How I swapped a 1.

9-liter turbo diesel AAZ engine into a 1982 Volkswagen Vanagon West alia diesel
!or edu"ational use onl#$ I a""ept no responsibilit# or loss or da%age resulting ro% t&e use o in or%ation in t&is do"u%ent$ 'onsult a pro essional to %ake sure t&at e(er#t&ing #ou)re doing is "orre"t$
Please send me any comments, corrections, suggestions etc. at tinilk1@yahoo.com. Im sure there are alternate or better ways of doing things than how I did them; let me know about em if you like! his document is written for !eo!le who ha"e hardly any e#!erience working on cars, like me when I started in on this. If you know what youre doing, !lease o"erlook any !ossibly !edantic comments! 1$%&'%$( re"ision. )&$$( *lint *ockrill. +ay be freely distributed.

I wrote this to help others who are going into this project as cluelessly as I did. I had no prior engine-swapping experience, and not much experience working on cars. Ive learned a ton during this project about Vanagons, diesel engines, manual transmissions, and how messy and expensive it is to work on cars. Most o the in o in here is rom various people who answered !uestions and o ered advice while I stumbled through the project. "hanks are especially due to #cott $aniel %oss at "urbovans, Vic &hmed at '(# Imports, )on *ones at )ons "ransaxles, and ellow engine swapper Matt +ollard. "his is written speci ically about installing a ,--. V/ actory-new 0not rebuilt1 2.3-liter turbo diesel 4&&'5 engine rom 6ermany into a 237, diesel Vanagon /est alia camper, in place o the original 2.8-liter normally aspirated 0non-turbo1 diesel engine. My van doesnt have power steering, power brakes or air conditioning. I this isnt exactly the swap that youre considering, some details or major parts o the project may be di erent. 9ope ully this helps you out and you can avoid some o my mistakes and save some money. &gain, please email me with !uestions, comments, suggestions or corrections at tinilk2:yahoo.com. & project like this re!uires a lot o time and money. I you pay someone else to do it, the total cost can easily reach ;7,---, or more i youre installing an electronically monitored engine like a "$I. I did most o the project mysel , and the total cost was over ;8,2-- not including tools 0see appendix or the cost breakdown1. I spent about two months gathering in o ( advice, and about a month working intensively on it. Its now been nearly two years since I inished the project. My van has gone over 2.,--- miles with the new engine. Ive been running on 2--< biodiesel or the past year, 7,=-- o those miles. "he only problems Ive had in that time were the irst used transmission blew up a ter =-- miles, and the exhaust system ell o about a month ago since the welds holding it in place werent very substantial. 6eneral suggestions> +ark the van on lat, level concrete or asphalt. ?ad things can happen on sloped pavement or so t sur aces when you start jacking the van up in the air. &nd its hard to drain and re ill oil and coolant and i everythings slanted.

&lways put the jack under steel beams, and set up a jack stand next to where you jacked it up so you wont get crushed i the jack lets go. $o not jack up the van by putting the jack under the engine, transmission, drive sha ts, suspension, sheet metal areas, etc. "ake some digital pictures or make sketches o how things used to be connected be ore taking them apart. &lso label things religiously as you disconnect them so you know where they should go. 6et more than one opinion be ore making decisions. #omeone will suggest you do something one way because thats how theyve done it, but someone else might know a better, easier or cheaper way. )ead the right section o the repair manual &@@ "9A /&B "9)CD69 be ore doing anythingE "here were more then a ew times when I had to undo a good amount o work that Id done earlier, just be cause I hadnt read the whole section. Fheck the recommended tor!ue or nuts ( bolts in the repair manual, and use your tor!ue wrench whenever you can it it in there. ?e care ul when tightening and try to get a eel or how tight it should be, $CG" just crank down as hard as you can. Its easy to strip the threads by tightening too much, and a stripped stud isnt easy to ix. +ut screws, washers ( nuts back together in their original holes a ter removal, or into the holes where theyll eventually go. "hey wont get lost, and you wont be digging through a co ee can later wondering which are the screws you need.

& little background> I bought my surprisingly rust- ree /esty in Gew 9ampshire last *uly rom the previous owner with 3H,8-- miles on the clock. I met the previous owner at 6regs &uto )epair in Gatick be ore buying it and asked 6reg to look it over. "his was a good idea Icause the mechanic pointed out all the expensive stu that needs ixing, which gave me you leverage to talk the owner down on price, based on the act that youre gonna have to pour J thousand dollars into it to ix all the stu the owner didnt know about. &t this point the engine ran okay so I didnt know what I was getting into, and 6reg had no way to tell how much longer the engine would last. ?ased on 6regs suggestions, I replaced the ront ball joints and the mu ler a ter I bought it, but didnKt do anything to the engine except change the oil. It made it all the way across the country in &ugust last year no problem, and I got a good eel or the 2.8 diesel engineKs, um, limitations during the trip. "he previous owner told me it went through a !uart o oil every 8---2,--- miles, which was probably about right. #eemed a little excessive to me, but then again I knew nothing about diesel engines. /hen I was in northern Fali ornia near Cregon a ew weeks later, the problems began. Cne day the water pump belt lew to pieces, taking the alternator belt out with it, and some bits o belt got caught inside the timing belt cover and made it skip a tooth or two. & mechanic helped me get the timing right again. &t this point I still knew next to nothing about diesel enginesL initially when the belt blew up I thought I had blown the engine somehow Kcause it was suddenly billowing smoke and making a loud clanking noise. "hen one rainy morning it wouldnKt start. I had it towed to another mechanic who said the glow plugs needed replacing. /hile he was doing that I had him install the brand-new spare water pump that I had bought, since the bearing was wearing out on the old one. Anded up costing ;8-- Kcause one o the old glow plugs broke

o and they had to take o the injection pump to get it out. "wice a ter that I had the oil ill tube cap come mysteriously unscrewed 0probably due to vibration1 while driving around and spray oil all over the back o the van and make a real mess behind the engine. $idnKt get any oil on the engine though, strangely enough. In Cctober last year, I was driving down route 3H in northern Fali ornia through the mountains. Foming down a hill dragging in Mth gear, the engine suddenly started making a loud clanking noise. I pulled over and discovered the engine was down about ,-2N, !uarts o oil, which was interesting Kcause the oil was ine when I checked it the day be ore. Go big holes in the block, it wasnKt dumping oil or coolant on the ground or anything. I couldnKt turn the engine either by hand or with a socket wrench on one o the timing belt sprocket nuts, so I igured it wasnKt just the timing belt jumping a tooth again. I igured something ?I6 was probably wrong this time and a ter the other stu that had happened in the previous month, decided it was time to go engine shopping. IKm still not sure exactly what happened, maybe a piston sieOed when the oil mysteriously disappeared or burned o or whatever. It had about 2-M,--- miles on it, which I later discovered is about the average li e o the 2.8 diesel engine in a Vanagon, whereas in a 6ol the same engine can o ten run beyond ,--,--- miles. 9eres the general list o what I did, described in excruciating detail below> 2. Fhose engine 0pg. M1 ,. ?ought engine 0pg. M1 .. )emoved mu ler ( skidplates 0pg. =1 M. )emoved transmission 0pg. =1 =. )eplacement transmission choices 0pg. =1 8. "ransmission oil 0pg. H1 H. )emoved oil pan 0pg. H1 7. $rained coolant 0pg. H1 3. $isconnected things 0pg. 71 2-. )emoved old engine 0pg. 71 22. #wapped lywheel ( clutch 0pg. 31 2,. Mated transmission to engine 0pg. 2-1 2.. #wapped mounting brackets 0pg. 2-1 2M. Installed new engine 0pg. 221 2=. "or!ued engine-transmission bolts 0pg. 221 28. &ttached ront transmission mount 0pg. 221 2H. )econnected things to transmission 0pg. 221 27. Installed oil pump ( oil pan 0pg. 2,1 23. Installed oil cooler 0pg. 2.1 ,-. Installed coolant ittings 0pg. 2.1 ,2. Fonnected accelerator cable 0pg. 2.1 ,,. Fonnected uel line 0pg. 2M1 ,.. Fonnected everything else 0pg. 2M1 ,M. Installed air ilter box 0pg. 2M1 ,=. Installed breather system 0pg. 2=1 ,8. %illed with oil 0pg. 2=1

,H. Cil ill tube comments 0pg. 2=1 ,7. )eplaced radiator an temperature switches 0pg. 2=1 ,3. %illed and bled the cooling system 0pg. 281 .-. Modi ied engine cover 0pg. 2H1 .2. "ransmission blew up 0pg. 2H1 .,. 9ad exhaust system installed 0pg. 271 ... Improved air intake 0pg. 231 .M. %uture stu to do 0pg. 231 /hat I did> 2. +icked out what engine to get. I spent a ew weeks skimming postings on a ew o the relevant BahooE groups 0see appendix1, and emailing people !uestions about the di erences between engine choices. I wanted to stay with diesel because o the uel economy and because my van was already a diesel. Fonverting a gas van to diesel would involve a little more work, such as installing a glow plug relay and switch, installing a cold start cable, widening the gas noOOle opening, and possibly replacing the uel ilter assembly. "heres also debate about whether you can legally register and insure a van that has been converted rom a gasoline to a diesel engine in some states. &s ar as I know, its technically not allowed in Fali ornia. I you want a legal diesel Vanagon in Fali ornia, you have to start with a van that was diesel to begin with. I chose the 2.3-liter turbo diesel Icause its a good per ormance improvement over the original 2.8-liter engine, and everyone I asked said its a simple bolt-in swap into a diesel van with no cutting, grinding, welding or drilling re!uired to make it it. It goes in at the same =--degree mounting angle that the original diesel engine is at, which means it can be made to clear the engine cover without much trouble and without raising the bed in a camper. Most o the other engine choices re!uire modi ications to or new engine mounts, an adapter plate to connect to the transmission, redesign o the wiring harness, etc. "he "$I 0"urbo diesel $irect Injection1 engine is more modern, more e icient and more power ul than the 2.3 "$, however electronically its much more complex and re!uires a good amount o extra work and troubleshooting to make it run in a Vanagon. I was very tempted to buy a "$I because the up- ront cost or a used one is less than a new 2.3 "$ engine, but once you get into the project theres a lot more di iculty involved. It may end up costing thousands o dollars more to put in the "$I i you have to buy the computer, drive-by-wire system, instrument cluster, parts o the wiring harness etc., and o course i you pay someone to install it, as many more hours are re!uired to solve the electronic issues. & number o people have done this though, and ended up with a killer van. %or me it looked like more work, headache and expense than I igured Id be willing to put up with. Initially I was planning to pay a mechanic to do most o the work. 9owever the more I talked to people and the more I ound out about this particular engine, the more I realiOed that I could do the whole thing mysel without having to buy a lot o specialiOed tools, Id learn a lot, and Id probably save a couple thousand dollars.

,. ?ought a new 4complete5 engine or ;.,33= rom Vic &hmed at '(# Imports 0www.Osimports.com1 in +ahrump, Gevada, about =- miles west o @as Vegas. Vic sells some stu on Abay as well, his I$ is 4Vanamania5. I picked it up in a rented minivan rather than having it shipped, which was good Icause I got some extra bits that I wouldnt know I needed otherwise, and got a lot o advice rom Vic. I bought a 3--amp alternator, alternator bracket, water pump, and serpentine pulley system rom him or an extra ;M.= at the same time. Vic gave me a bunch o nuts and special double-ended bolts or mounting the stu , which I wouldve had trouble inding otherwise. I couldve swapped over the water pump, alternator and pulleys rom my old engine, but I think the single serpentine belt setup is a big improvement over the old arrangement and is worth the extra money. I think it also allows accessories like air conditioning or power steering to be installed, although Im not planning to do either. I brought a blue tarp with me so the minivan interior wouldnt get wrecked. Vic gave me a ,x8 to hold up the engine on the way home, and I got two old tires on the way home per his suggestion to help keep the engine rom alling over, as its very top-heavy. It needs to stay upright so the ragile uel lines etc. dont get damaged by the engine lying on them, and also so the oil stays in the oil pan. .. )emoved the old mu ler, tailpipe and protective plates rom underneath the old engine and midsection o the van. I ended up throwing away the rear engine 4diaper5 cover, as a lot o people eel it just gets in the way and keeps you rom noticing luid leaks until they get bad. Its also not thick enough to o er much protection, and tends to make the engine vibration louder rather than !uieter. I put the nuts ( bolts back on the van so I wouldnt lose them or orget where they go. I le t the irst section o exhaust pipe attached to the engine, which turned out to be help ul as a handle to move the engine around later on. I knew Id need to replace the exhaust system with larger pipes, as the stock diesel 2-.NM5 exhaust would create too much backpressure or the new engine. M. *acked up the van and removed the diesel transmission, a ter disconnecting everything rom it according to the repair manuals instructions. Bou can leave the transmission attached to the engine and remove both as a single unit, but I removed the tranny irst so I could trade it in or one with the right gearing be ore I started in with the engine swap. I used string to hold up the drive sha ts a ter they were unbolted. I also used an old tire underneath it to catch it as I removed it, and to help slide it out rom under the van. Its not too heavy or one person to pick up and move it around, even with gear oil in it. "he oil is sealed in the main portion o the transmission, so the clutch housing 0also called a bell housing1 only has air in it and no oil leaks out when you disconnect it rom the engine. $ont laugh, I wasnt sure about thatE "he engine seemed okay without support a ter the tranny was removedL it balances pretty well on the two mounts. Bou could put a jack stand under the end where the tranny used to attach though. I removed the starter rom the transmission and kept it to mount on the new

tranny. In hindsight I couldve drained the gear oil be ore removing it, both to make it lighter and Icause any salvage yard you give it to will want it drained irst. =. "ook the old 4$'5 transmission as a core when buying a used 4$P5 transmission out o an air-cooled gasoline engine Vanagon 0which I think were only made rom 7- to 7.1. I got the used tranny at ?/ &uto $ismantlers in )oseville, F&, just east o #acramento. "he reason or this is the original diesel transmission is geared way too low or the new engine. I I had kept the tranny as-is, my van wouldnt be able to go aster than 8=mph. /ith the air-cooled 4$P5 transmission my top speed is about H7mph. I had three choices> a. "he cheapest option at ;M-- is what I did, swap my tranny or a used one out o an old air-cooled Vanagon, which has the 4tallest5 gear ratios available in a stock unmodi ied transmission. 4"all5 meaning .rd and Mth gears will turn the wheels aster at a lower engine )+M than 4shorter5 gears would. Bou have to swap your bell housing and input sha t to the new transmission, which I had )on at )ons "ransaxles in #an +ablo, F&, do or me. "hat included a new bell housing gasket and gasket sealant, and some other seals, not to mention a lot o enlightening in o about V/ transmissions. b. #econd choice would be to ind a transmission that someone had already rebuilt with taller gear ratios. Boud still have to swap over your bell housing and input sha t, unless theyd already done so. "his might not cost any more than choice &, i you can ind a suitable tranny, and may cost less Icause you can keep your original tranny and sell it to someone else or a couple hundred dollars. ?ut it might be hard to ind one o these or sale. c. "hird choice would be to pay someone to rebuild your existing transmission with taller gears, or around ;H--. & lot o people have experimented with di erent gear ratios, so ask around or advice and other peoples experiences. & spreadsheet or calculating speed at various )+Ms based on transmission gearing, wheel ( tire siOe is available at> http>NNwww.xmission.comNpubNusersNaNacparkerNgearsxl.xls Make sure you keep the bell housing and input sha t rom your old tranny i you go with choice &. "he guy at ?/ &uto was nice enough to drain my old tranny and remove the bell housing and input sha t so I could keep Iem. Boull need them or your transmission to mate up with the &&' engine, because the bolt holes on a water-cooled or air-cooled tranny wont match up with a diesel engine, and the transmission input sha t will be too long to it. Bou may have to pay a core charge and get re unded or it when you give them whats le t o your tranny later. "he transmission I bought was 4good used5, meaning it came straight out o a van in the salvage yard and was checked over. I you do buy a 4good used5 one, make sure whoever you buy it rom opened up the drain plug and made sure there werent any broken gear teeth or shavings in there, looked at the gears or wear, replaced the seals around the input sha t and drive sha ts and any others that were leaking, and hooked it up to an engine and ran it or

awhile to make sure it at least seems to run okay. &s I discovered later on, good used transmissions arent always that great Icause theres no way to tell how long theyll last be ore needing a rebuild. "his was the single most aggravating part o the project. I I had this choice to make again, Id choose a rebuilt tranny with taller gears, or have my original one rebuilt, in a heartbeat. Aven i it ended up costing more it wouldve been worth it to avoid having to replace the transmission again. #wapping the diesel bell housing and input sha t onto another tranny isnt all that di icult, i you dont have any trouble getting the input sha t out. Im glad I paid someone else to do it, Icause I wouldnt be sure o what I was doing and might easily have done something wrong that destroyed the transmission 0the transmission destroyed itsel later anyway, but thats another story1. I you want to do it yoursel , ask around or someone whos done it and ollow the steps in the repair manual, though I think the ?entley manual leaves out a ew details. Boud need a new input sha t seal, a new circlip to hold the input sha t together, a new paper bell housing gasket, some gasket sealant, maybe a ew special tools. Itd be much easier i you can prop up the transmission housing vertically with the bell housing on top. 8. Cpened one o the hex illNdrain plugs on the 4new5 transmission, put in about a hal -!uart o new gear oil, and closed and tightened the plug. )olled the transmission around so the oil sloshed around the inside. "hen opened the drain plug 0on the bottom near the bell housing end1 and drained the oil. "his is to remove some o the le tover oil that was still in there, so it wont contaminate the new oil as much. I didnt ill the transmission with new oil yet, its better to do that once its mounted on the van so it gets illed to the right level. I bought = !uarts o )ed @ine M"-3- oil 0www.redlineoil.com1 at around ;3 per !uart. Its relatively expensive, but everyone Ive asked says its the best stu or these transmissions and will help the synchros last longer. H. $rained the oil out o the old engine by opening the drain plug at the rear o the oil pan. I tilted the engine back and orth a ew times to help it drain out, which you cant do i your transmission is still attached. "hen I unbolted and removed the oil pan, which needs to go on the new engine later. &lso removed the oil pickup tube, which angles down to suck up oil rom the inside bottom o the oil pan, and the oil pimp. "he oil pickup tube needs to replace the one in the new engine. 7. $rained the coolant out o the engine per the repair manuals instructions, into a big )ubbermaid-type container. I you just ran the engine, wait a ew hours or it to cool o be ore doing this. Foolant at operating temperature will burn youE Go matter how care ul you are, this is really messy and tends to get coolant all over the garage or driveway. /atch out when disconnecting the middle hose connection on the water pump, it just loods out all over the place. &lso disconnect the lower coolant hose at the radiator in ront, which is hard to get to. I lowered the spare tire bracket and pushed the tire out o the way and it was still di icult to get it o . It really gushes out o here too and splashes everywhere, but i you dont disconnect this hose too then youll only drain about hal the coolant. )emember to reconnect this coolant line laterEEE

I alternated between jacking up the ront then the back o the van to help the coolant drain out. I also pulled the engine back and orth to help it drain, since my transmission was already out and the engine was balanced on the two mounts. @eave pans under every drain point i you can. & hose that was empty can suddenly dump more coolant when you open another connection somewhere else or jack up another part o the van. 3. $isconnected everything rom the engine per the repair manuals engine removal instructions. /henever I disconnected anything, I wrapped what I disconnected with tape and wrote a number on it with a marker. "hen I wrapped tape around where it was eventually supposed to connect to on the new engine and wrote the same number there so I wouldnt lose track. "he uel lines were too hard to get o so I just cut them with wire cutters, as close to the itting as possible so I could reuse them. @uckily there didnt seem to be any diesel uel le t in them, so they didnt make a mess.

2-. )ented an engine hoist or ;,3 and removed the engine with a riends help. "he hoist could be disassembled so I was able to it all the pieces in another riends *etta to drive it home. /e jacked up the back o the van and dropped the engine out the bottom. Bou cant pull it out o the top with a hoist Icause the roo gets in the way. #ome people build a short &rame out o ,xMs and a cable hoist, but I think it was worth it to rent a real hoist. /e put down a piece o cardboard to drop it onto 0old carpet works well too1, rolled the hoist into place and bolted the chain to whatever spots we could ind on diagonal corners o the old engine. /e jacked the hoist up a little so it was supporting the engines weight. Gext we removed the M big bolts that hold the two engine mounting bars on the van, which isnt very easy. & hammer and a piece o metal or something to push the bolts out with while hammering may help. "he mounting bars and the aluminum brackets that connect them to

the engine were still attached to the old engine. /e care ully lowered the engine, making sure there wasnt anything still connected and checking so as not to let it get hung up anywhere. Cnce on the cardboard we just disconnected the chain and slid the engine out rom underneath. I you need to move it, the engine can be picked up by two people but it aint the lightest thing in the world. I wouldnt try picking up the 2.3"$ engine with just two people, its a bit heavier. I read somewhere that it weighs about .H- pounds. I didnt clean the engine bay very much, but now is the easiest time to do it, when theres nothing in the way.

22. #wapped the lywheel and clutch onto the new engine. "his is much easier to do now than later when the new engine is installed. I was told that the stock diesel clutch should be strong enough, so I reused it, no problems so ar. $ont let the new engine tilt towards the lywheel end, as engine oil can come out o the lywheel bolt holes be ore the bolts are inE "he repair manual says to 4always replace5 the lywheel bolts, but that isnt really necessary. "he bolt holes arent evenly spaced, so itll only go on one way. I put blue threadlocker 0@octite1 on the lywheel bolts, this is really important Icause i the bolts came loose while driving, your lywheel would all o and probably destroy itsel and the clutch and tranny input sha t. )ed threadlocker works too but is more permanent, so you may not be able to get the bolts out again i you ever need to. I cleaned the clutch plate sur ace with acetone. I it has any oil or other stu on it, it may not grab as well as it should. #ome people say you should scu up the sur ace o the clutch with sandpaper so it grabs better, but then your clutch will wear out aster. $ont do thisE It comes rom the actory with a polished sur ace or a reason. 2,. @ining up the clutch disc while tightening the pressure plate down was a little tricky. 0Ive heard since doing the swap that theres a tool in clutch kits to easily align it.1 I put the bolts in loosely, then got the disc about lined up and tightened the bolts enough with my inger to

just hold the disc in place. "hen I looked down the center hole and pushed the disc around with my inger in the hole until it looked centered. "hen I tightened the bolts to the speci ied tor!ue o ,= G-m 027 t-lb1, alternating diagonally and tightening each one a little at a time instead o all at once. 2.. ?olted the $P transmission to the new engine, and bolted my original diesel starter motor to the transmission. "his can also be done a ter the new engine is installed, but its much easier be orehand, especially mounting the starter motor. Id suggest bolting the tranny to the engine irst then mounting the starter, otherwise the starter gear sha t might damage your lywheel gear teeth while youre trying to line everything up. My engine came with the input sha t pilot needle bearing already installed, but apparently not all engines necessarily come with it. "he engines gonna be mounted at the same =--degree angle that the old engine was, so i its standing upright then the transmission will only line up i the transmission is lying over at a =--degree angle. /e had Iem both standing upright and noticed that the bolt holes didnt line up, duhE & ter it was slid into place, I tightened the bolts but thought Id wait Itill the whole thing was installed on the van to tor!ue them, since theres no easy way to keep everything rom turning while pulling on the tor!ue wrench. 2M. #wapped the aluminum brackets and mounting bars onto the new engine. +retty straight orward, but can be a bit o a pain to move the engine around to get Iem on there. Its probably easier to mount them to the engine now, rather than mounting them to the van then bolting them to the engine a ter hoisting it into place.

2=. 9oisted the new engine into place and re-bolted the support bars to the van. It was a bit o a pain to get everything lined up, some hammering re!uired be ore we could get all the bolts in. "he our engine mounting bar bolts get tor!ued to 7= G-m 08. t-lb1. /e didnt seem to need to support the ront o the transmission be ore bolting it on, the engine mounts held it up ine.

28. "or!ued down the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts. "he ?entley manual was a bit con using. In one place it said to tor!ue all the bolts to .- G-m 0,, t-lb1, but that doesnt seem tight enough. Alsewhere it said M= G-m 0.. t-lb1 on the small M2- bolts and 7- G-m 0=3 t-lb1 on the large M2, bolts, which seems more like it. 2H. )aised the transmission with the loor jack, and screwed the orward transmission mounting bolts into the rame cross-member. "he air-cooled tranny seemed to want to mount to a di erent set o holes on the rame than the diesel tranny had mounted to, but there wasnt a nut welded in on one o the our rame holes so I could only screw in three o the bolts. I also had to pull the transmission orward with a cable hoist a little bit to get it to line up with the bolt holes. I hooked the cable hoist to the rame somewhere near the ront o the van. 27. )econnected the clutch hydraulic cylinder, starter wires, ground strap, back-up light wires, and drive sha ts to the transmission. "he strip o metal that supports the clutch cylinder bracket didnt want to it so I gave up on it. I should dremel it to it and install it at some point, as theres enough pressure exerted by the clutch cylinder that its mounting bracket might bend otherwise. %or some reason the metal support isnt shown in the ?entley manual. "he drive sha t bolts I have are the older style ones with allen heads, rather than regular hex heads. "he allen bit stripped out the heads on a ew o them while I was tor!uing them down, so I had to go get some new ones. Bou may want to buy extras be orehand in case this

happens, or just buy a whole set o bolts with hex heads instead o allen heads. 23. $rained the green break-in oil out o the new engine so I could swap over the old oil pan and pickup tube. I waited Itill it was in the van to do this, since the engine would be conveniently suspended and held in place. I wouldve kept the break-in oil to re-use, except I wasnt sure I had enough. & ter undoing the bolts I had to use a screwdriver to get the oil pan to come unstuck rom the engine. &t this point I shouldve prepared the metal dipstick 0the one in the engine block1 to be calibrated. "his is done by removing the dipstick, tapping out 0 rom the bottom1 the tube that it its into, holding the old oil pan against the engine while pushing the dipstick back in until it hits the bottom o the oil pan and stops, measuring how much to saw o the top end o the dipstick tube so the dipstick goes down as ar as it is now, sawing o the top end o dipstick tube, and putting it back on. #ince I didnt do it Ill have to wait until the irst oil change and do it then. /hen the engine is ready to ill with oil, the dipstick can be calibrated by putting in exactly ..3 !uarts o oil 0including what you put in the oil ilter be ore screwing it on1, replacing the dipstick and marking the level as the 4low5 line on the dipstick with a hacksaw, then adding exactly one more !uart and marking the level as the 4high5 line on the dipstick. Dnbolted the oil pump, which the oil pickup tube is attached to. I pulled out both so that the oil pump gears wouldnt all out accidentally with nothing to hold them up there, and get dented. "he orange windage tray stays installed when the pickup tube and oil pan are swapped. ?e ore swapping the pickup tube rom my old engine in place o the new one, I pried o the metal cover on the end and cleaned out the pieces o grit and cleaned o the screen. I crimped it back on with a hammer and screwdriver. "hen I installed the pickup tube and oil pump and tor!ued the bolts. I think I used the bolts rom the old engine, since the new ones seemed too long. I reinstalled the new oil pump since I wasnt sure i the old one would it exactly in the new engine.

"he new engine has a nice reusable rubber oil pan gasket, so no need or a paper gasket or any raOor blade scraping. I cleaned up the gasket sur ace o the old oil pan, cleaned up the old oil and grit out on the inside, and cleaned o the outside as best I could. Ideally you could take it to a mechanic or transmission repair shop that has a hot water cleaning tank, which would clean it up a lot better. I applied the "oyota gasket sealant to the oil pan lange, replaced the orange windage tray, bolted the oil pan in place and tor!ued down all the bolts. "he two or three bolts next to the transmission are nearly impossible to get to with a socket, so I wasnt able to tor!ue them down as much as they should be. I dont think you can even get to them when the transmissions removed, since the plate on the engine that covers the bell housing is still in the way. I I could ind a long enough torx driver thats the right siOe, I couldve tightened them some more. ,-. #wapped the oil cooler rom the old engine to the new one, including the sha t that it mounts to. Fleaned o the o-ring and put some engine oil on it to make sure it made a good seal. ,2. )emoved the two coolant hose ittings rom the old engines cylinder head, cleaned up the gasket sur ace with a raOor blade and acetone be ore replacing the paper gaskets, and mounted them on the new engine with gasket sealant. I got the gaskets rom Vic at '(# Imports. Gote that the two gaskets are di erentL one has the bolt holes in line with the center hole and the other has them o set. I used a thin layer o black "oyota engine gasket sealant 0thanks or the suggestion, #cottE1 on both metal sur aces. It cost ;28 at a "oyota dealers parts department, expensive but apparently its really good stu . It comes in a .-ounce white tube with instructions, a metal key or s!ueeOing it out, and an applicator noOOle which I didnt use. "he box and tube both read 4"oyota #eal +ackaging 2-, 0%I+61, +NG --,3=---2-., %or Cil +anNFamsha t 9ousing5. "he instructions say 4$C GC" apply onto copper or copper alloys5 0 or instance to seal brass radiator thermostats, which I used it or later anyway1 4in a closed state5, not sure what that means. ,,. #wapped the old accelerator cable bracket in place o the one on the new engine, which is a little bit di erent. 9ad to bend it so the angle and length o the cable would be similar to what they were on the old engine. Aven then I could only put in one o the two bolts, the other hole didnt line up on the new engine. &t some point I should probably drill another hole andNor bend it so I can attach it with both bolts. I used the throttle arm that came on the new engine, but bent the arm down so the angle that the cable pulls at is similar to how it was on the old engine. I also lipped the 4ball5 connector to the bottom o the arm, as it was on my old engine, be ore attaching the cable.

,.. #wapped the diesel uel intake tube, which the uel line coming rom the uel ilter attaches to, rom the old engine in place o the one on the new engine. "he one on the new engine was bigger and wouldnt it my uel line. Aven with the old itting, the uel line was a bit hard to get on there all the way. "he uel return tube on the new engine was the right siOe or the return line, so I didnt have to swap that. ,M. &ttached the coolant hoses, uel lines, throttle ( cold start cables and electrical stu to the new engine. &ll the connections are in basically the same places as on the old engine. I your coolant hose clamps are all rusted Id suggest getting new ones, it makes them much easier to deal with. I adjusted the cold start cable length per the repair manuals instructions. & ter attaching the throttle cable, I checked that the range o travel is about right by asking someone to push the accelerator all the way down while I watched the lever move. "he new engine has an oil pressure sensor on the oil ilter mount, which I didnt connect anything to. I you wanted to add an oil pressure gauge to your dashboard, you could connect it to that. "he new 3--amp alternator has di erent connectors than the old 8=-amp one did. I cut away the white plastic .-connection plug that it the old alternator so I could connect its two ?Q and single $Q wires to the new alternator 0see picture on previous page1. &t some point later I may install a tachometer that connects to the / terminal. ,=. Installed an air ilter box and air hoses rom a I3, $odge Faravan at a salvage yard, per Vics suggestion. "he air box and hose rom any 7H-3. $odge Faravan or +lymouth Voyager with a V8 engine, ..--liter or ...-liter, should work. I bought an air ilter or it rom an auto parts store. It its nicely in ront o the drivers-side taillight, and the hose its snugly around the hose coming down rom the 4snorkel5 air vent behind the rear window. "he hoses are pretty big diameter and the ilter is reasonably big, so as not to restrict the air low into the turbo too much. ?ut there are better a termarket ree- low ilters available. I bought a long black plastic oil unnel and some big hose clamps rom an auto parts store, cut the unnel to it inside the hose coming o the air box on one end, and tightly it the outside o the turbo inlet on the other end. "his isnt a very good solution, the unnel is already cracking and Ill have to replace it with something more permanent sometime. It doesnt seal very well so its probably letting some un iltered air in which is not good. I could have a thick-walled unnel machined rom aluminum to the right diameters, and get a short piece o rubber radiator hose o the right diameter to connect the turbo inlet to the

aluminum unnel. "hen use three hose clamps to seal the air box hose to the unnel, unnel to the short radiator hose, and radiator hose to the turbo inlet. ,8. Installed a plastic breather, V/ part R-,7-2,3-2-2-$, which I ordered rom a V/ dealer or way too much money, into the rubber 4chimney5 on top o the oil cover. "he new engine has a hole on the side o the engine block thats supposed to connect to one itting on the breather. *ohn at %reds V/ ound me a similar plate with two metal pipe ittings on it, and sold me some heat-resistant radiator hose to connect to the ittings. I saw a plate with a larger single itting on it on one o Vics vans, but wasnt sure where to get one so I installed the one *ohn gave me. I cleaned it up with raOor blade and acetone and bolted it on with a thin coating o the "oyota black sealant goop 0it shouldve had a paper gasket but I couldnt ind one1. "hen I went to an auto parts store and bought a +restone coolant lush kit that had some 4"5 connectors that looked like theyd work, along with a ribbed radiator hose rom a rack behind the counter and some hose clamps. I connected the two hoses rom the plate to the ribbed radiator hose with one o the 4"5 connectors and some hose clamps, and connected the radiator hose to the breather with a hose clamp. "he other itting on the breather is supposed to return oily air to the turbo inlet. I used one o the straight connectors rom the coolant lush kit to connect the breather to one o the hoses that *ohn sold me, along with a hose clamp. I cut a hole in the side o the rubber air box hose leading to the turbo inlet and pushed another o the coolant lush kit connectors through it, sort o sealing the connector to the inside o the air box hose with some more "oyota gasket goop. "hen I connected the other end o the radiator hose to the connector with a hose clamp. VoilS, breather systemE I probably couldve ound the right ittings and hoses to use or this i Id looked around more. ,H. %illed the engine with M.3 !uarts 0including the oil that I put in the new oil ilter1 4#&A .9$ 09eavy $uty15 oil, to be used or the thousand-mile break-in period. #ince my old oil pan still has the license plate oil ill tube and dipstick on it, I igured Id use that dipstick or the time being. "he dipstick that came in the engine block wont be accurate at the =--degree mounting angle, unless its re-marked as described in step R23. ,7. I may have a metal plate made at some point, to cover up the hole in the oil pan, so I can get rid o that tube during a uture oil change. "he 7, style plastic tube with the cap tends to come unscrewed rom the vibration and spray oil all over the inside and outside o the back o the van. &lso one o the screw holes is cracked on mine so its only a matter o time be ore it starts seriously leaking. "he new engine has a regular oil ill cap on the valve cover so I dont really need the license plate tube, although the dipstick back there is much more convenient than the one on top o the engine. ,3. )eplaced both the high and low temperature switches on the radiator 0in the ront o the van, behind the top grille1, prior to putting in coolant. I ordered these or too much money rom the V/ dealer. "hese do stop working eventually, so its a good idea to replace them i youre not sure whether your an comes on when it should. I the an doesnt come on when needed, the engine could overheat. Bou need a long ,3mm socket to get these out and to screw in the new ones and tor!ue them. I didnt have the round paper washer gaskets so I

just used the "oyota gasket sealant. +robably shouldve used some other kind o sealant, since the "oyota stu explicitly warns you not to use it on copper alloys 0such as brass, which the thermostats are made o 1. .-. %illed and bled the coolant system. Bou have to start the engine to bleed it, so make sure everything else has been done, especially the engine oil and transmission oil, and everything looks connected and looks ready to go. I used +restones 6M $excool knocko , mixed hal -and-hal with distilled water. Gote that this stu is orange and comes in a grey bottle, and is di erent than the standard green +restone anti reeOe in the yellow bottle. "wo people Ive asked think $excool is the best stu to use. #econd best is V/s phosphate- ree coolant. ?leeding the system is very important, otherwise therell be air in the coolant lines, which could overheat the engine and destroy it. Got good. I had someone help by watching or coolant coming out o the bleeder screw. I you have another helper to push on the throttle lever thats even better. 9eres how to bleed it> a. Make sure youve re-attached all the coolant hoses 0including the one that was removed rom the radiator in the ront o the vanE1, and tightened all the hose clamps. b. +re-mix two one-gallon containers o coolant with two gallons o distilled water, so that you have our gallons o mixed hal -and-hal coolant ( water. c. *ack up the ront o the van about M5 higher than the back. d. "ake o the upper ront grille and loosen the bleeder screw, which is on the top o the radiator on the passengers side. "ake o the little rubber cap on it. I taped a soda can on there to collect over lowing coolant, but the better way to do it would be to put a transparent bleeder hose on the top o the bleeder screw and connect it to a bottle to collect the coolant. e. +ush the heater lever on the dashboard to 4hot5, so the heater valve is open, letting coolant low into the heater core. . Dnscrew the metal expansion tank cap 0which is to the right o the engine, not the over low tank with a plastic snap-on cap behind the license plate1 and ill it with as much premixed coolantNwater mixture as itll hold. Bou may want to use a unnel so it doesnt spill everywhere. g. @et it sit or 2--2= minutes with the cap o . h. "op it o again and let stand another = minutes. i. &sk a riend to watch the radiator bleeder screw and screw it in when it starts pouring out in a steady stream, instead o just burbling out a little now ( then. &lso ask them to tell you when they do so. "hey should be care ul in case the coolant is hot enough to burn. j. #tart the van and hold the throttle at about 2,=-- rpm. "his is easier i you have someone to hold the throttle lever, but I did it by putting a socket extension in there to hold the throttle at the right position. k. Immediately be ready to add coolant, itll start going down right away. $ont let it get lowE &s soon as your riend notices the coolant streaming out steadily and

tightens the bleeder screw, make sure the expansion tank is topped o , screw the tank cap back on, let o the throttle, and turn o the engine. l. %ill the over low tank 0behind the license plate1 to the 4max5 mark. +ut the rubber cap back on the bleeder screw and put the grille back on. m. #ometime later a ter youve been driving around long enough or the engine to heat up, park the van, turn o the engine, take o the upper grille, and slowly unscrew the bleeder screw. #top unscrewing when you hear air escaping, and tighten it back up as soon as coolant starts spurting out 0dont get burnedE1 or no more air is escaping. n. Fheck the expansion tank level or a ew days once you start driving the van regularly, and top it o whenever its not completely ull up to the brim. .2. I must admit that Im not !uite sure how keeping the over low tank at the 4max5 mark makes any di erence, as it doesnt seem to me that coolant in the over low tank would ever be pulled back up through the hose i the coolant level got low. .,. )ealiOed that the metal engine cover doesnt it. @uckily only one part inter eres, whats called the 4aneroid5 on top o the uel pump, and it mostly inter eres with the support beam that runs down the middle along the bottom o the cover. "his beam can be cut without any apparent dire conse!uences. I put the cover in place, and reached in through the license plate hole to mark with a marker where to cut the beam. I bought a $remel cutting tool and cut away that part o the beam entirely. /hen I checked the cover on the van, it still hit, but not very much. I started wondering whether I could beat it out with a big hammer, when I realiOed that my .-ton loor jack was the per ect toolE I ound a suitably spaced concrete column in a parking garage and went to work. It was a little hard to hold the jack and everything in place, but it worked great and didnt tear the metal. I had to wedge my socket set and wrench set in against the top sur ace as 4spacers5 so it would push out enough. Gow I have a little bumped-up spot on top o the engine cover that bears the imprint o some joints between the concrete blocks. &nd I didnt have to raise the bed or weld something in and cut up the bed cushion just to it the engine. ... &t this point, I shouldve installed an exhaust system. Instead I drove the van ,=- miles down to coast to meet my parents or Fhristmas. Got as loud as you might think, since the turbo mu les a lot o the noise, but still loud. &lso I would ratherve been able to break the engine in with city driving, not barreling down the highway, but didnt have much choice. Cn the highway on the way back, a ter around M=- miles total, the van started bucking now and then, as i the engine were mis iring intermittently. It kept getting worse, and eventually became a loud grinding noise and the van started really slowing down. I realiOed it was the transmission, not the engine, and I no longer had a ourth gear. It wasnt popping out o gear,

it was still in gear but the gears were grinding across each other instead o meshing. I pulled onto a secondary road to stop and look at it, but o course everything was happening inside the tranny. I igured the transmission would need rebuilding anyway at this point so more harm would be done by limping home in third gear, which I did. & ew miles later, third gear started grinding too. I eventually made it home with only second gear and reverse le t. I took it to )on, his guess was the main sha t bearing wore out, apparently one o the irst things to wear out on these transmissions. &t the same time this allowed that the input sha t to come loose, letting tranny oil leak out the ront into the bell housing. "he tranny was still under warranty, but it took ?/ &uto a week to ind a suitable replacement. +lus o course I had to disconnect and remove the tranny, drain it, remove the starter, bell housing and input sha t, drive it to ?/ &uto in a rental car and get the new one, take the new one to )on to swap the bell housing and input sha t onto it, take it home and install it and reconnect everything, and ill it with another ;M- worth o M"-3- gear oil. &pparently 4good used5 transmissions are luck o the draw, theres just no way to know how long itll be good or. .M. 6ot an exhaust lange and had an exhaust system installed. Bou need a lange to have the exhaust system installed so therell be someplace to weld the irst pipe onto. I got the lange rom Matthew +ollard 0mpteleski:yahoo.com1, who had some stainless steel langes made that are siOed or a ,-2NM5 exhaust pipe. %langes are also available rom Vic 0sales:Osimports.com1 and #cott %oss 0scottdaniel:turbovans.com1 plans to make some langes with downpipes as well. Averyone who I asked said to use ,-2NM5 diameter exhaust pipe. I had the exhaust installed by @i etime Mu lers ( ?rakes in )edwood Fity or ;.--. I took a printout o some pictures that Parl Mullendore took o a nice exhaust system he installed while swapping an &&' engine into a #yncro. 9aving pictures to give to the exhaust installer made it really easy. I cant seem to get to Parls pictures online anymore, so email me i youd like to see Iem. "hey made it out o aluminiOed pipe, which seems to be the standard material or exhausts. I considered stainless steel, but was told that stainless would be more likely to develop cracks at the welds, since the exhaust will be directly mounted to the engine and vibrate a lot. &luminiOed tubing is more lexible and less likely than stainless to crack under continuous vibration. "he exhaust guys welded a 27--degree pipe 0which they had to custom bend1 to the lange, then a braided lex connection, a 3--degree bend pipe, glasspack mu ler across the back o the van, then a !uestion-mark-shaped tailpipe, and a chrome tip. "he glasspack is supported by two bars that mount to rubber vibration isolators, which mount where the original isolators were. Most 4glasspack5 mu lers actually contain stainless steel mesh rather than iberglass. Its basically a straight through pipe with scoops cut into the sides, which allow the exhaust gases to expand to the outside o the pipe, where the mesh absorbs some o the noise. I had concerns about a glasspack being !uiet enough, its certainly not the !uietest option available, but I think its a good compromise. & standard oval mu ler would be !uieter, but

I was told that the seams on oval mu lers arent constructed to handle a lot o vibration. "here are also more expensive 4per ormance5 mu lers with better seams available, but these are much more expensive, and harder to it in the limited space behind and below the engine.

.=. %inally replaced the air intake hose connection to the turbo air inlet with something more robust. I ound a radiator hose at &utoOone with a diameter transition that was nearly right, coupled that with a grey +VF electrical coupling rom the hardware store, and wrapped some duct tape around the coupling to bring it up to the right diameter to hose clamp to the hose rom the airbox. It its nicely and is a lot better than the plastic unnel I had on there. Ive since learned that duct tape may get all slimy and gross a ter prolonged exposure to oil. +erhaps not the best choice or a hose diameter spacer. .8. &nd thats itE /ell not !uite. Cther stu I should do sometime> 6et rid o original plastic oil ill tube and dipstick Falibrate the length o the dipstick on top o the engine Install oil pressure gauge, turbo boost gauge, tachometer, oil temp and coolant temp gauges Install an intercooler somewhere

&ppendix> 2. Gecessary tools etc.> ,-ton loor jack 0at least1, and the original actory jack. "wo ,-ton 0at least1 jack stands. %our is better. )egular ( +hillips screwdrivers. Metric socket set with 7,2-,22,2,,2.,2H,23mm sockets. Mine are .N75 drive. Metric box-end wrench set in the same siOes as above. )eversible socket ratchet handle. Mines around 75 long. "or!ue wrench about 275 long that can be set anywhere between H and 7- t. lb. 03-2-7 G-m1. Mines 2N,T drive so I needed an adapter to use it with my .N75 drive sockets. #ocket extension bar set. Mine has .5, 85 and 2-5 extensions, all o which are use ul. @ong 23mm socket to put in and tor!ue the special alternator bracket bolts on the new engine, which you cant get at with a short socket or a box-end wrench. @ong ,3mm socket i you plan to replace the thermostats on your radiator. I couldnt ind one so I got a long 2-2N75 socket instead, which is a little small but it worked. =mm and 8mm metric hex 0&llen1 sockets. 8mm and 7mm metric @-shaped &llen wrenches. @arge adjustable wrench. @arge and small Vise-grip tools. Cil ilter wrench 0.-2N,5 to .-HN751. #pecial wrench with a solid hex 2Hmm lug or transmission oil drain plugs. Cther options are get an internal pipe wrench or a 2N, inch pipe nipple, which I ound in the bathroom plumbing section at 9ome $epot 0see picture1, or make your own by jamming two metric 7mm nuts against each other on a 7mm bolt 0however the bolt head will it the drain plug a bit sloppily1. Dse an adjustable wrench with either o the above. $remel rotary tool with abrasive cuto wheel to modi y the underside o the engine cover to accommodate the new engine 0i you have a metal engine cover1. I you want to cut a rectangular hole in the engine cover and weld a cake pan to it instead, then a saber saw, jigsaw or 4sawO-all5 will do but o course youll also need a welder and youll have to cut some oam out o the bed cushion i you have a camper. I you have a plastic engine cover, you may have to replace it with a metal one. Im not sure but I doubt the new engine will it under a plastic cover. ?right lashlight and plenty o batteries. Dtility kni e or cutting hoses etc. Angine craneNhoist good or M--lbs. I rented one or ;,3 rom #an Mateo )entals in F& or the one day I needed it. Fontainers to catch drained engine oil, transmission oil and coolant 0=- or 2--!uart or engine oil, =- or 2--!uart or transmission oil, and at least one ,--!uart or coolant1.

"wo transparent 2N,-gallon containers with measurement markings on the side, or premixing coolant and water. @i!uid threadlocker 0@octite1, either blue 0medium strength1 or red 0permanent1, or the lywheel bolts, drive sha t bolts and a bolt on the shi t linkage. Molybdenum disul ide grease and regular multipurpose grease. %ive !uarts o #&A 7- 9$ 0heavy-duty1 engine oil. = !uarts o suitable transmission gear oil. "he best stu to use is )edline M"-3-. "wo gallons o 6M $excool or V/ phosphate- ree coolant. "wo gallons distilled water. Volkswagen Vanagon repair manual. I have the 4C icial %actory )epair Manual5 by ?entley +ublishers. "here are probably better manuals out there. "he ?entley manual assumes youre a trained mechanic so it doesnt spend any time explaining general car repair knowledge, just has the bare minimum step-by-step overview o how to do something.

It was also help ul to have> 9ammer or mallet to beat stu into place. 9acksaw or calibrating dipstick and marking dipstick. Multimeter. "ape measure. Vernier calipers. Fable hoist, also known as a winch or come-along. 6ood or pulling on stubborn things like transmissions that dont want to line up with their bolt holes. &lso good or maybe pulling van out o the mud, or pulling mine onto a D-9aul tow dolly when it wouldnt start and I had a long drive ahead o me. "arp0s1 to put under engines and other oily drippy stu . &cetone to clean the clutch disc and coolant ittings. @ots o paper towels or rags. "wo old tires to keep the engine upright and protect it while driving home, i you pick it up yoursel . &lso were handy sometimes to keep the van rom rolling while moving it. 275 long ,xM or ,x8 to hold the new engine propped upright until it gets installed. Mechanics coveralls, or old shirt and jeans you dont care about. Mechanics creeper, so you dont have to slide all over the place on your back. $igital camera to record how stu used to be attached, and to email pictures.

,. #ome relevant BahooE groups> 0my BahooE I$ is 4clintclock51 "$I-conversion 0http>NNautos.groups.yahoo.comNgroupN"$I-conversionN1 "ons o in ormation and relevant discussion about "$I and "$ engine swaps. turbovans 0http>NNautos.groups.yahoo.comNgroupNturbovansN1 )un by #cott %oss, tons o in o about turbo diesel and #ubaru engine swaps. $iesel-Vanagon 0http>NNautos.groups.yahoo.comNgroupN$iesel-VanagonN1 Intended or stock diesel Vanagon owners, but more discussion lately about turbo diesels.

dieselvolkswagenclub 0http>NNautos.groups.yahoo.comNgroupNdieselvolkswagenclubN1 Got turbo diesel oriented, but there may be some relevant stu here somewhere. .. +eople I know o who have done or are willing to do Vanagon engine swaps> /esty Ventures 0http>NNwww.mindspring.comNUthewestymanN1 contact Parl Mullendore 0thewestyman:mindspring.com1 .... 6apland )oad, 6apland M$ ,2H.8 .-2-M.,-M8M= "urbovans 0www.turbovans.com1 contact #cott $aniel %oss 0scottdaniel:turbovans.com1 +C ?ox 2,77, "alent C) 3H=M=M2-3=2-72=2 %ast %orward &utomotive 0www. ast orward.ca1 contact> $avid Marshall 0vanagon:volkswagen.org1 M.=8 Vuesnel-9ixon )oad, Vuesnel ?F, Fanada V,* 8'. ,=--33,-HHH= phone, ,=--33,-228- ax 6o/esty 0http>NNwww.gowesty.comNdieselWinWvanagon.html1 contact> @ucas Valdes 0lucas:gowesty.com1 2223-& @os Clivos &venue, @os Csos, F& 3.M-, 777-M83-.H73 sales, 7-=-=,7-H77H ax Vanagon +rojekt 0www.vanagonprojekt.com1 contact> sales:vanagonprojekt.com ,==2 #econd #treet, @ivermore F& 3M==3,=-MMH-7,,M phone, 3,=-MMH-=3MM ax $ieselgeek 0www.dieselgeek.com1 contact> jim:dieselgeek.com H-2- $eborah $rive, &ustin, "J H7H=, =2,-M=7-=8-Valley /agon /orks 0www.valleywagonworks.com1 contact> Foby #mollens 0in o:valleywagonworks.com1 23. Mill #treet, #an )a ael, F& 3M3-2 M2=-M=H-=8,7 phone, M2=-H7=-.H2M ax

Vendors I used> Angine, alternator, water pump, serpentine belt system, intercooler> '(# Imports 0www.Osimports.com1 Vic &hmed 0sales:Osimports.com1 ,772 /. ?losser )anch )d., +ahrump, GV 73-8HH=-=.H--=H8 phoneN ax Angine hoist> #an Mateo )entals 2M2M Aast .rd &venue, #an Mateo, F& 3MM-2 8=--.M,-73M2 phone, 8=--.M,-8.3= ax "ransmission> ?/ &uto $ismantlers 0www.bwautodismantlers.com1 *e ?uchanan 0sales:bwautodismantlers.com1 ,-.2 +.%.A. )oad, )oseville, F& 3=HMH 7---.,H--777 phone, 328-H7,-,3-. ax "ransmission bell housing ( input sha t swap> )onKs "ransaxles )on *ones 2-.= ?roadway, #an +ablo F& 3M7-8 =2--,.=-8,8. &ir ilter box ( hoses rom $odge Faravan> $orris &uto /reckers 0www.dorrisauto.com1 sales:dorrisauto.com .H,- $epot )oad, 9ayward, F& 3M=M= =2--H7,-M.3, phone, =2--H.,-8-M2 ax ?reather hoses and gaskets> *ohn at %reds 6arage M28 $ #treet, )edwood Fity, F& 3M-8. 8=--.87-=.M. ?reather and radiator thermostats> 0V/ dealer1 ?oardwalk &uto Fenter 0www.bwalkauto.com1 Cne ?air Island )oad, )edwood Fity, F& 3M-8. 8=--.8M--2-- phone, 8=--.8H-2.3- ax Axhaust system installation> @i e-"ime Mu ler #ervice 0www.li etimemu ler2.!pg.com1 2M2M Al Famino )eal, )edwood Fity, F& 3M-8. 8=--.83-8,-M phone, 8=--,82-8-2, ax

M. Axpenses that I kept track o > 0some small things were probably le t out1 $escription Angine %light to pick up engine Minivan rental rom +ahrump, GV to #an Mateo, F& /ater pump, serpentine belt kit, alternator, alt. bracket Metric .N75 drive socket set 02--pc.1, wrench set 022-pc.1, ratchet, .N75 drive extension bar set 0.-pc.1 "or!ue wrench, 2N,T drive adapter .-ton loor jack, jack stands 0, sets1, drain containers Internal pipe wrench set 0tranny drain plug tool1 6ood used 4$P5 transmission rom air-cooled Vanagon #wap tranny bell housing ( input sha t, new seals @ong 23mm #ocket, oil ilter wrench )edline M"-3- transmission gear oil 0= !uarts1 9ex bit 0&llen1 socket set Angine hoist rental 6asket or exhaust lange, coolant itting gaskets ?lue @octite ,M,, transmission unnel, nuts ( bolts &ir ilter box rom V8 $odge Faravan "oyota oil pan gasket sealant Valve cover breather, radiator thermostats #&A 9$.-/ motor oil 08 !uarts1, grease or rear FV joints, Faravan air ilter, unnel or air intake +restone $excool coolant 0, gal1, hose clamp 9acksaw, bottles or coolant premix, bolts ( washers $remel kit, cuto wheel set )adiator hoses or air breather, engine block itting )adiator hose, itting, connectors, lush n ill kit +restone $excool coolant 02 gal1, hose clamps Far rental to get replacement transmission at ?/ #wap tranny bell housing ( input sha t again, new seals More )edline M"-3- transmission gear oil 0= !uarts1 6lasspack exhaust system install )adiator hose or air intake +VF coupling or air intake Vendor '(# Imports #outhwest &irlines $ollar )ent-a-car '(# Imports /al-Mart GovakKs &uto +arts P-Mart 9ome $epot ?/ &uto $ismantlers )onKs "ransaxles Pragen &uto +arts 6otelli &uto #upply #ears #an Mateo )entals '(# Imports Crchard #upply 9rdwr $orris &uto /reckers "oyota dealer ?oardwalk V/ dealer +ep ?oys &utoOone Crchard #upply 9rdwr Crchard #upply 9rdwr %reds 6arage Pragen &uto +arts Pragen &uto +arts Anterprise )ent-a-car )onKs "ransaxles 6otelli &uto #upply @i e-"ime Mu ler &utoOone Crchard #upply 9rdwr Fost ;.,33=.-2...-,2H.37 M.=.-83.HM ,H.3= 2-..H8 2,.38 M,3.-.3.,2M.=3 MH.3.-..,3.-,=.-22.HH M...28..2-..28 23.-M ,2.,3 ,2.-3 73.7. 2-.7,3.,H 2H.,3 .,.M7 7-.-MH.3.--.-H.M8 2.-H

Total cost: $6,462.43 &mount o total spent on tools> ;.=2.3-