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OCTOBE R 2 013
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COUTURE 8 6 6 . 6 4 5 . 7 0 3 2 e x t . 31 0 s a l e s @ m o n d o m a n n e q u i n s . c o m m o n d o m a n n e q u i n s . c o m
OCTOB ER 2013
Vol. 144, No. 10
36
COLUMNS
4 6 8
16 DESIGN DETAIL
Handsome Cycle engages millennials with custom products and localized design Flooring P-o-p
F E AT U R E S
18
Restaurants from Australia to Shanghai meld European vibes with Chinese palettes.
24
ASIAN INSPIRATION
Holt Renfrews hr2 carries its predecessors aura, but showcases a look of its own.
30
SISTER STYLE
Designer-branded accessories populate everything from smartphone cases to small leather goods.
36
Far from a spinoff, Mannheim, Germanys englehorn sports presents an unequalled bicycle enthusiasts haven.
42
LIFE CYCLE
Designers for Tim Hortons hit the books for a communityminded eatery with historical railroad references and motifs.
On the cover Inspired by Imperial China, Yong Yi Ting welcomes diners in
Albertas charming Freson Bros. brings family-friendly eclecticism to the dinner table
CHOPSTICK NIRVANA
Shanghais nancial district. Creamy white tones in this central dining area keep the below-ground restaurant bright and open.
PHOTOGRAPHY: XU FEI, SHANGHAI
introducing
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On a soft and sultry late summer evening, I joined a couple dozen professionals at the Retail Design Institutes (Cincinnati Chapter) annual riverboat dinner cruise and networking event. It was my introduction to the group and I was eager to meet and connect with the guests. Between pre-dinner nibbles and the Queen Citys beloved Graeters ice cream finale, I engaged several of the architects and designers in an informal assessment of the state of the industry. Basically, I hit them with, Hey, hows business? Since the economy started tanking in 08, Ive winced while broaching the subject with other design professionals, watching their expressions deflate like dayold birthday balloons as they recounted postponed projects, canceled contracts, mass layoffs and sinking morale. But this time was different. One after another lit up at the query, reporting significant upticks in projects and billings. One firm director said he was challenged to find qualified hires to handle increasing workloads. Another architect seemed almost incredulous at his companys recent good fortune, recounting a nightmarish recent past of out-of-work colleagues reduced to accepting minimum-wage jobs during the depths of the Great Recession. These informal testimonies of an improving retail landscape are confirmed by official reports, at least domestically. (Europe is another story; it continues to struggle.) As of early September, U.S. retail sales have steadily climbed this year, with four consecutive months of increases, according to the U.S. Department of Commerce. The housing recovery and a gradually improving jobs picture, together with a bullish stock market, have resulted in a spending increase on groceries, furniture, building materials, electronics and restaurant meals. The recovery is by no means robust. Low-income households still struggle, and skittish consumers are allocating more discretionary income to rebuilding depleted savings and retirement accounts than shopping. Yet pent-up consumer demand for a bit of fun and frivolity is evident in sectors like accessories, which is thriving, according to editorat-large Steve Kaufmans report on page 30. So today we happily meander along the retail river, relieved to have navigated some treacherous rapids, tempered by a survivors heightened awareness of likely obstacles downstream. Hey, hows business? Drop me a line and weigh in for our year-end industry wrap-up.
Managing Editor Robin Donovan robin.donovan@stmediagroup.com Art Director Linda Watts linda.watts@stmediagroup.com Assistant Editor Carly Hagedon carly.hagedon@stmediagroup.com Editor-at-Large Steve Kaufman steve.kaufman@stmediagroup.com New York Editor Eric Feigenbaum European Editor John Ryan, London
BRAND & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Senior VP/Group Publisher U.S. / Canada Murray Kasmenn
murray.kasmenn@stmediagroup.com P: 770.578.2577
Patricia Iannelli
Audience Development Director Christine Baloga Production Coordinator Mark Kissling Book Division Director Mark Kissling Reprint Information 800-925-1110, ext. 399
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EAB
R E TAI L E R S
HELENE ALLAND Store Design Manager The TJX Companies Inc. TOM BEEBE VP, Creative Services HMX Group BEVAN BLOEMENDAAL Senior Director, Global Creative Services Timberland RICK BURBEE Divisional VP Home Design/ Trend Sears Holdings Corp. DAVID CURTIS Director, Global Store Planning & Design Crocs Inc. DAWN CLARK VP, Store Design Nordstrom Inc. TIM COX Director, Creative Services Publix Super Markets MATT DAVISON Director, Store Design and Planning Kohls Department Stores STEVEN DERWOED VP, Store Design and Merchandising Macys Inc. LINDA FARGO Senior VP, Fashion Director and Store Presentation Bergdorf Goodman
TRACEY FINGER Senior Manager Retail Creative Apple JASON FLOYD Group Manager, WW Visual Merchandising Microsoft AMY GARRIGAN VP, Marketing and Brand Family Christian Stores BETH HARLOR Associate Director CBDi Design Procter & Gamble JACK HRUSKA Executive VP, Creative Services Bloomingdales VICTOR JOHNSON Director, Store Environment White House | Black Market JEFFREY KEY Store Environment Manager Store Planning Lowes Companies Inc. HAK KIM Director of Store Design The Children's Place KATHLEEN KINCER Retail Interiors Manager McDonalds USA JAY KRATZ Architect, Senior Design Manager Store Design Luxottica Retail DAVID MEYER Design Lead Target
DAVID MILNE Director of Design, North America The Wendys Co. MARTIN PEREZ Store Planning Director Liverpool Department Stores TRACEY PETERS Sr. Manager, National Visual Holt Renfrew STEPHANIE PICONE VP, Marketing/Visual IZOD Retail KEN PRAY Director, Store Design The Kroger Co. GABRIELLE ROSI Senior Design Coordinator Whole Foods Market KEVIN RUEHLE Store Layout, Senior Director, Prototype Design & Evolution Walmart BILL SLEETH VP Design, Americas Starbucks Coffee Co. LEE SVET Manager, Global Retail Design Global Hershey Experience TODD TAYLOR Director of Design Darden Restaurants Inc. JAN TRIBBEY VP, Store Design & Construction Victorias Secret Stores Limited Brands
SHARON LESSARD Owner share llc PAOLA MARQUES Partner GH+A DANIEL MONTAO Studio Principal, Brand Experience Little ROBYN NOVAK Creative Managing Director FRCH Design Worldwide KEVIN ODONNELL Founder Thread Collaborative LEE PETERSON Executive VP, Creative Services WD Partners RANDY SAUER Principal MulvannyG2 Architecture BRIAN SHAFLEY President Chute Gerdeman DAN STANEK Executive VP Big Red Rooster RANDALL STONE Senior Partner Lippincott TOM KOWALSKI VP, Design Interbrand Design Forum RACHEL ZSEMBERY Senior Associate Bergmeyer Associates Inc.
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THE GOODS
Edited by Patricia Sheehan
tell stories with merchandising around a story and then hosting events to bring them to life.And while the themed environment always changes, much like a gallery, Story sells product like any store. The difference is there is always a new Story, and the walls in the store are like pages of a magazine. Upon entering, customers are drawn to a wall projection that serves as the magazine cover, announcing the theme of the month. Shechtman created a new and profitable business model based on constant change. She says, In addition to the merchandise we sell, and events we host, we have other partners who pay to be part of our story.Technically, you could call them sponsors but really they become part of the content and we consider them contributing storytellers or curators. In the past year, Story has featured eight different themes ranging from Color Story to New York Story
and Wellness Story. The current theme, Made in the USA, takes visitors on a road trip across the country. Stops along the way include Boston, Brooklyn, Detroit and Seattle, featuring product and imagery from each location. When a theme ends, the store closes for a week as it morphs into the next issue. The entire environment undergoes a complete transformation encompassing fixturing, signage, wall presentations and product. For each Story, Shechtman brings in dif-
ferent interior designers and architects.Some of the collaborating creative partners include: Snarkitecture, Rock Paper Robot, Clay Shortall & Associates, Tietz and Baccon, Jason Bell and Associates, Architizer, and HWKN. Recognizing that consumers constantly get new content on their smartphones, Shechtman asked, Why shouldnt retail have fresh content in real life? If we have community online, why not create new vehicles for community offline? In Story, where brands pay to be part of the experience or community, the overriding equation isnt necessarily sales per square foot, but rather, experience per customer visit. Eric Feigenbaum
vmsd.com | OCTOBER 2013
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THE GOODS
Immersion on Demand
The marriage of retail design and technology is advancing at a breathtaking pace, with creative and exciting brand-building applications. Case in point: Life-size video walls recently installed in five of Guccis (Casellina, Italy) stores (Milan's Via Montenapoleone, Saint-Tropez, Hong Kong, Macys New York and Dubai Mall). As part of a program to enhance the customer experience at retail and heighten the iconic brands visibility worldwide, the displays by Planar Systems Inc. (Beaverton, Ore.) together with OOOiis (Los Angeles) graphics engine create life-size interactive images. We have called it the Gucci Immersive Retail Experience, says Robert Triefus, Guccis chief marketing officer. The displays reproduce Gucci womens and mens fashion shows and other product films. In some stores, the interactivity of the Gucci experience extends to displays on the staircases leading from the ground floors to the first floors, where a system known as Stairway Interactive Videowalls reacts in real time as customers pass by, immersing them in a complete, interactive experience. Customers are able to interact with the images using simple gestures to fast-forward and rewind or freeze the images to take a closer look or see more detail. In this way they can literally interact with the products, Triefus says. PS
EARTHY DELIGHTS
Veggietopia (New York) debuted in May as a 400-square-foot vegetarian sandwich shop designed by John Beckmann of Axis Mundi (New York). The design evokes a garden setting with its lacquered green ceiling, ipe wood fencing and concrete flooring.
MI KI KO KI KU YA M A , NE W YORK
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THE GOODS
tional, but not reverential, featuring exposed brick and concrete. A top floor features champagne and white wine, with a focal chandelier made of upended wine glasses leading to red wine displays in the vaultlike lower level. Robin Donovan
JAM E S NE WTON , LO ND ON
AF R I C A ST U D I O , S H U T T ER STO C K . CO M
FAST FACT
$6
BILLION
PROJECTED FINAL SALE PRICE OF THE NEIMAN MARCUS GROUP (DALLAS) TO A GROUP LED BY ARES MANAGEMENT LLC (LOS ANGELES) AND THE CANADIAN PENSION PLAN INVESTMENT BOARD.
Source: The New York Times
TG
THE GOODS
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CO U R T ES Y O F MES S E D SS E LD OR F, G E R M A NY
BOOKED SOLID
Heres a novel approach to space definition. This Westlake, Ohio, Anthropologie store cleverly features stacked books of varying sizes and colors to create a demarcation between its home goods and fashion accessories areas.
FAST FACT
8.211.7
PERCENT
PROJECTED RETAIL CONSTRUCTION GROWTH IN 2013 AND 2014 BY THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF ARCHITECTS (AIA).
Source: AIA Consensus Construction Forecast, July 31, 2013
DD
D E S I G N D E TA I L
By Robin Donovan, Managing Editor
Handsome Cycle
Minneapolis
Concept: Once online-only, a Warehouse District shop outfits lifestyle bikers with part-by-part customization and gear to match.
TOUGH IT OUT Ride like youre from Minneapolis dares digitally printed felt signage in this galley-shaped bike boutique in Minneapolis North Loop Warehouse District. The playful message alludes to hardcore Minnesotans who bike in sun, storms and snow. OVERHEAD VIEWS Painting the ceiling black lends a moody feel to the space, while LED track lights stud the ceiling to highlight displays, and an oversized metal halide adds ambient lighting. MADE TO ORDER Once used to display guitars for a previous retail tenant, these functional metal tracks display bike frame sets near a consultation desk where shoppers specify custom options and watch the nal stages of bike assembly. LOCAL FLAIR Shop decor features repurposed materials, such as corrugated metal, barn wood, and a fence and benches from a nearby school, which appeal to ber-individual millennial shoppers. PART BY PART Customizable accessories, including fenders, baskets and rear storage racks, are a nod to millennial shoppers with their own style, people who bike every day as part of their lifestyle, says Todd Paulson, Knocks (Minneapolis) chief creative ofcer.
PROJECT SUPPLIERS
RETAILER AND DESIGN FIXTURES
Knock, Minneapolis
AUDIO/VISUAL/ANIMATION
Blake Loya, Minneapolis Adam Beck, Minneapolis Rush River Scenic, Baldwin, Wis.
Neighbor, Minneapolis
17
Asian Inspiration
Chinese restaurants blend traditional reds and golds with modern, European flair.
By Robin Donovan, Managing Editor
Above Patterning inspired by
COU RT E SY OF POI N TOF VI E W LI G HT I NG , M EL BOU RNE , AUST RAL IA
traditional graphics in Man Tong Kitchen complements a toffee-apple red bricked bar in the restaurant's casual dining area.
The Asian restaurant market is quickly recognizing that the environment that their food is being served in needs to match the quality of their offerings, and that the bright lights and laminated tables mentality doesnt suffice anymore, says Lisa Chan, associate director of the Melbourne-based B.Y.Architects in Australia. This has resulted in a demand for restaurant designs that are more sophisticated, but still playful and original. And todays Asian joints dont simply target the nave consumer expecting wontons and fried egg rolls amidst trite scrims and glass tabletops. High-
and mid-range locales alike blend hints of home for Asian diners with fresh, western touches that lend a cosmopolitan air. That often means generous use of reds, golds and wood with the slimmed-down aesthetic populating so many western restaurants. Lighting is warm and bright and private dining rooms, particularly in luxury venues, are a must. Melbourne-based Man Tong Kitchen, designed by B.Y.Architects, illustrates these trends while targeting a mixed clientele in Australia. Part of the Crown Entertainment Complex, it competes for eyeballs and palates with a range of other dining
options at varying price points along the Yarra River. Traditionally, red symbolizes luck and gold or yellow signifies wealth and fortune, so the color palette selected was intentionally very rich and evocative of Chinese symbolism, says Chan. However, the palette also needed to appeal to a western clientele, so the rich colors were paired with the more muted base tones of charcoal flooring, walnut timbers, concrete rendered walls and brown and grey brickwork. Designers evoked China with textured grey floor tiles similar to cobblestone village streets, splashes
of red reminiscent of cultural celebrations, laser cutout screens with Chinese patterning and a lantern-lit pitched ceiling. That graceful ceiling, which measures about 16.5 feet at its apex, posed a challenge to the B.Y. team, whose members had to work carefully to integrate rafters evenly among existing columns and openings. Designers from PointofView Lighting (Melbourne, Australia) collaborated to add custom lanterns and uplight the rafters for an airy, spacious feel. Because the client asked that a Chinese teahouse be woven into the design narrative, traditional teahouse seating in the main dining area was juxtaposed with modern banquettes alongside a cluster of bird cages. (It was once common to see elderly men sipping and socializing with caged pet birds in tow.) Added spatial drama, Chan says, is created by offsetting the volume of the main dining space against more intimate private dining rooms and tighter corridors. It creates a sense of warmth and dynamism inside the restaurant which, since its opening, has become the translation of its Chinese name a full house.
hues are matched with toned-down materials for a "sophisticated take on a traditional Chinese aesthetic," according to B.Y.Architects' Lisa Chan.
PROJECT SUPPLIERS
RETAILER
19
Yong Yi Ting
SHANGHAI
Above High ceilings with low-hung, glowing lanterns in Yong Yi Ting provide a sense of grandeur and intimacy, all at once.
In Shanghais financial district on the east side of the Huangpu River, designers at Yong Yi Ting faced a major stressor: In light-loving China, the 10,000-square-foot Yong Yi Ting restaurant was 21 feet underground and situated in the basement of a hotel, making access an issue. New York-based designers from dash design took a multi-pronged approach, using a bright, creamy motif for common dining areas and building in two entryways, one for general dining and the other for guests of the restaurants eight private dining rooms. Low hanging lighting on 18-foot ceilings makes your body more comfortable in the space, so theres grandness but also an intimacy to it, says dash design principal David Ashen, who has a human factors engineering background. The project melds a European-inspired wine bar an element the restaurateur wanted to emphasize wrapped in dark woods with cabinetry detailing,
hundreds of lanterns and rich fabrics that evoke the mysticism of Imperial China. This project was not Ashens first in China but, he says, there were still few surprises. After the restaurant opened, he learned that some younger patrons in private dining rooms were asking for blinds to be raised, turning the privacy-preferred cultural norm upside down with a bit of voyeurism.
PROJECT SUPPLIERS
RETAILER DESIGN
Victor Arzale International Design, Hong Kong Guangzhou Pearl River Decoration Engineering Co. Ltd., Guangzhou, China
For a full list of suppliers, go to vmsd.com.
XU FE I , S HA NG H AI
Arquitectonica Shanghai, Shanghai Shanghai Xian Dai Architectural Design Group, Shanghai
LIGHTING
GENERAL CONTRACTOR
with traditional Chinese motifs welcomes guests to this private dining area, one of eight available.
Left A two-way mirror with
electronic blinds adds intimacy to a private dining area. These secluded spaces are popular among business executives and government ofcials.
21
Above Due to the size of the brass ring light xtures at P.F. Chang's in Laval, Canada, electroplating was impossible, so the overlapping circles were fashioned from solid brass.
P.F. Changs (Scottsdale, Ariz.) may be a chain, but its restaurateurs prefer the term collection. Unlike your garden variety franchise, the affordably priced restaurants create a new look for each new build. No two are alike. Canada has a higher demand for wine than other P.F. Chang's restaurants expect, so Aria Group Architects (Oak Park, Ill.), whose team has been creating concept after concept for P.F. Changs since the late-90s, included freestanding display cabinets to integrate wine offerings into the store format. Weve started taking a bit more design risk in international markets, creating something different than P.F. Changs was used to, and were integrating those ideas back into U.S. stores, says senior architectural designer Shannon Sterne. Arias team settled on a timeless design that includes rustic wood plank tile for the bar area, rich walnut and brass with a brushed-satin finish that creates a modern vibe. But using that brass was no easy task. Because
the oversized brass ring light fixtures are hung by cables, one overlapping the next, lighting designers created a 10-by-10-foot blueprint, requiring construction crews to drop down cables at exact measurements through sheet rock to create attachment points even before ventilation was installed. Still, the resulting effect is a cosmopolitan take on a restaurant that incorporates everything from LEDs to keep up with increasingly strict Canadian Electrical Code requirements to an outdoor patio with an integrated overhang that celebrates the excitement of being outside when possible in northern climes. x
PROJECT SUPPLIERS
RETAILER LIGHTING
P.F. Chang's
LAVAL , CANADA
Laval restaurant makes use of 28-watt LEDs, which are incorporated more heavily into the chain's international venues than its U.S.-based restaurants.
Below Each P.F. Chang's restaurant incorporates a unique, hand-painted mural, such as the Asianinspired graphic below.
23
Sister Style
Holt Renfrews hr2 concept carries the department stores genes and a pop art aesthetic.
By Carly Hagedon, Assistant Editor
TOM A RBA N PH OTOG RAPH Y IN C . , TORONTO
Siblings dont always look alike. Such is the case with Holt Renfrew (Toronto) and its new little sister: the roughly 23,000-square-foot hr2 concept. Found in only one other location Brossard's Quartier DIX30 shopping center in Quebec this outlet in Toronto's Vaughan Mills shopping center is focused on mid-priced designer and luxury goods.
24 OCTOBER 2013 | vmsd.com
Its a brand new retail concept and it was a collaboration with the client to define it: How is it different than Holt Renfrew, but still carries the DNA? says Steve Scuro, partner at Janson Goldstein LLP (New York), the design firm tasked with the project. It had to be its own distinct experience, mood.
boasts an open layout with meandering path, unlike its department store elder, Holt Renfrew. The clean, bright interior creates a backdrop for colorful products.
inspired fabric signage accompanies similarly hued merchandise and can be changed to reect seasonality or promotions.
A DA M M OCO, TO RON TO
25
Originally founded in 1837 as a fur shop in Quebec City, Holt Renfrew has become synonymous with luxury and authentic Canadian retail throughout its 176-year history. The department store giant, currently owned by the Selfridges Group (London), has managed to stay in the public eye with its inventive social media campaigns (Hot@175 for its 175th
birthday last year, for example) as well as boutiques like The Beauty Hall in Yorkdale, Canada, where patrons can experience facials and a polish bar. Launched in March, this smaller-format concept boasts some of the same designer bags and jewelry normally found at Holt Renfrew, but its more than a watered down version of its older sibling. Instead,
shoppers clear sight lines as they walk through the space, while merchandise displayed sectionally adds a department store feel.
(LEFT ) ADAM MOCO, TORONTO; ( ABOVE) TOM ARBAN PHOTOGRAPHY INC ., TORONTO
Above Digital ticker tape, similar to the iconic signage in Times Square, ows above shelving and displays programmed messages to shoppers. The content it relays can be adjusted in-house.
Reeve Store Equipment Co. 9131 Bermudez Street Pico Rivera, CA 90660
800-927-3383 www.reeveco.com
Above The bright white dressing room is accented with green contemporary furniture and oversized numbers dancing across doors, inviting patrons into the minimalistic area.
the store offers a pop-art aura against simple white floors, walls and ceilings. Also, unlike its predecessor, hr2 is an open concept, allowing customers to experience the setting all at once, rather than department by department. Its a very fluid space. There is distinct, overarching architecture and within that, the merchandise defines each area, Mark Janson, partner, Janson Goldstein, says. Its a holistic approach to the space. The resulting design is a mix of youthful and abstract motifs: pops of color burst from signage and are juxtaposed against the white interior throughout the space. Giant, seemingly animated numbers bounce across dressing room doors, while floating cabinetry and merchandise define sections. The mostly white interior serves as a neutral backdrop, allowing colorful merchandise to grab the customer's attention.
For additional motion, stretched-fabric signage fit to frames and adorned with super-sized graphics rest above floating cabinetry, and electronic ticker tape flows through the interior to relay selective messages to shoppers. Meanwhile, a winding path initiated by a linear, sculptural ceiling treatment, guides patrons throughout the stores subsections. As you walk through, you can glimpse various merchandise throughout the entire store, yet, when youre shopping, youre in a space thats more defined and has more intimate scale, Scuro says. Meant to be abstract and never literal, according to Janson, the super graphic was inspired by pop art and is meant to be changed regularly, allowing shoppers a fresh experience on each visit. Off to each side of the path are rooms that feature the different types of merchandise, like handbags, shoes and clothing. Its designed to be a meandering path, Janson says. Little siblings are notorious for sneaking off with your favorite outfit on the first day of school and singlehandedly creating interruptions, but hr2 has proven itself worthy of hanging with the big kids. Its meant to feel fashionable, fresh and distinguishable from other brands, Janson says. It's a distinctive environment that represents the brand. x
PROJECT SUPPLIERS
Holt Renfrew, Toronto
DESIGN
A DA M M OCO, TO RON TO
market booms, retailers like jeweler Hearts on Fire are creating stores that are less formal and more modern for a younger shopper.
Las Vegas store is lled with technology so customers can interact with the merchandise and feel the experience.
31
Right Charming Charlie is doing for scarves, bags and jewelry what H&M has done for fashion. It's affordable, disposable, trendy and fun. Below There are 250 Charming Charlie stores around the country and young shoppers are ocking to their informal, accessible settings.
Derwoed notes that Ralph Lauren has created an accessories sub-shop inside its traditional vendor shop for its new line of mens bags and other accessories. If the hot new item today is iPhones, says Ken Nisch, chairman of JGA Inc. (Southfield, Mich.), an equally important accessory is the cover on the device. Today, your accessories have accessories, says Nisch. Snap-on iPhone or Galaxy covers is a whole new sector of merchandise. Swarovski, Coach and Louis Vuitton are among the brands, and they can reach $200-$300. As designer brands extend their accessories offerings to eyeglass frames, umbrellas and iPhone covers jewelry is increasingly in their cross-hairs. David Yurman, Ted Muehling and Gurhan Orhan are as important brands to todays shopper as Tiffany, Cartier and Harry Winston. Theyre all fighting for a piece of the $33 billion U.S. jewelry market, which is beginning to show signs of life again after five years of lackluster performance. Some of the industrys finest jewelry designers like Temple St. Clair, Kara Ross, Amrita Singh and Ippolita Rostagno whose treasures have sold in New Yorks Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue are beginning to produce custom pieces
for individual clients willing to pay five or six figures because the retail jewelry market has become somewhat fragmented. The world was collapsing, and the price of gold was astronomical, and people just werent buying jewelry, Ross recently told The New York Times. I was down 75 percent, Singh, who has been selling her collection at Bergdorf Goodman for about 10 years, said in the same article. Now, though both designers still show their fine jewelry collections in a number of stores, including Neiman Marcus, they also sell their less-formal costume jewelry on QVC, where Singhs Bangle Bangle line, with pieces between $50 and $400, sold more than a half-million units last year. Theres an increasing awareness of designer brands in jewelry, just as there is in fashion and other items, says Pam Levine (Levine Design Group, New York), a strategic branding consultant and visual merchandiser specializing in luxury, jewelry, fashion and home accessories. Jewelry shoppers are increasingly looking for designer names. Bergdorf Goodman has an entire floor of its New York womens store devoted not only to fine jewelry (gold, silver, platinum, diamonds and precious stones) but also to fashion jewelry alternative materials, metals and gems. (In the 80s, its designer jewelry offerings were limited to two showcases.) Barneys New York now offers fine, vintage, antique and fashion jewelry. ABC Carpet & Home, the Manhattan one-off home furnishings store, and Anthropologie, the craft-oriented sister of Urban Outfitters (Philadelphia), have extended their fashion jewelry offerings. Even traditional Tiffany (New York) has introduced a line of jewelry designed by architect Frank Gehry.
PAT RI CI A S HE E HA N, CL E VE LA N D
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ILLUMINATED SYSTEM
T h e n e w M a ck C S ( C o m p l e t e Sy s t e m ) i s r e t a i l m e r ch a n d i s i n g a t i t s m o s t i l l u m i n a t e d . A h i g h l y versatile, plug-and-play system that can be c u s t o m i e d t o t a ny n e e d , M a ck C S o ff e r s retailers and manufacturers unprecedented f r e e d o m t o c r e a t e e n ga g i n g , s t a n d o u t d i s p l a y s o l u t i o n s f o r a ny t y p e o f r e t a i l e nv i r o n m e n t .
A GAME CHANGER
w w w. M AC K ST U D I O S . C O M 3 15 . 2 5 2 . 7 5 4 2
Above Two by London is the younger, more casual sibling of the upscale London Jewelers chain. Its sleek, modern stores - like this one in Manhasset, N.Y. - even allow shoppers to design their own engagement rings.
Tiffany is also reexamining its retailing approach, starting with the much more informal, more interactive store it recently opened in New Yorks SoHo. The store is light and inviting, and easier to get around and view the merchandise, says Levine, though it still sells fine jewelry, as it does on Fifth Avenue. But Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston and Cartier also offer more everyday or day-to-evening wear instead of just the serious, important jewelry they offered in the past. Two by London, a division of venerable London Jewelers (Glen Cove, N.Y.), has opened a more casual and expansive, more interactive store in the upscale Americana Manhasset (N.Y.) mall, side by side with its parent London Jewelers, David Yurman and Cartier, in which first-time engagement ring buyers can design their own rings. Hearts on Fire, the Boston-based diamond brand, has opened its first store, in Las Vegas, designed by Eight Inc. (San Francisco), which designed the first Apple store. Its very modern, almost high-tech, says Levine. Its a good example of whats happening in jewelry retail different technology to better interact with the merchandise and provide an experience.
COU RT E SY OF T WO BY LO NDON , M A NH A SS E T, N . Y.
This summer, Swarovski, the Austrian crystals producer, announced intentions to become the global leader in the fine jewelry segment, partly by expanding its Swarovski retail empire. It has begun to test a new fine jewelry concept in China, where it has created Swarovski Fine Jewelry brand shops featuring dedicated architecture and specially trained staff. We want to find out whether Swarovski as a brand is able to credibly carry a fine jewelry line, Robert Buchbauer, a member of the Swarovski executive board, told Womens Wear Daily in August. Swarovski isnt the only group with big ambitions in fine jewelry. This year, Kering (the French multinational company formerly known as PPR) bought Pomellato of Italyfor an estimated $360 million and Chinese jewelry brand Qeelin. The Swatch Group (Biel, Switzerland) bought Harry Winstonfor about $1 billion in January. In 2011, LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton (Paris) acquired Bulgari (Rome). It seems theres a lot of accessories shopping going on, both in front of and behind the display counters. x
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Engelhorn sports puts a new spin on bike store design.
By Lauren Mang, Contributing Writer
For engelhorn sports, the sporting goods division of the Mannheim, Germany-based fashion and accessories purveyor engelhorn, creating a space for high-end bikes and skating equipment was a must. Theres a new enthusiasm for bike and skater sports, partly ignited through the new wave of e-bikes in Germany and Europe, says Angela Kreutz, partner at Blocher Blocher Partners (Stuttgart, Germany), the firm that constructed the retailers new cyclecentric section in its more than 107,000-square-foot store. So engelhorn decided to expand its cycling world to 10,760 square feet.
steel and wood, designers created a meeting point for sporting enthusiasts that unites avant-garde design with functionality.
Below Warm wood contrasts appealingly with the dark metal accents found throughout the store.
A quick switch out of the retailers seasonal selections beach fashion or ski gear from a basementlevel department secured plenty of room for an area that would be a hub for biking enthusiasts. The design team focused on simple materials such as steel and wood. A metal mesh forms what Kreutz calls a mountainous silhouette on the ceiling. And those shapes are reflected in the furniture at the rear of the space to give the customer an almost weightless, suspended-between-heaven-and-earth feeling as if he or she cycled to the summit and was on the verge of descending. One particular design challenge was how to display the bicycles. Fixtures, Kreutz says, need to be functional but really presentable, too. So Blocher Blocher Partners created its own using a flexible track construction that features three different presentation levels and requires no additional struts. They have a particularly delicate effect, she says. Its almost as if the bikes are floating.
N I KO L AUS KOLI US I S , ST U T TG A R T, G E R M A NY
Skates and helmets line the back wall thats pocked with holes to create a more visually appealing and structured surface. To give customers a greater sense of community within the department, the design team introduced a juice bar, the Gipfelkette (mountain chain in German) to encourage athletes to gather and mingle while shopping. Its an ideal spot with a TV to watch sports or for riders and skaters to fuel up before heading out on the trail. x
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Right For better visibility and a cleaner presentation, the design team hoisted helmets high on stakes.
Below This industriallooking wall punctured with holes takes on a textured approach to provide an eye-catching backdrop.
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With more than 3400 stores across Canada, Tim Hortons, a fast casual restaurant chain known for its coffee and doughnuts, is a national icon, as tightly woven into the countrys cultural identity as ice hockey, maple syrup and beavers (and Bieber, as in pop singer Justin). In a bid to compete with encroaching up-market coffee chains, Tims, as it is affectionately called, has for the past several years been giving some of its stores makeovers, switching out the familiar bright
primary colors and high contrast lighting with softer, more residential design elements, in hopes of enticing customers to linger. GFX Intl. Inc. (Grayslake, Ill.) was retained to oversee and execute the design for the Leaside, Canada, store, a new construction project located in the original maintenance yard for the Canadian Northern Railway and part of a larger municipal redevelopment initiative. The firm was challenged to reinforce the existing
lighting and cozy seating invite Tim Hortons guests to stay awhile.
Above Weathered barn
wood panels mimic those used in the original railroad yard maintenance building.
43
Above Designers reproduced an old railroad map, sizing it to run the expanse of wall over the service line.
brand while celebrating the historical significance of the location and communicating the life-cycle story of its coffee. GFX designed, engineered and constructed a 3-D wall display to tell the companys Grow, Harvest & Roast story. We wanted to share Tim Hortons relationship with the coffee farmers, Eric Olson, creative director, says. Theyve worked to develop good relations with them to make both the farmers and Tim Hortons successful. The story is displayed in photos which were printed on whitewashed, reclaimed wood. You see the process of the pickers and the harvesting and the roasting all the way to the poured cup, Olson says.
Right A 3-D display shares the company's coffee story from crop harvest to the brew cycle.
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Above Photos of original railroad artifacts contribute to the space's vintage vibe. Right The city of Toronto's
archival collection was an idea-generation source for the design team and resulted in the reproduction railroad track chandelier pictured here.
The design team found inspiration from the sites original railroad maintenance building, which has since been transformed from a dilapidated, abandoned structure into a neighboring market. Vintage props, period-specific artifacts, original photography and historical maps were researched, procured and verified before they were approved for use inside the Tim Hortons space. Olson and his colleagues found old images of the Leaside railroad at the Toronto public library and city archives. We also worked with a local train museum to source railway artifacts, which we photographed, Olson says. We lit them and shot them like stilllife art pieces and created a little art gallery [in the store].
46 OCTOBER 2013 | vmsd.com
Its a neat display, Olson modestly describes the outcome. And a timely departure for an established chain bound to stay on track as a market leader. x
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If youre looking for an alternative to poured-in-place terrazzo or hard surface flooring, try Fritztile flexible tiles (shown). With a low life-cycle cost and FloorScore Certification, this surface is made from recycled content.
In addition to retailers embracing natural flooring, customization is continuing to grow specifically branded designs or colors to create a cohesive space. Even though some customers dont pay attention [to flooring], its a subliminal kind of thing, says Ali Yadegari, director of retail design, GreenbergFarrow (Atlanta). When you enter an environment and the whole design comes together you tend to want to spend more time [there]. Yadegari reiterates the role flooring plays in design, Its an essential part of your finish; its the first thing people see. Spend a decent amount of time trying to understand who [your] customers are; whatever your message or brand is, the flooring should be a significant part of that whole message. Carly
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Available in nine colors, the durable Visions line of wide-plank moso bamboo flooring features a zeroVOC hardwax-oil finish, is made of 94 percent bio-based content and is harder than oak.
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Add some color to your world with Woven Vinyl Flooring. Choose from four colors on select patterns as well as the new Cracked Earth Collection to add some needed flair.
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Have a fast-tracked project on your plate? Floorworks LVT, shown here in Trader Joes, is available in contemporary patterns, including scraped hardwoods, weathered barn planks and stained concretes.
HPS Schnox hpsuboors.com Ease flooring installations with AP self-leveling compound, used to provide a supersmooth subfloor, while elastomeric MSP Classic wood flooring adhesive allows movement as wood expands and contracts on a range of substrates.
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This hybrid is made of a vinyl wear layer fusion-bonded to 5 mm. of recycled Ecore rubber. Emulating real wood, Forest rx is ergonomic and noticeably quieter underfoot.
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Captivate with The Wing, a FloorScore-certified, contemporary, woven vinyl flooring, manufactured exclusively in Sweden. x
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P-o-p displays are continuing to integrate technology such as digital screens and QR codes connecting shoppers both electronically and emotionally, according to Kevin Keating, president, Hangar 12 and Two/Ten (Chicago). [Retailers] use digital signage to demonstrate what they would typically verbalize, says Keating. They can use video, animation and custom content to tell the story about a product; its an extension of the retail staff on the floor to provide information to consumers. Keating suggests implementing mobile-friendly websites to thwart showrooming as well: Create emotional connections in-store and know your shoppers mindset. Its putting product in their hands, showing them how theyre going to feel once they purchase the product. Its creating that touch-andfeel experience and providing options they may not see online. Carly Hagedon
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THE SIGN CENTRE 5221 N. Long (60630). P: 773-286-4599. F: 773-286-8799. Email: thesigncentre@aol.com. Contact: Bob Dismang, Guy Dismang. [A 14] ALPINA MANUFACTURING 3418 N. Knox Avenue (60641). P: 800-915-2828. F: 800-217-9431. Email: sales@fastchangeframes.com. www. fastchangeframes.com. [A International 6.7]
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CHECKING OUT
Interview by Steve Kaufman
Gina Mercatili
Shes the merchandise coordinator at Brooklyns Barclays Center, where she can team her passions for the arts and for sports.
What do you think has formed your interesting career? I lived a dual life growing up. I was born and lived in Colonia, N.J., but spent my weekends at our apartment on the Upper West Side of Manhattan. I like to say I lived in New Jersey but the city raised me. How did you feel about Brooklyn? I grew up terrified of Brooklyn. It was a thousand miles away from the Upper West Side. And city life developed your interest in the arts? Or in sports? Both. My mother would take me to Lincoln Center and my father would take me to Madison Square Garden. On which side did you land? When I was young, in the theater. I studied acting in the Young Actors program at the Lee Strasberg Theatre & Film Institute. But sports won out in the end? Actually, visual merchandising won out in the end. I applied to several college programs for law, for theater, for writing, for architecture but ended up at LIM. My role model is Norman Bel Geddes, the innovative industrial designer, and he started out designing stage lighting for the theater, which is a form of visual. How did that lead to sports merchandising? My college job was merchandise supervisor for the Prudential Center in New Jersey, where the Nets and Devils played. After school, when Jersey kids were coming into the city I was taking the train to Newark. What has the Barclays Center meant to Brooklyn? Its incredible. The Dodgers were well before my time. But I can see how a home team gives the streets of the borough a unifying feel. Everybody in Brooklyn loves the place. Three different worlds arent they theater, retail and sports? Not really. Theyre all about eliciting an emotional response and pushing a pleasing aesthetic, and you want to walk away from each of them feeling rewarded. Is the theater still in you? It resonates in everything I do. It made me view the world in a grandiose level, no limits, everything is attainable. I kept pushing because I didnt know I couldnt. x
Gina's List
Gina Mercatili may be one of the few people in our industry with her own page on the Internet Movie Database (IMDb). Heres her IMDb filmography:
} Ten-Buck Baton (Shot Girl), 2013 } After Hours: The Movie, 2011 } Mafiettes (Bartender Nikki), 2009
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