Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Summer 2014
Feature
GEAR REVIEW
Climbing Ropes
CLIMBING ROUTES
Tom Thumb, Multi Pitch Rock Climb in the Blue Mountains, NSW.
REGULAR SECTIONS
Chairmans Chat with Terry Cole NZAC Australian section commitee profile - Vice Chair Matthew Nielsen Book Review Feature Article Denali, King of Alaska Gear Review Climbing Route Technical Tips Upcoming Section Trips
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I started rock climbing at an indoor climbing gym in Michigan, USA in 1994 when I was just finishing up university; it was such a new, cutting edge thing back then! Michigan being a very flat part of the world, indoor rock climbing planted the seed for mountaineering so I moved to Oregon, USA seeking to fuel this passion. I lived at the base of the Cascade Range for over 8 years and summited almost all of the major peaks i.e. Hood, Jefferson, North Sister, Baker etc. I did backpacking, cross country skiing, rock climbing, mountain biking, mountaineering, and back country telemark skiing. During this time I served as board member of The Cascade Mountaineers, a small local climbing club established to facilitate climbing in the local area. In 2000 I did a trek from Cho-Oyu Advanced Base Camp to Everest Base Camp North. This trip really put the world in perspective. For me the people and the culture were the most rewarding part of the experience. In 2002, I know my accent would have you think otherwise, I moved to Australia. In about 2005 I settled in Melbourne and become active in the Australian Section of the NZAC. I have served in some capacity on the section committee since 2006. Injuries, family commitments, and work have tied me down a bit but I still try to get out as often as I can. In 2007 I spent two weeks in the NZ Southern Alps climbing the Minarets and several other lesser peaks in the neighbourhood. As of late mountain biking is the easy outlet followed by trips to Arapiles that are too few and far and few between.
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Next Issue
NZAC - AUSTRaLIa SEcTIOn EDITOR Brad Jackson / Terry Cole SEcTIOn CHaIRMan Terry Cole VIcE CHaIRMan Matt Nielsen COMMITEE MEMBERS James Roth Jason Robertson Josh Holloway Quentin Hanich
Still on the social media space I have closed down the old, outdated and unused aussie mountaineers yahoo group. The reason that it was closed was the recently updated NZAC main website now has a forum space which it never did before that is why the yahoo groups for each section were originally formed. The forum is excellent and is broken up into sections such as Find a buddy, Gear for sale, Route info. The forum is very active and I was surprised just how widely used it is. You can post that you are looking for a
www.alpineclub.org.nz | Summer 2014 | 3
Cover Photo
Book Review
The Kahiltna Peaks with Foraker in the distance, from the S Buttress of Denali
Thank you
Thank you to our three corporate supporters of the NZAC Expedition Capital Fund for their donations to date. We encourage members to continue supporting these companies to help us grow this fund for the Expeditions of the future. https://alpineclub.org. nz/donation/expeditioncapital-fund
Denali Mt McKinley from the East side looking up the Muldrow glacier route
Feature
by - Terry Cole
Terrain
Non technical, moderate steep snow
Descent route
West Buttress
Start / Finish
Kahiltna Base Camp Muldrow Glacier Base Camp Kahiltna Base Camp Kahiltna Base Camp
Non technical, steep Muldrow snow Glacier Technical, mod steep snow mixed snow and rock West Buttress
Getting there
The major international airport in Alaska is at Anchorage. The airport is located about 6 1/2 kms south of the city proper. Anyone not from Alaska is better off flying to Anchorage for an attempt on Denali. From the Anchorage airport, it is roughly a two hour drive to Talkeetna (Talkeetna is a small town and the main staging area for climbing most routes on Denali and the Alaska Range in general). Limited supplies and equipment are available in Talkeetna, so it is best to get most of your shopping done in Anchorage before heading out. Two main retailers in Anchorage are, Alaska Mountaineering & Hiking (alaskamountaineering.com) & REI (rei. com). Anchorage accomodation, I found the Best Western to be affordable, clean, and convenient. Best Western Golden Lion Hotel (907) 561-1522 book.bestwestern.com Transport to Talkeetna, you can go either go road or by train. Denali Overland Transportation (800) 651-5221 www.denalioverland.com Talkeetna Taxi (907) 355-TAXI www.talkeetnataxi.com Upon arrival in Talkeetna, recommended accomodations include the following: Swiss-Alaska Inn (907) 733-2424 swissalaska.com Talkeetna Hostel (907) 733-4678 talkeetnahostel@gmail.com Alaska Railroad (907) 265-2494 www.akrr.com
When to climb
The normal climbing season is from late-April to mid-July with the most popular period from midMay to late-June. In general, the earlier you climb, the colder it will be high up on the mountain and the later you climb, the sloppier conditions will be on the lower Kahiltna Glacier. Later in the season, many climbers opt to travel on the lower mountain during the evening hours when the snow is relatively firm.
Showing the 3 main West side routes in red from the Kahiltna Base Camp, West Buttress, West Rib & Cassin Ridge
Red Tape
Permits Mountaineers attempting a climb of Mt. McKinley must register with the Talkeetna Ranger station at least 60 days prior to their start date. A Mountaineering Special Use Fee of $350 is payable for each expedition member. Clean Mountain Canisters (CMCs) The CMC is a portable toilet designed to address Denalis remote, rugged environment and the unique logistical challenges presented by a 3-week long expedition. They are lightweight, convenient, durable and reusable. The National Park Service has installed outhouses for public use at Kahiltna Basecamp and 14,200 feet on the West Buttress of Denali. Fuel White gas & butane canisters are available in Talkeetna. Air service operators supply white gas in bulk to the Kahiltna Base Camp. Fuel cans distributed from the Kahiltna Basecamp will be marked with the expeditions permit number. Rescue The National Park Service does not have a policy to charge climbers for genuine rescues, however, any hospital, air ambulance or other associated costs after leaving the mountain are the sole responsibility of the climber. Mobile phones work well above 4,325 mtrs (14,200 ft). FRS (Family Radio Service) radios are recommended for on-mountain communication. FRS channel 1 is monitored for emergencies.
Meandering Moose Lodging (907) 733-1000 meandering-moose-lodging.com Additional provisions can be got from AMS Mountain Shop F street, Talkeetna (907) 7331016 Climbing routes on the south side of McKinley require that you take a ski plane from Talkeetna to Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. The same services can also arrange to fly you from Anchorage to Talkeetna for an extra charge. K-2 Aviation (907) 733-2291 www.flyk2.com Sheldon Air Service, (907) 733-2321 www.sheldonairservice.com Fly Denali (907) 733-7768 www.flydenali.com
Gear Reviews
AS PART OF OUR REGULAR GEAR REVIEW SECTION THIS SUMMER WE WILL BE LOOKING AT THE JETBOIL STOVE COOKING SYSTEM AND THE BLACK DIAMOND ATC GUIDE BELAY DEVICE.
Article by - Terry Cole
Jetboil Stove
BD ATC Guide
An all-in-one design, The versatile Black combining burner and Diamond ATC-Guide cooking vessel in one belay device offers Description compact unit. Everything complete belay and you need is stacked and rappel functions and can stored inside the 1.0 liter be used with a variety of cooking cup. rope sizes.
Tech Specs 1ltr capacity, 400 gms, Boil time about 3 minutes High altitude expeditions, Multi day climbs 88 gms, Handles ropes 7.7mm - 11mm Multi pitch trad climbing, Ice climbing
Best Use
Pros
Super efficient, Compact, Versitile, Auto-locking Spare companion cup function, Bring 2 climbers available without stove up at once, Friction control Hard to simmer, Unstable without stand None
Summary
I have used a Jetboil for Awesome bit of kit. A about 5 years now and must have. How do you never leave home without make the most popular it. I am always amazed at belay device in the world just how efficient these even better? You give it new breed of stoves an extra loop that lets you are. Love how the stove belay your second directly and gas fit into the pot. from the anchor, with Now comes in a range of auto-locking capability, larger pot sizes, great for and then you machine melting snow on those high out every last gram of mountain climbs or when unneeded material and call you are cooking up a feast it the Black Diamond ATC for two or more. Guide.
www.climbinganchors.com.au
Ph: 02 6651 5510 Unit 5, 8-10 Industrial Drive, Coffs Harbour, NSW 2450
Massive range of gear and brands Excellent advice Value for money Fast Shipping Family Business Personal Service
Entry Abseils A fun trip in itself. (Note) all abseils have U bolts so the rope can be threaded straight through these. Abseil one (47m) Exciting as you go over the lip. Stop virtually at the end of the rope on the lower bushy ledge (5m below the cave ledge). Walk right 8m facing the cliff, through bushes to the u-bolt anchors. Abseil two (45m) Stop at the u-bolts just below the large bushy ledge. Abseil three (48m) Uses virtually the full rope to get you on large bushy ledge with trees. Walk right about 10m to start of climb. There is a small cairn in a slight corner. The first bolt should be visible about 3m up.
Climb
Tom Thumb Multi-Pitch Trad climbing with bolted belay stations 13 166 mtrs
Description
An easy day out in an adventurous location. This climb uses mainly bolts for protection (bring brackets) and a few camming devices. Best accessed from the top via abseil. Well suited to groups of three. Pitches are split to allow reasonable communication. The walk each way is about 1 hours and is quite pleasant.
Directions
Just before Leura turn right from the Great Western Highway onto Mt Hay Road. Drive to the Fortress Ridge turn off on the left (sign posted). There is a locked gate. Leave car here and walk 25 minutes or ride 15 minutes to end of road. Walk out along the ridge till almost the end and then veer right onto the Canyon exit track. (Another 40 minutes). Go a few hundred metres slightly downwards, then along the base of a small cliffline. Where the track opens to the main valley, put on your harness and leave the canyon track, skirting left around the point. Once you leave the track, be careful when approaching the cliff edge as it is easy to slip or trip-over with a potentially fatal slide.
Route
P1 (18m, 8) Up a few metres to bolt (used more to show direction than for protection). Up to vertical crack for pro and up bulbous wall (another bolt on right) to DBB at top of buttress. Walk up and right 8 metres to start of next pitch. DBB on wall. P2 (40m, 12) Left of belay grunt onto wall. Natural pro in crack or horizontal breaks up higher. Clip bolt on left. Then move diagonally right to small friend (#0) in horizontal crack and further rightwards on easy stuff to bolt (clip with sling to reduce drag). Up left clipping two bolts, steep tricky move (easiest if you move left). Easy 10m ramble with two bolts to DBB. Best to give your second a tight rope when they start the pitch. P3 (16m, 9) Bolt on right shows the way, then up crack on left to belay. (Bolt and # friend.) P4 (45m, 8) From right of the belay move up a few metres, then traverse left past bolt runner to arte/ ridge. Up ridge 30m past 4 bolts. Walk across rightwards to bolt on little buttress. Over this and walk 10m+ (no bolt protection) and scramble through small bushes up easy crack into cave to DBB. P5 (21m, 12) From belay start to the right. Up wall trending left past 4 bolts. Climb onto large blocks at top. They seem OK. Traverse right passing bolt that protects the second to DBB.
Technicial Tips
Single Ropes
The Single Rope System is best used on single and multipitch routes whereby the protection is in one straight line, such as sport routes where the bolts are placed in a straight line or trad routes whereby the protection can be placed in a fairly straight line. If the protection is not in a straight line, more of a zigzag pattern, then there will be rope drag. Rope drag is the amount of friction the rope causes when running through the quickdraws/runners. This friction can be so large that in a fall, the protection is being pulled out side ways, causing the gear to become insecure. Rope Drag on a Single Rope System can be minimized by using longer extenders as these will make the line straighter. If the climbing route wanders alot and zig zags all the way up, a Double Rope System could be more practical. When using a Single Rope, you can only abseil maximun half a rope length. So if you are using a 60-metre rope with a single rope system, then you can only abseil 30 metres. Single Ropes are cheaper than Double or Twin Ropes, but less durable as the rope drag is more . As a rule of thumb, most ropes with a thickness of 10-11 mm are Single Ropes.
Climbing Ropes
CONFUSED ABOUT SINGLE, DOUBLE AND TWIN ROPES. WHAT ARE THEY FOR ? WHAT DO THOSE ROPE SYMBOLS MEAN ? HOW TO USE THEM ? LETS LOOK AT THE 3 TYPES
Double Ropes
The Double Rope System is also often used, probably because it is a more flexible system than the Single Rope System. With the Double Rope System, one can reduce or entirely cut out any rope drag. This is a major advantage as it contributes to the safety of the system. The Double Rope System is often used in Traditional Rock Climbing, Mountaineering, and Ice Climbing. Double ropes are sometimes called Half Ropes and are the same thing. The two Double Ropes are more practical to carry. The load of the two ropes can be divided equally between two people. When the two double ropes are tied together, then one can abseil the full rope length as opposed to a half rope length in a Single Rope System. Compared to the Single Rope System, the Double Rope System is safer and more durable.
Twin Ropes
Not used as often as the single or double system, but for longer multi-pitch routes twin ropes can be very handy and is a favourite of mine for climbing steep ice. Twin ropes are great on steep waterfall ice climbs many ice climbers are fans, but can equally be good on the right straight trad multi ptich rock climb also. The main important difference with the Twin Rope System compared to the Double Rope System is that you clip both the twin ropes into the same piece of protection. This means that the two twin ropes will both go through each point of protection as opposed to the double ropes were you clip each double rope into a seperate piece of protection, dont get this confused as twin ropes are not rated to take a single strand fall but double ropes are rated to take a fall on only one strand. With the Twin Rope System, rope drag may be an issue as in a Single Rope System. A big advantage as with double ropes is that a full rope length abseil can be made possible by tying the two twin ropes together. So with 60 mtr twin ropes, you can abseil 60 mtrs as opposed to a 60 mtr single rope which you can only abseil a maximun of 30 mtrs. Twin Ropes are typically between 7-8 mm so are very light to carry.
Trip type Date Location Leader Party size limit Trip info
Ice Climbing 22 - 24 August 2014 Blue Lake, Snowy Mountains, NSW Terry Cole tezza.cole@yahoo.com.au; 0455 255 662 8 Come and climb Ice at blue Lake. Good intro for people wanting to learn the skills. Will be camping up on main range near lake. Ropes, ice screws and trad gear supplied. Both beginners and experienced members welcome. Alpine Mixed Climbing 12 - 21 December 2014 Upper Tasman Mt Cook NP, New Zealand Terry Cole tezza.cole@yahoo.com.au; 0455 255 662 6 Time allowed for plenty of climbing & bad weather days. Using Tasman Saddle hut as a base come and climb many varied peaks in the area such as Mt Darwin , Mt Aylmer, Elle de Beaumont. Good intermediate grades of 2-3. Will be flying in/out. Climbing Expeditation Early May 2016 Denali 6,194 mtrs (MT McKinley), Alaska, USA Karstens Ridge/Muldrow Glacier Alaska Grade 3, Class 3-4 Terry Cole tezza.cole@yahoo.com.au; 0455 255 662 6 Climb one of the worlds great mountains via its original but less popular Muldrow glacier route. This is a private expeditation, taking expressions of interest only at early stage and final group will be selected on right commitment, personality and ability. Must complete a prior training climb. Are you up for this ultimate adventure.
Trip type Date Location Leader Party size limit Trip info
Multi Pitch Abseiling/Canyoning 15 - 16 Febuary 2014 Kangangra Boyd NP, near Oberon, NSW Terry Cole tezza.cole@yahoo.com.au; 0455 255 662 6 2 separate day trips, Kalang Falls & Danae Brook. Two awesome trips with big multiple drops down side of spectacular multiple waterfalls and scenery to blow you away, ropes supplied. Come and see why this area is renowned for the biggest canyons. Kalang is a dry trip but wetsuits needed for Danea Brook. Multi Pitch Trad Rock Climb 3rd May 2014 Blue Mountains NP, NSW Terry Cole tezza.cole@yahoo.com.au; 0455 255 662 6 Come and climb Shandy an airy wander up the west face of Boars Head, 3 star climb, grade 8, 3 pitch, 73 metres. The multiple abseils down to the start is awesome itself. Dont be fooled by the grade. Suited to people wanting to get into trad multi pitch climbing and learn the technics. Great fun day out not to be missed. Multi Pitch Trad Rock Climb 17th May 2014 Blue Mountains NP, NSW Terry Cole tezza.cole@yahoo.com.au; 0455 255 662 6 Come and climb Hocus Pocus an easy classic at the famous Mt Piddington. 5 star climb, grade 8, 3 pitch, 50 metres. Option to do harder climbs to 16 on same wall. Suited to both novices and more experienced climbers. Multi Pitch Trad Rock Climb 7 June 2014 Blue Mountains NP, NSW Terry Cole tezza.cole@yahoo.com.au; 0455 255 662 6 Come and climb Sweet Irish an awesome climb at MT Boyce. 3 star climb, grade 10, 2 pitch, 50 metres. Option to do harder climbs on same wall such as The Eyrie a 4 star climb, grade 12 and Another Mans Juliet a 4 star climb, grade 15. Both are great routes and bluey classics. Suited to both novices and experienced climbers.
Trip type Date Location Leader Party size limit Trip info
Trip type Date Location Leader Party size limit Trip info
Trip type Date Location Route Grade Leader Party size limit Trip info
Trip type Date Location Leader Party size limit Trip info
For any further info on trips please contact the relevant trip leader directly or if you would like to put a trip on please email the section trip organizer at australia@alpineclub.org.nz
Trip type Date Location Leader Party size limit Trip info
Coming Next
Ice Climbing Special Everything you need to know about ice climbing, gear, techniques and destinations from our own back yard to overseas hot spots. So sharpen those crampons and grab your tools.
Mountaineering Insurance What are our options for budding Australian Mountaineers and climbers clutching a passport. We look at the some of the best insures around. Will also be discusing the new NZAC Australian members insurance cover. Upcoming Trips We have some great varied section trips in the pipeline so check out the latest Upcoming Trip List which is on the NZAC Australian webpage, in the newsletter and e-mailed to members. If you would like to organise a trip with fellow members or Next deadline for submissions Febuary 28th. Have your say, let us know what you want to see in your newsletter or got a trip report that you would like published. Please e-mail us your ideas or submissions by the deadline.