JUNE, 1911.

PRICE 15 CENTS A COPY.

$1.50 A YEAR.

Vol. I.

Honolulu, Territory of Hawaii.

OUTDOOR NUMBER

A MIGHTY BLAST' AT PEARL HARBOR.

The Mid-Pacific Magazine

CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD
HOWARD M. BALLOU, Associate Editor VOLUME I NUMBER

CONTENTS FOR JUNE, 1911.

FRONTISPIECECreating Pearl Harbor

THE MOONLIGHT SONATA (A PoEM) Inside back cover By Agnes Crary Weaver

PEARL HARBOR

By Arthur Pierce Taylor 603

AMONG THE GLACIERS OF NEW ZEALAND By Charles H. Hitchcock, LL.D., of Dartmouth College 615
KAMEHAMEHA DAY

By Edwin Dekum 625

HAWAII FOR THE WHITE MAN

By Van Norden 629

635 643

VOLCANO DAYS IN SAMOA (Concluded) MARVELS OF THE UNDERGROUND By E. Rayment WATER SPORTS OF THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS By H. F. Alexander By John Arthur Fowler IN AND AROUND MANILA By Paul M. Clifford CRUISING IN HAWAII SPOKANEAN EXAMPLE

653
665

673 681
689 696

By August Wolf

HAWAII AS A SUMMER RESORT By Dr. A. Kamaaina 685

SABOCCOA Tale of the South Seas(Continued) EDITORIAL COMMENT

GUIDE BOOK AND ENCYCLOPEDIA

The Mid-Pacific Magazine
Published monthly by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. Printed by the Hawaiian Gazette Co., Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, Canada and Mexico $1.50 in advance. For all foreign countries add $1.00 for postage. Single copy, 15c. Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice. Permission is given to the press to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit IS given. Copyright 1911 by Alexander Hume Ford.

I: i DINGTHEGREAT DRY DOCK AT PEARL HARBOR

Uhe

MID - PACIFIC MAGAZINE

VOL. I.

JUNE, 1911.

No. 6.

ALBERT PIERCE TAYLOR

Pearl Harbor
BY

ALBERT PIERCE TAYLOR

Mr. Taylor is a Western man whose home is now in Hawaii, where for ten years he has been connected with the editorial force of the "Pacific Commercial Advertiser," of Honolulu. He has made a study of and is the recognized literary authority today on things pertaining to Pearl Harbor and the defenses of Hawaii. Although still a young man today, Albert Pierce Taylor was during the 1896 campaign assistant secretary of the National Silver Committee at Washington. Later he joined the Cuban revolutionists and was arrested by the Spanish, imprisoned at Havana by General Weyler and deported. In 1899, as a newspaper man he was aboard the
army transport Siam, off Luzon, that was almost engulfed in a typhoon, losing 371 out of 373 horses and mules. Mr. Taylor's graphic description of the disaster went around the world. For two years Mr. Taylor occupied the position of chief of detectives in Honolulu. In every way he is qualified to tell the story of Pearl Harbor and the fortifications of Hawaii as it should be told.THE EDITORS.

HEN the first shot was fired at Lexington, no greater message was ever conveyed around the world than the first shot which screamed and roared its way across the entrance to Pearl Harbor a few months ago, for the latter was a shot metaphorically fired across the bows of
the fleets of the powers, a grim notification to all governments that Uncle Sam

an Islands ; to stand sentinel in the middle of the Pacific Ocean as the single outpost two thousand miles from the American mainland, guarding the Pacific slope from possible invasion emanating from the western shores of the great ocean which Balboa proclaimed to the world centuries ago. That shot was the declaration of the war department of the
American republic that Honolulu now occupies an impregnable position amid batteries of high-powered guns, and that

is at last prepared to defend the Hawaii-

the prophecies of naval officers, the far603

604

THE MID-PACIFIC.

Pioneer Dredger at Work in the Channel.

sighted plans of statesmen, the hope of a nation and even the dreams of specula-

of the War of 1812 watching the test in

tors, are now being realized, and that the Island of Oahu is to be the actual Gibraltar of the United States, and Pearl Harbor the principal insular base in the Pacific Ocean. Thirteen years after the American flag

his capacity as general commanding the military district of Uawaii, and with him the Governor of the Territory, the
great gun was charged and fired. As the huge rifle settled back upon its
haunches, as it were, the test was declared successful, and the American flag

was raised over the former palace of

planted during the Spanish War upon

King Kalakaua in Honolulu the war department fired its first shot across the
broad sea entrance to Pearl Harbor. Stripped of all romantic elements involved in the discharge of the great projectile from the grim muzzle of the ponderous 12-inch rifle mounted in the fort-

the one, real, strategic base in the Pacific Ocean was at last capable of being
defended and invaders warded off. When the national lawmakers passed the joint resolution of annexation in congress in July, 1898, annexing the Ha-

they laid the basis of a future naval and ing a pathway beneath the waters of the military station which must now be rechannel so that superdreadnoughts may garded by the powers as the veritable steam into the Pearl Harbor lochs, the -"Key to the Pacific" and the "Gibraltar firing of the shot was merely the testing of America," and that in Pearl Harbor,

ress of Fort Kamehameha, followed by its rapid flight over the dredgers burrow-

waiian Islands to the United States, they may not have realized by that act that

and proving of one of the two 12-inch guns in the battery. It was a test wherein the soldier of romance Wts absent, and
the matter-of-fact soldier of today manipulated the mechanism of disappearing guns slippery with oil and grease ; a test where multiplication, division, subtraction and higher mathematics with a lead

where army and navy are working night and day to complete the greatest military
establishment under the American flag, is the very heart and center of armed protection to the Pacific coast of the American republic. It is a fact that at Pearl Harbor, less than ten miles from Honolulu, the federal government is creating the greatest fortified place in all the broad domain of Greater America. Although Pearl Harbor is to be a Gibraltar, it will be one

pencil played parts almost as important as the gun itself. In the presence of distinguished soldiers and civilians, with the
grand-nephew of the hero of Plattsburg

THE MID-PACIFIC.

605

Sinking the Piling to Surround False Crib Work. where there is not a hill, but is located in a desolate-looking country, rising barely a few feet above the hightide lands ; a vast reservation covered with outcroppings of flint-like coral and a dense growth of algaroba trees, with ponds which must be filled, and with no fresh water supply to be obtained anywhere on the reservation. Only where the army, on its reservation adjoining the outer edges of the channel of Pearl Harbor, has reared the fortification of Battery Selfridge for the two 12-inch guns, and that for the nest of mortars, are tangible evidences of the millions of dollars which Uncle Sam has been spending on the development of the great base. Yet, in the dredging alone which has been conducted at Pearl Harbor during the past ten years, but more particularly in the last three, the federal government has let a contract second only to that for the Panama Canal. In fact, dredging is by far the greatest item in the preparation for the coming Gibraltar, and next in importance from the navy standpoint is the construction of the naval drydock, the largest by far yet attempted on the Ocean of Oceans. Last, but not least, are the fortification works on the army reservation, work on which has been conducted so quietly that even Honolulu only realized the magnitude of the undertaking when the guns were fired from the half-finished fortifications three months ago. In swampy land, with uncertain foundations of coral and other stratas, which frequently opined into caverns, the army engineers bored for solid depths, and into the cavities finally determined as sites they poured concrete and cement and laid down tons of steel rods. Gradually above the surrounding ponds and underbrush they reared fortifications which are regarded as of the highest type, and upon the wide platforms the 12-inch guns were mounted. Half a mile away the en-

606

THE MID-PACIFIC. and upon the land, will be developed by army and navy officers. The navy yard is in process of formation, and is arising from a lantana-covered stretch of coral and lava, and upon those shores and beneath those waters Uncle Sam is prepared to spend from otwelve to twenty million dollars. The American people can little realize the vast enterprise under way at Pearl Harbor, nor can they appreciate the meaning of so much activity. To them
it is spending millions of dollars upon a little pin-dot of an island away out in the

gineers searched for another foundation and again poured cement and concrete into the great orifice and there they will mount a battery of 12-inch mortars, the finest guns of the type ever manufactured in American arsenals. The work is far from finished, and long after the coast artillerymen man the great batteries the engineers will have years of work filling ponds, grading up the reservation, installing a sea wall to run for miles from the breakers facing the open sea to a junction with the navy wall along the shores of the channel. The dredging work shows only upon the detail maps of the contractor and the navy department. Upon the surface of the bar, channel and harbor waters a fleet of dredgers is at work night and day ; but the long arms of these wonderful machines work beneath the waters and the work accomplished is intangible to the eye. But the army and navy officers know that the channel is becoming straighter as each month rolls by, and
where once only fishing canoes and later on yachts, entered from the open sea, and

middle of the Pacific Ocean, in a region so remote from their understanding that the expenditure spells folly. They little
realize that the Hawaiian Islands are a civilized group ; that the civilization is as advanced as it is in the region of

Faneuil Hall ; that Honolulu is a city as modern as Boston or San Francisco ; that the Islands form a self-governing territory of the United States ; and that the Islands are not an "insular possession" of the United States. They little realize that Oahu College was established in Ho-

then a tug and finally schooners, and later on the tiny gunboat Petrel steamed in and anchored in one of the lochs opposite the site of the present drydock, and where now a cruiser may pass, superdreadnoughts, in a year's time, may steam slowly in from the sea, crossing a "bar" with thirty-five feet of water at low tide flowing over, with a channel not less than thirty-five feet and oftentimes a hundred feet deep, and into the anchorage harbor where there is a uniform
depth of 35 to 40 feet. The contracts for these vast undertakings of channel and harbor deepening

nolulu about thirty years before Abraham Lincoln became president. A vast majority of the American people have no conception of the development of Honolulu harbor, where the splendid liners of the trans-Pacific trade call at stated intervals, where the wharf facilities sur-

pass those of many mainland cities, where the hotels are as modern as those of Washington, the street railway system unsurpassed in operation, where the former romantic town of the old monarchy
has disappeared before the march of progress and that stately buildings and magnificent residences are mainly to be seen in an island paradise which Mark Twain

and the excavation of the site for the drydock, have been entrusted to the Ha- immortalized as the "loveliest fleet of iswaiian Dredging Co., the head of which lands that lie anchored in any ocean." is a young man who was Dorn in the It is a progressive, modern, American Hawaiian Islands, and educated at community where Uncle Sam is spendHarvard. He has taken the chance ing so many millions that the great with Uncle Sam of making or losing American continent may be safe from inmillions. All the preparation for the vasion of a hostile power operating from development of the station is in'the hands a western shore of the Pacific Ocean. of this young civilian, but the results that When the American guns are manned are to show in the future, the works that and American warships are placed on will appear upon the surface of the water guard against hostile fleets, then what-

THE MID-PACIFIC.

607

The Great Clam-Shell. ever value the fortifications and naval base have will be given a practical demonstration, for out of this naval harbor may sometime issue fleets absolute in their power to intercept armed squadrons whose aim may be the long and inadequately protected Pacific slope, a harbor to which maimed and unsupplied American warships may retire for repairs, reinforcements and even the promond Head the army will maintain a chain of forts. At the mouth of Honolulu harbor will be a battery of small

guns ; at Fort De Russy; Waikiki, a battery of fourteen-inch guns ; while at Diamond Head a battery of eight mortars has been manned for the past year. Within the extinct crater of Diamond Head, Gibraltar-like galleries have been

tection of the guns mounted at the entrance.

constructed and in one of them an observatory has been established. The fire control for all the coast batteries has been
located in this gallery. From this station the fire of the guns of all the forts will be directed by the electric telegraph. The guns of Pearl Harbor cross those of Dia-

The Pearl Harbor fortifications when completed will occupy the great reservation known as Fort Kamehameha. The battery of 12-inch guns is named after

Lieutenant Selfridge, the young army officer killed at Fort Myer, during aviation practice. The mortar battery is located further back from the shore and closer to the naval reservation. Its great mortars will be capable of sending shells several miles out to sea, and each shell

mand Head and with the batteries between, make a veritable wall of steel. On July 4, 1912, the great Pearl Harbor drydock may be completed. When

the nation is celebrating Uncle Sam's birthday the greatest drydock under the American flag may be ready to have its

is supposed to drop from a great height squarely upon the deck of any approaching vessel on which the gun may have been trained. On the western shore of Pearl Harbor entrance another battery
of high-powered guns is to be erected when those now under construction are completed. From Pearl Harbor to Dia-

gates opened and to float in the largest of the American superdreadnoughts. That great event is only a year distant. The original contract called for a 620foot dock with a width of 104 feet and a
depth of fifty feet. Then came the knowledge that such a dock would be unsuited for the great battleships planned

608

THE MID-PACIFIC.

"Rising from Its Banks Are Thousands of Acres of Cane Fields."

for the navy. Congress acknowledged the necessity for a greater dock and authorized an additional appropriation. The completed dock will have a length of 820 feet, a width of 110 feet and a depth of thirty-five feet clear, although the excavation extends ' to fifty-five feet. The
original contract was for $1,750.000. Several hundred thousand dollars have

amount of cement and crushed rock will

be poured into the false crib work in the site until the excavated depth is reduced from fifty-five feet to the thirty-foot clear bottom required by the navy department. The drydock is the feature of greatest importance in the naval world. The construction of the drydock has more interest to the navy department than the erection of the various buildings which make

since been added to the contract price. When orders reached the contractor to suspend work on a 620-foot dock, several sailing ships were en route from Puget
Sound for Pearl Harbor carrying lumber all cut to required measurements for a 620-foot dock. All other orders were

tip a navy yard. The buildings and general machine shop equipment are incidental, while the drydock is essential. More than 200,000 barrels of cement will be required for the drydock work. With a thousand tons of crushed rock

held up and new ones sent in later for material of greater dimensions. When the new amended contract was in the hands of the contractors the dredgers delved deeper into the hard coral formation and at the close of the past year the excavation was practically ready

coming in daily from the quarries to be added to this cement, some conception of the vast undertaking may be obtained. Since the beginning of the year the contractors have been engaged in lowering false crib work into the drydock basin. This is formed of immense timbers bolt-

for the carpenters. Meanwhile, railroad ed together until they appear like the tracks had been built around the excava- stories of a frame building. Each story tion, while machine and tool shops, a is built upon the surface of the waters power house, and an electric station, in the dock and then weighted and lowstorehouses and offices sprung up, form- ered, and upon the timbers of the top ing the nucleus for an industrial center. of the "story's is erected the second story, A quarry was opened up in a gulch a and so on until all the stories are raised. few miles away in the mountains leading Each section is bulkheaded and the water up toward the brigade post of Leilehua. is pumped out and the concrete and ceThe contractors receive a thousand tons ment poured in. Each division of the of rock material every day, for a vast basin is treated in like manner until all

TI I F MID-PACIFIC.

609

Gouging Out Coral in the Drydock Site. sections and the gates are in when the structure may be regarded as in the completed stage. With the gates closed the giant pumps reduce the water within until the dock is dry. Two giant dredgers his obligation to the Government, through the successful efforts of the Hawaiian Dredging Company. Eight years later Mr. Dillingham, representing his company, landed the contract. Finally, President Dillingham of the

worked upon the dock excavation for the best part of a year. They encountered hard formation throughout but the contract was completed in the specified time.

Hawaiian Dredging Company succeeded in obtaining contracts for the bar, channel and harbor dredging, and also subcontracted on the drydock site. Seven dredgers are now working twenty-four hours a day in various parts of the channel. More than 2,500,000 cubic yards of

The dredging work in the channel was another story. Ten years ago a contractor undertook to dredge the bar to

a depth of thirty feet, and where a heavy swell prevails at all times. Occasionally a south wind sweeps in and
tears dredging machines from their moorings. The first dredger was lost in deep water. After twelve months of strenuous effort the contractor, without having accomplished anything,

material have been removed from the bar and inner sections and of this nearly a
million yards represents material from the bar alone. There are a few hundred thousand yards yet to be taken from the bar. The inner work is free from swells

turned over his contract to the Hawaiian Dredging Company, which was
then, as now, in the hands of W. F. Dillingham as president. The 180,000 cubic yards of sand was removed, and the failing contractor made good

and the scoops and gougers and screws of the machines are rapidly eating out
the projections, reefs, shoals and hillocks. Whole ends are taken off of peninsulas. On the inside sections the contractors have considerably less than 1,500,000 yards to remove. The work is

610 to be completed before the first of the coming year. Ten years ago the channel leading to the harbor was a tortuous thoroughfare of
water. Today it is navigable to large vessels. Surveys were made by various

THE MID-PACIFIC.

officers of the navy, but the first dredging work was not commenced until 1901, when the straightening of the channel was started. It will never be a straight course, but it will be "nearly straight." Pearl Harbor is about eight miles from Honolulu. The lochs open out like the
petals of the fleur-de-lis, and around their upper points a steam railroad line

from Honolulu passes on down into the sugar, pineapple and sisal plantation estates. A spur of the railroad extends to the gateway of the naval reservation. The Honolulu Rapid Transit & Land Company How Tons of Material Are Disposed Of. has secured a right of way from the terminus of its city lines and their families located on the reservato the reservation for the location of an tion, there is certain to be an influx of electric traction line, to be built whenever residents on the borders. a satisfactory permit can be obtained When the early navigators touched at from the secretary of war to cross the the Hawaiian Islands, then known as the Fort Shafter military reservation. The Sandwich Islands, they regarded Pearl construction of this line will connect the Harbor more favorably than the uncernaval station with all parts of the city of tain gap in the coast now known to comHonolulu. Twenty minutes is the maxi- merce as Honolulu harbor, and since demum time planned for traveling between veloped into one of the finest seaports in Honolulu and the station. By sea the the world. Had Honolulu been discovjourney will not take over forty minutes, ered a hundred years later, and the disand both methods of reaching the harbor coverers arrived here in steam vessels, it are interesting. The lochs are bordered is altogether likely, according to army by sugar plantations, and the peninsula, and naval engineers, that Pearl Harbor extending far down into one of the larg- would have been selected as the natural est waterways, is the site of many beauti- location for the commercial as well as
ful country villas of Honolulu residents. The lochs are favorite yachting and row-

ing places, and, with the establishment of the naval station with so many officers

the naval base, instead of Honolulu. American naval officers visiting here in

the early part of last century made notes on Pearl Harbor. Lieut. L. W. Curtis

THE MID-PACIFIC.

G11

The Work of the Diver Is No Sinecure

of the old American frigate Constitution, which visited here in 1846, wrote extensively on Pearl Harbor, submitting a report on fortifications for Honolulu to the Hon. G. P. Judd, one of the advisers of the Hawaiian king. He called particular attention to Pearl River, "the perfect security of its harbor, the excellence of its water, the perfect ease with which it can be made one of the finest places in
the Islands, all combining to make it a great consideration. While the harbor

In spite of the magnitude of the project the work is going ahead rapidly, and when the naval civil engineers and architects have completed the details of plans
for the machine shops, storehouses, administration buildings, barracks for men

and quarters for officers, and the splendid hospital which is promised, the buildings will be reared with astonishing rapidity, for the money is already available. The marine corps will commence the construction of barracks and quar-

was clearing out, fortifications could be ters for its men and officers this summer, built, troops could be drilled, the forts the plan of the corps being to maintain a might be garrisoned, government or pri- force of at least four hundred men. The Pearl Harbor policy of the govvate storehouses built and all the trade ' drawn there with perfect ease. The ernment has been endorsed generally amount of money necessary to be ex- throughout the United States, if the pended there will be but a feather in press may be taken as the spokesman for comparison with the almost incalculable the people. The majority of editors deamount of wealth that will open upon the clared in favor of the federal policy, but completion of these objects. Of what many of them fell into an error, popular importance would the consideration of on the mainland, in stating that Pearl an expenditure of one or two hundred Harbor came under the authority of the thousand dollars be in comparison with United States only in 1898, when the anthe immense results? None at all." So nexation of the Islands to the United Lieutenant Curtis dreamed and that States became a fact. The first treaty of dream is being realized by his successors reciprocity between the United States and Hawaii went into effect in 1876 durin the navy. The president of the United States ing President Grant's, administration. only last year announced a recommenda- Under the terms of this treaty the United tion to withdraw naval base construc- States Was granted no speCial privileges tion at Olongapo, Philippine Islands, and in Pearl Harbor, although the Hawaiian later the announcements was made from Government agreed that it "will not the navy department that a decision had lease or otherwise dispose of or create been reached to make Pearl Harbor the any lien upon any port, harbor or other principal naval base in the Pacific Ocean. territory * * * or grant any special The decision is being carried out rapidly. privilege or right of use to any other gov-

612

THE MID-PACIFIC. The military establishment is now a district with Brigadier-General Macomb, U. S. A., in command. The future establishment will be a department separate from all others, commanded by a majorgeneral. Pearl Harbor will be a magnificent rendezvous in the midtPacific for the American navy, and the wisdom of its creation, in the light of events making the Pacific Ocean the one in which world powers are competing for supremacy, becomes clearer and clearer the more one studies the situation. The Islands, and particularly Honolulu, the capital city, are the natural centers for converging steamship lines, whether from the Panama Canal, or the American, Australian
or Asiatic ports bordering upon the Pacific. The creation of a great naval base at Pearl Harbor, protected by fortresses,

ernment." In 1887 the treaty was renewed under the Cleveland administration for seven years and it was during the negotiations leading up to this renewal that the cession of Pearl Harbor to the United States figured as a condition. Since the signing of this treaty Pearl Harbor has been the subject of numerous reports, recommendations and suggestions by various officials. The value of the harbor has never been denied, but the work of actually making it a naval base was delayed year after year. In 1909 the secretary of war pronounced an urgent need for troops for station in the Hawaiian Islands. He estimated the cost of the naval base at $13,000,000. Congress had already appropriated $3,000,000 for the fortification work around
the naval base, much of which is now in evidence in the completed emplacements

at Fort Kamehameha. He has urged that large garrisons be stationed there. Oahu Island, on which Honolulu and Pearl Harbor are both located, has been developed by the war department until there are now four fortified places including Fort Ruger, Fort De Russy, Fort Armstrong and Fort Kamehameha, and two large army posts, including Fort
Shafter and Schofield Barracks, the latter at Leilehua, twenty miles from Honolulu. Originally a cavalry post for one regiment, the war department has

with the stationing of a powerful fleet in Hawaiian waters, means protection on an ample scale for the American mainland. Pearl Harbor will be a protection for billions in national values. It will add to the equipment of the great republic for the enterprises of peace as well as for the necessities of war. Pearl Harbor naval base makes an oversea attack upon the mainland almost an impossibility. Exclusive of the dredging of the bar, channel and harbor and the drydock,

Pearl Harbor station will represent an expenditure of about $5,000,000, and this is only half the cost of a modern dreadnought. The station is to be modernly equipped with the finest sewer, lighting, water and car systems. Cement retaining walls will be built along the shores of the harbor, and there will be wharves for the torpedo boats. The grounds will be beautified, and for this purpose eighteen thousand trees have been set out in a nursery to supply the roadways of the fantry, six companies of coast artillery, future model station. one regiment of cavalry, a regiment of Pearl Harbor occupies a site amid field artillery, a company of engineers, beautiful surroundings. Rising from its a company of the signal corps or about banks and extending far back into the 6000 men all told stationed here. mountains are tens of thousands of acres This force represents present plans, of sugar cane fields. The cane reaches but eventual plans call for garrisons on up the slopes of the Koolau range, the the Island of Oahu alone of 20,000 men. summits of which are almost impassible

planned it to become a great brigade post. There are now stationed at Schofield Barracks a regiment of cavalry, two battalions of infantry, and a battery of field artillery; at Fort Shafter, a battalion of infantry ; at Fort Ruger, two companies of coast artillery, and at Fort De Russy, a company of engineers. Four hundred marines occupy quarters in a temporary camp in the city, near the Honolulu naval station. The war department plans to have six regiments of in-

THE MID-PACIFIC.
to man, while on the other side are sheer precipices, physical features which have been taken cognizance of by the war and navy departments, for few landings can

>

613

freshment for our men-of-war, while protecting our commerce and other interests in these seas ?"

be effected by armed forces on the opposite side of the island. Upon the high plains in the rear of Pearl Harbor, in the midst of the greet pineapple plantations, is the cavalry post. The American frigate Potomac anchored off Honolulu harbor in July, 1832, almost the last Pacific Ocean group at which the big vessel called before continuing on its circumnavigation of the
globe. The story of that cruise includes two interesting chapters on the Hawaiian Islands. Of the destiny of these Islands

How prophetic ! This year Australia has sent its official representative to study the work at Pearl Harbor, his government having in view a plan to fortify the Southern Island Continent along the lines laid down for Hawaii. Australia sent word that she believed that the United States and Australia would always be on the same side in any conflict on the Pacific. The fortification of Australia will complete the circle of fortified lands about the big
pond and forever insure the peace of the Pacific and the remaining of Pacific fleets

the historian of the cruise, in a work published in 1835, said : "These Islands must always be places
of interest in the Pacific Ocean, lying, as they do between the tracks of vessels bound to China and the East Indies, from the Coast of California, and the whole of

in their home waters, which is the proper place for them. Oahu is to be fortified in a manner that will make it one of the greatest
fortresses in the world. Its armament will eclipse that of all other forts. Its

South America. These circumstances tend to Tender the Sandwich Islands of peculiar interest to the navigator of the
Pacific. * * * Vessels bound across the Pacific, now a track so common, can often find the means to repair the disasters of the seas, without being compelled to put back, perhaps thousands of

drydock will care for the greatest warships planned. Its garrisons will be the largest under the American flag. The American flag was planted on Hawaiian soil in 1898 because of military necessity arising out of the events in the Philippines. Uncle Sam is now prepared to defend the flag and the people of the Ha-

miles, or prosecute a voyage rendered dangerous by unforeseen events. During a war, what interest would not these Is
hold out to us, as sources of re-

waiian Islands, and with the shot which he fired across Pearl Harbor's entrance he declared to the world that he was on
guard in the Pacific.

Pearl Harbor.

614

Valley, Head of Lake Wakatipu,

Professor Hitchcock is seatei at the left.

Among the Glaciers of New Zealand

BY

CHARLES H. HITCHCOCK, LL.D.

Of Dartmouth College

HE glaciers of New Zealand are larger than those of

Switzerland and duplicate most of their peculiarities. Mt. Cook is like Mt. Blanc and Mt. Sefton corresponds to the Matterhorn.

but the former still retains in very respectable dimensions the ice streams of a corresponding cold period, evidently because the mountains are higher and sustain many tracts of perpetual snow. The glaciers are con-

Little exploration has been accomplished so far, and hence there is a large virgin area open for Alpine tourists. Inasmuch as the southern seasons alternate with ours, it may be convenient oftentimes to change the winter of our northern discontent to the glorious summer of the Southern Alps.
New Zealand is suggestive of the British Islands in respect to its physical characters, the one group being

fined to the middle (or south) principal island, 500 miles long, 140 wide
(on the average), with an area of 3500 square miles. The trend is about northeast and southwest. The higher peaks constitute a mountain range quite near the northwest coast and

parallel to it, with the maximum altitude of 12,349 feet at Mt. Cook (Aorangi). Only two other peaks exceed 11,000 feet, and thirteen extend above
10,000 feet. The moisture which by its abundant precipitation becomes snow, and

diametrically opposite to the other. New Zealand has been developed from oceanic puclei, while Great Britain was once part of the Continent of Europe. The latter sustained glaciers in the Ice Age, which are now extinct,

hardens into ice, comes from the northwest. As in Oahu, the rainfall is greatest on the side toward the
trade-winds, so on the northwest coast of New Zealand the precipitation{
615

616

THE MID-PACIFIC. more than one moraine in these narrow bays. This plateau, as much as a thousand feet higher than now, consisted of an-

measures 126 inches at Hokitiki and loses its principal bulk before coming to Christchurch on the southeast side, amounting to 25 inches. On the principle that the greater amount of moisture produces more abundant ice
masses the glaciers descend to 734 and 950 feet above the sea on the northwest side, terminate at 2500 feet

on the southeast side, and work performed by the ice is greatest on the northwest side. Near the northern end of the elevated range the ice terminates from 2700 to 3000 feet above the sea on the northwest side, and from 3000 to 3600 feet on the southeast side. The lower limit of the ice is not a contour line of equal altitude, because the glaciers descend below the natural
area of perpetual snow. Commencing at the south end a few glaciers are disposed upon 'the little

cient crystalline rocks and occupied about a fifth part of the present width of the island, with fjords upon both sides. As the action of the waves was greatest upon the west side, the sediments brought down to the seashore
would be carried out to deep water and disappear, while upon the other shore they would remain, clogging up the mouths of the valleys, and eventually adding broad strips of new-made land to the original plateau. The areas of the fjords would become fresh water lakes because of the obstructions placed across their mouths by the moraines and bars, and may be
recognized in the long series of "Cold Lakes" extending from Manapouri to

known high plateau from 5000 to 6000 feet above the sea, over which are scattered several peaks from 700 to 9000 feet altitude. This is the region of the sounds or fjords so well described by Alexander Hume Ford in the March number of this Magazine. These are distributed over two degrees of latitude, thirteen in number, upon the elevated northwest coast. The typical fjord is a narrow valley with nearly vertical walls, into which the
ocean extends sometimes a score of miles. The entrance from the sea is

Hawea, which are now elevated from 600 to 100 feet above the sea. An inspection of the map shows a row of these lakes parallel to the sounds, and even extending farther north, such as Manapouri, Te Anau, Wakatipu, Wanaka and Hawea. Wakatipu Lake, 50 miles long, has an area of 112 square miles and an elevation of 1016 feet. The moraine which dammed the valley is readily perceived at its lower end, as well as
several glaciated ledges, such as marked the movement of ice over the surface in northern latitudes. Soundings

shallower than the interior, say forty fathoms on the outside and more than a hundred fathoms inside, thus permitting the tourist steamers to penetrate the interiors of these linear harbors. The fjords are of glacial origin, and are therefore included as a part of the phenomena of glaciers, though not excluding rain action. When the plateau was more elevated than it is now, the glaciers plowed their way seaward, excavating the rocky floors
and transporting moraines to block up the entrances ; and doubtless the ocean waves, pushing landward, assisted in the deposition of the debris. Complete

prove the bottom of the lake to lie below the present level of the sea. Mountains rise more than 6000 feet upon either bank, upon which the glacialist can see the smoothing action of the ice for a third of the distance, while the summits are rough, disintegrated peaks like the Needles in Switzerland. The outlet has been shifted from the south end at Kingston to Queenstown, the head of the Kawaran River, which
unites with the Clutha after flowing for 28 miles. Enormous terraces of sand occur at the outlet and at the entrance of the Shotover River is 400

soundings may prove the presence of

feet thick. Dart River enters Lake

THE MID-PACIFIC.

617

View from Ben Lomond.

Wakatipu from the north. The part of the view showing white is not water but sand and gravel or quicksands, constituting the flood plain, perhaps not over two feet higher than the water, derived from the glaciers of Mt. Earnslaw, as shown in the distance, 9165 feet high. In the foreground may be seen examples of the New Zealand flax plant. Most of the rivers flowing from the glaciated region have brought down a similar mass of quicksand which renders them unfordable. Other streams are impassable because of their swift currents. Thus before the time of automobiles a whole day was lost in traveling from Fairlee to the Hermitage, because it was dangerous for the coach to ford the Tasman River. Near Queenstown on the east side of Lake Wakatipu is Ben Lomond, 5747 feet above the sea, a peak easily ascended and noted for the fine view seen from its summit, as shown in the photograph. In the distance are the higher sum2

mits with fields of snow. The nearer mountains illustrate the carving out of the valleys by stream erosion.Every
tributary has borne its part in the sculpturing of the hillsides, while the

clouds overhead are suggestive of the sources of the rainfall. Caves are found upon some of these slopes containing the bones of the Moa, a gigantic bird of the ostrich family,
now extinct. I have handled the drumstick of one of them from this region,

a yard in length, which would indicate a creature ten feet in height. With their powerful muscles they must have made little of climbing the loftiest of these mountains upon which they No less than 18 found their food. species of these birds have been described and preserved in our museums, the smallest one being of the size of our domestic fowls, and is still represented by the Kiwi, a feathered biped without wings, easily killed by dogs, and therefore destined to a speedy extinction. The bones of the Moa occur in the same layers with bits of char-

618

THE MID-PACIFIC.
insignificant when compared with the noise of the fall. The evening is the time to arrange for the excursions of

coal and the scanty relics of the original savages of the islands ; as if the aborigines, not the present Maoris,

satisfied their hunger with the flesh of this gigantic fowl.

The Glaciers. The fjord section merges into the region of the glaciers. Naturally they are scattered upon both flanks of the

the following day. For these trips and general accommodations the prices are very reasonable. The tariff for he first seven days is only ten shillings per diem ; after that time eight shillings. Guides for the glacier excursion fifteen shillings per diem for a single person, for five or more, six shillings

dominant range of mountains, where are also extensive fields of perpetual snow, constituting the gather ground
of the neve, as it gradually solidifies into ice. The culminating peaks extend along a line about a hundred miles in length, and are known as the

each. For the use of the huts 7s 6d per diem with provisions ; without food
two shillings ; but no charge for guests

Southern Alps. The Government realizes that the Alpine scenery is an important asset of
their possessions ,and encourage both their own -people and tourists from other lands to visit and explore the ice fields. Their surveyors map the

paying full rates at the Hermitage. There are small charges for the use of tent, sleeping bag, ice axe, rucsac, glasses, rope, water-bottle and lantern. For the special Alpine excursions the rates are higher. The Tasman is the largest of the glaciers. To reach it, one needs to cross the Hooker River in a wire cage,

highlands and study the movement of the glaciers. Excellent roads have
been built from the railways to reach the various scenic localities, where the traveler will find suitable hotel accommodations afforded at reasonable prices, with guides, horses and the

pulling himself across by a rope, while the horses may swim the stream beneath. The valley when reached presents to view a stretch of low, flat
sand a mile wide ; following it for two miles, we reach the wall of ice at the lower end of the glacier one hundred

Trails reach huts necessary outfits. built to serve as places of refuge for
those who venture upon dangerous routes of explorations. The central locality is near the meeting of three or four of the larger glaciersthe Tasman, Hooker and Muel-

feet high, from which issue vast volumes of cold water. Above the terminus the ice is covered by the same
gravelly debris as below, beginning to show an arrangement in lines five to eight in number, which are medial moraines. The ice does not reach the western bank, as the edge of it has been melted away. Six miles up from the wire bridge the glacier expands on the right with its eight moraines at the outlet of the Murchison valley, up which one must travel over a broad

ler at the elevation of 2510 feet and not far from the snow line. For thirty
miles the traveler has been approaching nearer and nearer to the Hermitage, the goal of his aspirations, hemmed in by the snow-clad mountains

adjacent, but protected from the strong winds in a sunny valley. His advent
comes near the close of the day, perhaps, and while adjusting himself to the new conditions, he hears the roar of the avalanches miles away upon the

expanse of rough debris for five miles before reaching the terminal wall of its glacier. The but built for the shelter of travelers shows itself twelve miles up the Tasman valley from the Hermitage, 3400 feet above the sea.

heights of Mt. Sefton. The area of the snow and ice moved seems very

Beyond this refuge horses are not used, and this is the starting point for

THE MID-PACIFIC.

619

Mt. Cook from the Hooker River. excursions up Mt. Cook and Alpine explorations. Near this but two lines of stakes have been driven into the ice across the glacier to determine the rate of motion. When firmly implanted, it is possible to measure the distance that each stake has moved during a definite period, as a day, week or month. The original line is restored by sighting from the stake driven into the ground on one side to the corresponding one opposite, and by direct measurement the distance each pole has been shifted shows the amount of movement. The movement here in the summer amounts to from ten to eighteen inches daily. This is greatest in the middle of the ice current. On the Mueller glacier the average daily rate ranged from 4.1 to 9.6 inches. The greatest amount of daily motion that has been recorded by accurate measurement is from 180 to 207 inches upon the Franz Joseph glacier, near its lower limit. Mr. Harper, one of the most indefatigable of the early observers, has summed up his observations for a series of years upon the recession of the New Zealand glaciers, "that at present they are not receding to any appreciable extent." The Spencer and Franz Joseph are retreating ; the Tasman is advancing rapidly; there is no change in the Fox, Mueller, Hooker and Burton, and no pronounced variation of the lower limits of the principal glaciers. Numerous monuments have been set up by the Government surveyors to record future changes. The Tasman is the largest of the New Zealand glaciers, measuring 18 miles in length, and has an area twice that of the Aletsch glacier in the Swiss Alps. Eight icy tributaries contribute to its volume from the west side, including Mt. Cook, the general course of the valley being to the south ; Mts. Elie de Beaumont and Darwin, each about 10,000 feet high, lie on the oppostie sides of its beginning. Two and a half miles from its source

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THE MID-PACIFIC.

Mt. Darwin and Tasman Glacier. the glacier has descended to 6136 feet, and opposite the- Hochstetter tributary the surface falls to 4178 feet, and begins to be covered by morainic debris, As many as eight of these lines of debris were noted in the description of the lower Tasman, and these moraines indicate the number of tributaries that

continuous and gradually broadening from here to the terminal wall. Glacialists have much to say of regelation as a feature of ice movement. When ice is fractured and the pieces are wet, they will soon be cemented to2011er again as firmly as at first, and

have contributed to the formation of the glacier.

There should also be accumulations of glacial debris in the hollows beneath the ice. These are not noticed till after the glacier has disappeared

will not break necessarily along the original faces of cleavage. Ice may be
by crushing and rearrangement of the fragments. Statues, spheres and any

by melting. If some clayey material is present, the weight of the ice will cause the fragments to cohere into a
compact hardpan, to which the name of "till" has been applied in Scotland
and the mainland. It has scarcely been

moulded to any desired shape

other solids may be manufactured in

this way. The ice of tributaries may unite with the main glaciers or fill tip
irregularities in the floors of the valleys. As most of the material of the moraines falls from the bordering hillsides, it lies upon the surface of the ice, and when two glaciers unite the

recognized in New Zealand. . The principle of regelation is illustrated on a large scale in the view of the Hochstetter glacier. This mass
of ice starts from the perpetual snow below the clouds between Mts. Cook and Haast ; is joined by two smaller tributaries on the left, and falls over a cliff 2000 feet deep to rest upon the asman. The multitude of blocks displayed on the incline are reunited by

moraine of the tributary joins that of the main trunk, and the two combined continue indefinitely down the slope.

THE MID-PACIFIC.

t)2 1

Mueller Glacier.
regelation at its base, join the Tasman and continue the flow towards the sea till the heat of the lower levels con-

and one that offers fine views of Mt.

Cook. In the dark foreground may be seen what is called a "gravel cone," or

a mass of ice covered with dirt. When verts the ice into water. The Hermitage fronts the terminal a flat rock rests upon the ice, melting moraine of the Mueller glacier, a mass takes place beneath around the edges of rough debris 250 feet high. This of the stone. This process may be conglacier is seven miles long, coming tinued until there is exhibited a table from the south. The lower half is with its pedestal of ice, known in litcovered with moraine material, a part erature as a "glacier table." This reof which may be seen upon the photo- mains till the central pedestal is engraph, arranged in the medial lines tirely melted, and the stone resumes five in number. This view is very its original position. Now, if instead similar to one that has done duty in of a block of stone there is a mass of geological text books for the past sev- earth, the melting beneath will be manenty years in the way of illustrating ifested near the edge, and as fast as it the character and distribution of the proceeds dirt will fall down upon the moraine bands. It is from the Viesch outside, and eventually there will apglacier in the Swiss Alps, originally pear a conical mass of ice covered with drawn by that pioneer in glacial study, gravel-like debris. That it is not simply a pile if dirt may be demonstrated Louis Agassiz. The Mueller moraine blocks the by driving your axe into it, when the course of the Hooker glacier, as you interior ice will be displayed. The surface of the glacier may be a leave the Hermitage for a trip up this valley, the easiest of all excursions, soft ice, or bristle with rough pinnacles

622

THE MID-PACIFIC.

Tasman Glacier. called "seracs," produced by an unequal ablation or melting. These prominences are often impassable in Travelers call it the Mt. Cook lily. The glaciers upon the northwest slope of the backbone of the island are not visited so much as the Tasman and its tributaries. Of these, the Franz Joseph has been considerably explored. Highly elevated snow masses diverge from its source opposite Mt. Elie de Beaumont at the head of the Tasman, and these are confluent with six glaciers arranged like an amphi-

the higher regions because of their

size. Another phenomenon well shown on the Hooker glacier is the "ribbon structure" divisional planes analogous to the cleavage of slate, both induced by pressure. The transparency of the ice renders these lines conspicuous. They may be seen in our Franz Joseph glacier illustration in a large hummock below the proper end of the ice. In the Hooker valley I found a species of "Edelweiss," closely allied to

theater adjacent to the beginning of

the Fox glacier. The upper expanded portion is over seven miles long and three broad. The lower half is more like a ribbon, much narrower. Its area

this plant so highly prized in Switzerland, and on the road to extinction

there. In New Zealand its range is from 3000 to 6000 feet. In general the Swiss Alpine flora is the more luxuriant. The most showy flower here is

is only second to that of the Tasman. It descends 8000 feet in eight miles,
reaching the level of 928 feet at the source of Waiho River. Our photograph shows a likeness to the average glaciers of the East. An immense

a "Ranunculus," a white buttercup, whose petals spread as much as four

inches. They grow in clumps, hundreds of specimens in a single patch.

"bergschrund" bordering its upper section renders traveling across it very uncomfortable. The "bergschrund"
or mountain gap is an immense cre-

THE MID-PACIFIC.

623

Franz Joseph Glacier. vasse near the source of the glacier linear dimensions, and "there were

where the ice has slid from the underlying border. The Fox glacier arises from the western slopes of Mt. Tasman and
Haidinger, is ten miles long, with a Its remarkable neve at its source.

These boulders others still larger." have been pushed down the valley for unknown distancesand they are larger than any that have been described in any glaciated district elsewhere. Such comparisons are liable

principal tributary is the Victoria glacier, whose terminus is a precipice 1000 feet high. Moraines 1500 feet high skirt the lower part of the valley. The end of the Fox is 756 feet above the sea, being the lowest down of all

to correction ; but until some one can present better information than is now available, the palm for the greatest blocks of stone that have been moved by ice must be awarded to the New Zealand glaciers. The Mecca of the professional althe glaciers. From it springs Cook River, "a wide, unsightly stretch of pinist is the ascent of Mt. Cook, and shingle flats covered with large masses like the climb of Mt. Blanc is open to -of drift timber, through which the "princes, Americans and fools." As water meanders in numberless chan- seen from the Hooker valley, the dark nels." Near the lower end there is a foreground consists of debris overlyfine hot spring and a boulder thirty ing ice. The white patches upon the feet high and 350 in circumference. mountains are snow rather than ice. Tony's rock, lower down, is 156 feet It would seem as if the ascent would high and 268 feet in diameter. In the be feasible from this valley. The sucCopland valley, Fitzgerald measured cessful attempts have been made from a boulder 100 by 200 by 300 feet in the Ball Hut on the Tasman, first pro-

624

THE MID-PACIFIC. been left near the Hochstetter glacier. Finding the weather unusually favorable, Zurbriggen made the ascent
alone the last part of the way, accomplishing the task in fourteen hours from the Hochstetter bivouac. He advises the choice of this route to future explorers, believing it to be the

ceeding northerly to pass around the Hochstetter glacier upon its foundation rock, and thence due south over
land and glacier, The first ascent was made by Rev. W. S. Green in 1882, who turned back only a few feet from the summit because of the approach

of night. Next came Mr. Fyfe in 1892, and later Zurbriggen, the Swiss guide, in 1895, in the employ of E. A. Fitzgerald.
Zurbriggen is well known from his employment by various explorers in

shortest, easiest and sa&st.

;Alpinist climbers travel in groups, provided with alpine stocks, ice axes, ropes and hobnailed shoes. The rope is attached to all the party, so that if

the Himalayas, South America, and in the celebrated trip up Mt. St. Elias by Prince Amadeo of Savoy. He is well skilled in the art of alpine travel, quite
impetuous, capable of swearing volubly in three languages, and constantly meeting with accidents. Fitzgerald concentrated his efforts upon traversing new routes and ascending new

one loses his footing he will be prevented from slipping to destruction by the strength of his companions. When a party is descending a steep
mountain side covered with snow, they may resort to "glissading," a species of alpine toboganing. All stand erect, connected by the rope, and regulate

peaks, hence did not attempt the ascent of Mt. Cook. He had finished his
work for the season and left Zurbriggen to collect various articles that had

their downward speed with alpen stocks. It does not take long to descend as far as the conditions will permit.

" Glissading " Southern Alps.

Kamehameha Day
BY

EDWIN DEKUM
N the Territory of Hawaii; the Governor appointed by a Republican President, proclaims the birthday of a king as a legal holiday. In Hawaii, to whites and Hawaiians alike, Kamehameha First is the hero most revered. It is his birthday, the 11th of June, that is a legal holiday. This day in Hawaii has become an American holiday when business houses and public schools are closed in respect to Kamehameha the Great, the Napoleon of the Pacific, as he is called, who from chiefdom on the big island of Hawaii arose to the greatest power ever achieved by any Polynesian. He died king and conqueror of all the Hawaiian Islands. School children of Hawaii are never permitted to forget the greatness of Kamehameha I. On every one of the Islands there are schools, colleges or kindergartens named in honor of the first Hawaiian monarch. On the public square before the old palace, now the territorialcapitol, in Honolulu, is the one prominent monument in the Hawaiian Islands. Kamehameha stands in heroic size, in the feather robes of state, his right hand ex625

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THE MID-PACIFIC.

Queen Liliuokalani and Princess Kalanianaole. tended appealing toward the once royal

palace where two score of his race now help to make laws for whites, Japanese and natives. Before the statue of Kamehameha for hours every day an ancient half-breed Hawaiian does his devotions. For years he has prayed to the monarch of the ancient regime and will

Kohala, Hawaii. When he was a young man he distinguished himself in campaigns as a brave and skillful warrior. The Hawaiian Islands were discovered
by Captain Cook at the time Kamehameha was engaged in wars on the Island of Maui. Kamehameha married Kaahumanu. During Vancouver's third visit

do so daily until he dies. On the great anniversary the native clubs and societies march in full regalia to the palace square
and with much ceremony decorate the monument of their beloved king with leis, or ropes of flowers. Ancient rites

are revived for the day, and the monarchial party is in its element for the once.
The stranger in Hawaii may know little or nothing of Karnehameha I, but he is the idol of every schoolboy and girl on the Islands. Most of the Hawaiian

to the Islands, he went to Hilo, where Kamehameha was. He was treated with great hospitality and he presented Kamehameha with several sheep and cattle, and laid a tabu on them for ten years. Kamehameha First died at the age of eighty-two. He had reigned high both mentally and morally. Kamehameha's bones were hidden in a cave in North
Kona and their place of concealment has never been revealed." In the same little school magazine another pupil of tender years contributes a

public schools publish monthly magazines, to which the pupils are the only contributors. From the "Matte Lehua,"
or organ of the Kaahumanu School, I copy the following composition on Hawaii's greatest monarch, written by a little girl of the Islands.

eulogy to Kamehameha's wife, Kaahumanu, who after the death of the old heathen monarch embraced Christianity
and destroyed the old gods of her people. There are probably very old persons living still in Hawaii who were born be-

"Kamehameha the First was born one hundred and seventy-one years ago in

fore Kamehameha I died. In the lifetime of these men the Islands have become Christianized and today the most

THE MID-PACIFIC.

b 27

Native Canoe Races.

modern schools teach that Kamchameha was a great warrior and vie with one another in the elaborate celebration of his birthday, and only those who have attended festivities at a Hawaiian school

There is one sport for ladies that should never be omitted from the events of Kamehameha DayPa-u riding. It is doubtful if the ancient monarch ever

can appreciate fully what this means.

The native canoe races for the Governor's cup and the yacht races are the features of the day, but it seems probable that rather than diminishing, the festivities that attend Kamehameha Day

saw a pa-u race, but the ex-queen of today is very fond of watching this form of sport and the ex-secretary is never
so happy as when starting the horses with their fair jockeys astride, for the Hawaiian woman rides astride, and her

will increase. The Outrigger Canoe Club in Honolulu has set apart that day
for the revival of every kind of surfing sport known to the old Hawaiians, and it is possible that the famous mountain sleding sports of old Hawaii will also be

pa-u costume is the pride of her life and wardrobe. This dress is often made of a bolt of bright calico wrapped most
skillfully about the rider with the ends trailing to the winds or hanging from the rider's feet almost to the ground. Often the pa-u habit is tailor-made, and

revived on Kamehameha Day. Moreover, Hawaii being a summer as well as -a winter resort, the thermometer never
registering above 85 degrees in June or July, a Hawaiian carnival held on the 11th of June is not improbable as one of

then the skirt is fuller and heavier, but

its ends still come below the feet of the rider and trail behind the horse in the
breeze. Some of the old native pa-u clothes are radiant in the extreme, and

the big annual events of the future in the Territory, for both old residents and new corners enjoy nothing more than a revival of old Hawaii. It was a Hawaiian
grass house in the last Floral Parade that caught the eye of the visitors from the mainland and they voted it the first prize. This should determine the people of Honolulu either to give their

even today a body of pa-u riders coming down the course forms one of the most

picturesque and unique features imaginable. There has been a recent revival of pa -u riding in Hawaii and it is doubtful
if the old custom will ever go out while there are native women alive to celebrate
Kamehameha Day. The Luau ends the festivities on Kamehameha Day. Everyone, white or na-

Floral Parades on Washington's birthday a more native cast in future, or arrange for Kamehameha Day a purely Hawaiian carnival, to which the world about the Pacific would be invited.

tive, becomes acquainted with the luau or native feast, in Hawaii. Usually, on Kamehameha Day, it begins at noon and ends at midnight or later. If a mixed

628

THE MID-PACIFIC.
and many a native saves up all the year to be able fitly to celebrate the great king's natal day. Patriotic songs are sung, American and Hawaiian ; then

crowd is to be present, and sometimes there are hundreds, chairs are provided, but at most of the native luaus the feast is spread upon banana or ti leaves spread

upon the green sward. The fish is baked in ti leaves, and the royal pink poi served
in calabashes ; for the natives there are live shrimps, and for the haole (or white man) delightful boiled crayfish. Pig baked in earthen ovens is the great dish of the occasion. A luau is a more expensive affair than an ordinary banquet,

near the end "Aloha Oe" (love to you) composed by Queen Liliuokalani, after that the national hymn, "Hawaii Ponoi,"
then everyone goes home for on Kamehameha Day no one will sing any other song after the national Hawaiian anthem has been rendered.

Jack London

L. A. Thurston

J. P. Cookc

Hawaii for the White Man

BY

VAN NORDEN
AWAII is the one land within the tropics created by Nature for the white man. Its Hackfeld, of Germany, came to Hawaii a poor lad, worked hard, and became a millionaire. Theo. H. Davies, an humble English boy, came in poverty to

temperature is that of the temperate zone, the thermometer never rising above 85 degrees. Every part of
Hawaii is cooler in summer than is any part of New York State. In

Honolulu ; lived there long enough to establish the house of Theo. H. Davies & Co., still the leading foreign house in
Hawaii ; sent his sons to Oxford to receive their education, and left his children, it is said, some $25,000,000. Hawaii is proud of her self -made men,

summer time snow may still be found in the crevasses of the high mountains of Hawaii. Men of almost every northern European country have come to Hawaii as common day laborers and have remained in perfect health and attained splen-

wtho are proud that they are self-made. The Castle brothers, born in Hawaii,
speak with pride that they worked their way through college. In fact, all the sons of the self-made men of Hawaii are proud of the splendid manhood of their

did wealth while working there with an energy and spirit that is not surpassed even by the business men of New York, who, by the way, can work but nine months of the year owing to the excessive summer heat, a heat that does not exist in Hawaii to enervate and distract.

fathers, and boast of having sprung from men. The climate of Hawaii breeds men, who send their sons to Yale and Harvard to lead there in the intercollegiate athletic sports of America. You need never fear in Hawaii to allude to the once poverty and hard work
629

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THE MID-PACIFIC.
ways ready to give a helping hand. B. F. Dillingham, the railway magnate, who has built, or is still building, belt line railways around each of the

of a rich citizen's father ; he is proud of that origin, and talks grandfather's struggles to his son as vigorously as he

preaches and instils a love and patriotism for the American flag in his offspring. Hawaii, our island Territory, is even
today the land of opportunity for the energetic white man. There are probably more self-made millionaires resid

several islands, landed in Honolulu from a ship on which he was a sailor. Today
he is an elderly man in splendid health and one of the wealthiest men to be found in Hawaii. His son, Walter, may yet make his own millions ; he is now

ing in Honolulu than in any city of twice its size on the mainland. New me El are entering the field, the government is sending thousands of men to man the
greatest fortifications the world has known that must be built by white labor, new industries are springing up, creating new men of wealth, and those who have made their millions are retiring to enjoy life under the most ideal condi-

dredging Pearl Harbor for Uncle Sam and building there the largest drydock in the world.
Native Hawaiians are also among the men of wealth in Honolulu. Col. Sam Parkerpart Hawaiianowns and conducts the largest ranch in the islands. Royalty is also responsible for the foundation of many a white man's wealth in Hawaii. It was the friendship of King

tions imaginable. The men of Hawaii who have created opportunities for themselves create opportunities for others. The late Alexander Young, the many-time millionaire of Honolulu, came to Hawaii a poor man, worked in the Honolulu Iron
Works, which now makes sugar machinery to be shipped to every quarter of the globe ; retired from hard labor, and built as his monument a hotel that is equal to any in appointment found in

David Kalakaua that gave Allan Herbert, a Swedish immigrant to Hawaii, his first impetus toward the golden goal.
Herbert made his wealth as manager of the King's Royal Hawaiian Hotel. Her-

bert entertains royally all whose income is less than twenty-five dollars a week ; for such he kept for many years open
houseor palaceat his country place in the mountains near the end of the car line. It's a way they have in Hawaii. Sam Dlamon, who came to Hawaii with

London or New York and with a roof garden more spacious than any on the continent. He was content that he lost
a million maintaining this public place, for it is a credit to Alexander Young and to Honolulu. Its building set a new pace, and the business city of wood was

missionary intent, drifted into the banking business instead, and accumulated millions, spends fifty thousand a year
maintaining a public polo and golf grounds, and he himself presides over the Saturday afternoon teas to which the

practically rebuilt in stone and marble. Many years ago three young mechanics arrived in Honoluluthe McCandless brothers. Today the McCandless block is the finest and largest business building in the Territory. The Mc-

public is invited. In Hawaii coffee and pineapples are known as the poor man's crops, yet
pineapples create rich men in these islands, and if the Louisson brothers win out with their vast coffee estates, they also will enter this class. A tariff, or even a small bounty on coffee, would

Candlesses made their millions boring artesian wells in Hawaii, thus causing thousands of tons of sugar cane to
be grown where no blade of grass had ever before sprouted. Today these three brothers, scarce past middle ages, have

produce another crop of millionaires in Hawaii, and doubtless in time the lands
above the cane belt, adapted for coffee growing, would export their $40,000,000 worth of product annually, as do the cane fields, and as in time doubtless will

retired from active business and are al-

THE MID-PACIFIC.

631

The Old University Club Grounds, Honolulu. the pineapple plantations. Hawaii holds in her soil more wealth than does any country of equal area in all the world. High salaries are paid to men of ability. Manager Renton, of the Ewa plantation, for instance, draws a Senatot's salary. There is always room in Hawaii for the man at top. Bright reporters from the mainland have quickly become men of wealth and leading citizens. Charles R. Frazier is head of the biggest advertising firm in Hawaii ; Ed. Towse, president of one of the largest printing establishments ; the Warren boys, all under thirty, and once good newspaper men, own the largest photo supply business in the islands, and their own autos, and so it goes. Captain Matson, a poor sailor lad of some years back, is now head of the Matson S. S. Co., with boats that cost a million, plying to Honolulu. He evinced a desire to help Hawaii, and every man in Hawaii stretched out his hand to help him. Hawaii is today the land of opportunity for the quick, courageous white man, and every one, from President Taft down, wishes to see it conquered for and by Anglo-Saxon Americans. A writer of some note has prompted the theory that the third generation of whites born in Hawaii must show every sign of deterioration, too indolent and apathetic to make a showing in competition with the new arrival. A theory that, in the belief that Hawaii was indeed tropical, I too was prepared to accept, and on the third day after my ar. rival I quoted the supposedly scientific gentleman, and in the presence of several of the leading citizens of Honolulu. One of them spoke on the subject for himself and comrades fully, as folows : "It's that kind of mischievous nonsense that makes me wonder, at times, where the intellectual advantage lies in being a mainland scientist. We are all second and third generation men at this table. Do we look as though we needed any incentive to work, or as though we

632

THE MID-PACIFIC. versity. Club, attended by the Harvard and Yale men of the city, and when the

cable announces which has won, the feast is paid for by the graduates of the
losing college. There are five thousand Anglo-Saxon whites in Honolulu, and about six hundred of them own automobiles. Most

of these automobilists are kamaainas (born on the islands), many of them

are, of course, members of the University Club, and they are mostly men who earned the money that paid for the machines. Men who overthrew the

The McCandless Block. would live without workiqg? I'll warrant that the business men of Honolulu are more active than the business men of any other city in the world. Most of

monarchy, made Hawaii a Republic, governed it as such, and finally turned it over to the United States, lunch here
daily, as do the high officials of the territorial government and Federal courts. They believe that Hawaii is the white man's paradise. J. P. Cooke, still in his early thirties,

us own homes on the mountain tops, and some of us climb up to them for exercise.
The mistake the uninformed make is in believing that Hawaii is tropical because she is within the tropics, barely within. I wear in Honolulu the same clothing I

is a third generation man. Yet, born without wealth, he is already manager

of the largest sugar plantation and business in the islands, and is practically the head of the Republican party in Hawaii, although the chairman in the last campaign was another Anglo-Saxon,

would wear in New York City or Washington in the fall or spring months. We never suffer from the heat as you do on
the continent, there has never been a case of sunstroke in Hawaii, and I don't believe there ever will be one. We are both a summer and winter resort, and our men are energetic enough to raise

born in the islands, A. L. C. Atkinson, acting Governor of Hawaii at 33, and

there are those who really believe that the climate enervates. James B. Castle is another of the little coterie of those born in the islands who risked his neck to make Hawaii a

and export $45,000,000 worth of Hawaiian products annually. Glance around

you at some of our second and third generation men, and note if they are intellectually or physically the inferior of any newcomer."

Republic, and appeared every season at Washington to demand annexation.

Castle would be a big man anywhere, and would anywhere tell you you were

I did glance around ; it was at the University Club, an organization of

some three hundred college-bred men, the greater number of whom, I believe, were born in Hawaii. Years ago California and the West sent their youth to be educated in the

foolish if you uttered such a suggestion in his presence. It was James B. Castle who risked his all to prove on his Ewa plantation that the artesian well could
be bored that would revolutionize sugar culture in Hawaii and make the land tenfold more productive. It was not long before he saw Ewa paying 60 per cent, annually on the money invested. He wished to do something big for his native city, and he did. Mortgaging every iota of his property, he raised the money that gave Honolulu the most

schools and colleges of Hawaii, and Hawaii sent wheat and fruit to Californians.
Nowadays there is an annual banquet on regatta day at the Honolulu Uni-

THE MID-PACIFIC.

633

Jack London and a Hawaiian Pineapple King.

perfect and up-to-date electric railway system in the worldhe has just sold out his interests in this, has started the first commercial cocoanut plantation in Hawaii, has set out numberless acres in rubber plants, and has taken up the consolidation of the pineapple interests to fight for recognition of Hawaiian products on the mainland. Sidney M. Ballow visited own party. the islands about the same time, and has

been Judge of the Supreme Court and president of the University Club. Examples of the malihini (newcomer)
leaping to the front, if it's in him, at a bound, might be repeated a hundred times. Frank Thompson, lawyer, from Duluth, has in a very few years not only

A few years ago Robert Shingle came as a reporter on an afternoon paper ;

today he is president of a big trust company and one of the leading business men of the islands. Richard H. Trent, a Democrat and a printer from Tennessee, has been in Hawaii for half a decade ; he came without capital, is today head of his own trust company, and was up to the beginning of this year county treasurer, elected again and again by Republicans over the candidate of their 3

become a leading man in Hawaii, but has demonstrated to Orientals and Anglo-Saxons alike that the white man can

establish retail business houses and beat the Oriental at his own game. About the same time that James B. Castle was experimenting with Hawaii for the American small farmer, James D. Dole, also a newcomer, took up some waste lands mountainward of the Ewa plantation. That bit of waste land is now the largest and most lucrative pine-

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THE MID-PACIFIC.
Slav and Latin from Europe to till the cane fields. There is a sentiment that the white American farmer should bk introduced instead of the olive races

apple field in the world, rows of pines six miles in length ; white families still work there, but alas ! the proximity of the Oriental was too tempting, yellow

labor was employed, the ideal gave way to the practical, interests were pooled, a
stock company was organized. There is no prejudice against the newcomer, not even in politics. Marston Campbell ran over to the islands from California some ten years ago to complete, in three months, an engineering contract. He is now Superintendent of Public Works, Land Commissioner, and Surveyor General of Hawaii. A dozen other former Californians hold high government positions. Even the business women are welcomed. Anna

from Southern Europe. Men of millions are moving to Hawaii to build palatial villas for their summer or winter residences. The national government is spending countless millions fortifying and garrisoning Hawaii, our Pacific out-

post. Honolulu is at the commercial crossroads of the great oceansoon the Panama Canal will bring her added importance. Here is the business center where Occident and Orient meet ; it is for the white man in America to say

Kearns came from New Zealand and preached "business" for women. She
contracted with her neighbors for the fruits growing almost wild on the premises, established a jam and preserve factory, made her goods known from Sydney to New York, then offered to let

whether or not the opportunities, but beginning to open up, shall ripen and fall
into his hands, or into those of the alien. Hawaii is rich in a hundred ways with opportunities for the man of courage or capital. She invites the white man to a land where the extremes of winter and summer are unknown and where the white man may work out doors every

men in on the ground floor, and the fact that she was once a malihini in nowise
affects her status as the leading business woman of Hawaii. There is a fight on in Hawaii today to people the islands with the white man. Millions are to be spent bringing the

day of the year if he will. There has never been a case of sunstroke in Hawaii ; Hawaii was created as the white man's paradise in the tropics, and it will pay the white man to come to Hawaii only he must bring backbone, not wishbone, with him.

JAMES S. McCANDLESS, Illustrious Potentate Aloha Temple.

A. A, O. N. M. S. of North America.

FRED A. HINES, Imperial Potentate

The Beginning.

Volcano Days in Samoa

The Record of a Journey to Earth's
Most Active Crater
( Concluded)

T WAS sometime before either of us recovered our breath, and even then there was a burning sensation in

neath, the beginning of the great tunnel that drains the crater into the sea. Half an hour after I had clambered back across the widening breach, with a roar

the lungs that remained. Now I followed the almost perpendicular slopes, just
below the rim of the crater, dashing up now and then for a momentary view. Near the side of the crater toward the sea we found ourselves among hundreds of crevices from

of thund r my platform slid into the molten sea, which only demonstrates that there is a difference in volcanoes.
A little farther on some daring scientist had formed of loose slabs of lava a three-sided hut, above which a flooring of poles had been placed as a roof. There, not six feet from the edge of the waves and geysers of fire, above the roar of the molten torrent, perpendicularly below, I determined to spend the night, and sleep, if possible. Taking advantage of a favorable gust of wind, I gained the little observatory, and now the fumes of sulphur that arose passed safely over my head. Breathing was laborious only at times, and then not oppressively so. I drew out my note-book and wrote for an hour, then the wind changed. I was compelled to leave the crater somewhat hurriedly. After crouching in my but for some time, I braved the

which rose suffocating fumes. Once the only escape seemed upward,
then a leap of several feet downward to a mass of rotten lava that had broken away and was gradually working down

to the devouring pit ; but Kakina had pointed out to me a landslide on the 'edge of Halemaumau. It had begun while he stood upon its edge gazing down into the then active fires below. I
had his assurance that the descent was so gradual as to be imperceptible, so in another moment I was crouching on the edge of this loosened platform, gazing

down at a Niagara of fire pouring into a great cavern in the rocks directly be-

sulphur fumes and crept out to watch

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awoke, picked up the one cocoanut in our basketa native had given it to him on the roadopened it and handed it
to me. I placed it to my lips. Oh, the joy of that drink. I restrained my mad

desire to consume every drop, and handed it back. There was a s loud gurgling sound as my Samoan boy threw his head back, and that was all. We had our
"kiki" (breakfast), struck camp, and at sunrise were clambering over the lava to the crater, which we attacked now from a different point. We could now see by the light of day that the lava at

the base of the cone was rugged. There

Building New Coast Line. the ever-turbulent lake, but the wind had changed its direction so that such a wall 'was but one fountain of rock, such as are common about Kilauea, but we passed numerous caves exploded from the lava, and many long tunnels, the arches of some so evenly cracked in cubes that it was difficult to realize that Nature

of sulphur smoke rose up against me that I was compelled to flee precipitately

downhill, my Samoan boy following my example. We were following the direction of the tunnel as we fled, and through cracks and crevices rose a terrific heatand my boy was barefooted

was the master mason, and that the bricks were not made and laid by human hands. It was my intention to walk
around the edge of the crater, so we clambered up to the high overhanging crags of rotten lava and began our circular journey. The ever-restless sea of

how he ever got over the jagged lava without burning and lacerating his feet is beyond my comprehension. I do know
that more than once we fell down together, strangling for breaththat once I ran back between clouds of sulphurous vapor to drag him away all but uncon-

fire seemed little different by day than by night, the glare was equally dazzling
and the colors undiminished. As we passed our "Hale Kakina" sign, I took the pole from the rocks and carried it on toward the stone but ; we approached

scious, and more than once he did the same office for me before we reached a
zone of comparative safety. I retreated to the edge of the lava and there in the dead forest, behind the first buttress tree, the great plank-like roots

within 100 feet of our intended destination, but were driven back by a steady stream of sulphurous vapor that surged
up over the edge of the crater and flowed between us and the little watch tower. It was necessary then to retrace our steps and travel one full mile to make that 100 feet. The other side of the

of which formed a three-walled room, I prepared to camp. I lay burning with thirst, a piece of cool banana leaf resting on my tongue and my gaze turned upward at the pale stars and the night birds that, attracted by the glare of the volcano, hovered overhead. Again the

crater we found to be even more rough and precipitous. Whole areas had broken
away since our visit of the night before, and now seemed ready to slide downward. Even while crossing one of these

wind changed and the heavy pall of vapor floated above my head, blotting out moon and stars and sending the birds to
other quarters. What if the pall of poisonous vapor should descend ! I lay awake. on guard. At dawn' my boy

there was an ominous roar ; we felt the earth tremble beneath us, and we fled. Landslides into the mouth of Halemaumau may descend with decorumthey
do not at Hale Kakina. We saw the solid crater side where we had stood slide rumbling for a few feet, then take

THE MID-PACIFIC.

637

New Lava (Pahoehoe).

a leap that landed it into the great crimson lake. Ruddy waves circled out and broke against the reddened shores, and
thereafter we avoided any crags divided by the slightest crack. Every few feet we came across the wings or tail feathers of some wild bird,

the craterit waveredmy boy came to my aid, quickly we tore a pole from the roof of the hut, and with his cocoanut knife my boy cut a slit at one end
of the pole at one stroke, slipped the signboard into the slit, bound it tight with a strip from my necktie, caught the letter to the governor in the lower part

evidently a poor creature that, lured by the sunlike glare, had been overcome by sulphurous fumes and devoured at leisure by noisome owls.
It was a hazardous stretch, that last few yards to the little stone house. Twice I was driven back almost suffocated. The third time I reached it only

of the slit, and jabbed the pole tightly into a crevice just as a roaring volume
of smoke and sulphur ascended ; then we leaped back and bounded away. From where we stood to rest the view was inspiring. A great volume of steam arose from a hole before us, leading

to sink down under its shelter as a great

volume of poisonous vapor shot up before me. I crouched, hoping it would blow over the hut. The sulphur cloud enveloped my place of refuge, however,

down to the tunnel of fire 200 feet below our feet, under the new solidly cooled crust of lava. As we looked toward the sea, eight miles away, there was a

and again I fled, running like one blinded into my boy, who was lost and bewildered. We lay flat, and when I partially regained my breath, I snatched the signpost and board from him, dashed
back to the hut, drove the pole into a crevice not two feet from the edge of

straight line of steam vents sending up their tiny clouds, leading the eye to the great ascending volume of white at the end of all. We could see now that the vast, endless field of black, with its foreground of repulsive hummocks, was a great carpet of cinders, some as fine and sharp as emery, others as large as

638

THE MID-PACIFIC.
abruptly left the dead forest behind us, and were encircled in a living mass of densest green. The white forest had disappeared in a twinkling. I climbed

On the Line of the Tunnel. houses, and over this we must find our way to the sea. Certainly I could not ask the attempt of my barefooted companion, and already my shoes were cut, and in one place my foot was bleeding. I determined to strike out for the dead woods and skirt the lava. So with my boy behind me with his cocoanut-leaf baskets bearing our provisions, with only one bottle of water, I prepared to lead the way. I decided to enter the dead forest to the right of the volcano, hoping either to skirt the lava, or at least to strike a native trail running to the seacoast. To follow the lava, I found impossible, so, climbing down its steep face, we entered the whitened forest and struck out boldly, keeping the sun to our left. I pushed on, uphill and down dale, my boy patiently following hour after hour. Our tongues were almost hanging from our heads, for we thirsty and perspiring at every pore, yet never once did my companion suggest water. It was past noon when we came to the dried bed of a stream. I bounded along the rocks, but my boy stopped me to show a blister upon his foot. We sat down upon a boulder for rest, and there we shared our last bottle of water, and longed for more. I had faith that the bed of the

by hanging vines to the top of a tall tree, thought I saw a clear space ahead, and descended to desert the dead stream ; for better the struggle 4113n the lava now than being lost in the bush. Men had wandered for days in these dense island forests, and only recently a Savaiian woman had been found deadstarved to deathnot five miles from her native village. In five minutes I was hopelessly lost, the sun now shut out from view. It was my boy who found a native trail, to which we kept for hours. Sometimes it followed the bed of a stream, sometimes led us through thickest forest. Would it never end! Would it never take us to the cocoanut country? I could understand now why the Samoan will not live farther from the sea than the outer edge of the cocoanut belt. We pushed on and on ; the sun set, and there was darkness. Quickly my boy cut a few sticks, made me a sloping shelter of these and leaves ; and in the dense darkness went to bed. It was cloudy, but away off through the tree tops could be seen the dull red glare of the volcanoa useless guide now, for we could not penetrate the dense underbrush in total darkness. Early next morning before sunrise we were off on the trail, weary and thirsty ; oh, so thirsty ! About midday the path led us through a deserted banana patchnot a ripe one in sight then glorious vision ! A cocoanut tree, a single stem ascending to the heavens,
and not another in sight for miles; we made for the tree and its longed-for freight of water ; but alas ! there was not

a single nut beneath its tufted crown. A little after midday at a cross path where a fire had long since died out my foot stumbled against something beneath the ashesbananas, green bananas covered with leaves, and left there forgotten perhaps. The artificial heat

stream would lead somewhereperhaps to the sea. Suddenly I noticed we had

had ripened several. We gorged ourselves. Oh, the relief to the parched throat, afforded by a ripe, slimy, moist

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639

Lava Flowing Into the Sea. banana in a hot tropical land! For nearly twenty-four hours I had eaten nothing; my throat being too dry. Later in the afternoon we again sighted a cocoanut tree and hastened on. We could see that there was a crown of green fruit at the top of the tall stem just below the tuft of leaves. Down dropped our luggage, my Samoan boy's teeth sank into the green bark of a young tree, and a moment later there was a band about his ankles, and he was leaping skyward. A dozen nuts fell at my feet, but I lay where I had fallen, every muscle sore .and too weary too move. I lay there until my boy opened two of the nuts with skillful blows from his knife and brought them to me. I drank as I never had before in my life ; then he drank, cut leaves for me to rest upon, and we both sought slumber ; but there was no rest. Instead, painful cramps seized my limbs, and when I attempted to rise, they were paralyzed. My boy was in nearly as bad a condition, yet nevertheless he rubbed my limbs until I could use them, and fearing to rest again I determined to keep them limber by constant use. First we followed a trail for miles, that I finally realized must lead us only deeper into the bush and away from the sea and the cocoanut lands then anotherand I was hopelessly lost. Moreover, my boy, who had never been six miles from his home village in all his life, looked at me blankly. All along he had thought I knew just where I was going. We wandered, a trail led downhill ; it must be to the sea. I walked as rapidly as I could, but my boy called me
back ; he had discovered a broad road at right angles ; something told me to push

onward, but I turned aside, and followed the bearer of my luggage. For miles we followed the roadway, now half overgrown with young trees, and at last came to its abrupt endingface to face with a wall of lava. I afterwards discovered that had I followed the other trail a few hundred yards it would have led me to a native villagenot far from the sea. Now we knew why the road had been deserted. I remembered being told that

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THE MID-PACIFIC.

From the Sea. the most recent flow of lava a few months previously had swept away one of the inland villages. We had before us five or six miles across the lava to the nearest resting place. In two days' wandering we had come back to a point not more than three miles from our
starting point. Helping each other, we clambered up the black, uneven wall and looked out over the endless waste. It

and soon soaked with blood ; my hands were cut from climbing over the rough hummocks and I dared not look behind to learn if my barefooted carrier was following. I thirsted, as never before. Suddenly there came over me a longing for that most loathsome of all native drinks, kava. My soul and body craved
the ill-smelling, spicy draught ; the drink, after one gulp of which, I had

seemed impossible that any sufficient progress could be made across that great uneven jagged massit was equally certain that there would be no following the contour of the lava field through the
forest. Everywhere to our right a growth of vines formed a flooring be-

sworn never again to taste, touch or smellI would now give my earthly possessions for it. Oh, those hours on the lava! Miles
of it before us and every little hillock of this sharpened coke tore my clothing to shreds and lacerated my body. At times

neath the trees, some six feet from the ground ; a flooring too frail to walk upon, too dense beneath to walk under. To turn back was equally impossible. I
could observe now, here and there, stray cocoanut trees, but had our lives depended upon reaching them I know

I would scramble down twenty or thirty feet from the lava to the forest, to gather tough vines to bind about my
feet and seeking a possible pathway, but finding none. In two days of travel we had not seen a single human being, but

not if we would have lived to reach their fruit. It was lava or nothing. I looked at my Samoan boy's bleeding feet and signaled him to lay down his burden. He shook his head and motioned me to go on. How) the sun beat down upon that black lava, and how the sharp edges cut the feet ! My shoes were in tatters

now far off toward the sea we now spied three men outlined against the sky. The sun was setting, and soon all in a moment darkness would be upon usa darkness lighted, however, by the pale
pink of the volcano glare we were leaving behind. We hallooed, waved our

arms and acted like mad men. The men saw us and halted. As best we could we

THE MID-PACIFIC.
made our way to them and found that they followed a track beaten on the lava the only one. For a consideration one

641

only sign that a score of burned towns lay beneath the field of black. At the very edge of the lava field we slipped

of their number turned back to guide us to the nearest village. We followed a

well-trodden path now, and soon were where fallen coioanut trees marked the too recent path of the advancing lava. Roasted cocoanuts lay where they had fallen. Sometimes the mass of coke had

into a villageSamalaiulua part of which was still unsubmerged. In the chief's house mats were spread for us,
and I for one fell to the floor exhausted, to be pounced upon by a dozen halfnaked youngsters, who began to pound and massage every muscle in my body.

pushed forward and outward, a wall of cold tumbled, burned-out lava that the
living stream behind had forced on to its work of destruction. We were now passing above the sites of the once most prosperous villages in all Savaii, villages that had been moved back before the advancing terror until abandoned in de-

The village Taipu made kava, which. I drank like one possessed, and then I slept.
It was days before the soreness left my bones. I paid my guide for his wounded, bleeding feet, and left the village with a new carrier. Another's day painful tramp and I reached the end of Sa-

spair. There was no sign anywhere of

the brick and stone of the traders'
houses from which the stores had been moved until the cost of labor reached

vaii facing the channel that separates it

after another thirty miles of walking, once more reached Apia. My German

from the Island of Upolo. In time I secured a boat to bear me across, and

its high water mark, four shillings an

hour, and then the traders had left their goods to their fate and looked for other locations and opportunities to begin life
anew. Afar in the middle of the great, black field of desolation stood the single stone turret of a sacred edifice. Here the cathedral church and pride of Savaii

friend arrived a few days later in the man-of-war with the governor of the islands, quite recovered. The governor
approved my naming of Samoa's active crater ; but time has passed since, crater sign and all have been engulfed in a grater lake of fire than has been, and the end is not yet, for the volcano on the

lay in all its whiteness under the sombre field, and in all those square miles of
desolation, its turret above the lava, the

Island of Savaii is more active at the end of six years than ever before.

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THE MID-PACIFIC.

SydneyHeadquarters of the New South Wales Tourist Bureau.

Marvels of the Underground

The Jenolan Caves of New
South Wales
BY

E. RAYMENT
Acting Director N. S. W. Immigration and Tourist Bureau

HAT a world of fascination there is in the very idea of a cave ! How the thoughts of weird subterranean caverns carved out of the bowels of the earth fire our imagination ! Perhaps it is the natural instinct of the curious human to pry beneath the surface ; perhaps, who knows, it may be a heritage from our an-

cient ancestors, the troglodytes of old. We have all pictured to our mind's eye the "Smugglers' Cave," the "Hermit's Cave," or the "Bandit's Cave," which form such an indispensable feature of the "Adventures" that have delighted the heart of youth since books were written. But it is safe to say that no mind can picture, any more than pen can describe or photograph portray, the beauties or the marvels of the limestone caverns that
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Victoria Pass, on the Way to Jenolan. nature has formed through countless ages of time.
Though many of these caves are to be found both in the old world and in America, perhaps in no country do they occur

so frequently as in Australia. In New

South Wales alone there are 26 series of limestone caves which have been inspected and "reserved" by the Government,
besides many others in every State of the Commonwealth. Though there are larger caves, such as the Mammoth Caves of Kentucky, the Jenolan Caves of New their formations.

thusiastic Australian attempting to describe the wonders that awaited them. But the magic of the Caves never fails and "they who came to scoff remain to pray," or rather to "praise." "Biroomea," as the Caves were called

by the aborigines, first became known to the white man through a bushranger,
named McKeown, who used a small cave as a retreat. It was in 1841 that James Whalan, when following the tracks of a stolen horse, discovered McKeown's

South Wales are unrivalled for the profusion, variety, beauty, and delicacy of

The Jenolan Caves have a world wide reputation which has attracted visitors from every corner of the earth and like

attention, but for many years owing to

the excessively wild and rugged nature of the country in which they were situat-

camp, and the great archways which form the central feature of the Jenolan Caves. They rapidly began to attract

the Queen of Sheba of old they can only say "the half was not told them." I have seen tourists from Europe and America
blase with sightseeing in many lands who would listen with a tired and patronizing air to the eulogies of some en-

ed, a visit to the Fish River Caves, as

they were then called, was a matter of great difficulty, and the exploration of the caves, whose extent and formation
were practically unknown, was attended with considerable danger. It was not till some years after that the Government

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645

The Yawning Entrance to Jenolan recognized the necessity for protecting the caves, but in 1866 an area of 6y4 square miles was reserved, and in the following year a caretaker was appointed. Since that date neither expense nor berless features of interest are pointed out by the guides, who are armed with powerful magnesium lamps which light up one moment the glistering facets of the crystalline floor, and the next reveal

trouble has been spared to open up the caves and make them easy of access, as
well as to add to the attractiveness of the surroundings. Today in addition to the great open caverns, the Grand Arch and the Devil's Coach House, which are

stately columns several feet in diameter or clusters of delicate and translucent

stalactites as fine as the finest wire. Then it will be an artistic group of "shawls" draped in graceful folds with the gorgeous pattern and delicate "texture" re-

themselves worth a visit, there are 12 caves accessible to the public, and 10 of
these have been so improved by the construction of pathways, steps cut in the solid rock or formed of cement, iron staircases, bridges and platforms, that they can be viewed without difficulty and in perfect comfort. The majority of the caves are lighted by electricity, cunningly concealed lights of great power throwing weirdly beautiful formations into bold relief or disclosing unsuspected and exquisitely decorated recesses. The num-

vealed by the searching rays of the magnesium light, or perhaps a majestic

cavern roofed and walled with glittering cascades, draperies and stalactites of snowy whiteness or the delicate tints of amber, pink, chocolate, or a hundred other shades.

The history of the discovery and exploration of the recently opened caves is one of entrancing interest. Most of the work has been done by Jeremiah Wilson,

the former caretaker ; J. C. Wiburd, the present caretaker, and the late guide Ed--

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A Typical Australian Cave Interior. wards. To the credit of the two latter must be placed the magnificent River series, comprising the River, Temple of Baal, Orient and Skeleton caves, which are the pride of Jenolan, and the wonder of the world. Armed with a plentiful supply of candles, a magnesium lamp, and a stout rope, they would go into the caves, perhaps on Saturday afternoon difficulties was the negotiation of the underground river, which at first could only be crossed by swimming, and exploring in this way in the icy waters and the inky blackness of the cave, which the tiny light of the candle only served to intensify, was a task requiring both nerve and determination. But there is one hole which was then far from the beaten

and they might not reappear until the next day. Selecting some likely opening or crevice through which the candle
flame would indicate a draught, they would crawl or climb, lowering themselves by the rope into unknown depths,

track, which the caretaker now hardly

looks at without a shudder. Down here lie two caps, a coat, and some candles,
which he says he will never attempt to get. For several hours he and Guide

*r clambering into places which would to the ordinary individual seem absolutely inaccessible. Constant work in the
caves seems to develop an additional sense, a kind of instinct which coupled with exceptional agility and absolute

Edwards strove in vain to get out, and it was only after almost superhuman efforts with the energy of despair that they succeeded in escaping. As no one besides themselves knew into which of the
hundreds of passages they had gone or

fearlessness has surmounted all obstacles and has opened to the world these hidden wonders of nature. Not the least of their

could find the tortuous and difficult track

they had explored, their predicament can be understood. Walking in comfort through the caves as they are now im-

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647

A Grotto in the Big Cave. proved, it is hard to realize the difficul- be mentioned the "Grand Stalactites," ties that faced the men who first pene- "Coral Grotto," "Gem of the West"a trated into the depths of the unknown, magnificent white canopy, whose upper literally taking their lives in their hands. portion is decorated with irregular deTo the hardy and adventurous spirit, posits like creepers knotted and twisted however, there is a special charm in round each other, the lower portion being negotiating a cave in its natural state, composed of numbers of beautiful glassand two of the caves have advisedly been like pendantsand the "Queen's Dialeft practically as they were found, so monds," a recess lined with clusters of that those who desire to test their agility many sided crystals of dazzling brilliancy. From this cave a descent of 50 feet and nerve may have the opportunity. Practically all the caves are reached is made to the underground river which from openings in the Grand Arch. The steals silently through its subterranean Nettle and Arch Caves which were course of two miles or more to emerge amongst the first discovered contain again into the light and join the Jenolan many interesting features, and the light River. The current is considerable, but varies from twilight to semi-darkness. so limped is the water and so unruffled Here unfortunately the work of vandals is its surface that the eye detects no moin the early days can be seen, many of tion until the guide places a small piece the formations being broken. The most of lighted candle on the water. The popular caves on the northern side of the lighted taper coquettes for a while with Archway. are the Right Imperial, Left the back water running round projecting Imperial, and Jubilee. They are all con- rocks and placid pools, but is shortly nected and consist of long series of pas- borne into the main current, when it sails sages and chambers all practically on a rapidly away and is soon lost to sight. level. The first named has numberless An interesting diversion indulged in by features of interest, among which may tourists at this spot is endeavoring to

648

THE MID-PACIFIC.
scribe the entrancing beauty of the scene. From massive terraced columns of glistening snowy white and large crystalline white and amber tinted stalactites to the

most delicate and fantastically shaped delictites or mysteries, and microscopic

stalactitic growths resembling hoar frost, almost every variety ofedripstone formation is found, the whole forming a scene than which it would be impossible to :on-

ceive anything more beautiful. The main cave leading from the southern side of the Grand Arch is the Lucas
Cave which is renowned for its spacious caverns, some of which reach majestic proportions. "The Cathedral" for instance is a colossal chamber 160 feet in height in which the electric lights have been placed to great advantage, and the Exhibition Cave is 250 feet long by 140 feet broad and of great height. From here the wonderful River series of caves is reached. Perhaps the most interesting experience at Jenolan is the trip across the River Styx (as this subterranean waterway is named) in the roomy fiat botShawl Effect. throw a coin on to a stalagmite placed under the water at a depth of about six feet. The feat is more difficult than it

tomed boat worked on an endless rope. Festoons of electric lights hang from the roof and are reflected in the depths of
the placid water. The weirdness of the scene is heightened by the gloomy blackness of the cave and the sombre dullness

appears, but the district hospital which reaps the benefit no doubt considers the attempt commendable. The Left Imperial comprises a number of roomy chambers lavishly ornamented, irresistably reminding the awe-struck beholder of the fairy palaces of childhood's dreams. One

feels constrained to speak in whispers for fear of disturbing the sprites that can almost be seen hovering in the subdued
light among the grottoes or peeping from eerie recesses on every hand. The

of the sandstone walls which grimly guard the secret of this wonderful waterway. As the swish of the water against the sides of the boat is softly echoed from wall to wall and the rippled surface sends the shattered reflections dancing into the eerie darkness of the overhanding rocky banks, one's imagination once again runs riot. But the crossing of the River is
only one incident of many in this wonderful cave, which is crowded with interest from end to end. The most recently
opened of the caves is the "Temple of

Jubilee Cave is specially noted for two gorgeous chambers, the "Alabaster Hall" a conical cavern 40 feet in height, the walls of which are completely covered right to the apex with dazzling white and amber tinted draperies, stalactites, and crystalline formationsand the "Gem of Jenolan," a marvellous chamber so richly decorated both as regards

Baal" which branches off from the River Cave just beyond the River Styx. This

form and coloring that no words can de-

majestic cavern is generally acknowledged to be the sight of sights at Jenolan and it is a most striking example of the remarkable differences in the type of formation in the various caves. Though really a branch of the River Cave which itself leads off from the Lucas, they are

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649

The Australian Way of Making Improvements to Tempt the Tourist On. entirely dissimilar in character, and the same may be said of the caves on the northern side of the Arch. The Temple of Baal proper is a truly magnificent chamber of noble .proportions. Buried deep in the heart of the mountain you can fancy yourself transported to some mighty ancient temple. As you reach the entrance and peer curiously into the inky blackness the very vastness which you feel, though you cannot see, holds you in awestruck silence. Then with the turning of a switch by the guide the immense depth and height stand revealed in a flood of light from scores of powerful electric lamps ingeniously concealed from sight. In the center of the mighty temple stand two great "altars," one of pearly dazzling whiteness, and the other a deep blood red, while overhead impending from the towering roof is seen a gi4 gantic stalactitic formation like an angel of titanic proportions with folded wings and flowing drapery, its stainless whiteness standing out in startling contrast to the chocolates and reds which are the prevailing colors of the rugged walls and roof. Here indeed one stands entranced and spellbound in the face of this stupendous creation of the Great Architect. Another branch of the River Cave shortly to be opened is the Orient Cave which will be found to rival anything yet seen, the profusion of the decorations and the extraordinary richness and variety of the coloring being more pronounced than in any other single cave. The Skeleton Cave which also is reached by way of the River Cave is peculiarly interesting by reason of the human skeleton which was found embedded in the floor. The unfortunate aboriginal

650

THE MID-PACIFIC.

A Blue Mountain Gorge. who here met his lonely fate evidently fell through an opening in the mountain
hundreds of feet above and groping his way in the intense darkness in the Cathedral Cave rolled and tumbled into the

motor services which run daily, the road though hilly being kept in excellent order throughout. Splendid views are obtained of the stupendous gorges of the far famed Blue Mountains with their

Bone Cave beneath (so named from the number of bones of wallabies and other animals which have met a similar fate) and then through a chasm to where the skeleton now lies. This cave though small has most exquisitely beautiful decorations, among which may be mentioned the Bath of Venus, a dainty crystalline basin filled with water and charmingly embowered in a semi-circle of translucent dripstones.
Not the least attractive feature of these marvellous caves is the rugged beauty of

towering cliffs of a thousand feet sheer, and the sensation experienced as the motor after negotiating the five-mile run down the road carved in the precipitous side of a mountain plunges into the semidarkness of the majestic Grand Arch piercing the lofty limestone ridge is one never to be forgotten. The length of this wonderful tunnel carved by the waters of the creek through countless ages
through the mountain is 450 feet, the height 40 to 70 feet, and the width 30 to 180 feet, and though some of the huge

the surrounding scenery. The journey may be made from any of the Blue Mountain stations within a couple of hours by rail from Sydney. The thirty miles from Mt. Victoria to Jenolan is easily done in two hours by the regular

boulders and rocks which marked the course of the old waterway have been levelled to make the road, the natural beauty of the Arch has not been destroyed, while the fantastic shapes of the huge stalactites hanging from the roof are a

THE MID-PACIFIC. never ending source of interest. Emerging from the archway you find yourself

651

"Devil's Coach House," another huge open cavern formed like the Grand Arch

in front of the palatial Government Hotel or "Caves House" which with its well laid out gardens almost fills the small valley, whilst towering mountains frown on every side. In this delightful sheltered spot you seem qiut out from the worry and bustle of the busy world and yet it

by the action of water. Four hundred feet long by 120 feet wide it reaches a height of 160 feet. Standing within the
cave the spectator is assisted in his endeavor to realize its immense size by the light thrown in from openings high up in the roof. From the surface at one of

is possible to reach Sydney in four hours, while the telephone and telegraph are at hand. The accommodation and cuisine
at the Caves House are of the very best, though the tariff is but 10 shillings per day, and a delightful holiday can be spent there apart from the caves altogether.

these openings to the floor is 280 feet. Visitors from abroad are invariably interested in the numerous rock wallabies which are always to be seen about

The climate is particularly healthy and bracing and there are many charming
walks, the track by the Jenolan River affording access to a succession of sylvan glades and shady nooks. Just beyond the Grand Archway is the mighty

the Grand Arch and Devil's Coach House. Being protected by the Government within the Reserve they have become so tame that they take little or no

notice of the visitors, and some of them seem to be adepts at posing for the
cameraprobably through constant practice.

652

THE MID-PACIFIC.

Body Surfing in Austra lia.

Water Sports of the South

Sea Islands
BY

H. F. ALEXANDER
WAS talking with an old resipalolo fishing, you must be in Fiji or Samoa during October and November. If at the third quarter of the moon in October, just before dawn, the palolo rises in small numbers, the native knows that the big catch will be in November ; if in large numbers, he need not bother about the November

dent in Samoa, who had been asked to write an article on the sports of that
island. "Absolutely impossible for me to do it," he explained; "there are no sports down here." A little later he

was showing me how to ride turtles in their native element ! No sports in the South Seas ! There's a world of them from hunting the wild pig ashore
(and sometimes there are fatal accidents) to riding turtles and catching

catch at all ; so it is safest to arrive in these islands about the middle of October, if you are a palolo enthusiast,
and palolo fishing is certainly one of the rarest sports in the world, confined to two groups of islands, two days at most out of each year.

or being caught bysharks in the sea. I spent many months cruising from island to island in the Pacific, and every day some new sport was proposed to me by men who were astonished that I had never before heard of such a thing. I was lucky enough to be invited to attend a palolo expeditionas soon as

There is one reef near Apia where the palolo is known to rise in vast
numbers. When October comes, every one watches the moon ; on the night that it enters its third quarter, every man, woman and child, white and native, who can beg, borrow or steal a canoe or craft of any kind, makes for

the third quarter of the moon came roundfor on two days, and two days only, out of every year the palblo
makes his apearance in the South Seas. If you wish to enjoy the sport of

the reef. Patiently the fleet waits, watching the outer edge of the reef where the swells of the ocean break into foam. By midnight the line of
foam is well guarded, everyone watch653

654

THE MID-PACIFIC.

Maori Children Diving for Pennies, Rotorua. ing the waters; in every boat is a scoup of mosquito netting for each occupant ; an hour passes and a few string-like worms of greenish color, some eight or ten inches in length, float up to the surface of the sea. Now the excitement becomes intensethis greenish sea worm is the palolo, that lives for
364 days in the coral ; if he begins to come up in large numbers, there is a great cheering, and the nets are gotten in readiness; if the numbers are few, there is disappointment and many pad-

fish, and the fish ignore themit is palolo dayor to be accurate, palolo hour, for at dawn these shiny strings of life will sink again to their holes in the coralor as the sun rises, melt away and disappear in the briefest space of time. With shrieking and laughter the
scoops and nets are dipped into the sea and lifted up laden with shiny, writhing palolo; as fast as the fishers can ply their arms and nets the luscious sea worms are bailed into the boat, un-

dle to shore, knowing that the great catch will be four weeks later to the
day, hour and minute. But on the day of the great catch! About 3 a. m. a huge sea serpent seems to rise from the sea and stretch its length just above the irregular edge

til she sinks in the sea to her gunwales, and as the great serpent-like line of green and yellow slime begins
to dissolve before the rising sun, the fleet, heavy laden with the spoil, returns to Apia, where an army of help-

of the coral banka green and yellow writhing gelatine-looking mass floats upon the seaeverywhere now the
spaghetti-like palolo is rising to the surfacesharks and every kind of fish are swarming to the reef to enjoy their one great annual banquet. The occu-

ers is ready with pails, buckets, old oil cans and every kind of receptacle to carry home a portion of the catch. The
children are hurried into the fields to pick taro leaves, and soon fires are burning in every house and native but in Samoa. The long sea worms, that

pants of the canoes do not heed the

smell and taste like oysters, are wrapped in taro leaves and baked, the crisp

THE MID-PACIFIC.

655

Hawaiian Boys Diving.

Ernest Moses Photo I

strings keeping in this condition for one full yearit being the custom the day of the big catch to eat the last
parcel of the catch of the year before thus insuring, according to Samoan tradition, a big "rising" for the next coming of the palolo. Personally, I

the coral barrier, or if not, the back wash may force him beneath the shelving formation, and keep him there until It was in this way that drowned.
hundreds of sailors lost their lives during the great hurricane that made Apia historic.

prefer palolo to octopus, both of which I have dined on with my native

friends in Samoa. Another sport upon the reefs that took my fancy was crayfishing. The crayfishas large and luscious as lobsterslive down below the jutting edge of the outer reef. The natives,

There are native men and women, however, in these South Sea Islands who have learned to dive beneath this
self of rock ; they wait for the psychological moment, drop over the edge, secure the crayfish, rise again just as the wave has spent its force, and land in safety. Usually these divers wear goggles that fit closely and keep the water out of the eyes, for they must

who have acquired the difficult art, visit the reef at low tide, stand upon its edge, and as the wave recedes, dive
down, swim beneath the ledge and look for the crayfish upon the wall of coral. Although the water upon the reef may be but a few inches deep, beyond its

edge there is a drop of hundreds of fathoms. Here the rollers that have
started near the coast of South America, meet their first obstacle, and there is a constant roar of the breaking surf. Let anyone get caught in this and he is apt to be pounded to death against

keep their eyes open to look for the crayfish, and then watch the crest of the wave above that they may know just when to rise, for it is a dangerous sport, this crayfishing in the South Sea Islands. There is one more sport on the coral that to my mind is as thrilling as any on dry land, and that is surfingwhether it be jumping the reef in a cutter before a storm, with one chance in ten

that you do not have to swim ashore

656

THE MID-PACIFIC. sirous of seeing how the thing was

from the wreck, or riding in on a surfboard with the thrilling, blood-curdling knowledge that there are sharks about. I had learned to ride the surfboard in Hawaii, and everywhere while cruising among the Fiji Islands I was on the lookout for native surfers. No one had ever heard of surfboard

done, so provided horses and we rode away. At the little native village we
were met by the Buli, or local chief, "Yes, his people did ride the surf, but the men who were best at it were away gathering copra for the traders, but if

riders in Fijieveryone ridiculed the idea, save one old settler I met on the

the gentlemen wish&I it, he would order some of the women and old men into the sea." We did wish it, and soon

Learning to Swim in Honolulu. cruise. He had lived among the natives for years, sharing in their life and sports. "On the Island of Taviuni,"
he said, "you will find natives who ride the surfboard ; it is the accomplish-

Bo.-zine Photo

ment of a little village called Korovu,

near the end of the island where it joins the reef."

I made for Taviuni, but no one on the island, not even those who had lived there for years and decades, knew of any natives who rode upon the surf ;

I was scurrying about seeking a surfAlas ! to my disappointment, I found that the Fijians, unlike the Hawaiins, use any scrap of timber as a board for surfing; moreover, they never stand upon their boards, which

board.

are usually but two or three feet in length, being content to merely rest
their chests upon them and come sweeping in before the waves in a prostrate position. However, I succeeded in finding a piece of an old

in fact, my claim was ridiculed ; but I had seen the great rolling surf at Korovu as we sailed past, and had made
up my mind to have a closer acquaintance. Two of the planters were de-

canoe, some seven feet in length, and determined to make an attempt that if
successful would, I was certain, astonish the natives. We started for the surfing place. It

THE MID-PACIFIC.
was nothing like Waikiki Beach near Honolulu. Instead of the great broad

657

of breakers at the edge of the reef. I threw myself flat upon my board, and

beach, we approached a high, rocky

cliffcleft in twain by some seismatic disturbanceinto this narrow cleft not ten feet wide the rollers that passed over the reef, swept with terrific force. The natives 11-st threw their little planks into the sea, and then dived

my arms working round like windmills sent me speeding through the

wavesto the wild delight of the admiring audience above, and the astonishment of the surfriders themselves, who were not accustomed to the Hawaiian method. One old Fijian seem-

Sliding Down the Face of a Hawaiian Waterfall. down through the forty feet of space that separated the beetling edge of the rocky cliff from the surging waters. I had to follow suit, with the full knowledge that if I caught a wave I must guide my board so that it would dash between the cliffs in that long alley of rushing water, or be hurled against the jagged rocks on either side of the cleftbut there were a hundred natives and two white men upon the brow of the cliff, waiting expectantly, so I made the leap and began to propel my board out to the line

Ernest Moses Photo

ed to know the currents and tried to explain to me, but I soon discovered for myself that I had not Hawaiian waters to deal with. The rollers rushed over the reef at an angle that created a swirl, so that once out of the direct shoreward current there was a mill race to the sea. I was soon in the mill race. In vain I turned my board to stem the current, I was powerless. The old Fijian motioned me back, intimating that sharks abounded beyond the reef, in deep water. My efforts became frantic as I felt the water draw-

658

THE MID-PACIFIC.
beckoned wildly to me to returnnone daring or offering to come to my assistancethey knew and feared the sharks
that haunt the deeper waters. Even to attempt to paddle against the receding waves I knew to be useless folly, yet my

arms revolved in that powerful exhaustive windmill stroke, woken they should have been resting for a supreme effort. At last the longed for roller came, lifted me on its crest, my weary arms refused to give the few great strong strokes and I sank behind further from the reef than ever. Moreover my board, the part of a canoe, was rounded, my body rested in a hollow, and I doubted if with this curved vehicle I could ever catch and hold a wave. Now I rested exhaustedanother
and another wave passed me byand then a still larger approaching I prepared

for a supreme effort. I caught it and went sailing toward the reef, but alas the Fijian rollers break quickly and give but a short run. I guided my board, by swinging my legs to the left, toward the
old Fijian, who standing on the edge of the reef, where the current, set inward,

The Papasea Fall Leap, Samoa. ing me not only backward over the edge of the reef, but downward, for a

held out his hand toward memy wave gave out just before I reached him and I felt my board slipping back. Madly I
struggled now, for I did not dare hope to struggle successfully with another current; once the tips of my outstretched fingers reached those of the old Fijian,

Niagara poured over the reef with each receding wave. I leaped from my board and stood upon my feet almost on the edge of the reef, the backward
swirl caught me in its grasp and bore me down, tearing my feet upon the

then slippedhe bent forward, seized my board and drew me in exhausted and I lay panting for some time before I was
able to get upon my feet in the shallow water. The danger was over and laughing

sharp coral. I went under, still holding to my board. I knew the dangers of that shelf of coral beneath which
strange currents rollI knew that the nearer to the surface the weaker the undertow, and I tried once more to mount my board. An incoming wave

brown men and women now shot by me, their little bits of board held before them or their chests lightly resting on the
wood. I tried to stand and give my board the necessary start by shoving it forward and then throwing myself full length upon it, but the clumsy make-shift

relieved the fearful tension on the lower part of my body, and almost exhausted I once more lay flat upon my
plank. Again the waves receded, and I was carried far beyond the reef into deep water.

avoided my embraces and the coral cut my feet cruelly. So I returned to my board and sought to catch the waves which were far too shortby propelling
my board before them. I wished to astonish the Fijians by leaping to my feet and riding upon the crest of a wave and

Ashore and on the reef, the Fijians

THE MID-PACIFIC.

659

Hauling in Dead Sharks. guiding my boardby a mere motion of there are other better and safer sports

the foot between the cliffsalas for human vanity ! I thought I had at last
caught my wave, sprang to my feet, my apology for a surfboard dived and I was thrown into two feet of water and dragged over the coral that cut and tore the skin wherever the jagged edges touched.

on the Island of Taviuni. Taviuni boasts the one, rival in the Pacific to the famous sliding rock of Samoa. I have tried them both with delight, and yield the palm to Taviuni. There is a regular cruising steamer from Suva and Levuku every two weeks, and

It was torture ; in pain and bleeding I once more clambered upon my board,
while roller after roller hurried me forward to the iron-bound shore. Men and women on the sky line above called to me in a strange language ; men and

this boat stops at Taviuni twice each cruiseso that , either a day or a week
may be spent upon this island where sliding over precipices is a pastime, and mountain climbing after the most wonderful orchids in the world, a lucrative occupation. From Korovu the surf-

women about me to whom coral was nothing, urged me to wade fearing that I
might be dashed against the rocks, but I seized the right wavelet and with a swish and a roar glided into the narrow tortuous cleft between the All rocky cliffs, leaped from my board as the backwash

board villageit is a ride of twelve miles to the sliding rock, which is much nearer
the village of Soma Soma, where the steamer usually makes a stay of several' hours, quite long enough for a visit to the slide.

bore it away, and with the next inrush of the water, gave myself to the current unresistingly and glided over smooth stones to a ledge of rock, where I was
gently deposited, and from which I climbed to the heights abovea wiser man as to surfboarding in Fijian waters the first and only white person, most probably, that has ever attempted this sport with the natives of Fiji. I would not advise anyone to follow my example

Any native can guide you to the sliding rock ; on the way he will, (if you wish, and care to take enough canned provisions for a picnic party)gather up a number of maids and young men of Fiji who have nothing to do most of the year round but sleep on their mats in doors or seek sport of some kind withoutcricket being their favorite game. After a march through cocoanut plantations, the bush is reached far up the

660

THE MID-PACIFIC. darting straight ahead then disappearing over the edge of a waterfall, emerging a second later from the depths of the pool below, then shooting forward into the next descending trough. Shrieks of laughter ascend. from the young girls and they, too, seat themselves in the trough of the sliding rekk and away they are carried, bumping up and down over
the smooth rock, shot over falls and down through rapidsall shrieking and laughing with delight. It seems a dan-

gerous sport, yet no one is hurt. I determined to try it. Gingerly I seated myself ; the steep descent and jutting rocks before me made me believe that only the natives have solved the secret of avoiding them ; I attempted to rise, the water piling up behind me swept me forward feet foremost, and so in a sitting position I shot in and out between the high rocks on either side of me ; suddenly I was in the air. Shot over a waterfall, I landed in the pool below in a
sitting position. Then I was upset forward, hurled into a narrow channel while

my body glided over velvet rock. I went humping over stones and rocks in a cataract, took another fearful dive and landed in smooth water in the midst of a circle of happy, laughing Fiji boys and time and again. Sometimes we went singly, sitting or lying down or feet foremountain side and suddenly a rocky most, some of the more expert standing gulch breaks upon the view. At its bot- on the slimy, slippery bed of rock and
tom, water is dashing with mill race speed . Down the gulch the whole mad keeping their balance as they sped along until carried over the fall and alighting

Tame Sport, Ashore.

girls. We climbed the side of the gulch, retraced our steps and repeated the sport

party stumbles and falls, the women turning their backs at the water's edge to remove their upper garments and adjust iVheir sulus, in which single width of wearing apparel they purpose to join the sliding party. Between rocky walls, a narrow stream of water comes pouring down through a winding trough of lava worn smooth by constant erosion. A native sits in the trough, the water behind him piles up in
an instant, and he is propelled forward at a seemingly breakneck speed. In and out his body winds between the rocks,

feet downward in the pool below. Sometimes three or four of us went down together, the first with his feet outstretched before him, the feet of the one behind under his arms, with his arms about his
waist so we formed a train that dashed at express speed between the rock walls and is sent over the fall in a shrieking

line of humanity that becomes instantly disorganized as it strikes the water below. Sport ! It is sport for all the gods
and goddesses of ancient or modern mythology. The slide at Papasaia, four or five

now following serpentine curves, now

miles from Apia, is of course better

THE MID-PACIFIC. known to the tourist than is the slide in Fiji. I wandered out one steamer day

651

and found a picnic party of a number of tourists and a dozen Samoan maids preparing for the great sport. The men some of whom had brought their own
wivesretired to a little native house and donned theirbathing suitsone attempted to adjust a native lava-lava or

loin clothwith seeming success. The Samoan girls, as is their wont, merely turned their backs, discarded all upper
clothing and adjusted their lava-lavas firmly. Then the procession wended its way down to the rock. The men with

one accord paused before the rock ; it was thirty to forty feet high and over its smooth perpendicular face trickled several broad ribbons of water. One of the Samoan girls sat upon the edge of the
cliff, straightened her body and shot down, descending into the deep pool at the base of the falls and rising from the

waters to shake her hair and laugh loudlyan invitation to the others to follow. One more venturesome than the others
did so. He sat upon the edge of the cliff, looked down, changed his mind, tried to get up, his feet slipped from under him

After the Shark Hunt.

down togetherthe victim rises spluttering and bewildered, to the intense amusement of all. Sometimes there is a curtain lecture waiting the victim as he

and the next moment I was shooting

through the air, my breath leaving my body ; then there was a splash, a sensation
as though I would never come up above water againa coughing and spluttering, then a sound of laughter in my ears. The momentary thrill while falling those

crawls out of the swimming pool. I saw one roundly lectured and marched away by an indignant wife who could not be

made to understand the simplicity of the

native Samoan sports. There are really three slides at Papasaia : First, the man's slide, already des-

brief forty feet exceeds any sensation connected with the water slide at Taviuni, but there it lasts for minutes, while at Papasaia it is all over in a flash and_
a splash. The tourist with self-adjusted lavalava was the next to attempt the slide,

cribed ; then a rod lower down the stream a little sliding drop of ten feet called the children's slide ; then a third a few yards
further, a steep but not a perpendicular drop, and this is the woman's slide. The picnickers, however, invariably begiii,

or fall ; we finally left him in the pool searching with his feet for his lava-lava and not daring to come out in the presence of the ladies.

with the sliding rock, and once the slid!, is taken, the sport becomes thoroughly enjoyable and the visiting parties that frequent Papasaia keep its fame before the world, and spread it still further abroad with every year that passes. Nearly all the South Sea Island sports

The great sport is, of course, to show

the novice how it is done. First a Samoan girl, full of laughter, sits on the edge of the precipicethe victim sits behind her ; then an accomplice of the first girl sits behind him ; suddenly there is a
closing up of the ranks and the three go

are associated with the waterfor, as in Samoa, the villages are usually built
directly upon the seashore, or upon the banks of short navigable streams. Even

in Fiji among the mountain tribes of the

662

THE MID-PACIFIC. is no need to go shark hunting in that vicinity the next day. It is only the pearl fishers of the South Sea Islands who find real sport in shark fighting nowadays in the Pacific, and they fight only when attacked. At no time is shark s hunting under the
sea a sport for the white man. In the harbor of Apia the natives are fearless, but those ashore have witnessed horrible accidents to white swimmers. Not so long ago one of the young middies of a

two large islands, the one great sport is shooting the rapids in canoes. Some marvelous records have been made in tiny canoes down these racing, raging mountain torrents. Near Levuku, the old capital of Fiji, on the Island of Ovalau, I was introduced to the sport of shooting sharks.
Near the town is the abbatoirthe blood from the cattle flows into the sea and at high tide the sharks, attracted by the smell, come in drovesthey swim within a few feet of the shore and persons

wading in water knee deep have had their legs bitten off. The sport is to
stand on the beach and shoot the sharks as they come sailing by. There is a great spluttering and throwing up of sand and as often as not Mr. Shark makes his escape into deep water. It is, however,

German man-of-war, taking his regulation swimming lesson, with a rope about
his waist, was attacked, the shark leaping out of the water after him when he was being hauled up. The Samoans go out, sometimes in light canoes, far from land, and remain over night in their search for the shark,

more exciting sport, to my mind, than any shark hunting expedition I took part in with the Hawaiians.
In Hawaii there was a time when the native would leap overboard armed only with a sheath knife and fight the largest

They carry only a line of sennit, (made from the fibre of the cocoanut husk, and strong beyond belief) at the end of
which they make a running noose, and a bit of bait which they dangle before the loop in the line. Soon Mr. Shark comes

sharks that frequent the waters about the islands. Nowadays, shark hunting is done by steam launches. A white
horse that has served its day is killed and anchored in shallow water until it is quite ripe, then some morning it is attached to the launch by ropes and towed out into deep water. The gleaming

leisurely alongside and begins to sniff at the bait. If he does not put his head in the noose, one of the natives may slip it
over his tail, and then there is a race to sea. Usually, however, the shark puts his head through the noose, which is tightened about his neck, there is a brief

white of the carcass attracts the sharks, and they comefirst one solitary fellow ;
he sniffs about the bait and goes away, soon to return, followed by other sharks. Absolute silence is enjoined on the launch and the sharks take a bite at the

struggle before he is hauled alongside where a sharp blow from a club upon his snout gives him his last quietus. Seldom is it that the Samoan permits a
shark to escape ; he will even plunge into the water to fight one that is in danger of slipping out of the noose.

bait, then swim quickly away. Soon, &owever, the taste of blood is in their
'.iouth and they returnnow they attack the carcass ravenously. Slowly the man on the launch hauls in on the bait line and silently the harpooner takes his position. As the carcass and the sharks come

Everywhere in the South Seas it was my delight to watch the islanders spear
fish, and borrowing their long reeds tipped with a single needle of steel, seek to emulate their remarkable feats of skill
but with little success. In the clear

within striking distance he lets fly, and then every one is at liberty to pepper
away with rifles and revolvers ; but the sharks are off, even the one that is harpooned, but if the line holds, he is soon wearied out and brought alongside to be

limpid waters about the coral reefs, fish of gorgeous color may be seen swimming fathoms below the surface ; in the shallower waters smaller fish are to be
found, but there is none too small for the spear of the South Sea Island fisherman. A single minnow, flitting by, will be

despatched. If he should escape, there

THE MID-PACIFIC.
impaled unerringlyin fact, even the small boys are expert at this and spend

663

for so long as you care to keep it up, you

much of their time ashore spearing small round sticks that are thrown along over
the grass. It is a great sport, fish spearing, once the eye is trained and you learn the knack, but wmehow I was only successful when I cast a five or six pronged spear into a school of fish that happened

may race your steed around or across the lagoon at will. The speed of these animals through the water will astonish you,
and it is highly probable that your turtle will be thoroughly exhausted before you tire of the sport. Turtle races are safe, for a little knowledge of the reach of

times successful. Spearing fish in the

to be disporting themselves near the surface of the waterthen I was some-

the sharp hawk-like beak, will teach you the narrow circle that is "tabu," that is, "sacred" to his lordship the turtle, and
"forbidden" to you. It is safe to catch your turtle by the overlapping shell just above his head, and the rest is easy ; mount quickly and away you goguide

South Seas is not the most successful sport to be indulged in by the amateur. There is one South Sea Island sport,

however, that the amateur may become proficient in almost at onceand that is turtle riding in the lagoons. Every native chief keeps his private turtle pond ;
in fact turtle meat is forbidden to the common people, unless especially presented to them by the chief. All turtles

so that there is no collision with those with whom you race, and in a little while you may become as proficient a turtle
jockey as the natives themselves. An American, I believe, was the first white man to bring turtle racing within the realm of the sports of the "Palangi"

caught in the South Seas belong to the local chief, every white man of course,
ranking with a chief. Put on your bathing suit and plunge into the lagoon where the turtles are kept within bound, seize a large one with the left hand just where the shell overlaps the head, place the left

(white man) and for this he should have the thanks of every one who visits the South Seas and enjoys the thrills of a
sport that is new to him. No sports in the South Seas ! Why the South Sea Islanders are so accustomed to aquatic and other sports that

knee and the right and firmly on the turtle's back and let the right leg remain
stretched straight out behind you to steer with. The turtle will begin at once to make an attempt to escape. If he tries to dive lean back on your steed and pull upward with the left handthis keeps

they have become a part of their everyday life, so that when you inform them
they are sportsmen they are as surprised as Moliere's tradesman who at the 9.ge
of fifty, learned to his astonishment, that

he had been speaking prose all his life. The South Sea is tne natural home of

his head above waterif your steed evinces a desire to go to the right, throw
your loose leg to the left, until he is headed again in the direction you wish him to go. Within a few moments you have mastered the rudiments of turtle ridingthen for the racesome of the

him who lives out-door sports. As for me I was loth to leave those waters that
invite in a thousand ways to daily healthful exercise and games of chance with its finned inhabitants, that have about them just that tinge of danger that gives glorious thrill we inseparably associa

native boys will gladly join the snort, and

with all real "sport."

664

THE MID-PACIFIC.

Pagsanjan Gorge.

In and Around Manila

BY

JOHN ARTHUR FOWLER

T IS as with an artist who
loves his work and loves

his subject that I ask you to come with us today and see our Manila, whose character we have studied and learned to love, with
whom we have lived and to whom she has shown her inner thoughts. As the steamer pulls up to one of

driver in front almost in our laps, and go where your first impressions of Manila will be from her sweetest smiles. As we drive across the fill which is destined to be covered with warehouses and tracks to handle the commerce of the port, there stretches out before us the long line of royal palms
marking the boundaries of the Malecon Drive, famous in Spanish days, but now given over largely to other than

the new steel docks and the lines are caught and made fast, connecting her with the shore, another line is passed which links her in a more intimate way, and with the friendly telephone Manila has stretched out a hand of welcome and placed the whole of her resources at your command. You may call an auto or a victoria, as one could in any other city in the
world, but if you would know our city as we do, in the more familiar way, let us take the sociable little calesa to-

fashionable uses. Flanked on one side by the wall of one of the most perfect fortified cities in the world, with its suggestions of a past of defence and fear-filled life within, and haloed with flame cast far upon the heavens by the evening sun just disappearing behind the modern defences of Corregidor, the Malecon is great in its decline. The crowds of natives gathered on the Luneta green listen to the music ;
the drive is filled with carriages and automobiles, while their occupants make the concert the social event of

night, with its sturdy native pony, the 5

the day. Fine strains of music from

665

666

THE MID-PACIFIC.

The River Front of Manila. the Constabulary Band float out upon
the cool evening breeze, which bears also to us the fragrance of jasimine and frangipani. With the last strains of "The Star Spangled Banner" lingering in our

acquaintance with our wonderful is: lands. Automobiling by moonlight is one

of the pleasures we share with the rest of the world, and by ten o'clock we have broken the speed laws of two

thoughts, the pony's head is turned homeward, taking us through Looban with its convent walls and private residences where, through the iron gates, glimpses caught of the out-of-door life evidence the comfort of our ways of living. From drives, tennis and from the club our family gathers on the lawn
in here, under a mammoth rubber tree, a table is spread. The lamps of a t,tiousand fire-flies are hardly dimmed

provinces. The Paranaque road, along which General Merritt brought his five thousand men to take Manila, ten years ago, gives you your first view of a native village, its houses tightly sealed against the evil spirits which come

with sleep and darkness. On our return we stop at the Polo Club, and on its wide veranda facing Pasay beach
we have an opportunity to view Manila Bay in its most attractive setting. The moonlight shows each shadow strong;

by the Japanese lanterns hung in its branches and through the shrubbery the rising moon throws its arc of light on the rim of mountain horizon. The music from the native orchestra would cast a spell about us and waste our evening in idle talk of local championships or of the mechanical perfections of our hemp-stripping machine, which is already theoretically a success, but we all agree that your stay must be filled with the essentials for a general

the long beach stretches wide on either side and the lights from Cavite glint across the water in broken streaks of gold. Here the resources of these island possessions are placed before one in colors, glowing but convincing. You are told of fortunes to be made in the forests, mines and lands, waiting for the touch of men and capital.
*

THE MID-PACIFIC. At eight o'clock in the morning the sightseeing begins. The ladies start out to shop for old laces, embroidered pina and antique jewelry. Their search takes them into odd nooks and corners of the ancient walled city and into the by-ways of Philippine life, and their dealings are wig' old women whose

667

business instincts are as keen as they are peculiar. They visit the sister of
the Philippine hero, Jose Rizal, and
perhaps make some purchases of her, for which they pay well. Our automobile takes us down the

Bagumbayan drive and across the river to the crowded Binondo district,

where the greater part of the business is done. Many of the firms here were
established in the first half of the nineteenth century, but even as the outward aspect of the streets has been

changed by the electric lights and modern transportation, so have the business methods in most cases. And yet
there is still enough of the ancient left to give contrast to the fine American stores that have sprung up on the Escolta. In the wholesale district the old

customs have fought the hardest for survival. The credit systems which have obtained for centuries are still in
vogue. We visit the old commercial houses of the English, German, Dutch, Swiss, Chinese, and Spanish, as well as those established later by the

Americans and Filipinos, and their attitude to the same trade is seen to be as varied as the nationalities.
The river front, lined with cascoes, bancos, and squat steamers, with their smoke-stacks lying close to their upper decks, presents a constantly moving study in native life and products.

Bananas and cocoanuts, hemp and rice are easily recognized, but there are countless varieties of fruit which only
a Tagalog or a scientist could name. Joining the ladies at half-past ten, we make a rapid tour of the factories,

our swift automobile bringing them close together. A big cigar factory gives ample proof of the industry of at least some of the Philippine labor. The
native is deft in handling the leaves
The First Fall.

668

THE MID-PACIFIC.

The Binondo Canal.

and expert with machinery, and the whole place presents an appearance of
absolute cleanliness. Courteous always to visitors, the management in parting gives us cigars and cigarettes as reminders of the visit. Little shoe

varied scenery slips by almost too fast. The Pasig, with its river life, is insistent in its interest ; five miles and Fort
McKinley, the largest army post in the Philippines, has come and gone. A glimpse of the lake gives us a foretaste

factories, where hand labor only is used, and a big one where the whirl of machinery and the smell of fresh cut
leather reminds one of Lynn or Brockton, the button factory, where oyster shells are cut and shaped into buttons and many useful articles, the hatmaker

of our evening's trip upon its bosom, and as we cross the river and enter the town of Pasig we see our launch,,
manned and provisioned, awaiting our return. The old Pasig church hints of past centuries, frowning down upon our

weaving buri or sabutan straw, or bamboo into hats, the rope factories
and cotton mills, all have their peculiar interest and are included in our itinerary. We take a glimpse of the principal churches and the cathedral, where

rapid flight as we turn into the long village street. Lean dogs and leaner pigs dispute our passage on every
turn.
Far down the road a girlish form, clad in Turkey reds and yellows and purples, swings along gracefully,

a wide salachot hat on top of the long

wonderful architectural effects were attained with the poorest material and
unskilled labor. A quiet tiffin and siesta refreshes us entirely, and when a machine calls at four o'clock it finds us without a trace

black hair. Maraquina, the shoe factory of Luzon, is passed, and the, wide rice paddies beyond stretch out to the nearing foothills. The road leads us through bamboo groves and mango avenues until the valley narrows and we begin

of fatigue from the strenuous morning of sightseeing. With good roads, the

the ascent into the mountains to where

THE MID-PACIFIC.

A Country Waterway. the city's water supply is stored. High up above the turbulent Maraquina the the launch with just enough roll to lull us to sleep, finishes our evening, and

road describes its horseshoes and curves until the river becomes a mountain stream cut by rocks and giant
boulders broken from the cliffs rising far above on either side. Leaving the auto parked in a grassy spot, we walk along the path, sometimes cut into the cliff and again built

as we lie on our cot our sleepy eyes look out at the Southern Cross or watch for the first glimpse of the lights
of Santa Cruz. Six o'clock of a morning is not early in the tropics, and when one has only two days in which to see Manila and

out across the stream, until we reach the reservoir, where the canyon broadens into a beautiful lake. The temperature here is cool, and the grand mountain scenery, with little of the tropical in its composition, easily suggests the

its surroundings, and friends are bound one shall see all that is possible in that time, it is none too early. By
eight breakfast is over, and, bathing suit donned, each one is comfortably settled in a native banca with a banquero at either end vigorously plying

Rockies or the Sierras or the Adirondacks.

By seven o'clock our launch is under way, the boys have placed a table on the forward deck and set our evening meal. The clear moonlight shows us our way as we follow the crooked river winding through rice paddies

his paddle, and in a bunch we are off to see one of the scenic wonders of the
world, Pagsanjan Gorge. The placid river is covered with rafts of cocoanuts. On the right the old town of Pagsanjan drowses in its nest of palms and bamboos. The hillsides are covered with cocoanut trees

and bamboo covered villages out into

the broad lake. The strains of music from the native orchestra, the swish of the water past

loaded with fruit, and every nut will buy one day's rations for the kind of
man that sleeps out his life on the quiet stream. But soon the prospect

670

THE MID-PACIFIC.

The Town of Pagsanjan.

The Old Pasig Church.

THE MID-PACIFIC. changes, riffles in the stream remind us of our fishing trips at home, the hills turn to cliffs, and Nature, in the profligacy of her decoration, vies with herself in giving variety to the vegetation. She at least has been immune from the curse of tropical laziness. Huge ropes of wines high up the sides of the Gorge hang pendant-like, and brakes and palms reach far over to cast their shadow on the water below. A group of chattering monkeys, indignant at . some fancied wrong, protests vehemently against our further progress, and brilliantly-plumed birds are

671

party, and after much climbing over rocks. the first fall comes into view, breaking into a lacy mist as it reaches the pool beneath. A more rugged and dangerous trip still farther up the narrowing canyon brings us to the second
fall, which double-leaps from far up the mountainside and blocks our fur-

busy with their domestic duties, while queer flowers are just out of reach on the shelving rocks above. The river, at first so placid, now becomes an an-

ther progress, but hints of other wonders beyond. A short half hour of mad racing down the stream, suffices for our return and only the marvellous skill of our boatmen is able to save us from the jagged rocks threatening us on very side and snarling up from underneath like ugly dragons. Drenched and happy we board our launch for the early tiffin to which we
do ample justice, and after skirting the fertile but little cultivated shores

gry torrent as it beats its rage against the boulders, and the need of bathing suits is apparent. The boatmen, fa-

miliar with every rock, are over the side in an instant and skillfully push the boat from eddy to eddy until the smoother water is reached again, leaving us wondering whether the exhilaration has equaled our fright. The dangers in the rapids soon fail to frighten even the most timid of our

of the lake for a time we tie up at the wharf at Los Bands, the week-end resort where Manilans go for the baths. The evening sun signals our approach to the Pasig river, and we slide under the bridges and through the canal in ample time to reach the steamer before she sails away.

The Beach at Passay.

672

THE MID-PACIFIC.

Wire Cable.

Landing in Sma ll Boats in the Surf.

Cruising in Hawaii
BY

PAUL M. CLIFFORD
H E Trail and Mountain even further and dares to hope that for Club has asked for a $25 $50 a Hawaiian cruise ticket may be sold cruise rate among the Ha- that will include a visit to all the islands, waiian Islands, and the besides trips to both of the volcanoes and steamship company con- an auto ride around Kauai, the Garden trolling the inter - island Island of the group, where canyons may traffic of Hawaii has ap- be visited that are as grand and far more pointed a committee of varied in coloring than are the better its directors to consider the request. known canyons of Arizona. There are two dollars and a half a day Should this cruise rate be granted both the Volcano House and the Volcano cruises by local steamers among the FijiStables, controlling traffic to the Vol- an Islands that tempt many tourists to cano of Kilauea, will grant reduced rates stop off at Suva for a while. From Sydthat will enable tourists and others to ney, Australia, there are various cruises visit all the larger islands of Hawaii and at the same rate by boats of from one spend a day at the famous volcano, for to two thousand tons to hundreds of isan inclusive rate of $35, while for $15 lands in the New Hebrides, Marshall, additional it is hoped that there may be Caroline, and Solomon Groups and to included an ascent of Haleakala, on the Borneo, the Celebes and Java. From Island of Maui. This is the largest ex- Auckland there are $5 a day cruises by tinct crater in the world, with its outer 3000-ton boats to the Tongan, Samoan, and Fijian Islands, while from Wellingedge 10,000 feet above the sea level. The Trail and Mountain Club goes ton similar monthly cruises at the same
673

674

THE MID-PACIFIC. then for an afternoon only, while on both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, he has
had his entire days of mal de mer. The channel is crossed in about two hours, when the steamer enters the placid

daily rate are conducted to the Cook Islands and Tahiti. And now Hawaii, it
is hoped, is to have a possible cruise at rates that will tempt both tourists and residents of Hawaii to become thoroughly acquainted with "the loveliest fleet of

islands that lie anchored in any ocean" The ideal cruise of the Hawaiian Islands would begin at Honolulu. The
largest steamer of the Inter-Island fleet leaves that city every Tuesday morning

waters on the lee of Molokai. The afternoon is spent sailing along the fortymile stretch of Molokiian coast. With the glasses the fringe of algaroba and cocoanut trees may be seen along the
beach. Further inland are the cattle

How Passengers and Freight are Handled at Some Landings.

at ten o'clock. There is a delightful sail out of the harbor and then along the reefs and by famous old Waikiki beach. Diamond Head fortress is passed and the
steamer steers for the twenty-mile wide channel that separates the Island of Oahu from that of Molokai. To some islanders whose excursions

ranches, and as the mountainous parts of the islands are reached and the green sides of the islands rise almost sheer 4000 feet from the sea, the wild goats
man who is a good shot and fond of goat stalking. At one time the island was the

that infest this region may be seen in the mind's eye. Here is sport indeed for the

out to sea have been limited to a thrilling voyage in an outrigger canoe just beyond the breakers, the crossing of the channel
is considered an event. The writer is not a good sailor, but on many trips about the Hawaiian Islands by local

home of thousands of deer, but they became such a pest that sharpshooters were imported to exterminate them.
Molokai is one of the most beautiful of the Hawaiian Islands. A small steam-

steamers he has been sick but once, and

er leaves Honolulu every Tuesday evening for a cruise around this island and

THE MID-PACIFIC.

675

The Coast of Hawaii Island. the equally beautiful little Island of Lanai ; returning to Honolulu Saturday morning, a three full days' cruise that costs fifteen dollars and is fully worth it to the good sailor. The boat we are on, however, is the Mauna Kea, the largest of the inter-island fleet, with immense bilge keels that give her a steady gait. She is bound for Lahaina, on Maui, and then on to Hilo on the big island of Hawaii. height. Somewhere up those almost perpendicular emerald cliffs there is an old native trail that the whites have been seeking to relocate for half a century,
for but a few miles away, over the mountains, is the metropolis of Maui, Wailuku.

The landing at Lahaina is made in the small boats. A crew of nearly a hundred is carried for enough natives to man eight large cargo boats are needed on
this cruise. For a couple of dollars you may be whizzed fifteen miles around the base of the mountains to Wailuku before

A channel but eight miles in width separates the Island of Molokai from that of Maui. Men and women still liv-

ing in Hawaii remember the days of their childhood when they were ferried across this channel in great native dugout canoes, that standing in the bottom
of which, their little chins but touched the gunwales. It is still sun up when the old Hawaii-

dark, or you may put up for the night at the little hotel facing the sea, and the following morning drive over in a more leisurely manner. The road through the sugar cane fields and by the sea is reminiscent of the Mediterranean lands. The drive between vast sloping barren Haleakala and the Wailuku walls of green is

an capital, Lahaina, is approached. Wonderful Haleakala rises out of the sea, straight ahead, her crest just two miles
above the waves that beat at her base. Behind Lahaina are the Wailuku mountains, precipices of varied green a mile in

unlike any other ride in the world. Wailuku is a pleasant little town nestled at
the mouth of Iao Valley, the Yosemite of Hawaii. From its center rises the Needle, a shaft of green that has been

A Typical Hawaiian Landing.

676

THE MID-PACIFIC.

Honokaa Landing, Island of Hawaii.

ascended by but two or three daring members of the Trail and Mountain Club. From Wailuku there is a railway to the sea and to the largest sugar mill in the world. From the terminus of the railway, Paia, the ascent is made by auto and horse back to the summit of Haleakala in a day ; a night is spent in the rest house at the summit and sunrise wit-

from Wailuku. There is a pleasant sail along the coast of Maui with stops at little ports where you are ferried ashore, or lifted out of the boat in baskets or platforms at the end of ropes and windlasses. The really scenic trip would be to leave Wailuku by auto and ride for
20 miles to the beginning .of the so-called "Ditch" trail. Horses or mules will then convey you over trails that cut in the em-

nessed in the morning, when the clouds pour over the edge of the crater and fill up the vast pit that is seven miles wide and half a mile deep. It is one of the
wonder sights of the world. It is possible to return to Wailuku in a few hours, or a journey may be made through the crater to the other side of the island. If

erald cliffs' borders, in places, on precipices one and two thousand feet sheer. The scenery is tropical, and at the end is a ride through the rubber plantations.
It is a day's ride to liana, at which port at the end of the Island of Maui, the steamer is taken for Laupahoehoe on the

a return to Wailuku is made, the port of sailing is Kahului, three miles distant

Island of Hawaii, about forty miles across the channel. By all means get off

THE MID-PACIFIC.

677

Landing at Hakalau, Hawaii. the boat at Laupahoehoe, if you enjoy thrills in traveling. The small boats land you, the steamer anchoring out beyond the reefs. The great rollers catch and carry the small boats on their crests at express speed toward the rock bound cliffs, the steersman using a long powerful sweep which suddenly brings the boat around just as you are certain she is about to be smashed to kindling wood on the rocks, a cleft opens in the cliff, and into this the boat dashes with the roaring waves behind. It is a thrilling experience, and the ride from Laupahoehoe to Hilo, thirty miles away, is one of the most beautiful anywhere, rivalled only by the Amalfi Drive in Italy and the UpperCorniche Road in Southern France. If you elect to continue the trip by steamer, .you sail by thirty miles of cliffs over which hundreds of waterfalls and cascades leap into the sea. Some of these waterfalls leap full fledged from the middle of the cliffs and precipices, for the rains on the lava beds disappear in a twinkling to form underground rivers. that flow beneath the lava belt. From the summit of the cliffs the green of the cane fields slopes up to Mauna Kea, a carpet of level green hundreds of square miles in area. Sloping above this is the eternal forest, which in turn is capped with white, for this mountain is nearly 14,000 feet_ in height and its summit is nearly always snow clad. At Hilo the steamer really ties up at a. wharf for the first time since Honolulu was left behind. There is a train in wait-

678

THE MID-PACIFIC.

The Landing at Kahului, Maui. ing to take the eager tourist to the Volvano of Kilauea, a few hours away, but the knowing ones spend a day or more about Hilo, spying out the scenic wonders of the land. It is not necessary to retrace your steps from Kilauea. After gazing at the for the Honolulu market, which port you

reach after a night's sail. The cruise tickets asked for by the Trail and Mountain Club include a trip
to and practically around the garden island of the groupKauai. This island is the most northerly of the Hawaiian group, and on the upper lands has what

everlasting lake of fire it is possible to ride

by auto or stage across the island to the port of Honuapo, and there board one of the inter-island steamers- for the return
trip to Honolulu. This boat touches at all the little ports for more than half way around the big island of Hawaii, and at Napoopoo, where the Cook monument stands on the spot where the fam-

is almost a change of seasons. Twice a week steamers leave Honolulu for Kauai, leaving the city at five in the afternoon
and arriving at Nawiliwili about daylight. The greater part of the island is skirted by the steamer, or autos may be engaged and a splendid day of sight-

ous navigator was killed, it is possible to engage autos at a cheaper rate than
any where else in the world. For a couple of dollars you may ascend by auto 1500 feet up the mountain side to the coffee and banana districts of Kona, skim

seeing spent ashore, in fact days and weeks may be spent on Kauai to splendid profit, for here are found many canyons
thousands of feet deep that may be entered from the table lands above or from the sea. There are the famous barking sands that cry like a dog when trodden

along 20 miles of mountain drive and descend to the port of Kailua, where the steamer awaits you, anchored off the old
royal residence of the ancient kings of Hawaii. Here or at Kawaihae you will have an

upon and there are spouting horns in the coral through which the sea leaps toward the sky in hundred foot bounds. Every
kind of tropic fruit abounds on the garden island, and there is no more ideal camping ground in the world than the mountains of Kauai.

opportunity of seeing how the island sheep and cattle are loaded on the boat

Once the Trail and Mountain Club se-

THE MID-PACIFIC. cures reasonable cruising rates for all among the Hawaiian Islands it will proceed to erect its rest houses everywhere, where needed, and the world will be invited to visit Hawaii and make itself at
home. The Trail ang Mountain Club purposes to establish itself in permanent

679

pick them up on the other side of the island at dinner time, after they had

tramped or ridden muleback across the mountain range. It would be also possible to leave
Honolulu on a Saturday afternoon spend Sunday encircling the Island of Maui and Haleakala, with possibly a

offices in the business section of Honolulu, as a part of its endeavor to ar-

range for all kinds of cruises among

the Hawaiian Islands. On the Island of Kauai the Club has an active member who every summer arranges for a young men's camping and tramping

picnic party up Ioa Valley, and still reach Honolulu in time for breakfast Monday morning. There is also the seldom visited Island of Lanai. A full
day could be spent on this island, one of the most beautiful of the group, but sparcely populated, and a circuit made

trip through the mountains of the Garden Island. It is planned in the future to charter, if possible, a steamboat for a week-end trip around Kauai,
as the precipitous portions of the island are never seen from the sea, save on such excursions, and it is not al-

of the mountain range after lunch before the night run back to Honolulu. A party of scientists are now visiting Laysan Island, one of the string of

bird-nesting islands in the Hawaiian group, north of Honolulu. A cruise of a week or a fortnight among these

ways advisable to cruise around the island in an outrigger canoe, which is the native method. It is easily possible to arrange for a
series of week-end cruises around the several islands within one hundred miles of Honolulu. Leaving on the

islands and reefs of the Mid-Pacific has often been proposed, and with the steamship company controlling the interisland traffic of Hawaii and the Trail and Mountain Club working together for the benefit of the man of moderate means but big ambition to

steamer late Saturday night, it would be possible to land hunting and tramping parties on one side of Molokai and

know the islands, the Hawaiian cruise should become the most popular voyage of its kind on the Pacific.

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THE MID-PACIFIC:.

Bird's-eye View of Spokane and Mt. Baldy.

Spokane an Example

BY

AUGUST WOLF HE story of a successful man is always full of thrills and incentive to the ambitious youth. The story of a successful city, in America at least, is an incentive to every other ambitious city to be a metropolis. In Eastern Asia the Russian Tzar has created fiat cities, in western America cities have sprung up like magic, at command of the people. In the mid-Pacific, Honolulu has studied the methods of

residents in general assisting those in the tributary country to settle their communities, helping them also to find the best markets at home and abroad for their products. It is entrenched in prosperity and fortified with the richest treasures of forests, mines, fields, ranges, orchards, farms and natural water resources, which means that it will never be dependent upon any single industry. Tributary to Spokane are vast stretches of highly productive agricultural lands, including 2,000,000 acres of non-

both worlds, the old and the new. The federal power is creating a fiat city at Pearl Harbor. Honolulu, studying the people's method has patterned after Spokane, in the State of Washington, and has her Hundred Thousand Club. A few years ago Spokane organized a Hundred Thousand Club ; 100,000 by 1910 was the motto and determination.

The year 1910 came and the census showed 104,000, and at once a Two Hundred Thousand Club was organized.
That is the American way and the example of Spokane may not be out of place

irrigated lands in the Big Bend and Palouse districts in eastern Washington, which produce more than 35,000,000 bushels of wheat annually, while thousands of acres of irrigated and non-irrigated lands in the valleys and benches, north and south and east and west of the city, are devoted to orcharding and truck gardening. The total value of these products ranges from $70,000,000 to $75,000,000 a year. Vast timber belts, including the largest stand of white pine left intact on this continent, are in the district. Cruisers

to narrate. Spokane, which now ranks 48th among

report more than 350,000,000,000 feet of standing timber, and at the pres-

the 50 principal cities of the United ent rate of cutting by the 400 mills-1,States, occupies a peculiarly strategic 250,000,000 feet a yearthe supply will position in the span of States between last 275 years. These forests would prothe Rocky Mountains and Puget Sound. vide sufficient lumber to build homes for It had the 180th place in 1900. It passed half of the nation. Within the same lim55 cities in 10 years, the increase in its are the richest silver-lead mines in population being 183.3 per cent. It is the world, comprising the famous Coeur the natural gateway to the Pacific North- d'Alenes, which produce annually about west, Alaska and the mid-Pacific islands. 40 per cent of the total lead output of The city has been made one of impor- the United States. Other metals, includtance in the western country by its cham- ing gold, silver and copper and tungsten, ber of commerce, allied organizations are profitably mined in the International and transportation companies and the Boundary country and northeastern and.
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THE MID-PACIFIC. the federal census taken the spring of 1910, should be near the 500,000 mark in less than 15 years. The population was 36,848 in 1900, 19,990 in 1890 and 300 in 1880. Nature has given it her best gifts in climate, scenery and natural resources and in gratitude the people welcome others to share. in these riches.

There are opportunities for tens of thousands in the country tributary to Spokane.
Summer in Spokane brings no sultry or sleepless nights, nor has winter any stinging blasts. There are no droughts nor monotonous rainy seasons ; in fact, no more beautiful spot has --et been

found upon which to build a metropolis. Surrounded by mountain ranges in which

nestle beautiful lakes teeming with game fish and whose forests abound with game, accessible in an hour's ride on steam and electric lines, Spokane offers A 15-Story Bank Building. central Washington and eastern Oregon and western Montana. Spokane's lack of water transportation

the dual attraction of the mountain fastness and of the thoroughly cosmopolitan city. Its schools are surpassed nowhere
in the United States, and there are numerous churches and opera houses, magnificent public buildings and modern stores and business houses.

is counterbalanced by the immense water power of its rivers. From the source to the mouth, a little more than 125 miles,
the Spokane River has a fall of 1200 feet, making possible the development of 400,000 electrical horsepower. About 100,000 horsepower of this is used in

The keynote of the progress of Spokane is contained in the following figures, showing what was accomplished in
1910: Bank clearings, $241,000,000 ; deposits, $32,000,000 ; building operations, $6,000,000 ; post office receipts, $500,000 ;

operating street cars and electric railroads extending into eastern Washington and northern Idaho, illuminating
towns and cities and driving drills and other machinery in the Coeur d'Alene mining district, 128 miles east of Spokane. The expenditures upon electric

jobbing trade, $32,000,00; manufactured products, $23,000,000. The city has entertained such important organizations as the National Irrigation Congress, 1909 ; the Dry Farming Congress, 1910, and the National Apple Shows, 1908, 1909 and 1910, which were

plants in the last three years amounted to more than $5,000,000. Spokane is the chief inland distributing point in the Northwest, due to the fact that it has extensive transportation facilities and raw materials in quantity, quality and variety within easy reach of

attended by thousands of delegates and exhibitors. It is the home of the Spokane Interstate Fair and the National
Apple Show. One hundred and five miles of street railway lines are in operation in the city proper and 350 miles extend into the

its doors, and with the development of the industries under way and projected, its population of 104,402, according to

suburbs and farm and orchard districts. Six transcontinental railroad operate their main lines through the city and dis-

THE MID-PACIFIC. trict, and there are numerous branch roads. Spokane's chief need is more manufacturing plants to convert the raw materials in the districts tributary to it into
finished products. The chamber of commerce is actively engaged in an industrial campaign affd is meeting with enget it.

683

Everything is in harmony with the setting and the city merits the name, "Spokane, the City Beautiful." The growth of the city began with the
completion of the Northern Pacific Railroad in 1883, and its progress has been substantial and rapid. In less than a de-

couragement on all sides in its efforts to bring outside capital and desirable settlers into the city and county.
The municipality has adequate water works, sewerage, lighting, incinerating and park systems, and there are excellent

cade, from 1881 to 1890, it attained a population, according to federal census, of 19,222, and in 1900 the official count showed 36,842. As authorized postal census taken in June, 1907, gave 77,584
population within the city limits, 7,500 in the limits since incorporated and 11,000

colleges, schools and churches, offering every advantage for the education of children. Architecturally, Spokane is
distinctive ; it is unique. Its people want the best and they have the facilities to

employed in railroad, logging and mining camps and making their homes in Spokane. The population today is well beyond the 112,000-mark.

Scene in Spokane Valley.

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Hawaii as a Summer Resort

BY

DR. A. KAMAAINA
S a summer resort, Hawaii remains alone and unique, the one spot in the world fanned by ocean breezes where it is ever eternal

mountains just behind Honolulu three thousand feet high and but two hours'
walk from the car line to the summit. There is a settlement of summer houses at an elevation of 1500 feet, within easy driving or walking dis-

spring, where July and January are like days in June elsewhere in the
world known to Americans. The Hawaiian Islands lie just within the tropics, and it is safe to say that they ii in const itute the ideal summerauir

the world. The thermometer in Hawaii never ranges above 85 degrees in summer, and the temperature of the water in the sea remains at 76 degrees the year
round. On each of the islands are moun-

tance of the city. The seashore is lined with open houses, mostly lanai or veranda. Summer weather, however, in Hawaii differs but little from winter weather. You secure the temperature you wish in Hawaii, unless you want something above 85 degrees, by going up the mountain sides until the desired temperature is reached. On the Island of Hawaii you can walk straight up
from Hilo to the eternal snow-line and build your bungalow there on government land.

tains from four to fourteen thousand feet high. On the Island of Oahu are

Summer in Hawaii is vacation time for the schools because they follow the
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THE MID-PACIFIC.

Bird Shooting in Hawaii.

American rather than the English custom ; everyone who can goes to the country for long tramping trips. one. The Trail and Mountain Club is cutting trails everywhere among the mountains, and these are much frequented, especially on Saturdays and

School teachers form in parties and go tramping through the mountains of Maui and Hawaii ; school boys sail their yachts to Molokai or Lanai and
spend vacation camping and stalking wild goats on the cliffs. School girls visit friends or relatives on the ranches and plantations, where they dash

Sundays. There being no snakes or poisonous insects in the islands, no one fears being lost in the forests ; it is
merely a matter of walking downhill until you get somewhere. Summer is the best time to visit Hawaii, for then the surf runs highest,

through the country on horseback, Hawaiian stylethat is, astridefor I doubt if there is a side-saddle on the
islands. Men and boys form tramping parties ; the writer has walked a hundred miles around the Island of Oahu in

the surfboard riders perform their most remarkable feats, and the native canoes come in before mile-long breakers. There is plenty of bird, pig, wild
cattle, goat and even deer shooting; the fishing is at its best, by rod and line or by spear and torch, either day

July without a hat. Hawaii is perhaps the only place in America where sunstroke is absolutely unknown.
The atmosphere being exceedingly dry, very little liquor is consumed in Hawaii by the whites, perspiration is absorbed by the air in a moment, and

or night, and anyone who has waded out on the reefs at night, in his shoes, and has speared the wonderful blue, crirrs 'r on, purple, red, green and sunlight yellow fish of Hawaii knows what real summer sport means. Then there is the sport of shark-fishing and

if wet by a shower, clothing dries almost as quickly. There being no malaria in the islands, and no malarial
mosquito, no one minds an occasional soaking. Clouds often linger about the mountain tops, but that deters no

shooting the flying fish as they rise in schools from the sea and skim through the air.
In the hills the youngsters gather guavas, cut down ripe bunches of wild bananas or search for the luscious

THE MID-PACIFIC.

687

Boating on the Windward Side of Oahu Island.

mountain apple of Hawaii. Then there is the hunting for land shells, gorgeous colored snails that live upon the foliage in the mountains. In some valleys only green land shells are found, waterfalls with perfect safety and keen enjoyment. It is never very cold or very hot in Hawaii, unless, as has been mentioned,

in some they are pink, in others red or blue, yellow, white or variegated. The collector can tell by glancing at

you ascend the snow-clad peaks or descend to the ever active, but safe, lake of fire in the crater of Kilauea.
The Hawaiian waters afford the safest ocean sailing in the world, yachts and catboats sail around and among the islands with safety, camping parties spend a week or more aboard small

a shell on just what island and in what valley on that island it was found. Sometimes he can tell with certainty just which side of the valley it fed

upon, the kind of tree, and once in a while he can be certain of the very
tree, for occasionally a species is exterminated until there is but a single colony left. Ask any boy or girl in Hawaii and

yachts that sail from island to island, and in summer time week-end yachting parties are common from Honolulu
to one of the adjacent islands, being the regulation outing of this sort. With a popular summer excursion rate in effect from Pacific Coast ports

he will tell you that summer is the time to visit Hawaii. If he is a collector of land shells, he will probably
end the day sliding down the mountain sides, old Hawaiian style, on the leaves, or if there is a suitable stream he will show you how to slide over

to Hawaii, these islands should and would become the popular holiday
grounds during the three summer months, of not only school teachers and college boys during their vacation, but of parents, from every part of the

688

THE MID-PACIFIC. health without giving a thought to either. Hawaii lies but 2100 miles southwest of either San Francisco or Los Angeles. In time fast three-day steamers will make the trip at express rates,
and the slower six an seven-day fruit steamers will carry those of moderate

States, who, while seeking cooling breezes for their own comfort, desire a summer resort where the young folks may rough it all summer long in an equable climate and a health-giving
land where the mountains and the seas touch each other, and the outdoor sports and exercises common to both

are ever at hand to entice those of both sexes and all ages to acquire vigor and

means to America's ideal summer land.

Bonin 'Photo

Sabocco
A Tale of the South Seas
SYNOPSIS OF PRECEDING CHAPTERS. Our young hero, Sabocco, is cast away upon an island of the South Seas that has become the rendezvous of pirates. He grows amid his wild, lawless surroundings, his constant companion being Dita, a Spanish girl of his own age, who has been brought to the island. The first steam vessel that he sees is the one that collides with the reef before the island while in full pursuit of the pirate ship. From the wreck a child, Heather, is rescued, and becomes Sabocco's protege. Heather and her mother are assisted in their escape by Sabocco, who hides them away and finally spirits them to a small and practically unapproachable islet. At first the three almost starve, until Sabocco brings from the big island two native maids, who to the manor born know how to provide a feast from native foods. Dita follows, swimming to the small islet. Dita attempts to make mischief, is exiled and returns in secret to give the signal that will tell the men from the big island that there is a safe landing.

The entrance to the lagoon was open, and of this fact someone had signalled the men of the island colony. Sabocco and Kanakanui stood gazing over the sea and down at the si-

lent, glassy water that was wont to rush and roar through the ram's-horn entrance between the rock cliffs. The boats were approaching, and they were well loaded with men.
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THE MID-PACIFIC. In vain Sabocco attempted to drag the form of the terrified but courageous woman under the sea. Involuntarily there was a struggling of the
limbs, and failure. The shouts of the men urging the

"In an hour," Sabocco sighed. "Not so long," answered Kanakanui. "What shall we do?" "The cave." "How will we get Heather there?" "Tie tapa over her mouth and nose, and the old Missie, too." "Come." And the two plunged into the lagoon and swam back to the little party that had been so merry a few minutes before. "They are coming," were Sabocco's only words, but one and all understood. "We go to the Cave, under water," added Kanakanui. There was a hurried gathering together of every kind of utensil on the part of the two native girls. Mrs. Cameron stood dumfound-

rowers on could be heard from the sea, and now a torch appeared on the cliffs above. It was carried in the hands of a woman, a young girl, who waved it to and fro to beckon and encourage the rowers. Sabocco swore. He would have leaped out to scale the rocks, but Heather's hand detained him. "What must we do?" "Get caught."
"Take Heather with you." It was the mother speaking. "No ; I won't go." Sabocco sat athwart the canoe, his

ed, while Heather drew near to her mother to comfort and seek consolation. "Sabocco, what shall we do?" asked
the child. "We must dive down under the big rock into Kanakanui's cave."

courage and ingenuity chilled and gone. The noise of the rowlocks could be heard. The boats were in the passage. A brown head arose beside the
canoe, and the strong arm of Kanakanui reached up and seized a weeping

woman ; there was a splash in the

"But mamma can't swim." "She's got to, that's all ; she's got
to," and the boy clenched his fists.
"And I will," answered the Scotch castaway, with a firm smile. "Come now then," replied the boy.

water, then a struggle. A powerful brown fist came down with telling
force upon the temple of the woman, and there was silence. Down sank the two, while the child shrieked in terror. The first of the long whaleboats was plowing into the lagoon and

"We've got only a few minutes to

teach you." Leinaala and Tofua were already

far out in the lagoon heavily laden, and preparing to sink with their burdens, to rise again within the cave. Kanakanui had wrapped a bushel of

a score of men shouting with triumph. Sabocco seized the frightened child,
placed a hand over her mouth, and silently dropped into the sea.
Down, down, he struggled and wriggled, Heather clutching at his wrist ;

taro in a mat and was preparing to dive. "Come, Heather," cried the boy, "I'll take you first; just shut your mouth
and sink with me. "No, no ! My mamma must go first ; no little girl would go before her

but the boy persisted, and now they were before the black mouth of the
cavern; air bubbles arose from the
boy's mouth, and he gave up, his strength was gone, but a strong right arm reached out from the total blackness, and neither Heather nor Saboc-

mamma. Get the canoe, Sabocco." So the three paddled out to the spot near the precipice at the base of which, far down under the water, was the subterranean entrance to the cave.

co knew anything more for a considerable period of time.

The cave was but one of the lava tunnels common to the volcanic islands of the South Seas. This one was

THE MID-PACIFIC. higher than ordinary, for the reason that here the lava had been emptied into the sea, so that in consequence a perpendicular cavity had been left
when the last of the molten lava had dropped into the ocean. There were

391

rough ledges here and there and, far up, a turn in tat cave that ran back a hundred yards or more. It had been necessary for Kanakanui to dive to a considerable depth to search for the children; in fact, he had sunk down to the mouth of the cave

with the intention of rising again on the outer side to make a search, but,
like all Polynesians, he swam with his eyes wide open, and the phosphorescence of the two strugglers had arrested his attention, and thus it was that

the two inanimate forms of Heather and Sabocco lay beside that of Mrs.

Cameron on one of the ledges of lava.

The darkness was total, and Kanakanui had neglected to bring either fuel or utensils for making fire. It was some hours before Mrs. Cameron regained consciousness, and a

dull, heavy pain from the blow she had received numbed her senses. Heather lay in the arms of Leinaala and was
sleeping. Sabocco, on regaining consciousness, knew at once where he was and called to Kanakanui, who reassured him, and he, too, after stretching himself out on the bare lava, slept

the sleep of exhaustion.

After many hours a faint shaft of light pierced the darkness far up the tunnel of the cave. All were awake now, and huddled together. "It is day," said Kanakanui. "I want to go out," cried Heather.

"We can't," replied Sabocco. "Can't we, Kanakanui?"

"Not now, bye bye go out ; come see," and crawling up the lava incline
the old native led the way to the pencil of light. Sabocco could see that it

came through a break in the wall of the cave. He was not prepared on reaching the narrow opening to find that it looked out over the sea. Straight up and down was the sheer precipice.

692

THE MID-PACIFIC. horn entrance might give the signal at any moment. But Kanakanui reckoned without liquor as a guest on the islands, and the men had brought gin for the celebration of their picnic. Angered at not finding those whom
they sought, they wire already beginning to carouse.

Evidently at some time the lava had forced a tunnel in the side of the crater, and when the fires sank, the outer crust had cooled, while the molten lava within had flowed out to the sea, leaving the great empty tube of
rock. The crevice to the sea was too small for Sabocco to wedge through, but with the assistance of Kanakanui

he forced some of the loose lava rocks to leap down into the blue ocean far below, and soon he was standing on a narrow ledge, the sky above, the sea beneath. The ledge, though narrow, was elongated, and on it, as on others above and below, nested hundreds of sea birds. The refugees would not starve. To Sabocco's delight, he found the ledge quite wide enough by several feet to form a perfectly safe - veranda
to the cave house, for the use of Heather and her mother ; a jutting shelf of rock above precluded discovery

Dita was leading parties here and there in search of those in hiding. Plainly she was puzzled at their disappearance. Suddenly the signal for the return rang out : three quick, sharp shots from a gun. The men turned, some of them reeling, to make their way to the boats. At the little group of grass houses they halted for a moment ; there were sounds of loud discussion, and suddenly thick smoke rolled up from the thafch of one little shack and
then another. Flames burst forth, and

from that direction. Sabocco looked out at the sea, and it was as calm as the night before, more calm than he had ever seen the ocean, while not a breath of air stirred. While Sabocco was examining his shelf of rock, the powerful hands of Kanakanui were_ tearing away at the lava rocks on the other side of the tunnel. He had succeeded in loosening
one square of lava, which disclosed a long, straight channel through the loose rock ; a crevice not more than a

the work that had occupied the islanders so long was doomed. Heather and Sabocco were watching the men. "Sabocco, what shall we do?" asked the child. "Build them up again," was the brief answer. "They are going now." The men, with Dita in the lead, disappeared in single file beneath the range. of vision of the watchers, who
saw them reach the beach of the lagoon before they were shut out from

few inches in width, but through this could be seen almost the entire inner crater of the island. The refugees were safe from attack and at the same time could watch, unobserved, the movements of their enemies. It was not long before the entire little party of voluntary prisoners was moved to the upper part of the cave, The firing of guns and the shouting of men could be heard, but no one of
the little party was seriously alarmed. Kanakanui had said that the intruders must make their escape from the is-

view. "Are they gone?" asked Mrs. Cameron. "Yes, mamma," replied Heather, "and Sabocco says there will never be
such a calm day again. It's getting dark." 1

Everyone started. The words of the child were true. All had been so eager to peep through the passage overlooking the interior of the island, that the larger opening overlooking the sea had
been neglected. Sabocco and the two native girls dashed out upon the ledge before the

land before the wind rose, and the sentinel left at the mouth of the ram's-

opening, and stood as if turned to stone. The sea that had been so calm

THE MID-PACIFIC.
was now a tumult of tossing foam for as far as the eye could reach. Far off

693

on the horizon lightning flashed and a

black pall was sweeping upward over the sky. "The hurricane," said the boy, and the two young 40rls turned and entered the cave. Quickly their hands

sought heavy pieces of lava with which to blockade the entrance, for they

knew the power of the wind in the Southern Seas. Sabocco and Kanakanui gave their aid, yet even before the
wall was finished the storm broke with a screech and a roar. A cold blast rushed in through the opening, and

work . was suspended. Sabocco turned to the crevice looking out upon the interior of the island, and before final darkness closed upon the scene he discerned the dim forms of men marching up from the lagoon toward the interior, and then the rain fell in torrents that formed an impenetrable wall of water. For three days the wind was king. When there was a lull, work on the wall was resumed, but the cave was filled with chilling currents that carried discomfort to all. It was the native food that Kanakanui and the girls had gotten into the cave that kept the little party alive. The taro was useless, for the stringent roots are poison until baked or boiled, and there was no means of making fire, but Leinaala had brought a calabash of poi beneath the waters and into the cave, and on this life was sustained ; the driving rain supplied a sufficiency of drinking water. The storm abated as suddenly as it had arisen, the sun came out, and the little party looked out through the crevice expecting to witness a scene of devastation, but the high walls of the crater had protected their island home. What the refugees did see was a file of bedraggled men and a young woman wearily winding their way toward the lagoon. What they did not see was the despair of these men when

they arrived at the lagoon and found their boats in splinters on the beach and a wall of water still entering and receding through the narrow, rockbound entrance. After such a storm

the heavy rollers without would last for days and weeks. The marooned men knew the sea in all its phases ;
they did not even look at each other, they merely turned once more toward the thick underbrush and the cocoanut

trees in search of food, for the want of which they were almost perishing. Sabocco was angry. He had learned to take care of himself and those whose destinies he made his, on the little island, but he did not believe that Kanakanui, with all his native knowledge and ingenuity, could keep them from starvation in the cave. It all seemed so hopeless. It might be months before the men could escape, and to live for months in the cave was
impossible. There was enough poi to last another day, and thenstarvation

or capture. Sabocco kept to himself and sulked. Heather was the first to ask for food, real food, for the child rebelled against the sticky purple paste they called poi. "Sabocco," she said, "Heather wants something to eat ; something nice." "What do you want?"

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THE MID-PACIFIC.

"Oheggs." "Eggs !I wonder" and the boy moved out on the open ledge over the sea and looked upward.

the face of the rocky precipice. Soon

his bare feet found one small crevice and then another, and in a few moments he was clambering over the

Seabirds circled aloft, and far up the cliff they lit from time to time. It was nesting season, and the goonies were just arriving. "I wonder?" and again the boy looked upward, but now he began to feel

bulging ledge above, at the risk of his life, and far up the precipitous wall. "Come back, Sabocco, I want you to come back," was Heather's command ; but the boy clambered on,
struggling and striving until at last

THE MID-PACIFIC. he found what he sought, a broken portion of the cliff where the seabirds

695

with many things, among them a

.nested, and in the nests were eggs. Furthermore, it was possible to

climb to the very top of the precipice and look down its inner slope into the center of the crater island ; and Sabocco was at ease. He knew the vines

length of vine that was wound in loops. Furthermore, he was togged out in the cast-off clothing of a man. The moon had risen. Carefully the
boy lowered himself over the edge of the precipice, over- the sea, and when the sheer wall of rock was reached he

that would hold his weight, where they grew ; he could go to the very places in the dark, and all he wanted now was
darkness. He had clambered up the face of the cliff, but to find his way down might mean another thing, a single misstep and that would be all.

placed his vine over a pinnacle of rock, bound the gun over his shoulder and lowered himself foot by foot. The
vine, held double in his hand, played out, he let one end go and pulled on the other, until once more the rope of green was folded in loops, and once more he repeated the experiment of

Sabocco crouched there among the crags, hour after hour. Once he assayed to wet his parched lips with the
white of one of the eggs from a nest near at hand, but alas ! it was a nest that had been deserted the season before, for when he cracked the end of

lowering himself, until at last he lay against the cliff, his feet hanging over
the jutting roof of rock that hung out like an eyebrow over the ledge before the entrance to the cave ; then, still

the large blue egg on his teeth there was a report as of a gun exploding, and Sabocco was covered with as vile
smelling a concoction as had ever assailed his nostrils. Moreover, he received a shock that nearly cost him

holding to the green rope of vines, he lowered himself, to find that instead of landing on the ledge, he dangled in
mid air, hundreds of feet above the sea. It was easy to slip down the double rope of supple green, but to climb up again, hand over hand, was

his hold on the rocks. All that he longed for now was the ocean and a bath, but the sun was setting and darkness would soon set in
with tropical suddenness. And as darkness did set in a bare head appeared above the rim of the crater, and in another moment a boyish form was

another matter. Sabocco called, but there was no answering call. He called again ; still
there was no reply. Sabocco's heart sunk ; he tried to look into the cave, but all was silence and desolation there. The cavern was uninhabited.

sliding down the slope and was soon lost in the absolute darkness of the Hours dense tropical undergrowth.
later when Sabocco reappeared on the crater's rim he was dragging behind him a gun, while his arms were filled

He glanced below, and there at the base of the cliff, on a narrow ledge, men were standing ; with them was a
young woman, who ,was pointing upward.

(To be continued.)

ae EDITORIAL COMMENT at
PAN-PACIFIC WORK.
Australia, New Zealand and Hawaii have endorsed, through their chief officials, the work of the Hands Around

ADVERTISING PACIFIC LANDS.

The pineapple has brought more people to Hawaii_ than has any other

the Pacific Club, of which organization Sir Joseph Ward, Premier of New
Zealand, and Hon. Walter F. Frear, Governor of Hawaii, have accepted honorary presidencies, with Percy Hunter of Australia as honorary vice-

one cause. Ten years ago there was no such thing as a pineapple 4qndustry in Hawaii. Today it ranks only second in importance in the Territory to the sugar industry. Two years ago the then struggling pineapple industry es-

president, and an active board of directors at the Crossroads of the Pacific, composed of representative citizens from each of the countries around the Pacific, who are now resident in Honolulu. The Hands Around the Pacific Club

tablished an agency in New York City and spent a hundred thousand dollars advertising through the American magazines Hawaiian pineapples_ This was the greatest promotion work ever done for Hawaii. It centered the attention of the entire magazine reading public on the fact that the

will work for a stronger feeling of fellowship among those who live upon the great ocean. It will work with the
Pacific governments to establish in New York City a Pan-Pacific Exhibition building and Joint Tourist Bureau, and will promote the project of

largest pineapple fields and the largest canneries in the world were located
in Hawaii, and that here the finest pineapples were raised. Tourists, investors and investigators began to pour into the Territory as never before.

a through-America Pan-Pacific exhibition train.

To discuss these plans further, the Hon. Walter F. Frear, Governor of Hawaii, and Honorary President of the Hands Around the Pacific Club, has invited Sir Joseph Ward and the

Australia is about to inaugurate in. America a campaign of advertising to

acquaint the western farmers with her wonderful irrigation projects in New South Wales. Australia will discover that such an advertising campaign, if

Premiers of Australia to return from the coronation by way of Honolulu as

guests of the Club at a luncheon, where the heads of the governments may consider definite plans for joint Pacific promotion work throughout

properly conducted, while it reaches and interests the western farmer, will
also induce many tourists and investigators in other lines to turn their faces toward Australia's shores. New Zealand tried the experiment

America. Sir Joseph Ward has assured the Club of his hearty approval of its
Pan-Pacific plans, while Australia has twice sent Percy Hunter to Hawaii to convey similar assurances. Directors of the Hands Around the

once of advertising profusely in' the American magazines, and was soon receiving tons of letters by every mail
asking for further information. Japan is preparing for a campaign of advertising in the States, and all around the Pacific there is a growing

Pacific Club are getting in touch with the governments they represent with
a view to having high officials meet each other in Honolulu to agree upon a definite working basis on which all the Pacific countries can agree for permanent Pan-Pacific work in America.

sentiment that from America will come the flow of people most desired by the Pacific governments. It is time that the Pacific governments united for a
joint advertising campaign in America, and Hawaii stretches Hands Around the Pacific to bring about this much to

be desired consummation.
696

END OF VOL. I.

CONTENTS OF VOLUME I.
PAGE

AinahauG. H. Tuttle 167 Americanization of HawaiiA. L. Brick 77 American Oil Tin in the PacificC. B. Estep 333 Among the Glaciers of New ZealandC. H. Hitchcock 615 Annexation of Helen Hudson, TheW. W. Thayer 133 117 Army "Hike," AnA. T. Woodruff 83, 191 Around the PacificH. P. Wood 141 Australia Through American EyesAn American Australia's National ParksJ. M. Giles 381 391 Birdman of Nuuanu Valley, TheW. D. Westervelt Boy in Alaska, AS. G. Plummer 375 529 California's First Fruit ProductsS. H. Bradley 65 Changing Status of the ImmigrantV. S. Clark 431 Cherry, The(Poem) 57 Chip's UloaAleka Poka 515 Cloak of Grass, TheW. W. Thayer 49 Coasting Down Popocatapetl A. H. Ford 565 Country Life in AustraliaPercy Hunter 673 Cruising in HawaiiP. M. Clifford Cruising Through New Zealand's Mountain ParkA. H. Ford 367 93, 193, 395, 594, 696 Editorial Comment 573 Fashions in Fiji and the South Sea Islands F. Starr 491 Feast and Famine in the South SeasH. F. Alexander 387 Flying Across the PacificJ. A. Williams 533 Geography from the Mountain TopsW. T. Pope 17 Halemanu, (poem)M. D. Frear 63 Hawaii, (poem)P. M. McMahon 685 Hawaii as a Summer ResortDr. A. Kamaaina 629 Hawaii for the White ManVan Norden 185 Hawaiian Floral CarnivalW. J. Cooper and G. H. Henshall 451 How Japan Is Americanizing ManchuriaA. H. Ford 651 In and Around ManilaJ. A. Fowler 559 In the Curio ShopsJ. R. Bisho 357 Japanese Home Life in HonoluluS. Sheba 165 Kaiulani, (poem)E. W. Wilcox 625 Kamehameha DayE. Dekum 528 Lahaina, (poem)C. W. Stoddard 173 Land of the Lanai, TheMyrtle Alexander 447 Little Bung Tim's Circus MoneyR. G. Thayer 433 Making Good in HawaiiSigurd Russell
7

CONTENTS OF VOLUME I. Continued.

PAGE

Mark Twain on the Pacific 96 Marvels of the UndergroundE. Rayment 643 Most Beautiful River in the World, TheH. F. Alexander 28 NapaliW. F. Frear 19 Naval Defence of the PacificSidney Ballou 403 Oriental HonoluluS. Sheba 45 Owls of HonoluluW. D. Westervelt 457 Pan-Pacific WorkOne of the Workers 421 Passing of Old Hawaii, TheA. L. Eakin 475 Passing of the Native DanceW. L. Collins 179 Pearl HarborA. P. Taylor 603 Polynesian Olympiad, AAleka Poka 503 Proposed Hawaiian National ParkL. A. Thurston 303 Rainbow's Birthday, (poem)H. J. L. Pinchon 463 Real Home of Santa ClausH. M. Polwarth 71 Restless Fishhooks, TheR. G. and W. W. Thayer 33 Riding the SurfboardDuke Paoa 3, 151 Romance of the Night-Blooming Cereus, (poem)P. M. McMahon.... 437 Sabocco 103, 345, 465, 551, 689 Scenic Thrills in New ZealandH. F. Alexander 521 Skiing in AustraliaPercy Hunter 11 Some Australian NotesAn American 489 SpokaneAn ExampleAugust Wolf 681 Strange Cruises in Strange WatersA. Marchmont 39 Superlative New ZealandA. H. Ford 127 Three Eastern EastersWm. T. P. Stewart 427 Trail and Mountain ClubG. H. Tuttle 83 Uncle Sam's Ocean ParkOlaf Hudson 339 Use and Misuse of National ParksF. Berwick 145 Voice of the Sea, (poem)P. M. McMahon 581 Volcano Days in SamoaA. H. Ford 583, 635 Waikiki, (poem)P. M. McMahon 364 Water Sports of the South Sea IslandsH. F. Alexander 653 Will, (poem)E. W. Wilcox 196 Woman in Peru, AG. D. Sedgwick 439

ENCYCLOPEDIA and GUIDE to

Hawaii
Pacific
Fully Illustrated with Maps

and Photographs

Abadie's French Laundry Afong, Albert F Alexander & Baldwin Alexander Young Cafe Alexander Young Hotel Allen 8s Robinson American Brokerage Co American-Hawaiian Paper Supply American-Hawaiian S. S. Co Arctic Soda Works Arlington, The Armitage, Harry Arts and Crafts Associated Garage, Ltd Badger Fire Extinguisher 'Bank of Hawaii Beaver Restaurant Benson, Smith & Co 'Bergstrom Music Co

Bijou Theatre

'Brown & Lyon Brown, Willard E -California Feed Co California Harness Shop -Campbell, A. J Canton Restaurant 'Cassidy, John Castle & Cooke .Chambers Drug Co

AGENCIES. PAGE 123 Alexander & Baldwin 137 Castle & Cooke 106 Cockroft, L. F 117 118 AMUSEMENTS. 132 Bijou Theatre 138 Empire Theatre 134 Orpheum Theatre 102 Park Theatre 139 Savoy Theatre 119 ARCHITECTS. 137 117 Harry L. Kerr 124 J. H. Craig Lord & Young 130 AUTOMOBILES. 135 Associated Garage 113 J. A. Gilman 122 Ed. Lewis 129 Empire & Owl Garage 114 Schuman Garage 117 Volcano Stables 137 von Hamm-Young Co BANKS. 132, 134 Bank of Hawaii 125 First National Bank _ 137 Yokohama Specie Bank 113 BAGGAGE TRANSFER. 118 City Transfer Co 102, 107 120 Union Pacific Transfer Co

PAGE 106 102, 107 - 102 114 114 114 114 114

129 128

130

124 124 111 120 124 109 117, 124 135 135 135 129 111

(Continued on last pages.)

THE MID-PACIFIC.

THE ROAD TO PARADISE

0 T twenty - one first-class passengers, at the same hundred miles rates, either to Honolulu or Kahului. from San Fran- The Enterprise, gross tonnage of 2675 cisco is the Par- tons, plies direct from San Francisco adise of the Pa- to Hilo, and carries 26 passengers at cific Hawaii. a one-way fare of $60.00. The S. S. The Oceanic Hilonian, every forty-two days from Steamship Co. San Francisco, touches at Seattle (fare sends the 10,000- $20.00), and from there to Honolulu ton Sierra every (fare $65.00). On the sailing vessels third Saturday from San of this line the San Francisco-HonoFrancisco to Honolulu. lulu fare is $40.00; length of voyage The sailing hour is 11 15 to 25 days.

a. m., and the fare one

way from $65.00 up, or the round trip $110.00. Every third Wednesday at 10 a. m. the Sierra sails from Honolulu for San Francisco. The trip is made each way in five and one-half days.

The Oceanic Company has made its reputation on its table and the regularity of the trips, the Sierra usually passing Diamond Head, coming from
San Francisco, at eight o'clock Friday morning. L. F. Cockroft is the agent

The Wilhelmina sails from, San Francisco every four weeks, remains in Honolulu two days, thence to Hilo, remaining for a two-day visit to the Volcano, then back to Honolulu for a two-day stop, and on to 'Frisco, an ideal three week's cruise at a cost of $6.00 a day aboard ship. The Wilhelmina makes connection at Honolulu with the Australian boats.
Castle & Cooke, agents, Honolulu. The American-Hawaiian Steamship

in San Francisco, and Brewer & Co. in Honolulu. The Sierra is, of course, equipped with wireless. The Matson Navigation Co. operates several passenger steamers between San Francisco and Hawaiian ports. The finest of these boats is the new 13,000-ton Wilhelmina, carrying 150 first-class passengers in 'mid-ship accommodations as luxurious as any on the Pacific. The Matson boats visit three of the Hawaiian IslandsOahu (Honolulu), Maui (Kahului), and the Island of Hawaii (Hilo). The rates on the Wilhelmina are from $65.00 up, one way, and $110.00 round trip. The Lurline, also a 13,000-ton vessel, with 'mid-ship accommodations, cold storage, and wireless service, carries 60

Company maintains a direct HonoluluNew York freight service, via the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. These boats carry sugar from the plantations in Hawaii to Salina Cruz, the Pacific port of the Tehuantepec railway, where transshipment is made, the vessels of the American-Hawaiian S. S. Co. awaiting the cargo sixty miles away at the Atlantic end of the Isthmian railway line. Very low freight rates are made by the American-Hawaiian Company to shippers sending goods from Eastern markets to Honolulu. The sailings are frequent. For further information apply to Hackfeld & Co., Agents, Fort street,
Honolulu, or the New York offices of the American-Hawaiian S. S. Co.

THE MID-PACIFIC.

HILO
Hawaii's Second City
Hilo is the second city of Hawaii and, when the Panama Canal is completed it may take first place. The center of attraction to the tourist is the Hilo Drug Store, on the main corner of the town opposite the railway station. Here the photo fiend can secure his supply of films and have them developed; here also he will be dazzled with the display of many colored souvenir cards. The resident knows the Hilo Drug Store as the standard place of its kind on the Big Island. A few doors up the main street, picturesquely named Waianuenue, is the photo gallery of Ernest Moses. Moses has a complete set of island negatives and an artistic display of scenic photos that attract the eye of the tourist. His pictures of the Volcano of Kilauea are in every home, and have been sent all over the world. There is one big department store in Hilo. The man who intends to locate in Hilo and expand with the city will necessarily consult with E. N. Holmes of the big department store. If he is a man he will outfit himself here, while the woman does her shopping for the home with this
oldest and best of department stores on the big island. It is interesting to the tourist also to visit this typical emporium

yourelf in Hawaii's chief city, build, and a written request to P. 0. Box 213 will bring a reply from the contractor who can best furnish estimates of cost. Hilo is lit by electric power generated from waterfalls within the city. The Hilo Electric Light Co. can therefore supply light and power at a minimum cost, and this is a consideration that means much to Hilo. The Hilo Electric Light Co. keeps in stock a full supply of Tungsten lamps and other money-saving devices to improve the lighting service. From Hilo there is telephone service around the island, the Hilo and Hawaii Telephone and Telegraph Co. are having free interchange with the telephone companies throughout the big island. From any part of the island messages may be phoned to be transmitted by wireless to the other islands. The cost of a phone in the house in Hilo is small and the convenience inconceivable. There are concerns in town whose sole business it is to help Hilo Grow. The Hilo Mercantile Co., Ltd., and the
Enterprise Planing Mill, are two of You these under one management.

of the Island of Hawaii. The marketing in Hilo is done at the Hilo Market Co., although many of the customers call up phone 30 and give their orders for island and mainland turkeys, chickens, beef, mutton, pork, ham, bacon, butter, and all the fresh fruits and vegetables of the season. The celery is brought from the volcano, 30 miles away, fresh every day. The Hilo Market, near the railway station, is one of the Hilo places worth visiting. Hilo is growing, and the energy of the young man is in evidence. Charles H. Will, the foremost contractor and concrete constructor in Hilo, is a young man walking on to success in his business. If you are wisely thinking of establishing

may order your house, from lumber to furnishings, from these two concerns, including plumbing and hardware. The big store of the Hilo Mercantile Co., Ltd., on Front street, is filled with every kind of general merchandise, and is well worth a visit, whether you are tourist or resident. The house completed, G. W. Lockington, also in Fort street, furnishes it from top to bottom. Lockington's is the most completely equipped furniture house in the Territory of Hawaii. He provides for births, marriages, deaths ; he furnishes palatial mansions or humble dwellings ; it is all one to Lockington. He has furnished the homes of Hilo for a quarter of a century and knows the needs of the country.
104

106

THE MID-PACIFIC.

THE STORY of HAWAII TOLD BY MAPS.

on this page, the courtesy of Alexander & Baldwin, tells the story. To speak of the sugar industry in Hawaii is to suggest "Alexander & Baldwin" as its pioneers to the mind's eye ; this Hawaiian firm r6presents to the world the agency for the Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Co., Haiku Sugar Co., Paia Plantation, Maui Agricultural Company, Hawaiian Sugar Company,
Kahuku Plantation Company, Kahului Railroad Company, Haleakala Ranch Company, Honolua Ranch,

Alexander Baldwin
Kauai, the "Garden Island," is the most northerly of the Hawaiian Group on which sugar is grown. The map

McBryde Sugar Co., a Swiss Marine Insurance Co., a New Zealand Insurance Co., a German, a British and several American fire insurance companies, besides that of a general Accident, Fire and Life Insurance Co. Moreover, besides the head office in the Stangenwald building in Honolulu, there are spacious Alexander & Baldwin offices on the mainlandin San Francisco, 426 California Street ; in the Pioneer building, Seattle ; and in New York
city at 82 "Wall Street.

NON6lVCV t &MA1 5 HOOL

Att5LA

AA1 to, 5+7 Acrot HigF;c Eievat3Qr 5k50 Feet' Insmnto from utu 981113s Poputotion anion Ilse, Pcopte kfition fele S4ag or Pl on Sustnr Crop for t907. 7441, In co

P 1PA4[1, AND COPYRI

WILLis T.PO

THE MID-PACIFIC.

107

CASTLE COOKE.
Away back in 1837 S. N. Castle and Amos S. Cooke came to Honolulu. They at once became partners, and in 1851 organized the firm of Castle & Cooke. The firm, and its business

grew with Honolulu. General merchandise was given up so that their attention could be devoted solely to the sugar, commission, shipping and insurance business. The firm in the summer of 1910
moved into the splendid quarters it now occupies, at the corner of Fort and Merchant streets. In the spacious corner office the business of the Matson Navigation Company is conducted, Castle & Castle & Cooke Building. tive business of Ewa Plantation Company, the Waialua Agricultural Co., Ltd., Kohala Sugar Co., Waimea Sugar Mill Co., and the London Assurance Corporation,

Cooke being its agents. In the Fort street offices, all on the ground floor, are the general offices of the firm ; here is conducted the execu-

Apokaa Sugar Co., Ltd., and the Wahiawa Water Co., Ltd. Here also is located the agency of the Fulton Iron

Works of St. Louis, Babcock & Wilcox Boilers, Green's Fuel Economizers. Castle & Cook, Ltd., are also agents in Hawaii for the following insurance companies : The New England Life Insur-

and Freeman Fund Ins. Co. (Marine). The present officers of Castle & Cooke, Ltd., which is a close corporation, with
capital stock of $2,000,000, owned by the directors, are Geo. P. Castle, president; E. D. Tenney, 1st vice-president and manager ; W. A. Bowen, 2nd vice-

ance Co. of Boston, Aetna Ins. Co., National Fire Ins. Co., Citizens' Ins. Co.,

president ; T. H. Petrie, secretary ; C. H. Atherton, treasurer ; L. T. Peck, auditor, and F. C. Atherton, director.

OAHU
(", P1rt3 cuorkIG of CD, 6Y
Pi 1. PUPS,

OAHU ,Slatalt
Slat Mks

59 8

Length of Island 96 WO 13,6..4 of is land 2S Ni,Ic5 tit IfQ014,4i 030 F }4 hat POOPIPSIall over 60000 Kyle Mot aot trome4Worn142 1 o0 files
lunge 1 No Ap411 3,400 KIPS
Ge 10

floro.ko.

1dos 191,

Road around bland

wirotIci 5tistem 1907. IlVt) Tons,

KAIIECV BAT

Or"(

or

IOEICP-E1ILO

108

THE MID-PACIFIC. THE STORY OF HAWAII TOLD BY MAPS.

The Island of Maui.

The Island of Maui is called the Valley Isle of Hawaii. And it is. Wailuku is a picturesque little town situated at the mouth of the famous Iao Valley, at an elevation of about 500 feet above sea level. The Maui Hotel at Wailuku is a
modern family and tourist hotel. It commands a marine view, with the Western Maui mountains as a beautiful background. The hotel is equipped with large and well ventilated bedrooms, spacious diningrooms, and the "Kapaniwai"is nestled in the very heart of the mountains, which at this point rise towering in the air some The port of Kahului is the beginning of Maui, so far is the tourist is concerned. Here he lands from the steamer and begins his exploration. The Kahului railway runs frequent trains to Wailuku and Iao Valley, to Paia, from whence carriage and horseback ascent of Haleakala is begun, and to Puunene, the largest sugar mill in

the world. There is a merchandise department of the Kahului Railroad Co., for home-making. Here you may outfit your house from top to bottom and
secure paint to burnish it up within and without. The merchandise department of the Kahului Railroad Co.

three or four thousand feet. Almost like an alpine home is this charming summer resort with its green lawns and blooming gardens of roses, violets
and flowers. Here one seeking rest is lulled to sleep by the sound of waterfalls and the rush of the Iao stream.

can fit up your bathroom in modern style, completely supply your kitchen, put in a private acetylene plant, and fit up your diningroom, bedrooms and parlor. If you are going to take or
build a house on the Island of Maui, this merchandise department can help.

LULU NORMAL SHJCt CALL OF Mit

ll AND coFYibq#3i t7

T POPr.

AA

MAUI
Statute Square lvtiies 728 en4th 48 M)166, Breadth Sts files
Highest Elevation 10032 Frier Largest Crater la theWorld Population over 25.000 Distance from Honolviv 72 Viler Eleven So5or Plqn`rtt3,15 Sugar Crop for 1901 .

106it 4Lns

THE MID-PACIFIC.

109

The

Island
Of

For Hawaii, direct boats leave Honoevery Tuesday morning at 10 o'clock,

arrive in Hilo at the railway wharf at daylight Wednesday, in time for an early breakfast at the Hilo Hotel, or you may take the train for Kilauea at the wharf at daylight Wednesday, reaching

cascades leap. The railway crosses deep gulches and tropical ravines, and traverses rich sugar plantations. Every mile
of the Hilo railway is of interest. There are two hotels in Hilo, the Hilo Hotel and the Demosthenes. The rates at the Hilo Hotel are : $4.00 a day, or

Volcano House, at the edge of the crater, in time for lunch. The Hilo railway
owns about fifty miles of standard gauge track, and runs daily trains to the Volcano of Kilauea, making connection with auto busses for the last 8 miles up the

$24.00 a week ; and at the Demosthenes : $2.50 per day and $15.00 a week. The Volcano Stables maintain auto
and stage routes around the greater part of the island and will send parties entirely around. The stage fares are : Hilo to

mountain side. The railway and auto fare from Hilo to the Volcano is four dollars one way ; the Volcano House rates are $5.00 per day or $24.50 per week.
Another branch of the Hilo railway runs daily trains to Pahoa, the Ohia lumber mill of the Hawaiian Development Co., and to Kapoho, in Puna, where the medicinal warm springs are located. It is expected that a small hotel will be located here at an early date. The Hilo Railway Company is now laying rails northward to Hakalau. This section of Hawaii, between Hilo and Laupahoehoe, is one of the most beautiful from a scenic standpoint, in the world. Ever snowcapped Mauna Kea, nearly 14,000 feet

Laupahoehoe, 28 miles, $2.50, a drive only rivalled in beauty by the upper Corniche road in southern France, and the
Amalfi-Sorento drive, Italy. A steamer for the island of Maui and Honolulu may be caught at Laupahoehoe. Another steamer port, for the boats that touch at the Kona district and proceed direct to Honolulu, is Kawaihae, a ride of 80 miles from Hilo, through a country of varied

high, slopes down to the sea, and then descends by steep precipices, over which

and entrancing interest ; fare ten dollars by the Volcano Stables busses, or horse and buggy may be hired for $3.00 to $4.00 per day. Mr. Wright is president and manager of the Volcano Stables Co. and can be communicated with by mail or wireless at Hilo. The Volcano Stables are connected around the island
of Hawaii by phone.

110

THE MID-PACIFIC. THE STORY OF HAWAII TOLD BY MAPS.

Fertilizing the Soil

HAWAIIAN PINEAPPLE COMPANY'S PLANTATION AND CANNERY (Largest in the World)

The soil of Hawaii is of a character that requires fertilization to a great extent. When one speaks of the fertilizer business of Hawaii, he speaks of the Pacific Guano and Fertilizer Co.

The majority of the sugar and pineapple plantations are supplied by this company. A very large concern today, the Pacific Fertilizer and Guano Co. is
the outgrowth of a small industry which followed the discovery of rich

of fertilizer. It gets sulphate of ammonia from England, nitrates from Chili, and potash salts from Germany, while tons of sulphur are brought direct from Japan to the works. It costs, ordinarily, fifty dollars an acre to fer-

tilize pineapple lands, unless it is the

fertilizer from the Pacific Guano and Fertilizer Co. that is used, when the expense is cut in half. If you need fertilizer for your garden or your plantation, call up Phone No. 1585, and the

guano deposits on Laysan Island. These deposits have been so depleted that the company now secures its supply from other Pacific islands, and at the same time it is a large importer of other articles used in the manufacture

Pacific Fertilizer and Guano Co. will gladly advise you, making a chemical
analysis of the soil, if necessary, and mixing the fertilizer in accord with the demands of the soil.

THE MID-PACIFIC.

111

At DAY IN HONOLULU
If it is your first trip to Honolulu,

and your stay is limited, it is best to send orders ahead by wireless for the day ashore. Practically all ships are
now provided with the Marconi wireless ; Honolulu was the first city to sign with the great inventor, in October, 1899. This Interisland Wireless

coats 25c, collars 5c, if delivered to agent at 9 a. m. and returned to ship at 4 p. m. If wash is retained three days, shirts 10c, white coats 15c, and
other rates in proportion. Phone 1973. Laundry, Kawaiahao street. If you have films, or need supplies, The Honolulu Photo Supply Co., Kodak headquarters, Fort St., develops and

concern is now a part of the Mutual Telephone System, and has wireless towers on the islands, from which
messages are sometimes flashed to 'Frisco. Everyone uses wireless for business and greetings between friends

prints for tourists within a few hours. All photo supplies, films, film packs, plates, cameras, island scenes, photographs, etc., always in stock. Developing 4x5 plates or film packs, 70c a dozen ; roll films, 60c a dozen ; printing, 70c. Fresh films packed in her-

on the islands. Order your luau a day or two in advance from shipboard, or make up your coaching or auto party and wireless to Ed. Lewis's Livery ; just "Lewis" will do. The Lewis Livery will have everything ready for you when you arrive. A party of six might have an auto for the entire day for thirty-five or forty dollars, or a large party might be made up for a tallyho ride to the Pali at a dollar a
head. Wireless to Lewis what you wish, and if you wish a reply aboard ship he will send it to you. Don't bother about your baggage. An agent of the Union-Pacific Trans-

metically-sealed tins for use in the tropics at no extra charge. The Post Office is located at the
corner of Merchant and Bethel streets, and almost next door, on Merchant street, you will find the magazines of the day and a full line of stationery in

the spacious store of Oat & Mossman, who make a specialty of supplying the
tourist with souvenir postcards for sending to friends, and reading matter for the voyage to the Coast or the

fer Co. boards every steamer at quarantine and takes charge of your baggage, charging fifty cents for trunks delivered to any part of the city, and
twenty-five cents each for smaller packages. This company also maintains a storehouse on King street, next

Orient. Visitors usually steer directly for the Post Office, and this is the last place called at by departing Honolulans, so that Oat & Mossman, being next door, have become the stationery
and magazine center to the man or woman who travels. If you are fond of cycling, the streets

the Alexander Young Hotel. And don't bother about your laundry ; the Sanitary Steam Laundry sends a man aboard for your clothes, and if you wish they will be returned to you within three hours, carefully laundried. The rates for work are : Undershirts 15c, nightshirts 20c, shirts 25c, white

and roads about Honolulu are ideal. At the Honolulu Cyclery, 180 King street, adjoining the Alexander Young Building, phone 2518, you may secure a bike by the hour (25 cents), the day ($1.00)
or by the week ($4.00). You may buy a new one from $25.00 up, or you may

have repairs made, buy a baby carriage, or have it repaired.

112

THE MID-PACIFIC.

1E8 OF NEVI OlD NNWAII

You have to look about in Modern Honolulu for the real old Hawaii, but you can find it. Even in the big Alexander Young Hotel a bit of old

for a swim, don't forget a bottle of Hawaiian Oila Niu (cocoanut oil) ; it absolutely prevents sunburn ; and then

there is Dole's Pineapple Juice. Only Hawaii possesses the secret of preserving the fresh fruit of the pineapple. The man behind the soda counter will
show you how to prepare with ice and drink to best advantage Dole's Pineapple Juice. It has become the island

drink visitors send home in bottles. Another bit of real Hawaii is Mrs. Annie Kearns' jam factory on Beretania and Punchbowl streets. Mrs.
Kearns likes visitors and takes pride in showing the native poha berry, the papaia, mango, guava, Hilo berry,

Hawaii lingers. Ernest Kaai has his Hawaiian quintette on the main floor,
and from Kaai you can secure, if you wish, for an evening party or luau (native feast) from one to fifty native Hawaiian musicians, who play the ukelele, as well as modern instruments,

tamarind and other Hawaiian fruits she turns into dainty jams in bottles.
You may see all these preserved before your eyes, or you may feast on the spot, and even then send home jars of freshly made Hawaiian jams. Presidents, princes, potentates have sampled

and sing native Hawaiian songsthey dance to vocal music in Hawaii. Over on up-to-date King, a door
from. Fort street, 'Sonny" Cunha, of the Honolulu Music Co., writes the real old Hawaiian songs sung by Kaai's Glee Club, now connected with

these jams, and they often send back for more. Kona Coffee means the real bean
grown in Hawaii. One firm in Hawaii, the McChesney Coffee Co., on Merchant street, makes a specialty of aging and perfecting the Hawaiian coffee

the Honolulu Music Co. Not only does "Sonny" Cunha turn out most of the
good Hawaiian songs sung nowadays, but the Honolulu Music Co. is headquarters for the ukelele and all other Hawaiian instruments, as well as for the renowned Knabe and other pianos.

bean. You may phone an order for a sack of this real Old Kona Coffee to
be sent to friends in the States, but it is better to call in person and learn something of this Hawaiian product, used in the States by coffee blenders to lend flavor to the insipid South

Another bit of real old Hawaii clusters about Weedon's Curio Store, 1140
Fort street, above Hotel. At Weedon's you see the real old Hawaiian mahogany (koa) bowls of departed chiefs, real stone poi pounders, real old tapa taken from ancient cave tombs, some

American coffee that floods the market. Kilauea crater is the one bit of real
old Hawaii that everyone wishes to visit. Those who

of the rare lauhala mats still woven on the Island of Niihau. A few stone adzes
and kukui lamps, royal kahilis, tapa beaters, and sandalwood ornaments are still to be seen at Weedon's, but these are growing rarer every day. In olden days in Hawaii the kahuna

can not make the trip wish photos. Ernest Moses of Hilo has made a
complete set of volcano negatives and is constantly adding to these. A

(witch doctor) cured or killed ; today it is a penal offense to use any of the charms of the kahuna, but at the Honolulu Drug Store, on Fort street, just above King, you may secure a real old Hawaiian salve, and if you are going

letter addressed to Ernest Moses, Hilo,

Hawaii, will bring an immediate reply regarding the wonder of wonders.

THE MID-PACIFIC.

113

WHERE THE PEOPLE EAT

In Honolulu you may feast like a British Sovereign or you may dine like a Kanaka King. You can order a dinner fit for the Mikado or you may sup amid oriental splendor in a palatial Chinese restaurant. Howlulu is unique in its restaurants. It was of "Nolte's" as the Beaver restaurant is still to the kamaainas that a New York magazine said, "Here on lower Fort street you will see millionaires and their clerks lunching side by side ; the lunch is but a quarter, yet this place is the restaurant most frequented by the wealthy business men of Honolulu who meet here daily to exchange ideas." Nolte's has been the down town lunch place for business men for more than a quarter of a century. On King street, a couple of blocks further up town, is the remodeled Union At the Palm every soft drink is served, Honolulu being a soft-drink town, and The Consolidated Soda Water Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort street, are the largest in the Territory and well worth a visit at lunch time. Aerated waters cost but little in Hawaii, from 35 cents a dozen bottles up. The Consolidated is agent for Hires Root Beer and puts up a Kola Mint aerated water that is delicious, besides a score of other flavors. Phone 2171 for a case, or try a bottle at The Palm. Another down town restaurant that has sprung into recent prominence is the Baltimore, next door to Gurry's, on Fort street. This is a resort for ladies who are out shopping and is much frequented by the guests of the hotels where board is not furnished. Here all the fruits and salads of Hawaii may be enjoyed, and freshly made poi, the national dish, is always on hand. The Baltimore is very convenient for tourists and those who are stopping in town for a few days. One has to travel fifty odd miles to discover a complement to the Young Hotel, but at the other end of the Island of Oahu is the Haleiwa Hotel, a colonial structure, beautiful in design as the surroundings are entrancing to the lover of outdoor life. Tennis, golf, salt-water swimming, boating and fishing are the diversions. Phone 1881 and secure a room for the night or week-end or a lunch. This is the favorite resort for auto, lunch and dinner parties, the run being but thirty miles by auto. If you are curiously inclined to try a Chinese feast, you need not leave Hotel street. Just the other side of Fort in the Oriental quarter and near the motion picture theaters is the Canton, where chop suey is served better than in any place outside the Great Wall. With this particularly fascinating dish comes other and just as delicious viands in The Canton is this establishment. open from six in the morning until eight in the evening. The second floor has been especially fitted for the entertainment of European guests. A notification in the afternoon will insure service for large parties.

Grill. Here you may have a lunch at any price and all the delicacies of the season, and if you have ladies in your party, there is a ladies' restaurant upstairs. Nolte's is patronized largely by those who never touch stronger drinks than root beer ; at the Union Grill beer is served, but it isn't root beer. The Palm Cafe, on Hotel street, off Fort, is one of the largest restaurants in the Territory and is usually well frequented at all hours of the day, especially in the evening after the theater and motion picture shows have dismissed their audiences. The Palm is the big popularpriced restaurant in the city ; it has its clientele of those who have breakfasted and dined there for years, and it is the resort of the malihini (new-comer). Here many lasting friendships begin.

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Amusements

HAT MORE thrilling sport than hunting sharks by day or perhaps shooting flying fish from a launch this is the great amusement t h e Young Brothers make their specialty. If you want to engage their services for either of these sports, phone 2551. For $15.00 they secure the necessary dead white horse, for bait, and provide the launch. Three makes a good party. The sharks are speared but why spoil your sport. After dinner in Honolulu everyone turns out to attend the motion picture theaters. There were a dozen of these in town, but all interests have consolidated, and now the best vaudeville talent and the best motion picture films are brought down from the Coast and the entertainments are of the highest order. A very large sum of money has been already spent in 1911, practically reconstructing the theaters that will remain open. New stages have been built, new scenery painted, and excellent orchestras installed. Some of the theaters are practically open-air, others almost enclosed. Don't miss amateur night, which takes place once a week at two of the theaters. The Bijou is the newest theater and latest word in motion picture shows in Honolulu. This spacious, practically outdoor theater, roofed only against the rain, occupies the site of the old skating rink on Hotel street. There is vaudeville, but the specialty of the house is clean travel films, films from every part of the world, endorsed by the education boards of the great American cities. Sam Kubey is the manager, and brings his films direct from San Francisco. The "Savoy," on Hotel opposite Bethel, is one of the newest and most up-to-date motion picture theaters in the city. The company has installed a powerful projecting lens, and the pictures are wonderfully clear. The vaudeville talent is carefully selected on the Coast, and as carefully weeded out at a trial performance in Honolulu. This house has sprung into prominence from the start. On Hotel street, adjoining the Young Hotel, Representative Joe Cohen has built the New Orpheum, an up-to-date cement structure, the home of comedy, light opera and vaudeville. The New Orpheum is open the year round, as its manager brings one company after another down from the Coast. The prices of admission are popular, fifty cents securing an orchestra seat. On Fort street there is an open-air theater, the Park. This theater is conducted by some of the leading business men of Honolulu. It presents clean vaudeville and good motion pictures. It is always crowded, "Sonny" Cunha's orchestra providing music for both pictures and vaudeville. A long, open shed shelters the holders of reserved seats from any chance shower. The Empire Theater, on Hotel street, just off Fort, is the largest of the kind in the city. This theater makes a specialty of its imported vaudeville artists, keeping a steady booking from the Coast. It also employs a man who keeps a record of all the films shown in Honolulu, and sends them away without using. The Empire was built under the new fire regulations, and is fireproof throughout. Cool air is pumped into the auditorium by machinery.

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115

HO W TO DRESS IN NAWAII

canvas Oxfords ; for swell street wear with white suiting, white buckskin Oxfords ; for mountain climbing and walks in the country, Regal No. 17 high-cut

boot. But it is best to drop in and look over the stock, especially if you are going on the Volcano trip, the Uniform
Russian Blue D. S. heavy-weight shoe being the one for this or the Haleakala trip. The Regal phone is No. 2043. The man's jeweler in Honolulu is

Perhaps there is no place in the world where the young man is so well-dressed and the business man spends so much money on smart clothes as in Honolulu.

The most-frequented shop in the business quarter of the city is the one where "Silva's Toggery" is the attraction.
Silva has spent a lifetime studying men's fashions in Hawaii, and in his establishment, just off Fort street, on King, next the Union Grill, you see displayed the

$1.50 or he will make you an exclusive design, Hawaiian if you prefer, at prices ranging from two or three dollars up to a hundred or more if you are fond of diamonds. Vieira will design watch

Vieira, on Hotel street, near Bishop and the Alexander Young Hotel. Vieira will supply you with a natty scarf-pin for

charms or enamel the Hawaiian coat-ofarms on your watch; and best of all he
will gladly suggest a piece of jewelry suitable for your wife or other member of the family. Mail address J. A. R. Vieira, 113 Hotel St., phone 2231.

latest Eastern fashions in ties and toggery. Drop into Silva's and hear the
kamaainas (old timers) discuss the latest thing in up-to-date men's wear ; it will be an education for you as to how they do thingsin Hawaii. The world over a man is known by his

The well-dressed man is usually a collector of canes, and knows how to select presents in these for his friends.
Frank Ferreia on Beretania street near Fort has probably the finest Polynesian collection of canes in the world. For thirty years he has been collecting rare and seasoned Hawaiian woods

neckwear and his boots. You don't have to leave the block to purchase boots that
mark the man. At the next corner (King and Bethel) the Regal Shoe Company has its splendid Hawaiian exhibit and show rooms. If you are a roundthe-world tourist, you have met or will

from which he turns calabashes and

walking canes. If you wish to see the best collection of this kind in the Islands, call on Ferreia and make your selection. The well-dressed man wishes his laun-

meet the Regal Shoe Store in every large city on the main street, with the best
display of American shoes in the town. The tourist always feels entirely at home in a Regal store ; it reminds him of the "Regal" in his own town. Of course, the Regal factories manufacture and send out to Hawaii special shoes suited for the tropics, mountain climbing and touring, as well as the standard makes for city wear and for the man returning to the States. You know the Regal prices, popular the world over. In Hawaii you will need for the beach white

dry carefully and tastefully done up by experienced laundry workers. In Honolulu the up-to-date laundry is the Sanitary Steam Laundry, with works covering almost an acre where citizen labor only launders the clothing from start to finish. It is worth while visiting this interesting establishment at Ka-

kako, but if you have not time for this call up 1973 and inform the man at the
other end of the wire whether you wish your laundry returned within a day, or that it shall go through the ordinary course, usually two days. (See p. 111.)

116

THE MID-PACIFIC.

BILL MOS IN
Billboard advertising in Hawaii is far in advance, artistically, of anything of the kind on the mainland. The
scenery and drooping foliage above the boards lends itself to dramatic and

GHIRARDELLI 5
CHOCOLATE for me

Advertising Co., controls all the billboards in Honolulu, and has made several trips to the States to study the latest designs in billboard art.
This is the up-to-date way of advertising that strikes every man in the

artistic effects, and in Honolulu the Hawaiians and whites both enjoy the picturesque on the big billboards. Charles R. Frazier, head of the Pioneer

face, so that if you have anything to advertise, drop into the offices of the Pioneer Advertising Co., King street, near Fort, or phone 1371.

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117

THE 1111UNDER YOUNG BUILDING

The AlexandPr Young Building is a city in itself upstairs a palatial hotel, extensive roof garden, business
offices, and restaurant; on the street, Cafes, Cable office, Tourist Bureau, Public

Library, stores of every From the corner kind. of Hotel street to the arcade entrance to the hotel elevators extends the very
spacious Alexander Young Cafe, the most popular restaurant of the city.

modern bound volumes and all the up-

to-date books of the day.

To the left of the hotel entrance as you go out to the street is the floral establishment of Mrs. Ethel M. Taylor. Mrs. Taylor raises her own roses,
orchids and native ferns at her nursery in beautiful Nuuanu avenue. Her's is the one "swell" floral establishment

You do not have to step outside of Brown & Lyon's to visit the Arts and Crafts Store, for these two establish-

ments have, seemingly, been thrown into one. All the art works of foreign and native painters may be studied, or
purchased, here ; as well as sketches of island scenes and photos and the choice paintings made on the islands by well-known artists. If you are an

in Honolulu, and few florists on the

mainland can show a greater variety of rare plants and flowers. A visit to her spacious establishment, with its extensive collection of flowers and
Hawaiian curios, is well worth while. Next to Mrs. Taylor's is the Tour-

amateur photo artist, the Arts and Crafts will finish up your work, color, mount and frame your pictures in the most approved and artistic manner.
The Cable office occupies the next space, and next to that the splendid

ist Information Bureau. The next, a big double store, is that of the Coyne Furniture Co., and here may be studied all the latest importations in furniture from the Coast. This is the largest establishment of its kind in Honolulu, and has a factory as well

public library, free reading room' and Coast papers. The next entrance is to the elevators that run up to the roof garden, rooms of the hotel, and the
business offices. The spacious corner of the Alexander Young Building, facing Bishop and King streets, is occupied by the

as storehouse near by. The Coyne furniture store is worth

a visit from the tourist as well as from the resident. You may outfit a palace in furniture, or you might hire chairs and tables for a modern luau. Next is the establishment of Brown & Lyon, the most comprehensive book

display rooms of the von HammYoung Co. Here you may study every possible auto appliance, power machinery, or, if you choose, visit the
wholesale cloth department. Step outside into the arcade, and you will find

store in the city. A day might be spent examining the bound art treasures and
the volumes on Hawaii and the Pacific, to say nothing of the great stock of 8

the garage ; here you may store your machine, buy a new one, or rent an auto by the hour, day, or month. You can not well help making the
Alexander Young Building your headquarters in Hawaii.

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THE MID-PACIFIC.

The Hotels of Honolulu

SEASIDE HOTEL

MOAN A HOTEL

N Honolulu any east bound car of the splendid electric

WAIKIKI

rapid transit system takes you direct to Waikiki beach, the home of the Hawaiian surfing canoe, Phone from the wharf to the Moana Hotel and engage a canoe and
the " Hui Nalu " for a ride before the great long rollers. The rate for each passenger for this most thrilling sport in the world, "surfing," is one dollar

newcomer, learns to ride the surfboard, and on shore the resident at the Seaside has a ten-acre cocoanut grove, long the abode of royalty, in which to roam at will, or he may play tennis under the palms. He may occupy a cottage to himself, or only a room. The rates are moderate for such a hotel, from $2.59 a day up ; $60.00 a month ; American plan. Just toward the city from Kapiolani
park is Waikiki Inn, adjoining the summer residence of ex-Queen Liliuokalani

per hour. The Moana, the famous Alexander Young and the Royal Hawaiian Hotel are all owned by the Alexander Young
interests and are conducted as modern palatial tourist hotels. J. H. Hertsche is general manager of the three hotels.

and facing the "Queen's" surf, where the most daring surf riders disport themselves. The bathing is excellent in front of the Inn. Meals are served at fifty cents
each, board by the week is ten dollars. (See map, page 126.) On the other side of the military reservation, toward Honolulu, on Kalia road,

The rates at the Moana, American plan, are $4.50 a day; the rates at the Alexander Young are $2.00 a day up, European plan, and the rates at the
tropical Royal Hawaiian Hotel are $1.50 a day, European plan. Of the Alexander Young Hotel,

are the Cassidy cottages and main home hotel. The row of cottages extends
down to the beach ; the fishing and bathing are excellent. Ten dollars a week. This is the place ideal for anyone who loves outdoor life and the sea. Phone

which extends for the length of Bishop street, Van Norden's Magazine for August said : "Alexander Young, the many-time millionaire of Honolulu,
built as his monument a hotel that is equal to any in appointment found in

2879, and for location see map on page 126. Mrs. Gray's (The Gray), on King
street, just above Thomas Square, caters to a select patronage of permanent

London or New York, and with a roof garden more spacious than any on the continent." It is in front of the beautiful Seaside Hotel at Waikiki that the malihini, or

guests. This home hotel is delightfully located in a tropical garden, within easy walking distance of the city. The King street cars to the city and to Waikiki
pass the doors. Rates, $40 per month. Mrs. L. M. Gray, proprietor. Phone 2272.

Vida Villa

MacDonald

Hotel Arlington

Shady Nook

Probably no city in the world is so fortunate as Honolulu in the possession

of palatial home hotels. The best are : VIDA VILLA, a number of cottages and a spacious house in a luxurious garc'en of palms, is located at 1040 King

to-date barber shop in Hawaii, that of Joseph Fernandez, who is the manager
Rooms only $20.00 a month, $6.00 per week, $1.00 per day. TelephoneSilent Barber Shop-1727. THE LELAND, 627 Beretania St., near

street, where cars pass every five minutes toward the business center, or toward Waikiki beach. Rates per day, $1.50;
by the month, $35.00 up. This home hotel is within walking distance of "down town." Mrs. G. S. Evans is proprietor of this beautiful property. Phone 1146. THE MACDONALD is situated in the

Punchbowl, Mrs. H. Dinklage, Proprietor, is a pleasantly located, roomy

home, where rooms with or without
board are offered. Newly furnished rooms from $10.00 a month; room and board $35.00; by the week $9.00. The

fashionable Punahou quarter, a stately colonial building at the end of a double

row of royal palms. On Punahou street, adjoining the Governor's residence, the Macdonald is convenient to either the Hotel street or Wilder avenue car lines.

location is pleasant, but a few minutes' walk from the business center,

and on the car line. Phone 1308.

Two of the best rooming and apartment houses in Honolulu are managed by A. C. Montgomery, the steward of the Pacific Club. At 1269 Fort there

The rates are: $2.00 per clay, $14.00 per week, $60.00 per month and up. Mrs. Margaret Macdonald, proprietor.
THE DONNA, 1262 to 1286 Beretania

is a row of delightful cottages, shaded by an avenue of palms ; furnished rooms from $10.00 a month up. At
No. 1178 Fort street, The Model, next the Japanese Consulate, has great, roomy suites of two rooms, excellently furnished, at $20.00 a month up. You may call, or phone to No. 2505.

avenue, is Honolulu's newest apartment hotel, and is conducted by Mrs. C. J. McCarthy. These several cottages afford

a splendid opportunity for families desiring exclusiveness. The houses are

built so as to divide into two or more apartments, each with hot and cold baths. The phone number of the Donna is 2480. THE MAJESTIC is the down-town home

THE NUUANU, one of the most attractive places, is at 1634 Nuuanu avenue,
third house above School street a family boarding house of more than usual attraction, in a park of about three acres, consisting of one main building and three cottages. The beau-

hotel, in the very heart and business center of the city, at the corner of Fort and Beretania streets. A splendid solid stone
structure, with cool, spacious rooms. All cars pass the doors. Rooms, $1.00 per day, $10.00 per month up. A place for those who wish to dine at the restaurants. Mrs. Cora A. Blaisdell, phone 2744.

tiful Waikaha waterfall and swimming pool is three minutes' walk, a charming
place where lovers of water sports take a delightful plunge. Rates $2.00 a day, $12.00 a week. Telephone 1428. THE SHADY NOOK, Mrs. M. F. Har-

(See map, page 126.) Hotel Arlington, down-town on Hotel street near Fort, is largely lanai. The
rooms face on a long veranda over the street. Hot and cold baths are provided for the roomers, and the Palm restaurant is directly opposite. The New Arlington

rub proprietor, phone 1333, is located on Beretania street, 1049-50, near the
College of Hawaii. There are three houses, all in shady groves, where tropical fruit trees are grown for the patrons of The Shady Nook. The rates are from $10.00 a week up, and

is directly over the largest and most up-

$35.00 a month up.

The Leland

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THE MID-PACIFIC.

THE TOURIST

window decorations are by a well-known Japanese artist visiting in Honolulu. Throughout the taste displayed in the bazaar is such as attracts every visitor.
Adjoining the Nippon Bazaar is the great china and outfitting house of Hawaii, that of Dimond & Co. Here you

may secure real souvenir china of Hawaii, decorated with stenes on the islands. There are souvenir spoons and many interesting novelties designed to
tempt both tourist and resident. There is also an entrance to Dimond's from

All roads lead to Rome, if you are in Europe ; in Hawaii, all 'roads lead to Chambers Drug Store, at the corner of
Fort and King streets, Honolulu. Here, where the main street car lines intersect, the shoppers and business men wait for

the alley that leads to the postoffice, and the tourist will do well to pass through the establishment before he returns to his ship. There are many travelling conveniences carried by Dimond. One of these is an aluminum, canteen, that carries two quarts and fits snugly to the body. There are four interesting floors

their cars. Usually they count on miss-

ing a car or two while they sit and chat at the open soda fountain that the Chambers Drug Company has placed before
their spacious open doorway on the corner. At Chambers' drug store the bewildered tourist of the day from the big

at Dimond's with useful goods and

liners is set straight, introduced to Dole's

bottled pineapple juice, the drink of the country, advised as to the sights of the city, supplied with any perfumes, candies or drugs he may need during his stay, and made to feel at home. Two doors away on King street the

choice art treasures on each. Across the street from Dimond's is the Island Fruit Co. headquarters. It will pay you to visit the Island Fruit Co., 72 S. King St., sharing the office of WellsFargo Express. Here you may order for friends on
the mainland breadfruit, alligator pears, mangoes, and every kind of native fruit. They will be rushed through to delivery in

tourist who follows the local crowd finds at Wall-Nichols' the newest magazines and reading matter from every quarter
of the globe. Wall-Nichols' is a sort of re-outfitting shop for the tourist of the day from the big liners, and the constant resort of the magazine fiend resident in New York, the young lady in

any part of the United States. If you wish to see all these fruits growing on the trees, call up 2213, the Empire and Owl Auto Garage, with a stand at Hotel and Bethel streets, and a garage where work on magnetos and

search of the latest things in books or stationery, and at Xmas time of everyone on the lookout for the unique for
the grown folks and toys for the children. Next door to Wall-Nichols' is the publication office of the Advertiser, and next

carburetors is a specialty. You may have a seven-seated auto at $4.00 per hour, or go around the island for $5,
in a party of four or more. J. E. Johnson is proprietor, and if you wish to see the Oriental quarter, day or night, call phone 2213 and do it by auto.

to that the daintiest Japanese bazaar outside of Japan. Editor Sheba, of the two
daily Japanese newspapers, has fitted out the bazaar with the daintiest bits of china and bronzes from Dai Nippon.

There is an ideal Japanese tea room, with sliding paper doors, and a balcony with ballustrades carved in Japan. The

If you prefer a rig or horseback riding to the auto, the Club Stables are to be found on Fort street, above Hotel ; the phone number is 1109. The Club Stables will give you a special rig to the Pali, $4.00 for one person, or it will provide a tallyho for entire day for a party at a rate of two dollars each passenger. The "Club" is the largest livery in Hawaii.

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121

THE SHOPPING DISTRICTS.

The largest and most complete dry goods store in the
city is that of B. F. Ehlers & Co., on This Fort street. firm makes a specialty of ladies' ap-

parel and of bringing the latest fashions to Hawaii.

The year round silk and woolen suits, skirts, waists and all the wearing apparel of women are rushed

through at frequent intervals from New York by Wells Fargo Express, being only twelve to fourteen days in transit, so that the fashions on Fort street
are only a few days behind those of Broadway.

Across the way at 1045 Fort street, Whitney & Marsh, the foremost children's and ladies' furnishing house,
make a specialty of fine lingerie and children's clothing. Matrons find every style in fashionable wear brought direct from Paris and New York. It is

mense variety of groceries carried by this leading supply store of the city. Henry May & Co. make a specialty of their fine roasted Kona (native) coffee,

and have established a coffee mill and steam roaster ; but all of. the edible products of Hawaii are displayed, to
say nothing of an exposition-like array in the two big adjoining stores of canned goods from California and every part of the United States and

here, too, that the Ladies Home Journal patterns are kept in stock. Whitney & Marsh make a specialty of providing French hand-made underwear
and dresses for the gentler sex and for children. You may call, or even phone No. 1725, for what you wish.

Europe. Jordan's next door is the store of bargains in silks, besides every kind of

Next door is the big edition de lux shoe store. You can not escape the Manufacturers' Shoe Co. Store if you
are on Fort street. It is the prominent feature of the busy, fashionable shopping block. Here every kind of shoe that is made for men, women and

women's wear and notions. The store has just been remodeled and the finest display windows put in position, so that they have become THE attraction on the

Waikiki side of Fort street. There is usually a sale in progress, for this oldest store in Honolulu has become the most
enterprising and up-to-date under a new management that is all energy and judgment. The McCall patterns are always in stock at Jordan's which is becoming

children is kept in stock, especially the fancy kids and dancing shoes dear to
womankind. The fashionable grocery store of Henry May & Co. occupies the entire middle of this block. It takes time for a

the place to visit for both tourists and old residents. It is like a bit of Newer Paris to stand on the sidewalk in front
of Jordan's and study the latest fashions in hats or the latest New York

newcomer to know and realize the im-

fashions on lay figui es that are lifelike in the extreme.

19 )

THE MID-PACIFIC.

HONOLULU'S BUSY CORNERS.

You must go to the Broadway and 23rd street section of Honolulu to find the leading soda fountain, drugstore, Lhe big curio palace and souvenir factory,
but here at Hotel and Fort streets, where the car lines cross each other, are the famous lei women, bedecked with native

coats-of-arms in enamel and creating a hundred different finished products reminiscent of the Islands. This is the modern part of Culman's. The
tapas, calabashes and native matting are all made by the native Polynesians in their own primitive ways. If

flowers and seated Hawaiian style on the pavement. It is the sight of the town, and here at these four busy corners of Hotel and Fort streets the throng of shoppers and sightseers linger longest. "Meet me at Benson-Smith's Soda Fountain," is the parting salutation of friends in Honolulu. This, to a young lady, signifies of course a box of French bonbons after the soda ; to every one the salutation recalls the corner of the business town where social amenities are exchanged in the big drug store. It is a big drug store and an important one.

you are interested in Polynesian curios, enameled jewelry, and silverware, this is the place to spend an hour or so. Hundreds of different Hawaiian
picture post cards in colors are kept in racks, and you may pick out those you

wish and mail them to friends without leaving the store, or if you wish anything in stock, or enamel work, Hawaiian coins enamelled and made into hatpins, bracelets or ornaments of any kind, leave your
order and they will be mailed to you at any given address. If you have forgotten any desired curio before sailing, use

The head of the firm, Geo. W. Smith, was for years president of the Merchants' Association, and the firm itself one of the bits of the history of Honolulu. If you are in a hurry for some standard remedy, the phone number of Benson-Smith's is 1297. Across Fort street, where the lei women line the sidewalk with their baskets of gorgeous flowers, Culman's curio
store occupies the spacious corner. Here every conceivable Hawaiian souvenir is displayed, and an elabor-

the phone at the wharf and give your order ; Culman's phone number is 1483. Next to Culman's is "Gurrey's." This Art and Photo Shop is the home of the Hawaiian Roycroftes, where you can see the work of the leading artists of the Islands, small views, native types and surfriders and other objects of art. Besides being the leading art shop, they are agents for the
Ansco Cameras and Cyko Paper, with a developing and printing department that cannot be excelled. Culman, Benson Smith, Gurrey and

ate factory is kept going at full force all the time manufacturing Hawaiian

the lei women monopolize the busy corners of Fort and Hotel streets.

Lei Women at the Busy Corner.

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123

SHOPPING IN HONOLULU
Everyone visits the Convent and Cathedral. Sachs, at the corner of Fort and Beretania, 7511 IA I iagonally opposite the Cathedral, is dedicated to the fair sex. Sachs's great building dominates Fort street. Here every need of woman is carefully and thoughtfully provided for. There is a perfectly equipped millinery department to select

from. Also, there are fine dress goods from the Eastern mills, and pina, or silk made from the fiber of pineapple, nearer
home ; tapestries from far

France ; laces from Belgium. The millinery establishment of Mrs. C. L. Dickerson i s next door, on Beretania St., in same building. The best people in town patronize it Do likewise. Nor if vou wish your dress goods made up by a fashionable dress maker do you have to step out of the building, for next door to Sachs's on Fort street is the swell establishment of the Misses Kruse & Lux, also patronized by Sachs. Diagonally across from the Sachs building is the establishment of Mrs. Doris E. Paris. This is the ultra fashionable hair dressing parlor in Hawaii. It is the place to prepare for the fitting of a new gown or bonnet in this fashionable district. There are several private hairdressing p a r l or s, a manicure artist, and a display of hair and artistic hair combs that are worth going far to see. Mrs. Paris carries a full line of toilet Phone your enarticles. gagement for hairdressing; the number is 2091.

Sachs's and Dunn's have had everything to do with making this the fashionable shopping quarter. Dunn's Hat Shop, next the Convent, has done more, perhaps, than any other one cause to turn the tide of fashion up Fort street above Hotel. It is doubtful if there is any finer display of women's hats and artificial flowers in New York city or Paris itself than is to be seen in the spacious display windows of Dunn's. The hats and flowers are Parisian, brought to New York by a friend of the proprietor, who is the leading millinery importer of the great city ; thus the Dunn Hat Shop in Honolulu gets the very cream and moreover, connected with the
Dunn Hat Shop is the only real

factory of millinery goods in Honolulu. You should step into Dunn's. Near by is The Curio Den, a popular-priced souvenir store, 1119 Fort

street, owned by Fred N. McNamarra, carrying the finest line of Native work and Curios in the city. Calabashes (food bowls) both machine and old hand-made ; beautiful grained woods, tapas, Hawaiian jewelry, war clubs, hats, fans, seed and feather work ; and his stock of fiber work is unsurpassed. A mail trade is encouraged. Woman asks, "Where shall I find the best laundry?" There is one first-class laundry in Honolulu, that of John Abadie and his wife, both French. Call up Abadie on the phone. and he will do the rest. The number is 1491. King near Alapai St.

124

THE MID-PACIFIC.

THE LAND OF THE AUTO

There are about six hundred automobiles in Honolulu. It costs from eight to thirty dollars to transport an

auto from one island to another, and on every one of the islands the auto most suited for the country is being eagerly sought after. The first successful automobile built in America was the Haynes; this machine, after sixteen years, has become the most upto-date, and its adaptability to the requirements of Hawaiian usage has induced Joseph A. Gilman to bring the machine to the islands. The Haynes
Model 20, for 1911, sells at $2000. About four million dollars' worth of these machines were sold in four weeks after they were placed on the market

These are exhibited in the big garage shed of the Associated Garage, Ltd. (E. O. Hall & Son, Ltd., proprietors), on Merchant and Bishop streets. T. Seymour Hall is manager. The Schuman Carriage Co., Ltd., is not only agent for the Studebaker wagons and carriages, but handles such well-known cars as the Locomobile, E. M. F. Studebaker, Ford, Corbin and Velic. If you want buggies, harness, whips, auto supplies, farm and lumber
wagons, plows, planters, cultivators, harrows, harvesters, mowers, threshers, engines, live stock, auto tires and

mers-Detroit, and the Hudson, each the best auto in its particular class.

in the States. If you wish to know all about them call up J. A. Gilman, or drop into the show rooms, Fort street.
Von Hamm-Young Co. is sole agency in Hawaii of the famous Packard, which they offer in the various styles

excelled all cars at similar price all over the United States. Other cars handled by this firm are the PopeHartford, the Stevens-Duryea, the

manufactured, at the factory price plus freight ; they are also sole agents for the well-known Cadillac, which has

accessories, drop into the big Schuman garage and carriage shed on Merchant street, or phone 1405, and you will get just what you want. Around the corner of Alakea and Beretania streets cluster the independent auto workers. J. W. Kershner, the vulcanizer, at 1177 Alakea, is the city's

tire doctor. He imports tires, repairs tires, and manufactures rubber goods.
Having had eighteen years of experience in vulcanizing tires, Dr. Kershner can prescribe for anything that is rub-

Overland, etc. Sometimes there are wonderful second-hand bargains at von Hamm-Young's. If you are in auto trouble, phone No. 2417. The von Hamm-Young Garage, in the Young Building, is the la.gest in the city. The big auto makers are pretty apt nowadays to demand that their agents own or control a garage. This is the case with the Pierce-Arrow, the Chal-

ber. Call him up, phone 2434, if you need his services. Nearby on Beretania street is the shop of John Mattos, the auto plumber.
Mattos makes and repairs auto fenders and radiators for autos. Of course, Mattos does other plumbing, but autos

Alakea street near Beretania, phone No. 1657 and he will answer any question on auto or general plumbing.

are his specialty, and if you haven't time to drop in at his workshop on

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125

Of course, you will need harness and harness repairs. You can not avoid the big saddle sign of the California

Harness Shop, diagonally across from the Government building on King street. D. 0. Hamman & Son are the
proprietors, and they have had a score of years' experience making and repairing harness, saddles, whips, robes, collars, brushes and every line of har-

Honolulu is the ideal home of the bicyclist, horseman and driver of a rig. If you wish a good horse brought down from the mainland, or from New Zealand, drop into the Club Stables on Fort street near Hotel, and you will learn all about the kind of horse you should have. If the Stables have no
horse on hand suitable to your requirements, they will let you select from the next batch they bring into the

ness accessories, to say nothing of their specialty, automobile and carriage trimmings.
If you do keep a rig, it will occasionally need repairs or refitting; not far from the Territory Stables, on the opposite side of King street, at the cor-

ner of South, is the carriage factory of W. W. Wright Co. Here carriages and rigs of every kind are built from
start to finish, and years of experience have taught this concern just what kind of rigs should be built for island

country, or they will cable an order for the kind of horse you wish. And, after you have gotten your
horse, you will wish to feed him. The Union Feed Co., with spreading warehouses, is to be found on the harbor front, at the corner of South and Allan

use. It is well to let the Wright Co. know just where you will use your rig or wagon and let them do the rest. If
you' are in trouble of any kind over your carriage or auto, phone No. 1148, and right Mr. Wright will make it all right at a reasonable cost and in short

streets. If you have not time to call, phone No. 1868. Fred W. Macfarlane,

order. If your horses become lean, don't

l2()

THE MID-PACIFIC.

1101i01.111i

ROME SITES
HONOLULU AT LARGE. Honolulu possesses the most beautiful home sites in the world. Mountain tops, valleys and seaside are at your

WOODLAWN is the name given to the most delectable portion of Manoa Valleythe home of the people of wealth in Hawaii. This estate, Woodlawn, covering five hundred acres of the valley and sloping up to the mountain top, is being improved

by the construction of miles of automobile roads that on a gentle grade ascend the mountain side, giving
great plateaus here and there with unmolested views of city, sea and mountains ; ideal homesites, the views from which can never be obstructed. Wood-

command. Dondero & Lansing, at 83 Merchant street, make a specialty

of securing estates within and about the city and cutting these up into desirable building lots, which are sold at very reasonable figures. Look the

lawn is a residence tract of distinction with forests, springs and running

streams and a reservoir that holds 200,000 gallons of water. Charles S. Desky, the pioneer real estate man, 912 Fort street, is manager of this splendid residence park, and is always

map of Honolulu over and let them know the locality you prefer and it is likely that they can locate you. The name of Lansing has been familiar in
real estate circles for many years. If you care to live near the street car system of Honolulu, drop into the office of Dondero & Lansing, 83 Merchant street, near the postoffice, and

pleased to take visitors out for an auto spin along the beautiful roads of Woodlawn. Several well-known residents have already secured wooded plateaus, where they will build beautiful homes. These ideal homesites

may be had from $750.00 an acre up.

look at the maps of the plots this

company has for sale.

THE MID-PACIFIC. KAIMUKI is the new residential portion of Honolulu. After twenty years as a conductor of world tours, Frank C. Clark, resting in Honolulu at the end of his great Cleveland cruise around the world with 700 guests, stopped his auto on the ridge behind Diamond Head akd said : "This is the most beautiful view I have seen in all my life in any land. I would rather own a home here on this spot than anywhere I have visited." It is probabiz that Frank Clark's wish will be gratified. Tourists who have come to
Honolulu for a day or a week have succumbed to its irresistable charm and have remained to build homes and rear families, families that provide

127

Yale and Harvard with their picked athletes every year. The Kaimuki Land Company has
recently taken over almost the entire Palolo Valley and will immediately develop Palolo Hill, as the slanting table of land is named, that rises

tain ranges on either side of it, wide boulevards and a splendid automobile road will be built, trees set out, and
the level, sloping plateau made the ideal residential building site in the

in a gradual slope from the car line, 200 feet above the sea, to a height of 700 feet. On this great level slope that
overlooks Koko Head, Diamond Head, Waikiki, all Honolulu, and the moun-

Pacific. There will be plenty of water for irrigation, although it seldom rains in this perfectly healthy portion of Honolulu. It may rain every day at
the town end of the car line, and it often does, but seldom at Kaimuki. The Kaimuki Land Company is turning Palolo crater, half a mile in diameter

and hundreds of feet deep, into a gigantic reservoir, the bed of which is nearly a thousand feet above the highest point on Palolo Hill. Flower gardens will be made to bloom where only rank grass for cattle has beauti-

fied this green-tinted table, and the whole country round about will be made to respond to the immense amount of capital that the Kaimuki Land Company is pouring into this section. The valley itself will be reserved for the country home estates of the very wealthy, an auto road will be, and is now being, constructed to the

very base of the mountains, far up the valley; a macadam road will lead up to the crater's edge, 1800 feet above the sea, and camping cottages erected on its rim, looking down on the boating lake and reservoir the Kaimuki Land Company is now creating. But if you want to know more of this modern fairyland, call up the Kaimuki Land Company by phone, or write them.

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THE MID-PACIFIC.

BUILDING IN THE CITY OF HONOLULU

THE BUILDINGS AT FORT SHAFTER. When one intends to build, he will naturally seek architects and contractors of known skill and experience to undertake the work for him. E. J. Lord, foremost successful contractor in the Islands, and J. L. Young, late advisory engineer and architect of the quartermaster department, U. S. Army, have recently organized the Lord-Young Engineering Co., Ltd., with offices in the Campbell Block, Fort and Merchant streets, to conduct a general engineering and contracting business. Mr. Lord's construction work on some of the largest government contracts in the Islands is too well known to dwell on. Mr. Young spent many years in the government service as engineer and architect. He designed numerous public buildings in the United States and Cuba, and in Hawaii designed and supervised the construction of Forts Shafter and Ruger. The first work of importance of the Lord-Young Engineering Co. was the new University Club building ; the interior woodwork and architecture of which is the most tasteful Honolulu has seen for some time. Another undertaking of this company was designing and superintending construction of the new Bishop Museum laboratory, a four-story building of reinforced concrete, and one of the largest laboratory buildings in the world. This company is at present overseeing the construction of the Pantheon Block, at Fort and Hotel streets. The Lord-Young Engineering Co., Ltd., always maintains a competent corps of technical men, and will be pleased to submit plans to anyone contemplating construction work of any kind in Hawaii, from a bungalow to a railway. Phone 2610. You will naturally wish to continue with the largest firm dealing in lumber, paints and general household construction supplies. Lewers & Cooke, on King street, opposite the Young Building, maintain the largest establishment of the kind in Hawaii. This firm not only occupies the entire three floors of what is architecturally the finest business building in Honolulu, but it also maintains a two-story concrete office building on its lumber yard property, and It is the spacious stable buildings. boast of Lewers & Cooke that they supply all materials required for the erection of buildings from the foundation until ready for the furniture. This firm sends its own four-masted schooners to the Coast for cargoes of redwood, oak, ash, hickory, sugar pine and all kinds of woods. It also imports hardware of every description, and a full and complete line of Fuller's house paints, to say nothing of the latest fashions in stains and wall papers, oil and mattings. If you need tanks, lime, cement, brick, terra cotta, or any one of the thousand and one requirements in house building, call up No. 1261, and rest assured that Lewers & Cooke will see to all matters.

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129

HOME BUILDING

has its show rooms in the Kapiolani building just such houses. Mr. Wicke Building, phone 1535. No home is complete in Honolulu is also an expert in interior work for store fixings. Call at his place on Ala- without a ukelele, a piano and a Vickea street near Hotel, for he has built tor talking machine. The Bergstrom scores of small homes in Honolulu: He Music Co., with its big store on Fort can take your order and for a fixed street, will provide you with thesea price, suitable to your means, furnish Chickering, a Weber, a Kroeger for your mansion, or a tiny upright Bouyou with your house complete. If you wish a more expensive home, doir for your cottage ; and if you are with concrete finishings and every up- a transient it will rent you a piano. to-date improvement dear to the heart The Bergstrom Music Co., phone 2321, of the man of wealth, J. H. Craig, who books your theater tickets for the designed and built the palatial home of Royal Hawaiian Opera House. In building your house, and after, Mr. Howard, has had the experience (twenty years of it in Honolulu) that you will need the expressman. The you may be looking for. He will show easiest way is to phone orders to 1281. you palatial buildings he has designed This is the City Transfer Co., Jas. H. and erected in the city, and will pre- Love, Manager, King St. near Fort. pare elaborate plans in accord with your desires. It will pay you, if you are going in for a substantial home, to call up 2230, and take a drive around town with Mr. Craig to let him point out the advantages of building to the climate. The most important thing in housebuilding is, of course, the plumber. E. W. Quinn, on Beretania street near Emma, phone 1444, does most of the

It is best to consult some one who knows the land and the climate before selecting a building site in Honolulu, or on the islands at large. The land office can put you right, or there is Pratt, the land man, 125 Merchant street. Write him, or, if you are in Honolulu, call, or phone 1602. Mr. Jas. W. Pratt was for many years Land Commissioner, and he can tell you just where it is best to build. If you are going in for a nice cosy cottage and lanai to start with, phone No. 1674, and you will hear from F. D. Wicke, who makes a specialty of

plumbing for the big contractors of Honolulu. He, of course, employs only citizen labor, and the best material. Dealing in large quantities as he does, his prices are reasonable, both for gas pipe fixing and ordinary plumbing. The establishment on Beretania street carries a full line of the latest and best porcelain-lined bath tubs, and Quinn can tell you all about the requirements of climate and law in Honolulu regarding open plumbing, and the laws in Honolulu are rigid as regards sanitary plumbing, so you had better call up Quinn and ask a few questions before building your house. It costs no more to build furniture in Honolulu to suit the climatic requirements than to import unsuitable ready-made furniture from the Coast. The Honolulu Wire Bed Co., with a factory at 1250 Alapai street, is really a furniture company. It builds iron beds, makes wire mattresses that are ant-proof, makes a specialty of kitchen furniture, and cheap and medium grade household furniture of every kind, as well as upholstering. The company

130

THE MID-PACIFIC.

BUILDING

B. Johenson Mill Co., Ltd., for your doors, sashes, frames, blinds, mouldings and brackets, unless you care to go down to the mill yards, Kawaiahao

street, Kewalo, and "look see" for yourself, which is, of course, the wisest plan, if you are a new hand at house-building. It is wonderful how
much you can save an how many new ideas present themselves from a visit

to the mills.

Probably no pretentious house built

in Honolulu during the last half century has been completed without the
Are you thinking of building? assistance of E. 0. Hall & Son, Fort and King streets, Phone No. 1854. You might completely furnish your

Harry L. Kerr, in the McCandless Building, is the dean of the Honolulu architects. He has designed and superintended the construction of houses innumerable in the city, to say nothing of churches, business blocks, the

house from top to bottom at Hall & Son's. There is a floor given over to
crockery and kitchen ware of every kind and description. In fact, lumber provided, you might order material to build and equip your house from Hall

Yokohama Specie Bank, and the big concrete building of the Hawaiian Fertilizer Co., the largest of its kind this side of the Rockies. The construction of this building was performed by the Pacific Engineering Co., Ltd. This firm of designing and constructing engineers
has its offices in the Kapiolani Building, Alakea and King streets. The

Pacific Engineering Co. are engineers and constructors of buildings of every kind, from the smallest private residence to the large and imposing business blocks. Being composed of some of the most prominent men in the Islands, it is not surprising that it has secured large and important contracts, including the construction of the new Y. M. C. A.
The contract for gravel roofing of the Pacific Fertilizer Company building was given to Mr. Higgins of the Paragon Paint and Roofing Co.,

& Son's. There is a hardware basement and a ground-floor from which the gardener or small farmer might secure his entire outfit. If you are thinking of painting your house within or without, it is Hall & Son who handle the Sherwin-Williams paints. If you need a gas engine, motorcycle or an ordinary pedal bike, Hall & Son have them, in stock. If you are interested in snorting goods, they are the agents for Spaldings' goods. In fact, E. 0. Hall & Son is the big retail department store of the Territory of Hawaii, where you may purchase or order any and everything, from a pin to a locomotive. If your house is in Honolulu, naturally
you will use gas for lighting and cooking. The Honolulu Gas Co., with exhibition rooms on Beretania and Alakea streets, has men employed there to show you the latest and best gas ranges and stoves. The cars stop in

on Bethel street. He is the father of roofing paint mixed to suit the climate of Hawaii ; he brought the secret with him twenty years ago. If you wish to see some of his handiwork, there is the old fish market, the corrugated iron roof of which was treated by Mr. Higgins in 1895. In the rainy parts of the Islands, where corrugated iron rots out in a year or so, Mr. Higgins guarantees to extend its usefulness many
seasons. Phone 1060. You might also phone 1260, the A.

front of the door. After you have built your house, you will naturally insure it for all it is worthbut, if you really do not wish it to be even damaged by fire you will keep a Badger Fire Extinguisher at hand. These chemical extinguishers should by law be a part of the equipment of each and every house and home, especially in the outlying districts. The Badger has saved many homes in Honolulu. Phone J. A. Gilman, at 828 Fort street.

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131

[I Kil C NO11Olulu
Honolulu possesses one of the very best electric street railway systems in the world. Scenically, the Honolulu trolley trip has no rival. For five cents, free transfers, you may ride directly, ter in the direction of Pearl Harbor, to Waikiki Beach or Kaimuki and Diamond Head fortress, the Gibraltar of the Pacific. The Honolulu Rapid

Everyone uses electricity in Honolulu. The first city to instal the telephone and the wireless is first, for its

size, in the use of electric labor-saving devices. The Hawaiian Electric Co. supplies the electric lighting and
power current for the city. You may run your White sewing machine, your electric fan, vacuum cleaner, coffee grinder, meat chopper, washing ma-

chine, silver polisher, ice cream freezer or window cleaner by merely turning on the current generated at the Hawaiian Electric Power House. The Hawaiian Electric also maintains a handsome office building and show rooms on Union Square, facing King

or by zigzag course if you prefer, from street. Here you may study the cookone end of the city to the other, from ing stoves and entire electric kitchen the sugar cane fields about Fort Shaf- and household outfit. You may
completely equip your kitchen, so that at the mere turning of a plug you may boil, bake, roast or fry. You may do

Transit system rails are laid before seven valleys and mountain spires.
From the baronial estate of Moanalua, in the valley of the same name, and the polo grounds, the cars pass Kalihi Valley and the famous Bishop Museum, with its finest Polynesian col-

your ironing anywhere by merely attaching a movable wire to the nearest electric plug on the wall of the room
or similarly supply power to a motor that will turn your lathe, if you are mechanically inclined, or put a workshop in operation. The Hawaiian

lection in the world ; Nuuanu Valley, with a branch line to the Country Club,
and a walk of but three miles to the Pali, a precipice 1200 ft. high; Pauoa Valley, where native grass houses still stand ; Makiki Valley, from which Tantalus, the mountain of homes, is

Electric is agent for the Westinghouse, and that means everything in electric equipment from the simplest
kitchen to the biggest sugar mill in the Islands. For the housekeeper the Hawaiian Electric maintains a cold-storage warehouse, and manufactures ice, which it delivers at the home. By all means visit the show rooms

ascended, and fair Manoa Valley . For the casual tourist boarding the car at King and Fort street and going
toward Waikiki on the King street line, the chief places of interest to be seen from the car are : The Capitol building (former 'royal palace), Ka-

of the. Hawaiian Electric on King

street, Union Square, and see the display of useful and ornamental electric devices for the home, business office and workshop, or phone 2390.

mehameha statue, Kawaiahao native church, first frame building erected in Hawaii, the Old Plantation, the rice
fields, banana fields and duck ponds of the orientals ; famous old Waikiki ; the Outrigger Club and its native grass houses ; the surfboard riders ; Queen Liliuokalani's summer residence ; Kapiolani Park ; the Aquarium, containing the most gorgeous collection of tropical fish in the world ; baseball park, where every nationality under the sun compete, and Diamond Head.

132

THE MID-PACIFIC.

BUSINESS BUILDINGS.
The business man does not have to leave his district in Honolulu to give an order for a house or business block, from start to finish. He can drop into the big, spacious hall and office of the Honolulu Construction and Draying Company at 65 Queen, phone 2281. This is the concern that sells you your coal, hauls it to you, supplies you with drays and teams for any work, or undertakes to lay your sewers or build If you have your design and are ready for a frame building, put up by the importers of lumber, it is best to drop into the lumber yards of the Honolulu Planing Mill. Here, at 655 Fort street, near the waterfront, the Lucas Bros., contractors and builders, conduct their planing mill and receive their lumber from the Coast. You can give an order for a house, or you may merely select your mouldings, brackets, window frames, sashes, doors and other lumber. The phone is 1510. The business man needs a safe, and the agency for the Alpine Safe and Lock Co. is in the hands of H. E. Hendrick, Merchant and Alakea Sts.

your roads.. If you are building, remember that in Hawaii you need the aid of the Peerless Preserving Paint Co., Ltd., also at 65 Queen street, that you must use the best preservative paint or let your roof rot out in a year or so. This These are the famous Cincinnati safes, firm guarantees their work for three and may be had at prices from forty years, and they periodically inspect dollars up to as many hundred dollars. same. It is also the exclusive handler Call and learn about office safes. Mr. of the famous felt, pitch and gravel Hendrick is also laying in a line of roofing. A postal or telephone call office supplies, and it is well to keep (2281) will be responded to by a fore- in touch. There are many things the business man, who will give full particulars and man will wish on commission. The a careful estimate. You have but to step out of the of- California Feed Co., Ltd., Queen St., fice of the Honolulu Construction and near Nuuanu, is a commission merDraying Co. to consult with Allen & chant firm and an importer and dealer Robinson, either in their office or in in hay and grain ; phone 1121. If you the extensive lumber yard, where you are keeping horses in your line of busimay select at will the seasoned lum- ness, this concern deals in every kind ber you need. In the office you will be of feed, or if you are starting a ranch, able to select your house paints, and large or small, they will contract to good advice will be given you as to the see that your stock is well fed. If you are thinking of investing in kinds best suited for the climate. If you can't call, phone 2105, and it will a boat, or of getting rid of one, there do as well, for the firm understands the is the Miller Salvage Co., Ltd., on needs of the man who is building or Merchant St., near Alakea. If there is anything from the wreckage of a painting his house. If you need a painter for work of vessel that you can use, this company any kind, there is Sharp, the sign- has it. There is little about shipping painter. You must have interior dec- that Captain Miller or his company orations and signs of some sort, and dont know, and as he sometimes disSharp, on Hotel street, opposite the patches a schooner to the Coast, it is Alexander Young Hotel, can put you well to keep in touch with him if you right. Talk with him, or phone 1697. have anything to send to the mainland.

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133

THE

UNTERISLAND 1
STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY, LTD.

S. S. MAUNA KEA

From Honolulu a fleet of modern steamers ply to all the islands of Hawaii. In six hours you may be at the base of the earth's greatest crater mountain, Haleakala, on Maui; twelve hours later you may step ashore at Hilo on the Big
Island of Hawaii, and take the train or auto for the earth's largest active volcano, Kilauea. You may climb the highest island peak in the world, Mauna Kea,

waii, and a stopover for a week or a month may well be employed visiting the scenic wonders of the Pacific.

The Mauna Kea, the flagship of the Inter-Island fleet, leaves Honolulu every
Tuesday morning at ten o'clock for Lahaina, the ancient capital, on the Island of Maui, and for Hilo. The S. S. Claudine leaves Honolulu every Friday at 5 p. m. for Maui ports

or you may now ride out of Hilo on the new railway that skirts a series of cliffs,
a trip that for scenic splendor is rivaled only by the famous Amalfi drive in Southern Italy. If you leave Honolulu at night for Kauai, the Garden Island of the group, you wake up in the morning at your destination. There are canyons on Kauai that for vastness of depth and varieties of color rival those of Arizona. It is always smiling springtime in Ha9

and Hilo, and the Mauna Loa every ten days for a trip halfway around the Island of Hawaii. The S. S. Kinau leaves
for Kauai Island every Tuesday, and the W. G. Hall, Thursdays at 5 p. m. The S. S. Mikahala leaves every Tuesday for Molokai ports. Send to the Inter-Island Co. on Queen street, Honolulu, for illustrated literature, or call in person and arrange for a cruise among the islands of the MidPacific Paradise.

134

THE MID-PACIFIC.

The Business Man in Hawaii.

Paper and Supply Co. The wholesale and retail headquarters are at the corner of Fort and Queen streets. If

there is anything front paper bags to blank books, paper of any quality from a pound to a ton, the American-HaJames F. Morgan, for several years President of the Chamber of Commerce in Honolulu, is always ready to advise
with business men who think of locating in the Territory. Mr. Morgan takes charge of the land and real estate auctions of the City of Honolulu, and can always give good advice to those at home or abroad who wish to invest in waiian Paper and Supply Company is out for the contract. It represents the foremost paper mills in America, and

anything not in stock it imports on order. While you are selecting your office
furniture, seeking a good stenographer and a trustworthy boy, the Messenger Service will be indispensable. You may phone 1861 or call at the head office on Hotel and Union streets. This Messenger Service will deliver your cards

Hawaiian real estate, stocks, bonds or other securities. Mr. Morgan's office and real estate rooms practically face
the postoffice, and are less than half a block away, at 857 Kaahumanu street. The Magoon Brothers, Magoon

more cheaply than will the postoffice; it has the agency for advertising on
all the big steamers, is the agent for the Manx Hotel in San Francisco.

block, Merchant and Alakea Sts., are the latest to enter the real estate field,
collecting and general promotion work. These young men are backed in business by their father, who has handled big real estate deals in Honolulu for a quarter of a century. Young

Every man believes more or less in signs, the business man most of all. On King street, diagonally opposite the
Bulletin building is Stanley Stephenson, the sign painter. Whether it is a sign to be painted on your door or window or a great structural sign to be built around the top of the building or across its front, Stephenson is equipped to talk business with you on Signs. Drop in and see his handiwork or phone 1726. If you intend starting out as a merchant, either in Honolulu, or if you wish to equip a store on a plantation, you will need a reliable agent in Ho-

and energetic, they are ever on the lookout for interests in business enterprises and outlets for capital and energy. If you are about to launch a new business in which young blood and energy is needed, talk it over with the Magoon boys, or call them up by

phone number 2691. If you locate in Honolulu, both for

home and office, you will need furniture. J. Hopp & Co., Ltd., are fully competent to outfit you. Their great spacious store is on King street, opposite the Alexander Yining Building. Here you will find every kind of furniture that you would expect to see in a big San Francisco furniture emporium. This company is opening up a new line of office furniture, and it will be well to visit the show rooms. Phone number 2111.

nolulu. H. Rosenburg, in the Waverley building, at the corner of Hotel and Bethel streets, acts in this capacity. He represents large Eastern manufacturers of dry goods, shoes, trunks, etc., and brings from the East

every kind of dry goods, which are always on display in his show rooms, which it will pay you to visit. Phone 1971, P. 0. Box 590.
If you must build, a visit to the A. B. Johenson Mill is advisable (see page 130). There you may secure material

The business man in Hawaii outfits his office from the American-Hawaiian

for a frame building from start to finish. Phone 1260.

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135

THE PORI Of THE HONED BANNS

FIRST NATIONAL BANK

YOKOHAMA SPECIE BANK

The several banks of Honolulu, some of them more than half a century in business, have never felt the financial gales that have passed over the main-

land. In Honolulu there is no "booming." The saying is, "The banks won't stand for it," and they don't. That, perhaps, is why Honolulu is the most prosperous city of its size in the world. To quote briefly from the San Francisco Chronicle of recent datespeaking of the progressive banks of Hawaiitaking the Banks of Honolulu in the order of their ages : "The Bank of Hawaii, Ltd., was incorporated December 27, 1897. The start was made with a cash capital of $300,000, increased to $600,000; at the end of the first quarter, March, 1898, the deposits totalled $196,000. On December 31, 1909, the total was $3,721,642.07. The loans in March, 1898, $323,026; in December, 1909, $2,690,603.23. The capital surplus and undivided profits amounted to $1,121,372, or more than the total of any other bank in the Hawaiian Islands. This bank is a monument to the financial acumen of the late C. M. Cooke ; his son, C. H. Cooke, is its president. The Bank of Hawaii has spacious quarters on the main business corner of Honolulu, Merchant and Fort streets. This bank also conducts a savings department. Cable address "Bankoh."

The First National Bank stands at the corner of Fort and King streets, the heart of the business district. This bank is the depository in Hawaii of the U. S. Government, and began business October 1, 1900; its business has increased by leaps and bounds, it having paid over a quarter of a million in dividends on the capital stock of $500,000. The deposits March 29, 1910, were $1,301,638.76; surplus, $135,000. Total assets, $2,332,772.37. This progressive bank will soon remove to a new building of its own. The officers are : Cecil Brown, President ; M. P. Robinson, L. Tenney Peck, Vice-President ; Cashier. "The Yokohama Specie Bank, a branch of the famous Japanese institution, with a paid-up capital of $12,000,000, has just moved into its magnificent new building at the corner of Merchant and Bethel streets, opposite the postoffice and Bishop & Co. The officers of the Yokohama Specie Bank,

Mr. Y. Akai, Manager; M. Kani and S. Takagi, pro-managers ; E. W. Macla, Cashier ; M. Kawamura, Accountant. A visit to this institution is well worth while. It is the most up-to-date fireproof building in Hawaii, the interior being finished in bronze marble. Branches of the Yokohama Specie Bank are found everywhere throughout the world." Honolulu has reason to be proud of her banks.

BANK OF HAWAII

136

THE MID-PACIFIC.

NINON' 1118I COMPRNIES

Honolulu was one of the first cities to adopt the idea of the trust company, and the Hawaiian Trust Co., organized in 1898, was the first to be established on the islands ; J. R. Galt is its present head. The Henry Waterhouse Co., Ltd., was born January 1st, 1903, succeeding Henry Waterhouse, who began business in 1852 ; Robert Shingle has been President of the Trust Co. from its inception. The Trent Trust Co. was organized in June, 1907, by Richard H. Trent, formerly of the Waterhouse Trust Co., and Treasurer (thrice reelected) of Honolulu. In Hawaii the trust companies are not permitted to do a banking business. They are controlled by a trust law. First they act as attorney in fact, draw up wills, administer estates, act as guardians, collect rents, pay taxes as trustees, insure their clients from loss by fire, insure the life of the head of a household, buy and sellthrough their agent on the Stock Exchangestocks and bonds for their clients, but may not purchase or sell for their own account. In fact, the trust company in Hawaii acts as agent or business manager for those who need such service. Many old residents when touring abroad leave a full power of attorney with one of the trust companies to conduct their business. The Hawaiian Trust Co., for instance, in July, 1910, had charge of $7,500,000 worth of property. This company has for a decade or more administered the Brewer estate, which owns a large section of the business heart of Honolulu. The Hawaiian Trust Co. insures the buildings, collects the rents, makes repairs, pays taxes and turns over to the heirs their just returns. This company, organized by ex-Governor of Hawaii, George R. Carter, occupies a handsome building on Fort street between King and Merchant streets. The telephone number is 1255. The Henry Waterhouse Trust Co., a $200,000 incorporation, with $100,000 issued and paid, occupies the spacious quarters at the corner of Fort and Merchant streets. Here the wireless system for Hawaii was born, and housed until very recently. There are spacious vaults for valuable papers, insurance department, real estate feature, and every department common to the up-to-date trust company. The managers were for years associated with Henry Waterhouse, before the firm that had stood for half a century was incorporated as a trust company. The telephone number is 1208. The Trent Trust Co. has grown, and grown, since its inception in 1907, then with a capitalization of $50,000, now $83,000, fully paid up. With the beginning of its third year the assets had increased to $176,912.09. The size of the office space, on Fort street, between King and Merchant, has been doubled, large vaults built in, and a series of agency rooms for insurance business of every kind. The Trent Trust Co. is the parent of the Mutual Building and Loan Association of Honolulu, Ltd., a separate body with a capital of $75,000. The Trent Trust Co. does a large house rental agency business and is, as are all the trust companies in Honolulu, a member of the Stock and Bond Exchange. The telephone number is 2301. Such in brief is the story of the trust companies doing business in Honolulu. If any one of these can be of service to youwell, they are there for that purpose. You will do well to drop in and get first-hand information from one of the Trust Companies.

THE MID-PACIFIC.

137

STOCKS AND BONDS

The Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange was organized August 26th, 1898, with five charter members, but today the membership is elimited to twelve regular members, each of whom is allowed one substitute to trade in sessions. The members of the board have always been representative business men of Honolulu. The first president of the Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange, George R. Carter, became Governor of

Home of Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange. the Territory of Hawaii; James F. Morgan, real estate dealer, a stocks in Hawaii. In the year 1909 divicharter member still in good standing, is dends on the $50,000,000 sugar stock president of the Honolulu Chamber of were paid to the sum of $7,743,575 in Commerce ; Willard E. Brown, another cash, and $2,250,000 in stock. Nearly charter member and still on the board, $600,000 a month is being paid in Hoserved as chairman of the Hawaii Pro- nolulu on sugar stock dividends. During motion Committee, and is now the head the year ending June 30th, 1910, about of Halstead & Co. ; while Harry Arm- $10,250,000 of stock was sold on the Exitage, who was the first charter member change. The present board room of the Honoof the Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange, and organizer, still has the privi- lulu Stock and Bond Exchange is located lege of the board. The progress of the in the Judd building, Fort and Merchant Exchange has been more than successful. streets. A seat on the Exchange is At present William Williamson is its valued at $7,500. The members and substitutes of the president, a Williams College man and one of the best posted men in Hawaii Exchange are: William Williamson, president (no on stocks and bonds ; Albert F. Afong, a Harvard man, born and bred in Hono- substitute), office 83 Merchant street; lulu, is vice-president ; Wm. Simpson of phone No. 1482. Albert F. Afong, vice-president, office the Bishop Trust Co. is secretary ; and the Trent Trust Co. is treasurer. In fact 832 Fort street, with H. S. Gray in the the four trust companies of Hawaii are same office as substitute. Phone No. members of the Exchange, being rep- 2407. Harry Armitage, 832 Fort ; Cushresented on the board by the president, man Carter, substitute. Phone 2101. or at least by one of the trusted memWillard E. Brown, office 208 Merchant bers of each company. Of the other members of the Exchange, A. J. Camp- street, representing Halstead & Co. bell was for years treasurer of the Ter- Substitute, W. A. Love. Phone 2133. W. P. Roth, of Roth & Gifford, 848 ritory, Harry Armitage for many years associated with James F. Morgan, W. P. Kaahumanu street. Substitute, Harold Roth is a partner in the firm of Roth & Gifford. W. P. Roth was for several years connected with the First National Gifford. Every year the Honolulu Stock and Bank, and Mr. Gifford with the WaterBond Exchange issues a booklet on "Ha- house Trust Co. A. J. Campbell (former Territorial waiian Securities," which may be had by addressing any member of the 'board. treasurer), office 79 Merchant street. Enormous revenues accrue from sugar Substitute, Joe Andrade. Phone 2326.

138

THE MID-PACIFIC.

Your Health in Honolulu.

If you imagine you are an invalid, you will demand delicacies
in Honolulu. Mr. Thomas Kelly has established a factory for the purpose of satisfying this craw

ing. He puts up guava jellies in natural yellows and reds, from the two fruits, so clear that you can almost read through the
glass tumblers of jelly. Honolulu is about the healthiest place in the world, but sometimes Use ice from distilled water, which there are those who like to be nursed the Oahu Ice and Electric Co. will

and coddled at a sanatorium. It is quieter than at a hotel, and the food

is prepared by trained nurses from the best of everything. Honolulu has one excellent sanatorium, conducted

supply more cheaply than do the mainland ice factories. Phone 1128. And if your plumbing is out of order, phone
E. W. Quinn, 1444, 214 S. Beretania street. The healthiest cooking is done with

by Mrs. Mary Johnson at 1451 Kewalo street, phone 1153. Here for five dollars a day you may have a trained nurse and live in luxury, or you may camp in the grove about the house. A
visit to this institution is worth while. No one who travels in Hawaii should ever abstain from having in his room, at home, in a sanatorium, or

gas. In Honolulu, a call to the Honolulu Gas Co., 2322, will insure the installation of sanitary equipment.
Good health is preserved by securing life a plenty of the best of everything. The American Brokerage Co. (T. Lansing, Manager, 935 King St.), next the big market, was organized as

at

his hotel the aerated waters of Hawaii. The Rycroft Brothers, phone 2270, have built an extensive

concrete building on Sheridan street, where they manufacture from distilled waters the aerated waters that bear

an aid for everyone to this end. There is no kitchen utensil, in sanitary enamel, that this company will not supply at lowest prices ; there is no
grocery article of merit that has passed the pure food inspection that is not

their name, or that of the Fountain Soda Works. Rycroft is the best, and a phone call will bring you any kind of soda you wish. There is a splendid
pineapple preparation they put up, ginger waters, and root beers of the best, besides any kind of aerated water you may call for. It will pay

kept in stock, and all of the Colgate wares, soaps, perfumes, etc., are sold at San Francisco prices. The storerooms of the American Brokerage Co. are near the famous fish market, and
if you intend to live long you will eat plenty of fresh fish and patronize the American Brokerage Co.

you to drop in at the factory and see the process of distilling and aerating the waters and then making the various soft drinks by the latest mechanical processes. Rycroft is, of course, served at the sanatorium and at the

People don't usually die in Honolulu, but when they do they phone in
advance to Henry H. Williams, 1146 Fort street, phone number 1408, and he arranges the after details. If you are a tourist and wish to be interred

IIaleiwa, as well as at all first-class hotels, but it is as well to have a private supply of different sparkling soft
drinks in your room, so when you locate, do as the Honolulu housewife does, call up 2270 and ask for a case of Rycrofts."

in your own plot on the mainland, Williams will embalm you ; or he will arrange all details for interment in Honolulu. Don't leave the Paradise
of the Pacific for any other, but if you must, let your friends talk it over with Williams.

THE MID-PACIFIC.

139

THE ROMANCE OF THE HAWAIIAN PINEAPPLE

A decade ago Byron 0. Clark, W. B. Thomas and James D. Dole were among the few struggling pioneer pineapple growers in Hawaii who would

not give up in the face of ridicule and adversity. Today, largely through
their individual efforts, Hawaiian pines have become the world's standard. Now a quarter of a million and more cases is an ordinary season's output. James D. Dole has erected in Honolulu the largest canning factory in the

aerated waters, which is deliver ed to you from 35c a dozen bottles up, but
there is nothing that the Arctic bottles that compares with Pinectar, so don't forget the phone, No. 1557. Another of the pineapple pioneers, W. B. Thomas, a California journalist who came to Hawaii for his health, has done much to make the land of his adoption known from one end of America to the other. The Thomas Pineapple Co. plantation, consisting of 600 acres, is located at Wahiawa, 20

world, and at Wahiawa controls the largest pineapple field. The canned
Hawaiian pine has conquered the housewives and chefs around the world. The Hawaiian canned product is more palatable and less stringy than

the fresh fruits grown in less favored localities. Within the last year James D. Dole, the indefatigable, put
Dole's Pineapple Juice on the market. He had discovered a method of preserving the unsweetened pine juice, and the long-sought-for pine juice now promises to become a more valued product than the pine itself, for already Dole's Pineapple Juice is for sale at the soda fountains and grocery stores throughout the country. For years Byron 0. Clark, head of the Clark Farm Co., Ltd., a family af-

miles from Honolulu, in the most favored pineapple section in the world, and where 80 per cent. of all Hawaiian pineapples are grown. This company's cannery is
equipped with all the most improved machinery and the planting, cultivation and canning of their crop receive personal supervision from start tc finish. In this way the brands "Thomas' Best" and "Pride of Hawaii" have become known as the standard of merit for the best grade of Hawaiian canned pineapple. The yearly output of the cannery is about one million cans, and besides large quantities of fresh fruit are shipped to Pacific Coast cities.

fair, has had in preparation an invention of his own, "Pinectar," which is now successfully launched. This is a
delicious pineapple fruit syrup which, carbonated by the Arctic Soda Works, on Miller street, phone 1557, is making its way both on the islands and mainland. If you are fond of a good breakfast bread syrup, use Pinectar ; if you feel the need of aerated pine juice, phone the Arctic Soda Worksthey manufacture and import every kind of

The best pines come from Wahiawa. The Consolidated Pineapple Co., a
branch of the Hawaiian Development Co., maintains its canning factory in the midst of the biggest pineapple field in the world, at Wahiawa, and here the fresh fruit may be picked early every morning and canned in its

own juice before night. This is the only company at Wahiawa that cansin the field.

140

THE MID-PACIFIC.

AROUND OAHU ISLAND BY RAIL

opportunity to visit an up-to-date sugar mill, returning to the hotel in time for luncheon, and at 2:00 o'clock in the afternoon you again leave by carriage for a drive to Wahiawa pineapple plantations, the largest in the world, where you may see this new island industry in all its stages. A train leaves Wahiawa, arriving in Honolulu at 5 :30 p. m. In place of this trip, Saturday and Sunday, are cheap week-end excursions to the Haleiwa Hotel by rail, two dollars for the return fare, from Saturday until Monday, or five dollars if the hotel service is included. The rates at the Haleiwa are $3.50 per day, or $21.00 per week. There is no finer cuisine on the islands, and banquets may be ordered from Honolulu by phone. A fresh water stream flows by the door of the hotel, where it empties into the sea ; and a trail leads up to the summit of Kaala, the highest mountain peak on the island. From Kahuku point, where the Oahu railway ends, 71 miles from Honolulu, and the big wireless tower flashes messages to San Francisco, another railway, the Koolau ( windward), begins. Its schedule makes connection with the Oahu railway trains, and passengers are carried on to Kahana, 11 miles away. In time this railway will doubtless climb the mountains and descend into Honolulu. This is the land of the Hawaiian Development Company, several degrees cooler in summer than the Honolulu side of the island. Here are the famous Kaliuwaa falls, near Hauula, and splendid trails leading 2000 feet up into the mountain range and a permanent camp. There are regular lines of Chinese and Japanese busses from this region to Honolulu, over the Pali, twenty odd miles, fare $1.00; and soon it is promised an auto bus will be placed in commission, when daily round the island auto-rail rides may be made in either direction at very low fares.

By rail you may travel 100 miles from Honolulu, visiting the richest sugar plantations in the world, the largest pineapple fields, the biggest sugar mill and Haleiwa (house beautiful), one of the most delectable seaside hotels in all the tropics. The Oahu railway passes along the edge of now famous Pearl Harbor, a to-begreater fortification than Gibraltar. It skirts the Waianae mountains, 4,000 feet high, and it is almost washed by the breakers at their base. A ride from Honolulu to Haleiwa by rail gives a 56-mile flying panorama of gorgeous tropical sea and mountain scenery that has no counterpart in any portion of the globe. The fares on the Oahu railway average, first class, about two cents a mile, and the week-end excursions even less. The following is one of the railway's twoday $10.00 trips, all expenses included : Step on either a King or Beretania street car, west bound, and it will take you direct to the station of the Oahu railway. A train leaving at 9:15 a. m. will take you to Haleiwa Hotel, where you arrive shortly before luncheon. This will be served on the broad lanais, after which you may spend the afternoon on the splendid golf links, the tennis court, or in bathing or out boating. Dinner is served at night in the well-appointed dining-room. At 9:00 o'clock the next morning a carriage will take you to Waialua Plantation, where you will have an

HALEIWA HOTEL ON LINE OF OAHU RAILWAY

THE MID-PACIFIC.

141

It is but an hour's ride from Honolulu, other mainland magnates are seeking by rail, to the famous Wahiawa pineapple to secure Hawaiian pineapple lands. district, lying between the Waianae and A branch of the Oahu railway was Koolau ranges, at an elevation of 1000 built to Wahiawa to bring pines from the feet above the sea level ; and but fifteen largest pineapple field to the largest canminutes farther to Leilehua, where the nery in the world. James D. Dole, head Consolidated Pineapple Co. has great of the Hawaiian Pineapple Co., now owns areas of pineapples growing. Some of the largest pineapple plantation as well the pines extend in parallel rows as the largest canning factory in the for miles. Here grow the most luscious world, the latter located at the other end pineapples in all the world, some of them of the railway from his plantation. "Dole weighing 14 pounds. These are the pine- came to Hawaii," says Van Norden's apples that practically drove every other Magazine, "some ten years ago from an kind but Hawaiian pines out of the Eastern college, and introduced pineapple American market. Here you may see the culture in Hawaii. Today he owns the process at the Consolidated canning fac- largest pineapple field in the world. tory, from start to finish, by which the There are rows of pines three miles long. now famous "Sugar Loaf" and "South- With others, who followed him into the ern Cross" pines are prepared for the pine business, he spends $50,000 a year markets of the world. The Hawaiian making Hawaiian fruits, in cans, known Development Co., of Honolulu, is the to the American on the Mainland. It agency for this truly remarkable concern. was discovered that the finest flavored There are no oil wells in Hawaii, fruit in the world could be grown in Habut the Hawaiian Development Co. waii and the pineapple industry there is has oil interests in California as valu- now only second to sugar." Mr. Dole able as pine fields in Hawaii. It con- has, after years of experimental work, trols a large block of the Petroleum succeeded in putting up pineapple juice North Midway Company, the personnel in bottles. This new and delicious prodof which is made up of successful oil uct is put on the market by the Hawaimen. The company actually insures ian Pineapple Products Co., of which investors against loss. The property Mr. Dole is also president. A visit should lies in the heart of the gusher terri- be made to his biggest canning factory tory, and is held under U. S. patent. and pine plantation in the world. In The Hawaiian Development Company America 3,000 cases is the average has the stock to sell in Hawaii. The pack of a cannery. Dole puts up anbig men of Hawaii are investing in nually in his Honolulu cannery 250,the Petroleum Investment Company 000 cases of pines grown on his Waon the mainland, and the Armours and hiawa plantation.

142

THE MID-PACIFIC.

HOUSEKEEPING

order the kind of fancy breed you wish to raise from. The Club Stables management makes a specialty of importing fine breeds cf poultry, and will be glad to tell you all about it. Phone

No. 1109. There is one excellent popular bakery in Honolulu, kiown throughout the Islands as "The Palm." It is located on Hotel street near Fort, but is
best known to the housewife by its

phone number, which is 2011. The rolls and bread of the city are baked at The Palm, and usually delivered about daylight from the wagons of the bakery. There is an excellent cracker factory in the city, the Honolulu cracker factory, phone 3056, that turns out every kind of bakers' biscuits. This factory, on King street nearly opposite the new fish market, is completely equipped with the modern machinery Honolulu believes in making housekeeping light. Gas stoves are becoming common, and the Japanese servants are adepts at cake making. The Sperry Flour Company of California
has an agency in Honolulu (on Queen St., 1564), and its refined product finds its way into most of the homes in the necessary for its work, and if you wish crackers delivered by the pound or by the box your order will be taken over

the phone and promptly filled. For ice, the phone number of the Oahu Ice Co. is 1128. A. W. Seabury is the manager, and this company has
made ice in Honolulu cheaper than in any city in the world. It has just built

Islands. Honolulu is a convenient city in which to supply the home. On King near Fort St., J. M. Levy
makes a specialty of importing only the finest fruits and fancy groceries from the Coast. The fashionable trade

new cold storage rooms, and has installed a new ice plant, so that there will never be any danger of shortage in the ice supply.
For crockery, the housewife in Honolulu goes to Dimond's, on King St., near Fort. This is the china and

of the well-to-do is catered to by this establishment. The best of everything in California fruits makes the reputation of Levy's among the Honolulu "four hundred." The phone is 1276. For fresh eggs and pure cream, all that is necessary is to call up on the phone 2890, Pond's dairy, adjoining Kapiolani Park. During the recent crusade against tubercular cows but three out of a herd of more than a
hundred Pond dairy cows were condemned, and the official report on the Pond dairy milk was one of the most flattering ever published.

home outfitting house of the city. Every housewife will want to know where the Gas Company has its exhibition rooms. The Honolulu Gas Co.
has a spacious show place at the corner of Alakea and Beretania streets,

where the Beretania, Emma and Alakea street cars stop to exchange passengers. Here may be seen the latest gas ranges, devices for heating at trifling expense the water for the bath
tub, and a hundred other labor and money-saving devices that have been invented to minimize the cost of gas

If you are going in for raising your own poultry, you can not do better than to phone to the Club Stables and

and give comfort to the housekeeper. Demonstraters are always present to explain the uses of the several inventions. The phone number is 2322.

THE MID-PACIFIC.
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It is 2400 miles from Vancouver to Honolulu, and the fare by the Canadian-Australian monthly palatial steamers is $65.00 up, first-class. The through fare to Australia is $200, with These Pacific stop-over privileges. Ocean greyhounds stop for a day in Honolulu on the trips to and from the Australian Colonies. The vessels of this Trans-Pacific line belong to the Union S. S. Co. of New Zealand, the third largest steamship company flying the British flag, and with its fleet of seventy ocean-going steamers by

moa and the Tongan Islands ; the fare on these cruises being $5 a day.
The Union Steamship Co. makes a There are specialty of its cruises. cruises, annually, to the wonderful West Coast sounds of New Zealand, grander than the Fjords of Norway. There are monthly cruises to the Cook Islands and Tahiti, where direct connection is made for San Francisco, and weekly trips around New Zealand and on to Tasmania, Victoria, and New South Wales. You may cruise around the Pacific

far the largest steamship company operating in the Pacific.

The Vancouver-Australia boats also stop for a day at Suva, Fiji, where the native of the South Seas may be seen in his pristine simplicity. A month's stop-over, both in Hawaii and Suva, may be made to advantage. Cruising rates among the beautiful Fijian Islands by comfortable steamers cost but $2.50 a day. By the splendid big cruising steamers of the Union Steamship Co. there is a monthly cruise in

by the "Union" boats, from Victoria, or you may make connection from San
Francisco, the Matson line booking through passengers and making connection at Honolulu with the boats to and from Australia. To or from Tahiti the Oceanic boats make the San

Francisco connection. For further information about the Union S. S. Co. of New Zealand inquire at any Canadian Pacific passenger office ; in Honolulu, Theo. H. Davies & Co., on Kaahumanu street, are the agents, and can provide you with the book of cruises on the many boats.

either direction, from Auckland to Sydney, stopping at ports of Fiji, Sa-

144

THE MID-PACIFIC.

The New Zealand Government

Tourist Bureau.
In New Zealand the Government owns the railroads, builds the roads, cuts trails, erects hotels, puts up rest
houses, and practically controls traffic. It stands ready to take charge of the local traveler, or to conduct the tourist from the moment he becomes a guest

than which there is nothing in Norway to equal in graneur, is the Sutherland Falls, the highest in the world. The Government of New Zealand wel-.
comes the tourist; it carefully selects its own homeseekers and brings them across seas to aid in making homes and fortunes for themselves and for

of New Zealand, until he settles down as a resident, or regretfully leaves wonderful New Zealand behind him.
The Government Tourist Bureau sells you a ticket good for a month's travel on its railways for $25.00, first, class. It puts you up at first-class

New Zealand. New Zealand was the pioneer in the establishment of a Government Tourist Bureau, and in disseminating abroad splendidly illustrated literature of the home country; the Australian Colonies have followed suit, and the rest of the world is taking notice. The New Zealand Government Department of Tourist and Health Resorts supplies information free of charge to inquirers in all parts of the world concerning New Zealand as a tourist and health resort, and as a land for settlement, etc. Similar informa-

hotels at a rate of $2.50 a day. It provides guides and arranges excursions to every part of the islands.
Scenically, New Zealand is the world's wonderland. The Rotorua region rivals Yellowstone, and. is more accessible. Its glaciers excel in size and beauty those of Switzerland. It

has mountains 12,000 feet high; boiling lakes, on which launches ply, and
ice-cold lakes in which trout abound ; deer-hunting reserves, and forests filled with birds. Near Milford Sound,

tion is supplied at the Office of the High Commissioner for New Zealand, Westminster Chambers, 13 Victoria
street, London S. W., and at the Hawaiian Tourist Bureau, in Honolulu

THE MID-PACIFIC.

145

The New South Wales Tourist Bureau

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Physical configuration and a wide range of climate give the State of New South Wales its wonderful diversity of scenery, its abundance of magnificent resorts by ocean, harbor, mountain, valley, plain, lake, river and cave. It is this bewildering array of scenic attractions, and the peculiar strangeness of the forms of its animal and vegetable life, which makes New South Wales one of the most interesting countries in the world, and one which an up-to-date, well-traveled tourist must see. The climate of the State ranges from the arctic snows of Mt. Kosciusko to the sub-tropical glow of the Northern Rivers, and withal is one of the most equable in the world. Its eastern shore is washed by the crested rollers of the wide Pacific

and stretches by meadow, tableland and mountain to the rich, dry plains beneath the rim of the setting sun. Sydney, the capital, is the great tourist rendezvous. It is an important commercial center, but the incomparable beauty of its situation has given it widespread fame as a holiday city. Its mighty harbor with its peculiar and sustained beauty, is the talk of the world. North and South from the capital is flung the rugged Pacific coast, with its line of golden dazzling beaches, the palpitating haunts of the surf bather. Westward of Sydney, the Blue Moun-

tains attain an altitude of 3000 feet at a distance of 60 miles. The scenery is of rare magnificence. Through countless centuries, the rivers have carved stupendous gorges, comparable only to the famous Colorado canyons. The eucalyptus covered slopes give off health-giving odours, and graceful waterfalls, gaping valleys, fern-clad recesses and inspiring panoramas, impress themselves on the memory of the mountain visitor. The wonderful system of limestone caverns at Jenolan is a marvelous fairyland of stalactitic and stalagmitic formations, which must for ever remain the despair of the painter, the photographer and the writer. The world has no more marvelous or beautiful system of caves than these at Jenolan, which tourists from everywhere have marked as their own. The famous Jenolan series is supplemented and rivalled by the extensive systems at Wombeyan and Yarrangobilly, a little further away from Sydney. In the south on the Australian Alps, lies the unique Kosciusko Range, which contains the highest peak in the Continent, and is said to be the oldest land surface on the globe. The Hotel Kosciusko, a modern spa, replete with every convenience, golf links and tennis courts, an ideal tourist headquarters, stands at an altitude of 6000 feet. In summer, the mountaineer and trout fisherman stays here to enjoy the majestic scenery at the summit, or fill his bag with fish caught in a handy stream, and in winter the skirunner, tobogganer and ice-skater revels in the Alpine carnivals conducted on the glistening snowfields. The Government Tourist Bureau, a splendidly equipped Institution at Challis House, Sydney, readily dispenses information, maps, pamphlets and booklets, to all inquirers in connection with the tourist resorts of the State. Special itineraries are planned, and everything possible k done by the Bureau to facilitate the mcvements and put to the best use the time of visitors while in New South Wales.

146

THE MID-PACIFIC.

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INDEX
City Transfer Co Clark, Byron 0 Clark Farm Products Co Club Stables Cockroft, L. F Consolidated Pineapple Co Consolidated Soda Water Works Co Coyne Furniture Co Craig, J. H Culman's Curio Store Curio Den Demosthenes Hotel .... pesky, Charles S Dickerson, Mrs. C. L Dimond, W. W. & Co Dole, James D Dondero & Lansing Donna, The Dunn's Hat Shop Ehlers, B. F. & Co Empire Theater . Empire & Owl Auto Garage Enterprise Planing Mill Ferreia, Frank First National Bank Frazier, Charles Gifford and Roth Gilman, J. A Gray, The Gurrey's Art and Photo Shop Haleiwa Hotel PAGE 129

( Continued)
Honolulu Cyclery

139
139 120, 125, 142 102 139, 141 113 117 129 122 123 109 126 123 120, 142 112, 139, 141 126 119 123 121 114 120 104 115 13a 116 137 124, 130 118 122 113, 140

BI

Pioneer Advertising Brown & Lyon

J. H. Craig... ...... A. B. Johanson Mill Co Lewers & Cooke Lord-Young Engineering Co.. Pacific Engineering Co.... . F. D. Wicke

Chas. H. Will CARRIAGES. W. W. Wright Co W. W. Dimond & Co CHINA. 125.

120, 142 131 125 112

COAL. Honolulu Construction and Braying Co Hustace-Peck Co COFFEE. McChesney Coffee Co CURIOS.

Culman's Curio Store Curio Den Frank Ferreia Sheba's Nippon Bazaar

122 123
115. 120 112 123. 121 104 121 123.

Weedon's Curio Store DRESSMAKERS. Kruse & Lux DRESS GOODS. B. F. Ehlers & Co E. N. Holmes Jordan's . Sachs'

Hall, E. 0. & Son Hammon, D. 0. & Son Hawaii, Bank of

Hawaiian Development Co Hawaiian Electric Co Hawaiian Pineapple Co Hawaiian Pineapple Products Co Hawaiian Trust Co Hendrick, H. E Hilo Drug Store Hilo Electric Light Co

130 125 135

140, 141 131 141 141 136 132 104 104 109

Whitney & Marsh DRUGGISTS. Benson, Smith & Co

Chambers' Drug Store Hilo Drug Store Honolulu Drug Store California Feed Co C. W. Renear Union Feed Co Ethel M. Taylor FEED.

121 122
120 104 112 132 .125 125

FLORIST.

Hilo Hotel Hilo Market Co Hilo Railway

117 130 114

120 117 129 134 104

104 109

FIRE EXTINGUISHER. FISHING.

FRUIT.

Badger Young Bros.

Island Fruit Co

104 . Hilo Mercantile Co 104 Hilo & Hawaii Telephone & Telegraph Co 104 Holmes, E. N 142 Honolulu Cracker Factory 132 Honolulu Construction and Draying Co 111 Honolulu Cyclery 112 Honolulu Drug Store 130, 138, 142 Honolulu Gas Co

Honolulu Music Co Honolulu Photo Supply Co Honolulu Rapid Transit Co Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange
Honolulu Wire Bed Co Hopp, J. & Co Hustace-Peck Co Interisland Steam Navigation Co., Ltd Interisland Wireless Island Fruit Co Johanson, A. B., Mill Co Johnson Sanitorium

112 111 131

137 129 134 125

GROCERIES. American Brokerage Co

FURNITURE. Coyne Furniture Co Honolulu Wire Bed Co J. Hopp & Co G. W. Lockington

138
142 104 121 115 130 104 125

J.

133 111 120 130, 134

Jordan's .
Kaai, Ernest Kahului Railroad Co Kaimuki Land Co Kearns, Mrs. Annie Kelly, Thomas Kerr, Harry L Kershner, J. W Kruse & Lux

138 121 112

108 127 112 138 130 124 123

M. Levy Hilo Market Co Henry May & Co HABERDASHER. Silva's Toggery HARDWARE. E. 0. Hall & Son Hilo Mercantile Co HAIRDRESSING. Doris E. Paris HARNESS.

D. 0. Hallman & Son

125,
110 119. 110 109' 119' 110 113, 140, 109, 119, 119, 119, 100 110 118 119 116 118 119 119

Leland, The Lewers & Cooke Lewis, Ed Levy, J. M

Lockington, G. W Lord-Young Engineering Co., Ltd Lucas Bros Macdonald, The McChesney Coffee Co Magoon Brothers Majestic Hotel

Alexander Young Arlington Cassidy Cottages Demosthenes Donna Gray Haleiwa Hilo Leland 119 Macdonald 128 Majestic . 111 Maui 142 Model . 104 Moans 128 Nuuanu 132 Royal Hawaiian 119 Seaside 112 Shady Nook Vida Villa 134 119 Waikiki Inn

118

INDEX--(Confinued)
PAGE 121 102 124 108 121 134 105 132 118 119 134 104, 112 111 ater
N

J. A. R. Vieira Abadie's French Sanitary Steam Allen & Robinson Lewers & Cooke

JEWELERS. LAUNDRIES. LUMBER.

PAGE 115 123 111, 115 132 128 123 123 129 112 112 130 132 111 122 104, 112 131 104 124 129, 138 112 138 140 108 109 126 126 127 134 129 134 113 113 113 113 132 138 121 115 132 134 13d 113 138 111 120, 125 125 109 11.1 120 133 102 133 102 102 143 103 145 144 136 136 136 138 132

Nicholson, Nuuanu,. The Oahu Ice and Electric Co Oahu Railway Oceanic Steamship Co Pacific Engineering Co., Ltd Pacific Guano and Fertilizer Co Palm Restaurant and Bakery Paragon Paint & Roofing Co Paris, Doris E Park Theater Peerless Preserving Paint Co Pioneer Advertising Co. Pond's Dairy Pratt, James W Quinn, E. W Regal Shoe Co Renear, C. W Royal Hawaiian Hotel Rosenberg, H. Rycroft Brothers Sachs' Sanitary Steam Laundry Savoy Theater Schuman Carriage Co., Ltd Seaside Hotel Shady Nook, The Sheba's Nippon Bazaar SharpSign painter i.. Silva's Toggery Sperry Flour Co Stephenson, Stanley Taylor, Mrs. Ethel M Territorial Board of Immigration Territory Stables Thomas, W. B Trent Trust Co Union Feed Co Union Grill Union Pacific Transfer Co Union Steamship Co., N. Z Vida Villa Vieira, J. A. R Volcano Stables von Hamm-Young Co Waikiki Inn Wall, Nichols Co Waterhouse, Henry, Trust Co Weedon's Curio Store Whitney & Marsh Wicke, F. D Will, Chas. H Williams, Henry II Williamson, William Wright, W. W. Co Yokohama Specie Bank 'Young Brothers

114 145 104 119 138, 142 140 102 130 110 ' ; 113, 142 130 123 114

132 142

116 129

129, 138 115 125 116 134 138 123 111, 115 114 124 118 119 120 132 115 142 134 117 146 125 139 136

143

111

125 113

119 115 109. 117, 124 118 120 136 112 129 104 138 137 125 135 114

121

MILLINERY. Mrs. C. L. Dickerson Dunn's Hat Shop MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. Bergstrom Music Co Honolulu Music Co ORCIIE A'RA. Ernest rnest Kaai PAINT. Paragon Paint & Roofing Co Peerless Preserving Paint Co PHOTOGRAPHERS Honolulu Photo Supply Co A. R. Gurrey, Jr Ernest Moses, Hilo POWER. Hawaiian Electric Co .. Hilo Electric Light Co PLUMBING. John Mattes E. W. Quinn PRESERVES. Mrs. Annie Kearns Thomas Kelly RAILROADS. Oahu Railway Kahului Railroad Co Hilo Railway REAL ESTATE. Charles S. Desky Dondero & Lansing Kannuki Land Co James F. Morgan J. W. Pratt Magoon Brothers RESTAURANTS. Alexander Young Caf Canton Nolte's Beaver Palm . Union Grill SAFES. H. E. Hendrick SANITORIUM. Mary Johnson SHOES. Manufacturers' Shoe Co Regal Shoe Co SIGN PAINTING. Sharp Stanley Stephenson SODA. Arctic Soda Works Consolidated Soda Water Works Co Rycroft Brothers STABLES. Ed. Lewis Club Stables Territory Stables Volcano Stables STATIONERS. Oat & Mossman Wall, Nichols Co Interisland Steamship Co STEAMSHIPS. American-Hawaiian S. S. Co Interisland Steam Navigation Co., Ltd Matson Navigation Co Oceanic S. S. Co Union S. S. Co. of N. Z TOURIST BUREAUS. Hawaii New South Wales Tourist Bureau New Zealand Government Tourist Bureau TRUST COMPANIES. Hawaiian Trust Co Henry Waterhouse Trust Co Trent Trust Co UNDERTAKER. Henry H. Williams WRECKING. Miller Salvage Co., Ltd

113, 142