The High Desert Regions of the Southwest

The High Desert area of the Southwest is experiencing population growth. Newcomers find that a home with a yard is affordable. But even for seasoned gardeners, planning, planting and maintaining that yard involves unique challenges. Defining the High Desert The high desert is a region of cold winters, strong winds and bright sun. It covers the areas around the cities of Mojave, Lancaster, Palmdale, Little Rock and Pearblossom, Apple Valley, Victorville, Hesperia and Barstow in California; Las Vegas and Reno, Nevada; Kingman, Wickenberg, Globe and Tucson, Arizona; as well as Albuquerque, Benson, Douglas and Las Cruces, New Mexico and El Paso, Texas.

Areas referred to as high deserts generally have an altitude above 2,000 feet and annual rainfall under 10 inches. This includes four Southwest deserts. They are defined by their characteristic vegetation: The Mojave (Joshua trees), The Great Basin (Great Basin sagebrush), The Arizona Uplands portion of the Sonoran (Saguaro cactus), and the Northern part of the Chihuahuan (Acacia). The drier portions of the Colorado Plateau are high desert as well.

According to the USDA Hardiness Map, this area is in Zones 7 and 8 with winter lows from 0-to-5 degrees F (Zone 7a) to 15-to-20 degrees F. (Zone 8b.) Higher elevations are colder.

In Sunset Publishing Company's Western Garden Book, which divides the Western US into 15 climate zones, it is defined as "Zone 10, High Desert areas of Arizona and New Mexico;" "Zone 11, Medium to high desert of California and Southern Nevada," and "Zone 12, Arizona's intermediate desert." Small portions of Southern Utah, Eastern Texas, Western Kansas and the Oklahoma Panhandle fall under these definitions as well. The Variability of High Desert Weather is Challenging in Several Ways. In some areas day-to-night swings of 50 degrees F are common. You might set out tomatoes on a day

that reaches 80 and next morning find frost damage. In Spring, alternating freezes and thaws can repeatedly coax buds to open too soon. Harsh, drying winds can come in summer or winter, intensifying the stressful effects of both cold and heat. Last-frost dates in Spring vary greatly from year to year. The dates for the first frost in fall also vary. Sun, Soil, Water, and the High Desert Garden Sunshine in the high desert is sometimes termed "triple strength" because of three factors: The thinner atmosphere lets through more heat, light and ultraviolet rays. The sun is seldom blocked by clouds, mist or shade trees. In many areas light-colored soil and structures reflect and intensify the sunlight. So gardeners find that many plants which are generally listed for full sun really need part shade in the desert.

Desert soils have a high pH (alkalinity) and can be sand or clay. Acidic (low pH) loamy soils result from the breakdown of organic matter. Where vegetation is scarce, organic matter is scarce. In addition to counteracting alkalinity, organic matter in the soil hosts beneficial microorganisms and provides a structure to retain both water and air. Sandy soils drain and dry out very quickly. Clay soils drain so slowly that they can become waterlogged. Both sand and clay soils benefit from the addition of organic matter such as manure or compost.

There is a difference in rainfall patterns in different parts of the Southwest. The rain in most of the Mojave Desert falls during the California rainy season of October-to-March. In contrast, rain in Arizona and New Mexico is divided between summer and winter because it's influenced by weather in both the Pacific and the Gulf of Mexico. Regardless of the timing, the rain isn't enough to support any plants except natives. For windbreaks, fruit. and shade trees, and vegetables, gardeners must irrigate--using water from deep wells, from local water districts, from streams and rivers that cut through the desert draining even higher elevations, or from springs or lakes that mark underground reserves. In most of the areas where there are cities. towns or agriculture there is ground water. Trees that are recommended for shade or for windbreaks are types that can, over time, develop deep roots and "find their own water." What Will Grow; Planning Your High Desert Landscape Evergreens: Hedges and windbreaks will create micro-climates. Choose from adapted pines, cypresses and junipers.

Shade Trees: Deciduous trees block the sun in summer but let it through in winter. Trees won't be fooled by early spring thaws and freezes include Texas Umbrella, Melia azedarach umbraculiformis; Desert Willow (Desert Orchid) Chilopsis linearis, and Black Locust., Robinia pseudoacacia

Flowers: Roses and Iris do very well in alkaline soil with part shade. Hardy bulbs for early spring bloom, are work well planted with local wildflowers that bloom through the spring. and into summer when watered.

Vegetables: Essentially all garden crops that are popular in temperate latitudes will grow in the high desert with irrigation and amended soil. Abundant sun can create exceptional flavor in corn, melons,

tomatoes, peppers, and cruciferous crops. Also see, A Planting and Harvest Calendar for the High Desert and Arid West.

Fruit and Nut Trees: Avoid varieties that have low chill requirements or that bloom very early in spring. Peaches, apricots and pears, especially "Bartlett" ripen to delicioous perfection. Also pistachios and grapes thrive in alkaline soil. For more details see, High Desert Gardening; Fruit and Nuts Can Be Rewarding. Strategies for Successful High Desert Gardening Tune in to native beauty. A yard in harmony with nature will be less trouble and less expensive to maintain. Choose ornamentals that are native or adapted plants. Start with windbreaks and shade trees. These will create micro-climates--protected areas that are comfortable for you and for the plants you choose to grow. Improve the soil. This is especially important for vegetable gardens. Get the timing right. This means knowing the climate, and knowing that it will vary. Bracket your plantings. For instance, set out some seedlings with covers before the last frost date; plant some right after that date; and keep some in reserve in case this year's last frost is late. Don't plant in hills or raised beds. the seedlings will dry out. Plant in furrows or depressions in sandy soil, and on level soil, if it is clay. Don't give up too soon. Don't listen if someone tries to tell you "nothing grows here." The fact is, you can grow almost anything in this climate. But it takes longer to learn because of it's variability and because it takes time grow effective windbreaks and shade trees and to work up fertile soil.