to clean the surface of our copper thoroughly, using rubbing alcohol (http://cdn.instructables.com/FJO/GC71/GY18WG1X/FJOGC71GY18WG1X.LARGE.jpg) or other good cleaner. No spot of whatever may be left before the transfer.

Now we need a negative of the image we want to etch. You need to print that on a as glossy as possible sheet of paper. You have to experiment a bit. I chose photo paper for inkjet printers, but i read, that also pages from product catalogs are good. You need a paper, which has a very flat surface so the toner cannot stick to it too good.

Use your iron at a high temperature to first heat up the copper. Then put the sheet with the print towards the copper on the plate and apply it with high pressure of the iron. Take care not to move the sheet or the picture will be messed up. How long you have to press them together depends on the materials used. Again. a bit experimenting is neccessary.

When the sheet is stuck on the plate, put i in hot water for some minutes, until the paper just comes off. After a bit of soft rubbing, the paper should come of

completely and only the toner remains.

That was the tricky part...

Step 3: Etching

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FKP/NMWK/GY18WG23/FKPNMWKGY18WG23.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FRS/8LSD/GY19835E/FRS8LSDGY19835E.LARGE.jpg)

In this step, you will do the etching ( and waiting... )

You will do the setup described in step 1. The copper plate, that you want to etch has to be attached to the anode using some conductive connector. I used alligator clips, but you can as well just build a small conductive frame, which holds the material. Again some experimenting is needed... Same for the cathode.

The coppler plate has to be covered in the dilution as complete as possible. parts, that are not covered, will not be etched.

When everything is setup properly, power on the power source. I used 15V and 20A as an initial value. If you measure the resistance or the current flow, it will change with time and more power will flow.

Take care, the dilution does not get to hot. Some steam is fine, as long as it is colorless and does not smell. Boiling water will destroy the plate very likely.

From time to time slew the anode plate a bit, that the coat, which will appear after a while, disappears. Try not to remove the toner.

The duration of the process depends on how deep you want to etch and how much current your power source is able to deliver. The piece i took for demonstration took me almost an hour.

Step 4: Finishing

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F4U/OSQQ/GY18RCQL/F4UOSQQGY18RCQL.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FMF/JGDI/GY485VTM/FMFJGDIGY485VTM.LARGE.jpg)

Let the dilution drip of well after the etching. Let as much as possible drip back to the container, since you do not want to put it in the sink. Then clean it with clear water. A low concentration of coppersulfate won't harm the environment, but keep it as low as possible.

Use some very fine sanding paper or grinding swart to clean the plate from toner remainders and to get a nice and clean surface.

As you can see on the gun handle, i did not do the transfer properly. There was not enough toner on that line, or it was not well transfered, since it seemed to have fallen off during the etching.

Well.. that' it.. etching done...

Step 5: Addendum

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJV/MT5R/GY485VUX/FJVMT5RGY485VUX.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FFJ/MBPQ/GY18RCYE/FFJMBPQGY18RCYE.LARGE.jpg)

What happend to the dissolved copper? Does it disappear? No.. it does not... it is attached to the cathode...

Here is a link to the German version

We have a be nice comment policy. Please be positive and constructive.

I Made it!

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shobo (/member/shobo/)

27 days ago

Reply (C68L7LVHQI64OLK)

have you tried this method in pcb etching?

(/member/shobo/) flag

JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/) (author) shobo Reply (CN5JFDHHQI7SBQ3) 27 days ago

hackerspace (/member/JohnCopper/)

not me personally, but our did. works quite well.

flag

fusion (/member/fusion/)

11 months ago

Reply (CIT02BCHE7CFNZQ)

how deep (/member/fusion/)

any ideas for harvesting/using the remaining copper? and i can't tell by the pictures, was the etch?
flag

thekendall (/member/thekendall/)

1 year ago

Reply (CCUCIQ4H4VQ6OQY)

tank and adjust voltage (/member/thekendall/)

This may be stupid but how could I etch more than one piece at a time? Just a bigger and current?
flag

Ramundicus (/member/Ramundicus/)

1 year ago

Reply (CS1DWQKGZUASNON)

conductive metal? (/member/Ramundicus/)

Thanks for posting this. Does the cathode have to be copper or can it be any I need to etch an 18" long control panel and finding a long narrow plastic container isn't easy. I can get a long stainless steel restaurant pan which could work as the container and the cathode but I'd like to be sure that stainless is a suitable cathode material. Does the distance between the cathode and the anode have any effect on the results or the speed or depth of the etch?
flag

JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/) (author) Ramundicus Reply (CJIRMIOGZUASO4B) 1 year ago

you can use (/member/JohnCopper/)

other conductives will also work, since this method also for copper plating ( look at the comment below ). so you want to use the pan as container and cathode? i would not do this, since you put a not small amount of electricity on it! you have to use a non conductive material as container.

in general i don't know, ich stainless stell works as a cathode... the distance does have an effect, it will speed it up, but might also result in increasing heat...
flag

Ramundicus (/member/Ramundicus/)

JohnCopper

Almost forgot. You mention that the distance between the anode and (/member/Ramundicus/) cathode can effect the speed of the etch. You're using a narrow cathode strip compared to the width of the anode plate. The distance between the two nodes is further at the ends of the anode than at the center. The difference is small but if you positioned the two pieces 1" apart, there may be several times that distance between the cathode and the ends of the anode plate. Have you experimented with that and does that matter?

1 year ago

Reply (CZO4JRVGZUASP6G)

flag

Ramundicus (/member/Ramundicus/)

You may have a point about the amount of current on the metal pan. I got the (/member/Ramundicus/) idea from an etching system I found online. They use a smaller steel pan and a small power supply for etching small pieces. I don't know how much voltage or current it uses but it appears to work, I just don't know how well. It's the only method I've seen that uses a steel cathode/container. (Disclaimer: I have no interest in that company or product, it's very expensive and I'm not recommending it.) I do like the idea of etching horizontally, though, with the cathode lying on the bottom of the container. I think I can control the distance between the cathode and anode better than if they're vertical. I plan to use an Xbox power supply that delivers 16.5A at 12V. I'm back to searching for a 20" long plastic container. ;)

JohnCopper 1 year ago

Reply (C3HZUS9GZUASP3R)

flag

ResaJo (/member/ResaJo/)

2 years ago

Reply (CZM70XEGYKVXIVG)

reverse (/member/ResaJo/)

You know, you can use this process in reverse to actually do copper plating? just the charges from anode to cathode, having coated whatever you want to plate with a electrolytic paint, (even organic things such as leaves, so long as you have coated it completely with a thin coating of wax & then painted it with the paint) and run your bath at a low amps over a period of time and you can "grow" copper onto just about anything.
flag

JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/) (author) ResaJo Reply (CZJ14RCGYKQ5OM6) 2 years ago

yep... i know... that's described in this wonderful instructable: (/member/JohnCopper/)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electroformingan-Iris-Seed-Pod/
flag

ericCycles (/member/ericCycles/)

2 years ago

Reply (CE96TDFGYDLQHDE)

course, the (/member/ericCycles/)

When I was a high school student, we used ferric chloride as a pcb etchant. Of solution would become saturated with copper and stop working. This approach sounds more interesting as it should never become exhausted, copper

should be entering and leaving the solution at the same rate. Hmm, however, there would be a problem getting electricity to all the paths, so I guess this isn't something you could use for PCB's. Thought: could you use an epsom salt (magnesium sulphate) solution instead of a copper sulphate solution? Epsom salts are cheap and easy to come by.
flag

JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/) (author) ericCycles Reply (C2E59Y7GYE871FR) 2 years ago

saturated, but after (/member/JohnCopper/)

yes, technically is should not become a while, since your material will never be 100% clean, you will have some other dirt in the dilution. it can of course be easily filtered and used again.

i have seen pcbs etched with that method for smd chips, so quite detailed and fine. i do not see, why it should not work, because the paths will form during the process of etching... i don't know, if it works with epsom salt. i never tried it, so i can't recommend it. i have seen prices vary from 30% ( fishbowl use ) to 200% ( pharmaceutical use ) of the price of coppersulfate. always depends on the quality... i got my coppersulfate for 8/kg from ebay... so also cheap and easy...
flag

crysisatutz (/member/crysisatutz/)

2 years ago

Reply (CO9MTAXGYDJPRF0)

(cathode) (/member/crysisatutz/)

Please change the words "Anode" and "Kathode" against each other. A Kathode is defined as a thing which gives the system electrons. And a Anode (anode) is defined as a thing which take electrons from the system.
flag

JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/) (author) crysisatutz Reply (COBX94YGYDLQHDI) 2 years ago

mixed that up (/member/JohnCopper/)

hm.. actually you are right... i guess i at the beginning.. thanks for the hint.. will be changed...

flag

friger (/member/friger/)

2 years ago

Reply (CC1CY4FGY4RFQA0)

into the (/member/friger/)

I like this. Have you tried coating the copper plate in wax and scratching you design wax? I did that once to etch aluminum and used copper as the anode.
flag

JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/) (author) friger Reply (CWENBI5GY4R8NSX) 2 years ago

thanks :)

no i did not try did... for (/member/JohnCopper/)

a reason... my skills in scratching wax ;) designing the image on the computer and just printing it, seemed more usable for me...
flag

hjjusa (/member/hjjusa/)

2 years ago

Reply (C4XXM5FGY4RACXI)

Will this etch brass also?

(/member/hjjusa/) flag

JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/) (author) hjjusa Reply (CSLVQLBGY4RADU3) 2 years ago

copper and (/member/JohnCopper/)

yes it should, since brass is an alloy of zinc. the instruction i based this on, was using brass to etch...

flag

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