ORCHID PARK SECONDARY SCHOOL

National Police Cadet Corps

Campcraft – Knots (Notes)

Rank & Name: _________________________________ Level: Sec _____ Date: __________

Terms and Definitions

Terms Definitions
Working / Running End the active end of the rope that is used in the tying of knots.
Standing End the inactive end of the rope that is not used in the tying of knots.
Working Part the portion of the rope between the knot / loop / turn and the working end.
Standing Part the portion of the rope between the knot / loop / turn and the standing end.
Bight a bend or U-shaped curve of the rope.
Loop a full circle formed by crossing the working end over / under the standing part.
Overhand Loop a loop formed by crossing the working end over the standing part.
Underhand Loop a loop formed by passing the working end under the standing part.
Turn take the rope and go round the object once.
Round Turn take the rope and go around the object twice.
Seize bind two ropes, a rope to an object / two parts of the rope together with a string.

Bight Overhand Loop

Working / Running End Underhand Loop

Round Turn

Turn

Standing End

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Types of Knots

Types Functions
knots used to prevent the rope from sliding or being pulled through another knot or
Stopper Knots a loop. It can also be used as a weight for the rope, to provide as a hand-grip or to
prevent the end of the rope from fraying (“opening up”).
Fixing Knots / Hitches knots used to secure the rope to an object.
Loop Knots knots that have a loop.
Joining Knots / Bends knots used to tie two ropes together.
Shortening Knots knots used to shorten the rope.

Stopper Knots

Overhand Knot / Thumb Knot

Method 1:
1. Form an overhand (underhand) loop.
2. Bring the working end under (above) the loop.
3. Insert the working end in through the loop.
4. Pull both ends to tighten.

Method 2:
1. Cross your arms such that your right (left) palm is above your left (right) arm and your left (right)
palm is under your right (left) arms.
2. Hold each end of the rope with each of your palms.
3. Uncross your arms such that each arm is free from the rope.
4. Pull both ends to tighten.

Remarks:
• Usually used as a hand-grip or stopper.

• Easy to tie.

• When put under strain, it is difficult to untie.

• Jams easily and severely.

• Can be transformed into a Double Overhand Knot (stronger than an Overhand Knot) by adding
another turn round the loop before tightening the knot.

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Figure-of-Eight Knot
Method 1:
1. Form an overhand (underhand) loop.
2. Bring the working end across under (above) the standing part.
3. Bring the working end over (under) the loop.
4. Insert the working end in through the loop.
5. Pull the both ends to tighten.

Method 2:
1. Form a bight with the working end.
2. Twist the bight 360 .
3. Insert the working end in through the loop.

Remarks:
• Easy to tie.
• When put under strain, it is easy to untie.

• Does not jam.

• Can be transformed into Figure-of-Eight Loop (used in rescue work and mountaineering) by forming
a bight with the working end and using the bight to tie a Figure-of-Eight Knot.

• Can be transformed into Packer’s Knot (for tying a parcel) by tying a Figure-of-Eight Knot around
the standing part in the 1st loop and securing the standing part to the working end with a half hitch for
extra security.

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Hitches

Half Hitch
Method:
1. Make an underhand loop round the object.
2. Make a turn round the standing part with the working end going in through the loop that is around the
object. [This step is known as a “half hitch”.]
3. Pull both ends to tighten.

Remarks:
• Easy to tie.
• Not very secure.
• Can loosen when the strain goes around the object.

• Best used when the strain is at right angle to the object.

• Tie a stopper knot at the working end or seize the working end to the standing part for extra security.

Two Half Hitches

Method:
1. Make an underhand loop round the object.
2. Tie two half hitches around the standing part.
3. Pull both ends to tighten.

Remarks:
• Easy to tie.

• More secure than a Half Hitch.

• Best used when the strain is at right angle to the object.

• Tie a stopper knot at the working end or seize the working end to the standing part for extra security.

• Both half hitches should be in the same direction.

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Round Turn and Two Half Hitches
Method:
1. Make a round turn around the object.
2. Tie two half hitches around the standing part.
3. Pull both ends to tighten.

Remarks:
• Easy to tie.
• When put under strain, it is easy to untie.
• Does not jam.
• More secure than Two Half Hitches.

• Best used when the strain is at right angle to the object.

• Tie a stopper knot at the working end or seize the working end to the standing part for extra security.

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Clove Hitch
Method 1:
1. Form an overhand (underhand) loop around the object.
2. Form another overhand (underhand) loop around the object, under (above) the previous loop, such that
the working part and the standing part are in-between the two loops.
3. Pull both ends to tighten.

Method 2: (when one end of the object is accessible)

1. Form two overhand (underhand) loops side by side.
2. Overlap the two overhand (underhand) loops such that the working part and the standing part are in-
between the two loops.
3. Put the loops over the accessible end of the object.
4. Pull both ends to tighten.

Remarks:
• Easy to tie.
• When put under strain, it is easy to untie.

• Not as secure as the Round Turn and Two Half Hitches.

• Can loosen when the strain goes around the object.

• More secure when the strain is applied at both ends.

• Tie a stopper knot at the working end, secure the working end to the standing part with a half hitch or
two half hitches or seize the working end to the standing part for extra security.

• Can be tied even when the ends of the rope are inaccessible but one end of the object must be
accessible (Method 2).
• Can be transformed into a Constrictor Knot (very secure but very difficult to untie) by bringing the
working end over and in through the standing part and the 1st loop before tightening (Method 1).

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Rolling Hitch
Method:
1. Make a round turn around the object.
2. Make a turn round the standing part and the object.
3. Insert the working end in through the turn.
4. Pull both ends to tighten.

Remarks:
• Easy to tie and untie.

• When put under strain, it tightens easily.

• When there is no strain, it will slide along the object.

• Best when the strain is parallel or at an angle (  45 ) to the object, in the direction away from the
working end.
• Can be transformed into Tautline Hitch (a loop knot whose loop is adjustable) by making a bight with
the working end and tying a rolling hitch to the standing part.

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Timber Hitch
Method 1:
1. Make a turn round the object.
2. Insert the working end in through the turn.
3. Make a few (at least three or four) turns around the 1st turn on the other side of the standing part.
4. Pull both ends to tighten.

Method 2: (when the one end of the object is accessible)

1. Form a Figure-of-Eight Knot.
2. Make a few turns (at least three or four) around loop.
3. Put the loop over the accessible end of the object.
4. Pull both ends to tighten.

Remarks:
• Used as a temporary knot to drag or lift an object.

• Easy to tie and untie.

• Does not jam.

• The greater the strain, the tighter the knot.
• May loosen when there is no strain.

• Tie a half hitch to the object before the Timber Hitch for extra security.

• When the strain is to be parallel or at an angle (  45 ) to the object, tie a half hitch between the strain
and the Timber Hitch, especially for dragging the object.

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Highwayman’s Hitch / Draw Hitch
Method:
1. Form a bight behind (in front of) the object.
2. Form another bight with the standing part.
3. Insert the 2nd bight in through the 1st bight from the front of (behind) the object.
4. Pull the working end tight.
5. Form another bight with the working part.
6. Insert the 3rd bight in through the 2nd bight from the front of (behind) the object.
7. Pull the standing part and the 3rd bight to tighten, leaving the working end outside the 2nd bight.
Pull the working end to release.

Remarks:
• Used as a temporary knot to secure an object to another object.
• Easy to tie and untie.

• Quick release.

• Can be tied even when the ends of the rope are inaccessible.

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Marlinspike Hitch / Lever Hitch
Method 1:
1. Form a turn round the object.
2. Tie an Overhand Knot around the standing part.
3. Pull the working end and the turn to tighten the knot.
4. Pull the standing part to secure the rope to the object.

Method 2: (when one end of the object is accessible)

1. Form an overhand / underhand loop.
2. Form a bight with the working end / standing part.
3. Insert the bight in through the loop.
4. Put the bight over the accessible end of the object.

Remarks:
• Used to make a rope ladder (Method 2).

• Easy to tie and untie.

• Can be tied even when the ends of the rope are inaccessible.

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Loop Knots

Slip Knot
Method 1:
1. Form an overhand (underhand) loop.
2. Form a bight with the working part.
3. Insert the bight in through the loop, leaving the working end outside the loop.
4. Pull the working end, the standing part and the bight to tighten.
Pull the working end to release.

Method 2:
1. Form an Overhand Knot.
2. Form a bight with the working end.
3. Trace the working end back through the loop, leaving the bight outside the loop.
4. Pull the working end, standing part and the bight to tighten.
Pull the working end to release.

Remarks:
• Easy to tie.
• Quick release.

• Adjustable loop.

• The Overhand Knot should be on the standing part around the working end.

• If the Overhand Knot is on the working part around the standing part, it is a Slip Noose (pull the
standing part to release).

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Bowline
Method:
1. Form an overhand (underhand) loop with the working end.
2. Bring the working end under (above) the loop.
3. Form a bight with the working part.
4. Insert the working end in through the loop leaving the bight outside the loop.
5. Make a turn round the standing part.
6. Bring the working end above (under) the loop.
7. Insert the working end in through the loop.
8. Pull both ends to tighten.
9. Pull the standing part to tighten the loop.

Remarks:
• Use to secure to an object / loop or for rescue purposes.

• Easy to tie.
• When under strain, it is easy to untie.
• Does not jam.
• Loop does not slip and is not adjustable.
• The greater the strain, the tighter the knot.

• Tie a stopper knot at the working end, secure the working end to the loop with a half hitch or two half
hitches or seize the working end to the standing part for extra security, especially during rescue work.
• The working end must be inside the loop. (Otherwise, the knot is not as strong.)

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Tent-Guy Loop / Trucker’s Hitch
Method:
1. Tie a Slip Knot.
2. Form a bight with the working part.
3. Insert the working end in through the loop of the Slip Knot.
4. Pull the working part to tighten the Slip Knot.
5. Pull the working end to tighten the loop.

Remarks:
• Act as a pulley.

• Easy to tie and untie.

• Adjustable loop.

• Only secure when under strain.

• Will loosen when strain is removed.

• Secure with a half hitch or two half hitches at the working end or seize the working end for extra
security.

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Man-Harness Knot
Method:
1. Form an overhand loop.
2. Bring the working part under the loop leaving the working end outside the loop.
3. Take one side of the loop and bring it under the working part and in through the loop.
4. Pull the working end, the standing part and the loop to tighten.

Remarks:
• Acts as a handle / shoulder sling for hauling an object.

• Easy to tie.
• Loop does not slip and is not adjustable.

• Can be tied even when the ends of the rope are inaccessible.

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Fireman’s Chair Knot / Chair Hitch
Method:
1. Form two overhand (underhand) loops side by side.
2. Overlap the two overhand (underhand) loops such that the working part and the standing part are in-
between the two loops.
3. Insert the part of the loop on top in through the loop below and insert part of the loop below in through
the loop on top.
4. Pull the loops to tighten.
5. Use the working end to form a loop around the nearest loop.
6. Use the standing part to form a loop around the nearest loop.
7. Push the half hitches towards the knot.
8. Pull the working end and standing part to tighten.

Remarks:
• Use for rescue purposes (lower a casualty from a high ground) as it is strong enough to hold the
weight of a person.
• One loop goes round the person under the armpits while the other loop goes round the knee.

• One end for lowering the object and the other end for preventing the object from hitting against a wall.

• Secure the working end to the standing part with a half hitch or two half hitches to the standing part or
seize the working end to the standing part for extra security.

• Can be tied even when the ends of the rope are inaccessible.

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Bends

Reef Knot / Square Knot

Method 1:
1. Take the working ends of the two ropes and cross them right over left (left over right).
2. Make a turn round one of the rope with the other rope.
3. Cross the working ends again, left over right (right over left).
4. Make another turn round one of the rope with the other rope.
5. Pull the working ends and the standing parts to tighten.

Method 2:
1. Form a bight on the 1st rope.
2. Take the 2nd rope and insert it in through the bight on the 1st rope from below (above).
3. Bring the 2nd rope around the standing part and the working end of the 1st rope.
4. Insert the 2nd rope back in through the bight on the 1st rope.
5. Pull the working ends and the standing parts to tighten.

Remarks:
• Used to tie parcel and bandaging as it is flat.

• Used to join ropes of the same material and size.

• Should not be used when safety or security is concerned.

• Easy to tie.

• Can slip.
• Tightens when under strain.
• May loosen when there is no strain.

• Loosens off easily by pulling the two bights.

• Secure the working end to the standing part with a half hitch or two half hitches to the standing part or
seize the working end to the standing part for extra security.
• The working ends should be on the same side.

• If the working ends are on opposite side (Method 2), then it is a Thief Knot (much weaker that a
Square Knot).

• Can transform into Granny Knot (will slip under strain) when the two crossings are in the same
direction (Method 1).

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Sheet Bend
Method:
1. Form a bight with the working end of the thicker rope.
2. Take the working end of the thinner rope and insert it in through the bight of the thicker rope from
below.
3. Make an underhand loop around the working end and the standing part of the thicker rope.
4. Bring the working end of the thinner rope over the bight of the thicker rope.
5. Pull the working ends and the standing parts to tighten.

Remarks:
• Used to join ropes of different types or unequal thickness.

• Used to secure a rope to a loop (replace the thicker rope with the loop).
• Should not be used when safety or security is concerned.

• Easy to tie and untie.

• Does not jam.

• Tightens when under strain.
• The greater the strain, the tighter the knot.
• More secure than the Square Knot.

• Secure the working end to the standing part with a half hitch or two half hitches to the standing part or
seize the working end to the standing part for extra security.
• The thicker rope should form the bight.

• Should end with both working ends on the same side.

• If both working ends on opposite sides, it is a Left-Handed Sheet Bend (much weaker than a Sheet
Bend).

• Can transform into Double Sheet Bend (stronger and for ropes of very different thickness or when the
ropes are slippery) by adding another turn (repeat steps 3 ~ 4) before tightening.

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Fisherman’s Knot
Method:
1. Use the 1st rope to tie an overhand knot around the standing part of the 2nd rope.
2. Use the 2nd rope to tie an overhand knot around the standing part of the 1st rope.
3. Pull both standing parts to tighten.

Remarks:
• Used to join ropes of small and equal diameters.

• Used more for permanent bending as it jams severely and difficult to untie.

• Easy to tie.

• Strong.

• The working ends should be on opposite sides.

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Shortening Knots

Sheepshank
Method 1:
1. Form three overhand (underhand) loops side by side.
2. Overlap the loops such that the working part and the standing part are in-between the loops.
3. Bring one side of the middle loop nearest to the working part above (under) the loop nearest to the
working part.
4. Insert part of the middle loop in through the loop nearest to the working part.
5. Bring the other side of the middle loop nearest to the standing part under (above) the loop nearest to
the standing part.
6. Insert part of the middle loop in through the loop nearest to the standing part.
7. Pull the working end, the standing part and the two sides of the middle loop to tighten.

Method 2:
1. Form two bights in opposite directions (i.e. a “S” shape) with the working part.
2. Tie a half hitch each on each of the bights.
3. Pull both ends to tighten.

Remarks:
• Can be used to bypass a worn-out section of the rope by placing the worn-out section in the middle of
the “S” shape or as the middle loop.
• Easy to tie.

• Will loosen when there is no strain.

• Pass the two ends through the loops after tightening, pass an object through the loop (Method 1 of
Marlinspike Hitch), add another half hitch at each loop or seize the loops to the working end and
standing part for extra security.

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• Can be tied even when the ends of the rope are inaccessible.

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Chain Knot
Method:
1. Form an overhand (underhand) loop.
2. Form a bight with the working part.
3. Bring the bight under (above) the loop.
4. Insert the bight in through the loop, leaving the working end outside the loop.
5. Pull the standing part and the loop to tighten.
6. Pull the working end to adjust the loop.
7. Form another bight with the working part.
8. Insert the bight in through the loop, leaving the working end outside the loop.
9. Pull the working end to adjust the loop.
10. Repeat steps 7 ~ 9 till satisfied.
Pull the working end to release.

Remarks:
• Used for ropes of small diameters.

• Used for tying of boot laces.

• Quick release.

• Insert the working end in through the loop to secure.

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