INTRODUCTION TO GARMENT MANUFACTURE 1.

1 An over a bout indian garment industry The Indian textile & apparel industry covers a wide range of economic activates and Thus plays a significant, industrial production and foreign exchange earnings. It contributes About 4% of GDP and 14% of industrial output. Second largest employer after agriculture, The industry provides direct employment to 35 million people including substantial segments Of weaker sections of society. With a very low import-intensity of about 1. 5% only, it is Largest net foreign exchange earner in India, earning almost 35% of foreign exchange.

The industry houses nearly 30000 readymade garment manufacturing units and Employs nearly 35 million people and the total garment export of india during the period 207-2008 is around 9. 69bilion USD. Indian garment export business has made great strides in the past few years and today many of the leading fashion brands, from all over the world, are sourcing The product from India. India apparel export of account for less then 3% of overall world export of apparels suggest an opportunity for considerable growth. With resource the quota restriction getting environment. There is also a very large domestic market for Indian appear manufacturcater to. With the entry of international garment companies into indie; they bring in new designs, new craftsmanship, modern scientific management and also the marketing strategies. These all can strengthen the competition mechanism so that the industry will gain more resource for developing new products, new brand names, technology development & traing in order to increase market Combetitiveness.

India is a high-ranking exporter to EU of yarns, made-ups and some categories of Garments. Export of Indian fabric to EU in future is likely to further slow down substantially. Made up exports to EU, like in US, are a very big opportunity for India.

Indian textile clothing sectors have a tremendous potential, only a portion of which Has been exploited due to some constraints. When we think of made-ups and accessories India is very in crafts, prints and grey fabrics, in this industry, because of lack of knowledge of Small scale entrepreneurs, there is no systematic flow of data to achieve the required target of production at low cost. In recent times the apparel industry is flourishing like anything in all parts of the in the northern region (Delhi, Jaipur) was known for fashion apparel units, let of hand work, small order garments, complex styles, Export weight fabric weight fabric with innovative print. Ludhiana specialist in woolen products were western region (Bombay, Gujarat ) units the advantages of mill made fabrics dies fair mix of fashions apparel on basic short. Southern region (Bangalore, Madras) were mainly known for basic products in dyed production fabrics with high volume orders. Tripur specialists in high volume, low cost basic cotton units products.

Bangalore has modern factories mainly followed assembly live manufacturing with salaried workers whereas tirupur worked mainly on praise rate systems. Top seven exporter countries of apparel (2000) Country China Italy Mexico USA Germany Turkey India Value (billion USD) 36.07 14.28 13.22 8.7 8.65 6.84 6.53

1.2.Fashion Trends Fashion is a global business. Fashions are not static, there is always movement and that movement has a direction, discernible to careful observers. The direction in which fashion are moving are called fashion trend. Fashion is a very powerful force, which rules our lives. It can be restricted just to garment or ones dressing sense, but is inseparable from every aspect of life. Fashion is a define as a particular trend, which has been accepted by a group of people at a particular period of time. Fashion change from time to time and it varies within country and between countries. Further it depend upon the culture, seasons, social status etc. For example, skirt lengths may be moving up from the calf to the knee-perhaps almost imperceptibility from one season to the next. But generally in an upward directions. We definitely have access to the latest information in the trends followed by the garment industry worldwide. Lets focus on trends in the garment industry. The design has four basic components: 1) Colour 2) Texture 3) Silhouette 4) Details. Every fashion designers concentrate and work on these concepts to produce a fashionable garments for that period. 1.3.Labour and capital requirements in the garment industry Type of labours: A.Skilled labour d.Child labour b.Semi skilled labour enforce labour c. unskilled labour

(!) Skilled Labour: Skilled labour is the one who is technically sound experienced and knows when and what has to be done. He produces maximum output with quality with in the prescribed time of work.

(!!) Semi skilled labour Semi-skilled labour is the one who is on the job traing and knows half of the work to carryout and the remaining with assistance. The productivity and quality of the products to be monitored often. (!!!) UN skilled labour: Un skilled labour is the one who does manual work only and does not possess any technical skills. He has to be trained thoroughly before being engaged in regular shift works. (!V) Child labour: Any work formed by a person, younger than the age of 15 years are called as child labour. As per labour act. Legally child labour is not to be engaged in work. (V)Forced Labour All work or service that is extracted from any person under the means of any penalty from which said person has not offers him/her voluntarily.

Capital Requirements: The capital requirements for running a garment industry are, Building with all facilities like approval, registration, water and electricity Machinery requirement Different garment production machineries and finishing machineries are required Ex. The basic machineries required for running a small size garment industry with the Production capacity of 1500 pieces for producing basic T-shirt is a. Lock stitch machine 20 nos. b. Overlockmachine-5 nos c. Flat lock machine-2 nos.

3.Man power requirement Different skill labour are required for garment production 1. Sewing machine operator-lock stitch machine, Overclock machine, Flat lock machine, Button hole % Fixing machine, Feed off-arm machine.

2. Pressing and fusing machine operator 3. Checking and packing workers 4.Running cost of garment industry This cost includes purchasing of raw material, accessories and labour changes. 1.4 . Different types of woven fabrics used for garments. The garment production process is affected by the fabric design very much. This because, that the design of the fabrics may be unit-directional or bi-directional. During laying of the fabric on the cutting table, all the subsequently layers should be laid on the same manner according to the direction of design. Also the type of pattern lay-out should be selected according to the design. The following are the different types of woven fabrics used in the mass production (!) Plain fabric : This type of fabric contains solid or only one colour i.e., white or other colours, and there will not be any design in this fabrics. (2). Woven design fabric : Generally, woven design fabrics may be classified into three types. a) Striped b) Checked and c) Other designs The striped fabrics are classified into two types. !) Even striped !!) Uneven striped

In the even striped fabrics, the lines of the design are completely balanced in one or two repeats, And in the uneven striped, there is no balance in the design.

If the fabric contains horizontal and vertical lines design, it may be called as checked design fabric. The checked fabrics are also referred as Plain fabric. According to the balance of the design. Like that, The plaid fabrics are also divided into two types. They are!) Even checked (or) Even plaid!!) Uneven checked (or) uneven plaid. The doppy jacquard fabric are classified into the category other designs. This type of fabrics small to large motifs / designs are introduced using dobby / jacquard (3) Printed design fabric :

In printed fabrics, the printed design may be classified into two types. a) Striped b) Other designs. 1. Single side printed and 2. Double side printed.

(4). One side fabric: Generally, most of the fabric types contain right side and wrong side. They are called as one side fabric. But, in some fabric types, there is no difference between both sides, and the two sides are having similar appearance.

(5). One way fabric: These type of fabrics have a woven or a printed design and have a definite up and down direction. The design is not balanced, and the design repeat is in one way direction. These are called as One way fabrics .(e.g.) Uneven plaid and way print. In a flower printed design, the flower heads all are pointing the same direction. When using these fabrics, first determine the direction to take in the garment and place all the patterns in one direction lengthwise. Always work fabric unfolded if the patterns design has a definite right and left. (6). Brushed fabric: In some fabrics, short fibres are brushed and raised to the surface of the fabric, and the fibres are brushed in one direction. This type of fabrics is called as Raised fabrics or Napped Fabrics. According to brushing affect, the pushed fabrics can be classified into two types 1. Single side brushed and 2. Double side brushed. In single side brushed fabrics, only one side of the fabric is brushed, and in double side brushed. (7) . Pile fabrics: This types of fabrics are woven with a third of threads that form a looped or tufted surface of the fabric. Common pile fabrics are velvets, velveteens, corduroy, fur fabric and terry. For richer colour and light reflection, cut velvets, velveteens and corduroy with the pile surface running down.

1.5 Styles of Garments Terms and definitions as per AEPC

Woven Garment Description UK USA 27 8 7 340/1 18 68 234 72 334/5 6 17(G) 78 340/1 19 330 Category

1. Skirts, divided skirts and like 2. Shirts-men/s and boys 3. Shirts, Shirt blouses and Blouse Women and girls. 4. Nightwear pyjamas, night dress and like 5. Babies garments 6. Swimwear 7. Trousers, Shorts, Breeches, bibe and brace overalls and similar articles 8. Jackets and blazers 9. Skirt sleeveless, tightening etc. 10. Hand kerchiefs

342 340

351

335

Knitted garments Description UK USA 83 27 4 4 68 72 73 70/12 26 83 Category

1.jackets and blazers 2.skirts, divided skirts as like 3.Shirts-mens and boys 4.T-shirts, singles and vests 5.Banies garments 6.Swimwear 7.Tracle suits 8.Panty hoses, tights , stockings and similar articles 9.dresses 110.Ski suits

334/335 342 338 338 239 359 332/347 332/359 336 334/347

1.6. Garment factory organization structure Organization is arrangement of people, once arrangement is made, organization charts are formed which are used for showing the structure for each individual who is working in the organization.

Managing director is responsible to the board of directors for the working of the garment unit. He is execute decisions taken at the board meeting. He has directorial function as a member of the board as well as executive. The executive function is executed through the general manager. The general manager Coordinate activities off all the functional named production, purchase, Quality control towards the planned goal. Each and every functional department has managers and they are responsible individually for department oriented activities like production, purchase of raw material and accessories, financial handling, personnel recruitment and welfare, sale of the goods & execution of orders monitoring of quality of the product. The managers of various departments are expected to have the following qualities. finance, personnel,

!) Good knowledge in their field of work !!) Organizing ability and good follow-up technique !!!) Initiative and drive !V) Ability to motivate the people V)knowledge of human relationship