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MOISTURE MANAGEMENT PROPERTY OF WOOL, POLYESTER & LYCRA FABRIC FOR ACTIVE SPORTSWEAR Submitted by:
BHARGAV SHYAM JOSHI 091050027 (B. TECH. IN TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY)
Moisture Management Property of Wool, Polyester & Lycra Fabric for Active Sportswear
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CERTIFICATE
MOISTURE MANAGEMENT PROPERTY OF WOOL, POLYESTER & LYCRA FABRIC FOR ACTIVE SPORTSWEAR
Is carried out by: BHARGAV SHYAM JOSHI (091050027) Under the guidance of: Prof. S.N.TETAMBE
And is submitted to VeermataJijabai Technological Institute in fulfilment for the degree of Bachelor of Technology (Textile) in the year 2012-2013.
Prof. S.N.Tetambe
Project Guide Textile Manufactures Dept. VJTI, Mumbai-19.
External Examiner
Dr.V.D.Gotmare
Head of the Dept. Textile ManufacturesDept VJTI, Mumbai-19.
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I the undersigned wish to state that the work embodied in this report Moisture Management Property of Wool, Polyester & Lycra Fabric for Active Sportswear forms the original contribution to the work carried out under the guidance Prof. S.N.Tetambe at Veermata Jijabai Technological Institute, Mumbai. This work has not been submitted for any other degree or diploma at any other University or Institute. References to previous works of others have been clearly acknowledged.
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I am very glad to present this project report & express my sincere thanks to all who directly and indirectly helped to complete the project. I express my gratitude to the following concerned:Prof. S.N.Tetambe Dr. V.D. Gotmare Dr.A.K.Rakshit (Project Guide) (HOD,Textile Manufactures Department) (Dean R&D, VJTI & Senior Faculty,Textile Manufactures Department) (DIRECTOR ,VJTI)
Dr. O. G Kakde
Prof. Mutazir Ahmed Wool Research Association(WRA) Mr. Jagda Mr Amrut Patil Mr. Sanjay More Mrs. Sheela Raj Mr. Chagani Mrs. Prachi Mhatre & Mr. Deepak Kumar
(WRA) (RENFRO INDIA PVT LTD) (Faculty of Knit-wear Design,NIFT,Kharghar) (MMT Testing Incharge at CIRCOT,MUMBAI) (Chemistry Department,CIRCOT,MUMBAI) (CIRCOT LIBRARY)
These personalities have provided me with all possible technical help required to complete the task successfully for which I would always be grateful to them. In the course of project they have gone out of their way in helping to solving my queries, which justifies for their keen interest in shaping the future generations of technologists and engineers. I would once again like to thank my project guide for his invaluable guidance during the project work. Bhargav Joshi
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ABSTRACT
Moisture management properties of wool/ polyester and wool/bamboo knitted fabrics for the sportswear base layer.
The technical developments in the sports clothing industry have resulted in the use of engineered textiles for highly specialized performances in different sports. People are increasingly looking for 'value added' textiles and functional design in sportswear. For achieving high level of performance, sportsmen are looking for such type of clothing which will provide both functional property as well as comfort property. Moisture Management Property of Fabrics having different coarse wool counts is
tested.These Fabrics are having a unique structure.As these fabrics are plated knitted fabrics with Core-Spun Lycra-Polyester yarn as the Plating yarn. The Idea being lycra-polyester layer would be next to skin and wool would be the outer surface. As Moisture develops on the skin, it would be wicked by lycra-polyester layer And absorbed by wool and quickly evaporated giving comfort to the wearer. Therefore the test is carried out on lycra-polyester layer. Moisture Management Test is carried in accordance with AATCC test no. 2009-195 using Moisture Management Tester developed by SDL ATLAS.
Wool being very good absorbent and has very good wicking property is used . Wool counts used are 48/2 Nm, 70/2 Nm, 80/2 Nm. Lycra being very extensible and stretch giving.Lycra has also good wicking .It is used to give Sportswear proper stretch. Polyester is used for strength and good wicking, chemical treatment which makes polyester hydrophilic. Plated fabric with wool as face side and polyester lycra core spun yarn as reverse side is produced. These fabrics are treated with Sodium Carbonate for increasing the absorbancy.
The results show that moisture management properties of fabric having wool count of 70Nm/2 is the best among the three used and can be best used as sportswear for cold climate.
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CONTENTS
Page No.
1.INTRODUCTION 1.1 OBJECTIVE 2.LITERATURE REVIEW 2.1 POLYESTER 2.2 WOOL 2.3 LYCRA 2.4 LYCRA POLYESTER CORE SPUN YARN 2.5 FABRIC TYPE 2.6 PLATED STRUCTURE 2.7 TESTING FACILITY 3.PROCEDURE 3.1 MATERIALS 3.1.1 YARN USED 3.1.2 CHEMICALS USED 3.2 FABRIC PREPARATION 3.3 FABRIC PROPERTIES 3.4 INITIAL PREPARATION 3.4.1 TREATING WITH SODIUM CARBONATE 3.4.2 STANDARD TESTING 3.5 SCOPE AND PURPOSE 3.6 MOISTURE MANAGEMENT TESTER 3.6.1 TERMINOLOGY 3.6.2 SAMPLE PREPARATION AND EXPERIMENTAL CONDITIONS 3.6.3 MOISTURE MANAGEMENT TESTER INDICES 3.6.4 GRADING 3.6.5 TESTING 3.6.6 TESTING WAY 4 RESULTS & ANALYSIS 5 ATTRIBUTES GIVEN 6 CONCLUSION 7 APPLICATION
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12 12 12 13 13 14 15 15 16 16 16 17 27 27 28
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8 REFERENCES
30
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1.INTRODUCTION
Sports garments, particularly the layer worn next to skin, are key to the physiological comfort of an athlete, and their attributes in this aspect are critical to the athletes performance.The human body has an operating temperature of 37C, which it attempts to maintain under different circumstances. Due to the increased metabolism the body temperature rises during physical activity, such as participation in active sports, and the body-created heat ranges between 100W at rest and 1000W during periods of intense physical activity. To maintain the body temperature at 37C during this intense physical activity it is necessary to transport the heat away from the body to the environment.
The heat transport to the environment is achieved through a dry flux (conduction, convection, and radiation) and a latent flux produced by perspiration. The cooling heat flow created by the perspiration is also transferred by conduction and convection. In cases when the skin is not covered by close-fitting textiles and there is a micro-climate gap between the garment and the skin, or the skin is not covered at all, the sweat also evaporates directly from the skin, offering an important cooling mechanism. The dry flux depends on the thermal insulation property of the garment worn, while the latent flux depends on the garment moisture transport (management) properties; thus the body vapour and liquid sweat must have the opportunity to pass effectively from the skin to the outer surface of the clothing and, therefore, the liquid moisture transport ability of the garment worn is of the most importance in cases where the physical exertion causes a high rate of sweating.
1.1 Objective:
To produce a knitted plated fabric with wool as face side and core-spun yarn of lycra polyester as reverse side. Comparision of Moisture management of three different wool count fibres fabrics with above based technique. Treating of fabrics with sodium carbonate Again testing with moisture management tester.
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2.LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 Polyester
There are a number of textile fibers that are currently used in sportswear, both natural and synthetic, but polyester is the single most popular and common fiber used in active wear and sportswear. In its unfinished state, polyester fiber is hydrophobic and has a much lower water absorption capacity than, for example, cotton fiber, but its wicking rate, although slow compared with some other synthetic fibers, is faster than that of cotton. Polyester fiber is also cheap to manufacture and easy to care for and has excellent washing and wearing properties. When polyester is intended to make contact with the skin in a garment, it is usually chemically treated to improve its wicking ability.This is achieved by applying a hydrophilic coating to each polyester filament. The resulting hydrophobic core and hydyophilic surface allow moisture to migrate along the outer surface of filament without being absorbed into the core Moisture Regain : 0.4 %
2.2 Wool
Wool has good, natural wicking property and also it will provide insulation even in wet condition, but it is slow to dry. It is a popular misconception that synthetic fabrics dry more quickly than their natural counterparts. In fact the rate of evaporation from fabrics depends on the surrounding climate conditions and structure of the fabric. A wool fabric has been shown to absorb significantly more sweat than a polyester fabric (of comparable structure) followed by rest during a period of exercise. The amount of moisture desorbed from the wool fabric was significantly higher than the polyester fabric, and the skin temperature decreased faster and recovered more slowly after contact with the wool fabric compared with polyester fabric. The removal of the sweat in vapour form from the micro-climate between the skin and fabric reduces the retention of liquid sweat, leaving drier and more comfortable.Wool fibre has a unique natural thermal regulation and vaporous management properties which helps in cooling down and controls body temperature. When wool absorbs moisture, it produces heat, so when a wool fabric is taken from a warm room into a cold one,the wool picks up water vapour from the air, and makes the wearer
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warm. The reverse occurs when go back into the warm room - the moisture in the fabric passes into the atmosphere, and cools down. Tiny pores in the cuticle cells of wool structure allow water vapour to pass through the wool fibre. This makes wool fabric, a suitable sports clothing in both warm and cool conditions .
Wool fiber is a good thermal insulator even when wet and has the highest moisture regain of all fibers at a given temperature and relative humidity. Hence wool is able to absorb more moisture than,for example, cotton, before becoming saturated and causing the sensation of wet cling on the skin. Moisture Regain -18%
2.3 Lycra
Lycra is made of elastane fiber. Lycra knitting is very flexible; LYCRA can stretch up to 500% and then springing back to its original shape. It is light, durable and feels pleasant against the skin. DuPont Lycra keeps its colour, shape and size. It adds support to working muscles during activity. Moisture Regain- 0.8-1.2%
Sheath contributesSuperior frictional characteristics compared to a continuous filament threads Higher strength
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Plating can create a uniform fabric In this experiment,face side is wool and lycra-polyester becomes the back side.
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3. PROCEDURE
3.1 MATERIALS:
o 3.1.1 Yarn Used
Wool Yarn 48/2 Nm 70/2 Nm 80/2 Nm Two for one yarn is used for better uniformity and giving better properties. Wool Yarn is sourced from Wool Research Association,Thane Lycra Polyester Core Spun Yarn 20/75 den Lycra Polyester Core Spun Yarn is sourced from Renfro India Pvt. Limited.
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Thickness. The thickness of fabric samples was measured as the distance between the
reference plate and parallel presser foot of the thickness tester. Yarn 1 Yarn 2 GSM(g/sq.m) count(wool)(Nm) count(lycra Polyester) den 48/2 20/75 290 70/2 80/2 20/75 20/75 254 200 Thickness(mm)
Calculation of GSM
Sample Fabric 1 Fabric 2 Fabric 3 Weight of 10 cm x 10 cm sample 2.9 gm 2.54 gm 2.0 gm
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Reagent,followed by rinsing for the same time period. After the scouring process was completed, the samples were tumble dried. 2g/l
3.4.2Test methods
Prior to testing all fabrics sample were conditioned and tested in a standard atmosphere
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Moisture Management Tester (inside view) showing concentric circles The MMT utilizes the electrical resistance technique, which is based on the substantial difference in electrical conductivity of air (non-wetted fabrics) and water (wetted fabrics): as the liquid wicks through and/or absorbs into the fabric sample, the electrical resistance of the
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sample reduces. The MMT method assumes that the value of the electrical resistance change depends on two factors: the components of the water and the water content in the fabric, thus when the influence of the water components is fixed, the electrical resistance measured is only related to the water content in the fabric. It is important to note that the electrical resistance of wet textile fabrics also depends on the fabric fiber composition and content, fiber polymer (where fibers themselves exhibit different electrical conductivity or virtually no conductivity), and also different fiber sorbtion properties, thus the MMT testing method has to be considered in context of the fiber conductive properties.The MMT measures the liquid transfer in one step in a fabric sample in multi-directions: outward on the top (next to skin) surface of the fabric, through the fabric sample from the top to the bottom (opposite) surface, and outward on the bottom surface. Gravity unquestionably has an influence on the transfer of moisture through the fabric from the top surface to the bottom surface, but as the tests are conducted under the same conditions, the influence of gravity could be considered constant for all fabrics.
In the present study the technical back of the fabric samples is always a top surface (facing the top sensor) when the sample is tested, imitating the case where the technical back is in direct contact with the skin (Table 1).
The possible presence of air gaps between the skin and the fabric, and also the possible boundary wetting resistance between the skin and the fabric during real wear are not taken into consideration in the study. The method used will not give alone an overall rating of the comfort of fabrics, as additional factors, such as sorption, wicking, vapor movement, and thermal properties, have to be taken into consideration at such rating.
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3.6.1Terminology
absorption rate (ART) (top surface) and (ARB) (bottom surface), n. the average speed of liquid moisture absorption for the top and bottom surfaces of the specimen during the initial change of water content during a test. accumulative one-way transport capability (R), n.the difference between the area of the liquid moisture content curves of the top and bottom surfaces of a specimen with respect to time. 3.3 bottom surface (B), n.for testing purposes, the side of the specimen placed down against the lower electrical sensor which is the side of the fabric that would be the outer exposed surface of a garment when it is worn or product when it is used. 3.4 maximum wetted radius (MWRT) and (MWRB) (mm), n.the greatest ring radius measured on the top and bottom surfaces. 3.5 moisture management, n.for liquid moisture management testing, the engineered or inherent transport of aqueous liquids such as perspiration or water (relates to comfort) and includes both liquid and vapor forms of water. 3.6 overall (liquid) moisture management capability (OMMC), n.an index of the overall capability of a fabric to transport liquid moisture as calculated by combining three measured attributes of performance: the liquid moisture absorption rate on the bottom surface (ARB), the one way liquid transport capability (R), and the maximum liquid moisture spreading speed on the bottom surface (SSB). 3.7 spreading speed, (SSi), n.the accumulated rate of surface wetting from the center of the specimen where the test solution is dropped to the maximum wetted radius. 3.8 top surface (T), n.for testing purposes, the side of a specimen that, when the specimen is placed on the lower electrical sensor, is facing the upper sensor. This is the side of the fabric that would come in contact with the skin when a garment is worn or when a product is used. 3.9 total water content (U) (%), n.the sum of the percent water content of the top and bottom surfaces. NOTE: Total water content measurements may be more accurately termed, total surface water content particularly in the case of fabric with cellulosic content. Total water content implies that all water in the specimen is being measured which may be the case
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with some manufactured fabrics. However, when testing cellulosic fibers, moisture trapped in the interior of the fiber (for example, in the lumen of cotton fibers) will not be included with aspecimens detected surface liquid moisture. 3.10 wetting time (WTT) (top surface) and (WTB) (bottom surface), n. the time in seconds when the top and bottom surfaces of the specimen begin to be wetted after the test is started.
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According to AATCC Test Method 1952009, the indices are graded and converted from value to Grade based on a five grade scale (15). The five grades of indices represent: 1 Poor, 2 Fair, 3 Good, 4 Very good, 5 Excellent.
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3.6.4 Grading
3.6.5 Testing
Testing is carried out for 6 samlples 1.Fabric 1(F1) 2.Fabric 1 Treated (F1T) 3 Fabric 2(F2) 4.Fabric 2 Treated(F2T) 5.Fabric 3(F3) 6.Fabric 3 Treated(F3T)
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F1
26.9636
33.5624
139.4848
61.4558
1.1954
1.3467
122.3525
0.2933
F1T
10.9975
10.92
217.7239
31.9142
10.0
15.0
1.0231
3.0521
195.1258
0.5042
F2 F2T
19.667 8.276
23.9307 2.036
277.0033
18.6961
21.6667
23.3333
1.1824
3.5506
-280.4846
0.2042
6.3345
24.7735
12.5
17.5
1.589
3.8385
333.7135
0.6749
F3
4.597
7.9613
38.9017
26.6958
16.6667
18.3333
2.9144
2.4724
-90.3499
0.1691
F3T
8.635
6.1155
16.3519
27.6029
15.0
15.0
1.9466
2.3342
236.7798
0.4787
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Fig.1
Top Wetting time for the Fabric 1 is the highest and Fabric 3 is lowest Grading shows that longer time for wetting is not favourable . Fabric 3 ,Fabric 3 treated are having good grades. This shows that finer the yarn used ,the good is wetting time. Wool with 80/2 Nm is plated with 20/75 den in fabric 3 and plating causes to effect the top wettin radius inspite the top surface being lycra and polyester The graph shows the top weting time reduces considerably after treatment with sodium carbonate(F1,F1T,F2,F2T)
Fig.2
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Fig .3
Bottom wetting time for Fabric 1 is the highest and that of Fabric 2 treated is the lowest Maximum grade and hence the best for bottom wetting time is Fabric 2 treated. This graph also shows that treating the fabrics with sodium carbonate reduces the wetting time of the fabrics. In this case significant difference of wetting time between the F1,F2 AND F3.F3 shows considerably lower wetting time. Count of wool affected here.
Fig .4
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250
150
50
Fig.5
Top absorption rate of F1,F1T and F2 is high and it being of good grade also. It is seen from the graph that the for coarser fibre the moisture absorption rate is good. While it reduces for less course counts. And the finer count fabric F3 also absorbs less moisture on its top surface. Bottom Absorption Rate over all rate is lower. For the fabric with finest wool count the treated and untreated fabrics have same bottom absorption rates.
5 4.5 4 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 F1 F1T F2 F2T F3 F3T Top Absorption Rate Grade bottom Absorption Rate Grade
Fig.6
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20
Fig.7
Top wetting Radius:max wetting decreases after treatment with sodium carbonate Maximum wetted radius is of fabric 2 untreated and lowest of F1 untreated. Grade is highest of F2 and lowest of F1 Bottom wetting Radius is more as compared to the top wetted radius And the bottom radius reduces after treating.
5 4.5 4 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 F1 F1T F2 F2T F3 F3T Bottom Max wetted Radius grade Top Max wetted Radius grade
Fig.8
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Fig.9
Top spreading speed is lower as compared to Bottom spreading speed. Top spreading speed decreases for F1,F1T,F3 ,F3T but increases for F2 after treating. Bottom spreading speed increases for after treatment. But the Fabric 2 is having the most high grade. Fabric3 has no effect of treating with sodium carbonate.
5 4.5 4 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 F1 F1T F2 F2T F3 F3T top ss grade bottom ss grade
Fig.10
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AOTI
400 300 200 100 0 F1 -100 -200 -300 -400 F1T F2 F2T F3 F3T AOTI
Fig.11
Accumulative One way transport Index: The one way transport is best for Fabric 2 treated and Fabric 3 treated and is the worst for F2 and F3. AOTI shows one way transport from plated lycr-polyester surface to wool surface.
AOTI grade
5 4.5 4 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 F1 F1T F2 F2T F3 F3T AOTI grade
Fig.12
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OMMC(0-1)
0.8 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1 0 F1T F1T F2T F2T F3 F3T OMMC(0-1)
Fig.13
OMMC grade
5 4.5 4 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 F1 F1T F2 F2T F3 F3T OMMC grade
Fig.14
OMMC(Overall moisture management capability): OMMC of F2T is maximum With F3T at second position and F1T least F2 is best for moisture management. OMMC increases after sodium carbonate treatment.
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5 ATTRIBUTES GIVEN
Fabric 1-This is fast absorbing and Slow drying fabric Fabric 1 treated-This is moisture management fabric Fabric 2-This is fast absorbing and quick drying fabric Fabric 2 treated-This is moisture management fabric Fabric 3-This is fast absorbing and quick drying fabric Fabric 3 treated-This is moisture management fabric
6 CONCLUSION:
Knitted fabrics in a single jersey plated construction with different ratios of wool and polyester/lycra have different moisture management properties and performance attributes, thus potentially it is possible to engineer fabrics of such construction to the required moisture management performance by varying their fiber content Moisture Absorbency values have increased with treatment with Sodium Carbonate. Surface spreading speed increased after treatment. Decrease in top spreading radius due to increased absorption after treatment is seen
Constructing Fabric of wool fiber and polyester lycra core spun yarn has improved fabric bottom surface properties compared to fabrics in wool fiber without blending. Fabric knitted from finer counts have good Moisture Managemnt Properties than Fabrics knitted with coarse counts. Finer count made fabric has improved the top (next to skin) fabric surface and bottom (outside skin) fabric surface properties than coarser count made fabrics. Fabrics F1T,F2T,F3T classified into moisture management fabrics according to the ossiblecommercial classification and these fabrics are suitable for active sportswear.
The MMT test method focuses on liquid moisture transport in the flat state, which may be applicable to the evaluation of fabrics in garments or textile products as they would be exposed to liquid moisture (e.g. perspiration) present on the surface of human skin. It does not measure gaseous moisture transport properties (e.g.water vapor transmission) or tactile properties that also influence human perceptions of comfort.
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This test method alone will not give an overall rating of the comfort of a garment or textile product, because human perceptions of comfort are influenced by multiple liquid movement properties, as well as ergonomic and other mechanical factors. The comfort properties of the tested fabrics could be considered as preliminary to more in-depth investigations and the MMT offers somewhat approximate results only.
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7 APPLICATIONS
Cold wear require to be protective enough as well as comfortable . This Fabric structure which is coarse enough to be protective and also is moisture
management fabric will give the wearer all the requirements of Cold Climate Clothing. It can be hand gloves , hand coverings
Wherever a man goes Sports is followed there.For playing sports ,sports wear should be good enough for proper playing.The Fabric produced would be good for sports wear in cold climate.
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Sports require good moisture management fabrics for ease and comfort.Running,cycling, fencing are heavy sweating activites , which require moisture management fabric like the above fabric.
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8 REFERENCES
Achintya Kr. Samanta & Aniket Bhute,Wool in sports textiles Olga Troynikov and Wiah Wardiningsih,Moisture management properties of wool/polyester and wool/bamboo knitted fabricsfor the sportswear base layer Raul fangueiro,Pedro goncalves,Filipe Soutinho & Carla Freitas ,Moisture
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