Jordan Part 4

by Mushtaq Shaikh Prophet Nuh / Noah (As) Karak Al-Mazar Al-Janubi and Mutah Madyan / Madian

From the Dead Sea we travelled south towards the city of Karak. For quite a distance, this highway was running parallel with the sea. Across the sea, the mountains of Palestine were clearly visible on this bright sunny day. After sometime, our driver stopped in one of the villages for our morning tea. We refreshed ourselves with a nice hot cup of tea in a typical Jordanian village and then continued our journey.

Now the route was leading us away from the Dead Sea and winding up the mountain road (Fig.2). Driving through these tortuous mountain roads is no easy task. Sitting in the passenger seat and staring down the rocky mountain will send a bone rattling chill down anyones spine. The mountains near the Dead Sea are entirely barren (Fig.1, 2). However, once we drove past these mountains and travelled further away from the Dead Sea, we were amazed by the sight of plentiful orchards. Groves of banana, olive and fig trees were beautifying the countryside and without a doubt, the olive trees were dominating the landscape. A blanket of greenery striped with olive trees was covering the rolling hills and the mountain slopes. The scene of this fertile land was a complete contrast to the bare rocky lands surrounding the Dead Sea. The local farmers transformed the hillside and slopes into lush gardens full of fruit trees. After driving through the countryside, we finally arrived at Karak. Prophet Nuh / Noah (Alaihi al-Salaam) Just outside the city walls, on a slope near the Crusader castle, is a graveyard. The locals consider it a blessing to bury their deceased in this cemetery because the tomb in the centre (Fig.3) is thought to be of Prophet Nuh / Noah (As) (Jordan History & Culture, 2006, p.20). Some people actually tried to tunnel their way to the grave but without success. Their futile efforts are clearly visible.

Figure 1: Barren land around the Dead Sea, by MS

Figure 2: Looking towards the Dead Sea, by MS

Figure 3: Cemetery outside of Karak, by MS

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Apart from the aforesaid opinion, six other opinions pertaining to the burial site of Prophet Nuh / Noah (As) have been reported by Badruddin al-Aayni (Al-'Aayni d.1451CE, 'Umdah al-Qari, 1998, p. 11:21). Town of Thamanin1 located near Mount Judi2 and Mosul in northern Iraq. In Al-Hind as reported by Ibn Ishaq. Makkah, this opinion is also supported by Sami Al-Maghluth (Al-Maghluth S., 2005, p. 50). Al-Masjid al-Haram, Ibn Kathir has also written this opinion. (Ibn Kathir, 1997, 1:119) In his voluminous history book, he also writes that this opinion is more authentic and reliable than what the people of recent times have thought that he is buried in a place known as Karak Nuh (Ibn Kathir, 1997, 1:119). 5. Babil / Babylon 6. A village in Balabakk / Baalbek, Lebanon, the place is known as Karak Nuh. Under the the listing of Karak, Al-Hamawi has written that the long grave situated in this town near Balabakk / Baalbek is considered to be that of Prophet Nuh / Noah (As) (Al-Hamawi, 1977, p. 4:453). 1. 2. 3. 4. Many Quranic exegetes and historians regard Iraq as the place where Prophet Nuh / Noah (As) preached his message (Shawqi, 2003, p. 29) (Al-Maghluth S., 2005, p. 79) (Yahya, 1999, p. 23) (Uthmani M. S., 2001, p. 4:636) (Seyuharwi, n.d., p.85). Did Prophet Nuh / Noah (As) ever travel to present-day Jordan or Lebanon? This requires further research. The report of him buried in Al-Hind seems far-fetched. Karak Karak is around 120km south of Amman with a population of approximately 170,000. A significant portion of the population is Christian who trace their lineage to the Christian Arab tribes that lived in the region during the Byzantine era, e.g. Ghassan, Lakhm, and Judham. It sits 900m above sea level. Karak is an old fortified city. Its main attraction is the Crusader castle, one of the best surviving castles from the Crusader period (Fig.4). It was constructed by the Crusaders and took some 20 years to complete. It was deliberately built at a very strategic location; high on a hilltop that gave it a commanding view of the surrounding area and on a well travelled route, frequented by Muslim caravans, pilgrims and traders, who journeyed between Hijaz and Al-Shaam (Greater Syria). In the early 1170s, the castle came under the rule of Renauld de Chatillon. This castle was the focus of many battles between the Crusaders and Salah Al-Dins army. During the siege of October 1183, a wedding was taking place in the castle. A stepson of Renauld de Chatillon was getting married to a royal princess. During the ceremony Lady Stephanie, mother of the bridegroom, sent dishes from the feast to Salah Al-Din and reminded him of the times when he was a prisoner in the castle and used to hold her as a child in his arms. After inquiring in which part of the castle the ceremony was being held, he ordered his men to direct the bombardment away from that area. In the meantime, Renauld had signaled for help from Jerusalem and the siege was lifted by Salah Al-Din just before the relief army had arrived. In Figure 4: Karak Crusader Castle, by MS the year 1188, after an eight month siege, the castle finally surrendered to Salah Al-Din.
1 2

See Muajam al-Buldan by Al-Hamawi 2:84 According to Al-Hamawi, Mount Judi is located east of the Tigris River within the district of Mosul. (Al-Hamawi d.1229CE, 1977, p. 2:179)

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On our previous trip to Jordan with my wife and paternal aunt and uncle, we explored the castle from the inside. At the northern side, a wooden bridge over the moat leads to the main entrance. The other three sides are surrounded by valleys, a natural defense from the invading armies. Built within it are huge halls, vaulted corridors, hidden passageways and multiple galleries and rooms. The castle was constructed with complete amenities such as: stables, barracks, kitchen, reservoir, dungeon, church, bakery, accommodation and even weddings would take place within the castle. The maze of endless limestone corridors will zigzag you through this massive architectural splendor. Some areas were poorly lit, yet the semidarkness coupled with the historic atmosphere, enhanced our exploration of this huge complex. Arrow-slits in some of the walls suggested that these were once the outer walls. When looking through these arrow-slits, one could only imagine what the soldiers would see when under siege. From the top of the castle you will be amazed by the awe-inspiring scenery of the surrounding land. Due to its height and prime location, it was possible to communicate with Jerusalem through fire signals thus signaling for help whenever required was plausible. A Masjid was also built inside, obviously after the Muslim army gained control of it. Its mihrab (prayer niche) was clearly pointing towards Makkah. At the time of our visit, excavation work was still ongoing in some areas of the castle. Visitors could also tour the museum that is located in the courtyard of the castle. After Karak, we proceeded to Al-Mazar al-Janubi and Mutah. Al-Mazar al-Janubi & Mutah Al-Mazar Al-Janubi and Mutah is home to the most revered and visited Islamic historical sites in all of Jordan. It was here in the year 8AH/629CE, three years before the demise of the Prophet (S), the first battle between his companions and the Byzantine army took place (Al-Maghluth, 2005, p. 195) (Shawqi, 2003, pp. 210-212) (Kamal, 2010, p. 176) (Uthmani M. R., 2007, pp. 38-47) (Uthmani M. T., 1994, pp. 225-241) (Al-Maqdisi, 1991, p. 178). This war became known as The Battle of Mutah. Three of his very close companions were martyred in this war, including his cousin, Jafar ibn Abi Talib (Rd). (For details of this campaign, please refer to any seerah book).
Figure 5: Masjid Ja'far & Zaid, by MS

The graves of these three eminent companions of the Prophet (S) are situated in the town of Al-Mazar AlJanubi, approximately 12km south of Karak and 130 140km south of Amman. The battlefield is outside of this town in Mutah, just opposite of Mutah University. First we proceeded to Al-Mazar Al-Janubi to pay our respects to these great Sahaabah. Upon reaching the Masjid (Fig.5), which is home to the resting place of Zaid ibn Harithah (Rd) and Jafar ibn Abi Talib (Rd), we heard the adhaan. It was time for Zuhr salaat.

Figure 6:Masjid Ja'far & Zaid, looking south, by MS

Figure 7:Masjid Ja'far & Zaid, looking west, by MS

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Zaid took the flag and was martyred. Then it was taken by Jafar and he was martyred. Then ibn Rawahah took the flag and he was martyred. At that time his (Prophet s.) eyes were overflowing with tears. Then the flag was taken by a sword from the swords of Allah (Khalid ibn Walid) and Allah made them victorious. (Al-Bukhari, The Book of Al-Maghazi #4262).

The Masjid is absolutely magnificent, fully constructed of limestone. The open courtyard (Fig.6, 7) in the centre consisted of trees, flowers and water fountains; reminding me of the palaces in Al-Undulus / Islamic Spain as described by historians. The Masjid was complete with facilities for visitors and the locals were very kind and courteous.
Nafi narrates, Ibn Umar informed me that on the day (of the battle of Mutah) he stood by Jafar who was killed. He counted fifty wounds in his body, caused by stabs or strokes, and none of those wounds were on his back. (Al-Bukhari, The Book of Al-Maghazi #4260).

We performed Zuhr salaat in this Masjid and visited the two separate rooms that house the tombs of these two illustrious Sahaabah. A group from India consisting of men, women and children was also here for ziyaarah. Their group leader was narrating to them the story of Mutah. First we visited the room where the tomb (Fig.8) of Jafar ibn Abi Talib (Rd) is located.

Figure 8: Tomb of Ja'far ibn Abi Talib (Rd), by MS

Figure 9: Tomb of Zaid ibn Harithah (Rd), by MS

Figure 10: Tomb of Abdullah ibn Rawahah (Rd), by MS

We then proceeded to the part of the Masjid where the tomb of Zaid ibn Haritha (Rd) is situated (Fig.9). After paying our respects at these two sites, we went to a nearby Masjid (Fig.11) that houses the tomb of Abdullah ibn Rawahah (Rd) (Fig.10). From here we proceeded to Mutah. The battlefield is in Mutah, just opposite the Mutah University, a couple of kilometers north of Al-Mazar AlJanubi. We parked our car by the curb and walked towards the battlefield. Over the years, I have read the story of the Battle of Mutah multiple times and now we were standing here just where it occurred. Uncontrollably, my imagination began to play the scene as described by the historians and biographers. An army of 3000 Sahaabah had Figure 11: Masjid Abdullah ibn Rawahah (Rd), by MS trekked across the merciless desert under the scorching Page 4 of 10

sun. Upon reaching this site where we now stand, they were met by the joint forces of the Byzantine army and the local tribes, comprising of 200,000 soldiers fully armed in complete combat gear. The three Muslim commanders fought with unmatched bravery and heroism until they were martyred, one after the other, just as the Prophet (S) had prophesized. Finally Khalid ibn Walid (Rd) took charge and returned to Madinah. Today, a Masjid stands on this battlefield. The remains of a much older Masjid are clearly visible. A memorial has also been built on site (Fig. 12). Over the years, I have heard from different sources that there was a time in the past when the sounds of active war were heard at night before the break of dawn. Mufti M. Rafi Uthmani has also written about this in his travel log (Uthmani M. R., 2007, p. 47). I inquired about this from our guide. His reply was that

Figure 12: Looking towards the Mu'tah Battlefield, left is the remains of a Masjid and on the right is the memorial, by MS

he has also heard the same story and in the village he has met an elderly woman who claimed that her mother used to hear the sound in the latter part of the night. I asked our guide if I can personally speak to an old aged person from the village and inquire about this miracle. We met an elderly person whose name was Abu Jafar Bayadhi. After exchanging salaam, our guide introduced me to him. Then I asked him some questions regarding the predawn sounds of war. Below is a transcript3 of our conversation. Myself: What is your name? Elderly person: Abu Jafar Bayadhi.
Abu Hazim narrates, I heard Khalid ibn Walid say, On the day of Mutah nine swords were broken in my hand and nothing was left in my hand except a Yemenite sword. (Al-Bukhari, The Book of AlMaghazi #4265).

Myself: Can you tell us anything about the sounds of war that people have claimed to hear in the past? Abu Jafar Bayadhi: Yes, yes. Ive heard from the elders that at the time of sahar (dawn or a little before) they would hear the sound coming from the battlefield. Myself: What type of sound?
3

English trans. from Arabic.

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Abu Jafar Bayadhi: Sounds of horses and swords. At this time dust or fog would hover over the battlefield. You see 40 years ago there were no buildings or houses in this area. Myself: How old are you? Abu Jafar Bayadhi: 67 May Allah shower His blessings on these pure souls, for they gave the ultimate sacrifice for the pleasure of Allah. It was truly an honour for a sinful person to visit their resting places and see the battlefield of Mutah. After visiting the site of the Battle of Mutah, we proceeded to our next and final destination for the day, Madyan. Madyan / Madian Prophet Shuaib (As) was sent to the people of Madyan / Madian to convey the message of Allah (The Holy Quran, 7:85; 11:84; 20:40; 28:22, 23). This is also the town where Prophet Musa (As) got married (The Holy Quran, 28:20-28). Historians differ as to the precise location of this town. Khalid El-Awaisi writes that there are two areas with the name Madian, one on the Red Sea and the other just south of the Dead Sea (ElAwaisi, 2007, p. 54).
Figure 13: Road leading to the well, by MS

Ibn Kathir writes that Madyan is a village in the land of Maan within the region of Al-Shaam (Greater Syria) near Al-Hijaz and close to the Dead Sea (ibn Kathir, 1997, p. 1:171).

Figure 14: Inside the cave, by MS

Figure 15: The cave, by MS

A few kilometers north of Al-Mazar Al-Janubi is a village named Maddin. This is thought to be the town of Madyan which is mentioned in the Quran in Surah Al-Qasas verse 22 29. Mufti M. Rafi Uthmani is inclined towards this opinion (Uthmani M. R., 2007, p. 47). The Waters of Madyan where Prophet Musa (As) rested, is also thought to be here. The well is in a valley surrounded by hills (Fig.13) on all sides. Olive trees are plentiful in this area (Fig.16). The well has been sealed, but nearby inside a cave (Fig.14, 15) spring water

Figure 16: Olive groves, by MS

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flows. The locals believe that this is the same underground water that feeds the well. Al-Hamdulillah we drank from this cool mountain spring water and took some back to our hotel. Mufti Rafi Uthmani has also written about this village and the spring water (Uthmani M. R., 2007, p. 61). Another opinion is that of Kafar Mandah. It is approximately 180km north of Al-Quds. The majority of residents of this town are Arab Muslims. The people of this town also claim that this is the Madyan, mentioned in the verses of Surah Al-Qasas verse 22 29. The well here has been sealed and is currently used as a roundabout. Al-Hamawi, under the listing of Kafar Mandah in his geographical dictionary, writes, Kafar Mandah: Is a village in Urdun (Jordan) between Akka (Acre) and Tabariyyah (Tiberias). It is considered to be the Madyan mentioned in the Quran. The famous opinion is that Madyan is east of the Sinai. The grave of Safura, the wife of prophet Musa (As), is in Kafr Manda. The well from which prophet Musa (As) removed the rock and provided the two of them with water, is also in the town. (Al-Hamawi, 1977, 4:471) According to the Quran (20:10; 28:27-35) Prophet Musa (As) travelled with his wife to the Sinai Peninsula where Allah conversed with him. Hence, the opinion of Safura being buried in Kafar Mandah is disputable. When we visited Kafar Mandah, the local people told us that Safuras sister, the other daughter of Prophet Shuaib (As), is buried in this town. They also took us to the cemetery and pointed her grave out to us. Al-Maqdisi has included Madyan in the chapter of Al-Shaam (Greater Syria), yet he argues that it is within the boundaries of Al-Hijaz but their measures and customs are Syrian. This would indicate that the town of Madyan is located somewhere near the borders of Al-Shaam (Greater Syria) 4 and Al-Hijaz, hence the confusion of its precise location. This area is located east of the Sinai Peninsula (Al-Maqdisi, 1991, pp. 178, 179). Abdul-Wahhab Al-Najjar also holds the same view (Al-Najjar, n.d., pp. 145, 165). Sami Al-Maghluth and Dr. Abu Khalil Shawqi state that Madyan / Madian is located on the eastern shores of the Gulf of Aqabah in Saudi Arabia and Al-Aikah 5 is modern day Tabuk (Shawqi, 2003, pp. 89, 94, 95) (Al-Maghluth S., 2005, pp. 39, 141). This is located east of the Sinai Peninsula which corresponds to Al-Maqdisis opinion as written above and the famous opinion stated by Al-Hamawi. Al-Hamawi also writes that Al-Aikah is modern day Tabuk (Al-Hamawi, 1977, pp. 1:291) and Madyan / Madian is located near Tabuk (Al-Hamawi, 1977, pp. 5:77, 78). He has quoted other scholars who hold the same view. AlMaghluth suggests that Madyan / Madian is a vast area in the north-west part of Saudi Arabia stretching from Tabuk in the east towards the Gulf of Aqaba in the west and includes many towns and villages including Tabuk and Al-Bad (Al-Maghluth S., 2005, pp. 136, 141, 149-151). Al-Maghluth has included maps and pictures of this area in his research. Al-Aayni states that Madyan / Madian is on the shores of the Red Sea west of Tabuk (Al-'Aayni d.1451CE, 1998, p. 11:149). Sayyid Sulaiman Al-Nadwi slightly differs from Al-Maghluth. In his book on Quranic geography he states that Madyan is a vast area situated along the coast of the Red Sea, stretching from the mouth of the Gulf of Aqabah in the north, down south towards the land of Thamud (Sulaiman Al-Nadwi, p. 2:314). The author has included a map of the area in his book (Sulaiman Al-Nadwi, p. 1:129). Seyuharwi holds a very similar opinion to that of Sulaiman Al-Nadwi. He states that Madyan is in the north-west area of the Arabian Peninsula along the eastern coast of the Red Sea near the border of Al-Shaam (Greater Syria) (Seyuharwi, p. 1:344).
4

For a comprehensive discussion on the borders of Al-Shaam (Greater Syria) please refer to Mapping Islamicjerusalem, A Rediscovery of Geographical Boundaries pg.26 32, (2007) by Khalid El-Awaisi, Al-Maktoum Institute Academic Press, Dundee, Scotland, UK 5 In the Quran the word Al-Aikah (densely forested area) has been used to describe the town or one of the towns of Madyan (26:176)

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Many of the latter opinions generally speak of the same area, stretching from the Gulf of Aqabah and Red Sea in the east to Tabuk in the west. In the north, beginning at the borders of Al-Shaam (Greater Syria) and going down south towards the land of Thamud. Returning to Amman It was now mid-afternoon and our program for this day was complete so we decided to return to Amman. Our drive to Amman would take approximately one and a half to two hours. We wanted to reach Amman before sunset so we could spend the evening strolling and shopping in the old city area of downtown Amman. We also intended to dine out in one of the fine restaurants that offer typical Jordanian cuisine. This time our guide took us along the Desert Highway north towards Amman. The Hijaz Railway runs parallel to it. The main rail line linked Damascus to Medina, passing through Jordan. This highway is not as scenic compared to the Kings Highway or Dead Sea Highway. All around us there was nothing but desert as far as the eye can see. You look straight ahead and you will see the concrete road meandering away and disappearing into the desert. In Canada we are accustomed to signs warning drivers of deer or moose, but here drivers were being warned of wild camels. Shepherds with their herd of goats and flocks of sheep were seen along the highway. Many of these shepherds have to walk 25 30km for water. Learning from our previous trip to Jordan, we were well prepared this time with snacks and water. This is also the main artery for people driving to Saudi Arabia. While travelling north towards Amman, we saw many coaches filled with pilgrims travelling down south on their way to Makkah for Hajj. Some were dressed in their Ihram. Our guide informed us that before and after Hajj this highway is very busy. Coaches and buses from Turkey, Lebanon, Syria and Jordan travel along this highway to and from Makkah. While travelling we also passed by an Ottoman castle. We reached our hotel between Asr and Maghrib. Our hotel was in an area known as Jabal Al-Hussein, in the Abdali district of Greater Amman. It is a well-known area in Amman famous for its wide range of hotels. The splendid King Abdullah Masjid is also within walking distance. Many tourists tend to stay in this area because it is away from the hustle and bustle of downtown, yet only a short 5-10min taxi drive to the old city centre. Currently6, the area of Abdali is undergoing a major development project. After praying Asr and Maghrib in the hotel, we left by taxi for downtown Amman or Old Amman. Husseini Masjid is the heart of Old Amman, surrounded by traditional souqs (markets) and restaurants. This was the peak of the shopping season, only a couple of weeks left till Eid al-Adha. We, foreign tourists, were easily recognizable. Most people here speak some English and they are very helpful and friendly towards tourist. Panhandlers are not in abundance as the South Asian countries but we did come across a few. While shopping here one must bargain for a discount. In some cases the local merchants increased the price 5 7 times than the regular cost. I strongly advise travelers to Amman that when you shop be sure to take a local resident with you or rehearse your bargaining skills, you will save a lot of money. In restaurants the prices are fixed but tips are greatly appreciated. After some shopping and dining we returned to our hotel. It was time to prepare for the following day. Our itinerary for the next day was to leave around 8:00AM and visit the site of Abdul-Rahman ibn Awf (Rd), Prophet Yusha (As), Prophet Shuaib (As) and then off to King Hussein / Allenby Bridge for entry into Bait al-Maqdis. To be continued
6

Nov. /2010

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Uthmani, M. R. (2007). Anbiyaa ki Sar Zamin Min (in Urdu) In the Land of the Prophets. Karachi, Pakistan: Idaratul Maarif. Uthmani, M. S. (2001). Ma'ariful Qur'an (in Urdu) (1st ed., Vol. 5). (M. T. Usmani, M. Shamim, Eds., & M. Shamim, Trans.) Karachi, Pakistan: Maktaba-e-Darul-Uloom. Uthmani, M. T. (1994). Jahaan Didah (in Urdu). Karachi, Pakistan: Idaratul Maarif. Yahya, H. (1999). Perished Nations (1st ed.). (A. Clarke, Ed., & M. Ahmad, Trans.) London, England: Ta-Ha Publishers Ltd.

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