Engine disassembly and rebuilding

Brasal Juan
BEng motorcycle engineering year 1

DUCATI MONSTER 600

Manufacture year 1993

Contents
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Introduction .................................................................................................................................... 2 General (Specifications) .................................................................................................................. 2 Engine disassembly ......................................................................................................................... 3 Engine overhaul ............................................................................................................................ 44 Assembly ....................................................................................................................................... 55 Torque settings ................................................................................................................................. 55 6. References ........................................................................................................................................ 55

1. Introduction
The engine used for this assignment has been relinquished to Swansea Metropolitan University from Hertfordshire Superbikes Centre. The aim of this assignment is to present to the reader with the right procedure to disassembly, evaluate the state of the engine (engine overhaul) and reassembly it correctly within manufactures specifications. Components of the engine are going to be measured and compare it with the manufacture specifications, should any of the component out of tolerance, the will be replace. Disassembly and assembly procedure will also be described into detail for a Ducati monster 600, according to the service manual.

2. General (Specifications)
Desmodromic valve system:

Image 1 Ducati Desmodromic valve system is formed of two rocker arms, one on the top of the valve, which opens the valve and another one beneath it, which closes the valve. This system avoids using a spring to return the valve to the rest position, when it remains closed. This system reduces the force applied by the camshaft, reducing frictional forces and allowing the engine to turn with less effort. It also prevents the system from valve float. Therefore, the engine can be run faster.

Image 2 Oil system Diagram 1) 2) 3) 4) 5) 6) 7) 8) Oil pressure chart: Engine up to temperature 90 C Degrees: 1100 to 1300 Rpm 3500 to 4000 Rpm Engine running below 90 C Degrees: 1100 to 1300 Rpm 3500 to 4000 Rpm 1, 5 Kg/cm2 4 Kg/cm2 2, 5 Kg/cm2 5 Kg/cm2 Crankcases breather Oil cap Oil level indicator window Oil drain bolt Oil filter mesh and oil drain bolt Oil filter Oil pressure sensor Oil cooler

(Ducati, 1996)

3. Engine disassembly
For instances, the condition of the engine was not adequate to proceed with disassembling of the engine. Loads of debris and foreigner particles were attached to the body, cases and cylinders. Therefore, the engine was cleaned thoroughly with brake cleaner firstly to remove the biggest particles followed by a bath in the part washer. It is important to clean the outer cases of the engine in order to avoid any foreigner particles to get inside the engine and damage components.

Image 3 Only when engine is clean and free of derbies or foreigner particles attached to the body, it is appropriated to start dismantling the engine. Having drained engine oil, place the engine in a clean surface on top of a soft mattress to avoid any damage, secure it with an appropriate piece of wood or engine support (stand in image 6)* if available.

Image 4 Engine oil draining orifice

Image 5 Engine Oil strainer Clean the engine oil strainer before reassembling and replace the cooper washer.

*Image 6 Ducati Engine Stand In this particular case a Ducati engine stand was not available. Therefore, the engine was placed in the top of a work bench supported with appropriated pieces of wood.

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Image 8 For a full dismantling, it is recommendable to start from removing the clutch cover. It will allow us to locate the Clutch Hub holder tool into the clutch basket. This tool made out of friction and steel plates locks input shaft and clutch basket. This method makes easy to remove crankshaft nuts (flywheel and primary drive) plus clutch basket nut, it also allows us to remove timing gear nut, mostly all the fasteners of the engine.

Image 9 Clutch Hub Holder

Image 10 Clutch cover

Image 11 Clutch assembly, primary drive and oil pump Before being able to place the Clutch hub holder, it is needed to remove pressure plate, friction and steel plates from the basket. It is recommendable to remove oil pump to avoid any damage too. Recommendation: Place bolts and components from the same unit in independent labelled boxes or bags to avoid any confusion with other components and speed up the reassembly process (O-rings, washers, spring..)

Image 12 Oil pump removed Take a note of the location of different components such as; O-rings, dowels. Keep them together as a unit. At the middle of the clutch basket we find the clutch push rod. It is located inside of a ball bearing. To make you aware of servicing of this ball bearing that copes with radial and axial forces. Ball bearings are designed to cope with axial forces, but not much of radial forces. Therefore, this baring it should be a point to check in every maintenance service, it suffers from fatigue and in all cases collapses or seize. In my experience as a Ducati technician I have come across with this scenario in many occasions (especially with dry clutches where there is not lubrication). I recommend changing it every six thousand miles.

Image 13 Clutch push rod

Image 14 Clutch push rod and ball bearing

Image 15 Pressure plate removal Undo pressure plate bolts evenly in a star formation to avoid any damage to the hub. Remove pressure plate and springs that sit behind it. Bear in mind that in this particular engine the first friction plate is single sized and the disc pack is held in place by a retainer cir-clip. The hub actuates against it providing force to keep the whole pack together, giving drive.

Image 16 Remove Spring clutch

Image 17 Remove Clutch plates retainer.

Image 18 Remove clutch plates

Image 19 Clutch assembly Pressure plate, Push rod, Springs, Retainer, Single sided friction plate, Friction plate, Steel plate.

Having disassembly clutch plates and oil pump, locate the clutch hub holder in position to undo main engine bolts. Before undoing Primary drive nut bend the retainer washer back to allow rotation of the nut. a) b) c) d) Clutch Basket Primary gear Flywheel nut Timing Pulley (Timing belts side)

Image 20 Lock engine components Having the input shaft and clutch basket locked, undo Clutch nut, Timing belt puley nut and primary drive nut. In order to undo the primary nut it is needed to bend back the safety washer (use a thin chisel and a hammer to bend it). Turn the engine to the other side and undo flywheel nut.

Image 21 undo flywheel nut

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Imagine 22 main oil gallery O-ring Ducati uses a gear oil pump that sends the oil to the crankshaft through the clutch case, it is important to replace the mentioned O-ring everytime the clucht case is disturbed, to avoid oil pressure losses.

Image 23 Oil flow through the clutch case and clutch master cylinder actuator Oil flows from the clutch cover to the inside of the crank shaft providing hydronomic lubrication to the big end of the con-rods. Oil is also send to the cylinder heads trough the right hand side middle case to provide lubrication to camshafts and rocker arms. Oil also travels to an oil cooling radiator to keep oil cool. The system is completed by an oil filter which filters the oil before is sent to lubricate all the engine components. It is important to remember that the oil is hydroscopic. Consequently, the necesity to replace it within maintenace intervals. Oil is also sold with different viscosities to cope with high or low ambient temperatures. In this particular engine The clutch push rod is actuated by a hydraulic master cylinder *it is important to replace clutch fluid at least every two years, because the fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs water, which it is compressible. Therefore, clutch cannot be applied. Master cylinder can be appreciated in image 24. 11

Image 24 hydraulic clutch master cylinder, oil feed, bleeding nipple. In the image above it can be appreciated the master cylinder actuator, the oil feed orifice (Replace cooper washer every time the fastener is disturbed) and the nipple to bleed the system. Having loosen main engine bolts proceed to remove clutch assembly.

Image 25 Clutch assembly

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Image 26 Clutch Hub and spacer

Image 27 pressure plate

Image 28 Clutch basket *Keep clutch components together as a unit to avoid confusion and speed up the assembly process. -Remove primary drive. The gear is conic from the inside as the crankshaft is in the outside; they have an interference fit plus a woodruff key that locates the gear in the right place. It is recommendable to apply hit to the gear to help with the disassembly, using a hit gun. 13

Image 29 Apply hit to the gear

Image 30 Use an extractor to remove the gear In this particular engine a common extractor was not able to remove the gear from the shaft. Thus, a specific one was made to remove the unit.

Image 31 Hand-made extractor plate Two ordinary bolts were welded to the gear and a steel plate of 6mm thick was drilled to provide support against the shaft. By turning the nuts into the shaft some pressure was applied to the gear, then the plate was tapped on top of the shaft to provide some vibration on the shaft and gear to help to separate them.

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Having fully disassembly the right hand side of the engine, it is best to disassemble the left hand side of it. -Firstly, it is easy to remove the starter motor.

Image 32 Starter motor disassembly

Starter motor is attached to the case by three 6 mm bolts that can be removed from the inside of the flywheel cover. As it can be appreciated from the picture the starter idle gear is provided with an orifice to allow bolt removal without the need of removing the gear itself.

Image 33 Starter motor The starter motor is a DC voltage unit, it converts electricity into rotary motion (Mechanical torque). To produce this mechanical torque, DC current is supplied to an armature. The armature is situated in a magnetic field, crated by magnets. A commutator is provided to ensure steady direction of the flow.

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Having removed the starter motor, proceed to remove the magnet for the generator and the flywheel from the engine. In this particular Ducati engine they are different components. A combine unit is most commonly used for other manufactures.

Image 34 Generator coil, magneto and flywheel *Generator coils are bolted to the engine case and remain stationary. It is the magneto which turns with the movement of the crank-shaft.

Image 35 Engine cover, Generator coil location (bolted on with two 4mm bolts)

*Generator coil creates a 12 volts current with a power supply of 350 watts.

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-Remove pick up coils.

Image 36 Pick-up coils removal -Remove the coils attached to the supporting plate as a whole unit. It can be appreciated from the picture that the plate has got two slots that are used to adjust ignition timing.

Image 37 Pick-up coils reference points

The service manual of the bike does not make any reference to any particular adjustment of the coils, but marks shown in the picture would be the guidance in order to make any alterations in the ignition timing if needed.

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-Remove magneto and fly wheel.

Image 38 fly wheel, magneto, aligning marks For reassembling process take into consideration mark in the flywheel, which aligns with the woodruff key. It is used to adjust ignition timing with a strobe light from marks in outer part of the flywheel. Marks to adjust ignition timing.

Image 39 woodruff key, ignition timing marks

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Image 40 spacers

Keep spacers, washers and woodruff keys together to avoid confusion and speed up assembly process. Keep all the components in line as they are fitted on the engine, or attached together with a cable tie or a thin wire. In image 36 can be appreciated the right location for the flywheel, align the dot on the fly wheel against the woodruff key in the shaft. It is important to keep units align in order to maintain the right ignition timing. Flywheel is provided with a small dome that energizes the pick-up coils, which send a signal to the cdi at the right moment to provide the spark in each cylinder.

Image 41 Starting driven gear

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Image 42 Sprag clutch

Image 43 Sprag clutch The sprag clutch allows transmit drive to the gear only in one direction, so the flywheel overrun over it when the engine is running on its own. -Remove timing gear.

Image 44 timing gear, locking washer and Alignment marks *Bend back the looking washer before undoing the nut. Gear can be stopped from turning with a universal looking tool.

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*For reassembling purposes, bear in mind that the timing gear aligns with the crank shaft gear in order to provide correct camshaft timing, valves opening and closing time with regard position of the pistons.

Image 45 handmade looking tool

Image 46 universal looking tool

Image 47 Universal gear extractor Use a universal extractor to remove the gear from the shaft. -Remove the gearshift level system.

Image 48 Gearshift removal

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Image 49 Gearshift Level system It is worth considering that the leaver has a mark for reassembly proposes and the mounting orifices have a bigger diameter than the fasteners to allow slight movement of the leaver.

Image 50 Drum looking mechanism Undo the 21mm bolt at the back of the engine.

Image 51 drum locking mechanism 22

Image 52 gear box selector drum The ball is pushed against the slots of the side of the drum preventing it from overturning or jumping gears, it locates the drum into position in every gear through the gears changing. It is important to remove this component before separating the cases, in order to avoid any damage in the selector drum.

Image 53 Oil pressure valve cap Remove oil pressure relieve valve. It sends oil back to the oil sump in case of oil pressure goes higher than desired. (Refer to specifications)

Image 54 oil pressure valve relive 23

Remove timing pulleys nut and timing belts. In order to remove them there is needed a special socket, for castle nuts. This can be bought from the dealer or it can be fabricated out of a Hexagonal socket with the same diameter of the nut.

Image 55 Timing belts cover removal

Image 56 Hand-made castle nut socket

Image 57 Undo All three Castle nuts

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-Remove timing belts and pulleys.

Image 58 Timing pulleys to camshaft alignment

Make a record of the position of the timing gears before disassembly to speed up the process when reassembly the engine. The dots from the gears must be aligned with the marks in the cases for assembling purposes, to maintain engine timing correct.

Image 59 Ducati timing pulley locking tool and castell nut socket In this particular case a handmade tool was used, fabricated by Luca Pagano and Juan Brasal.

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Image 60 Timing pulleys removal *Keep all components together as a whole unit, to avoid confusion and speed up the reassembly procedure.

Image 61 Timing pulleys removal *Pulleys are located in position against the shaft by a woodruff key, this allows to set up the timing very accurately. There is also the possibility of replacing them with offset woodruff keys to modify admission and exhaust timing.

Image 62 Double timing pulley 26

Bear in mind that the timing lay-shaft has two pulleys to provide drive to both belts, horizontal and vertical cylinder. Carefully remove both of the pulleys keeping track of the position of the spacers.

Image 63 Offset woodruff key

Image 64 Non modify engine Timing

Image 65 Engine timing modify with an offset woodruff key

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In a brief description of what is achieved by the offset woodruff keys, I would say that the inlet valves open a bit earlier to fill the cylinders with an extra amount of air and fuel mixture. Offset woodruff keys are also used to compensate accumulation of machining tolerances. However, there is a full article that can be read in extension to this explanation. The link is in the reference section of this assignment.

Image 66 Timing belts tension adjusters

Image 67 Tension adjusting bolt

Adjusters are provided with a big slot that allows them to rotate to provide the right belt tension. The tension is measured by an ultrasonic device that reads the amount of vibrations in the belts by Hz, in this particular engine it is a 90Hz value. There is the possibility to adjust them by applying a determined torque setting to the belt tensioner, 15Nm. The Adjuster applies force at the back of the timing belt by interference with two roller bearings, there is supportive bearing in front of the tensioner to keep the belt in place and avoid vibrations. Check bearings for wear every service, twist the inner race against the outer race and check for play and roughness when it turns.

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-Remove both timing belt adjuster component and the cover behind the camshaft pulley to gain access to the head-cylinder bolts.

Image 68 Dust protector -Remove dust covers behind the timing pulley from both head-cylinders.

Image 69 Head-cylinder removal -Remove all four nuts from the top of the Head-cylinder in diagonal to avoid any distortion in the head. Follow the same pattern when tightening.

Image 70 Oil passages and O-ring 29

-it is important to keep records of the oil passages and O-rings location, to avoid any leak replace them every time seals are disturbed. It is noticeable that there is not Head-cylinder gasket as such, to avoid any leaks from the combustion chamber. In this case Ducati uses an interference fitment, cylinder is built with a lip that slides inside the combustion chamber and seals it.

Image 71 Cylinder top

Image 72 Head-cylinder

*Ensure both surfaces are cleaned and fit without difficulty.

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-Remove cylinders from middle cases.

Image 73 Cylinder Barrels Make a note of the position of the cylinders. As it can be appreciated from the picture the air cooling fins are built in different directions to achieve the best cooling possible. The cylinder on the right sits horizontally in the engine and the one on the left stays on the top of the cases vertical to the plane. Take into consideration oil passages, ensure that they are free from debris and the position of the Orings and sizes. Red arrows represent return path for the oil to come back from the head-cylinders to the oil sump. However, the yellow arrows represent the oil feed passages to the head-cylinder to lubricate camshafts and rocker arms. The passages are smaller in this case to provide a higher oil pressure.

Image 74 Remove Pistons from the con-rods -Remove the cir-clip that holds the goudgeone pin in place.

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Image 75 Gudgeon cir-clip *It is very important to replace the cir-cilps ones they have been disturbed, they are critical components that are forced in and out the groove inside the piston. Therefore, they loss their strength by being squashed and pushed. In this particular engine the cir-clips have a tongue which sits in a slot in the piston to stop it from turning. As a general rule they must be fitted with the open end facing up or down the piston. This is due to the high velocities the piston moves changing direction suddenly, if cir-clips are fitted with their open end facing to the side there is the risk, they compressed and be push out from their groove.

Image 76 Cylinder bore base gasket *Replace Cylinder bore base gasket every time it has been disturbed to avoid any leaks.

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-Remove Neutral position sensor from the back of the engine

Image 77 Neutral Switch

Image 78 Selector Drum Neutral switch operating ball *When neutral is selected in the gearbox, the ball located in the selector drums pushes the neutral switch nob in and closes the electrical circuit operating the neutral light.

-Having removed the neutral switch from the engine, engine cases are ready to be pulled apart. Undo the crank cases bolts diagonally in stages to avoid any distortion in the cases, make a note of the location of the bolts, they vary in length and diameter. It will help to speed up the reassembling process. Bolts can be placed in a cardboard in the same position the fit in the engine

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Image 79 8mm Crankcase bolts (Remember to undo 6mm bolts from the bottom of the engine, not shown in the picture) Having removed all the cases bolts split the cases with an engine cases removal tool. If the special tool is not available a nylon hammer can be used to separate the cases. Tap on the end of the crankshaft, output shaft and timing shaft until cases start opening. The cases will separate easily by hand, ones the shafts are off the bearings. If they are difficult to separate apply heat to the main bearing and output shaft bearing inner races.

Image 80 Right hand side cover

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Image 80 Left hand side crank case cover *When cases are separated, make sure that all the components remain in the right hand side cover, it is their natural location. -Remove gear selector forks by removing their locating pin off the case. They usually come out by hand, but if an extra amount of force is needed a pair of pliers can be used, protect the faces of the pin with a cloth. Having removed the gear selector forks the gear selector drum and gearbox can be removed too.

Image 81 Selector fork locating pin

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Image 82 Gear box assembly

Image 83 Selector forks and gear box (Input and output shaft)

-Dog Clutch: A clutch has the property to connect or disconnect the power produced by the engine from the manual gearbox, a dog clutch is a simple way to provide drive, by connecting two gears together. A dog clutch does not provide a progressive connecting transmission system. Therefore, a friction clutch is needed prior the dog clutch to ensure a smooth gear change between gears.

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Image 84 dog clutch second gear

Image 85 dog clutch second gear

Image 86 Gear selector fork fourth and fifth

Image 87 Gear selector forks first, second, third

Image 88 Third gear From image 86, 87 and 88 can be appreciated how the forks fit into the gears. The gear selector fork fits inside the gear groove from its open end. At this point the clearance is crucial, to ensure the right displacement of the gear on the shaft for a correct engagement. By moving the gear side to side, a different gear is engaged providing drive to the selected gear.

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Image 89 Gear selector drum

Image 90 Gear selector fork

The gear selector forks are located in the engine by a pin trough the small close end. As it can be appreciated from image 90 at the end of this mentioned end there is a knob, which fits inside the grooves in the gear selector drum. When the gear lever is moved by the rider, the gearshift lever rotates the gear selector drum. The Drum has three grooves in its body to locate each knob of the selector fork. Each groove has a specific pattern to move the forks in the right order. When the forks move, they slide gears from side to side of the input and output shaft. Some of the gears in the shaft rotate freely and others drive the shaft. All of them have dog clutches, which connect one to another. Giving drive to different gears on the shaft, in order to use different gear ratios. -Remove engine timing shaft and crankshaft by tapping them with a nylon hammer.

Image 91 Crankshaft and engine timing shaft *Pay special attention to the shims installed in the engine timing shaft and crankshaft, they are made in specific measurements to compensate the clearance in between shafts and cases. It is important to record the position of each of them.

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Image 92 Crankshaft shims *Having disassembled the engine completely, clean every component for accurate measurements. -Cylinder-head:

Image 93 Camshaft cover removal Remove the four bolts holding camshaft cover to extract rocker arms locating pins for and camshaft for inspection. Replace cover gasket before reassembly and check bearing for play or roughness.

Image 94 Camshaft bearing

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Image 95 Camshaft, Closing and opening rocker arm locating pin -Remove rocker arms locating pin. Locating pins have an aperture in the end of it, which have been tapered to fit a special Ducati tool.

Image 96 Ducati locating pin extractor Screw the end of the tool in the locating pin and use the slide hammer incorporated in the tool to extract the pin. Be aware of the shims inside the pin to locate the rocker arm in the right position on top of the valve and to remove the spring that holds them in place.

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Image 97 spring, shim and valve retainers *Notation: There is no need to remove rocker arms to remove valve or correct valve shims. By removing the locating spring the rocker arm can be pushed away to the side to gain full access to both shims.

Image 98 closing rocker arm, shims and locating pin

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-In order to remove the valve from the valve guide, it is needed to push the closing rocker arm down and take the valve retainers off. This can be done with a screw driver pushing down the rocker arm. If we want to preload the rocker arm to release us from being pushing down the arm a suitable object can be inserted on the side of the arm to hold it down, while we operate in the end of the valve.

Image 99 Closing rocker arm, valve retainers groove and closing shim

Image 100 Valve retainers *It is important to check and replace the valve retainers every service interval, because they suffer from fatigue and with time they are squashed by the motion of the rocker arm and forces applied to close the valve. Thus, when we adjusting valve clearances it is important to take them into consideration. By replacing the retainers our measurement may vary between 0.01 to 0.003mm

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Image 101 Valve shim retainer (Ducati.MS, 2014)

Image 102 Camshaft Opening valve lobes and closing valve lobes

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4. Engine overhaul
This section contain the procedure followed to assess the engine and data obtained from the measurements. This data will be compare with manufacture specs. It will also be detailed all the critical parts that should be replaced in every engine rebuilt such as gaskets, bearings and any circ-clip (fasteners). I enclose a part list. o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o Head cylinder set (inspection covers) x4 Clutch cover gasket. Camshaft cover gasket x2 Cylinder base gasket x2 Crank cases gasket. Main bearings x2 Gear box bearings X2 (input and output shaft) Timing shaft bearings x2 Camshaft bearings x6 Output shaft oil seal. Timing shaft oil seal. Camshaft seal x2 Intake valve seals x2 Exhaust valve seals x2 Oil pump O-ring x2 Timing belts x2 Timing belt pulleys (adjusting tensor) x2 Valve retainers x8 Cylinder oil passages O-rings x5 Cylinder head Closing valve rocker arm x1 Rocker arm axle x1 Closing shims x2 Opening shims x3 Exhaust valve. Inlet valve x2 Valve guide x4 Exhaust valve seat. Cylinder Horizontal bore cylinder x1 Piston x2 Piston ring set x2 Gudgeon pin retainers x4 Crankshaft Shell bearings x4

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When assessing an engine it is easier to look for obvious faults. In this particular engine, it has been found a broken exhaust valve seat, this will cause compression loss due to valve leak. Valve seat must be replaced with the exhaust valve as a pair to ensure perfect sealing between valve and valve seat.

Image 103 Faulty valve seat To replace the valve seat to cut the old seat is needed. Having removed the valve seat, heat the cylinder-head up to 200 centigrade degrees to expand it and push the new seat into the valve seat orifice. -Timing belts need to be replaced due to ageing and lack of service records.

Image 104 Timing belts In order to assess an old timing belt, look for cracks in the inside part of the belt by bending it outwards and check that the part number can be seen.

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-To replace the timing belts align marks in the belt pulleys against mark in the cases. Take into consideration that the vertical cylinder would be in the intake stage. Therefore, the camshaft is loaded by the return spring from the closing rocker arm. There is the possibility of the camshaft spin by itself, make sure it is located in the right position when reassembling the new belt. Having placed all the pulleys against their respective marks in the cases undo the belt tensioner bolts to release the pressure off the belts.

Image 105 Camshaft and timing gear alignment

-Check valve clearance before reassembling cylinder-heads. To check clearances bring the piston to TDC in the power stroke, when valves remain close *(with cylinder-head assembly) Engine must be cold to check clearances.

Image 106 Clearance check closing rocker arm

Image 107 Clearance check opening rocker arm

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Opening rocking arm: Inlet: 0.10to 0.12mm Exhaust: 0.12 to 0.15mm Closing rocking arm: Inlet and exhaust: 0.03 to 0.05mm (Ducati, 1996) *Correct clearances if they diverge from manufacture specifications. To correct shim size accurately, check the actual clearance measurement taken from the cylinder-head and add the size of the actual shim. Subtract the clearance desired from the result, the size of the shim needed will be given in the result of the subtraction. Example: Actual clearance: 0.08mm + Actual shim size: 2.80mm = 2.88mm Clearance desired 0.10 result from first addition 2.88 = 2.78mm size of the replacement shim. *Valve clearances have not accurately been measured in this particular due to the lack of components. -Check axial play between valve and valve guide.

Image 108 Valve axial play check Support cylinder-head firmly in a vice without damaging the surfaces. Place a DTI gauge against the open valve. Ensure the valve is fully inserted in the valve guide. Push the valve from side to side and record the reading from the DTI gauge. Clearance should not be greater than the one specified in the manufactures specifications. Stem to guide fit is critical to valve temperature. Any significant wear, can increase valve temperature by 100 centigrade degrees with a consequent loss in strength. Maximum allowed clearance: 0.08mm (Ducati, 1996) *If the clearance exceeds specifications valve and valve guide must be replaced as a pair. 47

Actual measurement from the engine: Horizontal Cylinder-head: Intake: 0.13mm Exhaust: 0.10mm (Regardless the reading, valve must be replaced due to damage in the valve seat) Vertical Cylinder- head: Intake: 0.12mm Exhaust: 0.12mm -Check pistons, piston rings and cylinders for wear.

Image 109 Cylinder bore check Check for smoothness in the wall of the cylinder. Measure the cylinder bore diameter at three different levels, with the help of a telescopic gauge at 90 degrees. Take the measurement from it with a micro-meter. Max wear limit for scoring: 0.01mm Max taper wear: 0.015mm (Ducati, 1996) *Vertical cylinder shows great signs of wear on its wall (scored). *Cylinder bore measurements. Service limit: 80mm. Vertical cylinder: 1st measurement: 79.38mm 2nd measurement: 79.98mm 3rd measurement: 80.02mm Horizontal Cylinder: 1st measurement: 80mm 2nd measurement: 79.98mm 3rd measurement: 80mm

*I recommend replaceing both cylinders or replated with a new layer of nicasil. 48

Image 110 Horizontal piston

Image 111 Horizontal Cylinder -Measure piston diameter with a micro-meter.

Image 112 Piston diameter check 49

Check the piston visually for signs of scratches or scoring. Clean the crown and piston ring slots thoroughly. It must be measured at 10mm from the base perpendicular to the Gudgeon pin axis. *Vertical and horizontal piston shows signs of scoring and several scratches. Thus I recommend to replaced them as a pair with the cylinder bore.

-Gudgeon pins must be perfectly smooth, without scoring, steps or bluish stains due to overheating. Which in this case are.

-Take measurements from piston rings.

Image 113 Piston rings clearance

Slide piston ring inside the cylinder bore and push it down with the base of the piston to the contact patch of the piston ring. With the help of a filler gauges set, measure the gap between both ends of the ring. When reassembling piston rings look for the top sign on it, make sure you fit it inside the piston facing upwards. Wear limit. -1st piston ring: 0.8mm -2nd piston ring: 0.8mm -3rd piston ring: 1.0mm Readings from the engine: Vertical cylinder: 1st ring: 1.11mm 2nd ring: 1.11mm 3rd ring: 1.11mm Horizontal cylinder: 1st ring: 0.92mm 2nd ring: 0.92mm 3rd ring: 1.00mm

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-Measure the clearance between cylinder bore and piston.

Image 114 Clearance between cylinder bore and piston Slide a filler gauge in between the piston and Cylinder and make a record of the measurement, the gauge must slide in and out smoothly without much resistance. Max clearance: 0.12mm Horizontal cylinder: 0.16mm -Connecting rod shell bearings. Check clearance between con-rod and camshaft with plastic gauge, the clearance should not exceed 0.9mm. If so replace bearings for new set. *It is recommendable to replace con-rod shell bearing every time the engine is overhauled. Measure Main journal with a micro-meter and the connecting rod with the aid of a telescopic gauges to extract the right measurements. Crankshaft is provided with to different measurements A and B Vertical Cylinder: 0.157mm

Image 115 Main journal table

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-Main bearings replacement procedure and crankshaft shimming. Every time main bearings are replaced there is the need to shim the crankshaft with the right tolerances. Heat the cases with the aid of a heat gun to allow the cases to expand, it will make easy to extract the bearing from the case. Tap the bearings out with a chisel and a hammer. In order to fit new bearing heat the cases again and tap the new bearing in. you can use the old bearing on top of the new one to avoid any harm to the new bearing, or a socket of the same size of the outer races can be used to tap the bearing in too. After fitting the new main bearings proceed to shim the crankshaft. 1st measure A dimension to determine the width of the shaft wedges. 2nd measure depths P1 and p2 distance between the half cases surface and the internal bearing races. Add a 0.15mm for the depth of the gasket. Considering there is the need of 0.15mm preload for the bearings to settle down into the cases, we will add 0.30mm plus 0.15mm. Total of 0.45mm 3rd calculate S Total end float of the cases. S= (P1+P2+0.45)-A 4th calculate the sizes of a single shim: S=S1+S2 Thus, considering the shaft alignment. S1= (P1+0.15(bearing preload) + 0.075(gasket))-(A/2) Therefore: S2= S-S1

Image 116 crankshaft shimming 52

*Use the same formula to calculate shims in the gearbox shafts (input and output shaft)

Image 117 P1 and P2 measurement

Image 118 A measurement

Image 119 Crankshaft shim 53

-Oil pump inspection.

Image 120 Oil pump main body Play between gears and gears to the pump body must not exceed 0.10mm Actual reading: 0.07mm

Image 121 Oil pump assembly Play between between gears and cover must not exceed 0.07mm Actual reading: 0.03mm (Ducati, 1996) 54

5. Assembly
In order to reassemble the engine, invert the disassembly process taking into consideration torque settings and specific notes for reassembly.

Torque settings
Alternator nut 157 Nm Alternator stator bolts 8-10 Nm Brake banjo bolts 17-20 Nm Brake caliper joining bolts 33 Nm Cam belt pulley nuts on camshafts 70-75 Nm Cam belt pulley nut on driveshaft 60-65 Nm Cam belt driveshaft gear nut 40-45 Nm Clutch housing, 900 and early 750 30-34 Nm Clutch nut 137-147 Nm Clutch hose union bolts 17-20 Nm Connecting rod big end 1st stage 20 Nm 2nd stage 35 Nm 3rd stage 63.5-68.5 Nm Crankcase bolts M8 23-25 Nm 8-10 Nm

M6 Cylinder head nuts 1st stage 15 Nm 2nd stage 30 Nm 3rd stage 900 w/ old studs 41-43 Nm 3rd stage 600/750 and 900 w/ new studs 38-40 Nm

(Ducati, 1996)

6. References
-Bluming 2014, Ducati Desmodromic valve system wallpaper, Viewed 10 February 2014, http://www.bluming.com/ducatidesmo.htm -Ducati851and888.com forum, viewed 12 of March 2014 http://www.ducati851and888.com/showthread.php?5871-Offset-keys -Ducati up north, the black mystic art of cam timing! Viewed 12 of March 2014, http://www.ducatiupnorth.com/tech/camtiming.php -Ducati service manual, Ducati Monster 600 workshop manual, Ducati Motor holding, 1996. -DUCATI.MS forum, Valve collets and Split rings, Viewed 28 of March 2014, http://www.ducati.ms/forums/56-superbikes/57640-valve-collets-split-rings.html

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