AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY 1 By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L.

mka Maya Heath

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY

Tambour, aari, zalakdo i, re ht, ra hti and tambour are a fe! of the many name u ed to refer to embroidery done !ith a har"ened hook in u#h a !ay that the "attern i e$e#uted !ith a #hain tit#h. Thi te#hni%ue i u ed either by it elf or !ith other tit#he and te#hni%ue u#h a a""li%u& on a 'ariety of (round fabri# from tran "arent (auze to #an'a , felt and leather. )t i u ed on #lothin(, hou ehold (ood u#h a #u hion #o'er , !all han(in( , and floor #o'erin( , to de#orati'e hor e tra""in( . )t #an be dated a early a the *th #entury +, to the #urrent day.

BACKGROUND AND HISTORY Hook embroidery !" be d!#ed #o !$ e!r%y !$ #&e '#& e"#(ry CE i" Ce"#r!% A$i! !"d )er$i!*
Silk dama k !ith embroidered du#k , +entral A ia, *th-.th #entury Te$tile from the re(ion alon( the Silk /oad "lay an im"ortant role in the ne!ly furni hed "ermanent e$hibition. Thi red ilk !a !o'en in +hina and embroidered in +entral A ia !ith tyli ed du#k motif that may be tra#ed ba#k to 0er ian "rototy"e , thu do#umentin( the e$#han(e of (ood and motif bet!een ea t and !e t. 1Abe((Stiftun(, +H-2123 /i((i ber( 4"hoto5 +hri to"h 'on 6ir7(8

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY 3 By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY 2 By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

By #&e +#& e"#(ry CE i# !" be ,o("d i" E-y.#/ i" .ie e$ #&o(-&# #o be im.or#ed ,rom )er$i! or m!de i" E-y.# ,or im.or# #o #&e )er$i!" m!rke#*

Ba e fabri#5 linen ,mbroidery5 !ool 9 #otton Stit#h - #hain tit#h

Ti u d:,(y"te, Temoin du Monde Arabe 6)))e;6e ie#le , +olle#tion Bou'ier, Mu &e d:art et d:hi toire <ribour(, =en>'e and )n titut du monde arabe, 0ari . 1??2. <i(. 1*@-1** "". 3**-3.A

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY B By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

E-y.# - 01#& Ce"#(ry CE

Ba e fabri#5 linen ,mbroidery5 !ool 9 #otton Stit#h - #hain tit#h !ith !o'en tit#h ba#k(roundin( Ti u d:,(y"te, Temoin du Monde Arabe 6)))e;6e ie#le , +olle#tion Bou'ier, Mu &e d:art et d:hi toire <ribour(, =en>'e and )n titut du monde arabe, 0ari . 1??2. <i(. 1*. ". 3.1

)n the 1Cth #entury, in the rei(n of the Mu(hal ,m"eror Akbar, hi #hroni#ler Abu al-<azl ibn Mubarak !rote in the famou Ain-i-Akbari5 DHi maEe ty 4Akbar8 "ay mu#h attention to 'ariou tuff F hen#e )rani, Ottoman, and Mon(olian arti#le of !ear are in mu#h abundan#e e "e#ially te$tile embroidered in the "attern of Nakshi, Saadi, Chikhan, Ari, Zardozi, Wasli, Gota and Kohra. The im"erial !ork ho" in the to!n of Lahore, A(ra, <ateh"ur and Ahmedabad turn out many ma ter"ie#e of !orkman hi" in fabri# , and the fi(ure and "attern , knot and 'ariety of fa hion !hi#h no! "re'ail a toni h e'en the mo t e$"erien#ed tra'eler . Ta te for fine material ha in#e be#ome (eneral, and the dra"ery of embroidered fabri# u ed at fea t ur"a e e'ery de #ri"tion.D

I" #&e 02#& e"#(ry m!de i#$ 3!y i"#o "or#&er" I"di! 3i#& #&e M(-&!% i"4!der$/ bo#& !$ ! ,!bri embroidery !"d !$ embroidery !"d !..%i5(6 o" %e!#&er !%%ed 7mo &i b&!r!#8*
Saudi Aram#o Gorld 5 Mu(hal Maal, Huly-Au(u t 3A11

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY @ By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

A a te#hni%ue u ed in +entral A ia and 0er ia, hook embroidery i u ed in hor e tra""in( , !all and floor #o'erin( , and tent "anel . )t i till u ed today in the makin( of uzani , made by the nomadi# "eo"le of #entral A ian. Traditional 1?th +entury 0er ian Saddle #o'er and detail ho!in( u e of hook embroidery !ith a""li%u&. Silk on !ool

0er ian /u( 5 Iote on /e ht Te$tile , Barry O+onnell, &##.9::333*.er$i!" ! r.e#-(ide* om:$3!$i!:R(-$:)er$i!":Re $&#:Re$&#*&#m. A##e ed5 2-1-1B

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY C By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

Metro"olitan Mu eum of Art - Heilbrun Timeline of Art Hi tory htt"5JJ!!!.metmu eum.or (JtoahJhoJ1AJ!aiJhoK1A.22. 1.htm A##e ed5 B-@-A?

Loun( "rin#e - =uEarat 1?th +. - Mardo i

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY * By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY . By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

Iamba - traditional felted #ar"et - Na hmir Hand embroidery ;A!ri K!!m< ($i"- o%or,(% dyed #&re!d$ !"d #&e ;!!ri< "eed%e i$ !rried o(# i, #&e N!md! i$ ! #r!di#io"!% o"e* There are al o e$am"le of ome beautifully #rafted #ar"et by tit#hin( the "ie#e of old !orn out Iamda to(ether, !ith a""li%u& te#hni%ue. )n #entral A ia, hook embroidery i !orked into traditional !all han(in and furniture #o'er #alled uzani . Often !orked in #ombination !ith a""li%u& and #ou#hin(, it #an be done on a lar(e frame or in-hand.

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY ? By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY 1A By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

,$"an ion of trade !ith ,uro"e be(innin( in the 1*th #entury brou(ht the te#hni%ue to ,uro"e throu(h mu#h of the 1?th #entury. Madame 0om"adour at her tambour frame.

T!mbo(r Work Embroidery/ 0'=>-0?@> There i only one tit#h to ma ter in tambour embroidery. )n tead of a needle, 'ery fine, har" hook i "un#hed throu(h a ti(htly tret#hed fabri# to #at#h a fine thread from beneath and dra! it u", #reatin( a linked, #hain like tit#h. The name Dtambour !orkD #ome from the !ay the fabri# i held taut bet!een t!o round, fitted hoo" , re emblin( the head of a mall drum, or tambour. 4Oemon tratin( tambour !ork, left, Hanea Ghita#re, mantuamaker from +olonial Gilliam bur(.8

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY 11 By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

1.1A-3A /e(en#y 0eriod Tambour !ork - detail

TECHNIAUES AND MATERIABS The (round fabri# i tret#h ti(htly o'er a frame - ometime a late frame, ometime a round frame - (i'in( it an a""earan#e omethin( like a drum or tambourine, hen#e it ,uro"ean term PtambourQ from the <ren#h meanin( hand-held drum. On fine fabri# the embroidery !a e$e#uted !ith a fine iron hook 'ery imilar to a #ro#het hook. Ghen !orked on tiff material the !ork !a held in the hand rather than tret#hed on a frame and the needle !a held in an a!l handle. The !ork i tret#h ti(htly on a frame. )t #an either be a %uare frame, u#h a a late frame or a round one. )n either #a e it hould be e$ternally u""orted a the !ork i done !ith one hand holdin( the hook abo'e and the other belo! holdin( the thread.

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY 13 By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

Traditional aari hook are made of iron and !ra""ed in #ord for more #omfort and a better (ri".

Tambour hook are et into a handle imilar to a "in 'i e. The hook i lined u" !ith the ti(htenin( #re! to allo! the u er to ee ho! the hook i oriented.

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY 12 By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

The ba i# tambour tit#h i fairly im"le. The thread i held belo! the !ork and dra! theou(h the fabri# !ith the hook. A the hook i in erted in the fabri#, (i'e a li(ht t!i t to the hook to be ure the thread i #om"letely e#ured in the hook before it i dra!n throu(h. A Mo#hi hook or +obbler Hook i u ed for !ork on hea'ier material u#h a hea'y #an'a of leather. )t i held in the "alm like an a!l !hile the !ork i held in the hand rather than tret#hed on a frame. A fin(er (uard i !orn on the under hand to "re'ent the a!l dama(in( the fin(er .

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY 1B By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

USING
THE MOCHI HOOK

PIote on the R e of the Hook in )ndian ,mbroideryQ, )r!in, Hohn and Hani h, Barbara, The Bulletin of the Ieedle and Bobbin +lub, 6ol @2 41?*A8 , htt"5JJ!!!.# .arizona.eduJ"attern J!ea'in(Jarti#le Jnb*AKem1."df, A##e ed5 2-1-1B

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY 1@ By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

A GABBERY OF VINTAGE AND MODERN TAMBOUR HOOKS

=eor(ian <au$ )'ory La#e Tambour Hook +ir#a ,arly to mid 1.AA

Anti%ue Out#h Hallmarked Sterlin( Sil'er Tambour Set ! 2 +ro#het Hook +ir#a 1.CA

A(ate Handled +ro#het Hook - ,n(li h - +ir#a 1.*A

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY 1C By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

Iine A orted Tambour J +ro#het Hook - 1.AA

+ontem"orary )'ory Tambour Hook by arti t 0hilli" A. Mont(omery

AN OVERVIEW OF HOOK EMBROIDERY 1* By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

Bib%io-r!.&y C
PThe Abe((-Stiftun(, /i((i ber(, !el#ome 'i itor from late A"ril to early Io'ember<ebruary *, 3A1BQ 1Abe((-Stiftun(, +H-2123 /i((i ber( 4"hoto5 +hri to"h 'on 6ir7(8, &##.9::333*&!%i* om:"e3$:#&e-!be---$#i,#("--reo.e"$-"e3-.erm!"e"#eD&ibi#io":, A##e ed5 3-3*-1B The Abe((-Stiftun( Mu eum, &##.9::333*!be--$#i,#("-* &:e:m($e(m:$o"der!($:1>00:#eD#*&#m%, a##e ed. 3-3.-1B Arti ti# <in(er Blo(, Anita, htt"5JJarti ti#fin(er .blo( "ot.#omJ /o$ane <arabi Shazadeh, PThe Hi tory of 0er ian ,mbroideryQ, htt"5JJ!!!. #a"er ianu.#omJ+la S3AIote J0er ianS3A,mbroidery."df A##e ed5 2-11B ,uro"e A ian +enturie 5 Tradin( ,ura ia 1CAA-1.2A, )nter'ie! !ith Na an and Huma San(ar, Rni'er ity of Gar!i#k, htt"5JJ!!!3.!ar!i#k.a#.ukJfa#Jart Jhi toryJ(h##Jea#Joralhi tory"roEe#tJre our#e Jka am an(arJ A##e ed5 2-1-1B 7+ontem"orary Rzbek Suzani Q, Marla Mallett/ Marla Mallett: Textiles and Tribal Oriental Rugs, http://www.marlamallett.com/suzanis.htm, Accessed 3 ! !" Metro"olitan Mu eum of Art - Heilbrun Timeline of Art Hi tory - Han(in(, 1?th #entury )ran 4/a ht8, htt"5JJ!!!.metmu eum.or(JtoahJhoJ1AJ!aiJhoK1A.22.1.htm A##e ed5 B-@-A? Iaik, ShailaEa O., Traditional ,mbroiderie of )ndia, South A ia Book 4Oe#ember 1??C8 PIote on the R e of the Hook in )ndian ,mbroideryQ, )r!in, Hohn and Hani h, Barbara, The Bulletin of the Ieedle and Bobbin +lub, 6ol @2 41?*A8 , htt"5JJ!!!.# .arizona.eduJ"attern J!ea'in(Jarti#le Jnb*AKem1."df, A##e ed5 2-1-1B P0er ian /u( 5 Iote on /e ht Te$tile Q, Barry O+onnell, &##.9::333*.er$i!" !r.e#-(ide* om:$3-!$i!:R(-$:)er$i!":Re$&#:Re$&#*&#m . A##e ed5 2-1-1B S!(di Ar!m o Wor%d 9 7M(-&!% M!!%8/ &##.$9::333*$!(di!r!m o3or%d* om:i$$(e:1>00>@:m(-&!%*m!!%*&#m/ E(%yA(-($# 1>00 DS"lendid Suzani D !ritten by +aroline Stone 4a""eared on "a(e C-12 on the HulyJAu(u t 3AA2 "rint edition of Saudi Aram#o Gorld. Ti u d:,(y"te, Temoin du Monde Arabe 6)))e-;6e ie#le , +olle#tion Bou'ier, Mu &e d:art et d:hi toire <ribour(, =en>'e and )n titut du monde arabe, 0ari . 1??2