(6) Tsunami Simulation Numerical simulations of tsunamis correspond to the case where the meteorologica l disturbance term (which

represents a forcing external force) is removed from the numerical computation s cheme for storm surge. The incident wave profile is assigned in advance, or it is assumed that the initial variation in the water level is equal to the displacement of the sea floor in the earthquake fault model. The simulati on makes it possible to investigate the effectiveness of breakwaters designed to protect harbors and coa stal zones against tsunamis and the effect of topographic changes (land reclamation etc.) on a tsunami 3), 4). In tsunami simulations that use hydraulic model experiments, a tsunami wave prof ile that has previously been reproduced by a numerical simulation is generated at the model boundary to investigate the effectiveness of breakwaters and the effects of the topography of reclaimed land 5). The method of Iwasaki and Mano may be used to obtain the runup height over the l and in a numerical computation of tsunami. When the water level exceeds the crown elevation of a br eakwater or levee in the calculation region, the quantity of overtopping per unit width may be calculated using Hom-ma s formula. When estimating the effectiveness of tsunami mitigation facilities, the loss in tsunami momentum is an important factor. With regard to the momentum loss that is proportional to the m ean flow velocity, consideration is given to friction along the sea bottom, which may be evaluated using say Mann ing s roughness formula, and the aperture loss 6), which takes place when there is a sudden constriction or w idening of the cross section at the opening between breakwaters. (7) Tsunami Wave Force The wave force of tsunami is given as the wave force of a long wave, and may be assumed to be as sketched in Fig. T- 6.4.2. When h/L < 0.04 and there is no wave breaking, the wave force is assumed to be zero at a height = 1.5H above the still water level and p (=1.10H) at the still water level, and to have a linear distribution in between; it is assumed to have a constant intensity of p below the water surface . Correction for wave direction is not made, and the wave height H is that of prog ressive tsunami. Note, however, that if there is a breakwater, according to the results of numerical si mulations, the tsunami wave height in front of the breakwater becomes twice that for the case when there is no brea kwater, owing to reflection. In this case the distance between the maximum water level in front of the breakwate r and the still water level may be used as the incident wave height. It is also acceptable to use one half of th e standing wave height as the incident wave height.