Bucharest PDF

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BUCHAREST
December 2013 - January 2014
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CONTENTS
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Bucharest Basics
6 Everything you always wanted to know about Bucharest and Romania, but were afraid to ask 11 16 22
Arrival & Transport

Navigating Bucharest
Culture & Events

Including a look at Romanias winter traditions
Ski Romania
Romanias top ski resorts reviewed
What to Buy in Bucharest 26 Avoid going home with a load of old tourist crap Where to Stay
From palaces of gold to bargain sleeps 30
Traditional Romanian dishes on sale at a craft market held at the end of November at the Peasant Museum. For more ideas on what to buy in Bucharest - and where - see pages 26-29.
Restaurants
Where to eat
40
Nightlife 62
Clubs, bars, pubs and the like
Sightseeing
What to see Where to spend your days 65
Old Town / Lipscani

The heart and soul of the city
74
Directory
90
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Everything you need including foreign embassies, pharmacies and dentists.
Maps & Street Register

The suburb of Pantelimon may not be everyones first choice of places to visit in Bucharest, but theres now a very good reason to go there: see page 71.
Northern Bucharest Central & Southern Bucharest Street Register & Hotel Map Index
94 96 98
FOREWORD
Bucharest does winter well. Very well. For anyone brought up in a country like Britain, which gets its knickers in a twist at the first sign of a light dusting of snow, the sight of Bucharests trams and buses running when the snow is metres deep and its blowing a blizzard is a thing of wonder. Last year - the snowiest winter for decades - RATB (the Bucharest public transport operator) kept the city moving: buses and trams kept going when even the biggest four wheel drives had to be left in the garage. Of course, it is not all good news. The city is famously bad at clearing snow from pavements, and no sooner has the white stuff stopped falling than it starts melting, the fresh powder that was such fun for five minutes turning quickly to a dirty mush that renders many streets impassable and which makes it downright impossible to cross some roads. Yet winter fun in Bucharest is found easily: locals love to ice skate in the open air, so you will find floodlit ice rinks in most of the citys parks. The most central ice rink is that in Cismigiu. All rinks have small huts hiring out skates by the hour for a modest fee, and a post-skate mulled wine is compulsory.
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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
ISSN 1454-5276 IYP Romania Srl. Printed at MEGAPress SA, Bucharest (tel. (+4) 021 461 08 08/09). Published six times per year, up to 20,000 copies produced each issue. Bucharest In Your Pocket is a member of the Romanian Audit Bureau of Circulation (BRAT). Editorial Editor Craig Turp Photography IYP Romania Srl unless otherwise stated. Cover photo Craig Turp/IYP Romania Srl. Metro map by Maximilian Turp-Balazs from an idea by Alexander Sirbu. Sales To contact our sales team send an email to bucharest@inyourpocket.com, or call our office and ask for the sales department. Copyright notice
Text, photos and maps copyright IYP Romania Srl 19992014 unless otherwise stated. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of its review, without written permission from the copyright owner. The trademark In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernadinu g. 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Cover story
The Pantelimon Art Tower is one of the most original cultural projects in Bucharest for many a year. Found in the east of Bucharest, in the Pantelimon area of the capital, you can read more about the tower - and how you can visit - on page 71. Photo by Craig T urp
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.
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Bucharest In Your Pocket
BUcHAREST BASIcS
Crime & Safety
We do not exaggerate when we say that Bucharest is one of the safest capital cities in Europe. Violent crime is rare and almost always carried out exclusively between rival gangs fighting for the control of territory in the citys less-salubrious areas. If you do not go looking for trouble, the chances of you getting into any are tiny. While pickpockets are everywhere (you should be particularly careful on crowded buses, and always watch your bag in busy pubs and clubs), petty thieves are by and large a cowardly lot in Romania and will run a mile at the first sign of any resistance. Knife-crime is unheard of, and even women can walk the citys streets alone at night in relative safety. The Romanian police force is also far better and less corrupt than it used to be and keeps a visual presence on the citys streets, especially in busy areas such as Old Town at night. The main police station in Bucharest is on B-dul Lascar Cartagiu (B-4), halfway between Piata Romana and Piata Victoriei. In a nutshell though, do not worry. Of all Bucharests many, many problems, crime really is one of the least of them. Just keep your wits about you, apply common sense and all will be well.
bUcHARESTbASIcS BASIcS BUcHAREST

A brief history of Bucharest (2)
In January 1859, at the Hotel Concordia on Strada Smardan, Wallachias nascent parliament elected Alexandru Ioan Cuza as the principalitys new ruler. Given that the Moldovian parliament had elected the same man to be their leader a few days before, the vote at the Concordia in effect created the first state of Romania. Nevertheless, it would be another 19 years (and require another Russo-Turkish War) before Romania was officially able to declare itself independent of Turkey, in 1878. Bucharest grew - and flourished - during the reign of Carol I (1866-1914), Romanias first king. Electricity was introduced in 1882, and the city hosted a grand exhibition, Romania in the World, in 1906, designed to show how much progress the country was making. The Carol Park in southern Bucharest was built to host the fair. During the 1920s and 1930s Bucharest was one of Europes most dynamic cities, and architecturally one of its most avant-garde. Large numbers of art deco buildings were constructed around the city. The Lido and Ambassador hotels on Bulevardul Magheru, as well as the Telephone Palace on Calea Victoriei are just three examples of this new wave. The Bucharest we know today, however, is as much the product of the communist period, from 1944 to 1989, as anything. Bucharest was heavily bombed during the latter part of World War II (the old national theatre, which stood on Calea Victoriei, was one victim of this bombing) but in comparison with much of Europe, the city was relatively unscathed. The communist authorities therefore initially made their mark on the city not by changing it but by greatly extending it. The first major project was the district of Bucurestii Noi, constructed at the beginning of the 1950s. It was followed by the vast housing estates of Militari and Titan, huge dormitories for workers shipped in from the countryside to staff the newly created industrial platforms of Industriilor, Republica and IMGB. The citys population doubled from 900,000 at the end of World War II to 1.8 million by 1980. In 1977 the biggest earthquake in the citys history killed more than 1,500 people. The countrys best-loved actor, Toma Caragiu, was amongst those killed. Many buildings were destroyed or damaged beyond repair, and Romanias leader Nicolae Ceausescu took the opportunity to remodel the city in his own vision. By 1989 almost a third of Bucharest had been destroyed to make way for the new Centru Civic, the centrepiece of which was Casa Poporului, today known as Palatul Parlamentului. Construction on the Centru Civic began in 1984, and some parts remain incomplete today, lost in limbo. The enormous Casa Radio (A-5) on Strada Stirbei Voda is one such building. Bucharest was the scene of the heaviest fighting during the Romanian Revolution of 1989, most of which centred on Piata Revolutiei, Piata Universitatii, the TVR building and Otopeni Airport. Since the revolution Bucharest has continued to grow, although much of that growth has been outside the city limits. The population of the city proper in fact peaked in 2000, at 2.3 million: it is officially now down to 1.9 million (2011 census).
A brief history of Bucharest (1)

While there are traces of settlements around Bucharest dating back to the Paleolithic period, the city itself is in fact relatively new: mention of it is not made until 1459, as one of the residences of Vlad III (the Impaler), ruler of Wallachia. The exact origins of the city are therefore unknown. Folklore has it that a shepherd, Bucur, founded the city, but a more likely candidate is Radu Voda (also known as Radu Negru), ruler of Wallachia from c. 1290-1300. It was under Vlad the Impaler that the city grew to any real size, when it became the preferred site of the Wallachian court. This was based in what is today known as the Old Town, around the Curtea Veche. The city was sacked for the first time in 1476, by the Moldavian ruler Stephen the Great (Stefan cel Mare), and again by the Turks in 1554. During Mihai Bravus uprising against the Turks in 1594, Bucharest was all but destroyed in heavy fighting. It was not until the reign of Wallachian prince Matei Basarab in the 1640s that the city fully recovered, and the princely court rebuilt. Sacked again in 1655 (by the Transylvanians) Bucharest suffered plague and famine for much of the rest of the 1600s. It was the accession to the Wallachian throne of Constantin Brancoveanu in 1688 which changed Bucharests fortunes. Brancoveanu negotiated alliances with the Hapsburgs and Russians - keeping the Turks at bay while overseeing a cultural renaissance at home. It was during his reign that the Brancovenesc-style (a mix of the Renaissance and the Byzantine) so popular with the citys architects for centuries after first appeared. The Turks finally got the better of Brancoveanu in 1714: ordered to Constantinople to account for himself he was beheaded by Sultan Ahmed III. No longer trusting local Wallachian princes to serve their interests, the Turks instead appointed a long line of Greek administrators to rule the principality. Known as the Phanariots (they came from the Greek district of Constantinople, Phanar) they would rule over Bucharest until 1821. During this time the city grew in size and importance, despite regular disasters: both natural and man-made. The Austrian army occupied the city from 1789-91, there were major earthquakes in 1802, 1804 and 1812, while plague returned in 1813-14. As many as 40,000 people died in Wallachia during the plague. While still nominally a Turkish province, the Peace of Adrianople which ended the Russo-Turkish war of 1828-9 left Wallachia (and Bucharest with it) under Russian occupation. Fortunately, the general the Russians appointed to govern Bucharest, Pavel Kiseleff, was an enlightened man and a moderniser who during his 14 years in charge of the city (1829-1843) oversaw sweeping changes. He carved out new boulevards (one of which, Sos. Kiseleff, today carries his name), paved many roads, introduced running water and a sewerage system, did the citys first proper census, built schools and hospitals and centralised the citys chaotic fire-fighting service.
A new look for In Your Pocket

Never a publisher to rest on our laurels, we have spent the past few months hunkered down in frenzied activity readying a brand new look for In Your Pocket. Yes, courtesy of a crack team of top designers, your favourite city guides have had a bit of a makeover; we will be rolling out the new design during the first part of 2014. Many of the changes we have made are a result of the many comments we have had from readers over the past couple of years, sharing their thoughts with us about how the guides can be improved. As such, the new look is a welcome change that brings renewed modernity, freshness and vivacity to our award-winning publications. Look out for the new-look In Your Pocket soon.
Customs Regulations
While Romania joined the European Union (EU) in 2007, which should facilitate the complete, unfettered movement of goods between member countries, United Kingdom customs officers appear not to have noticed. As such you are only permitted to take 200 cheap cigarettes purchased in Romania to the UK with you (we feel obliged to point out, however, that you will be passing through the blue channel on arrival in the UK and the chances of being stopped are almost zero...). If you are travelling elsewhere in the EU, there are no limits on the amount of cigarettes you can bring home from Romania. Alcohol is likewise unrestricted. For those of you travelling outside of the EU when leaving Romania, you should check the import limits on fags and booze with your destination country before travelling. The export of some antiques purchased in Romania (especially old religious icons) is subject to the completion of tedious paperwork, although any reputable antiques store or dealer will be able to take care of this for you. Ask when buying if you are not sure.
Dogs
When Things Go Wrong

In an emergency call 112. You do not need to use the city code, whether calling from a landline or a mobile. You wll be asked which service you require (Politia/Police, Ambulanta/Ambulance or Pompierii/Firemen). Emergency call centre operators should speak English or French but in our experience they do not always do so. At least make sure you know the name of the street you are calling from. If you get into trouble with the Police, demand to call your embassy. There is a list on page 90. The citys main police station is the new building at (B-4) Str. Lascar Cartagiu 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 84. The best Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) in the city is at Spitalul de Urgente, (C-3) Calea Floreasca 8, next to Dinamo Stadium. More details in the Health box on page 10. There is a list of Pharmacies on page 93, and an English speaking Dentist on page 90.
It was once written that you couldnt swing a cat in Bucharest without hitting a dog (by us, in fact, in our first issue, some 14 years ago) and it remains true - up to a point. According to a census carried out by the city council last year there are still more than 64,000 stray dogs on Bucharests streets (64,704 to be precise), although the vast majority are found outside of the city centre. There are still some packs of dogs in the city centre (Old Town has its fair share of strays) but these tend to be less aggressive than those which live in the citys suburbs. However, the number of people being bitten each year in the city is rising. In 2012 more than 16,000 people were bitten by Bucharests strays, an increase of more than 30 per cent on 2011. Despite this, there appears to be little real urgency about any of the efforts being made to eradicate the problem. Indeed, to all intents and purposes the city council has washed its hands of the issue. Add in the fact that a large and vociferous minority of Bucharests citizens actually want the dogs to remain on the streets and it becomes clear that the problem will not be dealt with anytime soon. There are also a number of well-funded animal-rights NGOs which reject any proposal to rid the city of its dogs. All of these factors combined to tragic ef fect in September 2013, when a four-year-old boy was killed by a pack of strays on some waste ground next to a park in northern Bucharest. This awful incident (the boy is the third person to be killed by strays in the Romanian capital over the past few years) immediately prompted the authorities to pass new legislation designed to eradicate dogs from Romanias streets once and for all. It remains to be seen, however, if local councils - including that in Bucharest - will act upon it. Should the worst come to the worst and you are bitten during your time in Bucharest, present yourself at once
bUcHAREST BASIcS
National Holidays
December 1 December 25, 26 January 1, 2014 April 21, 2014 May 1, 2014 June 23, 2014 August 15, 2014 National Day (Union Day) Christmas New Years Day Easter Monday Labour Day Pentecost St. Marys Day
Local laws & Police
If you are driving, or are out late at night, it is a good idea to carry at least a photocopy of your passport and driving license. Drinking in public (except in designated areas) leaves you open to a fine, and despite appearances to the contrary, prostitution is illegal. If you are arrested ask to speak to your embassy. There is a list on page 90.
Money
to the casualty unit (Camera de Garda) at the Institutul Matei Bals, (D-3) Str. Dr. Calistrat Grozovici 1, tel. (+4) 021 318 60 90. The wound will be cleaned up, and you will be administered both an anti-tetanus and an anti-rabies vaccine (the anti-rabies injection is the first of a course three: the others must be done seven and then 21 days afterwards). You will also get a prescription for a course of antibiotics. Gara de Nord offers left luggage facilities, but no luggage lockers. You will find the left luggage counter opposite the Wasteels office, a short walk from the platforms. The charge is cursory: 5 lei per small bag per 24 hours, 9 lei for a bigger bag. Note that the office can keep irregular hours (with staff taking breaks seemingly willy-nilly), so always make sure there will be someone on hand to give you back your bag when you want to pick it up. There are not currently any left luggage facilities at Otopeni airport.
Romanias currency is the leu (plural lei), divided into 100 bani. Notes come in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50, 10, 5 and 1. These are supplemented by 50, 10 and 5 bani coins. The best place to get your hands on Romanian money is at an ATM. If you really do have to change cash, then please ensure that you do it inside a bank. Credit and debit cards (MasterCard and Visa at least) are accepted almost everywhere. American Express and Diners Club cards are less widely accepted.
Left Luggage
Politics
So where am I exactly?
Bucharest, capital of Romania. Situated in that part of the world which will - to those of a certain age - always be known as Eastern Europe, it would be more accurate to describe Bucharests geographical location as southeastern Europe. Founded, legend has it, in the 14th century, Bucharest is in that part of Romania known as Wallachia, one of the three historic principalities which make up the modern country (the others are Moldavia and Transylvania). Romania as a nation state is relatively new: while Moldavia and Wallachia have been united as a single country since 1859, Romania took on its modern form only on December 1st, 1918, when the Romanians of Transylvania voted to join in the fun. The official population of Bucharest is just under two million people, but as many migrants from the rest of the country do not bother to register as citizens of the capital, the true number is thought to be closer to three million. Bucharest is close to the Danube (which is just 69 kilometres to the south), the border between Romania and Bulgaria. The main crossing point is at Giurgiu, linked by a bridge with Ruse, the Bulgarian town on the other side of the river, whose pleasant centre is well worth a day trip if you are at a loose end. Alas you will need a car, as train services between Bucharest and Ruse (and the rest of Bulgaria) are poor. Bucharest is around 240 kilometres from Constanta and the Black Sea coast, and now that the A2 motorway goes all the way to the Black Sea port, the journey can be done in just over two hours. Like most trains in Romania, the Bucharest - Constanta service is slow and it takes almost three hours. To the north of Bucharest is Ploiesti - the centre of Romanias oil industry, and beyond that the Carpathian Mountains, a two hour drive away.
The Romanian political scene has been relatively sensible lately, but then given how last year saw local elections, a presidential impeachment referendum and a general election, it was always likely to be so. The government, made up of an alliance of the Social Democrats (PSD) and the Liberals (PNL; together called the Social Liberal Union, or USL) and led by Victor Ponta, has managed to so far peacefully coexist with its erstwhile foe, the president Traian Basescu. There are two reasons for this. Firstly, the USL has more than 65 per cent of seats in parliament and can pretty much do what it wants. Secondly, Basescus second term ends soon, and he cannot run for a third. Unless the USL splits we expect the political scene to remain steady until campaigning begins for the presidential election (to be held in November 2014).
A Word From Bucharests Mayor

I am one of the over two million inhabitants of Bucharest. This is where I was born, and where I grew up. I know both the bright and dark sides of every nook and cranny. I have learned the history of each stone, and experienced romance while wandering in Herastrau Park or admiring the city by night. I have traveled a lot, but I have always come back home with infinite joy in order to discover my Bucharest over and over again. I am sure that there would have been no better place in Romania to build my medical career, with all the professional and academic opportunities that a capital city like Bucharest can offer. Yet I understood that for everything you get in this life you have to give something back. That is why now, as the Mayor of Bucharest, I commit myself to giving the people of this city a place to live in, not just a place to dwell in. Bucharest is Romanias most important cultural, economic, financial and political centre. It generates more than 20 per cent of the countrys GDP and is inhabited by more than 10 per cent of the Romanian population. All major financial and political institutions are based here. As one of 27 - soon to be 28 - European capitals, Bucharest is eager to share its cultural heritage with the community and the whole world. I therefore invite you to explore this wonderful city, to discover its mystery and take its pulse: Bucharest is always ready to surprise and impress its guests with its eternal and motley poetry. Sorin Oprescu, Mayor of Bucharest
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bUcHAREST BASIcS
Toilets
The only decent public toilets in town are those at Gara de Nord (for which you have to pay, 1 leu). You will find free portaloos around the city but these should be used only by the very desperate. Otherwise, find the nearest McDonalds and make use of their loos. Note, however, that entrance to some McDonalds toilets in Bucharest is protected with a four-digit code, which you will get when you buy something.
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Arrival 1: Otopeni
Bucharests only commercial airport is Otopeni (officially Henri Coanda), 17km north of the city on the DN1. Opened in 1970 and recently extended, it is a spacious, efficient airport. Baneasa Airport - once the citys low-cost hub - closed its doors to airlines in March 2012. After getting off the plane and easing your way through passport control, youll find yourself in the baggage reclaim area. Ignore all of the services on offer here. You should especially ignore the currency exchange desks: they do not offer decent rates. Instead, grab your luggage, which usually arrives promptly (if it fails to arrive head for the small office on the right hand of side of the exit, where staff will help you find out where it might have gone), and then its off through customs to the arrivals area. Here there are loads of ATMs, a press shop and a small cafe. To the right is a passage leading to the departures terminal: the passage is lined with car hire desks and a few shops, including a chemist. To order a taxi, look for the touchscreens in the arrivals hall. They are fully automated and very easy to use (and offer multiple-language options), and you can choose a taxi from just about the full range of Bucharest taxi companies: all have their tariffs clearly displayed. Once the taxi company of your choice has informed you (via the screen) how long the taxi will take to arrive, and what ID number the taxi has, you simply go outside to wait for your taxi. Just make sure you get into the correct taxi: check the company name and ID number. While most of the rip-off taxis of yore have now gone, there are still sometimes touts hassling visitors inside the arrivals hall: ignore them. For those who want to head into town in a bit more comfort than your average visitor, a good option is TransVision, who offer airport transfers in a fleet of smart vehicles from as little as 5 per person. Call (+4) 755 05 26 21 or go to visit their website, www.airport-transferbucharest.com. You can also get to town by taking bus 783, which stops underneath the arrivals hall, in front of internal arrivals and leaves for the city centre (stopping at Piata Victoriei, Piata Romana and Piata Universitatii) every 30 minutes during the day, and then every 40 minutes throughout the night. The full timetable of the 783 bus is online at ratb.ro. Another bus, the 780, runs from the airport to Gara de Nord from 05:15 to 23:00 roughly every 30 minutes. You need to purchase an Activ Card before boarding (get it from the little booth which youll find on your right hand side as you exit). A return journey into the city and back costs 7 lei (no singles are available, but there is no time limit on using the return). You also need to pay 3.70 lei for the card itself, but it can be recharged as often as you like at any ticket kiosk in Bucharest, with as much credit as you wish, and used on all Bucharest buses, trams and the metro. These cards cannot be bought on board. There is also a train which connects the airport to the main railway station, Gara de Nord. The train departs at irregular and infrequent intervals, however, and to get to the airports station you need to take a minibus. We do not recommend it. Timetables and tickets are available from a counter in the Arrivals hall. Look out for the Bilete CFR sign.
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Market Values
One 1 is currently worth 4.45 lei. A pint of local beer in a central Bucharest bar or pub will cost you around 8 lei (1.80). A McDonalds Big Mac costs 11 lei (2.49), while a loaf of plain bread in a local store is 1.20 lei (0.27). A packet of 20 international brand cigarettes costs 14.50 lei (3.28), and one litre of standard unleaded petrol 5.94 lei (1.34). A onetrip ticket for public transport ticket costs 1.30 lei (0.29).
Time & People

Romania is in the Eastern European Time Zone: GMT + 2 hours. When it is 12:00 in Bucharest it is 11:00 in Berlin, 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York. The population of Romania is 19,042,936, and of Bucharest 1.9 million according to figures from the 2011 census.
Quick Currency Converter

Lei 1 lei 2 lei 3 lei 4 lei 5 lei 6 lei 7 lei 8 lei 9 lei 10 lei 20 lei 50 lei 100 lei 150 lei 200 lei 250 lei 500 lei Euro 1=4.45 lei 0.22 0.45 0.67 0.90 1.12 1.35 1.57 1.80 2.02 2.25 3.37 4.49 11.24 22.47 33.71 44.94 112.36 GB Pound 1=5.32 lei 0.19 0.38 0.56 0.75 0.94 1.13 1.32 1.50 1.69 1.88 2.82 3.76 9.40 18.80 28.20 37.59 93.98 US$ $1=3.31 lei $ 0.30 $ 0.60 $ 0.91 $ 1.21 $ 1.51 $ 1.81 $ 2.11 $ 2.42 $ 2.72 $ 3.02 $ 4.53 $ 6.04 $ 15.11 $ 30.21 $ 45.32 $ 60.42 $ 151.06
Moving On
Getting from Bucharest to the capitals of neighbouring countries is not as easy, quick or inexpensive as you would expect.
Health
Should you fall ill, the local health service is more than adequate, if not perfect. Hospitals do suffer from a lack of funds, and the frequent handing over of 10 lei notes to everyone from the receptionist to the cleaner is recommended. In an emergency you should call tel. 112 or tel. (+4) 021 9731 for an ambulance. The best state emergency hospital is Spitalul de Urgenta, C-3, Calea Floreasca 8, tel. (+4) 021 599 23 00. If your child becomes ill, you should take him or her to the excellent childrens emergency hospital, found at (B-4), B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 30-32, tel. (+4) 021 212 93 64/66. A list of 24 hour pharmacies can be found on page 93.
Bucharest - Belgrade T arom flies to Belgrade once a

day, with prices from around 166 return. Incredibly, there is currently no train service between Bucharest and Belgrade.
Taxi Tactics
Bucharests dodgy taxi drivers have a refreshingly liberal sense of equal opportunities. Locals, foreigners, young, old, male, female: anyone who steps in the wrong kind of taxi can expect to be well and truly buggered. The important thing to remember when getting into a taxi in this city is that there are two kinds: those which are operated by a tried and trusted taxi company (usually good) and independents (usually bad). The problem is spotting the difference. By and large, trustworthy taxis are easy to spot as they are emblazoned with the name and phone number of the company they are associated with. The best way to avoid being ripped off however is to pay careful attention to the tariffs, displayed on the driver and passenger door of all taxis. There should just be one single tarif displayed, and anything higher than 1.69 lei per kilometre should start alarm bells ringing. If you feel something is a bit suspect in any taxi, note down the drivers number and call his company to report him. Autogeneral 021 9401, Cobalcescu 021 9451, Confort 021 9455, Cristaxi 021 9461, Leone 021 9425, Mavi 021 9450 Meridian 021 9444, Mondial 021 9423, Speed Taxi 021 9477, Taxi As 021 9435, Taxi Total 021 9424. Most of these companies have at least one operator who speaks English.
Bucharest - Budapest There are three flights from Bucharest to Budapest each day, all operated by T arom. Standard return prices start at around 172, although you can often find cheaper tickets if you book far enough in advance. There are also three direct trains connecting the two cities: the fastest daytime train leaves at 05:45 (arriving in Budapest at 18:50) while the night train leaves at 17:40 and arrives at 08:50. The price for a berth in a sleeping wagon is around 90 (one way), while a bed in a cuseta (sharing with up to five others) costs around 53. Again, the best place to buy international train tickets in Bucharest is Wasteels, at Gara de Nord. Bucharest - Chisinau There are four flights a day between Bucharest and Chisinau, and if bought far enough in advance return plane tickets with T arom can cost as little as around 122. Air Moldova also fly the same route, tickets costing slightly more, around 144 return. The overnight train to Chisinau departs Bucharest at 19:40, and arrives in the Moldovan capital at 08:52 the next morning. Tickets cost from around 41 (single).
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Bucharest - Kyiv Getting to Kyiv from Bucharest takes plenty of patience. Using a flight search-engine such as skyscanner.com, however, you can now find return flights for around 220, often via Amsterdam. The train to Kyiv takes a whopping 27 hours, leaving Bucharest at 06:12, arriving in Kyiv at 09:18 the following morning. Tickets cost from around 63 (single). Bucharest - Sofia Flying to Sofia from Bucharest costs around 180, with either T arom or Bulgaria Air. There are two or three flights per day depending on the day of the week. There are two very slow direct trains per day, one at 12:30 (arriving Sofia 22:00) and a night train leaving at 23:12 (arriving in Sofia at 09:25). Single tickets cost from 59. Much cheaper (and quicker) is the daily coach linking Bucharest and Sofia. It leaves the Gara Filaret coach station next to Parcul Carol (B-7) each day at 16:00, arriving in Sofia just under seven hours later. Tickets cost 100 lei and can be bought direct from the driver or online at www.etapgroup.com. bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Some trusted taxi companies:
In Your Pocket is now available on all smartphones via our new responsive mobile platform, found at m.inyourpocket.com. Featuring more than 100 cities across Europe, In Your Pocket Mobile is an invaluable resource which puts our unrivalled content together with the technical capabilities of todays smartphones. In Your Pocket Mobile allows you to view all venues in a city on a map, quickly showing which are the closest to your current location. Smart filters can be used to ensure that only those places which matter to you are displayed. You can also leave comments about venues, as well as rate them, right in the mobile platform. You can even share your comments with your friends via the most popular social networks. Point your phones web browser to m.inyourpocket.com now. December 2013 - January 2014
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ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Public transport
Even the most remote corners of Bucharest are served by bus, trolleybus or tram, and most main roads in the city centre benefit from three or four different transport routes. Most buses are overcrowded, however, and travelling on them can often be a less than pleasant experience. Buses, trolleybuses and trams run from very early in the morning (around 04:30) to around 23:00 (earlier at weekends), after which the night buses take over. The night bus network is extensive, and operates an hourly service throughout the night. All night buses depart from Piata Unirii.
Arrival 2: Gara de Nord

If you arrive in Bucharest by train you will arrive at Gara de Nord. It is OK, but has the usual collection of rogues, tramps and thieves to contend with. There are ATMs, shops, kiosks, a McDonalds and a KFC. It even now has free Wifi. To get to town take an honest taxi from the official taxi station outside (ignore anyone who approaches you inside the station). Currently, only taxis from two reliable Bucharest companies, Meridian and Pelican, are allowed to pick up fares here. If no taxi is waiting, use one of the two touch screens to order one. You can also hop on the metro: you are just one stop away from Piata Victoriei, or take the bus: No. 123 goes to Piata Unirii, No. 85 to Piata Universitatii. Tickets (in the form of a Card Activ) from the kiosk next to the bus stop (itself next to the taxi rank). WARNING: None of Bucharests reputable hostels send people to Gara de Nord to speculatively meet trains. Anyone who approaches you (and if you have just got off the Budapest train and have a backpack, you will be approached) is trying to scam you: they will try and divert you from your intended destination (often by saying that the place you want to go to is closed) towards another hostel or hotel that they will recommend to you. Just ignore anything they say and wave them away.
Public Transport Tickets
To use a bus, trolleybus or tram you will need to buy an Activ Card before climbing aboard. These cards cost 3.70 lei, are valid on all forms of public transport (including the metro) and can be bought from the little kiosks next to major stops. They need to be loaded with credit (minimum 5 lei, maximum 50 lei) and are reusable: you can reload them as many times as needs be. The card is then debited each time you validate it at one of the orange devices located on buses, trams and trolleybuses, or at the entrance to the metro. One trip by surface transport costs 1.30 lei, a metro trip costs 2.00 lei. You can now also buy joint bus and metro tickets, valid not just for one or two journeys but for an unlimited number of journeys over a designated period of time. A 60-minute RATB (bus, tram, trolleybus) and metro ticket costs 5 lei, while a 24-hour ticket (abonament de o zi ) costs 16 lei. Tickets are valid from the moment they are electronically franked on a bus or at a metro station, and must be franked at the start of each journey. Also - and this is a bonus - they are valid until the end of the last journey you make. On all forms of public transport children under the age of seven travel free. After that age they need a full-price ticket.
Metro
Bucharests metro was primarily built to ship workers from the vast housing estates of Titan, Berceni and Militari out to the huge industrial plants at Pipera, IMGB, Republica and Industriilor. Thats all very well if you are resident of Titan working at IMGB, but useless to almost everybody else. The city centre is poorly served by the metro and only the north-south
14
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Train Schedule
From Bucharest To Bucharest Dep Arr. Dep. Arr. ICN 13:00 00:55 ARAD ICN 00:33 12:10 IR 05:52 08:35 BRASOV IR 05:30 08:15 ICN 13:00 15:28 BRASOV ICN 09:42 12:10 IR 15:30 18:10 BRASOV ICN 13:40 16:05 IR 16:45 19:35 BRASOV IR 16:16 19:06 ICN 17:30 20:00 BRASOV IC 20:45 23:09 ICN 13:00 22:22 CLUJ-NAPOCA IC 14:00 23:09 IR 10:15 13:03 CONSTANTA IR 08:30 11:20 IR 17:00 19:48 CONSTANTA IR 16:50 19:39 IR 15:45 18:47 CRAIOVA IR 16:20 19:20 IR 13:40 17:23 GALATI IR 17:40 21:34 IR 16:00 23:06 IASI IR 06:00 13:10 IR 23:00 05:54 IASI IR 23:10 06:15 IR 18:40 07:13 ORADEA IR 19:08 07:48 IR 18:40 09:29 SATU MARE IR 16:50 07:48 IR 10:30 15:38 SIBIU IR 15:01 20:40 ICN 13:00 17:55 SIGHISOARA IC 18:26 23:09 IR 11:10 19:21 TIRGU MURES IR 13:07 21:20 IR 05:45 14:15 TIMISOARA IR 05:45 14:28 IR 15:45 00:20 TIMISOARA IR 14:00 22:45
Schedule checked December 2, 2013. The full Romanian railway timetable is online at www.infofer.ro.
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Tourist Information
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0746 25 29 22. Large, spacious, official tourist information centre. Stocks copies of our guides. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. An unofficial yet very good tourist information point is operated out of the Rembrandt Hotel (C-6; see page 36).
15
Budget B-4, Str. Mihail Moxa 9, tel. (+4) 021 210 28
Info Tourist Center C-5, P-ta Universitatii Underpass,
67, fax (+4) 021 210 29 95, reservations@budgetro.ro, www.budgetro.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobanti 5 - 7 (Howard Johnson Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 201 50 89, Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun and Henri Coanda International Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 16 67, Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Car Rental
All of the major international car hire firms are present in Bucharest, alongside a number of local outfits. You usually need to be over 21 to hire a car in Romania, and to have held a license for at least couple of years.
Cars4Rent Str. Drumul Odaii 1D (Hotel Charter), tel. (+4) 0723 34 71 92/(+4) 0372 99 99 99, fax (+4) 021 352 87 16, office@cars4rent.ro, www. cars4rent.ro. Good car hire from the people behind the Charter Hotel. Q Open 24 hrs. Compact Rent-a-Car A-4, B-dul N. Titulescu 1, bl A7, sc. 1, et. 6, ap. 16, tel. (+4) 0744 58 67 24, (+4) 021 312 98 57, fax (+4) 021 312 99 82, office@compactrentacar.ro, www.compact-rentacar.ro. Q Prices from 18/day. Europcar D-6, Str. Grigore Mora 17, tel. (+4) 021 310 17 97, (+4) 0747 28 06 49, fax (+4) 021 310 17 96, reservations@europcar.com.ro, www.europcar.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Also at Otopeni Airport tel. (+4) 0374 00 40, Open 08:00 - 22:00. Service also available in Cluj, Constanta, Sibiu, Timisoara, Iasi. Hertz A-1, Piata Montreal 10, entrance F, 1st Floor, office 1.20, tel. (+4) 021 407 82 00, reservations@hertz. ro, www.hertz.ro. Q Also at Henri Coanda Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 12 78, Open 08:00 - 22:00. 021 9400, (+4) 0372 37 20 05, reservation@sixt.ro, www.sixt.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.
M2 line, from Pipera to IMGB, which passes through Piatas Victoriei, Romana and Unirii, and the M1 branch to the Gara de Nord, is likely to be of any use to visitors. Tickets are almost as cheap as for the trams and buses: they cost either 4 lei (valid for two trips; doua calatorii) or 15 lei (ten trips; zece calatorii) and can be bought from any metro station. You can also buy tickets valid for one day (abonament de o zi), costing 6 lei. The metro runs from around 05:00 to 23:00.
(One Star Smart Number), (+4) 021 210 43 44, fax (+4) 021 210 69 12, reservations@avis.ro, www.avis.ro. A delivery and collection service is available free of charge within the city limits; the service is on request, and it depends on the availability of the Avis rental office. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (C-5) InterContinental, tel. (+4) 021 314 18 37, Open 08:00 - 20:00; Henri Coanda International Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 19 57, Open 07:00 - 02:00 and Avis Porsche Bucharest North, tel. (+4) 0723 612 011, Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. 33 37 07, (+4) 031 802 22 22, fax (+4) 031 802 22 28, office@bavariarent.ro, www.bavariarent.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at Otopeni Airport, tel. (+4) 021 201 45 34, (+4) 0730 33 37 05, Open 08:00-02:00, Sat 08:00-20:00.
Avis B-dul Theodor Pallady 51, tel. *AVIS (*2847) - OSSN
Bavaria Rent Drumul Garii Otopeni 1B, tel. (+4) 0730
Sixt New Kopel Calea Bucurestilor 201-203, tel. (+4)
Trains
Given that Romanias roads are so bad, its comforting to know that the countrys railways are equally crap. Having said that, many long years of line upgrades on the Bucharest - Brasov and Bucharest - Constanta routes are now approaching completion, and journey times are back to something approaching 1989 levels: two and a half hours to Brasov, slightly more to Constanta. Always try to get an InterCity (IC) or InterRegio (IR) train as they are (just about) the fastest. You will also see trains designated as ICN: these are InterCity trains which stop at a few more stations than usual. Avoid Regio (R-) trains: these are painfully slow. Prices on all types of train are relatively cheap, but are rising fast. An InterCity adult single from Bucharest to Brasov costs 90.50 lei.
Bucharest is well linked to Budapest by train (there are two per day) but poorly to Belgrade, Sofia, Chisinau and Kyiv. To buy train tickets, visit either the station, the CFR agency we list below or buy online at www.cfr.ro/calatori. Your best bet for the purchase of international tickets is Wasteels at the station. In all cases, do not leave buying tickets to the last minute: long queues could mean you miss your train. Tickets cannot be purchased on the train, though in the worst case scenario you can try bribing the guard. Many locals do this habitually. Agentia de Voiaj SNCFR A-4, Calea Grivitei 139, tel. (+4) 021 313 26 42, www.cfr.ro. CFRs advance booking office. Reservations for all kinds of trains. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Wasteels A-4, Gara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 317 03 70/021 300 27 30, www.triptkts.ro. Advance reservations for all types of trains, national and international. Helpful staff, western currencies accepted. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
16
CULTURE & EvENTS

Christmas & New Years Eve
Christmas (Crciun in Romanian) is - despite the country being Orthodox - celebrated on December 25. It is generally considered to be the second most important religious Romanian holiday, surpassed only by Easter (which, in these parts, is a far bigger deal). That said, Romanians probably eat more at Christmas than at any other time of the year and huge, hearty dishes - often prepared days in advance - are eaten throughout the day and night. The Romanian Christmas meal centres on pork, which in the countryside will be a porker sacrificed in the traditional way (by having its throat cut in early December after months of fattening up). Every part of the pig is used, from the meat (roasted) to the organs (used to make drob and piftie). Even the ears and the trotters are often fried as a snack. The thick skin of the pig is also often fried and served up as an appetiser. Minced pork is used to make sarmale (stuffed cabbage rolls): a must at Christmas, while dessert will consist of cozonac, a sweetbread with sultanas, raisins, chocolate or Turkish delight. Lighter, Italian-style pannetones are also increasingly popular. Romanians tend to spend Christmas at home with family. Those (many) people from the provinces who live in Bucharest will head off to the family home for Christmas, which can make the capital feel eerily empty on Christmas and Boxing Day. They return, however, for the biggest party of the year: New Years Eve. While many restaurants close on Christmas Day, the big five-star hotels have become famous for their extravagant Christmas Brunches and Christmas Dinners. In fact, almost all of the citys major hotels will be putting on some kind of Christmas event: many will have festive brunches on the Sundays leading up to the big day too. Incredibly popular, you are advised to book well in advance. Throughout December there are various Christmas gift markets around the city, the biggest of which is in Piata Universitatii. The Hiltons terrace also has a Christmas Market, while at the InterContinental the Paideia Gift Shop is an excellent place to find Romanian gifts. Sala Dalles (see page 28) hosts a good gift market throughout December. Finding something to do or somewhere to go on New Years Eve in Bucharest is not going to be a problem. Almost all of the venues listed in this guide will be holding special events, usually with food and drink included, though note that most will require you buy a ticket in advance: the chances of being able to simply turn up at your chosen location on the night will be few and far between. The most upmarket events are - as with Christmas - at the big hotels, who lay on a number of amazing parties and balls. Some of the hotels have offers that include a cut-price room, so you do not even have to worry about getting home. If you want to enjoy New Years Eve on the streets with revelling locals, head for Piata Constitutiei (in front of Casa Poporului). From around 21:00 you can expect a host of local bands performing live, a fireworks display at midnight and thousands of little idiots setting off firecrackers (known locally as petarde). Be brave.
The Scorpions: Playing Bucharest on December 15th. Bucharest In Your Pocket offers the widest selection of concerts, events, club nights and exhibitions in Bucharest. We in general welcome submissions, so if you have an event you want to publicise, however big or small, you can do so here: absolutely free. Send details of your event to editor@inyourpocket.com.
Rock & Pop Concerts
B-5, Sala Palatului. Legendary Greek singer, now in his late sixties but still well capable of belting out his old hits. Q Starts 20:00. Tickets 50-300 lei from bilete.ro, eventim.ro and Eventim partner outlets, including the Sala Palatului box office and the Humanitas bookstore at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45.
05.12 Thursday Demis Roussos
11.12 Wednesday Morcheeba
B-7, Arenele Romane. British band, mixing influences from trip hop, rock, adult contemporary, and pop. They have produced eight albums since 1995, two of which reached the UK top ten. Q Starts 20:00. Tickets 120-220 lei from bilete.ro, eventim.ro and Eventim partner outlets, including the Sala Palatului box office and the Humanitas bookstore at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45.
Opera & Ballet

The Romanian National Opera (Opera Romana) is at B-5, B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, www. operanb.ro. It serves up a familiar repertoire of classic operas and ballets. Tickets cost from 5.30 - 63.60 lei, and can be purchased online at www.bilet.ro or from the Operas own box office, open 09:00-13:00, 15:00-19:00. While black tie is not compulsory, you are expected to dress smartly. Below is the full opera and ballet schedule for December 2013. Januarys schedule had yet to be published at press time: it should be available on the operas website towards the end of December. December Date Time 07 19:00 08 19:00 14 18:00 15 18:00 19 11:00 19 19:00 21 19:00 22 19:00 Event La Sylphide La Sylphide Faust Faust Hansel & Gretel The Nutcracker The Nutcracker La Boheme Venue ONB ONB ONB ONB ONB ONB ONB ONB
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CUlTURE & EvENTS
Romexpo. Ageing German heavy rockers, one of the best selling bands of all time and yet still probably best known for just one song: Wind of Change. Q Starts 19:00. Tickets 150-400 lei from biletoo.ro.
14.12 Saturday Scorpions
Venues & Tickets

Arenele Romane B-7, Str. Cutitul de Argint 26
(Parcul Carol), MEroii Revolutiei.
15.12 Sunday Jose Carreras
Romexpo. Spanish tenor who is particularly known for his performances in the operas of Verdi and Puccini. Gained fame with a wider audience as one of The Three Tenors along with Plcido Domingo and Luciano Pavarotti. Q Starts 19:00. Tickets 150-650 lei from biletoo.ro and Biletoo partner outlets, including the Sala Palatului box office and the Biletoo shop in Unirea Shopping Centre.
Atheneum (Ateneul Romn) C-5, Str. Franklin 1-3,

MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 25 67, (+4) 021 315 68 75 for tickets, www.fge.org.ro.QOpen 12:00 19:00, Sat 16:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 11:00, 16:00-19:00.
16.12 Monday - 17.12 Tuesday

A-5, The Silver Church. The Day 1 lineup is Cargo, Pseudonoise and Stone Light, while on Day 2 you have Mike Terrana and Trooper. Q Starts 19:00 both days. Tickets 50 lei per day, 80 lei for both days from bilete.ro, eventim.ro and Eventim partner outlets, including the Sala Palatului box office and the Humanitas bookstore at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45. A-5, The Silver Church. American power metal band from Tampa, Florida, formed in 1985 by guitarist and main songwriter Jon Schaffer and originally known as Purgatory. Q Starts 21:00. Tickets 65-75 lei from eventim.ro and Eventim partner outlets, including the Sala Palatului box office and the Humanitas bookstore at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45.
Christmas Rock Fest
biletoo.ro C-6, Piata Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping Centre), MPiata Unirii, www.biletoo.ro. Buy tickets for more or less all events in Bucharest either online at biletoo.ro or at the various outlets around the city: the most central is in Unirea, on the ground floor just inside the entrance next to McDonalds. Romanian National Opera (ONB) (Opera Nationala Romana) A-5, B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72,
MEroilor, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, www.operanb. ro.Q Box office open 09:00-13:00, 15:00-19:00.
28.01 Tuesday Iced Earth
Romexpo B-dul Mrsti 65-67, tel. (+4) 021 207

70 00, www.romexpo.org.
More Live Music

Finding good live music is no longer the problem in Bucharest it once was. In fact, on most nights - especially at the weekend - you will be spoilt for choice. Your first stop for regular live acts should be Mojo in the Old Town (see page 87) which hosts top local bands alongside its resident Mojo Band. Sankt Petersburg (page 85) opposite also has live music a couple of times per week. Club A (page 86) on Strada Blanari, is another decent bet. Outside of the Old Town, Hard Rock Cafe (page 38) Control (see page 60) and Panic (page 62) are known for their range of live music, while Kulturhaus (on page 61) similarly has live bands on most evenings. For live jazz, try Art Jazz Club and Green Hours (see page 62). At Divan (the best Turkish restaurant in the city, see page 79) there is live oriental music and dancing, and a Turkish DJ, every Friday and Saturday night at 21:30.
Sala Palatului B-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 73 72. Q Box office open
Tue-Fri 10:00-19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Sala Polivalenta B-dul Tineretului 1 (Parc Tineretului/ Calea Piscului 10), MTineretului, tel. (+4) 031 425 78 01, www.salapolivalenta.ro.
Sala Radio (Radiodifuziune) B-5, Str. Berthelot

60-64, tel. (+4) 021 314 77 70, www.srr.ro. The National Radio Orchestra is one of the best in the country and happens to have its very own 1950s socialist-looking music hall in the radio building. Q Box office open 09:0018:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The box office remains open until 20:00 on concert evenings.
Silver Church A-5, Calea Plevnei 61, MIzvor, tel.

(+4) 0723 37 90 26, www.tscarena.ro.
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CUlTURE & EvENTS

B-6, Sala Palatului. A dance, music and lights spectacular featuring Impressive displays of traditional Turkish dance. Q Starts 20:00. Tickets 80-300 lei from bilete.ro, eventim.ro and Eventim partner outlets, including the Sala Palatului box office and the Humanitas bookstore at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45. C-5, Ateneu Roman. The Reverend Dwight Robson brings his amazing gospel choir to Bucharest, to perform at the Ateneu no less. Q Starts 19:30. Tickets 100-200 lei from bilete.ro, eventim.ro and Eventim partner outlets, including the Sala Palatului box office and the Humanitas bookstore at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45. Sala Polivalenta. This event has become something of an annual Bucharest tradition, an ice extravaganza featuring more than 30 top Russian skaters, including Igor Bobrin, Natalia Bestemyanova and Andrey Bukin. Q Starts 19:30. Tickets 75-200 lei from eventim.ro and Eventim partner outlets, including the Sala Palatului box office and the Humanitas bookstore at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45.
06.12 Friday Fire of Anatolia
Special Events
Bucharest With Children

Bucharest is not the greatest city in the world to visit with children. The major problem is that the vast majority of the citys museums with a few honourable and notable exceptions - are dull, offer no real inter-activity and little to captivate young kids. The exceptions are the outstanding Village Museum (see page 66), which children love, as they can scurry around the houses, explore and generally be kids without worrying too much about grump security guards telling them off. The confectionery stand at the entrance selling tasty Romanian sweets helps too. The Peasant Museum (see page 66) will please older children, especially those who know a little Romanian history (and note that the Clubul Taranului, around the back of the museum, has puppet shows most weekend mornings at 10:30am and 12pm), while the Geology Museum (see page 70 across the road is also a good choice for families. The other is the excellent Grigore Antipa Natural History Museum, see page 65. We recently took the In Your Pocket kids to the curious little place that is the National Technical Museum at the entrance to Parcul Carol. While very old fashioned and a bit dusty, the kids loved it, as it is packed with models and exhibits of things which are right up their street: trains, cars, engines, jet packs, planes and such like. The Circus Globus (C-3, Parcul Circului) has performances most weekends (morning, afternoon and evening) and is always a hit with kids. You will find details of its performances at the website www.circulglobus.ro. Bucharests Zoo on Aleea Priveghetorilor (turn right at the Academia de Politie) is better than it has been for years. They have a fine collection of exotic birds, and it is a good half-day out for kids. Entrance costs 13 lei for adults, 6.50 lei for kids. The zoo is open daily from 09:00-17:00. And then of course there are the parks. Cismigiu (B-5) and Herastrau (A/B-2) are the best and most central, but Tineretului (take the metro to Tineretului), with its fabulous playgrounds, is also worth exploring. An excellent indoor playground can be found at Funland Romania: a cracking place to take the kids on days when it rains. Featuring perhaps the biggest indoor playground we have seen (15 lei Mon-Fri, 20 lei Sat, Sun), bowling, billiards, arcade games and plenty of space for Mums and Dads to relax and have coffee in, it is a weekend-must. Find it on the fourth floor of the Unirea Shopping Centre in (C-6) Piata Unirii. For kids who want to swim there is Daimon, a good sports club in Parcul Tineretului, where under fives swim for free. There are also pools open to the public at the InterContinental and Hilton hotels, as well as two water parks. For more on Swimming pools in Bucharest see the box on page 92. Oh, and at this time of year ice skating is also an option: there is a good, indoor rink at the AFI Palace shopping centre, as well as outdoor rinks in most of the citys parks, including Cismigiu: see left. Golf Planet, an indoor crazy golf course on Piata Unirii, is another potential destination. Most restaurants in Bucharest are child-friendly, even if the amount of smoke in some of them means that you will probably not want to enter with kids. Those deserving a special mention include the big hotels - all of which have kids entertainers during their fabulous brunches - the Hard Rock Cafe: always happy to see kids, Phill which has a playground, Red Angus, Osho and Vacamuu, all of which have a great kids menu: some offer kids activities at weekend lunchtimes.
09.12 Monday Golden Voices of Gospel
18.12 Wednesday Moscow Stars on Ice
20.12 Friday Vienna Classic Christmas
B-5, Sala Palatului. The Strauss Festival Orchestra featuring soprano Felicia Filip and tenor Robert Nagy. The programme features Christmas favourites from Tchaikovsky, Strauss and Brahms. Q Starts 19:00. Tickets 50-200 lei from biletoo. ro and Biletoo partner outlets, including the Sala Palatului box office and the Biletoo shop in Unirea Shopping Centre.
18.01 Saturday Swan Lake on Ice
C-5, Sala Palatului. The St. Petersburg State Ice Ballet perform Tchaikovskys classic ballet... on ice. Q Starts 19:00. Tickets 200-350 lei from biletoo.ro, eventim.ro and Eventim partner outlets, including the Sala Palatului box office and the Humanitas bookstore at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45.
Ice Skating in Bucharest

The good people of Bucharest love to ice skate, and there are a number of open-air rinks around the city on which you can dream of perfect sixes. The best-known (and most central) is on the lake at (B-5) Gradina Cismigiu. The rink is in fact artificial (the lake is drained each winter) but the setting is fabulous. An hour on the ice here costs around 15 lei (exact prices were unavailable as we went to print), with skate hire costing much the same. It can get busy so you might have to queue. Fortunately, there are mulled-wine sellers on hand to keep you warm. You will also find open air rinks in (B-2) Parcul Floreasca and - probably, we had not received confirmation at press time - in Piata Unirii. All rinks are floodlit and open until very late. If you want to skate indoors, then the AFI Palace Cotroceni shopping centre (see page 26) is the place to go. A modest-sized rink offers 90 minutes skating for 12-17 lei (children) and 14-20 lei (adults). Skate hire costs 15 lei. The rink is open from 10:00-24:00.
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SKI ROMANIA
SKI ROMANIA
23
Poiana Brasov, seen from the top of the Hotel Sport cable car For decades Romania was considered a good-value place for a skiing holiday, with cheap prices offsetting a somewhat limited amount of slopes and an unreliable snow record. These days, alas, it could be argued that the opposite is true. The countrys two biggest resorts - Poiana Brasov and Sinaia - have both spent big money over the past couple of years investing in new lifts and slopes, but the cost of liftpasses and - especially - accommodation mean that neither can any longer be considered budget-destinations. Poiana Brasov especially has become a highly exclusive resort in recent years. Indeed, for good value Romanian skiing these days you are in fact probably far better off heading further afield, to Arena Platos/Paltinis near Sibiu (beginners especially will be happy here). of Sinaias skiing is done at altitude, making it the most snow-sure of the Prahova Valley resorts. Even when the other resorts lack snow, there can often still be plenty of the white stuff up on Sinaias highest slopes. Sinaias skiing is reached either by an old, two-stage cable car, or a newer gondola. The cable car station is behind the Montana hotel, while the gondola lift departs a little further up (it is a bit of a trek if you are walking, especially with skis). Both the gondola and the cable car tip out at 1400 metres, where there is a hotel and a couple of bars and skirental shacks. From there, you can take the second stage of the cable car up to 2000 metres, or a four man chair-lift. Once up at the top, there are two large, relatively easy and wide open ski areas: Valea Dorului and Valea Soarelui. There are also a number of routes back down to Cota 1400: these are some of the toughest slopes in the country. If there is enough snow, there is a route down to the resort from Cota 1400, although it does involve a fair bit of poling in certain places. The biggest problem at Sinaia remains the fact that two different companies operate the cable cars, gondolas and chairlifts, and there is therefore no ski pass covering the whole resort. If you intend to ski all the resorts slopes, you will need to buy two ski passes: one at the gondola (costing 120 lei - 2012-13 prices) and one at the cable car or Valea Dorului chairlift, costing 150 lei. Thats 270 lei for a days skiing, which is just far too expensive. Madness, and a microcosm of the problems Romania still faces before it can call itself a top tourist destination. Lift prices for this year had not been announced as went to press. There is a decent website dedicated to skiing in Sinaia, www.sinaia-ski.ro.
a German architect, build the palace in 1873 as a retreat from the summer heat in Bucharest. After the work was done in 1883, Carol immediately ordered an expansion to be built, finished in 1914. Visitors can view a large collection of European arms from the past five centuries and explore exotic rooms, decorated by artists from all over Europe. Some rooms are meant to be replicas of Turkish and Moorish castle halls, others are simply decorated in German NeoRenaissance style. Tour guides are quick to point out that Peles was the first castle in Europe to have both electricity and central heating. Just up the road is Pelisor Castle (Little Peles), built between 1899 1902 and inhabited by Ferdinand, King Carols cousin, and his wife Marie. Marie had her own idea about how to decorate castles, and set to design Pelisors interior in a simple Art Deco style. Especially impressive is the Golden Room, where gold leaves cover the walls and ceiling.
Sinaia Listings
Hermes Gallery B-dul Carol I 41, Sinaia, tel. (+4) 0344 14 19 29, www.hermesgallery.ro. If you are in Sinaia and in need of gifts - be they for Christmas or any other time of the year - then this is without question the place to come. A superb selection of exquisite goods, from local, hand-made wooden furniture to jewellery, fine food, books, games and childrens toys. Everything you might want, basically. There is also a rather splendid cafe onsite with a terrific range of tea as well as coffee.QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 09:30-15:30. W La Brace Str. Costilei 27, Sinaia, tel. (+4) 0737 57 11
00, www.labrace-restaurant.ro. On the road up to Cota 1400 this is just about the best restaurant in Sinaia. Offering both Italian and Romanian food it serves the best pizza in the resort. Good staff and the spacious interior complete with high ceilings makes it feel suitable mountainous. Great apresski venue it stays open until very late.QOpen 12:00-05:00.
Sinaia
The closest ski resort to Bucharest is Sinaia (alt. 880 metres) less than two hours on the train (even less by car, if the traffic is not too bad) from the capital. Once a quiet monastery settlement in the Prahova Valley, Sinaia became a mountain retreat and resort town with the construction of King Carol Is summer residence Peles Castle in the 1880s. A direct railway connection to Bucharest was subsequently built allowing courtiers easy access to the palace, and the resort quickly became the summer retreat of choice for the Romanian capitals wealthy. A casino was built in 1912, by which time Sinaia was so smart it had become a stop on the Orient Expresss route to Istanbul. As such, there is much to do and see in Sinaia even if downhill skiing never crosses your mind, and is the best choice of Romanian mountain destination for groups which include non-skiers.
Both Peles and Pelisor are open Wednesday 11:1516:15, and Thursday-Sunday 09:15-16:15. Entrance costs 20 lei for adults, 5 lei for children. A guided tour costs 50 lei for adults, 12.50 lei for children. To visit Pelisor costs an extra 20 lei for adults, 5 lei for children. Note that the last tour of Peles begins at 15:15. After that you will only be admitted to the ground floor. The main attraction of Sinaias raison detre, the 17th century monastery (named after the biblical Mount Sinai) is the old church inside the monastery walls, built between 1690 1695. The frescoes in the portal depicting Judgement Day are stunning. On the left, happy believers wait in line to enter paradise, while to the right little devils drag sinners into a river of fire leading to the mouth of a dragon. In the far corner of the monastery, you can enter the Paraclis, a chapel once used by monks for daily services. The frescoes here are more than 300 years old, and the sign on the iconostasis kindly requests visitors not to scratch their names into the valuable walls as you will see, some people just couldnt resist the temptation. Next to the old part of the monastery is the bigger new church, built by monks under the supervision of Abbot Iosaf from 1842-1846. It is a perfect example of Romanian religious architecture which blends certain stylistic elements from Moldavia and Wallachia. This amazing house of worship displays ornately carved oak objects and beautiful Neo-Byzantine gold leaf murals. A small museum and a shop which sells religious icons and literature are also open to the public, although during winter they keep irregular hours. Best to come between 10:00-15:00 and hope for the best.
Busteni
Busteni (alt. 900 metres) is a town similar in size to Sinaia, but lacking most of its better-known rivals charm. As a ski resort, it has little to offer asides from one of the most modern chairlifts in the country, and two relatively long, snow-sure slopes to accompany it. The problem is that there are just the two slopes, which, as you might expect, can get rather crowded. A pass valid for 10 rides on the chairlift costs 110 lei. A pass valid for a days unlimited access to the chairlift and slope cost - for season 2012-13 - 150 lei. There is also a cable car at Busteni (which costs extra: 64 lei return for adults, 36 lei for children), and while it does not offer access to any skiing, it does climb high into the Bucegi mountains. In summer a number of hiking routes begin from here, and close to the top station is The Sphinx: a natural outcrop of rock that bears an uncanny resemblance to the Great Sphinx at Giza. The enormous cross close by (on top of the Caraiman peak, and visible from the valley below) was built from 1926-8 in honour of those soldiers who died defending the railway line from the Austrian and Hungarian armies in World War I. Almost 100 feet (30 metres) high the cross is the largest of its kind in Europe.
Sinaia Sights
You simply cant visit Sinaia without seeing Castle Peles. Perched upon a rolling hill and set against the stark beauty of the Carpathian mountains, this magnificent castle appears to be extracted directly from a Grimm Brothers fairy tale. The first king of Romania, Carol I, visited Sinaia in 1866 to stay at the monastery, and fell in love with the place. Seven years later he bought the grounds and had Wilhelm Doderer,
Sinaia Skiing
First things first: when the weather is good, there is snow in abundance and there are no queues for the lifts, skiing in Sinaia is excellent, and the best in Romania by a long way. Unfortunately, the last time Sinaia enjoyed such blissful conditions was sometime in 1963. (We only half jest). Most
Taverna Sarbului Calea Codrului 39C, Sinaia, tel. (+4) 0244 31 44 00, www.tavernasarbului.ro. There are now T averna Sarbuluis in both Brasov and Bucharest, but this place in Sinaia - right by the gondola - is very much the original, open for well over a decade and still serving huge portions of meaty Serbian food perfect for that post-ski feed. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. bucharest.inyourpocket.com
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SKI ROMANIA
Platos. The best is probably the Perla Paltinisului, whose restaurant is the only real dining option in the resort. You can get to Paltinis and Arena Platos from Sibiu on bus number 22.
SKI ROMANIA
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Getting to the Mountains

The main road to all of the Prahova Valley ski resorts is impossibly busy at weekends, and can be blocked for hours on end during holiday periods. At Busteni - where the road passes through the town - there is a bottleneck which can cause tailbacks as far as Comarnic in one direction, and Predeal in the other. If travelling at busy times you really should therefore think about taking the train. All trains from Bucharest to Brasov stop at Sinaia, Azuga and Predeal. Most also stop at Busteni. To get to Paltinis you first need to get to Sibiu: Tarom has daily flights from 116 return, while there are two daily trains, both of which take more than five hours.
Snow
Given their low altitude, it is no surprise that Romanias ski resorts do not have the best of snow records. The only real snow-sure skiing is at the top of Sinaia in the Valea Dorului and Valea Soarelui, though even here high winds can often close the cable cars and gondola, preventing access. There should usually be enough snow in all the resorts from December until the end of March (sometimes in Sinaia you can ski in May), but recent years have been poor. While most of the resorts have a couple of slopes which have snow-making machines, these only cover beginner and nursery slopes and if they are all thats available, they become horribly crowded. To find out what snow conditions are like, the best source is probably www.snow-forecast.com.
Arena Platos, Paltinis
Azuga
Azuga (alt. 950 meters) is a further eight kilometres up the road from Busteni, and is often overlooked when considering possible Romanian skiing destinations. It is in fact a decent choice for a day on the slopes, and offers two of the longest ski runs in the country (indeed one, Sorica, is said to be the longest piste in the country). Granted, it is not the most extensive ski resort in the world, but the fast gondola lift keeps queues to a minimum, and the ample nursery areas mean that beginners can stay away from the more demanding slopes. A days lift pass costs around 140 lei (this years prices had yet to be published as we went to print).
Predeal
Much like Azuga, Predeal offers limited skiing but is a good choice for a day trip: the resort is easily reached from Bucharest both by car and by train. There are plenty of good places to eat too: two of our favourite restaurants in Romania are in Predeal: Cabana Vanatorilor and Casa Romaneasca. Situated at an altitude of 1107 metres, it is officially the highest town in Romania. There are three main slopes at Predeal, all reached by a relatively new four-man chair lift. Two of the runs are fairly easy, while one, which passes under the chairlift, is far more difficult. There are limited nursery areas at Predeal, which means that the bottom slopes can get very crowded, especially at weekends and holidays. In our experience, we have always found the slopes at Predeal to be the best groomed in the country, often meaning that the snow lasts longer here than elsewhere. Lift passes (last season) cost 94 lei Monday-Friday, 143 lei Saturday-Sunday.
suffered somewhat from over-development. It remains the ski resort of choice for Romanias rich set. There are now 23km of pistes in Poiana, enough to keep a good skier happy for a day or two at a time. Though none of the runs are particularly difficult (the one black run, Lupului, will pose no major problems to a decent skier) some are quite steep, and given that the snow at Poiana can often be very icy, skiing here can sometimes offer something of a challenge. It is beginners who have the best of things at Poiana however, with a large wide nursery slope, and a long easy blue run that descends from the very top of the resort to the bottom. There are also a couple of excellent ski schools. Lift passes remain relatively expensive given the limited skiing. Last winter they cost 135 lei per day for adults, 75 lei for children under six. You can buy them at the gondola station or at the cable car. Poiana is home to one of Romanias best and most famous restaurants: Coliba Haiducilor.
Arena Platos/Paltinis
There are two options for skiers in Paltinis: the first is what is now known as the Old Slope, served by a chair-lift located at the entrance the old part of the resort, while the second is the newer Arena Platos, five kilometres back down the road to Sibiu. A small resort, Arena Platos nevertheless does what it does very well indeed. There are five very short slopes, five drag lifts and while no piste is longer than a couple of hundred metres, for absolute beginners and improvers it is a very good choice. All slopes are covered by snow-making, all are floodlit and open until 10pm, there is a good ski school and ski and snowboard hire is cheap (40 lei adults, 35 lei children) and available right at the foot of the slopes. One-day lift passes cost 55 lei (children 35 lei); 70 lei (children 50 lei) Sat, Sun. The Old Slope (Partia Veche) is, at 2km, the longest of the pistes at Paltinis. It is served by a chairlift, is floodlit and the height of the slope means that it is one of the most snow-sure in the country. Pay as you go, 6 lei for each ride on the chairlift. Paltinis itself is a small resort, made up up mainly of private villas and one big hotel, the Cindrel. A gaggle of newer, smaller pensions and hotels has recently sprung up close to the Arena
Poiana Brasov
The best known Romanian ski resort, Poiana Brasov sits at an altitude of 1030 metres, a short climb up from the city of Brasov (about 20 minutes by car). Its a fabulous spot, home to one of the best restaurants in the country, but has
Peles, Sinaia. A fairytale castle just a couple of hours from Bucharest. See page 22.
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WHAT TO bUY IN bUcHAREST

Souvenir Shops
Besides those listed here you should also take a look at Thomas Antiques (listed on page 73), and the Paideia Gift Shop at the InterContinental hotel (www. cadouriculturale.ro).
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Shopping Centres
AFI Palace Cotroceni B-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul Timisoara, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 031 425 75 10, www.aficotroceni.ro. One of Bucharests biggest malls, with loads of top brand names and the added attraction of an IMAX cinema, a large ice skating rink (open year round) and even an indoor roller coaster and childrens funfair. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30. Baneasa Shopping City os. Bucureti-Ploieti
42D, tel. (+4) 021 305 71 95, www.baneasashoppingcity.ro. The largest mall in Bucharest. With more than 220 shops it makes everywhere else look quite small. Just past the old Baneasa airport you can get here on buses 131 or 301 from Piata Romana. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Restaurants Open 10:00 -23:00.
Galeriile Cuvantul Vietii C-5, Calea Victoriei 28. A vast selection of religious souvenirs, from icons to full sets of priestly robes.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
os. Kiseleff 3, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 317 96 61. An outstanding selection of souvenirs and gifts, most of which are sourced from Romanian peasants.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Muzeul Taranului Roman (Peasant Museum) B-3,
Romartizana B-4, Calea Victoriei 16-20, tel. (+4) 021 313 14 65, www.romartizana.com.ro. Good place to buy traditional souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Souvenir Shop C-5, Str. Smardan 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 32 25 40, www.souvenir-shop. com.ro. Everything you would want from a decent souvenir shop - with both Romania and Bucharest branded gifts available. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Bucuresti Mall E-7, Calea Vitan 55-59, tel. (+4) 021 327 67 00, www.bucurestimall.com.ro. Recently extended in a major redevelopment, this place - when opened in 1999 - was the first mall in the city. Hundreds of shops, including Marks & Spencer and H&M. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Plaza Romania B-dul Timisoara 26, tel. (+4) 021
407 84 75, www.plazaromania.ro. A large mall with plenty of shops, a good multi-screen cinema and loads of food options. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Finding something unique to take home as a souvenir from Romania is not particularly difficult, whether its something as cerebral as a hand-painted glass icon or as predictable as a Dracula t-shirt. There arent all that many souvenir shops (there are simply not that many tourists to justify them), the upside of which is that the souvenirs you come across will usually be of a decent quality: the concept of mass-produced crap for non-discerning tourists has yet to come to Bucharest. A bit like the tourists. Here are a few ideas we have come up with for those of you undecided as to what to take home. Please note that this is designed to be a quick guide to a few, primarily unique items that we think make good souvenirs of a trip to Bucharest (based mainly on the kinds of things we buy as gifts ourselves). It is not meant to be (and makes no pretence at being) a thorough guide to every possible kind of Romanian souvenir and handicraft. If your own particular favourite item has been excluded, we apologise in advance.
Promenada Mall Calea Floreasca 246B, MAurel Vlaicu, tel. (+4) 021 208 29 99, www.promenada. ro. Opened in October 2013, this is currently Bucharests most talked-about mall. Featuring the usual mix of top stores, restaurants and cinemas, there is also a unique rooftop recreation area. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
tel. (+4) 021 386 06 00, www.sunplaza.ro. The only mall in the city right outside a metro station: in this case, Piata Sudului, just three stops from Piata Unirii. All the big name international high street stores are here, as well as a few local outfits. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Food Court Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. P
Sun Plaza Calea Vacaresti 391, MPiata Sudului,
Unirea Shopping Centre C-6, Piata Unirii 1,
Bucharest Monopoly
We have long said that this should be the first thing on any list of must-have Romanian souvenirs. The classic board game as you know and love it (or otherwise) given a local twist. The streets of London have been replaced with the streets of Bucharest. The cheapest property on the board is Rahova, while the most expensive is Bulevardul Primaverii. Found in most good toy shops and larger supermarkets and hypermarkets, it sells for around 110 lei.
M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 303 02 08, www. unireashop.ro. What was once Romanian socialisms showpiece department store is now a good shopping centre in the heart of the city. There are fashion stores on the first and second floors while the electronics and household appliance shops on floors three and four are also worth a visit. An excellent Mega Image supermarket can be found in the basement. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
blackcurrant-tinged Feteasca Neagra (red), Feteasca Alba (white), Feteasca Regala (white) and the aromatic, honeylike Tamaioasa Romaneasca (white). Our personal favourites (and we repeat, these are favourites: we are not claiming that they are Romanias best wines) include the Chardonnay and Feteasca Regala based brut from the Halewood/Prahova Valley winery, the Tamaioasa Romaneasca on the Domeniile Tohani label, and the semi-sweet red Rai de Murfatlar, a Cabernet Sauvignon from Murfatlar. Also worth looking out for is Busuioac de Bohotin, which, while too sweet for many tastes is a unique wine and one of few roses made in Romania. Another somewhat
Specialist Wine Stores

BvS Wine Bar & Shop C-6, Str. Covaci 19, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 31 00 580, www.bvswines.ro. Super little place on the edge of the Old Town run by the same people as the Van Gogh Cafe. Its a wine bar and shop where you can find a fine selection of self-imported wines, tasting them all before you buy. You can also just pop in for a glass or two, although in our experience once weve sat down at this charming place we tend not to get up again until closing time. QOpen 14:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 01:30.
unique Romanian wine is Lacrima lui Ovidiu, a bold, strong, yet sweet and syrupy wine from Murfatlar, made from grapes harvested deliberately late. Other labels which can usually be taken as a sign of quality include Davino from Dealul Mare, Stirbey and Jidvei (especially its Feteasca Regala), Corcova and Domeniul Coroanei. Perhaps our absolute favourite wine, however (at the moment) is the Merlot sold on the Vitis Metamorfosis label, a joint venture between Halewood and Marchesi Antinori. With prices usually reflecting quality, you are advised to spend as much as possible when choosing a Romanian wine. The good news is that you will rarely have to spend much: prices remain relatively low and should stay so given the increasing abundance of great choice.
Religious Icons
The Romanian Orthodox church may have its critics but few can dispute the richness of its artistic heritage. The countrys churches - even newly built ones - are usually wonderfully decorated, many boasting superb interior frescoes. A deeply religious people, the vast majority of Romanian homes will boast at least a couple of icons on the walls, usually featuring a favoured saint or the Virgin Mary. It is therefore relatively easy to find icons around Bucharest, but be careful, as quality varies greatly. The best icons to take home as souvenirs are those which are hand-painted onto glass, often colourfully framed. You will find this kind of icon at leading souvenir shops (such as those at the Hanul cu Tei in the Old Town), as well as at the shops at the Peasant and Village Museums. There is also a huge religious souvenir shop at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 28, just past Pizza Hut, the Galeriile Cuvantul Vietii. It sells not just icons but bibles, religious books and art.
Romanian Wine
Romanian wine is generally excellent, and there is a wide variety of good, reliable labels to choose from. The story of the Romanian wine industry is a long and complicated one. In short, it was very good, then the communist regime ruined it through under-investment and over-production, and now, back in private hands, it is improving apace. Almost two per cent of Romanias total agricultural land is given over to vineyards, making Romania one of the worlds top 10 wine
producers. As a general rule the best whites are made in the north and in Transylvania, while the countrys best reds are made in the south. There are many exceptions, however. The best known wine making regions in Romania are Dobrogea (reds) and Murfatlar (which makes good reds and decent whites) in the south east, Dealul Mare around Buzau (which makes excellent reds, probably the countrys best, in fact), Tarnava in central Transylvania (whites) and Cotnari (whites) in Moldova. In the west, the deep reds of the Recas vineyards have an increasingly loyal following. While Romania grows (very well) international varieties of grape from Sauvignon Blanc to (some extraordinarily good) Merlot, the country also boasts a number of excellent native grapes. The best local varieties are probably the noble,
Ethic Wine C-3, Str. Banu Antonache 55, tel. (+4) 0722 63 37 89, www.ethicwine.ro. Wonderful wine shop, run by a friendly Englishman and his lovely wife, both of whom really know their stuff. There is a wide range of local grape, as well as a good selection of wines from Cricova in the Republic of Moldova. QOpen 13:00 21:00, Mon 15:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. bucharest.inyourpocket.com
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WHAT TO BUY IN BUCHAREST

Bucharest Bookshops
Anthony Frost English Bookshop B-4, Calea Victoriei 45, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 51 38, www. anthonyfrost.ro. Stocks a good range of fiction, an exceptional range of non-fiction, plenty of childrens books, and a decent selection of books about Romania and Bucharest. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Local Designers
A pair of handmade shoes from Romanias top shoe designer, Mihaela Glavan, may not be the cheapest of souvenirs, but they will certainly be unique. All of Glavans designs can be customised: visit her showroom at (C-5) Str. Benjamin Franklin 9, tel. (+40) 722 52 52 72. For clothes by local designers, check out the huge Romanian Designers Gallery on the second floor of the Cocor Department Store, at (C-6) B-dul Ion Bratianu 29-33. You will find a wide range of designs by many of Romanias best designers.
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Crturesti C-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, tel.

(+4) 021 317 34 59, www.carturesti.ro. Marvellous bookshop, gallery and small cafe, with good selection of English books. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Bucharest Markets
Bucharests markets are by and large a shadow of their former selves, although the two below are well worth a visit. You should also note that throughout December there are various Christmas gift markets around the city, the biggest of which is in Piata Universitatii. The Athenee Palace Hilton is also this year hosting a market, a German/Austrian Christkindlmarkt where you can warm yourself with a Gluhwein and munch on Schmalzkuchen. Also look out for occasional arts, crafts, peasant and antiques markets at the Peasant Museum: these are usually held once a month.
Humanitas Kretzulescu B-4, Calea Victoriei 45,

MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 50 35, kretzulescu@ humanitas.ro, www.libhumanitas.ro. Large bookshop selling a wide range of both Romanian and foreign language books. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Sala Dalles C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 18, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 52 60, www.carti-anticariat. ro. A good bookshop with a large exhibition space out back that often hosts book and gift fairs. Always has a decent selection of books in English. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Romanian Art
Look out for craft fairs being held at the citys better museums in order to find some gorgeous naive art. The Peasant Museum hosts regular such fairs, although not every weekend: you will simply have to get lucky. Suvenir de Bucuresti, a small art gallery specialising in classic scenes of Bucharest and Romania always has a great selection of paintings for sale: find it on (C-5) Strada Academiei. For those with more contemporary tastes, head for the Zorzini Gallery on (C-5) Strada Thomas Masaryk. The gallery represents three of Romanias leading contemporary artists: Nicolae Comanescu, Andrei Gamart and Oana Lohan. Galateca on (C-5) Strada C.A. Rosetti is a gallery of applied art, housed in the rather splendid University Library on Piata Revolutiei. Its NeoGalateca shop sells fashion, accessories and designer objects from a number of top local designers.
Piata Obor E-4, Piata Obor, MObor. Bucharests most famous market. Colourful, huge, and always lively, it is not what it once was: where once you could buy almost anything here, it is now a strictly meat, dairy produce, fruit and vegetable market. A good one though. Watch your wallet. QOpen 06:00 - 20:00.
Unirii. Every Sunday morning this place becomes Bucharests biggest and busiest flea market. Its mayhem. More or less everything you can imagine can be found here, all prices negotiable. Bus 123 from Piata Unirii will get you here. Q Open 08:00-16:00. Closed Mon-Sat.
Targul Vitan-Barzesti Sos. Vitan-Barzesti/Splaiul
Casa Frumoasa
A network of stores around the city selling only the biggest names in high fashion: T om Ford, Scabal, Brioni, Salvatore Ferragamo, Loro Piana, Jacob Cohen etc. Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand), tel. (+4) 0731 03 65 63, www.casafrumoasa.ro. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Casa Frumoasa Radisson B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 0723 33 17 31, www.casafrumoasa.ro. QOpen 10.00 - 21.00, Sat 10.00 - 19.00, Sun 10.00 - 17.00. Casa Frumoasa Store B-4, B-dul Lascar Catargiu 40, (+4) 0733 73 59 30, www.casafrumoasa.ro. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Elegance Boutique B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 0722 45 48 82, www. elegance-paris.ro. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. J. Kristensen Store Bucuresti B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 0724 35 30 06, j.k.bucharest@casafrumoasa.ro. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Casa Frumoasa JW Marriott B-6, Calea 13
Traditional Clothing
While all of Romanias regions have their own traditional designs (a bit like Scottish clans have their own tartan) the basic components of Romanian traditional costume are much the same across the country. Blouses, shirts, trousers and skirts are usually (although not always) plain white (often intricately embroidered), with colour being provided by the accessories: waistcoats (for both men and women), aprons, scarves, hats and fabric belts. Traditional shirts and blouses are probably the most commonly found souvenirs, but look out too for the long, thin classic apron, called a catrinta, and the wrap-around skirts known as fota. Hats too make great souvenirs, both the winter kind caciula and the straw clop, usually decorated with ribbon or fabric. If you are really lucky you might even come across traditional peasant shoes, opinci. The best place to find traditional Romanian clothing is probably the shop at the Peasant Museum, where although prices are relatively high, quality is equally good, and everything will be the genuine article.
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WHERE TO STAY
Cream of the Crop
Athenee Palace Hilton C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com. Simply put, this has been one of Bucharests finest hotels for almost a century. It is a living piece of the citys history - it dates from 1914 - and yet inside its historic facade you will find a most modern place to stay. There is a wide range of rooms to choose from: the best are those with views over Piata Revolutiei. Indoor pool and health club, terrific onsite dining and of course this is the home of the English Bar: probably Bucharests most famous bar. Q 272 rooms. Prices from 1000-5500 lei. Prices do not include breakfast and VAT (9%). POTHR6UFLGKDCW Carol Parc Aleea Suter 23-25, tel. (+4) 021 336 33 77, www.carolparchotel.ro. Luxurious, certainly, but offering something a bit different to the bigger players, the Carol Park is coquette and secluded: you have to know about this place, as you do not find it by chance. A gorgeous place where the finest things are offered to all who pass through its doors, expect only fine, classic furnishings and very personal service. International stars who value discretion above all else tend to stay here when visiting Bucharest. Q 17 rooms. Prices from 120-515. Prices include breakfast. VAT and taxes not included. PHRLGKW Crowne Plaza Bucharest A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1, tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.crowneplaza.com/bucharest. Contemporary and welcoming, the Crowne Plaza Bucharest offers all the reassuring global standards you would expect of the brand. With a renowned reputation for individual and friendly service, the hotel can also offer the greenest setting in the capital. Can also boast a large swimming pool, big, comfortable rooms (and bathrooms to match) and some outstanding drinking and dining options. Q 164 rooms. Prices from 690-2100 lei . Extra bed 120 lei. Prices include breakfast. VAT not included. PTHRUFGKDCW
32 32, www.hotelepoque.ro. Now heres a hotel we have no problem in recommending. Opened during the Autumn of 2010 the Epoque has a number of things going for it, not least its location on the edge of Cismigiu Park: close enough to the heart of the city yet at the same time offering the impression of a retreat. Rooms are large and tastefully furnished, there are plenty of extras (not least a plunge pool), breakfast is good and for what you get, the prices are a steal. Q 44 rooms. Prices from 160-410. Extra bed on request in the apartment. Prices include local taxes. Breakfast and VAT not included. PTHRUFLGKDCW
WHERE TO STAY
Grand Hotel Continental C-5, Calea Victoriei 56, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. Making the very best of a wonderful building (which dates from 1886) on chic Calea Victoriei, todays Grand Hotel Continental is the result of more than two years of loving renovation and restoration. Theres marble at every turn, though do not think that modern touches are missing, for they are not. The audio-visual systems in the rooms for example are state of the art. For the great location and for a change from the big chains, its well worth trying out. Q 59 rooms. Prices from 280-800. Breakfast, VAT and local taxes included. PTHR6UFLGKDW
Calea Dorobantilor 5-7, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 00, www.hojoplaza.ro. This is a high-rise hotel in the busy centre of Bucharest, where the sleek, modern exterior is matched by the interiors, all of which carry the signatures of top-name designers. The breakfast is perhaps the best in the city, coming as it does with champagne (for those who enjoy such things in the morning), and the dining opportunities in general are excellent: there is a wonderful Japanese restaurant, Benihana, on site. To really get the best out of this place though, ask for a room on one of the upper floors, for the views over the city. Q 285 rooms. Prices from 135-385. Prices do not include breakfast, VAT or taxes. POTHR6UFLGKDW
Howard Johnson Grand Plaza Bucharest Hotel B-3,
Epoque B-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C, tel. (+4) 021 312
InterContinental C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 2-4, MUni-
versitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20, www.intercontinental. com/bucharest. Still the tallest hotel in Bucharest (complete with a swimming pool and - during the summer, sun terrace - on the top floor) the InterContinental was the first major five star hotel to open in Romania, at the beginning of the 1970s. Today it is one of many but remains something of a first choice for journalists and business people, many of whom have been loyal guests for decades. The rooms here all boast big balconies with great views of the city, there is first class dining in the building, and the management is commendably hands-on. The new Club Lounge on the 21st floor is the best in the city, offering great views of Bucharest, cocktails, meeting rooms, internet, a library and an all round exclusive atmosphere. Non-guests can use the Club Lounge for 35 per day. Its open 06:30-22:30. Q 257 rooms. Prices from 115-291 (December), 131-271 (January). Prices include breakfast, but not local taxes (9%). POTHR6FLGKDCW
JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90, tel. (+4) 021 403 00 00, www.jwmarriottbucharest.com. To the south of Casa Poporului the JW Marriott occupies something of a palatial building that at first glance probably makes it the most immediately impressive of Bucharests Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com
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WHERE TO STAY
big five star hotels. The scale of the place, and its cavernous interiors, betray the fact that it was built as part of the same grand plan as the Casa Poporului itself. Yet the rooms are homely and well-furnished, providing a welcome contrast to the building. Plenty of good dining options, and home to the biggest swimming pool in the city (we think).Q 401 rooms. Prices from 485-5000 lei. Extra bed on request in the apartment. Prices do not include breakfast and VAT. POTHR6UFLGKDCW
WHERE TO STAY
Radisson Blu B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) 021
311 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bucharest. A gleaming temple of steel and glass amongst the more classical buildings of Calea Victoriei, the Radisson excels in playing the role of futuristic Bucharest hotel of choice. As you walk in the glass bar strikes you as daring and modern, and the rooms themselves are equally avant garde in design. Bathrooms offer both tubs and showers, and there is both an indoor and outdoor pool, so you can swim whatever the weather. Excellent restaurants, especially the sublime Prime Steaks and Seafood. Q 718 rooms. Prices from 500-8500 lei. Prices include breakfast (except single, double and extra bed rates). PHRUFLGKDCW
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Novotel Bucharest City Centre B-4, Calea Victoriei 37B, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 308 85 00, www. novotel.com. Few locations are better than this, right on fashionable Calea Victoriei. The entrance is impressive: a replica of the old neoclassical National Theatre which stood on this exact site until the British bombed it to next week during the Second World War. Shiny and new the main part of the hotel is wonderful: rooms are big, with bathrooms particularly impressive. Excellent, lively lobby bar and a big indoor swimming pool are other added benefits of staying here. Q 258 rooms. Prices from 65 -200. Extra bed on request in the apartment. Prices do not include breakfast, VAT or taxes. POTHR6UFLGKDCW Pullman Bucharest World Trade Center A-1, P-ta
Montreal 10, tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com. The spacious, luxurious rooms are the main attraction at this high rise in the north of the city, where the bathrooms boast perhaps the deepest bathtubs in the city. There are separate showers, and all in all we think that the square-meterage-per-euro ratio is higher here than anywhere else in Bucharest. A good on-site steak house keeps you well fed, and though there is no pool there is a good fitness centre with sauna and massage available. Q 203 rooms. Prices from 205-800. Extra bed 20. Prices do not include VAT, local taxes and breakfast. PTHR6UFLGKDW
Over 150
Alexander Sos. Pipera-Tunari 1/VI, tel. (+4) 021 569 51 10/(+4) 021 569 51 19, www.alexanderhotel.ro. Big, plush hotel close to Bucharests high-rise business district of Pipera. Rooms are all well-sized and impeccably furnished and come with a host of extras. The bathrooms are particularly luxurious. The hotel has a good little spa centre with sauna, Turkish bath and jacuzzi. Great breakfast - which is amongst the citys best - included in the price of your room. Q 73 rooms. Prices from 160-380. Prices include breakfast, VAT and local taxes. PiHRFLKDW Cismigiu C-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 403 05 00, www.hotelcismigiu.ro. One of the most famous hotels in Bucharest (there is even a song about the place: Hotel Cismigiu, by Vama Veche) reopens its doors after being closed for almost two decades. In a fantastic location right in the heart of the city, millions have been spent making the hotel look better than at any time in its century-old history. The contemporary rooms - all
of which are in fact suites - are enormous, many even boasting kitchens. Theres a fitness centre, wifi throughout, a great breakfast is included and there is even onsite parking. Worth every penny. Q 60 rooms. Prices from 210-270. Extra bed 30. Prices include breakfast, VAT and local taxes. PTHRUFLGKW Romana, tel. (+4) 021 319 44 44, www.hotelmarshalgarden.ro. Spacious, colourful and original, this hotel - located in one of the best addresses in the city - is a fantastic place and one of few new Bucharest hotels to really perk up our attention. The decor is amazing: bright, full of multi-coloured arabesques each floor has a different mood, while the mural behind reception is alone worth popping in to see. Good staff, big rooms, modern bathrooms, smashing breakfast, free Wifi. Its worth the money. Q 63 rooms. Prices from 70-270. Prices include breakfast, VAT and local taxes. PTHUFLGKDW 021 300 05 45, www.nh-hotels.com. Not located in the most attractive area of the city, the NH makes up for that by offering a modern, contemporary hotel experience for a fair amount of money: you can usually stay here for far less than the rack rates. Expect well sized rooms with plenty of extras and a very good on site restaurant. Good place to stay with children and babies: the staff make a point of making them feel welcome. Q 76 rooms. Price 150. Prices include VAT. Breakfast not included. PTHRUFLGKW
ence: many of the rooms have jacuzzis in their bathrooms and are packed with luxuries such as the huge, high double beds, which are among the best weve come across in Bucharest. Q 56 rooms. Prices from 100-170. Extra bed 20. Prices include VAT and breakfast. PHRUGKW
Marshal Garden C-4, Calea Dorobanti 50B, MPiata
Ramada Bucharest Parc A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel. (+4) 021 549 20 00, www.ramadabucharestparc.ro. The Hotel Parc has been around a while, but only came under the Ramada banner a short while ago. A high-rise in a leafy suburb (close to Romexpo and Herastrau Park - hence the name) it boasts nice rooms which - while not big - are comfortable and boast brightly coloured dcor and gorgeous, soft cotton sheets on the beds. Great buffet breakfast included in the price. Q 267 rooms. Prices from 139-210. Prices include breakfast. PHRGKW Ramada Majestic B-4, Calea Victoriei 38-40, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 27 72, www.ramadamajestic.ro. Standing (dare we say it) majestically on Calea Victoriei, the Majestic has long been one of Bucharests best hotels. It offers very big rooms with glorious bathrooms, a great breakfast and - a real bonus - a swimming pool (albeit a rather small one). In a city in which even some of the five star hotels lack pools, the Majestics makes it well worth that little bit extra cash. Q 111 rooms. Prices from 240-1200. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHRUi FLGKDCW Ramada Plaza Bucharest B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel. (+4) 021 549 30 00, www.ramadaplazabucharest.ro. Slightly more upmarket than its sister establishment across the road, what you get here is a slightly bigger room than at the Parc, and much bigger bathrooms. The design of the place is nicely futuristic, and we loved the beds which we think are December 2013 - January 2014
NH Bucharest D-6, B-dul Mircea Voda 21, tel. (+4)
Parliament A-6, Str. Izvor 106, tel. (+4) 021 411 99 90,
www.parliament-hotel.ro. So named because it is located behind Romanias parliament building, Casa Poporului, which you can see from almost all of the rooms. This hotel has been around for a decade now and offers a four/five star experi-
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WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO STAY
35
the Central was totally renovated last year and is now one of the best (and best value) stays in the city. We like the staff who are always friendly, and who go out of their way to make sure you do not get ripped off by dodgy taxi drivers: such attention to detail is to be applauded. Q 62 rooms. Prices from 140-180. Extra bed 20. Prices include all taxes and breakfast. PTHR6UGW
services. There are little touches of class all over the hotel that suggest they really care. The wrought iron beds, for example, are fabulous, as is the newly added spa, complete with sauna and jacuzzi. The restaurant is also worth a visit, serving good international cuisine. Q 35 rooms. Prices from 90-120. VAT not included. Prices include breakfast. PTHRLGKDW nescu 33, tel. (+4) 021 224 50 44/(+4) 0372 15 06 00, www.residencehotels.com.ro. A wonderful villa, this place offers real luxury and a quiet, understated atmosphere. Its a classy place for classy people, basically. All the rooms, studios and apartments are bright, big and have stunning bathrooms. It also has a fantastic spa, complete with sauna, steam bath and enormous jacuzzi, perfect for tired business types in need of evening relaxation. The rooftop terrace has fine views of what is the citys best residential area, and the food in the restaurant better than most of Bucharests restaurants: it is really that good. Q 33 rooms. Prices from 90-120. Prices include breakfast. VAT not included. PTHRLGKDW
Duke C-4, B-dul Dacia 33, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4)
amongst the best in Bucharest. Free Wifi is a bonus, there is a good lobby bar and a decent on site bistro. Good value for the money. Q 298 rooms. Prices from 159-270. Prices include breakfast. PHRUFGKW
Z Executive Boutique Hotel C-5, Str. Ion Nistor 4,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 140 02 00, www.zhotels. ro. You want central? Well this place is central. In a building on a street hidden a little behind the Sutu Palace this is a great place from which to enjoy the delights of Old Town and indeed the whole of central Bucharest. Rooms are big and modern, tastefully furnished and come with comfortable beds and good bathrooms. Plenty of little luxuries, not least full, free Wifi throughout. The breakfast room is great, and theres an on site bistro with great views of the busy streets outside. Q 21 rooms. Prices from 99-129. Extra bed 20. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHR6ULGKW
rooms that come complete with what have to be contenders for the best bathrooms in the city prize we often mention but never get round to handing out. In good weather the terrace at the back is a great place to take your breakfast (included in the price of a room). Q 32 rooms. Prices from 65-75. Extra bed 10. Prices include VAT, all taxes and breakfast. PHRLGKW 425 58 60/(+4) 0771 65 40 09, www.hotelberthelot. ro. Smart, modern and dead central. What more could you want? For your money you are getting a good deal here: the rooms are big and well furnished with plenty of mod cons, such as LCD televisions, while the bathrobes in the sumptuous bathrooms are suitably fluffy and the cosmetics a cut above the norm. Q 43 rooms. Prices from 109-129. Extra bed 20. Prices include VAT, all taxes and breakfast. PTHRLGKW
021 317 41 86/(+4) 021 317 41 87, www.hotelduke. ro. Now this place is central. A proverbial stones throw from Piata Romana, this modern hotel is squeezed in to a tight spot between two classic Bucharest buildings of the past. Rooms are well-sized, bathrooms have tubs and showers, and theres free and fast Wifi throughout. Beds get high marks for their excellent mattresses.Q 37 rooms. Prices from 75-145. Extra bed 20. Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRGKW
Residence Domenii Plaza A-2, Str. Al. Constanti-
Opera B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 37, tel. (+4) 021 312 48
Berthelot B-5, Str. General Berthelot 9, tel. (+4) 031
55, www.thhotels.ro. You could quite literally throw a stone from the rooms here into Cismigiu Park (though we do not recommend it), and as such we think this is a great place for families with children to stay when visiting the capital. Not cheap, we think that you get value for money, especially given the size of the rooms and the terrific breakfast spread they lay on every morning for guests. Staff happy and smiley too. Q 33 rooms. Prices from 130-170. Prices include all taxes and breakfast. PTHR6UGKW
Under 100
Andy A-4, Str. Witing 2, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 300 30 50, www.andyhotels.ro. You can see Gara de Nord from your bedroom window if you stay here: you can decide for yourself if thats good or bad. Its a decent hotel, especially compared to those surrounding it, and if you are in two minds as to which station hotel to stay in, make sure you choose this one. It even has a sauna and jacuzzi. Q 49 rooms. Prices from 30-50. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PR6GKDW
Residence Arc de Triomphe A-3, Str. Clucerului 19,
tel. (+4) 021 223 19 78/(+4) 0372 15 07 00, www. residencehotels.com.ro. Fantastic hotel in a good area of the capital, offering large, excellent value rooms and super
100-150
Angelo Airporthotel Bucharest Calea Bucurestilor
283, tel. (+4) 021 203 65 00, www.angelo-bucharest. com. The hotel closest to Bucharests Otopeni airport. The Angelo is operated by Vienna International Hotels & Resorts, and its bright exterior is matched by the interior: bold colours abound in all the rooms and the common areas. There is high speed Wifi throughout, and a fitness centre complete with sauna. Transport to and from the airport is complimentary. Great buffet breakfast. Q 177 rooms. Prices from 100-150. Prices include VAT, local taxes and breakfast. PTHR6UFLGKDW 77, www.hotelarmonia.ro. Not altogether that inviting from the outside, the Armonia offers terrific (though not all that big)
Capital Plaza B-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54, tel. (+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.capitalplaza.ro. Looking for the business traveller not wanting to pay five star prices, one of the best hotels in the city is this smart place at the northern end of the city centre, about five minutes walk from Piata Victoriei. The rooms are big and furnished in a modern style, with unobtrusive colours and smart lines. Bathrooms are good, and the range of free cosmetics is impressive. Top onsite restaurant too, the 1880. Q 95 rooms. Prices from 90-150. Prices include breakfast and VAT. PTHRUi FLGKW Central B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 56 36, www.thhotels.ro. Central by name, central by nature. Slap, bang on Bucharests version of Broadway (its all relative), amongst cinemas and theatres, bucharest.inyourpocket.com bucharest.inyourpocket.com December 2013 - January 2014
Armonia D-4, Calea Mosilor 112, tel. (+4) 021 312 04
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WHERE TO STAY
DoubleTree by Hilton D-7, Str. Nerva Traian 3A, tel. (+4) 021 200 62 70, www.doubletree.com. Located just off Bulevardul Unirii, the DoubleT ree is something of a beacon of glass and steel in an area not known for anything except monumental socialist architecture. The hotel is a decent place offering big-ish rooms, with commendably big bathrooms. Happy, multi-lingual staff are a bonus not always found in Bucharests hotels. Good cafes (there are two) to choose from on the ground floor: one has a covered terrace. Q 87 rooms. Prices from 115-250. Prices include local taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHRUFLGKDW Europa Royale Bucharest C-6, Str. Franceza 60, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 319 17 98, www.europaroyale. com. The Europa Royale is a gorgeous place that complements instead of overpowering its surroundings. Literally a stones throw from where Bucharest began, at the Curtea Veche, facing Piata Unirii, it is as ideally located as you ever hope for. Inside the rooms are big, classy and we found the staff exemplary. A genuinely welcome addition to Bucharest and the Old Town, and not as pricey as you might think. Q 92 rooms. Prices from 85-200. Extra bed 20. Breakfast, VAT and local taxes included. PTH6UGKW
WHERE TO STAY
37
Golden Tulip Times E-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Mun-
Golden Tulip Victoria B-4, Calea Victoriei 166, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 212 55 58, www.goldentulipbucharest.com. A pleasant walk to both Piata Victoriei and Piata Universitatii, the Golden T ulip is a fine hotel that makes great use of the space available. The bathrooms for example are not huge but feel far bigger than they are, and all have enough room for bathtubs. Bright and modern in design we think its suited best to business travellers looking to get great value for their companys dollar. Q 81 rooms. Prices from 85-105. Prices include VAT, all taxes and breakfast. PTHRUFLGKW Boutique Hotel Monaco C-5, Str. J. L. Calderon 74, tel. (+4) 021 310 56 68, www.hotelmonaco.ro. A nice place on a quiet(ish) street yet still close enough to the city centre to be within walking distance. There is an elegance to the decoration that suggests theyve taken real time and effort over things, and the beds are large, comfortable and covered with crisp yet soft sheets. Wifi, flatscreen TVs, good bathrooms. The kind of place you feel should cost a lot more than it does: seriously good value for money. Q 8 rooms. Prices from 50-65. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTLW
tel. (+4) 021 208 61 00, www.carohotel.ro. The Caro is in fact three hotels in one: the Caro Golf, a four-star establishment offering very swish rooms, the Caro Parc: one of the best three-stars in the city, and the outstanding value budget twostar Caro Horoscop. All three offer bright rooms with excellent bathrooms, and there is terrific buffet breakfast in the Belvedere restaurant. The surroundings are leafy and yet the citys business district is just across the street. There is free wifi at the Caro Golf. Q 188 rooms. Prices from 57-150. Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTH6UFLKDCW
cii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16, www.goldentuliptimes.com. This, people, is a very good hotel where you get a hell of a lot of room for a relatively small amount of money. All come furnished well with terrific beds, big desks and comfy armchairs. Bathrooms are equally impressive and modern. There is Wifi throughout and a host of extras: not least of which is the fantastic breakfast. The on site restaurant is one of the best hotel-based eateries in the city.Q 70 rooms. Prices from 78-98. Extra bed 29. Prices include VAT, all taxes and breakfast. PTHRLGKW
given a real lift when it became a good old Ibis some several years ago now. Expect a room a bit bigger than standard Ibis size, the usual services, few frills (breakfast costs extra) and all in all a good value stay. The name is not misleading: it is dead opposite the station. Q 250 rooms. Prices from 49-79. Prices include VAT and local taxes. Breakfast not included. (9 per person). PHR6ULGKW
Ibis Palatul Parlamentului B-6, Str. Izvor 82-84, tel.
tel. (+4) 0372 12 18 00, www.hellohotels.ro. Two stars never looked so good. For your paltry amount of cash you are getting a lot of hotel room here, complete with flat screen televisions and mattresses thicker than many a five-star. Bathrooms are a bit pokey but they are more than adequate, and as far as value for money goes we think this is one of the best deals in the city. Find the place a short walk from the station. Q 150 rooms. Prices from 33-69. Prices include VAT and taxes. Breakfast not included. PR6ULGKW
Hello Hotels B-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara de Nord,
(+4) 021 401 10 00, www.ibishotels.ro. If you want a view of Casa Poporului then this is perhaps the best place in Bucharest to come. Other than that it is a fairly standard Ibis hotel, just as you love them from anywhere else on the planet. Not entirely ideally located if you are not driving, it does boast non-smoking rooms and very good staff. Q 161 rooms. Prices from 49-95. Prices include VAT and local taxes. Breakfast not included. (9 per person). PTHR6ULGKW
Caro C-1, B-dul Barbu Vcrescu 164A, MAurel Vlaicu,
Hotel Nonna Mia C-3, Str. Chile 10, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 021 231 22 83/(+4) 0728 60 22 83, www.nonnamia. ro/hotel-nonnamia. A bed and breakfast with an Italian twist (the fantastic restaurant on the ground floor). Homely rooms with bags of character, good bathrooms and kitchenettes. Add in great staff and a quiet location and you have one of Bucharests real bargains. We love the place. Q 6 rooms. Prices from 40-50. Prices include breakfast, VAT and local taxes. Ibis Gara de Nord A-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara de
Nord, tel. (+4) 021 300 91 00, www.ibishotels.ro. A hotel for more than 40 years this building (and the whole area) was
tel. (+4) 021 311 15 55, www.minerva.ro. Having been around so long the Minerva is entitled to a gold watch, it remains a great choice for business people who pay their own bills: you get great service, a good room (a choice of smoking or non-smoking), a dead-central location yet are only asked for a fraction of what the five-stars charge. The oldest Chinese restaurant in Romania is located on the ground floor, there is a lively bar and a good spa, complete with jacuzzi, sauna, Turkish bath and massage. Q 147 rooms. Prices from 75-111. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PHRFGKDW
Minerva B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, MPiata Victoriei,
Ramada Hotel & Suites Bucharest North C-6, Str.

Daniel Danielopolu 44A, tel. (+4) 021 233 50 00, www. ramadanorth.ro. Well located in a quiet residential area near Herastrau park. It has great rooms - amongst the biggest, on
Charter Drumul Odaii 1D, Otopeni, tel. (+4) 021 352 87 19, www.hotelcharter.ro. For what you pay at this hotel, you get a large amount of room indeed. Really: these must be the biggest hotel rooms in Bucharest, and they cost about 1 per square metre. Close to the airport (on the other side of the road to McDonalds) this place is perfect if you have an early flight, though it is only fair to say that it is a good 30 minutes or so to the city centre. Still, with rooms and services to match anywhere, and at prices as low as these, we doubt anyone will be complaining. Q 21 rooms. Prices from 20-55. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTRLGW Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com bucharest.inyourpocket.com December 2013 - January 2014
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WHERE TO STAY
Short Term Rental
Apart Homes C-6, Str. George Valentin Bibescu 33, bl. X/2, sc. A, ap. 6, tel. (+4) 021 232 04 06, www. aparthomes.ro. A wide range of city-centre apartments, from studios to two-bedroomed places, as well as a villa in Baneasa. Whats more, they have someone on call 24 hours for any emergencies, maid service twice a week and offer a variety of other services. Q 20 rooms (5 singles/doubles 50, 5 triples 85, 5 suites 100, 5 apartments 150). Prices include breakfast and local taxes. VAT not included. PTR6GW Cert Accommodation B-5, Piata Walter Maracineanu 1-3, tel. (+4) 0720 77 27 72, www.cert-accommodation.ro. A very good selection of fully furnished, elegant, serviced studios, one, two and three bedroom apartments in and around the city centre. Cleaning is free, and they can also arrange car hire and airport transfers. Cheaper rates for longer stays. Q 21 rooms (6 studios 40, 15 apartments 55 - 100). Prices include local taxes and VAT. Breakfast not included. POTFLGKW Grand Accommodation B-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 29, tel. (+4) 0722 36 75 68/(+4) 021 314 49 50, www. for-rent.ro. Grand Accommodation has a variety of well furnished apartments and villas to suit all pockets in good locations available for both short and long term rentals. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Prices from 30-80/night. VAT included. Sarroglia Hotel C-5, Str. Vasile Lascar 59, tel. (+4) 031
average, in Bucharest - and the bathrooms are tremendous: all have bathtubs. There are also studios with kitchenettes for longer stays. The hotel boasts a good spa centre (with excellent Turkish bath), a big fitness room with loads of equipment and an outdoor terrace and swimming pool.Q 232 rooms. Prices from 59-99. Extra bed 10. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHR6UFLGKDCW 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Always full (reserve well in advance) you will see why when you arrive. The Rembrandt is what happens when people with taste renovate buildings in Old Town Bucharest (the gorgeous cafe next door belongs unsurprisingly to the same people). Luxurious without overdoing it, expect to find original 1920s wooden floors and period furnishings complimented by up-to-the-minute technology. Q 16 rooms. Prices from 75-118. Extra bed available. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTRUGKW 412 60 00, www.sarrogliahotel.com. Bright, contemporary and architecturally stunning hotel that looks expensive yet costs relatively little. The rooms are chic and pack a real punch in the comfort stakes, and each comes with an individual feel to it, often in the form of a full-wall mural. The location is close enough to the centre to be attractive while remaining residential: this is a quiet area of town. The hotels restaurant and lounge provide colour and panache. Q 32 rooms. Prices from 74-110. Prices include breakfast, VAT and local taxes. PHRUFLGKW and have excellent en suite bathrooms.Q 8 rooms. Prices from 30-40. Prices include local taxes and VAT. Breakfast not included. PHGW
WHERE TO STAY
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Hostels & Villas

(+4) 021 336 21 27/(+4) 0726 45 42 03, www.doorshostel.com. Clean, colourful and rather spacious hostel a short walk south from Piata Unirii. Located in a classic Bucharest house it benefits from a gorgeous garden/courtyard, an all you can eat breakfast and free Wifi, amongst much else. Note that they have only shared, mixed dorms: there are no private rooms. Q 5 rooms. Prices from 8.50-25. Breakfast, VAT and local taxes included. PTLGKW
Doors Hostel C-7, Str. Olimpului 13, MPiata Unirii, tel.
Rembrandt C-5, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
(+4) 021 319 27 58/(+4) 031 104 20 83, fax (+4) 021 319 27 56, rezervari@taniahotel.ro, www.taniahotel.ro. This is a cracking little place in the very heart of Old Town, just a shake or two away from the citys best nightlife. Rooms are good value, bright and airy, and are furnished in a modern, bright and airy style. The best is the split level sky room, with its sky light and raised sleeping area. Theres free internet for guests. Q 13 rooms. Prices from 49-99. Prices include local taxes and VAT. Breakfast included. PRGKW
Tania-Frankfurt C-6, Str. Selari 5, MPiata Unirii, tel.
Vila 11 A-4, Str. Institutul Medico Militar 11, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0722 49 59 00. Located in a lovely 1920s house close to Gara de Nord (one block east of Strada Vespatian and Dinicu Golescu) Vila 11 has a variety of private rooms, dorm facilities and family suites. Friendly and welcoming the owners do a great breakfast and are a wealth of inside info about Bucharest. Q 6 rooms. Prices from 20-54. Prices include breakfast, VAT and local taxes. T6GW X Hostel C-6, Str. Balcesti 9, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 312 76 13, www.xhostel.eu. A hostel with something of partycentral reputation. As such it is probably not the best place in town for a quiet night in, yet the young crowd that frequents the place hardly mind that. Good, clean dorms and bathrooms, and a number of singles for those who can splash the extra cash. Q 24 rooms. Prices from 5-45. Prices include local taxes and VAT. Breakfast not included. PT6GKDW
Symbol Key
P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet (Standard) F Fitness centre D Sauna W WiFi A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Disabled facilities L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms C Swimming pool
Trianon B-5, Str. Grigore Cobalcescu 9, tel. (+4) 021
311 49 27, www.hoteltrianon.ro. You cant do much better than this cracking place on Str. Cobalcescu, opposite Cismigiu Park. The building is a superb Secession renovation on a street that boasts some extraordinary buildings: it is a shame not all are up to this standard. Inside the rooms are simple, tastefully decorated and offer excellent value for money.Q 26 rooms. Prices from 85-133. Extra bed 18. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHR6UGKW tel. (+4) 0734 33 30 20, www.barrio.ro. Bang in the centre of the city this villa, once the residence of the legendary Cartagiu family, is a terrific choice for anyone looking to be close to the citys best night spots and restaurants. Rooms are not big but are comfortable, equipped with all mod-cons
Flowers B & B D-5, Str. Plantelor 2, tel./fax (+4) 021 311 98 48, www.flowersbb.ro. Very close to Piata Unirii this place is exactly what it claims to be: a proper, homely bed and breakfast. Few frills, little fuss, just first class hospitality from great staff who will make your stay as comfortable as possible. In warmer months you can have your breakfast outside in the lovely courtyard. Q 18 rooms. Prices from 35-55. Prices include taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTR6LGW Midland B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 22, ap. 3, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 314 53 23, www.themidlandhostel.com. Good hostel run by two young locals, with a very central locations in wonderful old apartment buildings. Handy for transport the place has immaculately clean dorms and a single for a little extra privacy. Breakfast included, as is Wifi and bedding. Q 3 rooms (12 bed mixed dorm 8, 10 bed mixed dorm 9, 6 bed mixed dorm 11). Prices include all taxes VAT and breakfast. PTHRGW bucharest.inyourpocket.com
M Nearest metro station K Restaurant
Villa Barrio B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 3, MPiata Romana,
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RESTAURANTS
American
Champions B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 17, www. championsrestaurant.ro. Still serving one of the very best burgers in Bucharest (you can choose one or design your own from an endless choice of toppings), a fact undisputed by anyone weve ever met. It is also one of the biggest. In fact, now we think of it, the portions of everything here are enormous: even the childrens servings are very healthy indeed. Besides the burgers you will find a great selection of American pub food, as well as Tex Mex treats and even some more refined, slow food options. Famously good cocktails, and more televisions showing sport than you could ever hope for. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. PTLSW Hard Rock Cafe A-2, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61, www.hardrock.com/bucharest. One of the largest Hard Rocks in Europe, you cant go wrong here, whatever time of day you visit. Come for lunch with the kids (who are always well looked after and have their own menu), dinner with the crowd from work or late drinks and live music with your mates. All things to all people the burgers and ribs are a cut above the usual, desserts are as outsized and sweet as they should be, and the service comes from smiley waitresses and expert bar staff. We love it. Lets rock. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. PLESW
RESTAURANTS
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Asian
021 269 21 88, www.restaurantmongol.ro. Finally, Bucharest gets a proper Mongolian restaurant, where you pick the ingredients you want and hand them over to the chef who cooks it all on a hot plate for you. Its big, bright and airy and service is terrific, and there are various set menus for the indecisive, including a quick lunch for busy office types. Its a taxi-ride from the city centre, but worth the trip. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. PTLSW
QuanQuan B-dul Ion Ionescu de la Brad 1A, tel. (+4)
0721 51 22 91. The Gang has moved to a new location closer to the centre of town than before - and is, dare we say it, better than ever. The food - a genuine fusion of flavours - is sensational in every way: invention, taste, presentation and quality of ingredients. The jumbo prawns with cauliflower for example: where else will you find such a combination in this town? The place itself is nicely done out: we loved the white wooden floors in particular. Top selection of wines too, courtesy of Ethic Wine. In a word, recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. PLESW
The Gang Restaurant C-4, Str. Alecu Russo 4, tel. (+4)
NEW
meal for little money while enjoying usually decent company. The menu has a few British dishes - we can recommend the Spinach and Stilton Pie - but best of all we like the ciorba de vacuta - one of the best in the city, and the ciolan cu varza - pork knuckle with cabbage and beans. Guinness on draught at a decent price. Accepts Amex: not everywhere in Bucharest does. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 01:00. PLVESW
Restaurant 5 Elemente C-5, Str. Icoanei 15, tel. (+4)
Chinese
Orasul Interzis D-5, Str. Silvestru 3, tel. (+4) 031 425
47 47, www.orasul-interzis.ro. Bucharests first upmarket Chinese restaurant combines all the cuisines of that great country and delivers them to your plate with real aplomb. The menu is adventurous and features all sorts of dishes, such as the first class gong bau duck, the seafood nest and the spicy crab. To get the best out of this place though round up three friends and go for one of the set menus. Tremendous value. QOpen 12:30 - 24:00. Last food order 23:00. PVSW
0766 33 15 11, www.cincielemente.ro. Suddenly Bucharest has a choice of great Chinese restaurants. This place is brought to you by the team behind the uber-successful Imperial, on the coast in Mamaia, which foodies have been raving about for years. Expect superior, mainly northern Chinese food made of the finest ingredients, many of which are specially imported. The crispy duck is perhaps the best in the country, and they even serve lobster. Get there now. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PSW MPiata Victoriei/Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 318 12 85, www.restaurantnanjing.ro. Dating back to the 1980s this little piece of Bucharest foodie history was the first Chinese restaurant in the land. It is still one of the best, as its longevity (no mean feat in a city where good eateries come and go fast) testifies. Prices are reasonable, the setting is good, with a nice covered terrace overlooking busy Bulevardul Lascar Cartagiu. You will find the Nan Jing on the ground floor of the Minerva hotel. On weekday afternoons from 14:0017:00 their Happy Lunch offers a 50 per cent discount. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. PLVBSW
Restaurant Nan Jing B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4,
Belgian
88/(+4) 0740 17 10 90, www.waterloo-taverne.com. This is a rough and ready type place, with long bench seats. Its fun. The menu is far more adventurous than you might imagine, featuring duck with white sauce, chicken with beer and even some fondue. Good prices and great value all round: well worth a look, especially if there is a group of you. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PBSW
Waterloo D-5, Str. Traian 188, tel. (+4) 021 320 35
Symbol key
P Air conditioning T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled V Home delivery M Nearby metro station W Wifi 6 Animal friendly N Credit cards not accepted L Guarded parking E Live music G Non-smoking S Take away
Fine Dining
Morgan La Dud C-5, Str. Sperantei 7, tel. (+4) 0752
70 03 00, www.morganladud.ro. Dud in Romanian means mulberry, so you will understand the reason behind the name of this place the minute you see an impeccably preserved Morgan and step inside the gorgeous courtyard complete with mulberry tree in the middle. The food is special, from the pasta (all made on the premises) to the exciting variations of Romanian classics (sarmale made with mutton and rolled in
British
The Trafalgar Pub C-4, Str. David Emmanuel 4A, tel.
(+4) 021 211 31 51, www.trafalgarpub.eu. Popular with all sorts of expats who have a regular rendezvous here, this place is a pub and bistro in one, where you can get a decent
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RESTAURANTS
market. We came here for lunch recently and were stunned by how many foreigners were eating here: it must be one of the most popular tourist and visitor spots in town. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. PLVSW
RESTAURANTS
43
French
C-5, Str. Academiei 28-30, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 44 33 00, www.boutiquedupain.com. Everything you want from a city-centre eatery and a lot more. This is in fact more bistro than anything, serving breakfast, lunch and evening meals in fresh, bright surroundings. The selection of morning pastries is the best in the city, with office workers going out of their way to stop here for fresh supplies. For lunch there is a range of sandwiches hard to beat anywhere else, and the small selection of hot meals of an evening - the menu changes daily - are perfect for a casual dinner. Serving great coffee and a magnificent hot chocolate, we (and our kids!) love this place. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 8:30 - 20:00. PSW D-4, Str. Toamnei 101, tel. (+4) 0746 79 50 29, www. escargot.ro. Bucharest foodies: this is the place for you. A little non-descript from the outside, it is a sensational French restaurant where the love and care the chef has for his food oozes onto your plate. Duck that takes 48 hours to prepare, an onion soup of the like weve never eaten in Bucharest, fresh snails, outstanding wines and all served in minimalist surroundings: the food is king here.QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. SW
Boutique du Pain
mulberry leaves, for example). The White Duchess gateaux makes for a smashing dessert. With a range of fine wines from one of Romanias best vineyards this place is top notch. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. PEBSW 5, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0733 73 59 32, www. verandacasafrumoasa.ro. Simply put, this is one of the top five restaurants in Bucharest. Combining a contemporary setting with fine food, this is a gourmets delight. The frequently changing menu is a mix of cuisines and flavours and always - no matter how often you come - features something new and exciting to try. The conservatory-esque setting is terrific, and there are outstanding wines and champagnes to complement the food. A top, top place. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PLSW
Veranda Casa Frumoasa B-4, Str. Clopotarii Vechi
B-2, Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4) 021 230 07 70, www. labelleepoque.ro. A big, bright and open plan Belgian beer cafe on Radu Beller in Dorobanti. There are plenty of Belgian beers on offer - with Stella, Leffe and Hoegaarden available on tap - as well as more than a few nice Belgian touches in and around the bar. While the food is more local than Belgian, it is very good, with lots of seasonal specials, and something of a legendary dessert menu. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. Last orders 23:00. PIBW
La Belle Epoque
Escargot Bistro
The Harbour B-4, P-ta Amzei 10-22, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 319 72 57, www.harbour.ro. A top location, in Piata Amzei, with food to match, as well as friendly and efficient staff. The atmosphere is relaxing, the food better than average, though the real joy of this place is its view to the
Food & Drink

18 Lounge A-1, P-ta Presei Libere 3-5, tel. (+4) 0733 50 14 01, www.18lounge.ro. Lunch or dinner with a view? This is the place to come people. On the 18th floor of one of the tallest office buildings in the city, this place doesnt need to serve decent food to attract clients: fortunately, it does. More than just a restaurant the lunch is a great deal, and late in the evening it becomes a smooth, relaxed pace to hang out. It is also a self-declared anti-fitze establishment (much like its sister locations in the centre of town) and the vibe is always a little trendy but never kitsch. We like it. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:30. PLW Embassy C-4, P-ta Lahovari 8, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 00, www.embassy-club.ro. Popular with a wealthy crowd, the central and original Embassy (there are a couple of spin-offs in town) has been around a few years now, and in this city longevity alone is a sign of how good it is. Serving a good gourmet burger - widely regarded as one of the citys best - and much else besides (including some great cocktails) it is the kind of place that grows on you as the evening wears on, and in all likeliness you will stay until very late. We usually do. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Mon 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. SW
French Bakery Le Restaurant C-5, Str. Nicolae Golescu 17, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 310 33 02, www.frenchbakery.ro. It had to happen. A French restaurant that actually delivers the goods time after time yet does so in an atmosphere that begs you to spend more time here. The menu features a number of simple, new-wave French dishes which - for this city - are very well-priced. Excellent wine list which, while featuring a great selection of French wines, for once acknowledges that the New World can make a decent grape too. In short, this place is a mini-revolution on the Bucharest dining scene and worthy of your time. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PESW Ici et La C-4, Str. Mendeleev 43, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0731 45 36 08, www.icietla.ro. As regular readers will know we are suckers for an open kitchen, and that is what we have here: sit and watch the chef and owner prepare your gorgeous homemade French meal. They are rather proud of their smoked salmon here (and rightly so) and the wine list features plenty of affordable grape. Top it all off with the magnificent creme brulee. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PVEBSW Iconic Food Wine & Design by Camelia Sucu B-3,
NEW
For restaurants in Bucharests Old Town see pages 72-87

Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Aleea Alexandru 7, tel. (+4) 0720 33 35 50, www.iconicfwd.ro. This place is the work of David Contant, a chef for whom no Bucharest foodie will need an introduction: he has been creating consistently brilliant food for years. This latest Contant creation is indeed an icon in the making, an eatery in the middle of a design showroom for which he has teamed up with local entrepreneur Camelia Sucu. Expect superb, beautifully presented and supremely healthy food, served in an environment which implores you stick around and indulge a little. Theres a wine bar on the premises too, whose stock is one of the citys best. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PLSW
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RESTAURANTS
La Cantine de Nicolai B-4, Str. Povernei 15-17,
MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0725 21 06 08, www.lacantinedenicolai.ro. Those who know their food know that this place is one of the top ten restaurants in the land. Beyond the Warhol prints on the walls this is French du terroir, where simple yet perfect flavours are allowed to breathe by a gifted chef who cooks for his customers as though he is cooking for his best mates. It is not cheap, but then dishes like scallops with mash potatoes and a truffle and veal sauce never can be. Special. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PSW
RESTAURANTS
45
Fusion
Plaza), MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 30, www. hojoplaza.ro/ro/avalon-restaurant. At Avalon, the jewel in the HoJos dining crown, knowing diners come to enjoy the flavours and smells of the superb fusion cuisine. Every time we visit (and we visit as often as we can) we find something new and interesting - and usually inventive - on the menu (which changes regularly) and a good new wine to go with our meal. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 180 lei/pers, children under seven free, children between seven and 12 years half price. PLSW
Avalon B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson Grand
German
0737 50 01 50, www.beraria-bragadiru.ro. This legendary beer hall looks better than ever. With German food as good as anywhere in the city (the potato and sausage soup is a winner, as is the ciolan) alongside a live Bavarian oompah band every night it is the perfect place for big groups looking for a raucous night out. Our only complaint would be that there seemed to be no German beer on draught. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PLESW
Beraria Bragadiru B-7, Calea Rahovei 157, tel. (+4)
Barrio by Embassy B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 30, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 0733 22 27 77, www.barrio.ro. Wonderful bar, cafe and restaurant (the place works as all three) where besides expertly mixed cocktails you can enjoy some sensational food, chosen from one of the most adventurous menus in the city. Roasted duck breast with rice and kumquat sauce and sea bass with ratatouille and celery sauce are just two of the standout dishes we entirely recommend. Not as dear as you might think either. Worth a visit. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. PKSW
Die Deutsche Kneipe C-3, Str. Stockholm 9, tel. (+4)
021 233 94 62, www.diedeutschekneipe.ro. Really, one of our favourite places in Bucharest, now as ever (and it has been around for more than 15 years). Serving giant portions of great German sausages (all made on the premises) as well as pork knuckles, kraut and the like, they keep the prices down and their punters very happy. You usually need a reservation at weekends. Good place for a simple pint of German beer too. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PNSW
Now, thankfully, he has opened up a new location close to the city centre. The food is as good as you would expect (we had a seriously hot lamb vindaloo) and there is home delivery if you live close enough. QOpen 12:00 00:00.
Indian
Haveli D-4, Str. Episcop Radu 3, tel. (+4) 021 211 03
90, www.haveli.ro. Possibly Bucharests best curry house. Convincingly authentic Indian cuisine served in a brightly decorated villa, where the sauces are by nature toned down for locals but where chef will - with pleasure - spice things up for the more experienced Indian diner. We like the long list of vegetarian dishes, of which the Bhangan Bharta (aubergine with tomato and onion) is a particular favourite. The onion bhajis are good too, while the lamb rogan josh never fails to hit the spot. Does home delivery too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 19:00 - 23:00. PLVSW
International
Balkan Bistro C-5, Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand Hotel Continental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. Very interesting indeed. A restaurant brave enough to admit that food in this part of the world is truly Balkan, and that the edges between Serbian, Turkish, Greek, Romanian and Bulgarian food can sometimes be very blurred indeed. You will find a rich range of dishes on offer: all presented on the menu in their original language. See you there. Q Open 12:30-15:30, 18:30-22:30. PLGW Barbizon Steak House A-1, P-ta Montreal 10 (Pullman
Bucharest World Trade Center), tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00/ (+4) 021 202 16 35, www.pullmanhotels.com. Found at the Pullman, this is probably the best eatery weve been to so far at this particular top-notch hotel. As you would expect, steaks top the bill, and what steaks! All the beef is shipped in fresh from South America, and though prices reflect the qual-
ity you will not argue at the end of the evening. Good wine list (we like the inclusion of Moldovan wines) and an open kitchen is always welcome. Great steak-based Saturday brunch: La Boucherie. Q Open 12:00 - 15:30, 18:00 - 23:30. Saturday Brunch 11:30-15:30, 190 lei/pers, 90 lei children. Kids under 10 free. PLW
252 51 57, www.karishma.ro. A good Indian-in-Bucharest option where the menu boasts no fewer than 10 lamb dishes: a rare treat in these parts where the raw material is so hard to find. There is much more besides of course, including an extensive range of vegetarian food, and the chefs will happily tone down (or up) all dishes according to your spice tolerance levels. The place itself is nice and the staff know their stuff. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. PVEBSW
Karishma D-5, Str. Iancu Capitanu 36, tel. (+4) 021
Barka Saffron A-2, Str. Av. Sntescu 1, tel. (+4) 021 224 10 04. We have been coming here since the last century, when there was precious little choice in Bucharest for people wanting something a little different; a little more spicy. Now there is plenty of choice but we still trot up to Barka whenever we can. On our last visit we went for the lamb with spinach in tomato sauce which was as good as we had hoped. The onion bhajis remain Bucharests best. First class cocktail list, and regular live music and arty events. Also of note is that the owner has his own buffalo farm in Transylvania, and sells fantastic buffalo telemea cheese here at the restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. ESW Becas Kitchen C-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 80, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 0722 30 89 60, www.becaskitchen. ro. Following much the same path as that trodden by Violetas Vintage Kitchen, this restaurant is a magnificent place serving wonderful, home-cooked food. The place itself is gorgeously simple in its decor, at once homely and welcoming. The food is fantastic, with the menu changing more or less every day: check the blackboard for todays specials. You can also buy homemade jams, pickles and the like. Terrific. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PGSW
Price Guide
(Based on a good meal with wine) Expensive (More than 30 per person) Middling (10-20 per person) Not cheap (20-30 per person) Cheap (Less than 10 per person)
021 350 31 14/(+4) 0769 06 01 60, www.agrapalace. ro. Kumar has been one of Bucharests top Indian chefs for more than a decade. Unfortunately his Agra Palace was until recently something of a culinary outpost, stuck up in Pipera.
Kumars Agra Palace D-6, Str. Mntuleasa 6, tel. (+4)
NEW
Be Nat A-4, B-dul Nicolae Titulescu 4-8, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 031 437 96 03, www.benat.ro. Light and spacious diner overlooking Piata Victoriei serving excellent value hot lunches, salads, tea, coffee and cakes. Look out December 2013 - January 2014
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RESTAURANTS
for the daily specials, while - if they have it - the gazpacho is as good as any in the city. Sit upstairs for the best views of the street below. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PVGSW
RESTAURANTS
Doncafe Brasserie B-3, Str. Ankara 7, tel. (+4) 0746
22 24 44, www.doncafe-brasserie.ro. Open early for breakfast (they do a decent English fry and delicious pain chocolat) its busy throughout the day, catering to lunching ladies and business types as well as a trendy crowd in the evenings. Great salads, a good range of homemade pasta (and we mean homemade: it is put together on the premises), a terrific osso bucco and a divine cheese cake are our fave dishes from the menu. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00. PLSW
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Chez Marie C-4, Str. Dionisie Lupu 48, MPiata Romana,
tel. (+4) 031 107 20 33, www.chezmarie.ro. Popular with the crowd from the UK embassy, including the ambassador himself, Chez Marie serves perhaps the widest variety of dishes you are likely to find in a Bucharest restaurant. Both the steak with gorgonzola and the beef stroganoff are top efforts, while we have long thought that the goulash is one of Bucharests very best. Good drinks list and the place itself is rather nice. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PLSW Hotel Continental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. Oh yes. The fine dining stakes in Bucharest got notched up even further with the appearance of the Grand Continentals showcase dining room, a match for any other in the city. This is the place to come for highly creative nouvelle cuisine, accompanied by a long list of the worlds finest wines (from Romania, France, Italy, Spain, South Africa, North and South America). The setting is to die for, and the staff are knowledgeable about both food and wine and will talk you through everything on the menu. QOpen 12.00 - 23.00. PLGW
Concerto Restaurant C-5, Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand
56 93, www.restaurantgargantua.ro. Bright and airy place that gloriously lets the light in through its huge windows. Fine food, including a luscious fried brie with onion marmelade, an outstanding chicken and artichoke salad, a couple of duck dishes and good steaks. Prices are more than fair given the location, setting and quality of food. Find it on the corner of Stradas Calderon and Verona. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PVBSW
Gargantua C-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 69, tel. (+4) 0726 55
Dacia Felix B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotelbucharest. The Radisson Blu opens its the cracking breakfast (possibly the best in the city) to all comers: simply turn up before 10:30, pay your money and fill up for the day. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. PLEGSW
La Brasserie A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.laveranda.ro. Redesigned and reinvented, La Brasserie is now less about fine dining (pop over to The Vineyard for that) and more about good quality, simple food for all the family. The menu is available buffet-style or a-la-carte, and makes a great choice for families or groups on the run. The wine list remains a work of art and the atmosphere is now cosier than ever. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:30, 177 lei/pers, children between six and 12 years half price, children under six free. PEGSW La Collonade (Casa Vernescu) B-4, Calea Victoriei 133,
tel. (+4) 0733 24 20 67, www.casavernescu.com. One of two new restaurants at the recently renovated and reopened
Casa Vernescu, one of Bucharests most historic buildings. Built in 1820 it carries the name of a politician, Gheorghe Vernescu, who bought it from the state in 1886, and had it extensively remodelled over a two-year period from 1887-9. It was at this time that the majority of the stunning interior frescoes were added. Fortunately, the food more than lives up to the surroundings. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PLEXSW Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 66, www.omnivores.ro. Brilliant! Tiny place serving the best cooked lunch in central Bucharest. There are just a few dishes to choose from each day: ask the staff whats good, hand over a pittance and try and bag a seat at one of the tables (there are only three or four). You can take away if there is no space.QOpen 10:00 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PVGSW
buildings, while in the evening it becomes the eatery of choice for Bucharests foodie set. Everything on the menu, from the duck with foie gras to the saffron risotto with tempura prawns is fantastic, and worth every penny. Theres a cheaper but no less tasty bistro menu too. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00 (Restaurant), 08:00 - 24:00 (Bistro Cafe). PLESW City Centre), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 308 85 30, www.novotel.com. T eatro is so-called because the Novotel stands on the former site of Bucharests National Theatre, the hotels main restaurant is open to all for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Good, inventive food (the menu changes regularly) served in bright, colourful surroundings, with a nice terrace when the weather allows. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:00, 190 lei/pers, free for children under 12. PTULGW
Omnivores Dilemma B-4, Calea Victoriei 214, MPiata
Teatro B-4, Calea Victoriei 37B (Novotel Bucharest
Paris Bucharest Brasserie A-1, P-ta Montreal 10 (Pull-
man Bucharest), tel. (+4) 021 202 16 34/(+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com. The Pullmans bright and airy brasserie is open for breakfast and lunch, and offers a huge buffet packed with more than you could possibly eat in one setting. Very good value. Q Open 06:00 - 10:00, Tue-Thu 06:00 - 10:00, 12-14:30, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 11:00. PLGW
Restaurant 1880 C-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.restaurant1880.ro. One of the best hotel-based restaurants in the city is this bright, smart place at the Capital Plaza. The interiors are amongst the most striking in Bucharest, and the food more than matches the surroundings. We adored the celery soup with scallops, while the seafood risotto was as good as any weve eaten in Romania. Well worth a trip. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PBSW Phill Str. Drumul Potcoavei 120, tel. (+4) 0743 17 20 03,
www.phill.ro. Something of a sensation this place. Its avant garde to the point of being futuristic, and yet unlike so many upmarket restaurants this one positively welcomes families with children. Indeed, so welcome are kids that they have play areas and people to look after them. As for the food, this is a culinary journey around the world. Not one great cuisine has been left out, and in our experience they get everything right. There is way too much to mention more than a couple of the great dishes we tried: the squid ink risotto, the seafood stew and simple pleasure of new Zealand lamb chops. Go there. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. PLVSW
Sofa Restaurant & Bistro Cafe C-2, B-dul Barbu

Vacarescu 241A, tel. (+4) 0756 10 05 00, www.gosofa. ro. Sensational contemporary restaurant which caters during the day to the movers and shakers in the nearby office
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RESTAURANTS
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Grano C-3, Str. Putul lui Zamfir 40, tel. (+4) 0731 14
81 87/(+4) 021 231 23 86, www.grano.ro. An Italian the likes of which many of the other so-called Italian restaurants in Bucharest can only dream of becoming. Serving simple yet delicious food - such as the saffron risotto - that will have you telling all your friends to come here, you can also buy many of the special ingredients they use in their little shop. Oh, and did we mention the chocolate cake? QOpen 09.30 - 22.00, Mon 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 10.00 - 22.00. PESW Continental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0730 64 48 06. Amazingly good restaurant. Boasting top chef Alfonso Salvaggio in the kitchen, there is a new menu and the Italian stakes continue to get ratcheted up another notch, all to the benefit of us diners. All the pasta here is made fresh, the seafood is imported daily and the meat is the finest Argentine and Scottish beef or New Zealand lamb. The wine list is a gem: a selection of the very best the world has to offer. Whats more the staff really know their stuff and Bogdan, the restaurant's smart manager, is always on hand with recommendations. A wonderful place to eat.QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PLBW www.nonnamia.ro. Looks the part, feels the part and - when the food arrives - you will know that it tastes the part too. Very good Italian food, from treats such as rabbit in a glorious wine sauce to fresh pasta made right here on the premises, as well as choice cuts of top imported salamis and cheese. Good range of wines at all prices, and the service is a cut above the Bucharest norm. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 52, tel. (+4) 021. 313 00 21, Open daily 08:00 - 22:00. PESW Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 311 37 50, www.osteriagioia.ro. One of very few genuinely brilliant Italian eateries in Bucharest. Everything is done properly, from pasta made on the premises to the correct oils for the different dishes. We ate the excellent troffiette with smoked pancetta, porcini mushrooms, truffles and pecorino, which was followed by slow-cooked veal shanks in wine and aromatic herbs. Even the place itself is wonderful: long, narrow, with a great bar it is a foodies heaven. Go there. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PSW
This first Il Calcio restaurant is in a lovely house on Strada Clucerului, quickly becoming something of a magnet for great places to eat. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. PLSW Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77. A fabulous place. Boasting an open kitchen, three distinct dining areas and a private dining room, Robertos also now has a new chef: Marco Magri. The food is classical, with the menu boasting the best dishes from a number of Italian regions. Its not cheap, but prices reflect the high quality, and note that the lunchtime set menu is in fact very competitively priced. In a nutshell, its worth every penny: this is one of the top five restaurants in the land. Robertos is also the home of the Hiltons now legendary and not-to-be-missed Lazy Sunday Afternoon. Q Open 06:30 - 10:00, 12:00 - 23:00. Lazy Sunday Afternoon from 12:00-17:00, 155 lei/pers. PTGSW
Robertos C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace
Modigliani Pasta/Carne C-5, Str. Batistei 9 (Inter-
The Vinyard A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, contact@laveranda.ro, www. crowneplaza.ro. The feather in the Crowne Plazas cap, this is now the hotels flagship restaurant, a work of great detail where everything is lovingly prepared by exec chef Ashlie Dias - who has been here for years - and his highly experienced team. Based around Mediterranean cuisine you can always expect to find something exotic and a bit different on the daring menu, and a number of the dishes require waiter or audience - thats you, diner - participation. An indulgent treat. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PEW Uptown Bar & Grill B-3, Str. Rabat 2, tel. (+4) 021 231 40 77, office@uptown.ro, www.uptown.ro. Uptown indeed. In the wealthiest part of the wealthiest part of the city, the citys wealthiest people come here to eat. The real draw is the enclosed terrace which means you can eat al fresco even when its raining outside. The food is good, a mix of Italian-esque and modern European dishes, which share a menu with an excellent wine list. Prices not cheap but value for money very high. Make sure you reserve well in advance or turn up with a local celebrity if you want a table on the terrace. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PLBSW
number of great wines, all available by the glass. Keep the kids happy with the freshly made ice cream. QOpen 11:00 23:30. PLGBW
Capricciosa B-dul Ion Ionescu de la Brad 2, tel. (+4)
021 233 06 35, www.restaurantcapricciosa.ro. A bustling Italian restaurant and pizzeria whose menu is a veritable dictionary of pizza. They even do truffles and, lets face it, you dont see those every day on a menu in Bucharest. Well worth making the journey uptown for both the food and the atmosphere, which demonstrates that top restaurants dont have to be fitze. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PLSW
Nonna Mia C-3, Str. Chile 10, tel. (+4) 0728 60 22 83,
Trattoria Don Vito Ristorante C-4, Str. Mendeleev 1, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0735 33 30 21, www.trattoriadonvito.ro. They get a lot right here, not least the bean soup that is a meal in itself. Excellent salads, and the seafood-packed signature Don Vito pasta was memorable. There is pizza too, the sweets are delicious and the place itself is decked out well without ever overdoing it. Well worth a look. Note that downstairs is a totally non-smoking section. Commendable. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. PSW Trattoria Il Calcio C-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 1-3, tel. (+4) 0732 52 81 40, www.trattoriailcalcio.ro. What we have here is the best use of perhaps the best terrace space in the city. As with the original Il Calcio, service can be a bit hit and miss but the good - if not outstanding - Italian food at fantastic prices makes this a good default choice for dinner. Stick to the pizzas, salads, have a little patience and you will love the place. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Also at (C-4) Str. Mendeleev 14, (+4) 0722 13 42 99; (I-4) Str. Delea Veche 36, tel. (+4) 0726 01 03 83; (C-3) Calea Floreasca 118-120, tel (+4) 0728 63 99 06, Soseaua Nordului 7-9, tel (+4) 0724 70 66 65. PLSW
tel. (+4) 021 210 81 57/(+4) 0722 32 37 34, www. trattoria-roma.ro. Brilliant, truly brilliant, and we rarely give praise that high. It might nominally be an Italian but what people come to this place for is the seafood. The huge plates of steaming mussels are top value, and theres fresh lobster (fresh as in they pick it live out of a fish tank). Add in decent house wine at giveaway prices, good pasta (a classic aglio, olio is recommended) and you have a winner.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
Casa di David B-1, Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 021 232 47 15, www.casadidavid.ro. You can say what you like about this legendary, high-class place (and most people in Bucharest have some kind of opinion), but to us it remains a very nice place to spend the evening, especially if the weather is good and you can sit outside away from the television screens. The food is ristorante Italian with a twist (the duck breast with citrus fruits is our pick of the current menu) and outstandingly good, with enough fish dishes to make it appealing to sea food lovers. Staff are good and the wine list a cracker. QOpen 12:30 - 23:30. PLESW
Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 02, cucina@marriott.com, www.cucinarestaurant.ro. Bright and breezy, Cucina at the JW Marriott is a wonderful Italian restaurant where you can find probably the best (and perhaps only) butterfish steak in the city. All of the other fine Italian dishes are equally memorable, and note that all of the pasta is homemade on the premises No fewer than 26 good Italian reds grace the wine menu. Q Open 12:30 - 16:00, 18:00 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. PLESW
Osteria Gioia A-3, B-dul Ion Mihalache 16, MPiata
Italian
Caffe Citta B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu),
tel. (+4) 021 601 34 36/(+4) 021 311 90 00, caffecitta. bucharest@radissonblu.com, www.caffe-citta.ro. Styled as a Northern Italian city centre cafe/bistro the emphasis here is on good, simple, urban food. Try the risotto with saffron, the saltim bocca and the tiramisu: all signature dishes and all done to perfection. The drinks menu is a bit special: go for the apple mojito (as delicious as it sounds) or try any
Cucina B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott
Trattoria Roma D-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 114-116,
Ristorante Il Calcio A-3, Str. Clucerului 7, tel. (+4) 0729 57 48 02, www.trattoriailcalcio.ro. As opposed to T rattoria Il Calcio? Yes. For this is a ristorante, a notch up from trattoria. Expect a more refined menu and surroundings, but the same warm, friendly service and great value (if pricier) food youve come to expect from the Il Calcio boys. bucharest.inyourpocket.com
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RESTAURANTS
Lebanese
(+4) 0740 00 78 78, www.cheztoni.ro. Terrific Lebanese food in the leafy, away-from-it-all setting of the Pescariu Tennis and Sports Club. All your Middle Eastern favourites are here, from Antaki, Adana and Beiti kebabs to sujuk (those tangy, spicy little sausages) and simple yet perfectly grilled sea bass (and a ton of other fresh fish). Everything is cooked by the resident Lebanese chef. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PLBSW 222 57 55, www.piccolomondo.ro. Lebanese food that is both filling (with plenty for vegetarians to choose from) and well made. Kebabs are one of the chefs strong points, and are very tasty indeed. After your meal you can enjoy a smoke on a hookah pipe. Always packed so reserve a table. QOpen 10:30 - 24:30. PLVBSW
RESTAURANTS
Chez Toni C-2, Str. Glodeni 3, tel. (+4) 021 242 02 04/
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Piccolo Mondo A-3, Str. Clucerului 9, tel. (+4) 021
Vinoteca Opera A-6, Dr. Lister 1, MEroilor, tel. (+4) 0749 99 66 22, www.vinotecaopera.ro. Facing Bucharests Opera House (albeit across a large, busy square) this is a very good seafood and Italian restaurant serving as wide a range of fishy treats as you will find in Bucharest. The mussels are good value at 32 lei for a half kilo portion, while the tuna steak was equally impressive (and at 49 lei not as expensive as other places in town). Good selection of non-seafood meals, and the wine list is first class, offering something for all pockets. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PLVSW
Medieval
Crama Templierilor B-5, B-dul Mihail Kogalniceanu 3,
tel. (+4) 021 311 63 60/(+4) 0725 73 93 98, www.cramatemplierilor.ro. A medieval extravanganza of a restaurant where you can sit at wooden tables - including a round one, just like King Arthur - and tuck into massive portions of all your medieval favourites, from pork knuckles to home-made sausages and juicy steaks. There is live music most nights from a top taraf band, and its very difficult not to have a good time here. Groups especially will love it, and your kids will too. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PVESW
Japanese
Benihana B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson Grand Plaza), MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 30, benihana@hojoplaza.ro, http://www.hojoplaza. ro/en/benihana. With cracking new menus specially put together for the season, this is a great time to come and try the vast array of terrific Japanese specialities on offer at Benihana. A staple on the Bucharest dining scene for some years now, it is a tremendous mix of the new, the daring and the traditional. Expert chefs and staff will explain Japanese cuisine to newcomers, and the chances are you will want to come more than once. Great value, and perfect for big groups. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 22:30. PTULSW Sushi Ko B-1, Sos. Nordului 1, tel. (+4) 0736 88 86 88, www.sushiko.ro. Three wonderful restaurants. The food is fantastic, and the extensive menu covers every area of Japanese cuisine, from sushi to sashimi. The vibe is casual, the set menus are great value, and staff are friendly and helpful, taking time out to explain the finer points of Japanese dining to beginners. All three locations are well worth a visit (one is in the Old Town) and if you cant get there in person, theres home delivery too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at (C-6) Str. Stavropoleos 8, tel. (+4) 0758 08 84 00, Open 12:00 - 24:00 and at Sos. Bucuresti-Ploiesti 42D (Baneasa Shopping City, ground floor), tel. (+4) 0758 03 80 05, Open 12:00 - 23:00, Home Delivery: Lipscani tel. (+4) 0747 87 44 56, Northern Bucharest tel. (+4) 0744 34 44 44 PLVSW
21, www.restaurantyoshi.ro. Sushi and teppanyaki - and more besides - at the best new Japanese restaurant to open in Bucharest for some time. Located in upmarket Dorobanti it is not cheap (good Japanese food rarely is) but it is very good and the set-menu at lunchtime is excellent value. The place itself is spacious and very contemporary, and the perfect setting for a meal of this quality. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. PVSW
Mediterranean
Cerisiers A-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu 33, tel. (+4) 0722
59 98 05/(+4) 0372 15 06 00, www.restaurantcerisiers. ro. We attended a Christening at this place recently, and were blown away by the quality of the food: really outstanding. The seafood and fish dishes are the best of whats on the menu, but there is more than that to enjoy: try the cracking salads or the beef carpaccio. As for the rooftop terrace, there is no more romantic place to eat in the city. In the right weather of course. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. PLBSW something of a Bucharest treasure. In brief, this is as good as modern, contemporary dining gets in this city and a visit here is worth every penny (speaking of which, the set two-course lunch is a bargain). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PLSW
Studio 80 Aleea Privighetorilor 80, tel. (+4) 0749 78 83
Oliviers A-3, Str. Clucerului 19, tel. (+4) 0733 10 91
Joseph by Joseph Hadad B-2, Str. Prof. Dr. Ioan Can-
tacuzino 8, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 0753 99 93 33, www. josephrestaurant.ro. Looking for gems such as a homemade ravioli with fillet of sea bass? Then get yourself here. This is an outstanding place in every way: not only is the food sensational - the menu is mainly Mediterranean but there is more than a hint of France too - but the villa in which it is served is also
37 / (+4) 0372 15 07 00, www.restaurantoliviers.ro. Can a hotel restaurant be this good? Yes. The ambitious owners of the Residence hotel are very keen to promote their excellent restaurant, and with good reason. A small but perfectly formed dining room is the setting for a tantalising menu of Oriental, Mediterranean and local dishes. The red tuna steak with capers is a treat. The gourmet menu (for two) is outstanding. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. PLW 0733 07 74 82, www.tortugarestaurant.ro. Mediterranean restaurant with a heavy accent on seafood, and lots more besides. Great, big salads, huge plates of mixed meze (perfect for big groups to share) and no fewer than four lamb dishes, including some of the best lamb chops weve eaten in Bucharest. Modern, contemporary yet understated design adds to the joy of dining here. We like it. QOpen 09:00 23:00. PLSW
46/(+4) 031 437 97 29, www.studio-80.ro. For something a bit different in a location well away from the bustle of the city centre it is worth trying the fare on offer here at Studio 80. A good range of food on offer, from good meats to fish and sea food, and all done with a genuine Mediterranean twist. Top wine list and prices are certainly reasonable. Worth the trip. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PLVESW
Mexican/Tex Mex
252 66 88, www.eltorito.ro. Expect the biggest and best burrittos in the city, topped with lashings of tangy cheese; sizzlingly hot fajitas, no fewer than eight types of taco and best of all - that splendid Mexican staple so often forgotten or passed over as being dull: cream of corn soup. The super nachos are worth trying too: filled with ground beef the portion is big enough to serve as a main course. In fact, beware: all the portions here are supersized.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PVESW
El Torito C-4, Str. Iancu Capitanu 30, tel. (+4) 021
Restaurant Tortuga D-5, Str. Traian 234, tel. (+4)
Modern European
Cafe Athenee C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace
Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest. com. We love it. This is Bucharests village pub, where the city comes to meet and have a terrific breakfast, lunch or early dinner. The new breakfast menu offers something for everyone, from a full English to nasi goreng, while the legendary Hilton burger remains one of the best in the city. There is also a bites menu of substantial finger food for executive snacking, and a bigger, wider range of beers, wines and cocktails then ever, which is why it is now as popular as an after-work venue as it is at lunchtime. Q Open 08:00-20:00. PESW
Yoshi Str. Banul Antonache 40-44, tel. (+4) 0749 97 95
(+4) 021 311 90 00. Sharkia blows in to the Radisson like the eponymous wind and brings with it some top class dining at the hotels latest restaurant. In place of Le Bistro what we have here is a dining room where the focus is on Eastern Mediterranean food, the freshest seasonal ingredients and supremely healthy eating. You can feast on a great range of dishes from across the region, there are some fine wines and its all done with that magical Radisson swish. We love it. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PLG
Sharkia B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel.
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RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
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(Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00/(+4) 021 601 34 02, www.prime-restaurant.ro. Boasting a menu put together by Executive Chef Bernd Kirsch, who has been in charge of the kitchen here since Prime opened more than four years ago, what is perhaps Bucharests best restaurant recently got better. Now serving the finest fillet steak in the world (the Irish Hereford Prime - which we can tell you, as we have eaten it, is amazing), we can also recommend the duet of foie gras with raspberry mousse and caremelized pineapple, the grilled scallops and the lobster bisque. (And just about everything else). Its genuinely amazing this place, and worth every last penny. Q Open 12:30-15.00, 18.00-23.00, Sat 18:00-23:00. Closed Sun. PLG (+4) 021 312 24 92, www.stadio.ro. A rather delightful contemporary Italian-inspired restaurant, whose interior design is amongst the most avant garde in the city. We loved the old kitchen appliances and Warhol-esque soup cans on the walls, and the various different dining areas, not least of which is the huge central atrium. The food is worthy the location and design: good and often quite inventive: the cream of pea soup with crispy bacon was a treat, and we were also rather delighted to discover beef in Yorkshire pudding on the menu.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PVNBSW
Prime Steaks & Seafood B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81
Charmingly decorated in a brilliant mix of traditional and hip you will love it the moment you walk in. The food is good, and as the name suggests (placinte means pies) there is a big range of pie on offer: potatoe pie, cheese pie, pumpkin pie and even apple pie. There is much else besides, including the entirely recommended pelmeni. QOpen 10.00 - 23.00. PSW
Romanian
650 50 00, www.bistrojaristea.ro. From the people who have long brought you some of the citys finest Romanian food comes this place, a contemporary eatery for friends. Duck breast with sweet cabbage, smoked fish and potato salad, baked carp with garlic and mamaliga are just a few of the great dishes you will find on the menu. Add in a bright, breezy setting, good service, visinata by the glass and you have a terrific new place to eat and spend most of the evening. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PVEBSW
Bistro Jaristea B-4, Str. Henri Coanda 5, tel. (+4) 021
Stadio C-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 11, MUniversitate, tel.
Moldovan
La Placinte B-4, B-dul Dacia 20, MPiata Romana,
tel. (+4) 031 410 80 21, www.laplacinte.ro. Popular Molodovan chain of eateries (there are more than 10 of these restaurants in Chisinau) comes to the centre of Bucharest.
NEW
Bistro La Taifas B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 16, tel. (+4) 021 212 77 88, www.bistrotaifas.ro. La T aifas means having a chat and thats exactly what you and your friends will feel like doing at this tres jolie venue. We remain convinced that the original venue behind the Hilton on Str. Episcopiei was better, but this latest location is more spacious, and hosts more regular musical soirees. The food is great, and booking is still essential, especially if you want to sit on the terrace in good weather. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PLVESW Burebista Vanatoresc C-5, Str. Batistei 14, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 211 89 29, www.restaurantvanatoresc.ro. The smell of the wooden fixtures and fittings could convince you that youre in the countryside, not metres
away from the city centre. Portions are good, the food tastes super (good smoked meats, such as the smoked sausage and white beans, and lovely fresh sarmale) and all have a personal touch to their taste. Prices are more than reasonable. The live, loud folk band add to the party atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PLESW 17, www.casadoina.ro. Alma mater of Romanian restaurants, an integral part of the citys rich tapestry. This classy place pulls in the cream of Bucharest society, served by charming, splendid waiters in smart dress. The food is superb, and in a city where standards rise only to fall so often, Casa Doina can be considered a paragon of consistency. Boasts a large, gorgeous leafy terrace in the right weather. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PLEBSW
Casa Doina B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 4, tel. (+4) 021 222 67
Bulevardul Magheru, if this place doesnt occupy the very best people-watching spot in the whole of the city, then we dont know where does. Open for breakfast, lunch (usually an excellent-value buffet) and dinner, it is seriously good. Oh, and then there is the Sunday Brunch: currently the best in the city. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 06:30 - 11:30, 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 11:00. 12:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 175 lei/pers, children under six free, children between six and 12 half price. PTLEBW dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16, www.restauranttimes.ro. A very good restaurant indeed. Featuring a very good range of Romanian and international dishes, the menu here changes regularly, usually in time with the seasons. The young chef is not afraid to try something new and different and note that if you fancy something which is not on the menu, dont be afraid to ask. Good local wine list. Note the last kitchen order is at 22:30. QOpen 12:00 23:00. PLGSW
Good Old Times (Golden Tulip Times Hotel) E-6, B-
versitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 64 29, www.casagorjana.ro. One of the stock Romanian restaurants that has been packing in visitors for years, there is little gimmick here (beyond the rather wooden entrance) except good food at great prices. Indeed, if there is almost one thing you can be sure with when it comes to standard Romanian restaurants, it is that you will never have to pay much money. Try the papanasi (donuts) with thick cream here: almost a meal in itself and perfect for fuelling up before exploring Old Town. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. PESW
Casa Gorjana B-5, Str. Domnita Anastasia 13, MUni-
Corso Brasserie & Terrace C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. We brought our mother-in-law here recently to try out the sarmale , and after careful consideration she admitted that they were even better than her own: now thats high praise indeed. In a top location on Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com bucharest.inyourpocket.com
La Ceaunu Crapat C-4, B-dul Dacia 19, tel. (+4) 0746 78 35 64, www.laceaunucrapat.ro. The place to come in Bucharest for big portions of superb Romanian food cooked with a bit more style than in the average Romanian restaurant. Sarmale la ceaun and zacusca de fasole were two of the dishes we ate and happily recommend. The desserts are not to be overlooked either, and there are good value lunch menus. Oh, and we should mention that it all gets served in superb ethnic pottery. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PLESW La Cocosatu Str. Neagoe Voda 52 A, tel. (+4) 021
232 87 96, www.lacocosatu.ro. We put out an appeal on our Facebook fan page for the best mici in the city. The response was immediate and overwhelming: Cocosatu uber
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RESTAURANTS
Seafood
Cherhanaua Ancora B-1, Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 0721 33 55 55, www.ancora-cherhana.ro. Cherhana in Romanian means fishery, so you will already know what to expect here: fine fish and seafood. The interior is rather special: bright and contemporary, with more than a hint of local flavour. In a city now boasting more than a few seriously good interiors, this is up with the best of them. The food is very good too, from simple yet brilliantly executed local fish dishes (hamsii, carp and pike) to more exotic fish shipped in direct from the Mediterranean and beyond: sea bass, prawns, fresh tuna and much more. We should add that there are some fine meat choices for those who are not fish fans. Desserts as good as everything else. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. PLSW Fishbone Lunch & Pub C-4, Str. Gen. Ernest Brosteanu
2, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0721 98 28 48, www. fishbonegrill.ro. Another fish restaurant more than worth the name adds itself to the growing list of such establishments in Bucharest. Well prepared, fresh fish in bright, modern surroundings with a great selection of side dishes and plenty of cracking wine to wash it all down with. Good lunchtime deals and friendly, happy staff ready to make your time here memorable. Certainly one of our fave places to open this year. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PESW
RESTAURANTS
55
alles. A bit of a trek from the city centre (it is just around the corner from the now closed Baneasa Airport) the mici here are indeed the best we have tasted: big, tangy, made with loads of mutton and a few spices for extra kick. The ultimate Bucharest mici experience, and all at peanuts prices. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PLSW tel. (+4) 021 335 33 38, www.jaristea.ro. This is that rarity in Bucharest (and indeed Romania): an upmarket Romanian restaurant. The surroundings, location, exquisitely decorated dining rooms, service and choice of high quality food will convince you of that. This is one of very few places in Romania where you can enjoy an entire suckling pig (though note that you will need to phone ahead and ask them to start preparing it a day in advance) and sample some of the best vintage wines Romania has ever produced. QOpen 11:00 02:00. PLESW 24 80, www.restaurantnicoresti.ro. Maybe we have been harsh in the past with our reviews of Nicoresti. It is, after all, one of the most celebrated Romanian restaurants in the city, and given that the service - always our biggest problem with the place - has improved no end of late, we think it is about time we give it another chance. We suggest you do the same, for the food has always been very good.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. PSW
beef sauteed in cognac with mushrooms and tomatoes. Also worth trying is the iahnie de fasole: a Romanian bean stew that packs something of a kick and proof that Romanian does do vegetarian food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. PSW
La Veranda A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.laveranda.ro. One of three superb restaurants at the Crowne Plaza. This one is housed inside a glass terrace offering wonderful views of the garden outside: a joy in any weather. It serves deceptively simple yet exquisite fish and sea food as fresh as the day it was caught, and the chef will happily cook to order. Q Open 06:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 11:30, 12:30 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. PLEW Osho Fish B-2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, tel. (+4) 021 311 88 26, www.osho-restaurant.ro. Doing for Bucharests fish supper scene what Osho did for meat. Expect fine pieces of fresh fish and prime, fresh seafood cooked and prepared simply, with real class and with great care for the natural flavour of the fish. Prices reflect the high quality of the raw material, so charge it to expenses if you can, for this is a faultless establishment we have grown rather fond of. Get in there. QOpen 10:30 - 23:30, Sun 10:30 - 22:00. PVSW
16, tel. (+4) 021 252 29 56, www.taverna-lazavat.ro. Top little place with more atmosphere in its small toe than most other restaurants have in their entire bodies. Cracking menu of primarily fish and seafood, though there are local Romanian and international favourites too. An exemplary wine list (for all budgets) makes it a super place for vineyard fans: all of Romanias top wineries are represented. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PSW
Locanta Jaristea B-6, Str. George Georgescu 50-52,
Salonul Romanesc (Casa Vernescu) B-4, Calea Victoriei 133, tel. (+4) 733 24 20 67, www.casavernescu. com. Superior Romanian food at a superior Romanian venue: the magnificent Casa Lens-Vernescu, built in 1820 and considered one of the finest houses ever built in Bucharest. Like the location the food is excellent and perhaps not quite as expensive as you might think given that you are eating in a historical monument. Superb service and an outstanding wine list too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PLEXSW
313 77 16, www.urbanesc.ro. As fashionable as you like and already attracting a crowd of urban trendsetters, this restaurant/cafe/kind-of-shop is a nice mix of the old and the new. The old is the house the place is set in, the new is the rather funky design of the interior. The set-lunch deal is great value at 25 lei (it changes every day and often features some rather sophisticated dishes, and always includes an out-of-theordinary soup, like potato and leek) while the a la carte menu is a more extravagant affair. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. VSW
Taverna Pescareasca La Zavat E-5, Str. Popa Nan
Urbanesc D-5, Str. Stefan Luchian 17, tel. (+4) 021
Nicoresti C-5, Str. Maria Rosetti 40, tel. (+4) 021 211
Spanish
Restaurant Nada Mas C-5, Str. Nicolae Golescu 16,
MPiata Romana/Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 20 91, www.nadamas.ro. A bright, spacious and thoroughly modern eatery behind the Ateneu. For starters, take either the gazpacho (as good as it should be) or the mix of Spanish hams and sausages before moving on to the decent choice of seafood or meat main courses. We ate the very good oxtail - which we have not seen on a menu for years - as well as a portion of paella, which was richly packed with seafood.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PLESW
Vatra Restaurant B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 19, MUni-
Rossetya C-5, Str. Dimitrie Bolintineanu 9, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 805 91 99, www.rossetya.ro. Rossetya is a restaurant which tries harder than most to take Romanian cuisine to new levels. As such, this is as upmarket as Romanian food can get, and the beef dishes here are especially good. Try the sote de vacuta aromat cu cognac: tender Bucharest In Your Pocket
versitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 83 75, www.vatra.ro. We have been eating here for years and we cant recommend the place highly enough. You really will have go a long way to find better value Romanian food than this. A brilliant, well-priced restaurant close to Old Town and very close to Cismigiu Park, expect big portions of tasty local dishes. Great ciorbas, terrific mici and a decent pint of beer to wash it all down with. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PLSW
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RESTAURANTS
Slow Food
Beautyfood C-5, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 34, tel. (+4) 0759 03 06 09, www.beauty-food.ro. Love it. Another brilliant little Slow Food venue pops up in Bucharest, this time on the site of the old Violetas. Check the blackboard for whats on the menu - if they have it we can recommend the burger with the home fries. Always has a good lunchtime deal on: two delicious courses usually priced around 20 lei. QOpen 9:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Metuka B-4, B-dul Lascar Catargiu 7, MPiata Romana,
tel. (+4) 0734 16 57 46. Slow Food in every sense of the phrase: the food is seasonal, all prepared fresh, and made from locally-sourced ingredients. It also comes at a fair price: both to you and to the suppliers. The menu changes every day, but there is always a good choice for either lunch or dinner (soups, finger food and more substantial dishes), as well as some terrific desserts. Well worth a visit. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PVSW
RESTAURANTS
Vegetarian
Casa Satya A-3, B-dul Banu Manta 25, tel. (+4) 0736 39 25 87, office@satya.ro, www.satya.ro. Where do you start when reviewing a place as revolutionary as this? The concept is Ayurveda, as in the mix life and science. Ayuvedic principles have long been applied to alternative medicine, now it is developing into cuisine, and that is what we have here. Everything on the menu is toxin free, so no meat, but there is plenty of seafood, and everything is made with only fresh, organic ingredients. Amazingly, that does not mean forgoing taste: the delicious chutneys served with the poppadoms will convince you of that right from the off. The toilets by the way are amazing. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PVGBSW
be drooling, you can also feast on lamb, veal and pork chops, while the burgers are a match for anywhere else. There is a kids menu, and the weekend all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet is top value. Most of the meat can be bought to take home and cook yourself should you wish, and then theres the wine list: a surprise we will let you discover yourself when you come here. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PiTSW
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The London Street Bistro C-3, Str. Putul Lui
Steak Houses
90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), MIzvor/Eroilor, tel. (+4) 021 403 19 03, www.jwsteakhouse.ro. The JW Marriott hosts one of Bucharests best chophouses: the JW Steakhouse, only the second such signature venue to open in Europe. You can expect a very American steakhouse experience, right down to the Black Angus beef imported from the US. The Tomahawk steak - weighing in at nearly a kilo - is the pick of the steaks, but there is much more besides, including broiled lobster and Australian lamb chops. There is a great selection of new world wines, and they open early for breakfast: the American pancakes and eggs Benedict are a great option to start the day with. Q Open 06:30 - 11:00, 12:30 - 16:00, 18:30 - 23:30, Sat 06:30 - 11:00, 18:30 - 23:30. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 195 lei/pers, children between six and twelve half price, children under six free. PLESW
JW Steakhouse Bucharest B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie
Zamfir 15, tel. (+4) 0736 93 35 31, www.thelondonstreetatelier.com. The London Street Atelier has been making delicious home-made food for those in the know for a while, and now there is this rather super little bistro to go with it. Expect a menu that changes weekly, fresh, seasonal ingredients and a whole host of inventive treats you will not find elsewhere (we were lucky enough to hit upon some Feteasca Neagra sausages). Not as expensive as it probably should be, theres a great set lunch deal each day which includes - unlike many others in this town - a glass of wine. QOpen 09:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. VBW (+4) 0722 52 56 43, www.violetas.ro. The concept is great: very good traditional and modern Romanian food (the cook is not afraid to experiment) with more than a nod towards the vegetarian served off a menu that changes regularly. You can check the latest menu online (it is always up to date) and then decide if you fancy anything before setting off. Chances are you will spot plenty you like. The brunch from 11:00-16:00 on Saturdays is excellent value at 80 lei per person: kids under seven are free. The place itself (now in a new location) is lovely, the staff wonderful and as a whole it is just so un-Bucharest that you will want to squeeze it and hug it. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. PGBSW
Thai
0722 68 74 54, www.kunnai.ro. At last, place for those of us who have been craving something Thai since Moods closed a while ago now. This place is terrific, found on the ground floor of a new apartment block in a leafy northern part of Bucharest. The food is the real deal, of which the food will convince you immediately. We had the Pla Praew Waanfish stir-fry followed by the prawn Phad Thai: both were sensational and well worth the money (its good value if not exactly cheap). Get there now. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Last kitchen order 23:00. PTLSW
Kunnai Str. Copilului 6, tel. (+4) 0722 68 73 43/(+4)
Violetas Bistro D-6, Str. George Ionescu-Gion 9, tel.
Turkish
Golden Falcon C-5, Str. Hristo Botev 18-20, tel. (+4)
021 314 28 25, www.goldenfalcon.ro. Still the greatest kebab house in the land, and still packing in the punters who come back time and again. There are no menus here: instead the waitresses will parade a trolley-full of meze before you to pick from, before coming round with the kebabs: pick which one you want then send it to be cooked in the open kitchen. We usually always go for the lamb kebabs, but in our experience all of them are well worth trying. Great desserts too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PLSW
Osho B-2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 021 568 30 31, www.osho-restaurant.ro. Sometimes when writing a review, all you really want to write is this place is brilliant. This is a butchers shop and restaurant serving T-bone steaks you would scream for in the dark. There is more than steak on the menu though, such as a top burger (which comes in three sizes) and tangy lamb chops, and take note that all the meat is Romanian. Plus, theres a kids menu. We also have to admit to being pleasantly surprised about the prices: given the location (this is Beverly Hills, Bucharest) they are more than reasonable. QOpen 10:30 - 23:30, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PVBSW Vacamuuu C-3, Calea Floreasca 111, tel. (+4) 0731 35 11 35, www.vacamuuu.com. Currently the most talkedabout chophouse in the city. Serving a range of steaks so wide and so good that even the most jaded of beefeaters will Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Urban Contemporary
Restaurant Madame Pogany C-3, Str. Banu Antonache 40-44, tel. (+4) 0744 10 56 13, www.madamepogany.ro. Fine, upmarket yet casual restaurant of the new school in Floreasca/Dorobanti. The spacious, modern, well-lit dining room gives you a real sense of grandeur without ever becoming kitsch: a trick few have managed to pull off in Bucharest. There is little point telling you about the food as the menu changes almost daily: what we can say is that whatever you order you are likely to be happy with it. This is a great restaurant. QOpen 09:00 - 00:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 02:00. PLSW bucharest.inyourpocket.com December 2013 - January 2014
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cAfS
Bucharest has one of the most vibrant cafe scenes in this part of Europe. Most double up as cocktail bars at night, and many offer good bistro food alongside your coffee. There are also now plenty of tea shops and tea houses making that search for the perfect Bucharest cuppa a little less difficult than it used to be. 0758 90 05 82. Charming, in a word. Set in a gorgeous old Bucharest house its like a coffee shop and tea house and bistro and much more besides. Huge big omelettes for breakfast, soups at lunchtime, freshly made pasta for dinner: the menu changes all the time so just ask whats good the day you go. Oh, and they have muffins, wonderful muffins. Its also licensed so you can have a beer or cocktail, and given that its open from 08:00, we could easily see ourselves spending the whole day here. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PLSW
CAFS
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Aristocats Bistro C-5, Str. Teodor Stefanescu 1, tel. (+4)
Cafe Times E-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 031 224 80 16, www.cafetimes.ro. Free Wifi with your (excellent) coffee and a can-do attitude from the staff who appear to realise that sometimes people are busy, and need their coffee double quick. Not every cafe in Bucharest does realise that... Having said that, this is the kind of laid-back place that you end up spending the whole afternoon in, no matter how busy you are. Q Open 07:30 - 24:00. PLESW Cafe Verona C-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15,
MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 00 30 60, info@cafeverona.ro. Sublime. The brilliant Carturesti bookshop has long served coffee with its books, and now there is wine; and cocktails too. And if there is a better place to drink coffee this close to the centre of Bucharest than this place then we know not of it. For long lazy afternoons or laid-back evenings with friends it is great, while for brunch it makes a brilliant (and bargain) alternative to the big, expensive hotels. Always packed, a reservation is a good idea. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PSW
here, that they should probably be paying rent. It is that kind of place: a friendly, local cafe serving top coffee, cocktails, light meals, salads and desserts to die for (the waffles are probably the best in Bucharest). Its packed with comfy sofas and armchairs, and we can guarantee that one visit will not be enough. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. PESW Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00/(+4) 021 202 16 33, www.pullmanhotels.com. Classy cafe and patisserie at the Pullman, a popular choice with guests and office workers from the World T rade Center. The range of pastries is just about second to none in Bucharest, while the coffees are great value for what is after all a five-star hotel. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. PBSW
La Galette A-1, P-ta Montreal 10 (Pullman Bucharest
shell of an old house destroyed during the 1989 revolution a new building has risen, home - fittingly - to Romanias architectural association. The cafe and bar which occupies part of the building is more than worthy of its location, a contemporary space with walls decorated with scenes from the revolution, where you can enjoy coffee and cocktails in the company of a good young crowd. There are tasty sandwiches too, which can be taken away if you are in a hurry. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PSW
Caffe & Latte B-5, Str. Schitu Magureanu 35, tel. (+4)
031 415 85 51, www.caffe-latte.ro. We have been coming here for years and still love it. A cafe, bar and bistro serving superb coffee, tea, cocktails, cakes and panini, as well as some very good light meals: the salads are legendary. Opens early for breakfast (we recommend the omelettes) and the setting opposite Cismigiu is special. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30, Sat 08:30 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:30. PTW
Lente & Cafea D-5, Str. Arcului 2, tel. (+4) 021 210 96 96, www.lente.ro. While best-loved as a summer venue (the large garden/courtyard is delightful) this charming place should not be overlooked during the colder months either. The food is excellent, a cut above the Bucharest average. The salads are big and tasty and there is a surprisingly good range of beef dishes, although best of all we liked the gulas soup. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. V Origo C-6, Str. Lipscani 9, tel. (+4) 0757 08 66 88. A contender for the title of best coffee shop in Bucharest. This place is all about great coffee from all over the world, as well as a fairly decent selection of tea too. Many of the more exotic coffees can be bought by the packet to make at home, and the design of the place is not too shabby either: the coffee cups hanging down over the bar are a nice touch. Theres relaxing music, cocktails and - here comes the big news - inside it is totally non-smoking. QOpen 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PSW Readers Cafe B-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 89-97, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0737 32 33 77, www. readerscafe.ro. This place is one of the great things about the Metropolis Centre, of which the Starlight Suites and Loft restaurant also form part. You will find Readers on the ground floor, a modern, bright and well-lit space where you can read, drink great coffee or eat - far better than you would expect. The breakfast is terrific, the sandwiches tasty and well-filled, the salads big and the pasta light. Live music most evenings (early evening) and well separated smoking and non-smoking sections. Nice. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PLESW Subsol Bar C-5, Str. Demetru Ion Dobrescu 5, MUniversitate, tel. +(4) 021 315 60 98, www.subsolbar.ro. Perhaps the most iconic building in Bucharest. Inside the
Tekaffe B-4, Calea Grivitei 143 (Hello Hotels), MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0372 12 18 00. The in-house cafe at the Hello Hotel is as smart, cheap and good value as the hotel itself. Serves good coffee, pastries and the like, and all with added Wifi. A more than decent meeting place. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 22:00. PLSW Tonka Soul Cafe B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 19, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0723 44 80 80, www.tonka.ro. This place has indeed got soul, and plenty else besides. Warm and quiet coffee house by day, it becomes the perfect aperitivo spot when the sun goes down, then gets really wild as the music gets louder and the hours get shorter. Theres a good internet cafe in the basement. Q Open 24hrs. PRESW Vienna Lounge B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 01. The Marriotts posh flagship caf, which is exactly as youd expect: classy, enjoyable and expensive. Sit and try to read those unmanageable newspapers on a stick, while enjoying the occasional live piano music, plus the sight of business types buzzing about to conferences. Whats more fun than leisurely watching others work when you dont have to? QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PLESW
Camera din Fata C-4, Str. Mendeleev 22, tel. (+4) 021
311 15 12, www.cameradinfata.ro. One of the best cafes to open in Bucharest for years. The name means Front room, and being here is in many ways just like being somebodys front room. Great coffee and tea served in great mugs from gorgeous tea pots at tables which fill up early as the world pops in for espresso on its way to work. Lovely. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PSW
NEW
Coftale D-5, Str. Stefan Mihaileanu 42, tel. (+4) 0748 84 86 78, www.coftale.ro. Much more than being merely a very good cafe, this gorgeous place serves some of the best light meals and finger food you will eat in Bucharest. The vegetable spring rolls for example: amazing. The coffee is reassuringly wonderful, the hot chocolate with marshmallows a legend in the making, and the desserts and cakes more than tempting. Its well worth looking out for this place. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PAESW Kafeterya Cafe B-5, Str. Schitu Magureanu 8, MIzvor, tel. (+4) 0726 22 25 67, www.kafeterya.ro. We know people who come here so often, and spend so much time Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com
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NIGHTlIfE
Bars
By Bars we refer to places where you are likely to do little else other than drink and be merry (though bar snacks may be available). By Pubs we mean venues where you can drink and get half-decent food. 04, www.jwmarriottbucharest.com. The JW Marriotts newest addition is a suitably stylish and contemporary venue boasting one of the most elegant bars in the city. There are various seating areas, from the stools at the bar to comfy sofas and armchairs. Throw in a top cocktail list and great staff and it all means that the citys other business bars have some real competition at last. Top stuff. QOpen 08:00 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. PLEW like the raised interior balcony. Top cocktail-sipping territory. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PLBSW Happy Pub B-4, Str. Caderea Bastiliei 36, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0729 89 27 68, www.happypub. ro. What could be termed as a good, solid, no frills pub that eschews clutter and trendy crap and concentrates on the beer, the cocktails and treating its customers well. Theres a regular crowd of locals and foreigners, and its the kind of place where you never feel too young or too old. Top selection of brews (including several imported British beers and stouts), decent music and bar food. We like it. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. PSW
NIGHTlIfE
Romanian Food
Romanian food, rich in Turkish, Hungarian and German influences, is rather good. An example of top Romanian fare is the classic sour soup, ciorba. Made of bor (a sour, honeycoloured liquid made of wheat and cornflour), the tradition of making sour soups is Ukrainian, but was perfected in Moldavia and later Muntenia. In theory anything can go into a ciorba, though the most popular are ciorba de legume (made with vegetables), ciorba de vacuta (made with beef), ciorba de burta (made with tripe), ciorba de perioare (made with pork meatballs), or bor de miel (made with lamb, and popular at Easter). While you will often see ciorba de pui (ciorba made with chicken), chicken is more popular in clear soups, served with dumplings (galute), carrots and parsnips. At more formal meals a number of cold appetizers known as gustare reci will usually be served before the ciorba. These include cheese, olives, spring onions, salami, tomatoes and boiled eggs. Sometimes there may also be a platter of warm appetizers (gustare calde), such as carnai de plecoi (mutton sausages), ficaei de pui (chicken livers), ciuperci umplute (stuffed mushrooms), or mici. These are spicy little sausage-shaped meatballs made of mutton, beef and pork. They are delicious. While main courses can often be a disappointment, there are always some superb options in good restaurants, such as the celebrated sarmale (cabbage or vine leaves stuffed with mince and rice), or tocania (thick stew, usually pork). If you see ciolan afumat on a menu, it is worth trying: smoked pork knuckle served with beans. Romanian pork in general is superb. Mamaliga is a Romanian version of polenta made of cornmeal, whose stodginess has long been compared to the Romanian temperament. Though Romania boasts a not insignificant coastline along the Black Sea, the standard of its fish and seafood specialist restaurants excepted - can sometimes be poor. Often only carp (called crap in Romanian) and trout (pstrav; almost always served grilled) are available on restaurant menus. There is an increasingly large number of seafood restaurants in Bucharest, however, although much of the fish they serve will be imported, and priced accordingly. Look out too for good fresh mussels (midii) and hamsii: tasty, deep fried anchovies. Romanians also have a wonderful tradition of producing and eating fish roe, known as icre, usually mixed with garlic, onion and served as a delicious salad. Romania also produces decent caviar, although there is currently a moratorium in place on farming sturgeon. Sweets in Romania are sweet indeed. Pancakes (clatite) served with chocolate or jam and covered in sugar are a popular dessert, as are papanai: deep fried doughnuts filled with jam, or sometimes cottage cheese. Local ice cream (ngheata) is good and ubiquitous. Look out too for Romanian cakes (prjituri), usually made with lashings of fresh cream. As a final word on Romanian food, a note about some strange culinary habits which you may come across in the countrys restaurants. For some unexplained reason Romanians usually serve their fries covered with grated cheese. When ordering you can avoid this by stating fara branza pe cartofi prajii, v rog. There is also a local habit of throwing sour cream (smntana) on everything, especially in ciorbe and soups. Again, a simple fara smntana, v rog will suffice. Most bizarre of all however is the Romanian tendency to cover perfectly good pizza with ketchup.
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Bar A1 B-4, Str. Piata Amzei 1, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4)
0723 12 48 47. A little bit of everything in a very nice package. Food (including breakfast), drink (the milkshakes are fab, there is a range of rather unusual beers, while the wine selection is better than your average wine bar) and cakes that would shame most bakeries. The place itself is delightfully chic in that slightly shabby way, and the crowd that meets here is equally relaxed. You will love the place. QOpen 8:00 - 00:30. NS
English Bar C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77 ext. 6759. This little corner of the Hilton that will forever be associated with intrigue and spies (it has been around for nearly a century, as long as the hotel) remains today a classy bar serving champagne by the glass and much else besides (including a tremendous pint of Guinness). Packed most days with business leaders it also regularly hosts sophisticated, carefully-chosen theme parties, and on some Thursday nights - when it hosts great theme parties - this little bar becomes the most happening venue in town, a favourite of Bucharests fashionistas. Essential, get here now. Q Open 11:00 - 02:00. PLW Intermezzo Piano Bar C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. Legendary and rather historic hotel bar in the lobby of the Inter, which was a den of iniquity and intrigue during the communist period, all spies and journalists, plots and honey traps. Now its merely a very cool place to meet and have a drink in superb surroundings. Another one of the many reasons why the InterContinental is once again one of the top places in Bucharest to spend time. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PLEW Ludic C-5, Str. Coltei 50, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 438 01 79. Quirky little bar close to the Old Town which while not being on the beaten track is a highly popular venue indeed. Serving beer, cocktails and coffee there is a nice sunny terrace out back, but the big draw here are the board games: tens of them, everything from Scrabble to Cluedo. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 13:00 - 04:00, Sat 15:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PNBW Pavilion Lounge B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW
NEW
Pillow Bar & Lounge C-4, Str. Comanita 5, tel. (+4) 0730 88 33 77. The odd Ikea coffee table aside (and lets face it, who hasnt got at least half a dozen Ikea coffee tables these days?), Pillow is the kind of place we like to see opening up. It is cool without being pretentious, serves Illy coffee and has a couple of tables that double as beds, hence the name. It is in fact the kind of place where you could happily enjoy an exotic smoke, though as this is Bucharest, not Amsterdam, the smoke will be limited to tangy Middle Eastern tobaccos taken through a narghilea. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. PLW Ramayana Cafe A-5, Str. Baldovin Parcalabul 11, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 317 16 81, www.ramayana. ro. Looking like a cross between a Maharajas bedroom and the most luxurious hotel in Delhi, this cafe and cocktail bar is quite frankly unique. You will not find anywhere in Bucharest quite so startling in design, nor will you find a better place to bring a secret date for a little tete-a-tete. With more nooks and crannies than your grandmothers country house, pull up a cushion, sup on a hookah pipe and drink a green tea. Exceptional. Q Open 24 hrs. PESW
La Calderon 80 C-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 80, tel. (+4) 021 212 48 86/(+4) 0728 92 06 20, www.lacalderon80. ro. With its wooden interior, inoffensive music and gangs of young people clustered around big tables, La 80 does much to distinguish itself from a swathe of similar establishments. Reasonable food and prices, and this little place opposite Gradina Icoanei is a nice retreat from more frantic venues elsewhere. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PBSW Old Nick Pub C-4, Str. Dionisie Lupu 88 (Piata Lahovari), MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0733 52 51 50, www.oldnickpub.ro. Three-level venue in Piata Lahovari, featuring a club downstairs (open until 4am), with a pub on the ground floor and a cafe on the first. The pub is great, unsurprising when you find out that it is run by the same people who have for ten years operated the legendary Old Nick Pub in Sinaia. Besides decent drinks at decent prices there is a good bar food menu, and the cafe upstairs comes complete with art on the walls (for sale, we believe) is well worth a visit. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PSW Primus B-5, Str. George Enescu 3, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 22 26 66, www.primuspub.ro. Big pub that goes a long way towards convincing us that we do not need to go to Old Town to find a decent drinker in Bucharest. From the
92 27, www.skybar.ro. Leaving aside the disappointment that Sky Bar - despite being on the roof - is actually only on the fifth floor, its a classy little place for the monied set which comes here to drink cocktails and dine on very good food. The salads are outstanding, as are the steaks and there is plenty of buffet-style finger food if you just want nibbles with your drinks. Its corporate and business-like but makes a change from drinking in yet another cellar in Old Town. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PVBSW
Sky Bar B-3, Calea Dorobanti 155, tel. (+4) 0724 75
Casinos
Casino Bucharest C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4
(InterContinental Hotel), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 83 38 28/(+4) 021 312 26 00, concierge@ casinobucharest.ro, w w w.casinobucharest.ro. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PLK
Pubs
Berarie Gambrinus B-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0744 31 51 10, www.berariegambrinus. ro. One of the most celebrated and historic pubs in Bucharest - haunt, for decades, of Caragiale, Gica Petrescu and every other local carouser - returns, this time as something of a Heinekenpub. There is some Romanian beer on tap though, Gambrinus, Silva and Ciuc, available by the metre if thats what you fancy. Theres some good pub grub too, not least the sausages which were terrific.QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PSW Edgars Pub C-5, Str. Edgar Quinet 9, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 314 18 43. At lunchtime office boys and students mix happily as they tuck into great sandwiches and salads, while in the evening a similarly mixed crowd of good time people enjoys the laid back atmosphere always on offer here. It gets crowded downstairs at weekends, but that just adds to the fun. Recently given a thorough makeover. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. PNSW
Grand Casino B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW
Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19
Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 08 00, marriott@grandcasinoromania.com, www. grandcasinoromania.com. Q Open 24 hrs.
Metropolis Casino B-5, Str. Calea Victoriei 37B
(Novotel), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0742 07 91 19, (+4) 0742 07 91 20/(+4) 021 367 34 12, contact@ metropoliscasinobucharest.ro, www.metropoliscasinobucharest.ro. Q Open 24hrs. PLKW
Platinum Casino B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radis-
Energiea B-6, Str. Brezoianu 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0736 37 44 32, www.energiea.ro. We like this place a lot: the high ceilings and big windows make it a good choice day and night, the original (we think?) floor looks great and there are a number of different rooms, not all of which carry the industrial-chic look of the main bar. Best of all though we Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com
son Blu), tel. (+4) 031 710 22 34, (+4) 0720 22 74 66, platinum@platinumcasino.ro, www.platinumcasino.ro. Q Open 24 hrs. PLK
Johnson Grand Plaza), MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4) 0372 76 34 45, www.queen-casino.ro. Q Open 24 hrs. PRULKW
Queen Casino B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard
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very good attempt at an English breakfast to a decent pint of both Guinness and Kilkenny you can add their own beer, Primus, a decent-tasting bargain. The huge windows make it feel much like a street cafe. Service is good too, and we love the retro-style black and white tiled floor. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PBW
NIGHTlIfE
Vice Advice
Wth more brothels, massage parlours and sex shops per square inch than most places in Eastern Europe, you could be forgiven for thinking Bucharest was the sex capital of the continent. You could also be forgiven for thinking that prostitution was legal: we can assure you of the fact that it certainly isnt, despite any and all appearances. This being Romania however, the law is more a minor obstacle to be overcome than a serious impediment, so you can indeed get away with sin, sin and more sin anytime you like, though discretion remains essential. If you are looking for sins of the flesh, you basically have three options: one legal, one not exactly legal but not exactly illegal either, and one completely illegal. The legal option (and the only option we recommend) is erotic massage at a reputable massage parlour. You will almost certainly not be offered any sexual encounters at these places, but there is still much fun to be had, from simple hand assistance to full body massage from one, two or even three nubile young ladies. Prices start at around 50 though climb higher at the more central, luxurious establishments. The second (and not-always-above-board) option is to simply head for a brothel (surely erotic nightclub? Ed). These establishments advertise themselves in seedy publications as legitimate strip clubs, but act mainly as fronts for whorehouses, usually run by very dodgy, and often quite dangerous businessmen. After sitting yourself down at a table you will be served expensive drinks, before being joined by some very bored and not always attractive young ladies (most of Romanias best-looking prostitutes are allegedly plying their trade in Germany and the Czech Republic). These girls sometimes lap dance for you, and always try to convince you to buy them cocktails (in fact orange juice with an umbrella, usually costing about 15). After half an hour of bored conversation you will be asked if you would like to retreat to a more intimate location, usually a room above, or even in, the night club itself. For an hour of whatever it is you fancy expect to pay a minimum of 100, as well as the obligatory bottle of sparkling wine, which usually costs at least another 50. All this on top of the tab you have already run up of course. But be careful. Not all of these night clubs are worth your time. Indeed, some can allegedly cause you physical harm. A recent Romanian newspaper report claimed that a group of American soldiers were recently beaten up in one such establishment (apparently on Str. Ion Campineanu, opposite the Novotel ) after refusing to pay a bill of 3,000. Approach all night clubs with caution: check the adult entertainment section of our website: bucharest. inyourpocket.com for a list of those we can vouch for. The third (and entirely illegal) option is to call one of the escorts who advertise in many of the poor quality city guides found around town. These escorts are usually unattractive prostitutes who charge 150 upwards for sex. Bait and switch operations (you order an 18 year-old with large breasts and you get a 48 year-old with large everything) are commonplace, and you should really think twice before calling them. not the kind of place for people who use public transport anyway.Q Open 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PLEW
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Romanian Beer
Romania has a long, proud history of brewing good beer, and while today there are just 20 breweries in the country (there were more than 120 breweries in 1989), such statistics do not tell the whole story of beer in Romania, which is far from being a sorry one. With large amounts of investment from big foreign brewers the countrys best known beers have been saved from extinction and improved, and in a number of cases new brews launched: the current trend for unfiltered and lemon beers (see below) is one such example. Fortunately for the visitor, improvements in quality have not increased prices: Romania remains home to one of the cheapest pints of beer in Europe. (We have long suggested that the countrys marketing people use the fact in their international campaigns!) The best known local brands of beer are probably Ursus, Ciuc and Timisoreana. Ursus has been brewed since the 1870s, and if you ask ten Romanians what the national beer is, it is likely that at least nine will respond Ursus. Both Ursus and Timisoreana (brewed since 1718) are now owned by SAB Miller, which also produces the smaller brands Ciucas, Azuga and Stejar. Ciuc (along with Silva) is owned by Heineken, while Carlsbergs locally brewed Tuborg is also ubiquitous and very popular. Other notable beers include Interbrews Bergenbier. Unfiltered wheat beers (bere nefiltrata) are very popular in Romania, the best probably being Ciucs, though you should also keep a look out for Paulaners white beer, found on tap in a number of Bucharest bars and pubs. Also worth trying is the dark, bitter Ursus Black, a very different beer to most local brews. Silvas Strong Dark is similar and equally good. During the summer, look out for lower alcohol radler or lemon beers. Most of the local breweries produce one. A few venues in Bucharest have microbreweries, producing their own beer, or at least serve their own bespoke brew made elsewhere: Caru cu bere, Oktoberfest and Biutiful are three such places. Imported beers are popular amongst young, wealthy urbanites, and you should never have too much trouble finding the major international brands: Heineken , Carlsberg, Peroni, Leffe, Hoegaarden and Stella Artois are all popular in Romania. And while imported beer is usually a couple of lei more expensive than the local stuff, no beer in Romania is likely to cost more than 10-12 lei, even in a club or trendy bar. A pint (or the local equivalent) of local draught (la halba) beer costs from 7-8 lei, often even cheaper. The one exception is Guinness. Found all over the country (it is very popular amongst Romanians, who have taken to it like ducks to water) it is also relatively expensive. Key Romanian words on the beer front include la halba (draught) and la sticla (bottled). Make sure you know what you are ordering: you really wouldnt want to end up with a bottle of Guinness now, would you? In most bars and restaurants the menu lists draught and bottled beers separately.
BOA (Beat of Angels) B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4)

0736 30 07 00, www.boaclub.ro. From the outside a fairly nondescript building that looks vaguely like a warehouse, but once in, wow! It is an enormous place that mixes luxury with great music courtesy of two top local resident DJs. There is plenty of space to dance, plenty of places to chill out and even the toilets are spacious and damn well luxurious. You will leave wanting to go back and cursing your luck that it is only open twice a week. Oh, and wear sunglasses, everybody else seems to! QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PLEBW
Shift C-4, Str. Eremia Grigorescu 17, tel. (+4) 021
211 22 72, www.shiftpub.ro. Its doubtful that youve seen anything like this place in Bucharest before. Shift is a Bohemian restaurant/bar/club of some style. It is, in a word, gorgeous, and has been packed since opening day with the hippest and coolest people in the land. Late at night this is the smartest chill-out venue in the city, and we (and just about everybody else) love it. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. PSW
Terminus B-5, Str. George Enescu 5, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 318 16 67/(+4) 0730 22 25 55, www. terminus.ro. Pub/bar on the ground floor, while downstairs there is a basement bar which becomes more a nightclub with an industrial feel as the evening wears on. Theres a big bar and getting a drink - once not easy - is now a joy thanks to top staff. The central location right between the Radisson and Hilton guarantees it a steady flow of thirsty visitors. Guinness on tap. QOpen 09:30 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 06:00. PW
021 231 27 95, www.whitehorse.ro. The White Horse has been around so long it should probably consider going out to stud. Or should it? On a recent visit we found it to be in surprisingly good shape, and packed with both locals of the ordinary people variety, as well as group of rowdy expats. There is still good food in the more formal part upstairs, with bar snacks served down. We have always loved the square bar. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PBSW
14, www.facebook.com/chaos.venue. Smashing live music club. Expect good - mainly local but often foreign - live acts most nights of the week, with a reasonably big name performing at least once or twice a month. Good beer, a very good atmosphere and a real favourite of big groups of friends looking for a great night out. You can eat here too: theres a restaurant serving some terrific, big-portioned Romanian food on site. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PLEBSW
Chaos E-6, Str. Turturelelor 11, tel. (+4) 0731 49 51
White Horse B-3, Str. George Clinescu 4A, tel. (+4)
Club Eden B-4, Calea Victoriei 107, MPIata Romana,
NEW
Clubs & Discos

Bucharests club scene is dynamic and one of the best in this part of Europe. There is just about something for every taste, from mega-clubs bringing in top foreign DJs each week to local live music venues.
tel. (+4) 0726 57 78 98. Boasting one of the best addresses in the city this seriously underground club is the talk of the town this winter. Descend into the cellars of the Stirbei Palace and lose yourself in a veritable warren of a venue where trendy young locals have already made a home for themselves. An old cellar is not going to be everyones cup of tea, and the beer is not the cheapest in town, but the music is good and for the sheer hell of it, its worth trying. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. sitate, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61, www.control-club.ro. Still tops our list of clubs for people who do not like clubs. It is a brilliant place where there is always something going on, be it a DJ or live music supplied by one of Bucharests better live acts. Note also that it opens early afternoon: it is now a pub as much as a club. Fantastic.QOpen 13:00 03:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 06:00. PEW
Control Club C-5, Str. Constantin Mille 4, MUniver-
Barletto Club Str. Oltetului 30, tel. (+4) 0751 04 04 06, www.barletto.ro. It has now had a few names this place, but it remains one of the citys best, most exclusive and of course most expensive uber-clubs. Featuring some of the sexiest dancers in Romania Friday and Saturday nights here are wild. The music is supplied by the worlds best DJs. You will need to take a taxi here, but then this is
Jazz Clubs
Art Jazz Club B-4, Calea Victoriei 52, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0731 64 59 18, www.artjazzclub.ro. Art Jazz Club hosts three or four jazz concerts every week. The quality of the music is almost always good, and the drinks are amongst the cheapest in the area. Entrance is actually through a small door next to a little car park behind the Senate, rather than on Balcescu as the address suggests. QOpen 17:30 - 04:00. PENW
Green Hours Jazz Caf B-4, Calea Victoriei 120, tel.

(+4) 0788 45 24 85, www.greenhours.ro. There is live jazz here alongside and other arty stuff - including theatre, comedy, book launches and the like - most evenings. Popular with a crowd that encompasses all ages, its definitely a place you should visit once before leaving Bucharest. QCafe open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Check the venues website for concert details. PENBW
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Cuzco Club C-4, Str. Mendeelev 35, tel. (+4) 0722 50 17 93, www.cuzcoclub.ro. One of the biggest clubs in central Bucharest. Offers a mix of house and South American beats on the music front, as well as regular live events. Its a bit classier than your average Bucharest club, and the crowd it attracts is a rich mix of age groups. No chance of feeling either too young or too old here. Worth a look. QOpen 20:00 - 08:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Deja-vu C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 25, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 311 23 22, www.dejavu-club.ro. A place that goes from strength to strength. Still the best cocktail bar this side of the River Prut, it is now open during the day for food too: you could spend your whole life in here. The draw though remain the participatory cocktails, some of which involve fire, and a few which involve wearing a World War II Russian army helmet. They also serve at least one which involves a young Russian girl squeezing lemon into your mouth with her teeth. At weekends it is packed and the small dancefloor is the sweatiest place in Bucharest. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00. PENW out in the Romanian capital. It has been in a few locations over the years, but the latest, in a converted cinema close to the city centre is - in our opinion - the best yet. Whats more, unlike a few clubs of the upmarket kind, which are merely for posing, Kristal has a proper dance floor for those who actually like to enjoy themselves. Get in there. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PNW
WHAT TO SEE
Essential Bucharest
The first port of call for any visitor to Bucharest these days should probably be the Old Town (see page 72). After that you can head for the sights we list here. The Peasant and Village Museums should take priority, as well as the Grigore Antipa National History Museum. The most famous building in the city and usually top of the agenda for most visitors, Casa Poporului/Palatul Parlamentului tends to be a bit of a let down, but is a must nevertheless. Art lovers should pencil in at least an afternoon at the National Art Museum, while last but not least, the Bellu Cemetery is a wonderful trip through Romanian literary, artistic and political history.
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Bellu Cemetery
Calea Serban Voda 249, MEroii Revolutiei, tel. (+4) 021 636 35 71, www.bellu.ro. Founded in the 1850s, this is Bucharests most historic cemetery, the final resting place of just about every great Romanian academic, scientist, artist, writer, musician and poet you can think of, as well as the odd politician. Each has his or her own plot, usually with an accompanying monument (our favourite is that devoted to the comic actor Toma Caragiu, tragically killed in the Bucharest earthquake of 1977). You could spend half a day here wandering between the gravestones, memorials and statues (the graves are grouped by profession: scientists in one part, actors in another etc). You should also be sure to visit the central chapel (which keeps the same hours as the cemetery itself), built in the 1880s in the style of the cathedral at Karlovy Vary and boasting stunning interior paintings. Next to the cemetery is the Cimitirul Eroilor, where those killed in Bucharest during the 1989 revolution are buried. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
Kulturhaus C-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 4, MPiata Unirii/Univer-
sitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 55 92, www.kulturhaus.ro. The student favourite. A nakedly non-commercial club that attracts a nakedly non-commercial crowd on two levels offering hard rock, folk rock, new wave, punk and indie upstairs, and pretty much the same downstairs (though it depends on the DJ...) Has a live band playing at least once a week, bags of other events and refreshingly says NO to table service: yes, you will have to get your sorry ass to the bar to get a drink. We are fans. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PLE
MPiata Unirii/Izvor, tel. (+4) 0733 97 47 28/(+4) 0726 80 41 42, www.expirat.org. A club with two faces. Expirat is home to some of Bucharests most eclectic sounds, and as it has an OtherSide (Expirats club within a club), chances are there is bound to be something going on you fancy. The music policy is a bit of everything: folk (usually live on Mondays), electro, alternative, rock and indie with hip-hop, reggae and disco sometimes thrown in for good measure. (Check the venues Facebook page to see whats on the night you fancy going). Drinks are well priced, and there are two bars meaning that you never have to wait too long to get served. Top notch. Q Open 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (Expirat); 20:00 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. (The OtherSide). PEW fratelli.ro. One of Bucharests uber-clubs, where the richest and best looking people in the city come to see and be seen. Serving up a neverending supply of top DJs from both Romania and abroad, it is clear that the people who run this place consider the music to be as important as anything else: something not every club in this town can boast. Not cheap (kind of the point) if you stick to the beer and do not sit at a table (which requires you buy a bottle of spirits) then you can still have a reasonably priced night out here. Brilliant. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PL
Expirat & OtherSide Club B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 4,
Moonlight Club C-4, Str. Mendeleev 32, tel. (+4) 0724 75 13 51. Now prefaced by Moonlight, this is still in many ways the Downtown as many will remember it, complete with girls dancing on the bar in their underwear and some of the liveliest theme nights in the city. Big and cavernous it nevertheless always seems to be packed out, a sign of its enduring popularity. Hosts regular events, including stand-up comedy (of the Romanian variety). QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. PLEW Music Club C-6, Str. Baratiei 31, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0720 88 71 15, www.music-club.ro. A live music venue where youll find a great resident band most evenings performing creditable covers of all your favourite classic hits. They are more often than not joined on stage in the early hours by leading Romanian musicians who have quickly made this place their preferred haunt. Very nice indeed: be prepared to have a very good time. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. PEW 0766 05 61 70, www.panic-club.ro. Panic!, possibly the first club in Bucharest named after a song by The Smiths, offers a mix of music centering on (but in no way confined to) alternative rock. There are plenty of live acts performing regularly and theres always a good crowd of music lovers to share it all with. Refreshingly, its open every night of the week (many clubs in Bucharest are not) and there is always, always something going on. Get in. QOpen 14:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 06:00. PEW
Botanical Gardens Sos. Cotroceni 32, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 410 91 39, www.gradina-botanica.ro. For locals, this is one of the citys most popular attractions. Attracted by its relatively central location, easy parking on surrounding streets, cheap entrance fee and most of all by the fabulous greenhouses, the garden is a gorgeous place and is packed at weekends. The garden, administratively part of Bucharest Universitys Botanical Institute, was founded in 1860 and today extends over an area of more than 17 hectares, and hosts more than 10,000 species of plants, approximately half of which are cultivated in the impressive glasshouses. The Botanical Garden is also home to the Botanical Museum.Q Gardens open 08:0020:00. Botanical Museum open 10:00-15:00, 09:00-13:00 Sat, Sun, closed Fri. Greenhouses open 10:00-13:00, closed Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission to the gardens 5.00 lei, students and children 2.00 lei. Museum and greenhouses cost extra: 2 lei adults, 1 leu children. Casa Poporului (Parliament Palace; Palatul Parlamentului) B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, MIzvor,
Fratelli Str. Glodeni 1-3, tel. (+4) 0731 03 62 22, www.
Panic! C-5, Str. Academiei 19, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
Kristal Glam Club B-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 34, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 79 51 84, www.clubkristal.ro. Bucharests longest-running uber-club, still probably your first reference point for top international DJs and hedonistic nights
The Silver Church A-5, Calea Plevnei 61, MIzvor, tel. (+4) 0723 37 90 26, www.tscarena.ro. A great place to see good local bands. Looking (inside) very much like a, well. silver church (albeit one which has dropped plenty of acid), its a cavernous venue with terrific acoustics and it is this mix of big club/small concert hall that gives it the edge over some other venues. So good is the sound that the biggest local bands are playing here simply for the hell of it. A winner. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. PUE
83, www.tribute.ro. Besides a fantastic resident band, Tribute is also regularly host to a number of the best live acts in the business, who love the atmosphere provided by a great crowd and wonderful acoustics. Basically, if the excitement of live music is what you are looking for, this is one first class venue. Bang in the city centre (its on Calea Victoriei) its a great choice if you are stuck in a downtown pub thinking about where to move on to. Plan on staying late. Q Open 22:00 - 06:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PEW
Tribute B-4, Calea Victoriei 118, tel. (+4) 0728 74 28
tel. (+4) 021 311 36 11, www.cdep.ro. Construction of Romanias most famous building, Palatul Parlamentului (known universally as Casa Poporului) began in 1984, during the darkest days of the Nicolae Ceausescu regime. Standing 84m above ground level on 12 floors, the building has long been shrouded in mystery, rumour and hyperbole. Originally designed (by a young architect: Anca Petrescu, who was just 28 at the time) to house almost all the organs of the communist state, it today plays host to the Romanian parliament and a modern, well equipped conference centre, as well as Romanias Museum of Contemporary Art. Much of the building, however, remains unused. The public tour of the building is thoroughly recommended (it is the only way to see the building, in fact) though the commentary often consists of little more than a guide reeling off endless superlative statistics. Youll see plenty of grand staircases, marble-plated halls and conference rooms, while - if you pay the extra - you may also have the chance to go on the roof, which offers perhaps the best view of central Bucharest. You can even now take a trip into the bowels of the building down below, though again this costs extra. To join one of the tours, you should make reservations a day in advance as parliamentary business means the official opening hours are subject to change. You will also need to bring your passport, driving license or other form of internationally accepted ID. Use the entrance on the right-hand side of the palace (if youre looking at it front-on). Izvor is probably the nearest metro station, but youll get a better view from Piata Unirii. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00 (last tour 15:30). Admission 25 lei adults, 13 lei students (standard tour); 30 lei adults, 13 lei students (standard and basement); 35 lei adults, 18 lei students (standard and terrace); 45 lei adults, 23 lei students (standard, terrace and basement). Free for children under 18 and the disabled. An additional fee of 30.00 lei is payable by those with cameras, either still or video.
Enescu) B-4, Calea Victoriei 141, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 14 50, www.georgeenescu.ro. Mistakenly believed to be the great Romanian composer George Enescus former home, this outstanding Secession house was in fact built for landowner George Cantacuzino in 1905, and many older Bucharest residents still refer to it as the Cantacuzino Palace. It became state property in 1955, the year of Enescus death, and a year later opened as a museum dedicated to his life and work. You will find rooms full of the usual memorabilia and artefacts from the eventful life of Romanias most famous composer, as well as a full telling of the story of Romanian music in general. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6 lei, children 1.50 lei. Free entry on the 26th of each month. Grigore Antipa Museum of Natural History (Muzeul de Istorie Natural Grigore Antipa) B-3, os. Kiseleff
George Enescu Museum (Muzeul National George
1, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 312 88 26, www. antipa.ro. One of Romanias finest museums, and one of the best natural history museums in Europe, which recently benefited from a three year, 14 million refit. Packed with terrific exhibits (including the obligatory dinosaur skeletons) which will keep kids of all ages and their parents occupied for the best part of the day, there are all sorts of hands-on, interactive displays, as well as 3D films, artificial caves and - in the basement - a thorough guide to the incredible amount of animal and plant life native to Romania. The building which houses it all is itself worthy of note, purpose built in 1908 at the behest of Grigore Antipa, a noted Romanian naturalist who then set-up and ran the museum for almost five decades until his death in 1944. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. From November 1 Open 10:00-18:00, Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 15 lei, pensioners 10 lei, children/students 5 lei.
30/(+4) 021 314 81 19, www.mnar.arts.ro. The countrys largest, and most impressive art collection is housed inside the splendid former Royal Palace, first built in 1812 as a private home by the wealthy trader Dinicu Golescu. When his sons fell into financial ruin some years later, they were forced to sell the building to the state, which carried out huge modifications, adding a number of new wings. It became a royal residence in 1859, when it became the site of the court of the first prince of the united principalities, Alexandru Ion Cuza. Although slightly remodelled in the 1930s, the building we see today is more or less the original. There are two permanent
National Art Museum (MNAR; Muzeul National de Arta) B/C-5, Calea Victoriei 49-53, tel. (+4) 021 313 30
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galleries, split over three floors of the main building. National Art (itself divided into Medieval Romanian Art - featuring icons, carved altars, illustrated manuscripts and bibles, and fragments of frescoes, and Modern Romanian Art, with all of Romanias greatest 20th century artists well represented, including Theodor Aman, Constantin Brancui, Gheorghe Patracu, and Gheorghe Tattarescu); and European Paintings and Sculpture, which plays host to a fine collection of Old European Masters from all of the major schools. The museum also hosts a fine selection of temporary exhibitions, currently including frescoes from the Arges Monastery, and the works of Carol Popp de Szathmri and the artistic revelation of the Orient. Essential. Q Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 8 lei for The Gallery of European Art, 10 lei for The National Gallery (T reasure included) and 15 lei for combined tickets (both galleries). os. Kiseleff 3, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 317 96 61, www.muzeultaranuluiroman.ro. The Peasant Museum is one of the most enjoyable in Bucharest, and one of the best in the country. Housed in a wonderful red brick building designed by Nicolae Ghica-Budeti, dating from 1912, the museum offers a range of exhibitions showing you all you need to know about the diverse and fascinating history of life around the Romanian countryside over the past four centuries. There are exhibitions covering all aspects of Romanian peasant life, from handpainted Easter eggs to terracotta pottery, from colourful religious icons to a huge range of traditional clothing. Replicas of some of what is on display can be bought in the excellent museum shop. Fittingly for the building that from 1948-89 was home to the Museum of the Communist Party and Romanian Revolutionary Workers Movement, there is a collectivisation exhibition in the basement. The museum hosts craft fairs in its courtyard at least once a month. It also puts on childrens puppet shows at weekends (usually at 10:30 and 12:00, Saturday and Sunday) and has a cafe. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last admission 17:00. Admission 8 lei, students and children 2 lei, pensioners 4 lei. There are audioguides available in English, French, German and Romanian from 12 lei. Entrance to the craft fairs usually costs around 6 lei.
WHAT TO SEE
Casa Presei Libere (Casa Scnteii) A-1, Piata Presei Libere 1. An impressive edifice standing somewhat menacingly at the entrance to the capital, Casa Scanteii (as it is still universally known) was designed by architect Horia Maicu and completed in 1956, one year after the strikingly similar (though much taller) Palace of Science and Culture in Warsaw, Poland. Originally housing the editorial offices of almost all of the capitals newspapers, it today carries out much the same function. Jurnalul Naional, one of the countrys most popular dailies, is just one newspaper still produced here. The facade - once rather fetching - has in recent years been defaced by the addition of advertising hoardings. CEC B-4, Calea Victoriei 13. The home of the National
Savings Bank (Casa de Economii si Consemnaiuni; CEC) is one of the most fabulous Neo-Classical facades in the city: the enormous arch that houses the entrance, with its mighty Corinthian columns, is a highlight of any architectural tour of Bucharest. Built during the last decade of the nineteenth century, to the designs of French architect Paul Gottereau, the building is no less impressive on the inside, not least the huge entrance hall with its sensational glass roof, and dome that nods towards the style of later Byzantine cathedrals.
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Peasant Museum (Muzeul Taranului Roman) B-3,
Palatul din Piata Victoriei (Palatul Victoriei) B-4, B-dul Ilie Pintilie 1, MPiata Victoriei. Today the home of the Romanian government, this linear construction, with its marble facade, was built in 1937 to the designs of Duiliu Marcu, originally to house the Foreign Ministry (which is now elsewhere, on Aleea Alexandu, in a far less grand building). Note that ever since several thousand uninvited coal miners trashed the place in 1991, entrance to the building has been granted only to those on government business.
Buildings with a history

Bucharest has a number of curious, historical buildings, which fit none of our other categories all that well. As a result, weve thrown them all together here, under the heading Buildings with a history.
Bucharests Historic Churches

Antim Monastery (Manastirea Antim) B-6, Str. Antim
29. The splendid Antim Monastery, with its elegant dome and gold finish was constructed between 1708 and 1715 on the orders of polymath Antim Ivireanul, patriarch of the Orthodox Church in Wallachia at the time. Antim originally intended the monastery to be a refuge for fallen women, and refugees, as well as a seat of learning. The bell tower through which we today enter the monastery was added in 1857. The monastery church is particularly worth admiring, for its sumptuous icons featuring scenes from the Nativity and Revelations, painted in 1812 by Petre Alexandrescu.
021 317 91 10, www.muzeul-satului.ro. Outstanding. Founded by Royal Decree in 1936, and covering some 15 hectares on the shores of Lake Herstru, Muzeul Satului is one of the greatest outdoor museums in the Balkans. There are more than 60 original houses, farmsteads, windmills, watermills and churches from all of Romanias historic regions: Transylvania, Oltenia, Dobrogea and Moldavia. Every exhibit has a plaque showing exactly where in Romania it was brought from; some even now have recorded commentary in four languages (press the second button for English). Most of the houses date from the mid 19th-century, but there are some, such as those from Berbeti, in the heart of Romania - celebrated for their intricately carved entrances - which date from as early as 1775. The highlight of the museum is probably the steep belfry of the wooden Maramure church, complete with exquisite but faded icons. You should also not miss the earth houses of Straja, dug in to the ground and topped with thatched roofs, or the brightly painted dwellings of the Danube Delta. The museum has a great souvenir shop, and a stall selling traditional Romanian sweets and cakes. It even has a restaurant, La Francu, set in an original 19th-century inn. Children love the museum, and it makes for a perfect family outing. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Mon 09:00 17:00. Admission 10 lei, pensioners 5 lei, students/children 2.50 lei. Audio guides available for 50 lei, guided tours in English, French, Spanish, Italian, Russian 300 lei: call in advance). Note that while the museum is open on Mondays, the houses are not.
Village Museum (Muzeul Naional al Satului Dimitrie Gusti) A-2, Sos. Kiseleff 28-30, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4)
Arcul de Triumf A-2, Piata Arcul de Triumf, MAviatorilor. Bucharests Arc de T riumf was raised in 1922 to commemorate Romanias World War I dead. The original Arc was made of wood, replaced by the present, Petru Antonescu designed concrete structure only in 1935. Standing 25 metres high, the Arc has a staircase that allows visitors to climb to the terrace on the top of the monument, though it is closed most of the time and only opened on special occasions (usually on national holidays). The sculptures and reliefs that decorate the monument were created by the leading artists of the day, including Ion Jalea, Constantin Medrea and Constantin Baraschi. Atheneum (Ateneul Romn) C-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin
1-3, tel. (+4) 021 315 25 67, www.fge.org.ro. Possibly the finest building in the city, the Romanian Atheneum, with its sublime baroque cupola, stands proudly at the flux of the citys busiest public square, competing with the Athenee Palace Hilton hotel, the Royal Palace and the old national library for attention. The work of French architect Albert Galleron, who also designed the National Bank of Romania, the building was inaugurated on February 26, 1888, and was built almost entirely with money donated by ordinary citizens of the capital, when a campaign called Give a penny for the Atheneum (Dati un leu pentru Ateneu) rescued the project from folly after the original patrons ran out of funds. Today the seat of the Romanian Philarmonic George Enescu, the auditorium can seat 800 spectators comfortably, and is renowned worldwide for its outstanding acoustics.
do know that it predates the Radu Voda monastery opposite, first constructed in 1506. Today, the Bucur Church is often ignored, hidden as it is on a hill above the street and hemmed in by two blocks. The current church was built around 1720 (thoroughly renovated in 1909-10) to serve as a chapel for the cemetery of the Radu Voda monastery. The church is named for Bucur the Shepherd, the legendary founder of Bucharest.
Colea Church (Biserica Colea) C-5, B-dul Nicolae
Apostles Church (Biserica Sfintii Apostoli) B-6, Str. Sfintii Apostoli 33A, MPiata Unirii. One of the oldest churches in Bucharest (with parts dating back to the 16th century, when it served as the church of the Trnovului Monastery) the Apostles Church is notable for its sublime steeple, built in 1715, and restored in 1936. Inside the church is brimming with some rather strange portraits, all of which are well worth seeing. Among the portraits are those of the churchs founder, Voivod Matei. Baratiei Church (Biserica Baratiei) C-6, Str. Baratiei 27, MPiata Unirii/Universitate. Almost poking into Bulevardul Bratianu, this particular Roman-Catholic church was built in 1828, although there has been a church here since the late 1590s. Boasting a couple of superb stained-glass windows the church holds services in Romanian and Hungarian. The name, Baratiei, derives from the Hungarian word for friend, barat. Bucur Church C-7, Str. Radu Voda 33, www.bisericabucur.ro. First built as early as the 1300s, this could well be the site of the oldest church in Bucharest. Nobody is exactly sure how long there has been a church here, but we
Blcescu 1, MUniversitate. To the left (face on) of the Colea Hospital, the church of the same name was built from 1701-2 on the site of an older, wooden construction. Recent renovation has restored much of the rich ornamentation of the interior, most of which was painted in 1876 by Gheorghe Tattarescu. Look out for the Cantacuzino family crest above the vaguely Italian baroque portal. (The church - like the hospital which surrounds it - was founded by courtier Mihai Cantacuzino).
Creulescu Church (Biserica Creulescu) C-5, Calea Victoriei 47, MUniversitate. Probably the most celebrated historic church in Bucharest. Biserica Creulescu was raised from 1720-2 by Iordache Creulescu and his wife Safta, a daughter of Romanian humanitarian Constantin Brncoveanu. The outstanding paintings on the entrance are original, the work of an unknown artist, while the interior icons were added in 1859 by the prolific Gheorghe Tattarescu. Damaged during the fighting of December 1989, the church has recently been restored to its full glory, and is a must. Doamnei Church (Biserica Maicii Domnului) C-5,
Calea Victoriei 28, MUniversitate. One of Bucharests many hidden churches: find it in the little courtyard behind Pizza Hut on the corner of Calea Victoriei and Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta. The church dates from 1683, and was built on the orders of Princess Maria, wife of Prince Serban Cantacuzino. The church was the first
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in the city to boast octagonal stone pillars: note the decorative floral motifs of oriental origin at the foot and top of each column. They also decorate the door. B-6, Str. Sfintii Apostoli, MPiata Unirii. Built in 1885, the church is named after Constantin Brncoveanus sixth daughter, who built an earlier church on the site in 1744, but which burnt down soon after. In 1751 a second church was built; but that was also later damaged, during an earthquake in 1838. Building work almost immediately started on a third church, but that too proved unstable and just 40 years later it was replaced by the current Neo-Romanesque building. Serious cracks that appeared after another earthquake in 1940 were repaired in the 1960s, only to be damaged again in the massive earthquake of 1977.
Domnia Balaa Church (Biserica Domnia Balaa)
Schitul Darvari (Darvari Hermitage) C-5, Str. Schitul Darvari 3, www.schituldarvari.ro. The walled Schitul Darvari, with its lovely grounds - is a gorgeous oasis of peace and quiet in busy central Bucharest. Founded in 1834 by Mihai Darvari and his wife Elena - who purchased the site from the Biserica Icoanei - it was originally a private church for the Darvari family and their close acquaintances. Renovated extensively in 1894 and again from 1933-4, a community of monks lived here continuously from 1835 to 1959, when they were forced to move to Cernica Monastery by Romanias communist authorities. The church is richly decorated both inside and out.
Museums
B-4, Calea Victoriei 111, tel. (+4) 021 212 96 41/(+4) 021 212 96 42. Firstly, a few words about the building. The Casa Romanit was constructed in 1822 as a private residence, but was bought by the state in 1883 and used as the countrys supreme court. After the communist takeover in the 1940s it was used as a dumping ground for the collections of wealthy Romanians not allowed to retain their art by the regime. There are some fantastic works on show, including paintings by all of Romanias greatest artists, from Nicolae Grigorescu to Theodor Pallady. In terms of artistic importance the collections here are second only to those at the National Museum of Art. Q Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Thu, Fri. Admission 7.00 lei, students/children 3.50 lei.
Art Collection Museum (Muzeul Colectiilor de Art)
Icon Church (Biserica Icoanei) C-4, Str. Icoanei 12. The Church of the Icon is named after the 17th century icon of the Holy Virgin in the nave, a gift from Constantin Brncoveanu. A wooden church was built on this site as early 1681-82, the first brick church being erected in 1745-50, only for it to collapse during a devastating earthquake in 1838. Rebuilt the same year, the high altar was added in 1850. Note the grave of General Ioan Odobescu (1793-1857) alongside the church, adorned with a helmet.
C-5, B-dul N. Blcescu 28, MUniversitate. Juxtaposed by 1930s blocks on the busiest street in the city, the red brick Italian church looks a little uncomfortable in its setting. Look at it from the other side of the road however, and its glorious Neo-Gothic exterior, complete with Florentine tower is quite stunning. The church is owned by the Italian government.
Italian Church (Chiesa Italiana/Biserica Italian)
New St. Georges Church (Biserica Sf. Gheorghe Nou) C-6, Piata Sf. Gheorghe, MPiata Unirii. The largest
of the churches built in Bucharest during the reign of Constantin Brncoveanu, New St. Georges Church was consecrated on June 29th, 1707. It was a wonder of the age, having been designed by an Italian, Vaseleli, and decorated by the great Romanian maestros of the times: the painter Mutu, the carpenter Istrate and the sculptor Caragea. Damaged in a fire in 1847, the church was renovated from 1852-3 by the Spanish architect Villacrosse. New and outstanding interior murals were added by Marian Popp. Brncoveanu is himself allegedly buried under the church.
Cotroceni Museum B-dul Geniului 1, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 317 31 07, www.muzeulcotroceni.ro. Constructed from 1888-93 at the behest of Romanias first king, Carol I, Cotroceni Palace has since 1991 been the official residence of the Romanian President. Built on the site of a former monastery (the foundations and cellars of which remain, and form part of the tour of the palace), the palace was designed by a French team of architects, led by Paul Gottereau. Part of the palace is open to the public, and can be visited on a tour. You will see a number of function rooms, many of which were decorated to the whims of Marie, the English wife of Carols heir, Ferdinand.QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 27.00 lei, students and children 21.00 lei. Admission includes entrance and the compulsory guided tour. Tours are available in Romanian, French and English. Last tour begins at 16:30.
Patriarchal Cathedral (Patriarhia) C-6/7, Str. Dealul

Mitropoliei, MPiata Unirii. Known as Mitropoliei, the Patriarchal Cathedral has been the centrepiece of the Romanian Orthodox faith since the seventeenth century. Built to a design based on the Curtea de Arges, near Pitesti, it has undergone a number of facelifts over the years, but the overwhelming majority of the cathedrals structure is the original, built between 1654 and 1658. The outstanding bell-tower at the entrance was built in 1698, and restored in 1958. Next to the church - and closed to the public - is the Patriarchal Palace, residence of the Patriarch of the Romanian Orthodox Church. It was built in 1708.
Contemporary Art Galleries

C-5, Str. C.A. Rosetti 2-4, tel. (+4) 0376 20 31 77, www.galateca.ro. A gallery of applied art, housed in the rather splendid University Library on Piata Revolutiei. Features local and international contemporary artists, while the NeoGalateca shop sells fashion, accessories and designer objects from names including Muuto, Pols Potten, Seletti and ToyWatch, as well as local designers Andreea Badala (Murmur), Carla Szabo, Lucian Broscatean, Miki Puran (Maracuja), Cosmina Nicolescu (Fandacsia), Agnes Keszeg and Ciprian Vrabie. QOpen 12:00 20:00, Sat 11:00 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Galateca Gallery (NeoGalateca Gallery-Shop)
C-6, Str. Radu Vod 24A, MPiata Unirii. The church of the former Radu Vod Monastery stands on a hill on the banks of the Dmbovia, though the construction of the Civic Centre hid it from the river and from general view. There was originally a wooden church on this site, built during the reign of Mihnea the Bad, around 1508. The monastery was added in 1570, and was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. The present church - which resembles the Curtea de Arge, outside Piteti - dates from 1613-4, though it was extensively rebuilt during the 19th century, when the frescoes (all the work of Gheorghe Tattarescu) were added. The painted interior of the bell tower is amazing.
Radu Vod Monastery (Mnstirea Radu Vod)
Zorzini Gallery C-5, Str. Thomas Masaryk 31, tel.
(+4) 0727 89 07 20, www.zorzinigallery.com. Fine contemporary art gallery working with both established and emerging Romanian artists that correspond to the gallerys aesthetic agenda, which includes graphics, painting, installation and mixed media. Currently represents Nicolae Comanescu, Andrei Gamart and Oana Lohan. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
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Sightseeing Tours
Cultural Travel & Tours Tel./fax (+4) 021 336 31 63, tel. (+4) 0724 71 88 48, office@cttours.ro, www. cttours.ro. CT&T provides tailor-made heritage sightseeing tours of Bucharest (from 29), a number of themed tours around Wallachia and Transylvania, and several nationwide tours of varying lengths. Other flexible services and guides in a variety of languages are available on request. Mr. Tripp C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 3, Et.1, Ap. 3, tel. (+4) 0745 75 27 53, booking@traveltobucharest.com, www. traveltobucharest.com. Mr. Tripp offers a number of terrific tours, not the least of which is the excellent value four-hour tour of Mogosoaia and Snagov for 49, which includes the tomb of Vlad Tepes (Dracula): notoriously difficult to get to independently. There is also a full-day trip of Sighisoara, Brasov and Sinaia (79), and they will even pick you up from, and drop you off back at, your hotel, for free. All entrance fees also included. RomaniaToGo Tel. (+4) 0733 55 78 50, office@ romania-to-go.com, www.romania-to-go.com. Visit Romania, pretty much all of it with these people. Besides organising no fewer than four tours of Bucharest (including a Communist Heritage Tour) there are also loads of Romania excursions to choose from too. These include Transylvania In One Day, RomaniaToGo, Must See Romania and Meeting Dracula. All tours feature free hotel pick-ups and drop-offs, Geology Museum B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 2, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 212 89 52, www.geology.ro. Bucharests Geology Museum is one of the citys best. First off, there is the museum building itself to admire. Built in 1906 on the orders of King Carol I to house what was then known as the Royal Romanian Geology Society, the building is a splendid example of Neo-Brancovenesque architecture, and is far more impressive than its red-brick neighbour, the Peasant Museum. The museums permanent collections are impressive in size and - being logically presented - clarity, with a decent number of English captions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8.00 lei, students and children 4.00 lei. There is an extra charge for cameras of 30 lei. Guided tours in Romanian 20 lei, English and French 30 lei. National Museum of Contemporary Art (MNAC; Muzeul National de Arta Contemporana) B-6, Calea
as well as a local guide. Can also arrange airport transfers.
WHAT TO SEE
city chooses to spend its Sunday afternoons here. The first thing you will see when entering the park from Piata Charles de Gaulle is a tall, bronze, rather bizarre statue of de Gaulle himself. Unveiled in 2006 the statue is the work of local artist Mircea Corneliu Spataru, and was commissioned by the Ministry of Culture to commemorate Bucharests hosting that year of the Francophonie conference. Charles de Gaulle is not the only historic figure honoured in this part of the park with a statue or bust. In fact, the alleyways and paths which fan out from the entrance are all dotted with famous people, from Romanian revolutionary Nicolae Balcescu to Bengali literatures most important figure, Rabindranath Tagore. Look out also for local artists Nicolae Grigorescu, Constantin Brancusi and Theodor Aman, as well as writers George Cosbuc, Alexandru Vlahuta and Romanias national poet, Mihai Eminescu. Other foreigners honoured with statues include William Shakespeare, Ady Endre, Sandor Petofi and Victor Hugo. Oh, and theres a memorial to Michael Jackson too. Yes, really. B-dul Tineretului, MTineretului. A large, mostly lovely park featuring some of the best playgrounds in the city. Divided into two parts, the main section (closest to Tineretului metro) offers a few rides for kids, trampolines and dodgems, as well as playgrounds and plenty of tree-lined avenues great for strolling. In the middle of the park is the Sala Polivalenta a popular venue for concerts and big indoor sporting events - set above a large artificial lake. Up by Sala Polivalenta you will also find the entrance to Oraselul Copiilor, a childrens funfair, complete with big wheel and other rides. It was recently renovated and is a good choice for families with kids. The best part of Tineretului however is probably the southern side, known as Parcul Vacaresti or Parcul Copiilor, on the corner of B-dul Tineretului and Calea Vacaresti. Here you will find the best and biggest childrens playgrounds in the city. There is also an old steam engine for kids to clamber on, a go-kart track, tennis courts, football pitches, volleyball and basketball courts.
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TransVision Tel. (+4) 0755 05 26 21, office@transvision.ro, www.transvision.ro. TransVision runs a number of tours around Romania, including a Dracula Tour which takes in Peles Castle, Rasnov Citadel and Dracula (Bran) Castle in Transylvania. The price is 59/person. Another option is a two-day tour of Transylvania, also including Sibiu, Sighisoara and Brasov. The price is 159/person and includes a night at a three-star hotel with breakfast. All tours include free pick-up and return from any Bucharest hotel, as well as the services of a professional English-speaking guide (other languages are availble on request). For both tours, if you book online and you can get a ten per cent discount.
021 232 03 31, (+4) 0735 52 57 10, reservations@ travelmaker.ro, www.bucharestcitytour.com. TravelMaker operates escorted group tours from and around Bucharest, an airport shuttle service and private transfers. Their half-day tour of the city (29) is an excellent introduction to Bucharest. They also provide hotel accommodation all over Romania, city break packages and short trips. The agency offers the only daily group tour (which anyone can join) to Peles Castle and Bran (Draculas) Castle for 69 per person. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. built to host the 1906 Romania Fair, a showcase of everything great in and about Romania at the time. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 4.00 lei, students, children 2.00 lei. Sptarului 22, tel. (+4) 021 211 49 79. Theodor Pallady (1871-1953) was an early Cubist artist widely regarded as Romanias most influential 20th century painter. Schooled in Dresden and Paris, Pallady was influenced by the Symbolist environment of the late 19th century, and his paintings before 1916 contain Symbolist motifs, sometimes with echoes of Moreau and Puvis de Chavannes. Alas the small museum that today bears his name has only six of his paintings. The museums saving grace is the house in which it is hosted. Originally called the Casa Melik, it was built around 1750 by the rich Armenian Hagi Kevork Nazaretoglu.Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5.00 lei, students and children 2.50 lei.
TravelMaker Str. Elena Vacarescu 9, bl. XXI-2, tel. (+4)
Cismigiu Gardens (Grdina Cismigiu) B-5, Between
B-dul Regina Elisabeta, Calea Victoriei, Str. Stirbei Vod and B-dul Schitu Mgureanu, MUniversitate. A little shabbier and generally less well-kept than Bucharests other parks, Cismigiu is nevertheless the most central of the citys public gardens and worth a stroll. Highlights include the Roman Garden, laid out in the style of ancient Rome, and including busts of Romanias most famous writers, and Ion Jaleas French Memorial in Carrara marble which commemorates those French troops killed on Romanian territory during World War I. Cismigiu has a couple of cafes, refreshment kiosks and terraces, as well as some good, large childrens playgrounds. You can skate on the lake in winter.
Tineretului Park (Parcul Copiilor, Parcul Vacaresti)
Herastrau Park B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, MAviatorilor.
Theodor Pallady Museum (Casa Melik) D-5, Str.
Anyone who still thinks that Bucharest is a city of concrete and cement has clearly never been to the citys lung, the incomparable Herastrau Park. Quite simply, this glorious park, spread over 187 hectares around Herastrau lake is one of the jewels in Bucharests crown, which might explain why half of the
Pantelimon Art Tower

Pantelimon Art Tower (Make a Point) Sos.
Morarilor 1, tel. (+4) 0723 75 32 00, www.makeapoint. ro/point/TurnulDeArta.html. One of the most original projects to be seen in this city for many a year, the transformation of an old industrial water tower into a Bucharest landmark is now complete. The work of Make a Point, an organisation committed to bringing art closer to people and to promoting the Pantelimon area of Bucharest just as it is (warts and all), the Pantelimon Art Tower first came to public attention last year, when Make a Point held a competition to choose a mural to place at the top. The winning entry was a design by the Lebanese artist Georges Daniel, and was unveiled on New Years Eve 2012. The mural, however, was only the beginning of Make a Points plans for the 37-metre high water tower (a part of the Postavaria textile plant). With help from ING bank a rather impressive exterior staircase has now been added, allowing visitors to climb up to a viewing deck from where you can admire the Pantelimon neighbourhood, as well as get a closer look at Daniels mural. Built in the 1960s the water tower is still functional, and with the opening of the staircase now serves three functions. Make a Point (whose HQ is in a building next to the tower) now make use of the interior for exhibitions and installations: windows have been added and as you make your way up the exterior staircase, you can look inside and see the work on display (which is often hung from the rafters). The real joy of the tower however is the perspective of Bucharest you get from the viewing platform. For what you see from up here is far more representative of this city than what you will see from any of the tall buildings closer to the city centre. The blocks, the factories, the traffic: these are what an eastern European city like Bucharest is all about. Blocks in which people sleep, before travelling on the busy roads to their places of work in the factories. It has been argued by one of the founders of Make a Point, Madalina Rosca, that to properly understand - and even begin to like - Bucharest we should start by exploring the citys margins, for they are as an important part of the citys urban and cultural heritage as the more postcard-friendly centre. We are inclined to agree: indeed, as any regular readers will know we have recently begun to feature parts of Bucharest other city guides never reach: Titan, Bucurestii Noi (see inyourpocket.com/lvb for these features if you missed them in print). To us, Bucharest means the whole city, not just the more (in)famous bits in the middle. In Make a Point, we are happy to have found an organisation that shares this vision. So we wholeheartedly recommend a trip to the Pantelimon Art Tower. To get there, take bus No. 104 from Piata Unirii. Its a long ride, which takes in some of the less picturesque parts of Bucharest: if you have been paying attention, however, you will realise thats kind of the point... Q The tower is open on request. Call (+4) 0723 753 200 to arrange a visit (English spoken). Admission free.
13 Septembrie 1, entrance E4 (Palatul Parlamentului), MIzvor, tel. (+4) 021 318 91 37, www.mnac.ro. Making excellent use of the wide open spaces of the Parliament Palace, this vast gallery displays the work of Romanias finest contemporary artists. There are also works on display by international artists, and regular topical exhibitions. We think its one of the highlights of the citys cultural scene and a visit here has the added bonus of getting you into the Casa Poporului without taking the guided tour. The museum even has a great cafe, and if the weather is good enough its terrace offers fantastic views of the city. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 10 lei. Free entrance for children.
Bucharests Parks
Carol Park (Parcul Carol I/Parcul Libertii) C-7, Calea Serban Vod, MEroii Revolutiei. This large park was created for the Romania in the World exhibition which was held here in 1906. (The Technical Museum, to the left of the main entrance, is housed in one of the original exhibition pavilions). Designed by the French landscape artist Eduard Redont, the park is today dominated by the massive Monument to the Heroes of the Struggle for Freedom and Socialism (it stands 48 metres high) built in 1963 and which until 1990 housed the remains of communist leaders Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej and Petre Groza. It is today home to the tomb of Romanias unknown soldier. The open-air Arenele Romane in the west of the park, next to the observatory of Bucharest Universitys Astronomy Department is a popular if rather rundown venue for concerts. Close by is the gorgeous Cutitul de Argint Church, built in 1796 and famous for its many exterior icons. On the other side of the park it is worth looking out for the medieval-looking Tepes Castle (which in fact dates from 1906) now used as offices by the Romanian Armys veterans association. bucharest.inyourpocket.com
336 93 90. Often unfairly derided as an outdated (if amusingly so) museum of technology, it should be remembered that the machines, turbines, inventions and gadgets on display here are not meant to be cutting edge. At least not in this day and age. They were all, however, cutting edge when they first appeared, with some of the older steam engines dating back to the beginning of the 19th century. The museum is housed in something of a cherished relic itself: the last remaining pavilion (of many)
National Technical Museum (Muzeul Tehnic Dimitrie Leonida) C-7, Str. Gen. Candiano Popescu 2, tel. (+4) 021
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Opera Novotel Grand Continental
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Maje
Capitol
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stic
Casa
Caps
Cismigiu
Z Boutique
Museum of Bucharest
Central Doamnei
K&K Elisabeta Coltea Church & Hospital
Russian Church
Rembrandt
Mihai Voda
History Museum
Stavropoleos Tania Church Sf. Dumitru Old Court Palace & Church
Baratiei
Cocor
Europa Royale
Domnita Balasa
Old Town - which most locals call Centru Vechi (Old Centre) - is a little pocket of 19th and early 20th century Bucharest which has survived both the bombing of World War II and the bulldozers of Romanias communist planners. It is described by Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta and Piata Universitatii to the north, Bulevardul IC Bratianu to the east, the river to the south and Calea Victoriei to the west. Not more than one kilometre square, the area is nevertheless ground zero for entertainment and nightlife in Bucharest, with more restaurants, pubs and clubs than any other district in the city.
vehicles strictly limited. There is an underground car park at Piata Universitatii, accessed via Strada Doamnei. Taxis will usually drop you off at what is known as La Bariera (at the bottom end of Strada Selari) or at the National Bank. When leaving the Old Town always be careful to take an honest taxi: see page 10 for more on taxis in Bucharest.
Old Town Walk
Getting there
You can walk to the Old Town from most parts of the city centre. Two metro stations serve the area: Piata Universitatii to the north and Piata Unirii to the south. Note that most of the Old Towns streets are pedestrianised, with access for
Begin your exploration of Old Town at the four statues in Piata Universitatii, before heading to the Russian Church (officially called the St. Nicholas Students Church). From here, its worth popping along to the Museum of Bucharest in the Sutu Palace before doubling back along Strada Ion Ghica until you get to the National Bank, on the other side of which is the majestic Pasajul Macca-Villacrosse, and Strada Lipscani: the street whose name is often used to
describe the whole Old Town area. Then make sure you head along Strada Stavropoleos to see its architectural gems: the church which shares its name and the Caru cu Bere pub and restaurant. Head out on to Calea Victoriei to take a look at the Zlatari Church, National History Museum and CEC building before coming back into the Old Town via Strada Franceza and the Sf. Dumitru Church. At the far end, in Piata Sf Anton, is the Old Court Palace and Church: the very raison detre of the entire Old Town area. The Hanul Manuc is opposite. For more details, see the Old Town Sights listings from page 86.
Old Town Cafes

Atelier Cafe C-6, Str. Selari 7, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 318 28 54, www.ateliercafe.ro. Cafe and gallery, where you can enjoy an artistic coffee while browsing some fine contemporary Romanian art from the likes of Ion Silisteanu, Sorin Ilfoveanu and Mihai Cismaru. QOpen 10:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. P Bruno Wine & Coffee Shop C-6, Str. Covaci 3, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 317 17 41/(+4) 0757 55 72 91, www.brunowine.ro. So much more than wine and coffee on offer here you will be forgiven for thinking you have the wrong place! This is a bistro really, a genuine French style place, where good wine by the glass is available next to a decent spread of simple food, with a regularly changing menu. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. PBSW Cafe Manuc C-6, Str. Franceza 62, MP-ta Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0769 07 58 44/(+4) 021 313 14 11, www.hanulluimanuc.ro. Magnificent. Hanul lui Manuc is one of the best places in the city to sit and enjoy either coffee - and there is a huge range - or cocktails (both with and without alcohol). They also serve a fantastic jug of lemonade, loaded with honey. Sit outside (when the weather allows) in the courtyard of this amazing building - a 19th century inn which in many ways has remained unchanged for over a century - and remember that this place itself is a living piece of the citys history. Also serves very good Romanian food (see the review for Manuc Bistro in the Romanian restaurants section) as well as decent Lebanese at Levantin. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PBSW
Old Town Shops

tate, tel. (+4) 0722 32 25 40/(+4) 0723 65 55 84, www.souvenir-shop.com.ro. Everything you would want from a decent souvenir shop - with both Romania and Bucharest branded gifts available - and more besides. We came across the best Dracula T-Shirts weve seen so far here, complete with the slogan: Send more tourists, the last ones tasted great. We bought two. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Unirii, tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18, (+4) 021 310 43 89, www.thomas-antiques.ro. By common consent the best antique shop in the city. Stocks everything from furniture and paintings to clocks and decorations, with new pieces being added all the time. Upstairs you can even drink coffee, beer or cocktails in the bar: yep, sit and drink coffee on an antique chair and picture yourself doing the same at home. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PW
Souvenir Shop C-5, Str. Smardan 13, MUniversi-
Thomas Antiques C-6, Str. Covaci 19, MPiata
French Bakery C-6, Str. Smardan 13, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 316 10 27, fbsmardan@gmail.com, www. frenchbakery.ro. Bucharests smartest chain of bakeries comes to Old Town, complete with its fine selection of sand-
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wiches, delicious tarts and cakes, great coffee and a super terrace - at the right time of year of course - outside on the sexiest part of Old Town. Could be just about the best place in Bucharest for coffee, regardless of the time of day. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00. PBSW (+4) 021 313 97 40, www.giocafe.ro. Something of a Bucharest legend now, this is a perennially popular cafe that hosts business types in the mornings, who come here to talk big numbers over coffee and pastries, giving way as the day moves on to a stylish, hip clientele that comes for the good light meals - pasta, soups and the like - and a cracking list of cocktails. There is another big, vibrant Gio Cafe on P-ta Alba Iulia. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. Also at (E-6) B-dul Burebista 2, tel. (+4) 0730 03 07 64, Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PBSW 316 16 82, www.godotcafeteatru.ro. Cafe, bistro and theatre on Strada Blanari in the Old Town. There are performances every day (with matinees at weekends) of all sorts of plays, from Shakespeare to Neil Simon and contemporary Romanian productions, and feature plenty of top local acting talent. Even actors used to bigger stages make a habit of performing here in the uniquely intimate auditorium. Theres some good simple food too, such as pasta, salads, omelettes: that kind of thing. A highly recommendable experience. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. Box office open daily 12:00-19:00. PW
Gio Cafe C-5, Str. Toma Caragiu 3, MUniversitate, tel.
day: morning coffee or breakfast sat in front of one of the long windows, a business lunch at one of the wooden tables, a meal and a late night at the bar. The food is good - simple and very reasonably priced - and this Dutch owned, friendly cafe is a winner: you will go back more than once. There is also a specialist wine bar downstairs, meeting and function rooms upstairs, and they now do a great brunch, on Saturday and Sunday from 10:00-16:00. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Non-smoking lounge open 17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 -24:00. PSW
Godot Cafe Teatru C-6, Str. Blanari 14, tel. (+4) 021
Klein Cafe C-6, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Good cafe situated on the mezzanine floor of the Rembrandt hotel; it is the only non-smoking cafe in the Old Town we believe. They serve a great continental breakfast until 10am, with a vast selection of croissants, muffins, Dutch cheeses, meats, yoghurts, cereals and freshly squeezed orange juice, while throughout the rest of the day fresh, warm waffles are served with a choice of toppings. Good hot chocolate, and a wide range of exotic teas. Nice. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PGSW Les Bourgeois C-6, Str. Smardan 20, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 310 60 52/(+4) 0720 13 29 94, www. lesbourgeois.ro. A veritable Strada Smardan legend of a venue, whose longevity is a credit to its management who keep rethinking and reinventing the menu and making sure there is always good reason to come and eat, drink or just have one of over 30 (we counted) coffees here. Foodwise, there is plenty to choose from: so much in fact that making individual recommendations is pointless. Everyone will find something they like. Top desserts, too. Get in. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PSW
lacrosse), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 29 69, www.valea-regilor.ro. Thick Turkish coffee served in one of Calea Victorieis grand old passages. Alongside the coffee and cakes - sweet and sickly but irresistible - you can also get your hands on a Nargile, those Turkish water pipes that offer an allegedly much healthier way to smoke tobacco. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. NBSW
inspired, offering fair Fish & Chips, Shepherds Pie and jacket spuds amongst much else. They also have Newcastle Brown and Strongbow on offer, but neither on tap. A Union Jack above the bar reminds you of the British connection. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 04:00. PESW
Food & Drink

Embassy Hanul cu Tei C-6, Str. Lipscani 63-65,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 03, www.embassyhanulcutei.ro. Making very good use of the courtyard of Hanul cu Tei, always one of our favourite parts of Lipscani, Embassy is a terrace (in summer) and indoor lounge which serves food and drink to an older, wiser and simply nicer crowd than many other places we could mention in Old Town. Good bistro food, decent cocktails and reasonable prices. For those in the know, this is the sister establishment of the original Embassy on Piata Lahovari. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Also at (C-4) P-ta Lahovari 8, Open 11:30-03:00. PSW
Fine Dining
Mulanruj Dining Theatre & Club C-6, Str. Selari
9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 85, rezervari@ bordellos.ro, www.bordellos.ro. Upstairs at Bordellos is the Mulanruj Dining Theatre, a dinner and events venue where there is regular cabaret, stand-up comedy, live music and theme parties and such like. There is a wide range of dining options, and the food - as you would expect from the people who run Bordellos - is very good. Details about coming events from Bordellos or the venues Facebook page. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00. PEW
Grand Cafe Van Gogh C-6, Str. Smardan 9, MUniversi-
tate, tel. (+4) 031 107 63 71, www.vangogh.ro. Amazing how quickly this place became the default Bucharest meet you there venue. Its genius is that its ideal at every time of
French
Bon C-6, Str. Smardan 33, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 367 21 98/(+4) 0721 37 56 22, www.bonrestaurant.ro. Fabulous food in a wonderful setting, created using antique doors and window frames, the work of the designer du jour in this part of the world, who also came up with the concept for Energiea, Atelier Mecanic, Biutiful and La Bonne Bouche (to which it bears a passing resemblance). The food is worthy of the surroundings: the onion soup with Gruyere is amazing, the New Zealand lamb chops tender, and the mussels fresh. Prices are reasonable given the quality, although if you hit the oysters and champagne of course the bill will be high! QOpen 12:30 - 24:00. Closed Mon. PSW Chocolat C-5, Calea Victoriei 12A, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 03 41 75, www.chocolat.com.ro. Hard to pin this place down. Is it a cafe serving chocolate, or a chocolate shop serving a little coffee? In fact, it is neither. It is a brilliant restaurant serving delicious, well priced light meals (soups, pasta, salad) of a French and Italian bent. There is chocolate December 2013 - January 2014
Valea Regilor B-4, Calea Victoriei 16-20 (Pasajul Vil-
Old Town Restaurants: British
The Barrel British Restaurant C-6, Str. Smardan 27,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0726 41 26 46, office@thebarrel. ro, www.thebarrel.ro. Pub serving food, or restaurant serving drinks? We will go for the former. This good Smardan venue has far more the feel of a pub than anything else, but there is plenty of food on offer. The menu is certainly British
The Artist Restaurant C-6, Str. Nicolae Tonitza 13, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0728 31 88 71, www.theartist. ro. Food as art: a first for Bucharest and a first for Romania. The work of a young Dutch chef, this amazing restaurant is set to be a massive hit with the citys foodies, longing for something a bit different. The menu changes with the seasons, and the grilled scallops with roasted cauliflower is probably our pick of the current menu, alongside the Norwegian cod fillet with chorizo and sweet peas. The restaurant offers a tasting menu for those who want to try all the main courses currently being served. In keeping with the food the restaurant itself is contemporary and upmarket, a mix of the bright and the simple, chic without ever going over the top. Prices reflect the amazing quality. Closed December 23 - January 2. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. PW bucharest.inyourpocket.com
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C-6, Str. Franceza 15, tel. (+4) 0722 25 93 60, www. maccheroni.ro. Roman cuisine served in superb surroundings in the Old Town. The menu is big on seafood and fish, alongside a decent selection of grilled meat and vegetables. Theres superb antipasti - everything is made with original produce shipped in from Rome - and the pasta is freshly made here. Good wine list too and prices are OK. QOpen 12:00 - 2:00. PSW Unirii, tel. (+4) 0733 11 04 64, www.trattoriabuongiorno.ro. We have always loved T rattoria Buongiorno, and have quickly become big fans of its most recent location in the Old Town. Decent Italian food (there is a small but good selection of fish dishes which are well worth looking out for). and one of the biggest and busiest terraces in Bucharest (at the right time of year) make it a seriously good eat and watch the world go by type place. (And at weekends, it can feel like the whole city is going by). QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Also at (B-2) Str. Herstru 2; (B-4) B-dul Lascar Cartagiu 56; Baneasa Shopping Center, 1st floor. PBSW
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Maccheroni
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Trattoria Buongiorno C-6, Str. Franceza 52, MPiata
of course - loads of it - as well as more kinds of gourmet bread than we could possibly list. Find it next to Caru cu Bere. QOpen 08:30 - 23:30. Also at (B-3) Str. Radu Beller 13, tel. (+4) 021 230 23 83, Afi Palace Cotroceni, tel. (+4) 0727 84 68 02 and Baneasa Shoping City, tel. (+4) 0730 60 88 88 PSW Unirii, tel. (+4) 0731 24 78 76, www.labonnebouche.ro. Does what it does - simple French bistro food - better than anywhere else in the city. Try the sublime onion soup, calves liver with sage and garlic mash and the lemon meringue pie. Look for the chefs specials too. An open kitchen is always a good sign, and we love the variety of reading material in the toilets. Just a brilliantly simple place. Note that they accept Amex cards: not everywhere does in Bucharest. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. PESW
the latest premiere, Bellini has a great location and - according to just about anybody you ask - makes the best pizza in Bucharest. The non-pizza menu is merely good. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PSW
La Bonne Bouche C-6, Str. Franceza 30, MPiata
Bel Mondo C-6, Str. Covaci 6, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0725 96 66 36, www.restaurantbelmondo.ro. A good Italian restaurant, one of the better ones in the Old Town, which offers decent food - we recommend the fresh tomato soup with mozarella - at prices that are more than reasonable. The pizzas are excellent (and huge) and the space itself is big, open, light and blessed with sensationally high ceilings. Easily the best occupant of the old Amsterdam Cafe location since Amsterdam itself.Q Open 12:00 24:00. PSW Coco Bongo C-6, Str. Covaci 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0754 02 04 34, www.coco-bongo.ro. Love the name, love the attitude. Looks more like a pub from outside, and in fact it is both pub and restaurant, the kind of place you can eat very well but nobody minds if you just spend all night on the sauce. The food is Italian, is good if a little pricey (some of the dishes, anyway). The pizzas are good and cheap though, and the service good, quick and friendly. Worth a look. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PESW Il Peccato C-6, Str. Franceza 30, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 310 90 13, www.ilpeccato.ro. It shouldnt take too long to find this place: it is the restaurant with a motorbike in a glass display box parked outside. Really. Inside it is a welldecorated and comfortable venue, worthy of your time, serving standard Italian food of the pizza, pasta variety, Has an excellent selection of Italian wines and is a great place to sit and enjoy a decent bottle or two. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PVSW
Vecchio 1812
C-6, Str. Covaci 16, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 031 430 95 77, www.vecchio1812.ro. We love it. Making fantastic use of a gorgeous old building on Strada Covaci, this Italian restaurant looks and feels like the kind of place you want spend all evening in. The food is superior Italian, as you would expect from one of the citys best chefs, and while prices are not cheap they certainly reflect quality. The jacket potatoes in a salt crust are one of the best (and most original) starters we have ever tasted in Bucharest. Go there. QOpen 11:00 24:30. PSW
Mediterranean
Charme C-6, Str. Smardan 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0737 50 38 90, www.charme.ro. Some of the finest food in Old Town, served in one of the most elegant and classiest locations around. Check out the nice little touches such as high quality bread and olives, the high ceilings and airy atmosphere, then order some fine, light Californian-inspired cuisine. Its a winner from start to finish. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. PBSW
Greek
Meze Taverna C-6, Str. Nicolae Tonita 6, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 021 539 53 53, www.mezetaverna.ro. Another excellent Greek restaurant. It even looks the part - we love the lampshades made from empty olive oil cans - while the food itself is seriously, seriously good. There is tons of seafood on the gorgeous menu (the fish soup and the prawns with tomatoes and cheese are musts), alongside what is some of the best lamb weve eaten in Bucharest. The Greek burger is a nice treat too. The chef, Georgios, is always coming up with tasty daily specials, so ask your waiter whats cooking. The house red is a drinkable bargain. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PESW
Lebanese
C-6, Str. Selari 10, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 90 52/(+4) 0786 03 77 73, www.alsaj.ro. Its the venue that brings the punters in: a big, heated, glassed-in terrace which means you can eat al fresco even while its snowing outside. The food is decent, fairly standard Lebanese fare, no worse or better than the many other Middle Eastern eateries in the area. Its the location and people-watching spot you will come for. Q Open 10:30 - 01:30. Fri, Sat, Sun open 24hrs. PBSW tel. (+4) 0769 07 58 44/(+4) 021 313 14 11, www. hanulluimanuc.ro. Good Lebanese food, upstairs at Hanul lui Manuc, the citys last surviving caravanserai. There is a huge range of dishes to choose from, and its difficult to go wrong: we ordered a load of food, and loved it all, being especially impressed by the lahme bahjeen (minced beef and lamb in pitta bread), the kafta kebab and the marinated lamb cutlets. Well priced too. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PBSW
Al Saj
Mexican / Tex Mex

C-6, Str. Selari 24, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0758 66 05 00, www.labonita.ro. Not the worlds greatest Tex-Mex food, but in a city which has very few Mexican restaurants worth your time, this place should be on your list. It is actually a five-level extravaganza of a venue, with food on the ground and first floors, drinks on the second and a terrace on the top. Down in the basement there is a club, complete with karaoke. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. PEBSW
La Bonita
Manuc Levantin C-6, Str. Franceza 62, MPiata Unirii,
Hungarian
021 317 10 87, www.stgeorge.ro. This has long been one of our favourite restaurants, a place that had the vision to open up a good year or two before Old Town became fashionable. The food is excellent, authentic Hungarian cuisine, featuring a wealth great dishes - try the mutton stew with dumplings - and a wine list that offers the very best Hungarys vineyards have to offer. Cracking open a bottle of T okaji Aszu is the perfect way to end an evening here. Live music is provided by a happy, table wandering troupe every night. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. PESW
St. George C-6, Str. Francez 44, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
Steak
Red Angus Steakhouse C-6, Str. Franceza 56, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0756 60 00 00, www.redangus.ro. Does exactly what the name suggests: serves great steaks to customers who like their meat cooked to order. The steaks come from all over the world, from the US to New Zealand, and there is more than just classic steaks (like the Rib-Eye): there are great baby back ribs too, a magnificent burger, and the desserts - if you still have room after a big meaty feast - are well worth trying, not least the lemon merengue pie. And they have a childrens menu. Admirable. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PVESW December 2013 - January 2014
Sindbad C-6, Str. Lipscani 19, MUniversitate, tel.

(+4) 021 317 77 88, www.restaurantsindbad.ro. New Lebanese restaurant in Old Town serving what might just be the best lentil soup in Bucharest. Fabulous fresh bread too (made on site) and a decent range of mutton dishes as main courses. Theres both an exterior (at the right time of year) and interior terrace, and the decor is vaguely Middle Eastern without over-doing it. We liked the comfy chairs. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PVSW
Italian
Bellini C-5, Str. Ion Ghica 2, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0721 76 55 55, www.restaurant-bellini.ro. Packed out with the pre-cinema crowd heading over to Cinema Pro for
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Swiss
Mica Elvetie St. Moritz Str. Franceza 60, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 224 50 17, www.micaelvetie.ro. In a superb new setting in a lovingly renovated building on the edge of Old Town the Bucharest cooking legend Jakob Hausmann is still delivering the goods more than a decade after opening his first restaurant. The menu changes regularly, with a wide variety of daily specials, all based around the seasons freshly available ingredients. If you are a foodie who cares about subtle, simple flavours you are going to love this place. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PBW
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Romanian Restaurants in Old Town
Caru cu Bere C-6, Str. Stavropoleos 5, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 60/(+4) 0726 28 23 73, www.carucubere.ro. Should probably be the first stop on the food and drink list of any visitor to Bucharest. Wonderful interiors - painted ceilings, ornate woodwork - make the place an attraction in itself, but do not leave without trying some food. The breakfast is worth getting up early for, the sarmale with mamaliga terrific, and the baked apple a simple, tasty treat. They even serve their own rather good beer. The service is usually good (now: it never used to be; back in the 1980s and 1990s it was infamously bad) and there is a terrace in summer. We should also mention the touristy but nevertheless enjoyable folklore show which takes place most evenings.Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PESW
0729 62 62 62, www.citygrill.ro. They call these places your dining room in the city, and given the homely food and cheap prices (the lunchtime deals are just about unbeatable) they might just be right. Dont expect haute cuisine, but do expect big portions of simple Romanian food. We like the carnati de plescoi, tasty smoked sausages made with mutton and pork. Theres a good selection of local beers to choose from too. Recently renovated, the place itself looks better than ever too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Also at (B-2) B-dul Primaverii 3, tel. (+4) 021 233 98 18 and many other locations. PVEBSW
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Divan C-6, Str. Franceza 46-48, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 312 30 34, www.thedivan.ro. From the Middle Eastern atmosphere and superb decor to the great service, Divan is a lesson in creating a good restaurant. The well-priced food is good value Turkish/Middle Eastern, and its very good indeed. They will even cook you a whole lamb if you give them 24 hours notice. We opted for the less Sultan-like beef and lamb kebabs. Very good they were too. After your meal you can enjoy a smoke on a hookah pipe: theres a huge range of flavours to choose from. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Also at (C-2) Calea Floreasca 111-113. PBSW
City Grill C-6, Str. Lipscani 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
Old Town Bars

Absintherie Sixtina C-6, Str. Covaci 6, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 310 35 66. Late-night bar (well, thats when we think its at its best) upstairs at Covaci 6. Serves a huge range of beers (its run by the same people as 100 Beers around the corner) and exotic drinks, including absinthe, which comes complete with a natty water dispenser. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PW
0727 57 13 71, www.berariahanulcutei.ro. With its big long bar, lively atmosphere and regular crowd of beer drinkers out for a good time and not to pose, it would be easy to nominate this place as the best pub in the Old Town. Add in a brilliant range of sausages (weisswurst, bratwurst, Polish bangers and local mici) and it starts to get very difficult not to call this the best pub in Old Town. And when we tell you there is live music from a resident band at the weekends you will know you need to go there immediately. QOpen 10:00 02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 05:00. PESW
Beraria Hanul Cu Tei C-6, Str. Lipscani 63-65, tel. (+4)
C-6, Str. Lipscani 38, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 61 62 98. The name means Bicycle, and it will not take you long to work out why: the place is by and large furnished and decorated with parts of old bicycles. On the second floor of a Lipscani house the place boasts a good long bar, plenty of stools (some of which incorporate old bike seats) and a couple of leather sofas for those who want something a bit more comfortable. Coffee by day and cocktails by night is the order of things, and at the weekend the place has a DJ and quite frankly rocks. Tour de France? Tour de force. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. PW
Bicicleta
Crama Domneasca C-6, Str. Selari 13-15, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0733 15 98 46, www.cramadomneasca. com. Right in the heart of Bucharests historic centre, this is Romanian food of indeed historic proportions. You can expect right royal portions of all your Romanian favourites, from spare ribs and mutton to tender pork steaks. The home baked bread is always served warm (if it is not, send it back) and the wine flows copiously as evenings get longer and longer. Its the kind of place where you will be discretely but contentedly loosening your belt before the night is done. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PVESW Lacrimi si Sfinti C-6, Str. Sepcari 16, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0372 77 39 99, www.lacrimisisfinti.com. Romanian poet, revolutionary and raconteur Mircea Dinescus latest culinary adventure is this classy place in the Old Town. As much a showcase for the (very good) wines Dinescu produces on his country estate as anything else, the food is good: a selection of traditional Romanian dishes with a big focus on game. The prices are decent enough and though a little spartanly furnished and decorated the ambience is good: you want to stay way after you have finished your meal. QOpen 12:30 - 02:00, Mon 18:00 - 02:00. PESW Manuc Bistro C-6, Str. Franceza 62, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 313 14 11, www.hanulluimanuc.ro. Bucharests oldest inn (and one of only two surviving 19th century caravanserai in Europe - the other is in Albania). Nowhere else in the city can rival the setting, and fortunately the food is more than a match for the surroundings. Sit in the gorgeous courtyard (when the weather allows, of course) and enjoy a beer or good Romanian food: dont miss the mici, the local speciality, but there is much more besides. We rather liked the baked duck served with stewed cabbage, and the mixed grill for two people is good value. The orange and chocolate cake is the pick of the desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PEBSW bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Beraria Kovaci C-6, Str. Covaci 3, MPiata Unirii, tel.
Corks Cozy Bar Str. Bacani 1, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 021 312 05 52/(+4) 0722 80 01 86, www.berariakovaci.ro. Beer (more than 40 kinds), very good pizza and fair bit else besides in a rather nice setting on Strada Covaci, which, with the recent opening of a few other decent places is quickly becoming the new Lipscani street-to-be. Beraria Kovaci is a sweet little place, decked out with wood and boasting perhaps the comfiest chairs of any pub in the city. Drinks are well priced and service comes with a smile. An excellent place for a livener or two. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00. PNW
(+4) 021 311 22 65, hello@corks.ro, www.corks.ro. Nice little wine bar tucked away on an Old Town side street which quickly won itself a handy following of admirers and regulars. A look at the wine list will be enough to tell you why, offering as it does a vast range of wines from across the world. Almost all of them are available by the glass. The idea behind this place was to create a wine bar where anyone - no matter how little they know about wine - would feel welcome, comfortable and not be intimidated. In that regard, its a total success. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. PSW
021 310 64 69, www.golfplanet.ro. Something very different and original comes to Old Town. Its an 18-hole crazy-golf course, with added cafe, cocktail bar and comfy sofas. And it is all in the dark. Kind of: the lights are all fluorescent and futuristic. Brilliant for families during the day, at night grab a group of mates and get down here for a game of golf and a few beers. (We should add that you are under no compulsion to play golf: you are welcome to watch everybody else try). It really is the definitive answer to the perennial What shall we do tonight? question. Unique. Find it under the Europa Royale Hotel. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. PW
Golf Planet C-6, Str. Halelor 5, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
Interbelic C-6, Str. Selari 1, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 10 01 93, www.interbelic.ro. A cosy little speakeasy in a well-hidden location (find it in the alleyway which links Str. Blanari to Str. Lipscani) and the perfect place to conduct all sorts of secret business, affairs and anything else that springs to mind. Drinks and coffees are reasonably priced, the staff are friendly and its worth checking out: if only to show off to someone just how well you know Bucharest and its backstreets. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. PNW Klein Bar & Bistro C-6, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Bar and bistro inside the Rembrandt hotel. Its a great place to enjoy a drink with friends, and the location at the edge of Bucharests newly-formed pedestrian zone makes it a favourite for those looking for something just a little more restful. Good bistro food too, and like the hotel itself, everything comes at very reasonable prices. Even acts as an ad hoc Tourist Info Centre. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PGW
For even more Bucharest restaurants see pages 40-57

MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 93 79 72. You will like this place. A nice long bar, proper tall bar stools and even leather armchairs for those who want to chill. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner from one of the best bar menus in Bucharest: you will find something on it you fancy. There must be 100 lamps hanging down from the ceiling: all different. Startlingly brilliant place, refreshingly free of brewery branding too: always a bonus these days. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PSW
Entourage Centrul Vechi C-6, Str. Eugen Carada 5-7,
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Laboratorul de Cocktailuri C-6, Str. Stavropoleos 8,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 52 80 40. A cocktail bar (there is beer too, of course, on tap, as well as hundreds of teas) where everything has been thought out to the minutest detail. The name means Cocktail Factory, so you get your Tom Collins or Mojito or whatever takes your fancy in a conical flask, while the bar itself looks like an old pharmacy. Unusually, they have even invested in decent bar stools. Trendy without overdoing it. Commendable. QOpen 17:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PNW
and industrial bits and bobs), but without the hipster attitude. Add in the fact that it is a bit bigger than many Old Town bars and that late on a Friday you stand a chance of getting in the door and you have a top place. It also has lots of big windows, the drinks are reasonably well priced (this is Old Town) and the music is clubby without over- (or under-) doing it. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:30. PBW
Rehab Bar C-6, Str. Gabroveni 19, MPiata Unirii, tel.
C-6, Str. Covaci 8, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 310 78 11, www.cafebaropendoor.ro. Boasting one of the best selections of exotic coffees in the city (try the After Dinner Mint), Open Door is something a bit different for the Old Town area. Best place to sit is upstairs, and though it can get awfully smoky when it is busy, what venue in Bucharest doesnt? QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PW
Open Door
(+4) 0726 12 25 52. An Old Town bar has to be a bit different these days to grab our attention: Rehab is just that. Its the kind of place you see anywhere and everywhere, except in Bucharest. Until now. With cushions on wooden steps making impromptu seats and a sofa at the window, its just very different and highly welcome. The drinks menu is done in the style of a medical journal, and offers the usual mix of coffee, tea, cocktails and smoothies. For added quirkiness you get the bill in a sample bottle. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 04:00. PW
Orient Express Bar Bistro C-6, Str. Smardan 37,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0725 92 75 07, www.orientexpressbarbistro.ro. Pub and bistro of not enormous proportions on Smardan. Serves a decent pint, good coffee and mixes its cocktails well, but what most impressed us were the big salads. The photos of the eponymous train (and a map of its original route) on the walls kept son of In Your Pocket happy for an hour. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. PSW
Revenge C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0722 33 12 26, www.revenge.ro. It is the music that we like best about this pub and club in the heart of the Lipscani area. A mix of everything from the sublime to the ridiculous, it hardly matters that you might not like whats playing: you will not have to wait long to hear an old favourite. Add in a casually-dressed, non-fitze crowd and you have a winner. QOpen 17:00 - 07:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 09:00. PNW Silk Sky Bar C-5, Str. Ion Nistor 4 (Z Boutique Hotel),
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 55 55 05. One of Bucharests genuine hidden gems. On the top floor of the itself rather discrete Z Boutique Hotel you are unlikely to see this place
in passing: you need to know about it in advance. You can therefore really impress people with your inside knowledge of Bucharest by bringing them here. Expect drinks, good food, an in-the-know crowd and fine views over Piata Universitatii. QOpen 10:00 - 2:00.
ing tea on an antique chair you might end up taking home. Regular events too, from string quartets to book launches and the like. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PW
Papiota C-6, Str. Lipscani 43, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 367 27 77, www.papiota.ro. Papiota is one of our favourite Bucharest bars. It is at first glance a lot like a certain other bar we will not name (packed with odd chairs, tables
The Bazaar C-6, Str. Covaci 10, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0721 99 99 99, www.thebazaar.ro. Club Tropicana. Its not every day you see a palm tree or two in a Bucharest bar, neither are there too many places in Old Town as big as this: theres upstairs (complete with comfy armchairs), downstairs, and on warmer evenings everyone spills out on to the street outside. On one of Old Towns less-crowded streets this is a good alternative to the madness elsewhere. Music is loungesque, supplied by a DJ who knows his onions. Fun and sunshine. QOpen 10:00 - 02:30, Fri 10:00 - 04:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 04:30. PW The Drunken Lords C-6, Intr. Selari 3-5, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0736 23 88 15, www.thedrunkenlords.ro. Its alright this place. We were not convinced on our first visit, but given that it had just opened thats hardly a surprise. On our second visit however we found a good, lively pub playing decent music and offering a vibe a little more upmarket than most other places in the Old Town (especially those in and around this little alleyway). Hosts live music, sports and regular cultural events. Not easy to find, its worth seeking out. QOpen 10:00 - 5:00. PESW
Old Town Pubs

Arcade Cafe C-6, Str. Smardan 30, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0727 25 70 22, (+4) 0722 77 76 74/(+4) 021 314 50 66, www.arcadecafe.ro. One more reason to hail Strada Smardan as the new Messiah of nightlife destinations. This little place is a cool mix of cafe, DJ bar and deadly serious club, though the music is always at the right volume and never stifles conversation. Basically there are two parts to this place: upstairs is the cafe (serving hot milk: our kids liked it!) and downstairs is the club. The cafe is open from (around) 10am. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. PESW 0767 50 80 80. A Lipscani bar that we liked the moment we first walked in. The whole place is brightly tiled and done in the style of an old barbers shop (as the name might suggest). We love the red lamps hanging down over the (long) bar, designed to look like old hair dryers. Good music, usually provided by a DJ, and well priced drinks. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. PW
Caruta cu Paiate
Caruta cu Paiate C-5, In front of the National Theatre,
MUniversitate. Chances are youve seen this statue, admired it, but then walked on having failed to grasp what it actually is, or what it signifies. Centrally located in front of Romanias National Theatre (which is currently being rebuilt), not 20 yards from the Bucharest InterContinental Hotel, the bronze Caruta cu paiate was created by sculptor Ioan Bolborea in honour of Romanias favourite playwright, Ion Luca Caragiale. It was unveiled in December 2010. The statue features characters from Caragiales plays (Domnul Goe, Nae Catavencu, T ache Farfuridi, and so on) and was unveiled in December 2010. Next to the Caruta cu paiate is a seated bronze of Nenea Iancu - Caragiale himself.
Barbero C-6, Str. Lipscani 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
Thomas Antiques Bar C-6, Str. Covaci 19, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18, www.thomas-antiques. ro. Above the Thomas Antiques shop in Old Town is a cafe, tea house and bar where you can enjoy a hot white chocolate (or something stronger) while discussing the merits of the goods youve been admiring. Theres nothing quite like takbucharest.inyourpocket.com bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Beer OClock C-6, Pasajul Vilacrosse, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0767 23 33 35, www.beeroclock.ro. This little pub in Pasajul Villacrosse has probably the biggest selection bottled beers in the city: so it is aptly named. With brews from all over the world you could drink a different beer every night for a month and not try the same one twice. Whats more, besides the beer they also have the appropriate glass in which to serve it: great attention to details. Tiny, with only a few places to sit, its worth reserving if you want to be sure December 2013 - January 2014
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of a seat. Note: there is now a much bigger Beer OClock on Strada Gabroveni further down in Old Town. We prefer the tiny original. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00. Also at (C-6) Str. Gabroveni 4. Open 17:00 - 02:00. PVSW
OHaras C-6, Str. Franceza 13, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
Biutiful C-6, Str. Gabroveni 6-8, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0737 29 72 97, www.biutiful.ro. When you walk in, you will see where the name comes from: it is indeed biutiful, an enormous industrial-chic space with a little added glamour (check out the lights and the comfy sofas), creating a rather special atmosphere rather like an upmarket, contemporary central London bar and grill. The food is more than decent - salads, tapas and burgers - with the beef and horseradish sandwich a confirmed winner; The fish and chips wasnt bad either. A must visit for either drinks or food, preferably both. Note that they only take reservations up to 19:00, after that its first come first served. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 01:00. PSW
0724 23 95 77. One of the citys smaller, but better, Irish pubs. Expect a decent pint of Guinness, live Irish music on some evenings and a grand welcome from some fine staff: all of which make this very much the thinking mans Irish pub in Bucharest. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PENBSW
Oktoberfest C-6, Str. Selari 9 -11, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0724 33 32 33, www.oktoberfest-pub.ro. What makes this place so special is how very ordinary it is. You will find the crowd more local than foreign - never a bad thing - and ordinary out for a drink and a good time locals at that, not the fitze crowd. The owners try to make something happen every night, whether its football on the television or impromptu drinking competitions. The house Oktoberfest beer is a bargain at 4 lei a glass. Upstairs is Oktoberfest 2, which has a small terrace. The club Octopus is also inside (on the ground floor). Q Open 24hrs. PNBW
Bordellos C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0748 88 10 85, www.bordellos.ro. There is always something going on here, every night of the week. From quiz nights and live music to the burlesque every Friday night, this is a one-stop shop for great nights out. Theres Heineken, Murphys and Paulaner on tap and Sky Sports on four screens. The food is great, with some rather special tapas, including the ribs which are just about the best weve ever had in Bucharest. At the weekends, head downstairs to the Boudoir, and note that upstairs is the Mulanruj Dining Theatre, with live cabaret most nights. You cant miss this place by the way: just look for the tarts in their underwear beckoning you in. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 14:00 - 06:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PESW
Old City C-6, Str. Lipscani 45, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0729 37 77 74, www.oldcity-lipscani.ro. Good pub on Lipscani with a huge beer garden out the back. Serves very good cocktails (a sweet as you like mojito went down very well with Mrs. In Your Pocket) and some pub grub that is far better than you would assume. The burger was great: try it with the roast potatoes in fresh rosemary for something a bit different. A big screen shows football and the like. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. PBW Re:Public Brasserie C-6, Str. Selari 14, MPiata Unirii,
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Curtea Berarilor C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 021 313 75 32, www.curteaberarilor.com. Once upon a time the whole of the Curtea Sticlarilor was given over to artisans - especially glassmakers - from whence the name. Now only a few survive and no less than four bars have opened here. This one has given itself the rather cheeky name Curtea Berarilor (Brewers Courtyard), though there is no brewing done on the site. Instead make do with plenty of on-tap pints, of which the default option is Timisoreana. QOpen 13:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PBSW
tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 86, www.therepublic.ro. Re:Public is the best thing to happen to the Old Town in many a day. A big, bold venue which both looks and feels just right, its a party-central kind of place with a top selection of beer, live music downstairs in the Bierhalle and some very good bistro food. There are top German sausages for a start (including currywurst), alongside one of the tastiest pork knuckles you will eat in this city. Oxtail stew and the chocolate and Guinness mousse were the other stand-out dished we tried. Top draught beer selection too. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 14:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. PESW
La 100 de Beri C-6, Str. Covaci 8, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0784 24 60 46. The name (as you might have guessed) means 100 Beers, and thats exactly what they have here: beer, and lots of it, from all over the world. In fact, looking at the menu they have considerably more than 100 beers, and there is more besides: shorts and cocktails for those who dont fancy a beer. Nice long, English-style bar. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PBW
Sankt Petersburg Pub C-6, Str. Gabroveni 55, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 89 68/(+4) 0729 19 18 55, www.sanktpetersburgpub.ro. At the end of a well-marked passageway on Strada Gabroveni is this place, a bright, colourful bar and club that puts on something different every night of the week. Besides the long cocktail list there are also - as you would expect for a Russian-themed placed - no fewer than seven kinds of vodka, and they even serve caviar pancakes. Definitely a first in Bucharest! QOpen 12:00 04:00. PESW Sappho Pub & Garden C-6, Str. Soarelui 3, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0754 25 33 83, sappho.bar_garden@ yahoo.com. Set around a sunken courtyard just off Strada Covaci Sappho boasts a large terrace (which is great in good weather) and cavernous interior (which has various rooms, all differently themed). Hosts live music and various party nights, and besides the beer and cocktails there is food if youre hungry. QOpen 15:00 - 04:00. PEB
(+4) 021 313 03 36, www.stpatrick.ro. Big, well located Irish pub in the Old Town area: it really sets the standard for the many others in the area. Looking every inch just like a proper Irish boozer, its a real pub all right with decent pub grub, Guinness and Kilkenny on tap, and more than efficient staff who ensure you do not have to wait long for a drink. Look
Old Town Jazz

Big Mamou Club C-6, Splaiul Independentei 2B,
MPIata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0724 67 11 08/(+4) 0744 52 01 49, www.bigmamou.ro. In a city that is hardly awash with live jazz clubs, this place is now something of a legend. Though it looks less than inviting from outside, once through the door you are in a world of great music and well-priced drinks. It is everything a good jazz and blues club should be, complete with a smoky atmosphere and a vast range of live acts who regularly play here. QOpen 18:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00, Sun 19:00 - 00:00. N
St. Patrick C-6, Str. Smardan 23-25, MPiata Unirii, tel.
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out for the St. Patrick Party Room on the other side of the street: a kind of mini-St. Patrick. Quirky and cool. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PBSW The house drink is of course Finlandia vodka, available in more varieties than you ever thought possible, but there is more to this place than vodka: cocktails, wine, champagne and beer. They even have Guinness on draught. The music - usually provided by a DJ - is as contemporary and as good as the design, the crowd is a trendy one and we defy you not to enjoy yourself here. QOpen 13:30 - 05:00. PBW
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The Pub - Universitatii C-5, Regina Elisabeta 9, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 84 37 82, www.thepubro. com/club. Good food and drink in a big, lively pub right on Piata Universitatii: very much Bucharests beating heart. The food in fact is what perked our interest in the first place: we had heard about the amazing burgers and just had to come and try them. We can confirm that The Pub serves one of Bucharests best burgers. There are wings, ribs and salads too, while on the beer front there is Staropramen, Stella, Hoegaarden, Leffe and Becks on tap. We also liked the fact that you can reserve the exat table you want directly on the venues website. A Bucharest first, we think. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. Vintage Pub C-6, Str. Smardan 43, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0743 79 71 73, www.thevintagepub.ro. Another Smardan drinking den. And its not bad. Staff are incredibly hospitable, and the interior dcor is pub-ish without overdoing it. The Vintage aspect is provided by the hanging of various antiques on the walls. Cheapish drinks, salads, sandwiches and a big terrace (at the right time of year) attract a young crowd. Hosts loads of events. Q Open 09:30 - 05:30. PEBSW
Fire Club C-6, Str. Gabroveni 12, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0732 16 66 04, www.fire.ro. A much-changed venue which over the past year or so has shed its shabby-chic look and which has become a bigger, brighter and less smokey venue than ever before. Still plays mainly rock for a crowd of the young and not-so-young, and to be honest it is as good as ever. We have always liked the place and if you want to go local it is one of your better options in the Old Town. There is also now Fire Pub out the back (although the entrance is from Strada Covaci): a small yet rather good boozer with a huge and very nice covered terrace/atrium. QOpen 10:00 05:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. PBSW
0722 37 33 36, www.freddo.ro. The biggest, boldest place on Strada Smardan. Smart too: when it started raining we were about to run for cover only for the roof to be extended, keeping us all dry. Impressive. Now get there and enjoy sound cocktails, pizza and decent salads: and note you can enjoy it all at proper, big wooden tables. You might want to reserve at the weekends: this place is damn popular. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. PNBSW La Muse C-6, Str Lipscani 53, MPiata Unirii/Universitate, tel. (+4) 0734 00 02 36/(+4) 0745 02 42 17,
Freddo C-6, Str. Smardan 24, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
lamuse@lamuse.ro, www.lamuse.ro. Last time we popped in we met up with almost everyone we know in Bucharest. Thats the kind of place this is: on the surface it looks posh and flash and out-of-your-league (the lady at the entrance clutches a clipboard as though her life depends on it) but it is in fact a down-to-earth, come-as-you-are venue playing dance floor hits from across the decades to a crowd a bit older than elsewhere, which can afford the prices of the drinks. We love it. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. PBW
07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PNBW
Old Town Microbreweries

Re:Public Bierhalle C-6, Str. Selari 14, MPiata Unirii,
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tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 86, www.therepublic.ro. Downstairs at Re:Public is the Bierhalle, which besides offering decent regular live music serves what is probably the best selection of draught beer in the city. Theres an IPA, a Brown Ale and even cider on tap. With big long tables in classic beerhall style there are usually enough seats to keep punters happy, but at the weekend you will do well to reserve: it can get very busy. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 14:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. PESW
Home Delivery
Fabio Pizza A-3, Str. Barbu Vladoianu 46, tel. (+4) 021 311 71 22/(+4) 021 322 07 22, www.fabiopizza.ro. Currently our favourite home-delivery pizza company. Great prices, cheerful delivery chaps and terrific pizza (if you choose the thin and crispy base, baza subtire in Romanian). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. VN Jerrys D-6, B-dul Octavian Goga 24, tel. (+4) 021
311 21 21, www.jerryspizza.ro. Though still delivering good pizza, there is much more to Jerrys than pizza these days. Hot chicken wings, subs and salads, for a start. Friendly delivery boys in our experience: always worth an extra mark. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. Jerrys at Night Open 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 24:00-04:00, tel. (+4) 0722 33 41 41. VS
Mojo C-6, Str. Gabroveni 14, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0760 26 34 96, www.mojomusic.ro. Three level extravaganza of a venue. On the ground floor is the pub, upstairs is the most popular karaoke venue in the land, while downstairs in the cavernous cellar there is live music, and then some. In a nutshell, this place sets the standard for nights out in Old Town. The beer is a decent price, the crowd a mix of ages and nationalities and the manager is a top bloke who makes a point of being nice to his customers. When ace local bands are not playing, the resident Mojo band usually is. Also now puts on regular quiz nights and live British stand-up comedy too. Top notch. QOpen 13:00 - 05:00. PEBW The Address Club & Lounge C-6, Str. Covaci 3, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0736 35 93 59, www.the-address. ro. There are a lot of things to like about this place, not the least of which is the wide selection of live music and events they put on: no act seems to be too quirky for The Address. We also like the tall tables and bright blue bar stools, and the rather glorious tiled (original?) floor. Drinks are reasonably priced for the area and to be honest you could do a lot worse. Not bad at all. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PEW (+4) 0723 19 99 77. Smooth. Smooth people, smooth vibes and smooth cocktails. We love the (long) nights we spend in this place, not least because you never know what to expect on the music front: it could be a night of pop, a night of disco classics, a night of indie beats or a night of up-to-the-minute clubby sounds. We suggest you take a chance and delve inside. Chances are you will enjoy yourself. Q Open 22:00 -
True Social Club C-6, Splaiul Independentei (corner with Str. Selari), MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0727 48 80 87, www. trueclub.ro. On the corner of Strada Selari and Splaiul Independentei is T rue Club, an exclusively live music venue well worthy of your time (its owned and run by two legends of the Bucharest nightlife scene, who have a track record of delivering the goods). When the resident covers band or top local act isnt performing you will find karaoke, and the sheer variety of themed nights and parties usually means that there is always something here for everyone. Drinks are a decent price and there are plenty of them to choose from. QOpen , Thu, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Fri 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PEW
Old Town Clubs & Discos

0723 20 34 63, www.bastards.ro. Is that really what it is called? Yes: that is really what it is called. In a Lipscani basement, with the walls stripped back to the red brick, this is a cocktail bar and club where the mood is different every night. It could be karaoke, it could be rock night, it could be DJ Andrei Nicolescu spinning his old school electro tunes. Regardless of what is going on you will probably enjoy it. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PENB
Bastards C-6, Str. Lipscani 28, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
The Vault C-6, Str. Lipscani 29-33, MUniversitate, tel.
Club A C-6, Str. Blnari 14, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 316 16 67, contact@cluba.ro, www.cluba.ro. Selling the cheapest beer in the Old Town, this place is a legend. If you want a local, unpretentious, up-for-a-laugh studenty crowd getting down to classic songs that you wont have heard for ages, this is the one place in town you can be guaranteed to find it, every night of the week. Live music on most weekend nights, as well as all sorts of events during the week, from theme nights to theatre. QOpen 10:30 - 05:00, Fri 12:00 06:00, Sat 16:00 - 06:00, Sun 16:00 - 04:00. PEBW Finnish Cocktail & Club C-6, Str. Selari 28, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0753 57 82 09, www.finnish.ro. A little more chic and upmarket than most other places in the Old Town, Finnish is a cocktail bar and club which brings a little contemporary Scandinavian design to the Romanian capital. Bucharest In Your Pocket
Orasul Interzis D-5, Str. Silvestru 3, tel. (+4) 0733 50 07 50/(+4) 0720 99 33 33, rezervari@orasulinterzis.ro, www.orasul-interzis.ro. Home delivery arm of the excellent Chinese restaurant of same name. QOpen 12:30 - 23:00. PSW Restaurant Nan Jing B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu
2-4, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 12 85/(+4) 0726 10 34 07, comanda@lachinezesc.ro, www. nanjing.ro. Yes! The Nan Jing now does home delivery. Just head to their website for the full home delivery menu. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLVBSW
For even more Bucharest nightlife see pages 60-63

bucharest.inyourpocket.com December 2013 - January 2014
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Old Town Sights
The Bucharest Old Town area is historic for this is where Bucharest was founded. Kind of. According to legend, Bucur the Shepherd founded the city in the 1300s when he built a church somewhere on the eastern bank of the Dmbovia river: nobody is sure exactly where this church was (or even if it actually existed). What we do know is that by the first reign of Vlad epe (1459-1462) there was a palace and court (the Palatul Curtea Veche) in the area we today call Old Town, and that the city grew quickly around the palace. By the middle of the 17th century the area was Bucharest merchant district, which it to all intents and purposes remained until the end of World War II, when many of the rightful owners of the houses and businesses which lined the areas streets were arrested by the communist authorities, and their property confiscated and left to rot. The entire area - viewed as being far too bourgeous for communist tastes - was then neglected for decades, with many of the empty buildings being occupied over the years (legally or otherwise) by Gypsies. Many of these Gypsies remain today, and add real colour to the area.
The National History Museum
Hanul lui Manuc (Hanul Manuc, Manucs Inn) C-6,
Banca Nationala a Romaniei C-6, Str. Lipscani 25, MUniversitate. The National Bank (BNR) stands on the site of one of the most famous buildings in Romania: the Hanul Serban Voda, which from 1678 until 1883 was the home of various things, from a pub, to an inn to a dormitory for a nearby girls school. After two fires gutted the building however, the land was levelled and in 1883 work began on the BNR, completed to the designs of French architects Cassien Bernard and Albert Galleron in 1885. The building boasts a facade with Corinthian columns, and an enormous central banking hall. The passing of time has seen the building become rather hemmed in, but it remains a classic worthy of admiration.
Str. Franceza, MPiata Unirii. Built in 1808 the enormous, three-level Hanul lui Manuc (Manucs Inn) is one of Europes last remaining caravanserai. The interior courtyard is a spectacular sight and essential for any visitor to Bucharest, not least the grand staircase to your left as you enter from Strada Franceza. A hostelry ever since it opened the Han has seldom looked better, and is currently home to two restaurants: Manucs Bistro which serves Romanian food) and Levantin, a Lebanese eatery. There is also a cafe, and in summer the courtyard is packed.
National History Museum (Muzeul National de Istorie) C-5, Calea Victoriei 12, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 021 315 82 07, fax (+4) 021 311 33 56, pr@mnir. ro, www.mnir.ro. The beautiful, monumental and simply superb Neo-Classical building that houses Romanias National History Museum was constructed from 1894-1900 to the designs of local architect Alexandru Svulescu. It originally served as the headquarters of Pota Roman, the Romanian postal service. When the post office moved away in 1970, the History Museum moved in. The museums exhibitions are spread over 60 display rooms, although many are currently closed for renovation. The museums two most important collections, however, are very much open: the Lapidarium and the Romanian Treasury. The Lapidarium includes statues brought from a Bronze Age necropolis close to present day Cernavoda and what is probably the museums finest exhibit, a full-scale replica of Trajans Column. The Romanian Treasury includes jewellery from the time of the Geto-Dacians, as well as the current Romanian Crown Jewels, including the kings crown and an amazing selection of emeralds made for Queen Mary. The bizarre statue on the museums steps - which appeared during May 2012 - allegedly represents the emperor Trajan holding a wolf. It has not unsurprisingly been the subject of much ridicule, and is a popular object for both locals and visitors to ironically have their photo taken with. Q Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 25 lei, pensioners 15 lei, students and children 7 lei.
Old Court Palace & Church (Palatul i Biserica Curtea Veche) C-6, Str. Franceza, MPiata Unirii. The
Characters from the plays of I. L. Caragiale, painted on an electricity sub-station in Piata Sf. Anton
Old Court, first built on this site in the second part of the 15thcentury by Vlad epe, was considerably extended during the 16th century, by Mircea Ciobanul, and again a century later, this time at the hand of Constantin Brancoveanu, who added a splendid voievodal palace, decorated with marble and icons. The palace was by and large destroyed by a series of fires in the 19th century however, and subsequently neglected. Much of what remains today was uncovered during archaeological
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Late Night Food
Bun de tot Str. Franceza 52, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0733 11 04 64, www.citygrill.ro. The name means good for everything and everything is what they have here, from kebabs (which are OK) to hot dogs, burgers and the like. Find it on the corner of Selari and the river at the bottom of Old Town: its open 24 hours. Q Open 24 hrs.
OlD TOWN
89
Chicken Staff C-6, Str. Smardan 31, MPiata Unirii. KFC on the ground floor of Unirea closes at 23:00, so instead get yourself here for your late night/early morning fried chicken fix. Q Open 11:00 - 05:00.
tel. (+4) 021 315 55 40, lipscani@dristorkebap.com, www.dristorkebap.ro. Legendary chain of kebab shops, which began in Dristor but has now spread city wide, even in to Old Town. Q Open 24 hrs. Also at (C-7) B-dul Marasesti 42, Calea Vacaresti 391, B-dul Camil Ressu 1 and B-dul Timisoara 26.
Dristor Kebap C-6, Str. Franceza 17, MPiata Unirii,
St. Dumitru Church (Biserica Sf. Dumitru de Juramant) C-6, Str. Postei 2, MPiata Unirii. St. Dumitru
Gyros Thessaloniki Str. Gabroveni 2, MPiata Unirii. In our opinion, this place serves the best chicken kebab in Bucharest. Its a regular late-night haunt of ours and the queues speak for themselves. Alongside the kebabs there are also salads, lamb dishes and sweets. Cheap too: its a winner. Q Open 24hrs.
kept in Piata Romana. It moved back here to its original location in 2010. There are three other identical statues around Romania, in Cluj, Targu Mures and Timisoara.
Church dates back to the 15th century. It was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1847 and the current building dates from 1852 but it has undergone numerous renovations due to damage from earthquakes. St. Dumitru by the way is the patron saint of Bucharest.
recently, yet building work has (we hope temporarily) covered it up. It is also worth pointing out that until the 1960s trams ran along the street here: somewhat incredible given how narrow it is in places. Bratianu 2, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 68 58, fax (+4) 021 310 25 62, relatii.publice@muzeulbucurestiului.ro, www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro. Much overlooked museum, despite its location in the very centre of the city. The highlight is probably the selection of maps of Bucharest through the ages, while there is also an original log from the Podul Mogosoaia: the forerunner of Calea Victoriei, in the days when the street was paved with logs. The exhibition is well captioned in Romanian and English, and while small an enjoyable hour can be spent here. You will leave feeling as though you want more, however. The museum is housed in the elegant, Neo-Gothic uu Palace, built from 1833-4 for the wealthy merchant Costache uu. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6 lei, 3 lei children, students and pensioners. Children under seven free. Some temporary exhibitions cost extra.
Sutu Palace / Museum of Bucharest C-5, B-dul I.C.
was built in the 1880s as a private chapel for Romanias first royal couple: Note that the king and queen still have special seats on the left and right of the churchs 18th century icon kept for them should they ever return. The icon itself is said by churchgoers to have magical healing powers.
St. Nicholas Church (Biserica Sfantul Nicolae Blanari) C-6, Str. Blanari 16, MUniversitate. The church
digs that took place from 1967-72, when the palace ruins were first opened as a museum. There are fragments of the original 15th century walls, as well as remnants of the voievodal palace throne room, in which most of the relics found on the site are exhibited. Next door to the palace is the Old Court Church, the oldest in Bucharest, dating from 1545. It was enlarged in 1715 during the reign of tefan Cantacuzino, and the frescoes inside, painted by maestros Constantin Lecca and Miu Papa, were added in 1847. The churchs exterior was recently renovated, and it looks better than ever. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Stavropoleos Church (Biserica Stavropoleos) C-6,
St. Nicholas Students Church (Sfntul Nicolae Biserica Studenilor) C-5, Str. I. Ghica 9, MUniversi-
Str. Stavropoleos 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+40) 21 313 47 47, www.stavropoleos.ro. The church was built in 1724 at the insistence of a Greek monk, Ioanikie Stratonikeas. It is characterized by its beautiful stone and wood carvings, of which the finest are on the main doors. The courtyard outside (beautiful on a sunny afternoon) has a curious collection of tombstones dating from the 18th century, and you might often see skilled craftsmen working on restoring them.
tate. Built in 1905-09 with a 600,000 gold rouble donation from Tsar Alexander II, this Russian orthodox church is topped with seven typically Russian onion domes and crowned with an orthodox cross. The wooden, gold-gilded iconostasis (catapeteasm) is allegedly a copy of the altar in Arhangelsk Cathedral, in Moscows Kremlin. MUniversitate. Strada Lipscani gets its name from the large number of traders who, in the 18th century, sold wares here brought from Leipzig, which at the time was one of the largest trading posts in Europe. As Str. Lipscani was the main commercial street in the Old Town, it over time lent its name to the whole area. Ironically, its name and history aside, modern Str. Lipscani has little to recommend it, although it does have some exceptional bars, pubs and clubs, and a theatre. About two thirds of the way along Str. Lipscani is the Hanul cu Tei, a wonderful courtyard (once part of a large inn) which today houses art galleries, antique shops, second-hand book shops, gift shops, studios and portrait artists, as well as a lively terrace (in summer) and pub/restaurant, and an excellent souvenir shop.
Strada Lipscani & Hanul cu Tei C-6, Str. Lipscani,
Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse C-6, Pasajul MaccaVilacrosse; Calea Victoriei, MUniversitate. Today packed with cafes - most of which offer hookah pipes and exotic tobaccos - Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse (pictured right) was built in 1891 as a conduit between Calea Victoriei - then the busiest street in the city - and the National Bank. It is named for a Catalan architect, Xavier Villacrosse, who from 1840-50 was the chief architect of Bucharest, and Mihalache Macca, son-in-law of the buildings architect, Felix Xenopol. It is covered with an arcade yellow glass roof to allow natural light, also intended to encourage commerce at street level. In other words, this was Bucharests first shopping mall. During the communist period the passage was known by the name Pasajul Bijuteriei (Jewellery Passage) and hosted the citys largest jewellers. Its original name was restored in 1990. Romulus & Remus C-6, Piata Roma (Str. Lipscani),
MUniversitate. In Piata Roma, at the entrance to Strada Lipscani, is this statue of the Roman wolf nurturing Romulus and Remus. A replica of a similar monument in Rome, it was a presented to the city by the Italian state in 1906, to signify Romanias Latin origins. Officially called the Lupa Capitolina, it has led a nomadic existence, and was most recently
Pasajul Macca-Villacrosse
Strada Smardan C-6, Str. Smardan, MUniversitate/ Piata Unirii. Perhaps the busiest street in the Lipscani area is Str. Smardan, home today to any number of bars, pubs, cafes and restaurants, and which when the weather is good just looks like one huge terrace. History buffs might like to know that in January 1859 at No. 42 (then the Hotel Concordia), Wallachian deputies elected Alexandru Ioan Cuza as their Prince. As Moldavian deputies had already done likewise a week earlier, the election that took place here created the first unified Romanian state since Mihai Bravus short-lived reign of 1600. There was a plaque marking the spot until bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Universitate C-5, Piata Universitatii, MUniversitate. The twin semi-circular buildings in Piata Universitatii which are in many ways the entrance to the Old Town were built in 1906 to serve as the headquarters of Romanias largest insurance company. In front of them are four statues, of Gheorghe Lazar (founder, in 1818, of the first Romanian school in Bucharest), Ion Heliade Radulescu (a founding member of the Romanian Academy), Mihai Voievod Viteazul (the first person to unite the three Romanian provinces, in 1600) and Spiru Haret (a mathematician, astronomer and politician who as education minister in the 1880s and 1890s created the foundations of the modern Romanian education system). Opposite is the university building itself, constructed over a twelve year period from 1857 to 1869 at the behest of Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the time Prince of Romania. It originally housed three faculties (Law, Humanities and Science), but today houses just the Faculty of Letters and Languages, as well as the universitys administrative departments. The central corp of the building was entirely rebuilt in the late 1940s after it was destroyed during heavy allied bombing in 1944. Though rebuilt as an exact replica of the original, many sculptures and basreliefs by Carol Storck were deemed irreplaceable and lost forever. Zlatari Church (Biserica Zlatari) C-6, Calea Victoriei 12, MUniversitate. The Zlatari Church (Biserica Zlatari) was built in the 19th century on the site of an earlier church, and is best known for its interior frescoes by Gheorghe Tatarescu. They were painted from 1853-6. Frescoes also decorate the door. December 2013 - January 2014
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DIREcTORY
Cleaners
15 55/(+4) 0723 89 22 86, www.egnate.ro. Professional cleaning service: apartments, houses, offices etc. They will even come and clear up after you have had the builders in, and can take care of tricky things such as marble and furniture.
Dentists
4, tel./fax (+4) 021 320 01 51, www.germandentist.ro. Probably the best dentist in the city. Whats more, you can bring the kids too, as they now have special rooms equipped just for them. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. For emergencies (24hrs) tel. (+4) 0744 49 91 99. Also at (B-2) Calea Dorobantilor 208, tel. (+4) 021 231 88 56.
Egnate B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 10, tel. (+4) 0734 11
B.B. Clinic - German Dentist D-6, Str. Ionescu Gion
Clinics & Hospitals

Emergency Clinic Hospital (Spitalul de Urgenta Floreasca) C-3, Calea Floreasca 8, tel. (+4) 021 599
23 00, www.urgentafloreasca.ro. Best state-run hospital in Romania. Efficient, clean, and well-run.Q Open 24hrs. Unirea Medical Center C-6, B-dul Unirii 57, bl. E4, tel. (+4) 021 327 11 88/(+4) 021 9268, www.cmu.ro. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Dry Cleaners
5asec B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 111, tel. (+4) 021 236 00 98/(+4) 0762 28 53 47, www.5asec.ro. Best dry cleaners in town.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Also at (E-7) Calea Vitan 13 and many other locations around town.
Foreign representations
Austria C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 7, tel. (+4) 021 201 Belgium D-4, B-dul Dacia 58, tel. (+4) 021 210 29 69. Bulgaria B-3, Str. Rabat 5, tel. (+4) 021 230 21 50. Canada A-3, Str. Tuberozelor 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 307 50 00. Croatia D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 1, tel. (+4) 021 300 Czech Republic C-5, Str. Ion Ghica 11, tel. (+4) 021 Denmark D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 3, tel. (+4) 021 300 Finland B-3, Str. Atena 2bis, tel. (+4) 021 230 75 45. France B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 13-15, tel. (+4) 021
08 00. 303 92 30. 56 12.
36 55.
303 10 00. Germany B-3, Cpt. Av. Gh. Demetriade 6-8, tel. (+4) 021 202 98 30.
La Bibliotheque
(+4) 021 212 51 71, (+4) 0749 77 77 77, bonjour@ labibliotheque.ro, www.labibliotheque.ro. Wow, we like this place. Its unique, genuinely different: a beauty salon and library, housed in one of the most glorious villas in the city. It sounds as though it shouldnt really work, but it does, thanks in the main to terrific design and a great community of people and friends that has quickly grown up around the place. Its popular for book launches and the like. We recommend you go there, its a genuine Bucharest first. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. PW
La Bibliotheque B-3, Str. Duiliu Zamfirescu 10, tel.
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DIREcTORY
Swimming Pools
Crowne Plaza B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.crowneplaza. ro. Indoor pool in a leafy setting at the Crowne Plaza hotel. Sauna, jacuzzi and massage too.QOpen 06:30 23:00. Day tickets valid 08:00-16:00 cost 65 lei, tickets valid 16:00-23:00 cost 90 lei. Children under 16 cost 50 lei at any time of day if accompanied by an adult. Hilton Health Club C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77. Indoor pool, sauna, steam room, massage, weight and fitness room, and a host of other wellness facilities. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. Day tickets cost 120 lei. InterContinental Hotel C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. Probably the highest swimming pool in Romania (its on one of the top floors of the InterContinental hotel). The views are great, there is a gym and steam room too, and you can sunbathe on the balcony. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. Day tickets valid from 06:00-16:00 cost 80 lei (adults), 40 lei (children). Tickets valid from 06:00-22:00 cost 120 lei (adults) and 80 lei (children).
021 242 16 15, www.pescariusports.ro. Good outdoor and indoor pools open to the public. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Adults 60 lei Mon-Fri, 100 lei Sat, Sun. Children 40 lei Mon-Fri, 50 lei Sat, Sun. Free for children under three.
DIREcTORY
Schools in Bucharest
For Mums and Dads who live in Bucharest, the good news is that the city has some outstanding schools: both state and private. Indeed, there are a handful of state schools in Bucharest (both primary and secondary) which regularly meet an outstanding academic level, even if their facilities are somewhat lacking (few state schools have sports fields). There are huge differences between state schools however, and competition for places at the best is tough. There is also of course the fact that unless your kids can speak Romanian, the state system will be practically closed to them. Fortunately, the private sector has jumped in to fill this breach, and there are now a number of excellent private sector schools in Bucharest offering a high level of education to children of all nationalities (and not just expats: many wealthy Romanians choose to send their children to these private schools). We provide a list of the best private schools below. All boast outstanding academic records and modern facilities, native English speaking teachers, and a vast range of extra-curricular activities.
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International Schools
196, Comuna Voluntari, tel. (+4) 021 204 43 00/ (+4) 021 204 43 01, fax (+4) 021 204 43 03, office@ aisb.ro, www.aisb.ro. Athena Greek School of Bucharest D-6, Str. Parfumului 9, www.greekschool.ro. British School of Bucharest Erou Iancu Nicolae 42, tel. (+4) 021 267 89 19/(+4) 0728 13 34 33, office@britishschool.ro, www.britishschool.ro. Bucharest Christian Academy D-7, Str. Vasile Voiculescu 26, tel. (+4) 021 323 58 87, www. bcaromania.org. Cambridge School of Bucharest B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 39, tel. (+4) 021 210 21 31/(+4) 021 210 21 38, www.cambridgeschool.ro. International British School E-5, Str. Agricultori 21-23, tel. (+4) 021 253 16 98, fax (+4) 021 253 16 97, office@ibsb.ro, www.ibsb.ro.
American International School Sos. Pipera-Tunari
Pescariu Sports & Spa D-2, Str. Glodeni 3, tel. (+4)
Press Box
What the international press has been saying about In Your Pocket... Brutally honest. Wall Street Journal Entertaining and honest: at times devastatingly so, the In Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem tame by comparison. The Independent Solid, reliable information on everything from where to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72 hours in a city. The Guardian The guides are free to download and print off as pdfs and have information on where to eat and stay and what to see on European city breaks. The Times In Your Pocket guides are each written by an English language writer who lives locally. All information is also available on the publishers website. Sueddeutsche Zeitung Bucharest In Your Pocket
Greece E-5, Str. Pache Protopopescu 1-3, tel. (+4) 021

031 620 43 00. Ireland B-4, Str. Buzesti 50-52, et. 3, tel. (+4) 021 310 21 31. Italy B-4, Str. Henri Coanda 9, tel. (+4) 021 305 21 00. Macedonia D-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 144, tel. (+4) 021 210 08 80. Moldova B-3, Aleea Alexandru 40, tel. (+4) 021 230 04 74. Netherlands B-3, Str. Aleea Alexandru 20, tel. (+4) 021 208 60 30. Norway B-3, Str. Atena 18, tel. (+4) 021 306 98 00. Poland B-3, Aleea Alexandru 23, tel. (+4) 021 308 22 00. Portugal B-3, Str. Paris 55, tel. (+4) 021 230 41 36. Russia B-3, Sos. Pavel Kiseleff 6, tel. (+4) 021 222 31 70. Serbia B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 34, tel. (+4) 021 211 98 71. Slovakia C-5, Str. Otetari 1, tel. (+4) 021 300 61 00. Spain B-3, Aleea Alexandru 43, tel. (+4) 021 318 10 80. Sweden B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 43, tel. (+4) 021 406 71 00. Switzerland B-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 16-20, tel. (+4) 021 206 16 00. UK C-4, Str. Jules Michelet 24, tel. (+4) 021 201 72 00. USA B-dul Liviu Librescu 4-5, tel. (+4) 021 200 33 00. For a full list of foreign embassies and representations in Bucharest, visit inyourpocket.com.
Hungary C-4, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 63-65, tel. (+4)
209 41 70.
Pharmacies
24hrs. Also at (B-3) Str. Av. Radu Beller 8, and many other locations around the city. Sensiblu C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 7, www.sensiblu. com. QOpen 24hrs. Also at (B-3) Str. Radu Beller 6, and many other locations.
Help Net A-3, B-dul Unirii 27, www.helpnet.ro. Q Open
Key cuts
El Chei C-5, Str. Coltei 6, tel. (+4) 021 311 14 18, www. elchei.ro. Call (+4) 0722 20 51 10 ifyou get locked out of your apartment late at night.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. bucharest.inyourpocket.com
dence, tel. (+4) 021 380 35 35/(+4) 021 380 36 36, fax (+4) 021 380 38 38, office@inspe.ro, www. inspe.ro. International School of Bucharest Sos. Gara Catelu 1R, tel. (+4) 021 306 95 30, fax (+4) 021 306 95 34, info@isb.ro, www.isb.ro. IOANID Preschool International Education Str. Jandarmeriei 14, Complex Rezidential Stejarii, www. internationalkindergarden.ro. Japanese School in Bucharest A-2, Str. Alexandru Constantinescu 61, tel. (+4) 021 222 19 85, fax (+4) 021 222 19 86, jpsbucharest@gmail.com, www.jpschool.ro. Lauder-Reut C-6, Str. Iuliu Barasch 15, tel. (+4) 021 320 15 38, fax (+4) 021 320 15 75, lauder_reut@ yahoo.com, www.lauder-reut.ro. Lycee Francais B-4, Str. Christian Tell 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 58 93/(+4) 021 212 58 94, fax (+4) 021 312 09 74, lfb.adn@lyfrabuc.ro, www.lyfrabuc.ro. Mark Twain International School Str. Erou Iancu Nicolae 25B, tel. (+4) 021 267 89 12/(+4) 0724 00 09 00, fax (+4) 021 267 89 85, contact@marktwainschool.ro, www.marktwainschool.ro.
International School for Primary Education (InSPE) Str. Petre Aurelian 72, Green Lake Resi-
Removals & Storage

AGS Worldwide Movers B-dul Basarabia 256 (Faur Industrial Park, entrance from B-dul 1 Decembrie 1918), tel. (+4) 021 345 06 66. Euro Mini Storage B-dul Theodor Pallady 42 J, tel. (+4) 031 100 18 88, www.euroministorage.com.
Northern Bucharest
Village Museum
Romanian National Rugby Stadium
Arc de Triumf
Romanian Television (TVR)
Casa Victor
Res
iden
ce A
rcul
rium de T ll
f o
Pico
nd o Mo
Circus Globus
Peasant Museum Grigore Antipa Museum
Geology Museum
Nonna Mia
Emergency Hospital
Institutul Matei Bals

Starlight
Childrens Emergency Hospital
Marshal Garden
Piata Obor
Minerva
George Enescu Museum
Duke
Ibis Gara de Nord
Hello
Moxa
Howard Johnson Grand Plaza Dan Golden Tulip Yeshoah Tova
Andys
Art Collections Museum
Piata Amzei
Central & Southern Bucharest

Ambassador Boutique Hotel Monaco Schitul Darvari
Berthelot Athenee Palace Hilton Radisson Blu
Scala
Theodor Aman Museum

University Carol I Library Statue
Italian Church
National Revolution Art Monument Museum (MNAR) Cretulescu

Trianon
Interior Ministry
Comfort Suites Tempo El Greco
Opera Novotel Grand Continental
InterContinental
Epoque
Maje
Capitol Cismigiu
stic
Caps a
Casa
Z Boutique
Museum of Bucharest
Central Doamnei Volo
K&K Elisabeta Coltea Church & Hospital
Russian Church
Rembrandt
Mihai Voda
History Museum
Ibis Parliament Parliament
Stavropoleos Church Sf. Dumitru
Tania
Baratiei
Old Court Palace & Church
Cocor
NH
Confort Traian
Europa Royale
Domnita Balasa Royal
International
Contemporary Art Museum

JW Marriott
Antim Monastery Horoscop

M
Double Tree by Hilton Patriarchal Cathedral Radu Voda Monastery Bucur Church
Carol Parc Suter Inn
Technology Museum
M
98
STREET REGISTER
13 Septembrie, Calea B6 21 Decembrie 1989, Piata C5 Academiei, Str. C5 Alecsandri Vasile, Str. B4 Alexandrescu Grigore, Intr. C4 Alexandrescu Grigore, Str. B4 Aman Theodor, Str. B5 Amman, Str. C3 Amzei, Intr. B4 Apolodor, Str. B6 Argentina, Str. B3 Arghezi Tudor, Str. C5 Atelierului, Str. A4 Atena, Str. B3 Balaban Emil, Str. C4 Balcescu Nicolae, Bd. C5 Baniei, Str. C6 Banului, Str. B5 Baratiei, Str. C6 Batistei, Str. C5 Berna, Str. B3 Berthelot H. M., G-ral., Str. B5 Berzei, Str. A4 Biserica Amzei, Str. B4 Biserica Enei, Str. C5 Bitolia, Intr. B3 Blanari, Str. C6 Blanc Louis, Arh., Str. B3 Blanduziei, Str. C5 Bogdan Ion, Prof., Str. C4 Botez Eugen, Cmdr., Str. C3 Bratianu I.c., Bd. C6 Brazilia, Str. B3 Brebu, Str. E3 Brezoianu Ion, Str. B5 Brutus M.i., Str. B6 Bruxelles, Str. B3 Budisteanu Constantin, G-ral, Str. B5 Buiestrului, Str. C3 Buzesti, Intr. B4 Buzesti, Piata A4 Buzesti, Str. B4 Buzoiani Iani, Str. C2 Buzoianu Ion, Lt.col., Intr. C6 Caderea Bastiliei, Intr. B4 Caderea Bastiliei, Str. B4 Caderon Jean Louis, Str. C5 Calin Ion, Erou, Str. C4 Cameliei, Str. A4 Carada Eugeniu, Str. C6 Caragea Ioan Voda, Str. C4 Caragiale I.l., Str. C5 Caragiale I.l.,intr. C5 Carol I, Bd. D5 Catargiu Lascar, Bd. B4 Cavafii Vechi, Str. C6 Cazzavillan Luigi, Str. B5 Cernat Alexandru, G-ral, Str. A4 Cioranu Mihai, Str. A6 Clucerului, Str. A3 Clunet, Dr., Str. A6 Coanda Constantin, G-ral., Str. B4 Coanda Henri, Str. B4 Cobalcescu Grigore, Prof., Str. B5 Coltei, Str. C5 Constantin Daniel, Str. B4 Constitutiei, Piata B6 Conta Vasile, Str. C5 Coposu Corneliu, Bd. C6 Coposu Corneliu, Piata D6 Cornescu, Str. C3 Cotiturii, Str. A5 Covaci, Str. C6 Crisana, Str. A5 Crisului, Str. C6 Cronicarilor, Str. C3 Cuza Alexandru Ioan, Bd. A4 Dacia, Bd. D4 Dascalu Nicolae, Serg., Intr. B4 David Emmanuel, Str. C4 Davila Carol, Dr., Str A6 Dealul Mitropoliei, Alee C6 Demetriade Gheorghe, Cpt.av., Str B3 Dianei, Str. C5 Doamna Oltea, Str. C3 Dona Nicolae, G-ral, Str. B5 Dorobanti, Calea B3 Dorobanti, Piata B3 Dragalina Ion, G-ral., Str. B6 Drobeta, Str. C4 Duca Gheorghe, Bd. A4 Dumbrava Rosie, Str. C4 Eforie, Str. C5 Eftimiu Victor, Intr. B5 Elie Radu, Str. B5 Eminescu Mihai, Intr. C4 Eminescu Mihai, Str. D4 Enescu George, Piata B5 Enescu George, Str. B5 Episcopiei, Str. C5 Eroii Sanitari, Bd. A5 Eroilor, Bd. A5 Eroilor, Piata A6 Felix Iacob, Dr., Str. A4 Filipescu Nicolae, Str. C5 Finlanda, Str. B3 Floreasca, Cale C3 Florescu Ion, G-ral, Str. C5 Franceza, Str. C6 Frumoasa, Intr. B4 Frumoasa, Str. B4 Furtuna Stefan, Intr. A5 Gabroveni, Str. C6 Gara De Nord, Piata A4 Gara De Nord, Str. A4 Georgescu George, Str. B6 Ghica Ion, Str. C5 Golescu Dinicu, Bd. A4 Golescu Nicolae, Str. C5 Greceanu Paul, Str. C4 Grigorescu Eremia, Str. C4 Grivitei, Cale B4 Gusti Dimitrie, Str. A5 Gutenberg, Str. B5 Haga, Str. B3 Hagi Moscu Maria, Str. A3 Halelor, Str. C6 Haret Spiru, Str. B5 Hasdeu Iulia, Intr. B4 Hasdeu Iulia, Str. B4 Horatiu, Str. B4 Hristo Botev, Bd. C5 Iancu De Hunedoara, Bd. B4 Icoanei, Str. C4 Ilfov, Str. B6 Iorga Nicolae, Intr. B4 Iorga Nicolae, Str. B4 Iosif O. Eugen, Dr., Str. A6 Iulian Stefan, Str. A3 Izvor, Str. A6 Justitiei, Str. B6 Kiseleff P .d., Bd. B3 Kogalniceanu Mihail, Bd B5 Kogalniceanu Mihail, Piata B5 Lacatusului, Str. C2 Lacul Tei, Bd. D3 Lahovari Alexandru, Piata C4 Lantului, Str. A6 Lascar Vasile, Str. C5 Lazar Gheorghe, Str. B5 Lebedei, Str. A3 Libertatii, Bd. B6 Libertatii, Piata B7 Lipova, Str. A5 Lipscani, Str. C6 Lisabona, Str. B3 Lister, Dr., Str. A6 Londra, Str. B3 Lupu Dionisie, Str. C5 Luterana, Str. B5 Macedoniei, Str. A5 Magheru Gheorghe, Bd C5 Magiresti, Str. A4 Maltopol, Str. A4 Mamulari, Str. C6 Manolescu Grigore, Str. A3 Manu Gheorghe, G-ral, Str. B4 Maracineanu Walter, Piata B5 Masaryk Thomas, Str. C5 Mendeleev D.i., Str. C4 Mexic, Str. B3 Michelet Julles, Str. C4 Micle Veronica, Str. A4 Mihai Voda, Str. B6 Mihalache Ion, Bd. A3 Mihnea Voda, Str. C6 Mille Constantin, Str. B5 Millo Matei, Str. B5 Mincu Ion, Arh., Str. B3 Mirinescu Mihail, Dr., Str. A6 Miron Costin, Str. A4 Mitropolit Antim Ivireanul, Str. B6 Monetariei, Str. B3 Mosilor, Cale D4 Moxa Mihail, Str. B4 Muresanu Andrei, Str. B3 Musatescu Tudor, Piata B5 Natiunile Unite, Bd. B6 Natiunile Unite, Piata B6 Neculce Ion, Str. A3 Negri Costache, Str. A6 Negruzzi Iacob, Str. A4 Negulescu Stefan, Str. C3 Occidentului, Str. B4 Oslo, Str. B3 Ostasilor, Str. B5 Otetari,str. C5 Paris, Str. B3 Parvan Vasile, Str. B5 Pasteur Louis, Dr., Str. A6 Patriarhiei, Str. C6 Petrescu Camil, Intr. C4 Philippide Alexandru, Str. C4 Piata Amzei, Str. B4 Pitar Mos, Str. C5 Poenaru Bordea, Str. B6 Poiana Narciselor, Str. B5 Politie, Str. B6 Polizu Gheorghe, Str. A4 Polona, Str. C4 Poni Petru, Str. A4 Popa Tatu, Str. B5 Popescu-gopo Ion, Str. A6 Povernei, Str. B4 Praga, Str. B3 Praporgescu David, G-ral., Str. C5 Pretorienilor, Str. A6 Putul Cu Plopi, Str. B5 Putul Lui Zamfir, Str. Quinet Edgar, Str. Quito, Piata Rabat, Str. Radu Voda, Str. Ramniceanu Naum, Str. Regina Elisabeta, Bd. Regina Maria, Bd. Revolutiei, Piata Rigas, Intr. Roma, Intr. Roma, Str. Romana, Piata Rosetti C.a., Piata Rosetti C.a., Str. Rosetti Maria, Str. Rossini Gioachino, Str. Saligny Anghel, Ing., Str. Sapientei, Str. Sarandy Frosa, Str. Scarlatescu, Str. Schitul Magureanu, Bd. Scoala Floreasca, Str. Scoalei, Str. Selari, Intr. Selari, Str. Sepcari, Str. Sevastopol, Intr. Sevastopol, Str. Sfanta Vineri, Str. Sfantul Constantin, Str. Sfantul Elefterie, Str. Sfintii Apostoli, Str. Sfintii Voievozi, Piata Sfintii Voievozi, Str. Slanic, Str. Slatineanu Ion, Str. Slavesti, Str. Smardan, Str. Sofia, Str. Stahi Constantin, Str. Staicovici Nicolae, Dr., Str. Stavropoleos, Str. Stefan Cel Mare, Sosea Stirbei Voda, Intr. Stirbei Voda, Str. Tirana, Str. Titulescu Nicolae, Sosea Tokio, Str. Tomescu Toma, Dr., Intr. Transilvaniei, Str. Tudor Stefan, Intr. Tunari, Str. Unirii, Bd. Unirii, Piata Universitatii, Piata Vacarescu Barbu, Str. Venezuela, Str. Verona Arthur, Pictor, Str. Victoriei, Calea Victoriei, Piata Visarion I.c., Str. Vladoianu Barbu, G-ral, Str. Vlaicu Aurel, Str. Vulcanescu Mircea, Str. Washington, Str. Witting, Str. Xenopol Alexandru, Str. Zalomit Z. Ion. Str. Zola Emile, Str. B3 C5 B3 B3 C6 C3 C5 C6 B5 B5 B3 B3 B4 C5 C5 C5 C3 B5 B6 A3 A3 B5 C3 C5 C6 C6 C6 B4 B4 C6 B5 A6 B6 B4 B4 C5 C4 C4 C6 B3 B5 A6 C6 D4 B5 B5 B3 A4 B3 B4 B5 C3 C4 C6 C6 C5 C3 B3 C5 B4 B4 B4 A3 C4 B4 B3 A4 C4 B5 B3

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