Session 1,2

What is quality Quality related terms & Definitions

Ref: Managing Quality in the apparel Industry-Mehta and Bharadwaj:Chapter 1

Quality Assurance for Textiles and Apparel-Sara J. Kadolph ;Chapter 2

How do we define quality?

Traditional definitions of Quality

Fitness for use- Joseph Juran

Conformance to requirementsPhilip Crosby

Quality defined
"Quality" is defined as that combination of design and properties of materials of a product which are needed for the intended end use and level of the market in which it is sold. "Requisite Quality" is defined as the design and composition of a product, which has been thoroughly proved by adequate development work, in order to establish its reliability under the conditions to which it will be subjected in use and to avoid producing too high a grade of product for the intended market.

Quality Defined
A holistic definition of Quality can be Quality is a dynamic state associated with products, services, people ,processes and environments that meets or exceeds expectations (Goetsch and Davis 1994) Can have a (Garvin)
Product perspective, Producer's perspective or Consumer's perspective Value perspective

product
In this view, quality is determined as a precise and measurable variable and difference in quality reflects differences in the quality of some ingredient or attitude seen to be possessed by a product. In this view quality and quantity has direct relation

customer
In this view, definitions are based on the premise that solely the user determined quality. Individual customers are assumed to have different wants or needs and goods that best satisfy the preference are the one they regarded, as having the highest perceived quality. Quality is fitness for use that this view also reflects a highly personalized and subjective view

manufacturing
This view focuses on manufacturing and engineering practices. It emphasis conformance to specified requirements. The higher the degree that meets specified requirements the higher the quality. This view seeks to ensure that the deviations from standards set design specifications are minimized. To achieve the quality of conformance means improving in the design of the Equipment Materials Supervision Control Training

Value based
The base for this view is physiological understanding of the meaning of value. Consequently, customers have been conditioned to accept that the quality of product is determined by the price. There fore price and quality have a direct relation ship

Dimensions of quality
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Positioning of a company based on Garvin`s Model Performance Features Reliability Conformance Durability Serviceability Aesthetics Perceived quality

Dimensions of quality
1.Performance: (will the product do the intended (planed or proposed) job). Potential costumer usually evaluate a product to determine if it will perform certain specific functions and determine how well it perform them.
Example: producing document case leather bag, for what purpose does is bag produced, does the bag has multi function pocket?

2.Reliability: (how often does the product fail?) different products may need repair over their service life. The leather machineries should be also reliable so as to increase productivity
Example: when we produce the leather garment, it needs higher attention during stitching. Because the nature of the needle is like cuter edge type and stitch the component by cutting the part. So re stitching is not done, means no repair and only rejection.

Dimensions of quality
3.Durability: (how long does the product last?).This is the effective service life of the product customer obviously want products that performed satisfactorily over a long period of time. 4.Serviceability: (how easy is it to repair the product?). There are many industries where the customers view of quality is directly influenced by how quickly and economically a repair or routine maintenance activity can be accomplished. Example: planned maintenance of stitching machine. 5. Aesthetics: what does the product look like?). this is the visual appeal of the product, often taking into account factors such as style, color, shape, packaging alternatives and other sensory features. 6.Features :( what does the product do? ). Usually customer associate high quality with products that have added features: that is, those that has features beyond the basic performance of the competition

Helena M de Klerk and Stephina J Lubbe;Journal of Family Ecology and Consumer Sciences, Vol 32, 2004

Quality in the garment Industry

Still at inspection level AQL Quality is inspected into the product. A few firms are attempting SPC. Still a long way to go to finally reach global quality standards

Why improve quality?

FOB is getting lesser Delivery time is getting lesser Costs are increasing. We need to keep providing better service to hold the buyers attention.
Provide indisputable quality Provide indisputable quality at better costs.

Importance of QUALITY
The consumer quality expectations have gone up Consumer is too busy to come back and complain Consumer is not interested to take special care of the product Consumer spending on apparel has reduced Stringent consumer protection laws Stores cannot afford a dissatisfied customer Working with non-quality vendors is costly

Terms related to quality

Quality Assurance 1. All those planned and systematic actions necessary to provide adequate confidence that a product or service will satisfy given requirements for quality. 2. The establishment and maintenance of ALL activities and functions concerned with the attainment of requisite quality"

Terms related to quality

Quality Control 1.The operational techniques and the activities used to fulfill the requirements of quality is called quality control. It is the regulatory process through which we measure actual quality performance, compare it with quality goals and act on the difference. 2. The systems required for programming and coordinating the efforts of the various groups in an organization to maintain the requisite quality" As such Quality Control is seen as the agent of Quality Assurance or Total Quality Control

Quality related terms

Quality Management -That aspect of the overall management function that determines and implements the quality policy. Quality System -The organizational structure, responsibilities, procedures, processes and resources for implementing quality management

Session 3,4
What is Quality Standard and Quality Grade Different textile and apparel standards
Ref:Managing Quality in the apparel IndustryMehta and Bharadwaj-Chapter 14 Quality Assurance for Textiles and ApparelSara J. Kadolph-Chapter 3

Standards
Standard a set of characteristics or procedures that provide a basis for resource and production decisions. Standardization - is the process of developing and applying rules for a consistent and uniform approach to a specific activity for the benefit and with the cooperation of all concerned.

Standards-uses
1. Used to define weights and measures 2. Used to set forth practices and expectations in the field. 3. Used to describe the characteristics of a product in a precise and consistent fashion. 4. Used to describe a minimum level of performance and safety. 5. Used to convey information about a product or material in a consistent manner. 6. Enhances efficiency standardization of parts, processes and products enables economies of scale in production. 7. Standardization leads to enhanced competition.

Types/Levels of standards
Company Standards-describe general characteristics or features of a product or service or they describe a required level of performance. Useful for the design, purchase, development and production departments as they may be developed by the company itself or adopt other organization's standards for its specific purpose.

Types/Levels of standards
Industry standards reflect consensus among companies in an industry or among individual members of a profession. Developed by trade associations or professional bodies.

Levels/Types of standards
Voluntary standards- allows individuals or companies to determine on their own whether to adopt a standard. ASTM one of the largest voluntary standards development system in the world Mandatory standards adoption is required by law or regulation. Mostly related to health or safety issues.

Comparison between Various U.S. Drawstring Standards

Neck area Prohibitions ASTM Standard (F1816-97) a Voluntary national standard: No drawstrings in the hood and neck area of certain childrens clothing. Only childrens upper outerwear. Sizes 2t to 12. Wisconsin Law(ATCP 139)-a State regulation: No drawstrings in the hood and neck area of all childrens clothing. All childrens clothing. Sizes 0 to 16.

Levels/Types of standards
International standards-standards are used internationally to facilitate trade and technology transfer among nations Goal is to
Enhance product quality and reliability at reasonable prices Improve health and safety and environmental protection Reduce hazards Produce greater compatibility of goods and services Simplify and improve product and service usability Increase distribution efficiency

Different standardizing bodies

( refer Sara Kadolph; Mehta and Bhardwaj)
ASQC- American Society for Quality control ASQC_TNT- American society for quality control-textiles and needle trade division ASTM- American Society for Testing and Materials AATCC-American association of textile chemists and colorists ANSI-American national standards Institution ISO- International organization for standardization BSI- British Standards Institute BIS- Bureau of Indian Standards. AQC of AAMA Apparel Quality committee of American Apparel Manufacturer's Association.

Grade
The process of assigning a numerical value based on the number, size,and severity of defects observed during a visual inspection; the symbol, number, or letter used for any step in a multistep standard reference scale for a quality characteristic.

Session 5,6
What is Quality Specification Concept of Tolerances
Ref: Quality Assurance for Textiles and ApparelSara J. Kadolph-Chapter 3 and 10

Specifications
Is a precise statement of a set of requirements to be satisfied by a material, product, system or service that indicates the procedures for determining whether each of the requirements is satisfied. Requirements- are non negotiable.they need to be met for the specs to be satisfied.

Specifications
Specs describe requirements- in terms and/or numerical values. Minimum is the least or lowest acceptable value for any given parameter or dimension Tolerance - describes the range of acceptable values. Not all specs will include tolerances

Types of specifications
Open- allows for consideration of multiple vendors and includes a description of the character and /or performance desired in the product or material to be purchased. Closed specifies the exact material, component, or product by manufacturer or vendor and includes style numbers, trade names or other such specific identities.

Application of specifications.
1. Used to describe the materials ,procedures, dimensions and performance for a particular product or style. 2. Reflect the standard- co. standards, costs, customer needs and expectations and implementation abilities. 3. Used as a communication tool- for production, for suppliers and for customer. 4. To negotiate bids and contracts 5. Used for purchasing materials for production 6. Used as a determinant for quality.

SPECIFICATION GUIDELINES FOR PIECE GOODS INSPECTION *Fabric Yardage / Width *Hand feel / Quality *Color / Print *Fabric Weight *Wash & Dry Shrinkage *Color Fastness * What percent of goods inspected prior to cutting? * Are shade controlled and segregated by lots at storage stage? * Use of a light box? * Spectrophotometer? * What is the light source used? * Is there pre-testing on the shrinkage prior cutting? * How is the pre-testing done? * Records on shade bands?

Garment spec sheets

Specification sheets provide important details to ensure the correct execution of patterns into finished garments. Spec sheets help to produce accurate samples, which improves turnaround time and simplifies communication during all stages of manufacturing and quality control. Spec sheets include detailed technical diagrams, construction notes, finished garment measurements, fabric yields and material and trim details.

Session7,8
Assignment 1- assigned on 20.08.10; To be submitted on 27.8.10; time- 3 hrs(2 sessions) ; marks -20

Assignment 1- 20 marks
Prepare a garment specification sheet for a garment of choice, inspect the garment and record the inspection report in the prescribed format. Individual assignment Criteria of evaluation Selection of garment- 3 marks Specification sheet-7 marks Inspection report 10 marks

Session 9,10
Fabric Inspection ;Defects Testing
Ref:Managing Quality in the apparel IndustryMehta and Bharadwaj-Chapter 2,Pages 14-20 and pg 75-77 and Chapter 3

Fabric- defects
Woven Broken end Broken Pick Coarse end/Pick Color Fly Yarn Double end/double pick End out Mispick Hole Shade Bar Slub Thick and Thin Places

KnittedBarre Birdseye Coarse yarn Dropped stitches Fine yarn Missing Yarn Needle Line Run Tucking Defect .

..

Fabric
Inspection And Grading 4 point system 10 point system Graniteville 78 system

Fabric grading
4 point system 10 point system Graniteville 78 Max.no.of points per linear yard= fabric width /9 width in inches. Length of defect is counted-can be weft or warp Sensitive to width of fabric

Allows max. 4 penalty points to one linear yard

Points for only length wise defects and holes

Allows max.10 points per linear yard Warp as well as filling defects carry points

Sensitive to width of Not sensitive to width fabric of fabric Total defect points per If no. of penalty points 100square yards should are <the no.of yards of fabric inspected it is first not exceed 40 quality fabric

4 point system Size of defects (Inches) 3 inches or less Over 3 but not over 6 Over 6 but not over 9 Over 9 inches Assigned Points 1 2 3 4

All textiles are evaluated on a square yard computation. The formula used to determine the point count level of a roll of fabric is as follows: Total Points x 3,600 = Points per 100 yard2 Inspected Yards x Cuttable Fabric Width (in)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

10 point system Size of Defect (Inches) Warp 1 inch or less 1 to 5 inches 5 to 10 inches 10 to 36 inches Size of Defect (Inches) Weft 1 inch or less 1 to 5 inches 5 inches to half width Large than half width

Assigned Points 1 3 5 10 Assigned Points 1 3 5 10

Division/Season: Fabric Pattern#: Fabric Supplier: Piece Length:

Fabric Check List

Style: Type Roll #:

1)General Appearance (against weaving/dyeing/ printing standard): 2)Construction:Check against hand standard): 3)Width( as specified in contract): 4)Piece length (as per tag and packing list): 5)Design/Pattern and colors/shades (as per approved strike off or lab dip): -Any repeat variation 6)MAJOR DEFECTS
1-Centre to Selvedge variation 2- End to End shading 3-Broken or missing ends/Picks 4-Torn ,Wavy, Folded or Tight Selvedges 5- Coarse Yarn in Warp or Weft 6- Holes 7-Double or multiple ends/picks 8-Loom stop marks 10-Noticeable Shade or filling bars 11-Noticeable Dead Crease mark/line 12-Noticeable Dye Streaks and stains through the roll 13- Bowing or skewing 14- Reed marks 15-Foreigh matter/soiled yarn 16-Neps 17-Oil Stains

________ ________ ________ ________ ________ ________

_________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________

18-----------

________

Gap standards for Piece goods Inspection

Testing
The analysis and evaluation of a material or product to assess its characteristics, quality or performance. Test method- is a definitive procedure for the identification, measurement, and evaluation of one or more qualities, characteristics or properties of a material, product, system or service that produces a test result.

Testing of fabrics
Precision: the degree of agreement within a set of observations or test results obtained by using a test method. Accuracy: the degree of agreement between the true value of the property being tested ( an accepted standard value) and the average of many observations made according to the test method, preferably by many observers. Reliability

Testing conditions
Standard Humidity and temperature conditions to be maintained Relative humidity-65+2% Temperature 21+1oC(70+ 2oF) Min. 4 hrs in standard test conditions to reach equilibrium

Testing of fabrics
Fabric Strength Yarn Count, Yarn Twist, Fabric construction, Fabric weight and width. Yarn Slippage Color fastness- to light, washing, rubbing, sunlight, perspiration, chlorine ,dry cleaning, heat etc. Dimensional Changes In Fabrics Due To Laundering, Drycleaning, Steaming, Pressing Bow and Skewness Fabric Thickness Pilling Abrasion Resistance

Testing of fabrics
Each individual to conduct testing of fabrics in the F&T testing lab and record the following in the log book: 1The test being conducted 2.The standard used 3.The test requirements 4.Method of testing and 5.The instrument used 6. Any special instructions/ conditions for the test.

Session 11-14
Testing at lab

Session 15
Trims Defects
Ref: Mehta and Bharadwaj-Chapter 3

Trims Defects
Sewing threads Imperfections in the yarn Finish Color Package density Winding Yardage

Trims defects -Zippers

To check for Dimensions Locks at ends and tabto be securely attached Color of tape Tape quality- no wrinkling/puckering Fading of color on washing or ironing Deformities due to washing/ironing Kinds of defects Ratcheting Shear Slider distortion Sewing Bottom stop Hump Popping Wrongly placed closures at zip end Chemical degradation Design problems

Trim Defects
Buttons
Clear holes Uniform thickness Color Laundering/ironing/dry cleaning pressures No cracked edges or sharp edges at holes Uniform distance of holes

Buckles
Sharp edges Color/materialappropriate for use

Snap Fasteners
Close properly Metal quality No sharp edges after attaching

Testing of Trims
Zippers
Durability of finish of zippers to laundering Colorfastness of zippers to laundering Colorfastness of zippers to light Colorfastness of zippers to crocking Colorfastness of zippers to laundering Durability of finish of zippers to dry cleaning Resistance of zippers to salt spray (fog) Measuring of zipper dimensions Strength tests of zippers Operability of zippers

Testing of Trims
Buttons
Impact Resistance Shape Uniformity Resistance to Unsnapping - Snap Fasteners

Hook and loop fasteners

peel strength sheer strength shrinkage, color fastness

Testing of Trims
Elastic Resistance to degradation (becoming loose, losing elasticity) due to laundering Elastic Limit Testing

Fusible Interlining
Bond Strength Shrinkage and Stretch Delamination and Strike back

Testing of Trims
Sewing threads
Friction testing Colorfastness test & abrasion resistance Yarn number testing Twist balance Shrinkage Strength and Elongation Twist Evenness Diameter (Thickness)

Mid term

Post mid term session 17,18

Procedures practiced for Quality Control and Assurance (Cutting,Fusing)

Ref:Managing Quality in the apparel IndustryMehta and Bharadwaj-Page 34-42

Cutting room Quality procedures

Cutting Deptt.-activities
Fabric inspection Pattern making Marker planning Spreading Cutting Bundling Ticketing Fusing

Pattern
Basic block + seam allowances = working patterns working patterns are graded= full set patterns Full set patterns adjusted for fabric characteristics e.g shrinkage factors= production patterns Each graded paper pattern must have the following information written on itsize,cut,grain line and name of component part.

Requirements of Marker Planning

1) Nature of the fabric and desired result in the finished garment pattern alignment to grain design characteristics of finished style pattern style

2) Requirements of quality in cutting

knife clearance pattern count appropriate labeling

3)Requirements of Production Planning

Factors affecting Marker Planning

Fabric Characteristics

Differences in face & back. Lengthwise /crosswise symmetry Need for matching the design Length of design repeat Fabric width
Characteristics of Pattern pieces

As number of garment sizes on marker increases the fabric utilization becomes better.

Marker making Check List

Division/Season: Fabric Pattern# and Swatch: Piece Length: Width of Piece Goods: Fabric properties- Directional/Non-Directional . Style: Roll #:

Cutting -Spreading
Factors affecting spreading form or nature of the material package Direction of the material surface w.r.t the cutting table surface Direction of surface nap or design w.r.t the ends of the spread.

Cutting -Spreading
Process of Spreading- requirements
Splice points to be marked- to avoid fabric flaws Shades to be sorted out Ply direction Stability of the lay Alignment of plies- length and width Ply tension Static elimination Distortion of spread Fusion of plies

Cutting-requirements
Precision of cut Clean edges no fraying or jagged edges Unscorched , Unfused surface-appropriate cutting equipment; shape of the part and condition of the knife Support of the lay Consistent cutting Depth of spread no. of plies and the thickness of ply Density of material-fabric weight-fibre;yarn size and count

Cutting-requirements
Quality criteria Knife Clearance Accuracy of cut marker precision stability of the lay proper cutting sequence

Cutting pitch Choice of appropriate cutting knife Condition of knife blade

Fusing- process parameters

1. Temperature-Need an optimum ``glue-line temperature or ``interface temperature``. Once this temperature is reached the bonding will occur. At the correct temperature, the resin changes from a dry solid to a viscous liquid which penetrates the fibers by suitable application of pressure. After cooling this re-solidifies and bonding occurs thus. If the temperature is not reached- fusing will not take place as resin will not polymerize. If the temperature is exceeded-can have problems of `strike-back'; adhesive migration and low bond strength can be experienced.

Fusing - process parameters

2.Time-The function of the time element is to compensate for the delay in the transmission of heat from the source to the fusible agent. It is simply the time duration the composite should be exposed to heat. This time component relates to The time when the 2 plates of the press actually meet with the correct specific pressure or the time for which the assemblies are actually in the heating zone if a continuous press is used. The type of interlining used i.e whether it has a low or high melt adhesive system or if it has a light or heavy weight substrate. The type of application for which the fusible is to be used The nature of the shell fabric being used. The type of fusing equipment employed.

Fusing - process parameters

3.Pressure - pressure is necessary to ensure that intimate contact is effected between fusible interlining and the shell fabric. Adequate heat transfer takes place Controlled even penetration of the of the adhesive takes place into the fibers. Pressure is normally recommended depending on the viscous or flow property of the glue. 4.Cooling cooling is very necessary for the bonding to take place after the fusing process is over

Fusing - process parameters

Sequence of the process parameters first heat should be applied to raise the temperature of the interlining-fabric composite to the glue-line temperature. Pressure is then applied to enable the adhesive dots of interlining to penetrate the base fabric. Heat and pressure should not be applied together as this may result in flattening of adhesive dots and resulting unnecessary stiffness in the fused fabric due to increasing area of contact between fabric and interlining. Flattening of adhesive dots also result in less penetration of adhesive onto the base fabric thus reducing the peel-bond strength. Cooling after the final pressure.

Fusing
Performance parameters also depend on material and weight of the substrate and fiber content- cotton and rayon give softer hand feel;polyester and nylon are used for their strength, stability and resiliency.Blends of fibers are very common.wool and hair fibers may be used to provide resiliency and shape retention and used in wool piece goods.

resin application methods commonly usedothers include-

scatter coating dry dot printed coating paste coating

preformed systems extrusion laminating & emulsion coating

Fusing -Quality parameters

Quality problems associated with fusing Strike back Strike through Shrinkage Delamination Color change Bubbling Boardiness

Session 19,20
Understanding quality procedures in sampling Different stages of samples

Product development process

Sampling process
Proto Sample Fit sample Photo Samples/Salesman Samples

Size set sample Sealor/sealed sample Pre production sample/ pilot run sample

TOP sample
Shipment sample

Sampling Process
Once the merchandiser/designer approve the proto sample then specs are corrected and fit sample is made. Corrections on the fit sample lead to a graded size specs and size set Photo samples/salesman samples in correct design/color and sample size are submitted next Pre production sample (PPS)/pilot run sample is sent with the bulk fabric and all trims in correct placement with the required after treatment and packaging to make the buyer aware of the shipment which is expected from bulk. A counter sample or sealed sample is sent along with all corrections made , in correct construction and correct trims with any special instructions from the buyer to the production for production reference.

Sewing room Quality procedures

Quality Assurance for Textiles and Apparel-Sara J. Kadolph-Page 375, Managing Quality in the apparel Industry-Mehta and Bhardwaj Ch 2

Type of Sample
Prototype Samples

Size
Average

Material
Nearest substitute of fabric

Stages at which it is sent

Purpose

At which suppliers are still trying to confirm the To finalize Fit, construction, and converting sketch/design into style and trying to get an order garment.

Salesman samples

Average

Exactly same fabric

After approval of prototype, still trying to get order from buyer

To know the opinion of the store owners whether the style would sell in the market or not, and the demand of that product.Helps to book colorwise-size wise quantities

Fit sample

Average

Could be substitute if not available.

Made after order is booked.

Refining a fit & construction from either prototype or salesman sample, and/or make changes to these samples as required in the design.

Size-set samples

All sizes

Exactly same fabric, trims and other value added work

After fit and construction of average size is approved.

The purpose is to check the actual approval for production of all the sizes and also to approve the desired value added work (like printing, embroidary etc.) to be done on the garment.

Sealer's sample

Average

Exactly same fabric, trims and other value added work

After Size-set for the style has been approved. This sample sealed for the bulk i.e. manufacturer will have to make the exact pieces for bulk.

Pre-production sample/Advertisement/Photosh oot sample

Average

Exactly same

When the initial yardage of bulk fabric is received.

This is made for advertisement, making catalogue, photoshoot or only for buyer's referance that how the garment will look like finally.

Top of production

Average

Exactly same

During the execution of production order.

To see whether the bulk pieces are coming out alright or not, whether the quality and construction is matching to the sealer sample or not. Vendor always tries to select the best quality pieces to send as TOPs.

Shipment samples

Average

Exactly same

Before sending the shipment to the buyer's warehouse.

Shipment sample is a representative of bulk reaching buyer's warehouse/DC. It goes from vendor to buyer's office, to buyer's warehouse/distribution centre and finally to Store. Shipment sample need to be in correct colour, trims, packing etc.aganist which DC will check the bulk quantity received.

Q.A in sewing department

Two aspects1. Operator training as related to quality -operators to be
1. Aware of the quality standards of the organization 2. Aware of the quality parameters with regards to the product's fit ,appearance and construction 3. Aware of what constitutes a defect and how to avoid it. 4. Aware of the correct usage of the fabric and trims being used.

Q.A in sewing department

2. Setting quality standards for sewing operations Written quality specs for each operation
spi Seam type, stitch type, machine type Matching and/or balancing requirements

Sketch and /or Sample of quality standard for each operation Tolerances if any

Sewing defects
Needle hole damage Feed damage Skipped stitches Thread break Broken/joint stitches Seam grin Seam pucker Pleated seam Wrong spi Uneven stitch density Oil spots/stains Poorly formed stitches

Sewing defects
1. Needle damage
Causes holes, picked threads, ruptured threads or other damages to the fabric. Caused by wrong size or type of needle, blunt needle, needle point damaged, needle heat or machine needle feeding. Can be remedied by changing the needle or adjusting the feed mechanism.

Sewing defects
2. Feed Damage Causes damage on the fabric surface or on seam Caused by incorrect type of teeth, excessive pressure by foot,improper alignment of feed dog and presser foot, damaged throat plate or excessive machine speed Remedied by adjusting the feed dog teeth,pressure of the foot,or changing the damaged throat plate

Sewing defects
3. Skipped stitches Causes excessively long stitches of two or more stitch lengths during the stitch cycle Caused by the hook irregularly failing to pick up the loop of thread from the needle`s eye . Can be remedied by adjusting the type of needle, length of needle, bobbin hook position,matching thread to needle

Sewing defects
4. Thread breaks Caused by too thick a thread for the needle,too thin a thread for the needle, needle heat,operator working unrhythmically or tight tensions Remedied by adjusting the correct thread size to needle size, adjusting the machine tension, operator training and using a treated thread to counter needle heat.

Sewing defects
5. Broken stitches

Cause unseemly seam appearance and less strength of the seam Caused by wrong stitch type,too tight tensions,a badly formed joint in the seam where the second line of stitches run over the first and crack it, sharp feeds and too great a pressure Can be remedied by adjusting the feed dog position and pressure,adjusting the tension,selecting the correct stitch type for the seam.

Sewing defects
6. Seam grin Causes the seam stitch line to be seen and seam to open up when pressure is applied Caused by too loose a tension or too large a stitch length or the wrong type of stitch. Can be remedied by adjusting the stitch density, stitch tension or the stitch type.

Sewing defects
7. Seam pucker Causes the seam to appear wrinkled Caused by differential fabric stretch,differential fabric dimensional instability,due to extension in sewing thread, due to sewing thread shrinkage,due to structural jamming, due to mismatched patterns Remedied by using special feed systems,using dimensionally stable fabric,adjusting tension settings or changing thread type,matching performance of thread to fabric,fabric design change or sewing at bias and proper cutting respectively.

Sewing defects
8. Staggered stitches Causes poor appearance of the seam Caused by yarns in the fabric deflecting needle away from the straight line of stitching,faulty feed motion,incorrect needle Remedied by stitching on a slightly bias angle where the fabric is hard woven,adjusting the feed mechanismor changing the needle.

Sewing defects
9. Improperly formed stitches Causes reduced stretch in the stitch line,causes needle thread to show on the underside or bobbin thread to be visible on top Caused by poor tension,incorrectly adjusted stitch timing or improperly fitting machine components Remedied by adjusting the feed mechanism, stitch timing,tension

Sewing defects
10. Variable stitch density
Caused by insufficient foot pressure, slippery or sticky surface of fabric Remedied by increasing the pressure or using specialized feed systems.

Seaming defects
Incorrect width of inlay Incorrect shape of sewing line Insecure back stitch Twisted seam Mismatched checks/stripes Reversed garment parts Wrong seam type Wrong shade of thread Extraneous part caught in seam

Assembly defects
Finished components not correct to size/shape/symmetry Components/parts wrongly positioned Garment parts pleated/twisted/showing bubbles/fullness Parts shaded Wrong one way direction Mismatched trimming

Pressing and finishing defects

burnt or scorched garments water spots or stains gloss or change in color flattened nap or surface broken/damaged trims incorrectly formed crease garments not thoroughly dried lining defects- creases, shine marks, pleats shrinkage/elongation due to heat moisture or incorrect pressing

Inspection
Quality Assurance for Textiles and Apparel-Sara J. Kadolph Chapters 11-13, Managing Quality in the apparel Industry-Mehta and Bharadwaj ;Chapter 2 Page 42-74,

Deming`s PDCA cycle

Actif positive resultsaction is taken to replicate the process improvements across the board standardization necessary here Act if negative resultsplan stage is revisited and cycle is repeated

Plan Do Check

Planningwhat the customer needs and wants determine process goals thru this examine current process in view of these goals

Checkresults of DO stage analyzed desired objectives met or not

Do implementation of this plan implemented as a test case in controlled setting

Inspection Loop
Inspection Detection of defects Correction of defects

Determination of causes of defects

Feedback of the defects to appropriate personnel

Inspectors- Requirements
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Technical knowledge about the job Good vision and color perception Attention to detail Thoroughness in procedure Self-directed Ability to take decisions without bias Ability to work in a team Reasonable knowledge of mats Interest in maintaining the company's reputation for quality merchandise 10. Ability to communicate clearly- verbally and in written form

Inspection or audit
The visual examination or review of materials, product components and finished products on the basis of their adherence to some established set of standards ,specifications or requirements. Can have inspection at different stages of the process- in-process inspection Or at the end of the process- end process or final inspection.

Types Of Inspections- based on stage in the production process

Inspection
Finished Goods

At Source

At arrival

In Process
Acc to Process Stability

Vendor

Raw Material

Acc to Dept Spreading & Cutting Sewing

Fabric

Setup

Trims

Patrol

Finishing

TYPES OF INSPECTION
Material inspection
Inspection at the raw material stage.

Source inspection
Inspection at the suppliers place including materials, components, products or documents

In-process inspection
Visual inspection of all parts, components and materials during the production process

In-coming goods inspection

Inspection done for goods outsourced

Vendor inspection
Inspection done to check vendors facility and operations.

Product inspection
Inspection done to ensure whether the product meets the required standards and specification

Inspection or audit
1. Raw Material Inspection Fabric Inspection length, width, quality level (visual and testing) and Uniformity requirements Trims Inspection Interlinings Inspection
.

2.

In-Process Inspection Spreading Cutting Sewing Fusing and Printing Operation Pressing and Finishing Operation

Inline Inspection quality parameters

Spreading Ply alignment, Ply tension, Fabric characteristics and variations, Splicing requirements and points, width and length variation Type of spread Marking No. of pattern parts, grain line, pattern alignment, marker width, notches
Cutting Frayed edges, pattern precision, notches, drills count Embroidery/Printing Placement, wrong color, wrong print, measurements, missing parts

TYPES OF INSPECTION IN APPAREL INDUSTRY

INLINE INSPECTION
Self inspection/no external inspection 100% inspection Random inspection

FINAL INSPECTION
100% inspection Spot checking Arbitrary inspection Statistical or acceptance sampling

In-Process inspection Procedure

Complete operational flow chart Determine Inspection Points Determine whether 100% or random sampling required. Amount to be inspected in random sampling depends on Kind of Product Quality policy of the company Buyer requirements Other factors such as time, financial constraints, labor restrictions etc.

Operation breakdown and flow chart

Men's Tunic Shirt

In-Process inspection- Random Sampling Procedure

e.g. 1.Should audit complete finished bundle 2. Inspect every 4th bundle of every operator/operation based on the quality parameters of buyer's AQL or company standards 3. If bundle is rejected, then return the bundle to the operator and inspect the next 3 bundles. 4. If 3 bundles are o.k then go back to inspecting every 4th bundle

INLINE INSPECTION FOR CONTINUOUS PRODUCTION

Inspection done using statistical sampling plans called Continuous Sampling Plans (CSP) Combination of 100% inspection and statistical sampling Example: 100% inspection till a specified number of pieces are found acceptable Inspection of only fraction of the pieces produced If a defective piece is found, revert to first step and follow same procedure

* Specified number depends upon Accepted Outgoing Quality Level (AOQL)

 Continuous Sampling Plan

Inspect 100%
i Consecutive acceptable units YES Inspect fraction f of the units

NO

FLOW OF THE CSP-1 PLAN NO

122

YES

Defect found in sample

In-Line Inspection
In-line inspection should be conducted at least once a shipment. The checking criteria may be as below: To check the fabric quality in terms of color shade, hand feel and printed patterns against the standards. To check the measurements of semi-products against the size specification. When checking this, fabric shrinkage, stretch ability and other factors that may affect the measurement during manufacturing process must be taken into consideration.

In-Line Inspection
To check all trimmings in terms of color, function and shape against the approved trim cards, which include labels, hangtags, embroidery, prints, zippers, buckles, etc. To check the construction in terms of styling and workmanship against the sealed sample. As the non-conforming products are found, the maker should be pushed taking an immediate corrective action in order to have an immediate improvement

Classification Of Defects
Critical Defect -A defect is defined as a defect that is

1)resulting in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individual using it or (2) Prevent performance of the tactical function of a major end item. The critical defects can be 1)Loose components, i.e. buttons, snaps, stones or other miscellaneous parts or any extraneous element is found within a product (insect, part of accessory).; 2) Any items, which have sharp point, sharp edge, or potentially dangerous components, which can cause injury .i.e. broken needles, staples, snaps, rivets, wire and pins; 3) Drawstrings at head or neck for baby or kids products; and 4) Threads or trim which are excessively long or loose which could present a choking hazard to a baby or child if they become entangled.

Classification Of Defects
Major Defect -A defect is defined as a major defect that results in failure, or reduces materially ,the usability of the unit of product for its intended purpose. The major defects can be holes, broken seam, obvious stains permanent in nature, etc.

Classification Of Defects
Minor Defect -A defect is defined as minor defect that is not likely to reduce the usability of the product, but nevertheless may negatively influence the sales. The minor defects can be untrimmed thread-ends, slight dirt in a non- noticeable zone which can be removed, etc.

Product/defect Zones
Garment Zones- Areas which according to their visibility levels to the customer are accorded a status and the acceptance or rejection of the defect is prioritized according to the area or zone in which it occurs. Based on the kind of defects occurring in specific zones, decisions are taken to accept or reject the product.

Product zones

ref sara k.

Zone 1or A- areas with high visibility that are likely to be viewed at close distance at time of purchase. Shirts fronts till waist, back till a/h, bottoms- front; flared skirt- till low hip Zone 2 or B- areas which are not visibly dominant but are visible in normal use. front waist area, back from A/h to 10 cm above hem , bottoms- back. Zone 3 or C- areas normally hidden in everyday use but could be visible on occasions. shirt side seams , hem area, bottoms- hem of a long skirt full trouserbetween knee and hem area, inseam area.

Garment Defect Zones

How to measure Blazer/Jacket/Vest/Coat

A.Across chest - Measure straight across front at narrowest point between armhole seams. (Garment must be fastened) B.Chest/bust- Measure straight across front body, 1" below armhole, from edge to edge C.Bottom/sweep - Measure along the bottom edge of garment. D.Total body length from high point of shoulder- Measure from shoulder seam at neck straight down to the bottom edge of garment. E.Shoulder seam- -Measure from neck seam along shoulder to armhole seam. F.Armhole (curved)- -Measure from the joint point of shoulder seam at armhole to joint point of underarm seam at armhole, following the shape of curve line G.Armhole (straight)- -Measure straight from the joint point of shoulder seam at armhole to joint point of underarm seam at armhole. H.Upper arm(1 " below armhole)- - measure straight across sleeve seam, parallel to sleeve opening. I.Sleeve length from shoulder- -Measure from joint of shoulder seam at sleeve to bottom edge of sleeve J.Sleeve length from centre back- -Measure from centre back neck seam across to shoulder seam, down to bottom edge of sleeve. K.Sleeve (2" above cuff)- -Measure 2" above cuff or finished edge, straight across sleeve (from edge to edge). L.Sleeve opening- -Measure along the edge of sleeve M.Across shoulder- -Measure straight across back from shoulder/sleeve seam to shoulder/sleeve seam. N.Across back - Measure straight across back at narrowest point between armhole seams O.Centre back length - Measure from centre back neck seam, straight across to the bottom edge of garment. P.Neck opening - Measure along neck seam from centre front to centre back. Q.Flap width - Measure along the top of flap (from edge to edge). R.Flap depth - Measure from centre of top edge of flap to bottom edge S.Welt pocket opening - Measure along the welt pocket opening (from edge to edge). T.Chest pocket from neck point - Measure from high point of shoulder seam at neck to top of flap or welt.

Jeans/Pants/Shorts/Skirt

Jeans/Pants/Shorts/Skirt

A. Waist relaxed

Woven Bottom Jeans/Pants/Shorts/Skirt A. Measure along the centre of waistband. (Garment must be fastened)

B. Measure across hip at specified distance (usually 4" at centre front and side seams) below waist seam. B. High hip C. Measure across hip at specified distance (usually 8" at centre front and side C. Low hip seams) below waist seam. D. Fold garment with inseams matching. Measure across the garment from front D. Thigh crease to back crease at bottom of crotch seams. E. Fold garment with inseams matching. Specify distance (inches or cm) below E. Knee crotch seam along inseam. Measure straight across leg from front crease to back crease at indicated point. F. Leg opening F. Measure along the bottom of leg. G. Inseam G. Fold garment with inseams matching. Measure from cross of crotch seam straight along to the bottom of leg. H. Outseam H. Fold garment with inseams matching. Measure straight along seam line from I. Front rise bottom of waistband to bottom of leg opening. I. Measure from waist seam to crotch seam. If there is no waist seam, measure from J. Back rise top of the pants to crotch seam. K. Back pocket width J. Measure from waist seam to crotch seam. If there is no waist seam, measure from top of the pants to crotch seam. L. Back pocket depth K. Measure along the pocket opening (from edge to edge). M. Front pocket opening L. Measure from top edge down to bottom edge at centre of pocket M. Measure along pocket edge from waist seam to side seam, following the shape of N. Centre back length curve line. N. Measure waistband seam to the bottom hem. If there is no waistband, measure (for skirts ) from the top of skirt to the bottom hem.

O. Sweep (for skirts only)

O. Measure along the bottom edge of hem.

Blouse/Shirt

A.Across chest B. Chest/bust C. Bottom/sweep D. Total body length from high point of shoulder E. Shoulder seam F.Armhole (straight) G. Upper arm H. Sleeve (2" above cuff) I. Cuff opening J. Sleeve opening K. Sleeve length from shoulder L. Sleeve length from centre back M. Across shoulder N. Across back O. Centre back length P. Neck opening Q. Neck opening inside R. Front neck depth

Woven Top - Woven Shirt/Blouse A. Measure straight across front at narrowest point between armhole seams.

(Garment must be fastened) B. Measure straight across front body, 1" below armhole, from edge to edge C. Measure along the bottom edge of garment D. Measure from shoulder seam at neck straight down to the bottom edge of garment E. Measure from neck seam along shoulder to armhole seam. F. Measure straight from joint of shoulder seam at armhole to joint point of underarm seam at armhole. G. (1" below armhole), measure straight across sleeve seam, parallel to sleeve opening. H. Measure 2" above cuff or finished edge, straight across sleeve (from edge to edge), all pleats open. I. Measure at middle of cuff across sleeve from fold to fold with cuff closed J. Measure along the edge of sleeve. K. Measure from shoulder/sleeve seam along top to bottom edge of sleeve L. Measure from centre back neck seam across to shoulder seam, down to bottom edge of sleeve (Include cuff). M. Measure straight across back from shoulder/sleeve seam to shoulder/sleeve seam. N. Measure straight across back at narrowest point between armhole seams O. Measure from centre back neck seam, straight across to the bottom edge of garment. P. Measure along neck seam from centre front to centre back. S. Collar point to point Q. Measure from inside edge of collar straight across to opposite inside edge of collar. T. Neck circumference R. Create an imaginary line across neck at high point shoulder. Measure at centre front from the imaginary line to front neck seam. U. Chest pocket from neck point S. Measure along the outer edge of top collar from point to point. T. Measure from centre of button to the end of buttonhole along middle of collar band. V. Chest pocket from centre front U. Measure from high point of shoulder seam at neck to top of pocket. V. Measure from centre front to edge of pocket.

Knit Top

A. Chest/bust B. Bottom/sweep C. Upper arm D. Sleeve opening E. Armhole (curved) F. Total body length from high point of shoulder G. Sleeve length from shoulder H. Sleeve length from centre back I. Across shoulder J. Neck opening inside K. Front neck depth L. Chest pocket from neck point M. Chest pocket from centre front N. Minimum neck stretch

A. Measure straight across front body, I" below armhole, from edge to

Knit top

edge. B. Measure along the bottom edge of garment C. (1" below armhole), measure straight across sleeve seam, parallel to sleeve opening. D. Measure along the edge of sleeve. E. Measure from the joint point of shoulder seam at armhole to the Joint point of underarm seam at armhole, following the shape of curve line. F. Measure from shoulder seam at neck straight down to the bottom edge of garment G. Measure from joint of shoulder seam at sleeve to bottom edge of sleeve. H. Measure from centre back neck seam across to shoulder seam, down to bottom edge of sleeve. I. Measure straight across back from shoulder/sleeve seam to shoulder/sleeve seam. J. Measure from inside edge of collar straight across to opposite inside edge of collar. K. Create an imaginary line across neck at high point shoulder. Measure at centre front from the imaginary line to front neck seam. L. Measure from high point of shoulder at neck to top of pocket. M. Measure from centre front to edge of pocket. N. Stretch neck, do not overextend. Measure straight across the neck opening at neck seam inside edge to edge.

Final Inspection
It is the last inspection done before the buyer inspection All the buyer specifications are checked for1. Form Fit checking 2. Sewing- needle damages, sewing defects, assembly defects, quality of seam, placement of labels, cleanliness , correct trims 3. Measurements 4. Final handfeel and look 5. Packing and packaging

Final Inspection
Final inspection can be conducted under the following conditions : The quantity in carton boxes must be at least up to 80% of the total shipped quantity. The sewing or assembly process must be finished for the balance quantity (20% of the total shipped quantity).

Final Inspection
Types of final inspection
No inspection 100%inspection spot checking arbitrary sampling statistical sampling

Final Inspection
Spot checking - inspection of random shipments. Some shipments are inspected while others are not at all inspected
Arbitrary sampling - a certain percentage of shipment is inspected and the accept or reject decision is based on the inspection. A major drawback is that either too little or too much is inspected.

Final Inspection
Statistical sampling-is a system based on the theory that a given amount of samples drawn at random from the production lot will reflect the percent defective in the lot with certain tolerance limits for the percent defectives and within certain limits of probability.
Acceptance sampling plans are used in statistical sampling as a tool to determine the lot acceptance or rejection of the lot

Acceptance Sampling System

SAMPLING PLANS AND PROCEDURES FOR INSPECTION BY ATTRIBUTES

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4-2003 (ISO 2859-1) (MIL-STD 105E)

History
Standard military sampling procedures for inspection by attributes were developed during World War II. Army Ordnance tables and procedures were generated in the early 1940's and these grew into the Army Service Forces tables. At the end of the war, the Navy also worked on a set of tables. In the meanwhile, the Statistical Research Group at Columbia University performed research and outputted many outstanding results on attribute sampling plans. These three streams combined in 1950 into a standard called MIL-STD. 105A. It has since been modified from time to time and issued as 105B, 195C and 105D. MIL-STD. 105D was issued by the U.S. government in 1963.

In 1971, it was adopted by the American National Standards Institute as ANSI Standard Z1.4 and in 1974 it was adopted (with minor changes) by the International Organization for Standardization as ISO Std. 2859.

The latest revision is MIL-STD 105E and was issued in 1989, and was cancelled in February 1995 to reduce cost through the elimination of duplication. ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 is nearly identical to MIL-STD 105E.

Acceptance Sampling System

Acceptance sampling is used to determine whether to accept or reject a lot of material that has already been produced.
A lot is defined as a quantity of product accumulated under uniform conditions. For example, from one production line or machine.

Acceptance Sampling System Importance

Acceptance sampling
Do not provide any direct form of quality improvement. Not to inspect quality into the products, but rather as an audit tool to ensure that the output of a process conforms to requirements.

Acceptance Sampling System

Aim
To induce a supplier to maintain a process average at least as good as the specified Acceptable Quality Limit (AQL), whilst at the same time providing an upper limit for the risk to the consumer of accepting the occasional poor lot.

Acceptance Sampling System

Why not use 100% Inspection?
6 situations where 100% inspection is often not practical: When testing is destructive When inspection costs are extremely high When time or technology limitations are constraints When lot sizes are very large and the probability of inspection error is very high When supplier quality history is good enough to justify less than 100% inspection When potential liability risks are high enough to warrant some form of continuous monitoring

Acceptance Sampling System

Advantage
Less expensive because of less inspection. There is less handling of the products. It is applicable to destructive testing. Fewer personnel are involved in inspection activities. It often greatly reduces the amount of inspection error. The rejection of entire lots often provides a stronger motivation to the supplier for quality improvement.

Acceptance Sampling System

Disadvantage
Risk of accepting bad lots and rejecting good lots. Less information is usually generated. Acceptance sampling requires planning and documentation of the acceptance sampling procedure whereas 100% inspection does not.

Acceptance Sampling System >>> Risk

Decision

Accept the lots

Quality

Reject the lots Producers Risk O.K.

Acceptable Rejectable

O.K. Consumers Risk

Acceptance Sampling System

Definitions & Terminology

Sampling Plan: A sampling plan indicates the number of units of products from each lot or batch which are to be inspected (sample size or series of sample sizes) and the criteria for determining the acceptability of the lot or batch (acceptance and rejection numbers)

Inspection by Attributes: Inspection by attributes is inspection whereby either the unit of the product is classified simply as conforming or nonconforming (Good or Bad), or the number of nonconformities in the unit of products is counted, with respect to a given requirement or set of requirements.

Acceptance Sampling
Attribute sampling is usually based on Poisson statistics, where sample size and acceptance number (maximum number of BAD units in the sample) are specified. This generates an Operating Characteristic (OC) that is a plot of the probability of lot acceptance (or confidence level) vs. percent defective in the total lot from which the sample was randomly selected which take the form of Acceptance sampling charts or tables.

Acceptance Sampling System

Definitions & Terminology

Acceptable Quality Limit (AQL): The AQL is the quality level that is the worst tolerable process average when a continuing series of lots is submitted for acceptance sampling. (ANSI/ASQ Z1.42003) Also defined as- the maximum percentage defective that for the purpose of sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process average.

Acceptance Sampling System

Definitions & Terminology Inspection Level. The inspection level determines the relationship between the lot size and the sample size.

3 general inspection level I , II, III Level II is designated as normal and will be used unless another inspection level is specified. Level I requires about half the amount of inspection of inspection as level II, and is used when reduced sampling cost are required and a lower level of discrimination can be tolerated. Level III requires about twice the amount of inspection as level II, and is used when more discrimination is needed.
4 special inspection levels S1, S2, S3, S4 Use special inspection level when sample size must be kept small and larger sampling risks can be tolerated.

Acceptance Sampling System

Three Types of Sampling Plans
Single Sampling Plan. Double Sampling Plan. Multiple Sampling Plan.

Provisions for each type of sampling plan 1. Normal Inspection 2. Tightened Inspection 3. Reduced Inspection

Sampling Procedures for Inspection by Attributes (MIL-STD 105E, ANSI/ASQ Z1.4)

1. Determine the lot size 2. Choose the inspection level to obtain the desired sample size code letter 3. Determine the appropriate type of sampling plan to use (single, double or multiple) and the provision of the plan (single, tightened or reduced) 4. Enter the appropriate table with the desired AQL and sample size code letter to find the type of sampling plan to be used (sample size, acceptance and rejection number)

Sampling Procedures for Inspection by Attributes (MIL-STD 105E, ANSI/ASQ Z1.4)

Sample Size Code Letters
Special Inspection Level S-1 A A A S-2 A A A S-3 A A B S-4 A A B I A A B General Inspection Level II A B C III B C D

Lot or Batch Size 2 9 16 26 51 91 151 281 501 1,201 3,201 10,001 35,001 150,001 500,001
to to to

8 15 25 50 90 150 280 500 1,200 3,200 10,000 35,000 150,000 500,000

over

to to to

A B B

B B B

B C C

C C D

C C D

D E F

E F G

to to to

B B C

C C C

D D E

E E F

E F G

G H J

H J K

to to to

C C C

D D D

E F F

G G H

H J K

K L M

L M N

to to and

D D D

E E E

G G H

J J K

L M N

N P Q

P Q R

Sampling Procedures for Inspection by Single Sampling Plan For Normal Inspection ( Master Table Attributes (MIL-STD 105E, ANSI/ASQ Z1.4)
Sample size code letter A B C D E F G H J K L M N P 2 3 5 8 13 20 32 50 80 125 200 315 500 800 0 1 0 1 1 2 0 1 1 2 2 3 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2 1 2 2 3 1 2 2 3 3 4 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 Sample size 0.010 0.015 0.025 0.040 0.065 0.10 0.15 0.25

Acceptable Quality Limit (Normal Inspection)

0.40 0.65 1.0 1.5 2.5 4.0 6.5 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 10 15 25 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac 2 3 5 7

7 8 10

7 8 10 11 14

7 8 10 11 14 15 21

7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22

7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22

7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22

1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22

Single Sampling Plan

Select sample The decision to accept or reject the lot is made based on the results of a single sample

Inspect sample

Make decision

Double Sampling Plan

Select sample

Inspect sample

If there is not a clear accept/ reject decision from inspection of the first sample, a second sample is taken and the decision is made based on the results of the combined samples.
Make decision

Is sample clear accept or reject

Resample

Inspect Resample

Sampling Procedures for Inspection by Attributes (MIL-STD 105E, ANSI/ASQ Z1.4)

Example:A lot containing 12, 000 units is to be inspected using General Inspection Level II to a 2.5% AQL. Single sampling plan is to be used.

Sampling Procedures for Inspection by Attributes (MIL-STD 105E, ANSI/ASQ Z1.4)

Sample Size Code Letters
Lot or Batch Size 2 9 16 26 51 91 151 281 501 1,201 3,201 10,001 35,001 150,001 500,001
to to to Special Inspection Level S-1 A A A S-2 A A A S-3 A A B S-4 A A B I A A B General Inspection Level II A B C III B C D

8 15 25 50 90 150 280 500 1,200 3,200 10,000 35,000 150,000 500,000

over

to to to

A B B

B B B

B C C

C C D

C C D

D E F

E F G

to to to

B B C

C C C

D D E

E E F

E F G

G H J

H J K

to to to

C C C

D D D

E F F

G G H

H J K

K L M

L M N

to to and

D D D

E E E

G G H

J J K

L M N

N P Q

P Q R

Sampling Procedures for Inspection by Single Sampling Plan For Normal Inspection ( Master Table Attributes (MIL-STD 105E, ANSI/ASQ Z1.4)
Sample size code letter A B C D E F G H J K L M N P 2 3 5 8 13 20 32 50 80 125 200 315 500 800 0 1 0 1 1 2 0 1 1 2 2 3 0 1 0 1 1 2 1 2 2 3 2 3 3 4 3 4 5 6 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 Sample size 0.010 0.015 0.025 0.040 0.065 0.10 0.15 0.25

Acceptable Quality Limit (Normal Inspection)

0.40 0.65 1.0 1.5 2.5 4.0 6.5 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 10 15 25 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac 2 3 5 7

7 8 10

7 8 10 11 14

7 8 10 11 14 15 21

7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22

7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22

7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22

7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22

7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22

7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22

7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22

Acceptance Sampling System

Definitions & Terminology

Normal Inspection - Used at the start of the inspection activity. Tightened Inspection - Used when the vendors recent quality history has deteriorated (acceptance criteria are more stringent than under normal inspection) Reduced Inspection - Used when the vendors recent quality history ahs been exceptionally good (sample sizes are usually smaller than under normal inspection).

Acceptance Sampling System

Switching Procedures

Assignment 2
Students to select a set of 2 different defective garments. Each student needs to go through the garments and list down the defects. All garments need to be analyzed for all possible cutting room, sewing room, finishing room and fabric defects and their possible remedies. Class assignment to be completed on 1.12.10 and presented to class on 3.12.10 at 10.30 a.m Students will be marked individually for the selection of the garment and the analysis of the defects with their possible prevention method.

Buyers Audit criteria

BUYER Manual

Generally included areas

Fabric inspection, inline and final inspection procedures and formats to be used

Vendor contractual terms

Defect criteria and tolerances

Measurement criteriahow to measure

Packing ,labeling, shipping requirements

Meaning of AQL When a consumer designates some specific value of AQL for a certain nonconformity or group of nonconformities, it indicates to the supplier that the consumers acceptance sampling plan will accept the great majority of the lots or batches that the supplier submits, provided the process average level of percent nonconforming (or nonconformities per hundred units) that the consumer indicates will be accepted most of the time by the acceptance sampling procedures to be used. The sampling plans provided herein are so arranged that the probability of acceptance at the designated AQL value depends upon sample size, being generally higher for larger samples than for smaller one, for a given AQL.
The AQL alone does not describe the protection to the consumer for individual lots and batches, but more directly relates to what might be expected from a series of lots or batches, provided the steps indicated in this sampling procedures are taken.

Acceptance Sampling System

Definitions & Terminology

Percent nonconforming The percent nonconforming of any given quantity of units of product is one hundred times the number of nonconforming units divided by the total number of units of products, i.e.:
Percent nonconforming = number of nonconforming number of units inspected X 100

Acceptance Sampling System

Switching Procedures
Normal to Tightened. When normal inspection is in effect, tightened inspection shall be instituted when 2 out of 5 consecutive lots or batches have been non-acceptable on original inspection (i.e. ignoring resubmitted lots and batches for this procedure). Tightened to Normal. When tightened inspection is in effect, normal inspection shall be instituted when 5 consecutive lots or batches have been considered acceptable on original inspection.

Acceptance Sampling System

Switching Procedures
Normal to Reduced. When normal inspection is in effect, reduced inspection shall be instituted providing that the following conditions are satisfied:

a. The preceding 10 lots or batches have been on normal inspection and all have been accepted on original inspection; and
b. the total number of nonconforming units in the samples from the preceding 10 lots or batches is equal to or less than the applicable number given in the limit number sampling table. If double or multiple sampling is in use, all samples inspected should be included, not first samples only ; and c. Production is at steady rate; and d. Reduced inspection is considered desirable.

Acceptance Sampling System

Switching Procedures
Reduced to Normal. When reduced inspection is in effect, normal inspection shall be instituted if any of the following occur on original inspection:

a. A lot size or batch is rejected; or

b. A lot is consider acceptable under the special procedures for reduced inspection where the sampling procedure may be terminated without making a decision; or c. Production becomes irregular or delayed; or d. Other conditions warrant that normal inspection shall be instituted.

Acceptance Sampling System

Switching Procedures
Discontinuation of Inspection. In the event that 5 consecutive lots remain on the tightened inspection, inspection under the provisions of this standard should be discontinued pending action to improve the quality of submitted material.