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Kashmir. Temple of Sankaragaureswara near the village of Pathan. Niche on the left of entrance. Probable date A.D.

883 to 901
Photographer: Burke, John Date: 1868

Photograph of the Sankaragaurishwara temple at Patan in Jammu and Kashmir taken by John Burke in 1868. This is a close view of a sculpture within a damaged pedimented niche. This photograph is reproduced in Henry Hardy Cole's Archaeological Survey of India Report 'Illustrations of Ancient Buildings in Kashmir.' (1869) and the building therein described: 'The Temple of Sankara Gaureswara is elaborately carved, and some of the details are as sharp and clear as when first cut. The degree of elaboration in the porch-like projections and interior carvings...The repetition of the pediments one above the other, together with the highly decorated pillars in the porches, all prove that the style of building practised in Kashmir since the erection of the Jyeshteswara Temple, had in the progress of time followed the natural tendency for greater elaboration.' Modern Patan, located about 27 kms from Srinagar, is the site of Shankarapattana which was founded by Shankaravarman of Kashmir's Utpala dynasty (ruled 883902) as his capital. By this time Kashmir had become a great centre of the Shaivite spirituality and philosophy. Like his predecessor Avantivarman, Sankaravarman built two temples of which only the ruins remain, the Sankaragaurishwara Temple and the Sugandhesha Temple. Both dedicated to Shiva, they are seen as a late flowering of Kashmiri temple architecture. The former is named after the ruler and the latter is said to be named after his queen. They are built to much the same plan as earlier temples but their stones display a greater refinement and precision of cutting and carving.

Shankaragaurishvara Temple at Patan, on the road between Srinagar and Baramula: view of the front or west face
Photographer: Burke, John Date: 1868

Photograph of the Sankaragaurishwara temple at Patan, on the road between Srinagar and Baramula in Jammu and Kashmir, taken by John Burke in 1868. This general view of the west faade, with a measuring scale and a figure posed in the foreground, is reproduced in Henry Hardy Cole's Archaeological Survey of India report, Illustrations of Ancient Buildings in Kashmir, (1869), in which he wrote, The Temple of Sankara Gaureshwara is elaborately carved, and some of the details are as a sharp and clear as when first cut. The degree of elaboration in the porch-like projections and interior carvings. The repetition of the pediments one above the other, together with the highly decorated pillars in the porches, all prove that the style of building practiced in Kashmir since the erection of the Jyeshteswara Temple, had in the progress of time followed the natural tendency for greater elaboration. Modern Patan, located about 27 km from Srinagar, is the site of Shankarapattana which was founded by Shankaravarman of Kashmir's Utpala dynasty (ruled 883-902) as his capital. By this time Kashmir had become a great centre of the Shaivite spirituality and philosophy. Like his predecessor Avantivarman, Shankaravarman built two temples of which only the ruins remain, the Sankaragaurishwara Temple and the Sugandhesha Temple. Both dedicated to Shiva, they are seen as a late flowering of Kashmiri temple architecture. The former is named after the ruler and the latter is said to be named after his queen. They are built to much the same plan as earlier temples but their stones display a greater refinement and precision of cutting and carving.

SUGANDHESA AND SHANKARA GAURISA TEMPLES OF PATTAN KASHMIR

Photographs ByAutar Mota


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(From top to bottom: First five photographs were taken at Sugandhesa Temple ruins and last three were taken at Shankara Gaurisa Temple ruins) There upon the Chamberlain Ratnavardhana laboured and made Sankaravarman the son of Avantivarman, the king. (Taranga 5 Canto 128 Rajatarangini ) By him the daughter of the illustrious Swami raja, the lord of the northern region, named Sugandha was the beloved as is the night of full moon by the moon. (Taranga 5 Canto 157 Rajatarangini ) In association with her, in that fine town, the king who was comparable to the king of gods, constructed SANKARA GAURISA and SUGANDHESA. (Taranga 5 Canto 158 Rajatarangini ) A Brahmin named Nayaka , learned in four Vedas who was the noble of the shrine of the goddess of speech, was placed in charge of the two temples of SIVA. (Taranga 5 Canto 159 Rajatarangini ) Thus the petty minded king, in order to make his own city celebrated, carried away everything belonging to Parihaspora : (Taranga 5 canto 160 Rajatarangini ) Cloth weaving, sale and purchase of live sock and similar things which were the basis of fame of Pattana were once in that city. (Taranga 5 canto 162 Rajatarangini )

This is the story of two temple complexes on Srinagar Baramulla road known as PAANDAV LAARIE (PANDVAs ABODE) by people over here. Thanks to Kalhana, the story of the temples known as SUGANDHESA and SANKARA GAURISA is well documented in Taranga 5 of his monumental work Rajatarangini. The temples are located at village PATTAN on right side of main highway once you go from Srinagar to Baramulla . In spite of neglect, they still catch your eye even if you move past them in a bus or car or any other mode of transport. The temples were laid by king Sankaravarman who succeeded his father king Avantivarman and reigned from AD 883 to 901AD. In fact he tried to do what his father had done by laying similar temples at Avantipora. Both the temples had outer stone wall and a central Shiva temple with Sanctum Sanctorum. The temples are in big stones and resemble MARTAND style of temple architecture of Kashmir. The area used to be called PATTANA as per Kalhana and later came to be known as Sankarapura .Both the temples were dedicated to Mahadeva or Shiva by the king. Sankarvarman built his kingdom's capital in Sankarpura (Pattan). The temples were laid in conjunction with his queen Sugandha. This queen was executed during the reign of king PARTHA (906-921 AD) who had come under the influence of TANTRINS. The temples are about 300 meters apart and beautiful gardens have been laid presently beside these monuments by Archeological survey of India. Both are protected monuments. While SUGANDHESA Temple structure is in a larger area, SANKARA GAURISA Temple is close to the town and has a Tonga stand near it. I visited both the monuments thrice in 2009. All the six photographs at the top of this post relate to SUGANDESH while below uploaded four photographs were taken by me in and around SANKARA GAURISA. Some parts of the Sankara Gaurisa temple, including the colonnade, the temple plinth and a small shrine in the northeast corner, have sunk into the ground due reason of its long neglect. The entrance to the Sankara Gaurishvara temple is through the square space in the middle of the eastern path. There are various images in the lower and larger panels of this Temple structure. Most of the European travelers to Kashmir saw these temples in bad shape almost as ruins in total neglect.

According to Lawrence: "There are many ominous cracks on the walls, and if the forest trees which have taken root in these crevices are allowed to remain and spread, the destruction of both the buildings is imminent." (see page 125 of the Valley of Kashmir ) Kalhana records that Sankarvarman practically took everything from Parihaaspora (a city built by our illustrious king Lalitaditya nearby these temple structures ) to build his new capital at PATTAN. It took me some time to take inner views of SHANKARA GAURISA temple. Sahib ji. Baa vanay naa kenh yimun. yum Besharam Londaa Jamaat Chhe Assi bhudan samjhaan buss vatti Hunz Kaen. Zunn Chhunaa Assi Kenh Sonch Naa samajh. Beqal haa Saa Sir I shall tell them nothing. These young men think that we elders are a stone in their path. As if we can neither think nor understand. Just Fools. That is what Abdul Salam the tonga owner from Tonga stand outside the Shankara Gaurisa told me. In fact I wanted to take some pictures of the monument but I found two boys and a girl sitting inside the monument in a posture that made me feel ashamed. They noticed me but ignored my physical presence. Having failed to seek help of Abdul Salam, I went again and requested them that I wanted to take a photograph and would be pleased if they could move to one side for just two minutes. One of the boys turned to me and said smilingly, Tul Assi Ti Tul Saa Photo. Assi Chhanaa Shaqal photovuss laayakh. Meaning Take our snap also. Dont you find our faces worth photographing. I felt shame is my problem not theirs. Abdul Salam was right. On My return from these monuments I told my driver as to how rapidly values have changed in Kashmir. He agreed and blamed the younger generation. I do not blame youngsters alone. I hold a firm belief that Kashmir can produce many many Fayaz shawls, Mohd Sultan Khuroos and Agha Shahid Alis. I have found the new generation of kashmiri children sharp, intelligent and sincere. They need a direction and environment. (Text and Photo by Autar Mota)

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