BT male guide Armor [BILLEDE 1]

Step 1: Basecoat I dont use 2k-basecoats on my Templars. I use one or two thin layers of GW Chaos Black from the spray can. Step 2: Removing the black gloss I dont like the glossy black of GWs Chaos Black Spray, but I really love how it sticks to the plastic. Thats why I use it. To remove the gloss, I mix a very watered down mix of Revell Aqua Color Matt Black (you can use Chaos Black instead if you dont have any of those Revell colors). Then I add some small drops of Badab Black and a tiny brushtip of Graveyard Earth. The mini gets a 2nd thin basecoat with that mix and all of the gloss should be gone. Great. A positive side effect wil be that the next layers of color will stick better to your mini :-) Step 3: Pre-defining Lightreflexes As I find it really hard to get smooth transitions when painting light colors on black I try to do this step quite quickly achieving a rough base for light-reflexes in the later process of painting. I mix a watered color of milky consitency from Adeptus Battlegrey, a little bit of Kommando Khaki, some Bleached Bone and a tiny little droplet of Badab Black. Sorry, there is no exact recipie as I always mix my colors indiviually, so that there are always minor differences in color tones to represent, that some of them are more worn-off than others. Well, as you can see in the picture, apply this mix generously to the surfaces that shall get a black to grey transition late on. When you have finished this step, your minis will look really messy. Dont worry, thats about to change in step 4... Step 4: Defining light-reflexes and smoothing the transitions Now its time to use the rests of your mix from step 2. I put layer after layer over the areas that have to get darker again. Therefore its important to use the "flat" side of the brush with little paint on it only. The strokes must be directed towards the darker regions of the part thats being painted. This is really time consuming. Dont overdo it, because, then youll have to counterpaint with lighter color again. Theres another reason not to overdo this: Most likely youll add some battledamage later. Nevertheless, try to get smooth transitions and its quite helpful to put the mini under harsh white light form above and take some photos if you arent sure where to put the centre of light reflexes... Once the smoothing is finished, add some more chaos black to your color mix, to make it a harder black again and put some blacklining into the darkest corners of your mini. Finelining/ accentuation and battledamage will be the subject of the next armor tutorial.

Battle Damage [BILLEDE 2]

Step 1: Accentuating the edges Having finished the light reflexes on the surfaces its time for accentuating the edges of the armour. Therefore I use a mix of Fortress Grey and Bleached Bone which is watered down a little bit, but not to "runny". So paint with the flat side of the brush and only little amount ouf color around all important edges an put some dots onto the rivets. Be careful to make the accents as narrow and decent as possible! Step 2: Sponge(bob) technique I used to use an old blister sponge for this, but in the times of "fine"cast its quite hard to get your hands on those :-(. My wife uses some yellow square kitchen sponges for washing up (really looking much like Spongebob [I mean the sponge, not my wife!!!]). Those are great surrogates. I tear of a little bit, take it with the pincers and dip it into pure, unthinned Chaos Black. Then I remove the recesses by pressing it onta some kitchen paper, before carefully, I repeat CAREFULLY, applying my battledamage to the armour by dipping the sponge onto the surfaces. Really: BE CAREFUL! You dont want to destroy your work youve done before. On the other hand, battledamage is quite helpful to cover minor mistakes at the light reflexes. Great. If you want to have a more scratchy look, then you can use a detail brush to paint on some more damagey by hand. Step 3: Accentuating the battledamage Now you apply thin lines (the thinner, the better!) directly under the black dots and scratches. Therefore you should use the mixture of Step 1 of this tutorial. Et viol, battledamage is finished. Surely you could go further, adding some rusty pigments or start with oil colors so that the damage looks older and more grimy. But I dont want that on my templars and so, its time to stop here and finish all the other details on the mini :-)

Baser del 1 [BASER 1]

Step 1: Preparations Well, this is some work for outside as it is dirty and the superglue stinks. So you need: +cork: The cork I use comes from IKEA where you get it as about 1 cm thick discs that you put under hot cooking pots. Its really cheap.

+sharp cutter knife +bases +sand & small stones: Sand for bird cages mixed with some rougher grained sand is great. The stones are thought for decorations at home and I bought them at some 1--store. +bits: some small bits are nice ammendments to your base decorations. I mainly use ork bits or the GW Skull Pack. Helmets and lost guns work well too. +superglue: I know I could also use PVA glue, but superglue works better and faster. Nevertheless, the GW stuff is too expensive for this work. I use some really cheap superglue from a German Hardware Company. 8 gramms for about 1,25 $. The downside is, that I has got a strong acidic stink which is typical for all those superglues. So going outside and letting the stuff dry outside should be better for your health than having it next to your bed, I guess. Step 2: preparing the cork I break the cork plates into smaller pieces about the size or slightly smaller than the bases that should get some love. As 1 cm (about 2/5 Inch) is too thick I cut the cork pieces CAREFULLY (mind your fingers!!! ) in two, thus getting two almost identical pieces about 4-5 mm thick. Perfect. Next I put some superglue onto the downside ( the smooth side) of the cork pieces. The cork will soak it up and in about 5 minutes, the superglue will be hardened. Step 3: glueing the cork onto the bases After the superglue has dried on the smooth side of the cork pieces I put on some more superglue onto the same spots - Im quite generous with the superglue here in fact. Then put it onto the base and press the pieces together for some seconds. If you have some smaller pieces of cork you can put on a little cork mosaic and youll get some really interesting looking base. Once the cork pieces stick firmly to the bases I use my fingernails to roughen up the cut surface of the cork or take away disturbing flocks of it. But dont overdo it. The trimming and fixing will be done, once you have decided which miniature you will put on. Step 4: Sand, stones , bits Its time to put some glue onto the plastic areas of the base you can still see. I dont do it for the full base at a time but rather do it in quarters, preventing sticky fingers or glue running of the surface onto the sides of the bases. Then I put some small stones randomly onto the glue and after that (without new glue!!!) I let some sand "rain" into the gaps. Maybe youll have to do several layers , if you want it to get higher. If you want to include bits, just glue the bits to the surface and again let some sand rain onto the glue. Your bits will stick better to the base like that and it looks more natural. If you do several layers give your glue some minutes to harden between each layer.

Step 5: hardening As cork is a quite soft material, and you surely dont want to get damaged during "duty" (meaning when playing the mini), its necessary to harden the cork. Put some drops of superglue onto the cork (all over the cork but not onto the sand!!!). The cork will again soak up all the glue and get hard as a rock - almost. If you have really big pieces of cork as maybe on a 60mm base, you should repeat the step once or even twice. But dont overdo it as your rock might lose precious details. Now you should let it dry for about 12 hours or even better a day (outside!!!).

Baser del 2 [BASER 2]

Step 1: Preparations I recommend doing this outside. what youll need... +cork: some small leftovers should be sufficient this time +miniatures & prepared scenic bases +drill & steelpins: I use small nails as pins +nippers: for cutting the steel pins +sand & small stones +bits: for me this means skulls... +superglue Step 2: Drilling the mini Drill a hole about 1/2 Inch deep into one of the feet. Be careful not to drill right through your minis leg! Step 3: Glue in the pin Glue in the pin with some superglue and let it dry for some minutes. Step 4: Glue mini to the base and fix gaps Mark the spot where you need to drill through the base for the pin by pushing the pin onto the base wher the hole should go to. Measure the approximate length for the pin. It must go right through the plastic of the base to be really locked to it!!! The shorten the pin with the nippers. You can now glue the mini to the base adding sume superglue to the contact surfaces of the feet and the pin. By bending it carefully you can

adjust the positioning of your mini on the base. There will surely be some gaps between feet and base decoration. No Problem, but first let the mini rest for some minutes to give the glue some time for setting. Then you can close the gaps by putting tiny drops of superglue into them and filling it with the sand. Bigger gaps can easily be filled with small chunks of cork and superglue. Whe thats done I add some skulls or other bits. After about a night of drying outside, the mini should be ready for priming. Viol!

TABARDS
First layer is a watered down mix of bestial brown, kommando Khaki, tiny drop of hawk turquise, Fortress Grey and Codex grey. Then I divide the mixed color in two spots and add some more Badab Black and chaos BLack to one half of the mix for the shadows and some Bleached Bone to the other half for the highlights. You can stick to Kommando Khaki + Codex Grey if you want to keep it a little easier. Will do only minor difference.

HURTIG GUIDE
The red glow is a "simple" OSL with "external" light source on the underside of the mini, done with watered down scab red. The bones are a unique, by accident mix. Cant really remember. Tabard is kommando khaki + black for the shadows. Shoulders are skull white over fortress grey + calthan brown. Metal for the Contemptor sword is Boltgun metal shaded with a mix of blue, brown, black ink.

Sorry, being more precise would take hours of typing...

Q:
1) What size/scale is the chain used on the terminators; Where'd you get it from? 2) The skulls used on your bases, where are they from? 3) Who did your terminator tabards? I'm going to need a pro to do some chaplain sculpting and your sculptor is clearly a master 3a) After reading through VERY carefully, I noticed your link to the sculptor, but there's no way to contact him 4) Do you use metallics or NMM? For instance, the gold on your Emperor's Champion's left shoulder pad looks NMM, but the sword hilt looks metallic.

A:
1) chains: theres a german webshop called "battlefield berlin" where you can buy them. Theyre called "ankerketten". Sorry, but cant remember their exact size. Just have a look on the net for chains for miniature boats. 2) Skulls: ebay is your friend. Pretty cheap. I used the GW skulls before but these are by far better... The shipping was pretty quick as well. Good buy. 3) Tabards: Gregor isnt cheap. But he is one of the best. The quality is worth the money, otherwise I wouldnt ask him to do anymore conversions for me as Im a very critical customer... :-) Send me a PM and Ill give you his e-mail-address :-) 4) Metals: Well, I dont like the looks of NMM on my minis. Looks good but doesnt fit my hopefully more realistic approach of painting. Nevertheless I use certain elements of NMM as I mix my metallic colors with normal colors for example burnished gold + a drop of bleached bone for the base color, than I wash it with dark soothy brown-black color stuff, put on some highlights with the base color, add some white to the mix for the highest peaks, wash again with a mix of ogryn flesh and delan mudd and then lend it some more depth with a devlan mud & badab Black mix to the shadowy areas... I hate painting gold and in fact I dont I prefer some kind of bronze optic :-) Dont like it shiny. For steel I add various grey tones. Sorry, dont really have recipes as I always mix my colors as I feel that day (like a little boy happily playing in the mud.)

jne (Fra anden kilde)

I basically started with a sloppy base coat of Scab Red on the eye and the surrounding area, no need to be precise. Then I highlighted the eye itself with Red Gore like normal and then the edges of the surrounding area. Tightening up the highlights I went with Blood Red again on the eye and then again the edges of the surrounding areas. A quick small highlight of Blazing Orange again focusing on the upper most edges. Then a very small highlight of White at the highest/center edges. Just a small dab nothing crazy. You can then wash the very farthest edges of the glow with a wash of the base color of the armor. So for example with my Ultramarines I used Asurman Blue watered down to tone down the edges and give it a more natural look. You can also do a slight watered wash of Baal Red to the eyes around the 2nd or 3rd step (I didn't have any at the time when I did my Ultras) The biggest thing to remember is to just experiment and have fun with it. And keep the highlighting on the edges around the eyes towards the eye where the light is coming from.

jne (3. kilde)

Glowing lenses, green glow. What you need: -2x detail brush -Dark Angels Green -Snot Green -Scorpion Green -Vallejo Game Colour, Livery Green (if you only have access to GW paints use Scorpion Green with a bit of Skull White in it) -Skull White First paint the glowing part and add the light it gives away later (at least, thats the way I prefer to do it). Start by painting Dark Angels green on the lens (source of light) itself:

Then mix Dark Angels green and Snot green 50/50 and apply over the DA green:

Next use pure Snot green:

Now mix Snot green with Scorpion green and add some water or glaze medium to the mix so it is easier to blend on to the lens, this is when it gets important to leave some of the darker colours showing through the paint:

Follow up with pure Scorpion green, again blend it on to the lens but now only sparingly towards the edges, we want to keep the darker colours:

Next use livery green (or mix some Skull White with scorpion green), again only cover the edges of the lens:

Finish the lens by adding a wee bit of Skull White to the very most extreme edges of the lens, only a tiny, tiny bit!

Now the lens is finished, time for the glow! It is easier to get the glow right than the lens itself in my opinion, so dont worry, if you managed the lens this will be nothing to worry about. I start by painting a thin line of scorpion green around the light source, remember that some areas will not be hit by the light (like in this case, or any other space marine helmet, above the eye lenses, since there is a small rim protruding there which hinders the light to cover that area, same goes for this skull helmet, the eyebrows prevents the light from reaching his forehead but there is nothing stopping the light from reaching his chins). The darkest colour used here is Scorpion green, dont worry to much about blending it nicely, Ive discovered that simply painting a thin line around the lens works well, but of course, if you are good at blending go ahead. Finish by highlighting the edges closest to the light source on your Scorpion green line with Livery green and youre done! Sometimes I go one step further though by adding a tiny bit of skull white to the areas that are very close to the light source (I did on this chaplain). Easy! (Note that some stronger Skull White was added to the eyes)