Italian Food and Culture

Paolo Villoresi Publisher & Editor
May-June 2012
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Italian Food and Culture
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May-June 2012
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CIBO Italian Food and Culture - Bimonthly Online Magazine
From Paolo Villoresi
CIBO becomes international! Yes: with
this Special issue on the Lunch Box, the
magazine will connect with the existing
groups of Lunch Box fans in different
parts of the world to give and exchange
recipes created or adapted to the mod-
ern day Lunch Box. There is a great
revival of this simple and healthy way to
eat lunch and it is just as important for children and adults.
Obviously the lunch box offers many advantages: you know
what your are eating, you eat what you prefer and it coasts
a fraction of a lunch in any restaurant or cafeterias. The
industry is producing new slick boxes, and new contempo-
rary nice and disposable products are available. And, believe
it or not, the tradition of the lunch box is only 4.000 year old
and rich of history and recipes. The trick of the success is in
the exchange: I give you recipes and info, you give me yours,
we exchange them with people in Italy, in England, in Japan
and they send me theirs and I send them to you all. It is going
to be fun!!! Lets have fun together!!!
Contents
Text, Photography, Audio and Video copyright 2006 and 2010 by Paolo Villoresi.
All rights reserved.
No part of CIBO: Italian Style for Body, Mind & Soul may be reproduced or utilized in any
form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by
any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the Publisher.
Published by: Italian Cooking Forum. First Edition February 2010
Address inquiries to info: info@Italiancookingforum.net
Cover Recipe
Opinion
The Epicurean Traveler
On Wine
Tidbits
Another Italian Abroad
A Story in Your Plate
On Art
On Music
Beautiful Italy
Lo Storyteller
Encounters
Lunch Box
To subscribe to CIBO, please click here.
48
Tortellini in Broth
May-June 2012 Table of Contents
Click on a title to go directly to the article.
publisher & editor in chief - Paolo Villoresi
contributing editors:
wine: Marta Chiavacci Niccolo` Montecchi - Silvia Baracca
food, culture & travel: Roberto Bernardoni - Marco Carli -
Elia Fiorillo - Giulia Givannelli - Serena Palumbo - Berardo
Paradiso Giancarlo Roversi - Arturo Valiversi.
cinema: Riccardo Jacopino health: Paolo Marzoppino
music: Cristiana Pegoraro art: Luisa del Campana
art Photography: Jeanne Newman
translator: Paolo Rossi Modigliani and Vincent Macagnone
drawings by: Paolo Salvi paintings by: Mario Madiai
graphic designer, art director - Nathaniel Harrison
web master, production - Laura Fantini
food photography - Slava Petrakof - Paolo Villoresi
social media coordinators - Elena Nissen - Laura Fantini
audio & video - Paolo Villoresi - Riccardo Jacopino
video team - Nathaniel Harrison
Paolo Villoresi prepares fresh
and simple food.
Best wishes,
Paolo Villoresi
Editor In Chef
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Table of
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Citrus and Mche Salad
Insalata di Pompelmo e Valeriana
Serves 4
2 oranges, peeled
2 grapefruits, peeled
almonds, shelled
5 ounces asiago stagionato
2 cups mche
2 tablespoons orange juice
tablespoon lemon juice
Corn oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Separate the oranges and grapefruits into segments and
remove any white pith and transfer them onto the plates.
Wash and dry the mche and add it to the
plates with the citrus. Cut the asiago into
flakes and sliced the almonds by hand with a
truffle slicer. Distribute both on top of the sal-
ads.
In a bowl dissolve some salt (three handfulsseems a bit
much) in the lemon juice. Add the orange juice and then,
whisking the sauce, drizzle in some corn oil. Add pepper
and pour on top of the salads.
56
San Paolo Brazil San Paolo Brazil
CIBO
Recipe
Cover
Dear Friends, I have been
deeply and emotionally linked
Olive oil, olives and olive trees
since my very child-
hood. I personally
believe that the olive is
the most useful plant to
man and is the one that
produces the food most
nutritious and richest in
protective properties. I
believe this because I am
sure that the study of olive oil,
the cultivation of olives, and
the method of extraction is still
only in its beginning stages.
The olive has had great importance as the "tree
of civilization" and the most noble and attrac-
tive virtues of the great Mediterranean civi-
lizations are attributed to
this long-lived plant. A
tree that can live for
more than 3000
years must have
seemed eternal and divine to our
ancestors, and I would say that even
today, it retains its fascination and
mystery. I have asked your opin-
ion, from the members of the
Italian Table and our other read-
ers, and I think that you have
said quite a bit and from
many different points of
view. I will leave it to you
and I hope that you will
feel inspired to respond to
the opinions expressed
here and on the web site.
Opinion
Click for more info.
Italian Wine
of the Month Club
May-June 2012
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7
Traveler
The Epicurean
6
Chef Mauro e direttore Eros ristorante DIANA
May-June 2012
THE DIVINE TORTELLINO
By Giancarlo Roversi
For the Italian please click here
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There once was the Tortellino and thankfully is still there. To
the delight of our palates and of the one of all coming to
Italy and Bologna, the capital of Emilia Romagna and
home of the world's oldest university, founded in 1088. The
city is home not only of tortellini, but also the famous mor-
tadella, of the Ragu a la Bolognese, the Bologna sauce,
tagliatelle, lasagne and many other specialties. Neither
must we forget that part of the province of Bologna also
produces the famous Parmigiano-Reggiano because it falls
in the typical area protected by the Consortium.
Bologna and Modena are the only nearby cities where
this tasty stuffed pasta cooked in broth, tortellini, has the
right to called tortellini. In other towns of Emilia-Romagna
one may eat cappelletti , with a different filling, in
Romagna actually filled with cheese. Cappelletti have a dif-
ferent shape, however, usually goes unnoticed except by
the most savvy. In the tortellini, in fact, the upper puff of
dough, that contains the filling, is folded while the
Cappelletti keeps it pointed. Parma, is always running its
own race, it offers anolini, shaped like of a small ring and
filled with sauce of a very rich stew.
Unfortunately, with changing tastes, lifestyles and dietary
fashions, traditional dishes are now undergoing a slow
wear and tear, but tortellini continues to maintain an
acceptable fidelity to its distant roots; they made there
appearance on the table since the Middle Ages, stuffed
simply by small piece of pork loin, Parmesan cheese, eggs
and herbs (they were called enula).
So in the provinces of Bologna and Modena you can still
taste excellent tortellini in a good number of restaurants,
and you may buy them in the fresh pasta shops, in the bak-
eries and delicatessens.
At home, in the families of the area, tortellini are pre-
pared as well; they are authentic delicacies based on
recipes handed down from generation to generation.
There are also different schools of thought on the tortelli-
ni: should they be smaller or larger? Scholud the filling be
insorted raw or lightly seared. In any case, all solutions are
very fine,it is just a matter of preferences and habits as long
as you use quality ingredients and above all a Parmigiano-
Reggiano cheese aged correctly: neither too young nor too
old, full of flavor and not sharp.
As for the stock everybody agrees that it should be of
capon, or at least, of old hen with the addition of some
CIBO
the flowery dough of Elisabetta Martelli
May-June 2012
good piece of beef. Tortellini must be cooked in broth to be
the most tasty and traditional symbol of Bologna.
Young people prefer to eat them garnished with butter or
cream which is an accettable transgression.
Completely to by "blacklisted" are the tortellini with meat
sauce, because, being already filled with meat, the stuffing
may come into conflict with the sauce at the risk of being
outclassed.
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May-June 2012 CIBO
10 11
Giuseppe, Franco e Lino Rossi with their Tortellini
The Carracci and chef Galeazzo
and their Tortellini
One laughable way to offer tortellini is in the broth of
beans (the so-called "rich and poor") or even with straw-
berries. Even if the soul of the cuisine is the ongoing revi-
sion of food, these are just fads designed to leave no trace.
Fortunately.
But who invented the tortellini? It 'a dispute that has not
sterile raison to exist, but do not have an answer. Tortellini
were born in Emilia where there has always been plentiful
supply of beef (for broth) as well as pork and good parme-
san cheese for the filling. Then every city has interpreted
the filling in their own way, giving rise to a grea variants of
magnificent preparations.
La Bottega, the lab of Elisabetta Martelli
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May-June 2012
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12
Click for
more info.
Tortellini in Broth
The Traditional Recipe Of The Authentic
TORTELLINO BOLOGNESE
The " Learned Brotherhood of Tortellino " and the Bologna
Delegation of the Italian Academy of Cuisine", on
December 7, 1974 filed with the Chamber of Commerce to
the authentic, traditional recipe to prepare tortellini. Here
it is:
Serves 4
3.5 oz. Loin of pork,
3.5 oz. Ham,
3,5. Vera mortadella from Bologna,
5 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, (The dose of 5 oz.of
Parmigiano Reggiano cheese is valid if the cheese has
matured for at least three years. If the cheese is ripened less
the dose may be increased.)
1 hen's egg
Dash of nutmeg.
It must be very careful. The loin should be kept at rest for
two days over a mixture of salt, pepper, then it must be
cooked at slowly with a little 'of butter and then removed
from the pan.
Finally, possibly with battilardo, the loin is minced very
finely together with ham and sausage and mixed with
Parmesan cheese and eggs and a dash of nutmeg.
The dough must be mixed for a long time until that is well
amalgamated and let it rest for at least twenty-four hours.
The goodness of the filling depends on the quality of raw
materials that are used.
Juicy Medium-Bodied Red.
For the Best Tortellini
in Bologna
Diana
www.ristorantedian-
abologna.com
Biagi all'Osteria della
Lanterna
www.ristorantebiagi.it
Ristorante Franco Rossi
www.ristorantefrancorossi.it
Ristorante I Carracci
www.grandhotelmajestic.
duetorrihotels.com
Osteria Bottega
Tel. +39 051/585111
Ristorante Donatello
www.ristorantedonatello.it
Drogheria della Rosa
www.drogheriadellarosa.it
Antica Trattoria La
Grotta
www.lagrotta1918.it
La Bottega
www.inpasta.it
Salumeria Simoni
Bologna
www.salumeriasimoni.it
For their very interesting
stories and info
please click here
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14
When I was growing up, wine was
always on our table and wine
glasses were only used when com-
pany came over. Like many
Italians, my father preferred drink-
ing his wine in a water glass and
my Italian relatives choose the
same type of glass for their wine
consumption. Its the casual tratto-
ria approach.
While quaint and rustic, those
glasses are not ideal for wines.
Presentation, in food or drink, is
part of the enjoyment and the cor-
rect glass enhances the appear-
ance and bouquet of a beverage.
While colored glasses are very
pretty, they are not ideal for wine
and are best used in other ways.
So what is the best wine glass?
The Riedel family has been produc-
ing glassware since the 18th Century and they have con-
tributed immensely to the evolution of the wine glass. Claus
Josef Riedel was the first to develop wine friendly
stemware. Todays clear, unadorned long-stemmed glasses
were his vision. Prior to that, wine glasses were common-
ly made of cut, colored glass. He recognized that the bou-
quet, taste, balance and finish of wine were affect-
ed by the shape of the glass and a clear glass
allowed you to properly examine the color of the
wine. His son Georg Josef Riedel took it one step
further and developed varietal specific wine glass-
es. Every grape variety has its own specific glass shape.
The shape and size of a glass helps to direct the wine to hit
specific points on your tongue. For example, a highly tan-
nic red wine with moderate acidity and a full-bodied white
wine also with moderate acidity benefit from a glass which
directs the wine to the centre of the tongue. In contrast, red
wine that is of higher acidity and moderate tannins or a
highly acidic white wine is best served in a glass that
allows the wine to hit the tip of the tongue first. This action
GLASSWARE EXPLAINED
By Marta Chiavacci
15
Wine
On
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May-June 2012
Marta Chiavacci
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highlights the fruit component of the wine and balances out
the high acidity. The other important factor in a wine glass
is the rim. A cut rim is preferred to a rolled rim because it
allows the wine to flow smoothly onto the tongue.
When wine is poured it immediately begins to evaporate
and the aromas fill the glass in layers based on their densi-
ty and specific gravity. By using this concept, glassware
can be created to enhance the typical aromas of a grape
varietal. The shape of the glass influences how you drink by
forcing you to position your head in such a way that when
the liquid flows it will hit specific taste zones of your palate.
Glasses are an extension of the wine and should enhance
its qualities not its faults. Most of us dont have the budget
or the room to store wine glasses for every type of wine we
drink. As a general rule of thumb, red wine in large glass-
es, white wine in medium size glasses, champagne flutes for
champagne and small glasses for spirits. The small glass
helps emphasize the fruit character by minimizing the alco-
hol impact. Never overfill a glass. Allow room for the aro-
mas to gather. The recommended serving size for red wine
is 4-5 oz, white wine 3 oz and spirits 1 oz.
A few years ago there was a trend toward wine glasses
without stems. I personally am not a fan. You should never
hold your glass by the bowl as you end up warming up your
wine and changing its service temperature. Those do make
lovely water glasses though. You should also never top up
a wine glass. It is best to finish a glass of wine completely
before refilling it. By adding new wine to wine that is
already in the glass you are inadvertently creating a blend.
For example, if you are serving a chilled wine, the wine in
the glass is a different temperature than the one in the bot-
tle. The new combination will result in a glass of wine that
is not the ideal temperature. For a red, what is in the glass
has opened and is different than what is in the bottle.
Admittedly, the differences are small but now that youve
gone to all the trouble to find the perfect wine glass, might
as well enjoy the perfect glass of wine.
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Marta
Chiavacci
May-June 2012
17
HOT PEPPER PREP
Cleaning and preparing hot peppers can often be a diffi-
cult and sometimes even dangerous job. Weve taken the
guesswork out of handling peppers safely.
1. The hot pepper exists in many varieties
around the world, from the poblano to the
peperoncino. Safely handling hot peppers can
be tricky sometimes, but with the proper precautions, you
can savor their zesty spice without any problems. In fact,
dicing hot peppers can be as easy as 1,2,3. First, cut the
pepper in half lengthwise, and remove the stem and seeds.
Next, carefully slice it
into long thin strips,
julienne-style. Finally,
turn the julienned
strips so that they lay
vertically in front of
you. Carefully use
your knife to mince
the julienned strips.
When handling any hot
pepper, one should wear
gloves or be extra careful
and avoid touching your
face (especially around your eyes.)
2. Dicing hot peppers can be a true test of your capabili-
ties in the kitchen, but a fine dice is easy to achieve if you
remember a few key rules: 1) Always use a sharp knife. 2)
Grouping together the julienned slices of pepper allows
you to get a better grip without worrying about losing any
of the pepper. 3) By keeping the blade straight as you cut,
you are more likely to create a uniform dice. 4) This rule is
the simplest and most importan: always keep your finger-
tips slightly curled under and use your knuckles as a guide
for the blade, this will help you avoid any injuries.
Tidbits
1
2
May-June 2012
19
A NATURAL CAR RACER WHO
BECAME A BARBER
Interview with Frank Scala
By Paolo Villoresi
I have been getting my hair done at
Franks, a Sicilian barber who has
permanently settled in the US, for
more than twenty years. His shop,
which he calls barberia, is full of sou-
venir photos and trophies and is locat-
ed at the mezzanine of a Fifth Avenue
building. Many family photos are dis-
played in his shop, but most of them
depict Frank with sports cars. He had
often mentioned his love for cars
while we chatted, but I never took him
too seriously until a few weeks ago
when I saw a picture of him taken
with Porsches owner!
Frank, but then you really meant it! I then said.
I have always been serious about racing since I was doing
obstacle races with my motorcycle. He replied.
And where did you do it?
In Sicily, in Porto Empedocle, at my
house!
I thought that you had been here for gen-
erations, but no, you were born in Italy
and have lived there and maybe you've also served in the
Italian army?
Yes, sir! I served in the Navy for three years and for two
years I was on board of the Amerigo Vespucci!
You had two years of cruising and what a cruise! Sail cruis-
es, right?
Two wonderful years around the world and then I came to
America.
Frank dont cut my hair too long or you will want to put hair
spray later to hide the flaws.
No, dont worry, Im being careful about it!
Frank, lets start all over again: you were living near
Agrigento, you went to school, you were a barber and you
made obstacle races with your motorcycle, is that right?
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Abroad
Another Italian
Frank Scala and his wife Melanie
Scala 1
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Italy, but I go back every year and I still have relatives and
friends in there.
Have you brought your daughter to the car races?
Yes, Daniela has come many times, but now she is grown-
up and has a child of her own.
And what did you start doing here in America?
The barber and car races. You know that I once bought a
Corvette here and raced it in Italy? I did the Monte
Pellegrino again and I it was a great success.
Frank, I had Corvette '73 and drove it for most of my honey-
moon on Sardinian roads. It was without power steering, but
I enjoyed it very much. I used it a couple of years, then I sent
back to America because it cost as much as a Rolls Royce!
And how did it go with the Monte San Pellegrino Race?
It was not the right kind of car for those roads, but it kept
the road well and the engine was very powerful. After the
race everyone wanted to buy it, but I brought it back to
May-June 2012
21
Motorcycle obstacle races were actually my great love, I
often won and I was getting more and more into them!
And cars?
Those came after motorcycles: I started with a car of my
own and then slowly continued to road racing. I also ran
the Monte Pellegrino car race!
But Frank, I said, those were professional car races! Also
my cousin Gigi Villoresi and Taruffi ran those and ...
I was there!
And with which car were you running?
With the Dino Fiat-Ferrari!
With the Dino Fiat-Ferrari?
Yes, precisely that one: it was quite a car. Have you ever
tried it? I actually bought a second hand one and I used it
for almost three years. It was a car with an exceptional
power, it literally glued to the road, great car!
You were road racing with nice cars and you were a bar-
ber and then you left Italy for America, but why?
Because most of my family was here and I was alone in
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Frank with Mr.Porshe at the end of a race
Frank & Melanie with a Trophy
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here in Manhattan.
I am bringing all of my women to Sicily this year, also my
niece is coming. She is a good musician and plays the vio-
lin and the flute.
And does obstacle races with her scooter!
No, she is a good baseball player!!!
So Frank, you really had fun and earned quite a lot of
money with cars?
No, not money, just trophies. I gave all the money away to
charity!
You are really a great athlete, Frank!
May-June 2012
23
America and then sold it to buy my first Porsche. Since then
I only race with Porsches. See, in this picture I am with Mr.
Porsche at the end of a race. I am a member of the New
York Porsche Club.
But have you retired? You dont race anymore?
Yes and no! I bought my last Porsche is in'93, but it is still
in perfect condition in my garage and I take part in a few
rallies from time to time. I've raced for many years in most
of Americas major cities, in California, in the Midwest,
Washington and also in Long Island. It is ok like this or shall
I cut them a bit shorter?
Ok, just a little shorter though! Frank do you also some-
times race on the track?
Yes, rallies, track races and vintage car shows. I won many
first, second and third prizes and I did the Overall Trophy
five years ago. But now it is enough. I bought a house at
the beach and I cant leave my wife alone at home.
And what does your wife do?
She was an actress and was often the stand-in for Mia
Farrow, but now she has retired and teaches at a college
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22
Frank with macho cigar!
Frank with daughter Daniela and granddaughter Denita
Riccardo
Jacopino
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May-June 2012
25
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MY FIRST STEPS IN COOKERY
By Sebastiano Accaputo
Particularly hilarious was his memory
about the English soldiers after the
landing in 1943. He was telling that
those guys did not take care of the
warnings because they used to drink,
but invariably they came drunk to the
ground.
I wrote about our piece of land. That
particular countryside, not even really
big, had an important role in the first
thirty years of my life. Another product
of that land were the olives. In the plain,
people start to harvest in October. We
had not many olive trees but they were
massive, tens of years old.
We were producing the oil for our family and during the
so called annata ri carrica, (literally loaded year), we
were even able to give some to our closest friends. Loaded
years because the olive trees as well as the pistachio trees,
alternate years of good and poor harvest.
I have a very clear memory about a harvesting campaign
with grandpa Sebastiano. Grandpa was a man hardbitten
by two wars, by suffering and by the bad times he went
through. I remember as it happened only yesterday that he
was pushing me to pick up the olives on the ground, all of
them, even the withered ones. He learned how important it
was to not leave anything behind, not to waste anything.
To the harvesting of the olives we used to lay out heavy
sheet, and then we were knocking down the olive trees.
My dad and grandpa were working with the so called
furcuni, a chestnut pole, flexible, 10-12 feet tall. The chil-
dren were allowed to use only reeds, lighter and cheaper.
With my today awareness I understand that it must not
have been a great olive oil; the olives from the ground and
the knocking down harvesting way, must have given to it a
very high acidity. The olive oil was not the only product, of
course. The best olives were worked and preserved in sev-
eral ways. Aulivi scacciati (crushed olives), aulivi pun-
ciuti (pricked olives), aulivi cunzati (seasoned olives),
aulivi salati (salted olives), are only some of the most
The smiling beautiful family on vacation
Sebastiano Accaputo
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May-June 2012
27
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common way they were prepared.
The properly prepared olives were stored in
hand painted earthen holder, the so called gia-
rre (anphoras), the small size of the famous
Giara that Pirandello, a Sicilian Nobel Prize for
Literature, described in a novel.
The olives pressing was always a moment that
caught my attention and curiosity. There was some-
thing magical in seeing the olives coming in one
side and the olive oil coming from another one.
The olives, defoliated and washed, were crushed
and the resulting paste was placed on the so
called "coffe", disks of canvas, with a hole in the
middle, that were piled up on top of one another
and pressed. The most fascinating and interesting
tool was anyway the centrifuge. It was made of a
sequence of steel cones, high speed rotating; the
water was coming out from one side and the oil
from the other as magic. Only years later I learned
what emulsion and specific weight means.
Another typical product were the almonds, the
fine Almonds of Avola, today recognized as PGS
(Protected Geographical Status). The harvesting of
the almonds was typically during summertime.
Actually not the best period of the year to work
outdoor in Sicily.
To avoid the summer heat we used to start work-
ing at dawn, with the coolness. We were knocking down
the almonds the same way as the olives and as with the
olives, we were picking up the almonds that fell out of the
sheets. We used to put the almonds in the so called can-
nisciu, a basket with a handle on top, made of interwov-
en thin limbs and reeds.
At that time we were already relocated from Avola to
Siracusa, and the land was this way more distant, around
40 miles. We used to leave home around 4am. We were
driving a Volkswagen minivan, one of those that made the
history of car industry.
Getting back to my culinary background, the real training
was during the years spent in Catania, for my University
degree in Biology. During those years I compared different
flavours and recipes. They were different from those I was
used to. Those were light-hearted years, cheerfully lived.
I shared a flat with other five friends, the same for five
following years. We used to alternate in cooking,
preparing for all of us. I was experimenting without
any fear of making mistakes, even though my
friends feedbacks were straightforward ad some-
time definitely colourful.
Another important stage in my culinary journey
were the years spent working as a Medical Rep for
pharmaceutical companies, both in North and
South of Italy. During those years I learned the dif-
ference between the haute cuisine and the ordinary
one, between an outstanding dish and a poor one.
In Piedmont I experienced risotti (memorable was
risotto with frogs that is made in Sartirana, in the
Lomellina area, in the province of Pavia), the
soups, the bagna cauda, the goose salami, the
salamelle, small salami preserved covered with
lard and served with "polenta taragna", the stewed
donkey, the braised meat au Barbera wine, the
Alba white truffle, and the Offelle from Parona.
When I was working in Sicily I used to move up
and down the East coast of the island. It is really
hard to remember all the places where I had a
lunch but I can for sure to quote someone memo-
rable that I particularly enjoyed for its quality:
Ristorante del Duomo in Ragusa Ibla, the Fattoria
delle Torri in Modica, Don Camillo restaurant in
Siracusa, Sicilia in Bocca restaurant in Catania, the
Covo restaurant in Aci Castello, just to report some of them.
The dishes were obviously those of the typical Sicilian tra-
dition. A lot of fish placed in a display to be chosen, my
favourite, if fresh were sea basses, to be roasted or
cooked al cartoccio (in a foil paper). Then sea food,
above all mussels to be prepared scoppiate (literally
bursted) or au gratin, and following season lampuchi
(dolphinfish) or tunnina, slices of fresh tuna to be pre-
pared roasted or a cipuddata (with onion).
I am presently living in London, a city that I love a lot, cul-
turally alive, where a wide mix of different races and differ-
ent culture live together, as only it is possible in the big cities.
From a culinary point of view, London is a metropolis full
of contradictions, where the traditional cookery is quite
missing. You can move through fast food chains, to restau-
rants for tourists, until lot of Michelin star restaurants, for the
delight of the most demanding customers.
Giulia eating spaghetti with black of cutlefish
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May-June 2012
29
I wanted to collect the most popular recipes of my home
country to allow anybody to feel the excitement and the joy
that a good homemade dish could give. In the meantime I
also tried to pass on some cultural and historical informa-
tion in order to let people to understand the very ancient
roots from where all of this originates.
Pasta with anchovies and breadcrumbs
Pasta cca muddica
Breadcrumbs were often used, toasted, in Sicily as substi-
tute for grated cheese by those who could not afford even
this basic ingredient: some was used to call toasted bread-
crumbs the "poor man's Caciocavallo".
Serves 4
1 lb pasta,
8 salted anchovies boned,
1 tbsp tomato puree,
2 tbsp capers,
7 oz toasted breadcrumbs,
1 garlic clove,
chopped parsley, olive oil, salt, pepper
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Pasta with anchovies and
breadcrumbs
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May-June 2012
31
Toast the breadcrumbs (preferably in an iron skillet) stir-
ring continuously. Before they turn brown, add a little oil
and mix until the oil starts to sizzle and the breadcrumbs
turn a nice golden colour.
Separately heat some oil in a frying pan with the garlic,
remove from heat and add the anchovies, mashing with a
fork until they achieve a creamy consistency.
Add the tomato puree and capers and stir over moderate
heat for a few minutes. Remove from heat and add the
chopped parsley and a pinch of pepper.
Boil the pasta in a large pan of salted water, drain, and
cover with the anchovies sauce. Sprinkle with the toasted
breadcrumbs and serve immediately.
Generous Full-Bodied White
Rabbit with vinegar and mint
Cunigghiu a stimpirata
This dish is not difficult but will take a bit of time to pre-
pare. It is worth doing it, however, as it is delicious.
Serves 4
1 Rabbit
2 lbs approximately,
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Rabbit with vinegar
and mint
cup olive oil,
cup white wine,
2 big potatoes,
carrots,
olives (both green and black),
1 onion,
celery, basil, parsley,garlic, dry tomatoes, mint,
capers, salt, vinegar
Put the cut rabbit in a non-sticking pan without oil and let
it brown on a very low heat and allow the liquid to drain
from the meat. When there is no more water add a bit of
olive oil and salt and let it brown for a few more minutes.
Add half cup of white wine and maintain on the hob until
fully cooked. Fry the potatoes and pull them apart taking
care to dry them of the oil.
In a saucepan put half cup of olive oil, chopped onion,
celery, carrots, garlic and fry on a low heat. At the halfway
point, add olives, capers, mint (important ingredient), basil
and chopped dry tomato. Add the rabbit and keep on the
heat adding a bit of olive oil. Add the potatoes and anoth-
er bit of mint. Add the vinegar at the end, cover the
saucepan, switch off the heat and let it cool down. It is pos-
sible to serve the dish hot or cold.
Generous Full-Bodied Red
Copyright 2011 Sebastiano Accaputo
www.101sicilianrecipes.com 127
Sebastiano
Accaputo
Laura
Fantini
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May-June 2012
33 32
Cibo
THE NEW LOOK OF THE COURTYARD
By Paolo Villoresi
After we were done transforming the Villa from a private
home to a hotel, my father wanted to restore the courtyard
to its original beauty. He was seriously ill and knew it, so
the workers were determined to get down to work right
away. We had to start by replacing the stones pavement,
which was cracked and lifeless after so many years. We
then had to remove all of the build-up from the walls, which
had been patched up in different ways for centuries to keep
up appearances. The courtyards ancient water well need-
ed to be repaired and we had to supply it with an ade-
quate cover. Lastly, the cellar entrance, which was also truly
ancient, needed to be put in order. While this was all being
done, the workers found several different archaeological
artifacts, including a Roman statue and an oil cruet. We
placed these artifacts along with the many other things that
had been collected over the years in a glass display case
inside the Villa.
A team of stonecutters, with their different sized hammers
and chisels, performed a true concert for a few days. Then,
it was time to take care of the
walls. Redoing all of the walls
in white plaster starting from
the ground to the guards walk-
way and up to the top of the
towers base, the tower had been cut off in 1232 was
both very demanding and spectacular. It could only be
done by hand using a trowel, and only by specialized
workers who, besides knowing what they were doing,
were conscious of the importance of what they were
achieving.
They used white plaster and not standard mortar in order
to maintain the sparkling white walls visual effect while
making them stronger and longer lasting. The project pro-
gressed steadily thanks to the workers and their extraordi-
nary ability. The courtyard was unfurling progressively like
a giant, radiant, moonlit smile even if the work that they
were doing was tiring and uncomfortable.
It was soon finished and the courtyard reclaimed its orig-
inal beauty which had not been revealed since the 14th
century when it had been restructured to create the music
Your Plate
A Story in
The ancient well of
the courtjard
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35
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34
room. This room in turn had been given beautiful domed
vaults during the 18th century. The courtyard did not have
an ostentatious appearance, quite the contrary: it was
beautiful and solemn in its simplicity.
The water well, where I remember lowering myself a thou-
sand times to repair the water pump valve, was restored,
closed with a grey metal lid and anchored on the local
stone called pietra serena. The medieval buckets were hung
by the well and looked solemn and dignified like upside
down helmets.
Despite my fathers condition, nothing was postponed
and even an inauguration party was organized hoping that
he would be able to attend, but it was not possible. My
A guest of the Villa enjoys the concert from the terrace of her bedroom
father had wanted to unveil the courtyard with music, so a
quintet of musicians from Florence was booked for the per-
formance.
Then it was a matter of suitably furnishing the courtyard
so that over 100 people could be seated there. The chairs
style presented a space problem, but Florences Director of
Fine Arts came to meet us and lent us the folding chairs that
had been used in Pitti Palace for the concerts in Boboli
Gardens. They were simple folding chairs made with iron
and fabric, much like directors chairs, but with bronze
knobs at the arms and shoulders. The fabric was a regal
shade of red and they seemed quite elegant and presti-
gious.
The same glass lamps that had illuminated the streets of
Florence in 1200 hung from the walls of the courtyard,
flooded with light, and I perched myself on a stool at one
May-June 2012
The Polyphonic Vocal Quintet under the arch of the courtyard
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of the windows overlooking the courtyard to take pictures.
It was like a scene from the Middle Ages; musicians that
enlivened the Lords evenings, Lords who acted as specta-
tors along with their guests and the other inhabitants of the
castle that watched from the windows. My tiny little camera
(actually a spy camera) took very bad pictures technically
speaking, but I didnt throw them away because I felt that
that they supplied the evenings appropriate dream-like
atmosphere with their strange lights and shadows. The five
musicians were wonderful, performing with aplomb and
ornamenting the ancient melodies with skill. My father was
not there, but he was with each one of us in spirit as I am
sure that he was in the thoughts of many of the guests who
were aware of his terminal illness. We were all honored to
have been able to experience this eventan evening that
seemed to come from 700 years before in all its simplicity
and splendor.
The joy of having lived such a unique and unforeseen
experience to have been part of a dream was dis-
played in everyones eyes and everybody was happy.
As in ancient times, salads a were served after the concert.
Etruscan mixed salad
Pecorino alletrusca
Serves 6
1 head boston bibb lettuce
5 spring onions, sliced thin
2/3 bunch mint leaves, sliced thin
3 red roses, petals only
Juice of 1/2 lemon
2 oranges, peeled and thinly sliced
5 tablespoons raisins, soaked in white wine
Salt and pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil
Combine the lettuce, onions, mint leaves, rose petals,
lemon juice, oranges, and raisins. Season with salt and
pepper, then toss well with the olive oil. Serve at room tem-
perature to start the meal.
Generous Full-Bodied Red
For more recipes click here.
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May-June 2012
The courtyard ready for the concert
37
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THE DECISIVE MOMENT
By Jeanne Newman
Henri Cartier-Bresson,
considered to be the
father of modern pho-
tojournalism and a
founder of Magnum
Photos, was once
quoted as saying Of
course its all luck!
when referring to his
perfectly composed
captures. He used the
phrase and concept of
the decisive moment
to describe his photo-
graphic reportage: the
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Jeanne Newman
39
Art
On
May-June 2012
Whether it's the peculiar "architecture" and grace of the
pelican before and after diving for his dinner........
Jeanne Newman
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41 40
precise moment when the design and exposure and aes-
thetic of the image is perfect within the scope of the cam-
eras view finder. The magic of that instant is hardly hap-
penstance; the created image required long and thoughtful
observation to become a fully resolved piece. Caution was
hardly cast to the wind despite Cartier-Bressons quotation.
Luck truly has little to do with it.
Cartier-Bressons academic, theoretical and studied
approach, for me, was very influential, if for no other rea-
son than to make me acutely aware of what I was looking
at, what I was waiting for, how I learned to size up a
moment in time. For many years, the idea of the decisive
moment helped define my students as careful, thoughtful
May-June 2012
or the absolute fear in the face of a brand new groom........
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42 43
photographers whose images sang true as evocative pho-
tographs.
The photographs I chose are images where I made those
conscious choices of waiting and watching to shoot at that
precise moment in time. There is no particular rhyme or rea-
son to their selection, other than the common thread that
binds them: the decisive moment when the shutter clicks.
Whether it's the peculiar "architecture" and grace of the
pelican before and after diving for his dinner or the seem-
ingly vacuous stare of a woman oblivious to the flurry of a
dozen little dancers flying by her to claim their place
onstage, or the absolute fear in the face of a brand new
groom, the message is still the same: the window of photo-
graphic opportunity is very fleeting.
Jeanne Newman
The Well Dressed Snaphot
May-June 2012
the seemingly vacuous stare of a woman oblivious to the flurry of a
dozen little dancers flying by her to claim their place onstage.......
Cultura e Cultura
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45
ROBERT SCHUMANN
VISIONS AND
MADNESS
By Cristiana Pegoraro
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44
Click Here
Music-Schumann- 05 Sonata 2(G)
Music
On
Cristiana at the Piano
May-June 2012
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Cristiana always explains the
music she is about to play
47
Cristiana is working on a series of performances centered
on Schumann, and she would like to share a few insights on
the unique and exceptional life of this great composer. She
also sent us a recording of a piano piece, which she inter-
preted masterfully. As much as I love music, I am not an
expert; but I believe that if you listen to Cristiana playing the
piano, while you start reading about Schumann's life, it will
be of great help; it sure has been for me!
Robert Alexander Schumann was born in Zwickau, near
Leipzig, in Saxony, on June 8, 1810. He was the youngest
of six children. At age 7 he started studying music; at 8 he
composed some dance pieces; when he was 9 he heard a
concert played by Ignaz Moscheles, among the greatest
piano virtuosos of the time, and he felt so touched that he
decided to become a concert artist himself.
At first, things didn't work out too brilliantly, because his
town's musical scene wasn't that galvanizing. In March
1828, by now a student at the University of Leipzig,
Robert rented a piano and immersed himself in the city's
rich musical life, which revolved around the Gewandhaus,
to this day one of the most prestigious concert halls in
Europe. He also met a great piano teacher, Friedrich
Wieck. He moved in Wieck's house and began taking les-
sons. Schumann started studying very seriously, but he
soon realized that the index and middle fingers of his right
hand were a lot weaker and less flexible than his other fin-
gers. He tried, somehow, to solve the problem, but to no
avail; he realized that he had to give up the virtuoso
career. But Schumann knew how to write pieces for piano,
and he was good at it.
For Schumann words and music are two aspects of the
same thing. He gives us an example with his Papillons
Op.2. The Papillons (twelve music miniatures) are a musi-
cal transcription of the final chapter (the masquerade) of a
novel by Jean Paul Richter. The story ends with a ball.
Everybody leaves the ballroom when the bell tower clock
strikes six. During the final miniature, the enchantment of
the ball fading away at the sound of the six strikes can be
clearly perceived. No other composer has ever attempted
a fusion of sound and literary ideas the way he did.
Schumann also started writing reviews of concerts and
new events for the Allgemeine Musikalische Zeitung and for
the Komet. In one of his first such reviews, in 1831, he
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May-June 2012
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Thanking for the never ending applauses!
May-June 2012
49
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48
brought Chopin to the attention of the German readers by
famously writing Hats off, gentlemen, this is a genius.
In 1834 he founded the magazine Neue Zeitschrift fr
Musik (New Magazine of Music), of which he also became
editor. Never had a publication such as this been seen
before; and never again was there going to be any like it.
Since he started, Schumann found his place among the
very few critics who shape the history of culture. He did this
by signing either with his own name or as Eusebius or
Florestan, his imaginary companions: Eusebius embodied
the dreamy side of his personality, whereas Florestan was
the man of action, the conqueror. We often find these two
characters also in his music, sometimes as part of the title,
sometimes in the signature at foot of the compositions.
Schumann kept a lifelong rich imagination, a fundamental
feature of his creativity.
In 1835 Schumann and Clara kissed for the first time.
Clara was the daughter of his piano teacher, and she was
destined to become the greatest German female pianist in
the world. Clara was 16, Schumann 25.
When Schumann, well intentioned, asked for her father's
consent to marry her, he was kicked out, and Clara was
sent to Dresden to study composition. Wieck ordered Clara
to return all the letters as well as the Sonata Op.11, which
Schumann had dedicated to her. Throughout 1836 the
father took Clara on a tour that touched several towns, but
trying to stay in Leipzig for the shortest time possible, and
he actually succeeded in cutting all connections between
his treasured daughter and the admirer that was trying to
take her away.
At the end of 1838 Schumann decided to take his
chances with a new challenge: conquering the music world
of Vienna, the city of Mozart, Beethoven and Schubert.
Had he succeeded in that great capital city of music,
Wieck would have found no excuses to deny him his
daughter.
The Viennese people turned out to be quite superficial,
mostly in love with Rossini and Italian opera, and Robert
felt deeply disappointed; nonetheless, in Vienna Schumann
found the inspiration that allowed him to compose an
astonishing number of masterpieces, infused with serene
and affable playfulness, such as, in particular, the Carnival
in Vienna op. 26 Carnival Jest from Vienna op. 26 that mir-
rors, happily and disenchantingly, that cheerful lightness of
Vienna's musical world.
In 1839 Wieck was no less nasty to Schumann, while
Clara was enjoying great success, and the papers were
even comparing her to Paganini. But she did not give up on
her dear Robert and in April of 1839 she sued her father
for having attempted to keep all her earnings for himself
and to cut her off his will, in order to discourage her from
continuing seeing Schumann.
In court Wieck stated that Schumann was unable to earn
his living, that he squandered his inheritance, that he failed
as editor, and that he was a mediocre composer whose
music was obscure and all but impossible to play; and also
that he was lazy, unreliable, vain and a drunkard.
Schumann submitted police reports, asked for witnesses
who could speak well of him to be subpoenaed
(Mendelssohn also among them), explained the magazine's
financial situationproduced his degree from the university
of Jena, and declared that among his usual tavern com-
panions was none other than the plaintiff himself, Wieck,
whom he then, in turn, sued for defamation. The old man
lost the case, lost face, and was even sentenced to 18 days
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in making the music of his contemporaries known, by
directing such music in concert, or writing about it in his
articles.
In July of 1852 he suffered a serious attack of what Clara
called a nervous convulsion. The doctor who treated him
suggested that Schumann's work schedule should be
reduced and that his assistant should take over most of the
workload.
On August 3 Schumann suffered a relapse. At this point
his nervous condition was foreshadowing more serious ill-
nesses. At the beginning of 1854, practically deprived of
his contractual appointments, Schumann started having
nerve-wracking guilty feelings and being subject to halluci-
nations. He was hearing imaginary music and seeing
angels, who came to comfort him, or devils in the form of
tigers and hyenas, that would threaten him.
On February 26, 1854, he asked to be hospitalized; on
the 27, toward the end of a rainy day, he walked out half
undressed and jumped in the Rhine River. He was rescued
by some boatmen and taken back home. On March 4 he
was taken to Endenich, near Bonn, in an institution for the
mentally ill, where he died on July 29, 1856, at the age of
46.
This man would later be celebrated as one of the most
brilliant composers of all time. Audacity and originality are
fundamental qualities of his music. Robert Schumann, ultra-
romantic, is the most personal and least objective among
the great composers. As a musician he achieved a perfect
fusion of form and content, of modernity and extrava-
gance; he is unquestionably a major figure in the history of
a century that continues to surprise us.
For more information on the projects discussed in this arti-
cle, please visit the website: www.narniaartsacademy.com
Cristiana Pegoraro is Narnia Arts
Academys Artistic Director.
May-June 2012
51
in jail for defamation.
On September 12, 1840, only one day before turning
21, Clara Wieck became Mrs. Schumann, and Robert,
who until then had only written music for the piano, started
writing lieder for solo voice and piano: he wrote as many
as 127. Schumann's lieder mirror all his tastefulness, imag-
ination and musical refinement.
Following this volcanic eruption of lieder, Schumann
explored all genres: all kinds of chamber music, sym-
phonies and other works for orchestra, and a diverse range
of vocal music, including one opera. The years of his mar-
riage were, by far, his most prolific. And in less than 14
years of married life his wife gave birth to 8 children; very
prolific years indeed, in all aspects. Schumann will prove
himself a very loving father: Children are the greatest
blessing. There can never be too many.
He was the first major composer to encompass the chil-
dren's universe as musical theme: he wrote pieces for
adults as if he were seeing the world through a child's
eyes. The Scenes From Childhood Op.15 provide an
example: 13 short pages that are worlds apart from the
sparkling virtuosity of earlier works.
Schumann's marriage to a widely successful piano play-
er made him aspire to a more prestigious job than that of
music critic, and in 1843 he took the position as piano
teacher at the Leipzig conservatory founded by
Mendelssohn.
In fall of 1844 the Schumanns decided to move to
Dresden where, however, Schumann felt quite unhappy.
The city was much larger than Leipzig and music revolved
around the court theater where the co-director was Richard
Wagner, for whom Clara immediately felt an aversion,
finding him arrogant. In the four and a half years that
Schumann spent in Dresden, he continued suffering from
recurring physical and mental ailments that had been both-
ering him since earlier. He was very depressed and was
being treated by two doctors, a psychiatrist and a hypno-
tist. But against all odds, it was in Dresden that his pro-
ductivity reached its peak.
In November of 1849 Schumann was appointed director
of the Dsseldorf orchestra. Following some early success,
professional problems started happening, mainly due to the
mostly unusual orchestral repertory choices he was making.
Let's not forget that Schumann played a very important role
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Cristiana Pegoraro
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53 52
Elia Fiorillo
Italy
Beautiful
Building teling a story
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SAN PAOLO BRAZIL A FRENETIC CITY
By Elia Fiorillo
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Someone like myself, who has lived in Naples for a long
time, should better than others identify with the multi color fre-
netic San Paolo of Brazil: the area of Naples where I worked
for a good number of years is certainly a very quiet one!
I am referring to the quarter of Forcella where anything
could of happened, at least up to a few years ago. There
was not the possibility to come across anything normal or
monotonous.
Anyway, despite being used to the daily chaos of Naples
and the impromptu of life and summation of colors that
become dazzling white to the point to make your head spin
, I confess that here in San Paolo, Im lost.
Maybe because its the largest city of Brazil with 6331
SQ miles 10.190 and a resident population of 23 million
people, fact has it that these numbers are among the most
relevant urban areas of the world.
Maybe its because you pass suddenly between the nar-
row aisles of stores where you can find anything and every-
thing to the immeasurable
spaces where atypical
and often isolated sky-
scrapers feel like dis-
mayed guards all looking
at the Babel below.
One goes from the
details the enormous and
again to the tiny small
often worth to be
explored.
Its like this for all things
from junk to very refined
stuff.
You can taste the food
to go in the characteristic
Municipal Market Di San
Paolo where a multiethnic
humanity hungry and
always happy, contends
to get a chair or a table
on the never ending
gallery. In the market,
built in 2004, by architect
Peter Paul Saraiva de
Mello, stands of food and
55
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A Salad bar
May-June 2012
Modern Art Museum
drinks sellers are every think one tight to the other .
A splendid building built in eclectic style approximately
28 /33s is still functional: fruits, vegetables, cereals,
meats, spices and other food products. A crowded meeting
place for local and non local people.
I hade my time to conquest a place at a stand selling
bread and codfish. Maybe it was becaus I was hungry or
because of the permanently joious atmosphere of eternal
party, but, altho the fish was certainly not fried with good
Italian olive oil, I found fried batter of bread stuffed with
codfish simply excellent .
Going around San Paolo comes to my mid the great
Neopolitano Philosopher, Benedetto Croce when he
54
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artists and Brazilian movement. In the mid 90s the
Pinacoteca was renovated by the famed architect Paolo
Mendes de Rocha who transformed the neo-classic struc-
ture to a structure full of light and space combined togeth-
er to produce a elation of colors and tones of Brazilian art.
Another very significant monument is The Art Museum of
Sao Paulo founded in 1949 none other than the Italian art
journalist and critic Pietro Maria Bardi who was the muse-
ums curator for 45 years.
Many different works of art of great Italian artists are dis-
play including Bellini, Mantegna, Botticelli, Raffaello and
Tiziano, Tintoretto. I was very surprised to find three exhi-
bitions all of Italian art, from Giorgio De Chirico, to
Imperial Rome and the collection of photos of the Pirelli cal-
endars.
And the tolles building of San Paolo is called ITALIA and
it is one of the best observation points of metropolis.
The construction rises in the center of the city just south, of
57
defined Neapolitans as devils in good and in bad.
Outstanding individuals or crook, but still devils. Even here
there are no half-tints. And in a city so complex you can
find one of the most important art museums in Brazil, and
more. In the gallery do Estado de Sao Paulo you come
across an impressive collection of Brazilian art, mainly
from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. There are over
5000 paintings and sculptures representing all the major
artists and movements in Brazil. In the mid-nineties the pic-
ture gallery was renovated by renowned architect Paolo
Mendes da Rocha, who transformed the building into a
neoclassical structure full of light and space to produce a
combined effect of exaltation of colors and shades of
Brazilian art. No less significant is the Art Museum of Sao
Paulo was founded in 1949, inter alia, by the journalist
and art critic Italian Pietro Maria Bardi for 45 years he was
its curator.
than this in the Pinacoteca do Estado di San Paolo you
come across an impressionable collection of Brazilian art
mainly of the 19th and 20th century there are over 5000
paintings and sculptures which represent all the major
56
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Street stand
At the Railway Station
May-June 2012
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59
Very Modern Art
A view of the city
there is everything and more. During my stay in San Paolo
I visited many restaurants, two of them particularly impres-
sive: Fogo de Chao and Sao Paulo Moema, where one
can enjoy many different types of meats. The ambiance is
elegant and the service is of great efficiency. The quality
price relationship is balanced, no excess.
I was constantly making comparisons with Italian and
Neapolitan restaurants, so, all of a sudden, I came to the
idea of looking for a pizzeria. There is a old saying that
imposes on travelers never ask for dishes from their own
land. Correct: we must savor the local foods and enjoy the
new flavors they may have to offer. I do agree, because
you believe that only at home you can eat an exceptional
pasta with clams else ware it could be horrendous. Then
lets leave the known dishes and feed on specialties of the
May-June 2012
the Praco Do Republica; and on the last floor of the build-
ing you can eat on the Terraco Italia. I was tempted to go,
but it seems that it is quiet expensive.
So I decide to walk on Avenida Paulista, the heart beat
of the city which is often compared to the Fifth Avenue of
New York, even if it is a business zone. In the passed,
Avenida Paulista was full of precious houses of different
style; it was the street of the Brazilian magnates or produc-
ers of caf, but after the second world war it was demol-
ished. Today, with its skyscrapers, it is considered the first
symbol of prosperity of San Paolo.
One of the many things that struck me about San Paolo
are the taxis drivers, there is taxis galore and they are
expensive, but I was struck by the dangerously way they
drive, it gave me the chills.
Even in this case there doesnt exist a half measure: dev-
ils always. Either they are attentive to stop lights and road
signs, even excessive, or there isnt one signal they respect;
there is not one red light that scares or blocks the driver.
Its as if, the sight of a red light would represent a psy-
chological block., a rule not to respect to safeguard their
psyche. At that point the go, without fear to hit another car,
or thinking at the pour passenger livid and terrorized.
As far as the eating is concerned there is plenty of choice;
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May-June 2012
61
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unmistakable aromas.
Even if we are in San Paolo of Brazil, very far from
Naples the pizza is good, very good: the dough is good,
the mozzarella is buffalo mozzarella, the tomatoes is not
sauce and the basil is fresh; they have respected the
Neapolitan tradition and it is very good!
60
place.
But in that case, I have rezoned in the opposite way. Lets
see if the globalization can bring also something positive,
maybe in Brazil we can savor exceptional spaghetti with
clams and an exceptional pizza. With this idea in mind I
enter into the Foreneria don Pepe di Napoli in Arpanes
Avenida. The place is cozy and I order a classic
Margherita Pizza which symbolically has the colors of the
Italian Flag: white the mozzarella, red the tomato and
green the basil.
The waiters offer me antipasti and other things before the
pizza made in Italy; I turn down because pizza is to be
enjoyed before anything else.
I wait a little an here comes the Pizza Margherita with its
Luisa del
Campana
A different view- it is a city of 23 millions!!!!
Municipal Market Di San Paolo
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ON HORSEBACK
By Paolo Villoresi
For the Italian please click
here
Captain F. came to visit us at
the Villa, riding from the cav-
alry barracks near the Arno
River and crossing Florence;
he arrived astride Lola, a
sweet bay horse with a beau-
tiful white stripe on her face.
One afternoon during the
Captains visit I climbed two
tall chestnut trees when my
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father pulled out the ladder from the trees and forced me to
climb down by jumping on Lolas back. After much hesita-
tionnot because I had to jump, but because I knew how
it would endI jumped, and found myself grasping Lolas
neck as she galloped away. My father had slapped her
behind and she had taken off.
I got ahold of myself, slid my feet into the stirrups,
grabbed the reins and, since I wasnt falling off, I started
enjoying myself and galloped around the field fifteen times.
I went around for a good ten miles, to everyones satisfac-
tion and to my grandmothers great relief; she had been
fearing the worst and praying intensely since she first saw
me leap from the tree.
That was my horseback riding baptism, tinged with vio-
lenceand a violent streak would continue to run through
My riding school class with the colonel- I am the second from left
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my future with horses.
A few months later, since I had already spent many hours
on horseback without falling, the Captain decided to sub-
stitute the good stirrup straps with rotten ones; and so after
a few hundred feet the straps broke and I flew under Lolas
stomach in the middle of a ploughed field. It happened
right at Vasconi, where the village people looked upon the
Signorino on horseback with hostile admiration, were very
happy indeed to see me all dirty and muddy.
At boarding school, I rode for four years, swearing twice
a week that I would never do it again; I didnt care for our
instructor, the colonel, even though he was a champion of
the Caprili school.
The colonel had had a serious accident jumping over a
pit on horseback and had severed all the muscles in his
neck; he moved like Von Stroheim in La Grande Illusione,
and just like Stroheim he was stiff as a board. He was the
only one who could control our horses: they did as he
wished despite our orders, and jumped three feet in the air
even without an obstacle after the colonel called out
Saltooo!
The only one among us who did not care about the
colonels instructions was Pancera: he talked to his horse
and treated him like a friend, rather than hitting him; the
only horse that managed to make Pancera fall was Impero,
the same one that made me fly at least four times. I would
land on my head each time just like a bowling pin, and I
was always left breathless; I couldnt draw air! Then with a
sign of his whip, the colonel would order me to climb back
onto the lousy beast again.
My friend Giuliano excelled in all sports and was a mar-
velous rider. One summer we decided to impress the girls
and went for a ride on the beach at Focette. It was a real
mess: horseback riding was forbidden there, since we
could have hurt someone. We were lucky: we werent fined
and we looked cool, but we couldnt do it again!
Even the colonels handsome black horse looked the other
horses up and down, and for four years he managed to
make us fall whenever he pleased.
To keep us on our toes, the colonel made us change hors-
es every time. I was happy when I could ride
Francodipiede, whom I had once been able to ride for at
least ten minutes at full gallop, disobeying the colonel and
his whip. Pancera did the same thing, but he was reached
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The class
by the tip of the whip, which left him unblemished but tore
his vest and shirt in tatters.
In spring and fall, our rides along the Po River were beau-
tiful; the contact with nature was exceptionally invigorating
and penetrating, especially since we were trapped in
boarding school all year long.
From the Parco del Valentino we went beyond, along the
river, to find ourselves in the country. The air back then was
unspoiled, and nature as a wholethe wild plants and ani-
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malshad a much more marked flavor, selfish, strong like
the horses on whose backs we immersed ourselves in the
intense green cloak of the riverside.
For the year-end test we trained hard: everything had to
go like clockwork, with intricate simultaneous jumps and
turns and so on. My last year in boarding school, I was
finally confident in my performance; I could show off on my
horse a thousand ways, and I managed it like I was sitting
in a comfortable armchair.
That year, we were to do the test in the schools athletic
field; for the first time ever, I had invited a few friends,
including my friend Paolos sister, whom I liked a lot and
wanted to impress with my prowess. Everything was fine.
The horses were brought from Turin by truck, and some
had gotten nervous along the way, but mine was very
calm. We climbed on in front of the entrance to the school
and descended the steep cobblestone streets of Moncalieri.
My horse started galloping on the spot, and he continued
to do so for over an hour. When we were all ready to start,
my horse was still galloping away while standing still. I
stayed on one side during all the maneuvers and the
crossed jumps, then I tried to do a long jump, but first my
horse avoided it and then he reared up; that time I man-
aged to stay on the saddle by sheer miracle, and it was the
fear of making a fool of myself in front of my guests that
pushed me to extremes.
I led the horse to the corner of the field, hit him on the
head and rammed him hard in the stomach, climbed back
on, brought him back onto the track, and let him go at full
gallop.
We reached the group at a frantic pace, made it back
into formation, and jumped time and again without diffi-
culty. The colonel, who had never stopped criticizing me,
was finally quiet, and he was saluting me from the steps;
its really true that a little gentleness goes a long way!
After boarding school I waited twenty years to climb back
onto a horse. I married a young American woman and one
fine May day we left Pratolino on horseback, went to mass
in Gualdo, tying the horses to a pole, then circled the other
side of Monte Morello and returned to Florence, where a
friend waited for us with an incredible Mantis shrimp soup.
We had spent a memorable day, but the entire week fol-
lowing our ride I walked as though I had a horse between
my legs, and I sat like a chimpanzee!
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This is skinny me!
Cooking in
Manhattan
Serena Palumbo
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Those were the days of Ganino's clamorous success in
Florence! We traveled around in a Mercedes, and our
favorite destination was Monte Carlo.
Patty and I would set off from Florence, Rino and Elena
from Milan, and the attorney with Titty from Liguria: the
meeting point was the Beach Club Hotel in the Principality
of Monaco!
A wonderful time indeed, with fantastic friends. But Rino
was the best, Rino Bindi who, with his brother and nephew,
was the owner of one of the top Italian confectionery com-
panies; well, yes, that Bindi of the frozen desserts also
available throughout the US.
At that time we were all very young, and Bindi would
often join us at Ganino's. One night Rino tasted our cheese-
cake and asked me for the recipe, wishing to make it into
one of his products. I said yes on the spot, but the attorney
intervened, contending that both parties ought to enjoy
the profit arising from such deal. But I replied: Rino hon-
ors me with his friendship
and I expect nothing;
among friends we don't
waste time on trivialities.
The following morning we met downstairs for breakfast,
but the attorney and his other half were late. We sat wait-
ing for quite a while, and at one point we decided to start
without them. We nibbled on jam-filled croissants and slices
of Torta della Nonna (a pine nuts pie), strictly Bindi's,
while chatting about the night before and how stingy the
attorney was. We finished our breakfast without the attor-
ney having showed up; so, when the waiter brought the
bill, I came up with an idea. I talked about it to Rino, who,
being the true gentleman that he is, felt a little uneasy, but
in the end my idea was unanimously approved and we
both signed the bill on behalf of the attorney, writing down
his room number. Patty also agreed, and so did Elena, gor-
geous, cheerful and sunny more than ever, delighted at the
joke.
We loved this plan so much that we repeated it on the
next day!!
The Vespa scooter was our means of
transportation, day and night: before swimming
and after swimming, or to go out for dinner;
always with the Vespa.
Encounters
ON VACATION, MAKING JOKES ALL
THE TIME
By Roberto Bernardoni
May-June 2012
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71
When it was time to settle the hotel bill, Rino was some-
what anxious, but I reminded him of the numerous times
that we paid for the attorney, and that gave him peace of
mind.
We were sitting in the hotel lobby when Elena suddenly
said: Here he is.
Hello everyone. Have you paid already?
Sure, you're the only one missing.
Being a lawyer, and stingy, he checked each item care-
fully. As soon as he finished he lost his temper and began
yelling and swearing; never seen anything like that. Then
he started making threats and asked for the manager,
whom he tore apart with his eyes, while Rino was becom-
ing more and more anxious. I told him: Don't bother, let's
just wait and see! I handed him a glass of water and sat
quietly waiting. After only a few minutes the attorney was
back in excellent mood and told us: Not only did they
erase all the undue charges, they also gave me a huge dis-
count!
So I whispered to Rino: Are you still thinking of telling
him?
Another vacation, another story, and this time a really
special one. The destination was Formentera, one of the
Balearic Islands. At the last minute Rino let his nephew
Attilio, the family's cheerful playboy, go instead of him. We
knew Attilio, but not yet his girlfriend Laura, a gorgeous,
smart and really nice girl. We took off for Ibiza, and from
there to Formentera. I can state, without any doubt, that
that ended up being an utterly unforgettable vacation.
There was a trifle issue which we had to decide upon on
day one, and we brilliantly solved it: at the beach, we were
the only ones wearing swimsuits. After staring warily at
each other, we decided to take all the fabric off, like every-
one else, and that made us feel wonderfully; a total sense
of freedom!
The Vespa scooter was our means of transportation, day
and night: before swimming and after swimming, or to go
out for dinner; always with the Vespa. All we had to do
was change clothes, so to speak!
While wandering around we stopped to ask a woman
where we could get some authentic paella. She surprised
us: No one here on the island makes a paella that can
beat mine, Attilio promptly replied: Well then, madam,
invite us and we will pay tribute to it! The woman pon-
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Mario, our friend painter, rendered the importance of the great Vespa of our youth
dered over the idea and answered: Why not, my husband
is a fisherman and he can supply what's needed; and no
problem with the chicken, I can pick one of mine; how
about tomorrow night at nine? I live over there, in that small
house by the seaside.
OK, madam, see you tomorrow at nine, and thank you
very, very much!
The following day passed same as usual, swimming and
sunbathing, but at one point, while Laura and Patty contin-
ued basking in the sun, Attilio suggested exploring that
land of naked crowds. That was a laudable idea; however,
when he pointed out a particular specimen, worthy of an
artists masterpiece, I got distracted and injured my foot.
Nude among the nude, dragging myself on the sand, try-
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ing to reach the hotel to take care of my foot, turned out to
be a true endeavor, because that nasty little cut was spilling
blood all over like a fountain!
Bandaged or not, nothing could make us miss the paella,
and so we went, no matter what.
Husband and wife guided us through their modest but
spotless house to the terrace overlooking the sea. The din-
ner table was ready: fresh water, sangria and brown bread
were waiting for us, and fishes of all sorts resting on a tray
were calling us: try me! try me!
That excellent appetizer was followed by a superb pael-
la; I never again had one that good. Two pitchers of san-
gria accompanied it, and we could also taste what is
called carachiljo: a drop of coffee with a lot of rum! A cher-
ished and lasting friendship sprouted, in spite of us having
impudently induced them to a repeat of the invitation.
Attilio and I both believe that that island, and that unex-
pected friendship, determined our destinies, because he,
Attilio-the-playboy, ended up marrying Laura, and Patty
married me!
Attilio keeps saying: If it hadn't been for Formentera, who
would ever have gotten married?
Roberto - So, dear Paolo, time now for a recipe, right?
Paolo - sure, what are you up to?
Roberto - how about a seafood risotto, what say you?
Paolo - Risotto or Paella?
Roberto - what do you mean, you don't like Paella?
Paolo - Roberto, for a good risotto I can do my utmost;
whereas I can easily forget about Paella.
Roberto - well listen, my dear publisher, I said fish risotto,
I didn't say paella, and to make my risotto you don't need
to have traveled to Formentera or even have a housekeep-
er from the Balearic Islands. How does that sound?
Paolo - clear enough! Although, you know, if the island is
beautiful, that's one thing; if the housekeeper is............
well then! All right, tell me about the risotto.
Roberto - get yourself a package of rice, preferably
Carnaroli, and 10 or 12 medium shrimp
One white fish fillet, about one pound
One 8oz can of shelled clams and one 8oz can of shelled
mussels
4 garlic cloves, a handful of parsley.
Paolo - Roberto, give me the measurements of your
cans, please! And tell me for how many servings your
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A view of Formentera
quantities are supposed to be.
Roberto - quantities are for 4/6 people. Call me when
you have everything.
Paolo - Hello, Roberto?
Roberto - Yes sir
Paolo - I bought everything; I peeled the shrimp and
cubed the fish; I also used the shells of the shrimp to pre-
pare some broth, OK Maestro?
Roberto - Damn! you didn't forget anything!
Paolo - ain't finished yet, I also started heating oil in the
frying pan; quality oil made from olives, of course
Roberto - OK, now pick up your pen and add the garlic,
finely chopped; or perhaps you're more comfortable with a
paring knife? Well, you decide. Let it brown, but just a lit-
tle, then add the other ingredients, plus salt, black pepper
and a pinch of hot pepper. Leave behind only the clams
and mussels.
Paolo - it starts browning, shall I add white wine?
Roberto - OK, and as soon as the wine is reduced add the
clams and mussels, with their brine, and wait one minute
before removing the pan from the flame.
Paolo - Are we in a hurry? Maestro!
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My Seafood Risotto
Roberto - Oh! they'll get cooked through together with
the rice!
Paolo - You're so right, my goodness, so right!
Roberto - Good; now get a pot and put two spoonfuls
of butter, let it melt, pour in half package of rice and
start stirring; continue until it becomes translucent and it
begins to stick;
Paolo - it is sucking up all the butter
Roberto - that's normal; wait for a couple minutes and
then drop in the fish, and go on stirring; do you see it
drying up?
Paolo - yes, what shall I do, add some water?
Roberto - better add some of the broth you made with
the shrimp shells, and add also a small bunch of pars-
ley. Continue until it is fully cooked, adding broth when
needed. It should take about 20 minutes, but you better
taste it, and check the salt too; if it ain't done cooking,
wait a little longer.
Paolo - Yes sir, Maestro. I will bring it steaming hot to
the table! OK, Maestro?
Roberto - Absolutely, professor!
Full-Bodied, fat & Complex White
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LUNCH BOXES FOR LITTLE AND
BIG HEALTHY PEOPLE
By Paolo Villoresi
Serena is a dear friend of mine, but when she asked me to
prepare with her a lecture on the lunch box I didnt take her
seriously.
Paolo its a new topic fun and it is for charity; I will do
the demos and you tell the history.
I started to do some research and I found lot of material.
Another friend and my eldest daughter did it in other
countries and, in a few hours, I had a lot of material . I
also realized, that although
with different names, lunch
box exist from 3000 years.
In Milan they are called
schiscette in must places
they are called cestini, but
they are always lunch
boxes.
The Roman gladiators
used a bag of overcooked
rice to boost their energy
before and during the
fights; those were a sort of
lunch boxes too! And they
Box
Lunch
The energy Pouch of the Gladiators
Before the lecture
Serena and I like in the 50s
May-June 2012
76
Click Here
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were precious because the Romans did not use rice they
imported it on purpose for the gladiators.
The Romans already discover that rice is one of the ingre-
dients that transform rapidly into sugars.
Lunch boxes have been used and are still used all over the
world.
In America they had their moment of glory in the past cen-
tury but are still being used: they are becoming fashionable
again with youngsters and adults and not just for laborers
but for professionals , employees and children who want to
eat healthy and spend right..
The conference was marked by a sentence of Julia Child:
In this age of fast and frozen foods, we want to teach
school children about real foodwhere it is grown and
how it is producedso they can develop an understanding
The Boom of the Lunch Boxes
78
and appreciation of how good, fresh food is supposed to
taste." and the lady was perfectly right, then! now the prob-
lem has gotten gigantic, with the disaster of globalization,
with the food genetically modified, the greedy business and
Industry that are poisoning us
Its obvious people go back to the lunch box: a snack on
the street or in some cafeteria means unhealthy eating and
spending too much; better bring it from home: the quality is
better at a fraction of the cost.
People prefer to eat something yummy in a nice clean
basket and, maybe, even a small glass of good wine.
Also the lunch box has changed and this is an important
fact: no longer is the poor man's trash is the container of
Mr. so and so who has made a smart choice and practice.
It is the lunch box of someone who wants to defend his tra-
dition and his health from this mess that surrounds us.
In my research I was assisted by my friend Roberto from
San Diego an excellent cook who, with his wife and daugh-
ter, operates not only a great restaurant the Opera Caf
, but also a mobile restaurant :the grandson of those from
the 20s who distributed the first lunch boxes in that very
same part of California.
He told me about the exploits of a certain family Moody,
he put in contact with their nephew and I interviewed him
for you.
Western office Lunch Box
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Dennis I think the story of your business is very interest-
ing, it was your grandmother to have the idea
yes, Grandma Moody saw the need for good, home-
made sandwiches available on the streets of San Diego, so
they loaded up the car with cold sandwiches, took to the
streets, and never looked back. Throughout the 1920s and
1930s, and World War II, business grew slowly. The
Moodys were selling just enough sandwiches to stay in
business
Where they offering a large selection of lunches
Oh, no Paolo, they used innovative, homemade inven-
tions to make sandwich production quicker and easier, but
the meat was still sliced one slice at a time. Each day they
assembled boxed lunches that included two sandwiches, a
piece of pie, and a salad, loaded the car, and sold them
on street corners for $0.25 each
So what triggered the great success of your family,
Dennis
The improving economy after WWII, the first truck spe-
cially outfitted with sandwich storage, and the partnership
of my grandfather with his brothers Cecil and Bill. They
bought their first shop. Sandwiches were prepared daily in
the shop and then delivered to construction workers and
people on street corners
You mentioned the advent of the cold and of the hot
trucks; how was it. They were not using a frige before?
No, it was with the advent of the cold truck, a truck
equipped with both hot and cold storage to keep drinks
colder and sandwiches fresher. They expanded to their
second facility, and then to their third, our current location.
Times were good and people were hungry, and what had
started as a homemade sandwich operation had become a
fully fledged mobile catering company
So your family kept investing and improving the service,
they hade more than 80 trucks and now you are a really
important firm and you are the big boss Dennis!
Not really Paolo, you see, in 1980 the hot truck was
introduced to San Diego and remains the mobile catering
vehicle of choice. Much more advanced than a cold truck,
the hot truck has a complete onboard kitchen capable of
cooking up hot food in any location. In 1985 Moodys
completely converted from cold trucks to hot trucks
And how is the business today?
Oh business is good and our service continue, however,
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The first little Truck
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in other ways, we have changed. With our modern fleet of
catering trucks we are able to serve more locations, cover-
ing a larger area of San Diego, bringing quality food to
your workplace, no matter where you are. Our lunch
trucks, like a fleet of restaurants on wheels, provide food
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May-June 2012
service to a variety of customers in a variety of settings
throughout the San Diego area.
So the Mobile of my friend Roberto is part of your fleet
Yes, each truck is outfitted with a full kitchen onboard
which allows food to be prepared hot and fresh on-site,
and thats exactly what Mr. Roberto is doing with a truck
totally customized for me and for the Tuscan food he offers
In other words, Moodys Lunch Service continues his
original business with very sophisticated trucks, but the
food is supplied by other parties. A very good and brilliant
idea!
The first official Japanese Lunch box was already in use
in fifth century A.C. more or less at the time of the
Gladiators of ancient Rome. It was non jet called Bento Box
but it was prepared with the same love and care from
Mamma or Granma for children as well as for working
men and women who could not go back home for lunch.
Japanese believe that those boxes were nourish people
with the food and love of the makers!
There arent any illustrations and we dont know how they
were called but they must resemble the Bento Boxes used
by the tremendous commander Nabunaga passed out
once a day to his subjects of his castle in the 17 century.
In the end it was his way to feed them, but it seems that it
was not good and not enough!
and we got bigger!
and bigger- more than 80 trucks!
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In time the Bento Box became a true and proper form of
art; some are beautiful and modern, created to bring to the
office, The Bento Boxes served in the restaurant make me
think of war rationing, I prefer the same food in a dish.
The American Lunch Box had their boom in the 50s, but
the first boxes I found were from 1935) and with which the
poor immigrant workers ate on the job. Then they were
unleashed until 1980s and they created all sorts.
In France and Italy Lunch there is little use of boxes
because children eat in school cafeterias which are very
well controlled by authorities, but during and soon after the
war I had my lunch box which I liked very much because
the food was made with leftovers from our table, good,
tasty and always different.
A recipe that I was crazy which I successfully made for
my daughter Sara much recently is the following:
Leftover Steak, cold , deboned, and trimmed of fat and
hard parts, cut into thin slices and dipped overnight into a
light and vinaigrette. The next morning I prepared two
slices of Tuscan bread topped them with lettuce, covered
with a layer of meat slices; cover the meat with more lettuce
and finally with the second slice of bread and wrapped.
When he was a little older, I left the meat in a plastic bag
with some vinaigrette, the bread in a sandwich bag and
sliced tomatoes in another and the salad in a third one.
Deluxe bento box-invented in the 5th century ac
Modern office bento box
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Sara, like an adult, would make her panino or sandwich
by herself at the last minute. Her lunch will not be a lunch
without a fruit.
Another lunch that I liked and considered fun, was the
omelets of leftover pasta garnished with a tasty sauce.
I will show it to you using some spinach tagliatelle with a
ragout of breast of chicken. Lets avoid a skillet and use the
silicon muffing molds.
For 5 Tagliatelle-Omelets you need:
The left over Tagliatelle
2 eggs
salt
pepper (if for adults)
and the herb that you prefer
a muffin mold
I had some nice spinach tagliatelle with a simple sauce of
tomatoes, herbs and breast of chicken, so I warm them up in
the microwave and I distribute them in my silicon muffins
molds; I add the bitten eggs keeping it well below the rim of
the mold; I place them in the microwave approximately 80
seconds (for 2 molds); I overturn the molds and my Taglietelle
Omelets were ready. Very simple and tasty indeed!
Actually my idea is to give you different recipes like this
with every issue and ask you to send me the recipe that you
remember from your times or one which you would make
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today. I would like to create one first Lunch Box Group to
connect with existing groups abroad and exchange recipes
regularly with other group all over the world.
Now lets look at Serena who is a fine cook, and demon-
Today there are lunch boxes made with ideal fabrics light, thermal and practical
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89
strates a recipe inspired by the French cuisine: The
Vegetable Crust-less Quiche - For the recipe please click
here (Serenas page in the It. Square)
All the recipes for lunch box may be prepared to enter-
tain and vice versa; they will be good for snacks and pic-
nic as well.
In Italy we have different kind of sandwiches and panini
in every city, In America we have classic sandwiches know
by everyone they all can be food for the lunch box and
recipes to exchange with people any were in the world
because we will certainly came to savor the most different
food, we will learn about other traditions and get ideas to
create new food for ourselves. We will put together a true
collection of recipes and tips to use for different occasions
for both lunch box and entertaining friends.
Another very appetizing sort of sandwich, this is from
Lombardy in the center of northern Italy, a region very rich
of great cow cheeses.
This should be Stracchino or Robiola, both fresh and soft
cheeses.
Take a foccacia bread, slice it open and spread
Stracchino on both halves, place on top Prosciutto Cotto
(Ham) some arugula leaves and close it with the other half.
Better if you cut it in 2 or 3 pieces, this way you can cre-
ate mini sandwiches easy to eat.
As you can see there are recipes made by Chefs or home-
made; and Im planning to give you simple recipes made
with or without leftovers, with few ingredients, healthy and
good for children too.
Please do the same and we will create a very good an
original recipe exchange; it will be fun!
Our will be the most original group of LunchBoxers in
America!!
For any information and to send your recipes
and your opinions write to:
info@lunchboxschiscetta.com
CIBO
88
ENOTECA REGIONALE
EMILIANA
GREAT NEWS!!
Roberto Rabachino,
is the new Chairman of the
International Wine Tasters
Origination.
Piadina or Focaccia of Stracchino and Prosciutto
OPERACAFFE

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