Step by step

B Step by step
A Walk
through the City
2 The Upper Town
6 Ban Jelai Square
8 Kaptol
14 Dolac
16 Tkalieva
18 Bloody Bridge
19 Radieva
20 The Stone Gate
22 Opatika
26 St Marks Square
32 Catherines Square
34 The Strossmayer Promenade
36 The Lower Town
40 Nikola ubi Zrinski Square
44 King Tomislav Square
48 Maruli Square
50 Marshal Tito Square
54 Masarykova
56 Petar Preradovi Square
60 Ilica
64 Juriieva
68 Outside the Centre
Welcome to Zagreb!
This selection of Zagrebs
cultural and historical sights
will help each visitor to get
to know the city better. Step
by step the life of Zagreb
is presented through the
centuries, from the citys
foundation to the present
day; from its legends to its
historical figures. You wont
get lost in the labyrinth
of streets because you
can always stop and ask
for directions. You will be
delighted by the hospitality
of people in Zagreb.
2 Step by step Step by step 3
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The Upper
Town
1. Ban Jelai Square
2. Kaptol
3. Dolac
4. Tkalieva
5. Bloody Bridge
6. Radieva
7. The Stone Gate
8. Opatika
9. St Marks Square
10. Catherines Square
11. The Strossmayer
Promenade
1.
O
Ban Josip
Jelai
O
The
Manduevac
Fountain
Ban Jelai
Square
Ban Jelai Square
Central focus of modern Zagreb
is Ban Jelai Square (Trg bana
Jelaia). Situated just below the
hillside settlements of Kaptol
and Gradec, it has served as the
citys commercial heart ever since
1641, when it was designated
as a place where fairs could
be held. Most of the buildings
around the square date from
the 19
th
century, and display a
variety of architectural styles,
from Biedermaier to Art Nouveau
and Post-modernism.The square
was Zagrebs main marketplace
and carried the name Harmica
(Hungarian for one thirtieth),
after the tax levied on the goods
that were sold here. In 1848 the
square was officially renamed in
honour of Ban (Governor) Josip
Jelai. After World War II the
name of the square was changed
to Republic Square, only to return
to its previous title in 1990. Ban
Jelai Square stands at the centre
of Zagrebs social life and the most
popular meeting points are under
the clock on the west side of the
square, and under the horses tail
a reference to the equestrian statue
of Ban Jelai in the squares centre.
Ban Josip Jelai
The statue of Ban Josip Jelai is the
work of the Austrian sculptor Anton
Fernkorn. It was placed on the
square in 1866, only to be removed
by the communist authorities in
1947. In 1990 a public petition
secured the return of the statue,
and it was unveiled on October 16
th

Ban Jelais birthday. Originally
placed facing northwards in order
to symbolize the Bans defence of
Croatias rights against Austria and
Hungary, the statue
now faces south to
provide a better
balance to the
layout of
the square.
The Manduevac Fountain
The Manduevac Fountain was
built above a natural spring that
provided Zagreb with drinking
water right up until the end of
the 19
th
century. Court records
about the persecution of witches
mention the spring as their main
meeting point. There is also a
legend connecting the spring with
the name of the city. Namely, one
sunny day an old Croatian war
leader was returning from battle
tired and thirsty, and asked a
beautiful girl Manda to scoop up
some water from the spring for him.
The Croatian word for to scoop up
water is zagrabiti. So the spring
got the name Manduevac, after
the girl, and the town got the name
Zagreb after the scoop of water.
Count Josip
Jelai Buimski
(1801. - 1859.).
A general in the
Austrian army and
Governor (Ban)
of Croatia from
1848 to 1859,
Jelai abolished
serfdom and
held the first ever
elections for the
Croatian Sabor or
Parliament. Jelai
helped Austrian
forces put down
the Hungarian
Revolution of
1848 in the hope
that this would
lead to greater
autonomy
for Croatia,
although these
aspirations were
to remain fulfilled.
Celebrated as a
national hero
in Croatia, his
portrait currently
graces one side
of the 20 kuna
banknote.
Step by step 9
2. Kaptol
The Cathedral
Characterized by its soaring
twin towers, the Cathedral of
the Assumption of the Blessed
Virgin Mary is one of Zagrebs
defining symbols. Although it is
a largely Neo-Gothic structure
dating from the late 19
th
century,
its origins are much older. The
Zagreb bishopric was established
in 1094, and construction of the
cathedral started soon afterwards.
An early Gothic sanctuary with
polygonal apse was added at the
end of the 13
th
century, while the
nave was modified and heightened
during the 14
th
and 15
th
centuries.
The expansion of the Ottoman
Empire put Zagreb within range
of enemy raids, and the cathedral
was fortified by adding a turreted
outer wall. Once the danger of
invasion had passed, a single
bell-tower was built in the 17
th

century. At that time the Baroque
became the most prevalent style,
which is today borne out by the
richly decorated altars. During
the 18
th
century the defensive
bastions on the south and east
were reconstructed to form a
monumental bishops palace.
A huge earthquake in 1880 did
enormous damage to the cathedral,
and it was reconstructed along
Neo-Gothic lines, a style that was
popular across Europe at that time.
Local architect Herman Bolle was
in charge of the project, although
the blueprints were provided
by Austrian designer Friedrich
von Schmidt. Thus the cathedral
took on its present-day shape
with its slender 105-metre-high
towers dominating the Zagreb
skyline. There is no consensus
about the height among the
inhabitants of the city.
Renaissance Walls
The cathedrals defensive walls
with round towers were built
when the threat from the Ottoman
Turks was at its height. The
walls were built in record time
between 1512 and 1521. One
tower was demolished during
the 19
th
-century rebuilding of
the cathedral to provide an
unobstructed view of the cathedral.
These changes aside, the walls
remain among the best-preserved
Renaissance defences in Europe.
Bishop Duh
The first bishop
of Zagreb was
a Czech called
Duh (which,
appropriately
for a churchman,
literally means
"spirit"). He was
appointed by King
Ladislav, founder
of the diocese, in
around 1094. Duh
didnt remain
head of the
diocese for long,
but he is thought
to have been a
capable and pious
leader. It was
probably Duh who
started building
the cathedral,
having tired of
using one of the
existing churches
as a temporary
episcopal centre.
The stairs
that connect
Tkalieva and
Opatovina were
named after him
in his honour.
10 Step by step
St Stephens Chapel
13
th
-century bishop Stjepan II built
a chapel beside the cathedral in
honour of Zagrebs deliverance
from the Tatar invasion. He
dedicated it to his namesake
St Stephen, one of the earliest
Christian martyrs. The chapel was
temporarily used for religious
ceremonies while construction
work continued on the cathedral
itself. In the 18
th
century the
chapel was incorporated into
the Bishops Palace. The chapels
well-preserved 14
th
-century
murals constitute a unique
example of Croatian Gothic art.
The Treasury
The Treasury of Zagreb cathedral
bears witness to a continuous
history of Christianity in this area
that stretches back 14 centuries.
Liturgical objects made of gold,
silver, wood and parchment
are kept above the cathedrals
sacristy. The most valuable
and oldest object is the ivory
plenarium illustrated with ten
scenes from the life of Jesus. It
has been in Zagreb ever since
11
th
century. A thief posing as an
art-loving aristocrat once made
a copy of the plenarium, taking
the original to America where it
was sold. Subsequently recovered,
the original is now preserved
alongside the copy in the treasury.
On the eve of the visit of Pope
John II to Zagreb, scenes from
the plenarium were copied
onto the covers of the Book
of Gospels that was presented
to the Holy Father as a gift.
Virgin Mary with Angels
After the cathedral had been
reconstructed in the Neo-Gothic
style, a fountain designed by
Hermann Boll was built in front
of the cathedral. The Austrian
sculptor Fernkorn was responsible
for the gold-plated statues
of the Virgin Mary and four
angels, the latter symbolizing
the Christian virtues of Faith,
Hope, Innocence and Humility.
Anton Dominick
Ritter von
Fernkorn
(1813. - 1878.),
Austrian realist
sculptor famous
for his public
statues, many of
which featured
heroic figures on
horseback.
There are several
of his statues
in Zagreb:
Ban Jelai
on horseback,
St George on
horseback,
Mercury in
relief and the
Virgin Mary with
four angels.
12 Step by step
O
The Cathedral
O
Renaissance Walls
O
Virgin Mary
with Angels
O
Ribnjak Park
O
The Franciscan
Church
O
Prilins Tower
O
St Marys Church
O
Petrica Kerempuh
Ribnjak Park
Ribnjak was originally the
site of the Bishop of Zagrebs
fishponds, and it was here that
priests from Kaptol would catch
fish ready for Fridays evening
meal. Subsequently transformed
into an English-style landscaped
park, Ribnjak now offers exotic
plants, sculptures, benches and
a childrens playground, making
it an ideal spot for relaxation.
The Franciscan Church
A church and monastery have
existed on this spot since the
13
th
century, and according to
legend St Francis of Assisi himself
resided here for a time. The
church was rebuilt in Baroque
style in the 17
th
century, but
reconstruction work following
the great earthquake of 1880
resulted in the addition of some
Neo-Gothic features on the
outside. The church interior
owes its special ambience to the
modern stained-glass windows
(1961-1964) designed by Ivo
Duli, in which scenes from the
life of St Francis are depicted.
Within the monastery complex
is a late 17
th
-century chapel
built in Baroque style. The
chapel is richly decorated with
stuccowork and murals, one of
which portrays pious Zagreb
noblewoman Katarina Galovi
welcoming St Francis to the city.
Prilins Tower
This small park at the end of
Opatovina is something of an
oasis of peace in the bustling
centre of the city. Up until World
War II this was where the priests
of Kaptol had their orchards and
vegetable plots. The park contains
remnants of medieval wall and
a well-preserved defensive
tower, built by the inhabitants
of Kaptol when the Ottoman
menace was at its height. The
tower was named after Prilin,
commander of the town guard.
On summer nights it becomes an
appropriately authentic backdrop
for open-air theatre performances.
14 Step by step
3. Dolac
Dolac Market
Open-air food markets make up
one of Zagrebs most attractive
features. Almost every district in
the city has one, although the
most famous one is Dolac, close
to the cathedral. Here people
sell fresh fruit, vegetables, meat
and fish every day of the week.
This bustling place
is affectionately
known as the belly
of Zagreb, due to
the mouth-watering
array of irresistible
foodstuffs brought
here from all parts of
Croatia. The market
dates from the early
20
th
century, when
the city authorities
decided to tear down
all houses on Dolac
to make room for a
modern marketplace
on three levels.
St Marys Church
Built on the site of an earlier
Cistercian church, St Marys is an
outstanding example of the three-
aisled Baroque churches built
in the 18
th
century. The interior
luxuriates in marble altars and
illusionist frescoes. The entrance
to the church is somewhat
hidden from sight, under the
arcades that connect Dolac
market with Tkalieva.
Petrica Kerempuh
Standing in a small square filled
with flower stalls is a mischievous-
looking statue of Petrica Kerempuh,
the work of sculptor Vanja
Radau. A much-loved character
from Croatian literature, Petrica
Kerempuh is a plebeian prophet,
rascal and cynical commentator
on contemporary events, a sort
of predecessor of modern stand-
up comedians. His most notable
incarnation can be found in The
Ballads of Petrica Kerempuh
(1936), written by Croatias leading
20
th
-century writer Miroslav Krlea.
Miroslav Krlea
(1893 1981),
writer and
encyclopaedist.
His works have
left a lasting
mark on 20
th
-
century Croatian
literature. He was
born in Zagreb
and attended a
school on Kaptol.
His most famous
works include the
long poem The
Ballads of Petrica
Kerempuh,
the novel On
the Edge of
Reason, and the
play The Family
Glembay. Krlea
founded the
Lexicographical
Institute that
today carries
his name. He
also initiated
work on several
encyclopaedias.
16 Step by step
O
Marija Juri Zagorka
O
The Glyptotheque
O
The Bloody Bridge
O
St George 4.
O
The Stone Gate
O
Zagrebs Oldest
Pharmacy Tkalieva
Tkalieva
Undoubtedly Zagrebs most
colourful downtown street,
Tkalieva (commonly known as
Tkala) is built along the course
of the former Medveak creek,
traditional boundary between the
settlements of Kaptol and Gradec.
Everything to the east of the creek
belonged to church-controlled
Kaptol, while the west side
belonged to the secular Gradec.
Most of Zagrebs watermills were
concentrated around the creek, and
in the 18
th
century it became
the site of workshops producing
cloth, soap, paper and liqueurs.
The creek was paved over at
the end of the 19
th
century,
creating a street that quickly
became the animated centre
of commercial activity and
nightlife. Today people of all
ages come to Tkala for its
small boutiques, traditional
shops, restaurants and cafs.
Marija Juri Zagorka
Born into a wealthy family, the
writer Marija Juri Zagorka
(1873 1957) was very much
a woman ahead of her time,
becoming the first female
professional journalist in Croatia
and a champion of equal rights.
Writing under the pen-name
Zagorka (which literally means
a woman from the Zagorje), she
wrote novels for a broad
readership in which
love stories and grand
historical themes were
intertwined. One of
her most popular
works was the series
of novels entitled
The Witch of Gri, a
saga set against the
background of 18
th
-
century witch-hunts.
Her statue, erected
in the 1991, is the
work of sculptor
Stjepan Graan.
The Glyptotheque
Just north of Tkalieva on
Medvedgradska is one of the best-
preserved industrial buildings in
Zagreb, a red-brick former leather
tannery that now provides a home
for the grandly-named Glyptotheque.
Belonging to the Croatian
Academy of Arts and Sciences,
the Glyptotheque is basically a
collection of plaster copies of
famous sculptures. The permanent
display includes casts of significant
Croatian works, and original
sculptures from the 19
th
and 20
th

centuries. In addition, top-quality
exhibitions of contemporary art and
design are frequently held here.
18 Step by step
5. 6.
The Bloody
Bridge
The Bloody Bridge
This alley connecting Tkalieva
with Radieva is called Bloody
Bridge (Krvavi most in Croatian)
because it was the location of a
bridge that connected Gradec and
Kaptol and a spot perfectly set for
their frequent squabbles. Rights to
the watermills along Medveak
creek gave frequent grounds for
dispute, and the bridge across
the creek was the spot where
these arguments occasionally
turned violent. The bridge itself
was torn down in the year 1899
but the name is still bone by the
small street that replaced it.
The public library on the corner
of Bloody Bridge originally
housed Zagrebs first telephone
exchange. It was set up by local
entrepreneur Vilim Schwarz in
1887, only eleven years after
Alexander Bell patented the
telephone in America. Awarded
a concession by the Ministry of
Development and Communications,
Schwarz installed an exchange
that served 45 subscribers.
The Witches of
the Upper Town
A series of trials
initiated by the
Church during the
early 17
th
century
resulted in several
local women
being burned
at the stake for
witchcraft. It was
believed that
these women
formed a secret
sect and that
they flew to their
trysts with the
help of a magic
ointment. These
trysts allegedly
took place at
the night at
several symbolic
locations, such as
the Manduevac
spring or the
summit of Mount
Medvednica. In
the mid-18
th

century Empress
Maria Theresa
abolished witch
trials throughout
her domains.
Inspired by these
historical facts,
novelist Marija
Juri Zagorka
drew attention to
the persecution
of these innocent
women and
encouraged the
women of the
early 20
th
century
to fight for
their rights.
Radieva
Radieva
This gently sloping street that
leads to the Upper Town from
the main square was named after
Croatian politician Pavle Radi,
who was assassinated during
a debate in the Parliament in
Belgrade in 1928. Before that the
street was known as the Long
Street and wooden houses there
were often damaged by fires, so
over time they were replaced by
multiple-storey brick buildings.
The street was one of the citys
principal business centres in the
19
th
century, and it was here at
no. 30 that the first branch of
the Croatian Savings Bank was
opened in 1880. As another point
of interest, the writer Miroslav
Krlea was born at no. 7.
St George
This work by the Austrian
sculptors Kompatscher and Winder
was brought to Zagreb at the
beginning of the 20
th
century as
a gift from the Maurani family,
although it wasnt set down at
its current location until 1994. It
is one of the rare portrayals of St
George after he has actually killed
the dragon, and shows him paying
respects to the vanquished beast.
20 Step by step
7. The Stone Gate
The Stone Gate
One enters the Upper Town
through the Stone Gate (Kamenita
vrata in Croatian), the only old
town gate that has remained
intact. Built in the Middle Ages,
it assumed its final form after
being rebuilt in the 18
th
century.
Under the arch of the gateway is
a chapel dedicated to the Virgin
Mary. It holds a painting of the
Virgin that was miraculously
saved from a devastating fire in
the year 1731, and the chapel
has been a place of pilgrimage
ever since. The Virgin Mary is
the patron saint of Zagreb,
and Her feast day on May
31 is also the date of
the annual city holiday.
Chains from HMS Victory
Placed at their current location
in 1878, the chains belonged
originally to the famous British
warship HMS Victory. The Victory
was Admiral Nelsons flagship
at the Battle of Trafalgar in
1805, when Napoleons fleet
was decisively beaten by the
British Navy. Admiral Nelson
died on his ship during the
final stages of the battle.
Dora Krupi
Dora Krupi is a character from
August enoas novel The
Goldsmiths Gold. Published in
1871, the book is considered to
be Croatias first real historical
novel. The plot centres on a 16
th
-
century love story involving a
nobleman and a town girl called
Dora, the kindly and beautiful
daughter of a goldsmith. Tragically,
Dora ends up being poisoned
by an evil local barber, enraged
by her refusal of his marriage
proposal. A bronze sculpture by
Ivo Kerdi was commissioned
in her honour in 1929.
Zagrebs Oldest Pharmacy
Kamenita ulica (Stone Street) is
the site of the oldest pharmacy in
Zagreb, founded in the year 1355.
Documents suggest that Nicolo
Alighieri, great-grandson of Dante
Alighieri, worked here way back
in 1399 as a pharmacist. In more
or less continuous operation since
it first opened, the pharmacy
is still very much in business.
August enoa
(1838 - 1881),
Croatian novelist,
short story writer,
poet, critic and
journalist. enoa
was the most
productive and
influential Croatian
writer of the 19
th

century. His opus
mainly consists
of historical
novels that use
various periods of
Croatian history
as the backdrop.
enoa rose to
become the Mayor
of Zagreb, dying
of pneumonia
after working
tirelessly to assist
those citizens
affected by the
great earthquake
of 1880.
22 Step by step
O
Opatika 10
O
Opatika 18
O
The Zagreb City Museum
O
Ilirski trg
O
The Priests Tower 8. Opatika
Opatika 10
The splendid palaces along
Opatika bear witness to many a
key event in Zagrebs history. For
example the palace at Opatika 10
takes us back to the 19
th
century,
a time of reawakened interest
in national culture. Adapted for
the needs of the Department of
Divine Worship and Teaching, the
three-winged palace served as
the seat of the administration for
culture and education in Croatian
territories at that time. A striking
entrance featuring
an ornate wrought-iron fence
overlooked by busts of Greek
philosophers Plato and Aristotle
hints at the majesty of the
buildings most famous reception
room, the so-called Golden Hall.
This lavishly-decorated space was
filled with paintings by the most
distinguished pre-World War I
artists, Vlaho Bukovac, Celestin
Medovi, Oton Ivekovi and Robert
Frange Mihanovi among them.
Today the palace houses the
Croatian Institute of History.
Opatika 18
Built in Neo-Classical style, the
former palace of the aristocratic
Drakovi family at Opatika 18
became an important focus of
Croatian culture when it was
purchased by the Illyrians, a 19
th
-
century movement devoted to the
promotion of Croatian language
and literature. Renamed the
National Hall, the palace hosted
many important cultural events,
while its main reception room, the
so-called Revival Hall, became the
venue for political rallies and balls.
24 Step by step Step by step 25
Public Gas
Lighting
Both the Upper
Town and Kaptol
have retained the
gas streetlights
that date back to
the beginning of
the 19
th
century.
Every day at sunset
two lamp lighters
(the so-called
naigai) light
more than 200
gas lanterns in
the streets.
The Zagreb City Museum
The Zagreb City Museum is housed
in the restored former convent
of St Clare, whose nuns gave
Opatika ulica its name (opatica
being the Croatian word for
nun). The Sisters of St Clare came
to Zagreb in the 17
th
century
in response to an invitation by
Croatian nobles, many of whose
daughters entered their order.
The nuns organized the citys
first school for girls, teaching
music and singing alongside
more mainstream academic
subjects. The buildings main
facade was built without windows,
helping the nuns to retain their
isolation from everyday life.
Since 1947 the building has
been the home of the City
Museum, which presents Zagrebs
long history in a contemporary
and entertaining way.
Ilirski trg
The northernmost point of the
Upper Town is Ilirski trg or Illyrian
Square, named after the Illyrian
movement which spearheaded
Croatias cultural and political
revival during the first half
of the 19
th
century. Both the
picturesque chapel in the middle
of the square and the sound of
music wafting from the nearby
ballet school help to create a
uniquely romantic setting.
The Priests Tower
Known by the locals as the Priests
Tower, the round tower at the
northern end of Opatika was
built in the 13
th
century to help
ward off the threat of Ottoman
attack. Fortifications like these
had lost their primary purpose by
the 17
th
century, and the Priests
Tower became the citys main food
storehouse. The nuns of St Clare
subsequently held classes in the
tower, and in 1903 an observatory
was opened on the top floor.
26 Step by step
O
St Marks Church
O
Banski dvori
O
Sabor
O
Matija Gubec
O
The Metrovi Atelier
O
The Croatian
History Museum 9.
St Marks
Square
St Marks Church
St Marks Square (Trg
svetog Marka) constitutes
the heart of the Upper
Town, having formerly
served as the main market
square of the settlement
of Gradec. Dominating
the square is the 13
th
-century
Church of St Mark, a three-
aisled Romanesque church which
still retains much of its original
shape. The Gothic arched ceiling
and the sanctuary were added in
the late 14
th
century, along with
the fifteen statues that stand in
niches above the southern portal.
Some of the statues were made by
masters from the Parler workshop
in Prague in around 1420.
The church was substantially
rebuilt in the Neo-Gothic style
by Herman Boll at the end of
the 19
th
century. The roof tiles,
decorated with the coats of arms
of the Triune Kingdom of Croatia,
Dalmatia and Slavonia and the city
of Zagreb also date to this period.
The interior was restored between
1936 and 1938 by the sculptor
Ivan Metrovi and the painter
Jozo Kljakovi. Metrovis work
in the church includes the large
crucifix above the main altar, the
Piet in the apse and a silver cross,
as well as the Madonna portrayed
as a village woman in the south
apse. Kljakovis murals in the
main body of the church portray
scenes from The Old and The New
Testaments, while in
the adjacent chapel
of St Fabian and
Sebastian they focus
on themes from
Croatian history.
Banski dvori
The Banski dvori or Governors
Palace at St Marks Square 1 is the
seat of the Croatian Government
and also houses the office of the
Prime Minister. The palace was
built in the beginning of the 19
th

century and was home to the
Croatian bans (governors) from
1808 to 1918. The legendary Ban
Josip Jelai lived and died here.
Sabor
The Croatian Sabor or Parliament
has held its sessions at this
location ever since 1737. The
current building dates from the
beginning of the 20
th
century. It
was here that members voted
to sever political ties from the
Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918
and from Yugoslavia in 1991.
O
The Old City Hall
O
The Croatian
Museum of
Naive Art
28 Step by step Step by step 29
Matija Gubec
Matija Gubec was the leader
of a major uprising by Croatian
peasants, in which a peasant army
took on the local landowners near
Stubike Toplice in 1573. With
the defeat of the peasants Gubec
was taken to Zagreb for trial.
He was executed on St Marks
Square on February 15 of the
same year, reportedly by being
crowned with a circle of red-
hot iron (an ironic reference
to his much vaunted status
as king of the peasants),
then quartered. It is
believed that his face
is depicted on the
corner of a building
in St Marks Square.
The Metrovi Atelier
The Metrovi Atelier is a part of
the Ivan Metrovi Foundation,
set up by the world-renowned
Croatian sculptor. A collection of
his works is presented in the house
in which he lived with his family
from 1922 to 1942. Metrovi
bought two houses whose owners
since the 18
th
century had been
button makers, a teacher of poetry
and noblemens families. With
the help of his architect
friends, he adapted the
houses and turned them
into a studio and an
apartment, which he
bequeathed to his
homeland Croatia.
Ivan Metrovi
(1883 1962), the
greatest Croatian
sculptor of all
time and the first
globally recognized
Croatian artist.
Born into a
poor family in
the Dalmatian
hinterland, his
talent was
discovered by his
fellow-townsmen
who paid his
education in
Vienna. He went
on to work in the
most important
centres of
European art. His
sculptures can
be found all over
the world, both
in permanent
museum
exhibitions and
in numerous
public places.
He is perhaps
best known
for The Victor,
which stands in
Kalemegdan Park,
Belgrade, and the
huge equestrian
statues of Indians
he produced
for Grant Park
in Chicago.
The Croatian History Museum
Built in the 18
th
-century, the
impressive Baroque Vojkovi
Ori Rauch Palace has had
many owners and tenants over
the centuries. According to
some, the buildings first owner
Vojkovi made a fortune by
securing advantageous marriages
to older, richer women. During
the good old days of coaches
and crinolines, members of the
Croatian social elite happily
gathered here for balls and
concerts in the hall on the first
floor. Since 1959 the palace has
been home to the Croatian History
Museum. There is no permanent
collection on display, but seasonal
exhibitions on key themes of
local history provide a wealth of
insights into the countrys past.
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irilometodska
Running south from St Marks
Square, irilometodska boasts
a wealth of Baroque palaces
that once belonged to the local
aristocracy. The present name
honours the Slavic apostles iril
and Metod (Cyril and Methodius)
who devised the first Slavic script,
known as Glagolitic (glagoljica),
in the 9
th
century. The Greek
Catholic church that stands mid-
way along the street was also
named after the two apostles. The
church assumed its current form
in the 19
th
century after a design
by the architect Hermann Boll.
Street Names
Many street
names in the
Upper Town have
changed several
times through
history. Restorers
cleaning the
facades of the
Upper Towns
historic houses
have uncovered
archaic bilingual
street names
long hidden
under layers of
plaster. Croatian
street names in
Zagreb dialect
were written in
Roman script,
whereas German
versions of the
same names
were written in
Gothic script.
The Old City Hall
The complex of buildings at the
corner of irilometodska served
as Zagrebs City Hall until after
World War II, when it was moved
to a newer part of town. Since
the Middle Ages this was where
town officials held sessions. Today
however only some ceremonial
sessions are held at the old
location, and with marriage
ceremonies performed here on
Saturdays it remains a place close
to the hearts of many a Zagreb
family. It was also here that
Zagrebs first theatre was built
in 1833, financed by Kristofor
Stankovi a local merchant
who had just won the grand
prize at the Vienna lottery. It
was initially a German-language
theatre, although something of a
historical first occurred in 1835
when Croatian was used on stage
during the intermission. In 1840
the first full-length Croatian
play, Juran and Sofija by Ivan
Kukuljevi, was performed here,
to be followed six years later by
the first Croatian opera, Love
and Malice by Vatroslav Lisinski.
The Croatian Museum
of Naive Art
The Croatian Museum of
Naive Art is located in one
section of a Baroque palace in
irilometodska 3. Considered
to be the worlds first museum
devoted to naive art, it displays
the works of over 20 Croatian
masters of the genre, including
the likes of Generali, Lackovi
Croata and Rabuzin. These
colourful paintings by Croatias
self-taught artists are simply
bursting with the joys of life.
32 Step by step
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St Catherines
Church
O
Zagrebs first
Humanistic
Secondary School
O
The Klovievi
Dvori Gallery
O
The View from
Gradec 10.
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Antun Gustav
Mato
O
Funicular
O
Lotrak Tower
Catherines
Square
St Catherines Church
Dominating Catherines Square
(Katarinin trg) is Zagrebs most
beautiful Baroque church. The
church was built by the Jesuits
in the first half of the 17
th

century. It consists of a single
aisle with six side chapels, and
a sanctuary which ends with a
grand Illusionist mural modelled
on the one found in the Il Gesu
Jesuit church in Rome. The chapels
hold five wooden Baroque
altars from the second half
of the 17
th
century, and one
made of marble in 1729.
The church faade
was reconstructed by
Hermann Boll after
the 1880 earthquake.
Zagrebs first Humanistic
Secondary School
The Jesuits, a Roman Catholic
religious order known for their
scientific and educational
activities, founded the first
Humanistic Secondary School
in Zagreb in the year 1607. The
school provided a humanistic
education for hundreds of
students from all walks of life,
from children of farmers and city
folk to children from noble
families.
The Klovievi Dvori Gallery
The Klovievi Dvori Gallery is
housed in the former Jesuit
monastery on Jesuit Square
(Jezuitski trg), which got its name
after the religious order that was
invited to Croatia by Croatian
noblemen. The monastery complex
stands next to St Catherines
church and was built in stages
throughout the 17
th
and 18
th

centuries. Named after the famous
Croatian miniature painter Julije
Klovi (1498-1578), the gallery
hosts large-scale art exhibitions by
both domestic and international
artists. On the opposite side of
the square from the gallery is the
"Fisherman" sculpture by Simeon
Roksandi. It adorns the Upper
Towns first fountain, built in 1911.
The View from Gradec
Behind St Catherines church there
is a beautiful view from Gradec
towards Kaptol, the cathedral,
Dolac market and the main
square. The monumental dome of
Mirogoj cemetery and the green
foothills of Mount Medvednica
are clearly visible in the distance.
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11.
The Strossmayer
Promenade
The Strossmayer Promenade
Running along the southern rim
of Gradec hill, the tree-lined
Strossmayer Promenade was built
at the end of the 19
th
century
with money donated by private
citizens. It was named after
Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer, a
prominent member of the Croatian
cultural revival and an immensely
influential figure in 19
th
-century
society and politics. The nearby
State Weather Bureau has been
continuously tracking
weather conditions ever
since its foundation
in 1862, contributing
greatly to our knowledge
of how global climatic
changes take place.
Antun Gustav Mato
Visitors can soak in the view of
central Zagreb in the company
of poet Antun Gustav Mato
(1873-1914), whose statue sits
on a bench beside Strossmayer
Promenade. Although not
born in Zagreb, Mato grew to
become one of the citys greatest
enthusiasts, writing frank and
outspoken newspaper columns
that extolled the bohemian life
of the city. He also wrote some
of the best-loved poems in
the Croatian language.
Mato packed a lot into
his relatively short life,
and is remembered as
something of an archetypal
rebel and dreamer. Ivan
Koaris sculpture of
Mato was placed on the
promenade in 1978.
Funicular
The 66-metre-long funicular that
connects the Upper and Lower
Town is the shortest passenger
cable railway in the world. The
height difference between top
and bottom is 30.5 meters and
the funicular takes 55 seconds to
make the journey. 28 grownups
can ride in it at one time and
it goes up every ten minutes.
Opened for passengers in 1890,
when it was powered by steam,
the funicular was the first ever
means of public transport to be
used in Zagreb, pre-dating horse-
drawn trams by a whole year.
Lotrak Tower
This is the only preserved mediaeval
tower from the 13
th
-century
fortifications, slightly modified in
the 19
th
century, with a small look-
out post on top. The bells of the
Lotrak tower used to summon the
townsfolk to return to the town at
sunset, when the gates were locked
for the night. Nowadays Lotrak is
more famous for its cannon, which
is fired every day at noon. The
canon-firing tradition was initiated
on New Years Day 1877, although
several legends connect it with
much earlier events. According to
one story, the cannon was presented
to the townsfolk by Hungarian
King Bela IV in 1242, as a reward
for protecting him from marauding
Tatarson condition that the cannon
was fired every. The cannon could
also have come from the spoils
of a victory over the Turks, but
whichever story is true, locals set
their watches by the sound of the
shot heard all over the city centre.
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The Lower
Town
12. Nikola ubi Zrinski
Square
13. King Tomislav Square
14. Maruli Square
15. Marshal Tito Square
16. Masarykova
17. Petar Preradovi Square
18. Ilica
19. Juriieva
12.
Nikola ubi
Zrinski Square
Zrinjevac
In a city that has more than its fair
share of green squares, Zrinjevac is
arguably the best loved of them all.
Its certainly hard to imagine that
this neat quadrangle of flowerbeds
was until the late 19
th
century a
meadow where cattle markets
took place. It was subsequently
transformed into an elegant
promenade with plane trees
imported from Trieste, a wrought-
iron bandstand, fountains and
busts of notable figures. The square
gets its name from Nikola ubi
Zrinski (1508 1566), the Croatian
Ban who died during the heroic
defence of Szigetvar, a Hungarian
fortress besieged by the Ottoman
Turks. Zrinjevac is the northernmost
square of Lenucis Horseshoe, a
line of eight green spaces laid out
by municipal engineer Milan Lenuci
in the 19
th
century. An outdoor
gallery of 19
th
- and 20
th
-century
urban culture is a convenient
starting point for a walking
tour of the Lower Town.
The Meteorological Post
Since 1884 weather conditions
have been recorded on the
meteorological pole here. It was
a present to the city of Zagreb
by Adolf Holzer, a physician. You
can stand next to the marble
post and check the temperature
and air pressure and coordinate
your watch with a 24-hour dial.
In the 19
th
century numerous
wealthy citizens donated valuable
public facilities to the city, among
them the nearby bandstand.
The First Fountain
The first fountain in Zagreb was
built shortly after the opening of
the Zagreb waterworks in 1878.
It was designed by architect
Herman Boll and serves as a
great place to find refreshment
during hot summer days.
Because of its swelling, organic
shape the fountain is popularly
known as The Mushroom.
The Archeological Museum
Housed in the Vranyczany-Hafner
Palace, the Archeological Museum
boasts a varied collection of
400,000 artefacts in five main
collections. The most enigmatic
item on display is the Liber linteus
Zagrabiensis or Zagreb Flax Book, a
long strip of linen that was used
to wrap the mummified body of
an Egyptian tailors wife. The cloth
was decorated with an Etruscan
liturgical calendar, and is the
longest preserved text in Etruscan,
a language that still hasnt been
completely deciphered. The most
charming tenantof the museum
is the unhappy Plautilla, a 2
nd
-
century find of Salona (an ancient
city near Split) whose statue is
considered one of the best examples
of portraiture in Roman sculpture.
Croatias most famous archeological
find is the Vudol Dove (Vuedolska
golubica), a clay vessel in the
shape of a bird that was probably
used in religious rituals some
3,000 years before Christ.
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The Meteorological
Post
O
The First Fountain
O
The Archeological
Museum
O
HAZU The Croatian
Academy of Arts
and Sciences
O
The Gallery of
Modern Art
HAZU
The Croatian Academy of Arts and
Sciences the highest institution
devoted to science and art in
Croatia, is housed in a Neo-
Renaissance palace that was built
exactly for this purpose in 1880.
Towards the back of the entrance
hall is the Baka Tablet, one of
the oldest stone inscriptions
written in the Croatian language.
Dating from the turn of the
12
th
century, the inscription is
written in Glagolitic, the highly
decorative script used in Croatia
before Roman letters became
more widespread. Upstairs is
the Strossmayer Gallery of Old
Masters, displaying works of art
from the 15
th
to the 19
th
century.
Based on the private collection
of the Academys founder, Bishop
J. J. Strossmayer, the gallery
includes works attributed to
Tintoretto, Veronese, El Greco
and many more. One should not
miss the unforgettable Baroque
painting Abraham sacrifices
Isaac by Federiko Benkovi.
The Gallery of Modern Art
The 19
th
- century palace standing
opposite to the Academy is home
to the Gallery of Modern Art,
which covers Croatian visual arts
of the 19
th
and 20
th
centuries. Two
centuries of Croatian paintings
and sculptures are presented
through the works of the most
significant Croatian artists. Works
are exhibited chronologically,
beginning with the Croatian
historical subjects painted by
pre-World War I artists such as
Oton Ivekovi and Vlaho Bukovac.
The display continues with the
mysterious symbolism of Croatian
Art Nouveau artists and the
poetic soft shades of the painter
Emanuel Vidovi. Early 20
th
-
century works by Kraljevi, Rai
and Beci reflect the turmoil of
European modernism. The gallery
also includes a selection of works
by contemporary Croatian artists.
44 Step by step Step by step 45
13.
King Tomislav
Square
King Tomislav
A monument dedicated to
Tomislav, Croatias first king,
dominates the square carrying
his name. This courageous
warrior defended the continental
part of Croatia from Hungarian
attacks and for the first time
united all Croatian lands into one
country. Tomislav successfully
sought papal recognition of
his realm, and was crowned as
king in the year 925. Despite
dying mysteriously three years
later, his status as founder of
the Croatian state has never
been in doubt. The statue of
Tomislav on horseback was
completed by sculptor Robert
Frange Mihanovi in 1938,
although protracted political
difficulties and the outbreak
of World War II prevented the
statue from being installed in
its current location until 1947.
Zagreb Words
furt = always
frtalj = a quarter
haustor = house entrance
plac = market, square
uster = shoe-maker
taubek = pigeon
gemit = white wine and mineral water
tenge = stairs
pancir = a walk
puca = a girl
purger = a person from Zagreb
ura = clock
nicl = steak
gelender = handrail
kefa = brush
fest = a lot
virle = frankfurter
fanik = carnival
lajbek = vest
grincajg = soup vegetables
The Main Railway Station
The railway arrived in Zagreb
in 1862, connecting the
40,000-strong city to the
economic and cultural centres
of Vienna and Budapest. Built
in 1892, the station building
was designed by Hungarian
architect Ferenc Pfaff, something
of a specialist when it came to
railway stations. Incorporating
a mixture of Renaissance and
Neo-classical elements, it is a
fine addition to the parade of
buildings that lies along the
route of Lenucis Horseshoe.
Travellers coming out of the
railway station are confronted
with one of the most beautiful
views in Zagreb, which takes in
the statue of King Tomislav, the
Art Pavilion, the cathedrals spires
and the green slopes of Mount
Medvednica in the distance.
46 Step by step
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King Tomislav
O
The Main Railway
Station
O
The Art Pavilion
O
Hotel Esplanade
The Art Pavilion
Marking the northern end of
King Tomislav Square is the Art
Pavilion, originally built to serve
as the Croatian Pavilion at the
Budapest Millennial Exhibition of
1896. Constructed using the latest
in metal frame techniques, the
pavilion was disassembled at the
end of the Budapest exhibition,
transported to Zagreb by train, and
re-erected at its current location.
The ceremonial opening took place
in 1898 accompanied by a grand
exhibition of contemporary artists.
The pavilion was Zagrebs first
dedicated space for art shows, and
has been an important venue for
high-profile exhibitions ever since.
Licitar
(Gingerbread
Heart)
The "licitar" is
a bright red
heart-shaped
gingerbread
cookie that has
long served as a
symbol of love
and affection.
Sold at parish
fairs for centuries,
the licitar was
originally an
edible sweet
cookie containing
honey, although
it is now a largely
decorative gift
that is meant to be
kept rather than
eaten. Brightly
decorated licitars,
moulded into
various shapes and
richly decorated,
also serve as
a favourite
traditional
Christmas tree
decoration.
Hotel Esplanade
The hotel is close to the main
railway station and was built
in very short time in 1925. The
original purpose of the hotel
was to provide top-notch
accommodation for passengers on
the Orient Express, the luxurious
service linking Paris and Istanbul
and which used Zagreb as one
of the stops. Many celebrity
guests stayed at the hotel, which
became an important centre for
society events. The Zagreb public
was particularly intrigued by the
performance of a provocative
dancer Josephine Baker in 1929,
when several virtuous local ladies
expressed their disapproval. It was
also here that Zagrebs first beauty
contest was held in 1926, with the
winner going on to be crowned
Miss Europe in the following year.
Guardians
Frozen in Time
During his or her
walks through
Zagreb the careful
observer will
notice unusual
characters on
facades, balconies,
posts and towers,
next to windows
and above doors.
Beasts and
demons, dragons
and owls, angels
and spirits are
not just here
to serve as
architectural
decorations.
As guardians of
the city they are
all on a secret
mission, and
although they
stand motionless
during the
daytime, the
luckiest of visitors
may yet see
them at work.
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14.
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The Croatian
State Archives
O
The Botanical
Gardens
O
The Ethnographic
Museum
Maruli
Square
The Croatian State Archives
Maruli Square is dominated
by the former National and
University Library, today home
to the Croatian State Archives.
Designed by architect Rudolf
Lubynski in 1913, the building
is by far the most beautiful
example of Croatian Art Nouveau.
Every detail, from the decorative
elements on the facade to the
reading lamps on the desks, was
meticulously designed by the
leading artists of the day. The
building is rich in symbolism,
with rooftop groups of globe-
bearing owls pointing to the
librarys educational purpose.
Similarly, allegories of science
and the book trade adorn
the facade.
Marko Maruli,
writer and humanist,
(1450 1524).
Writing in Latin,
Italian and Croatian,
Marko Maruli was
a towering figure
of the Croatian
Renaissance. Often
considered the
father of Croatian
literature, his
most significant
achievement was
in penning the
epic poem Judith
(Judita), the first
literary work to be
published in the
Croatian language.
Inspired by the
Old-Testament
Jewish heroine
who famously
beheaded the
Babylonian
warlord Holofernes,
the book was
intended to serve
as a metaphor
for Christian
Croatias struggle
against the
Ottoman Empire.
The Botanical Gardens
Running parallel to the railway
tracks, the Botanical Gardens form
the southern part of the green
belt known as Lenucis Horseshoe.
Every spring since the late 19
th

century the gardens have opened
their gates to the public. Pride
of the gardens is the collection
of 10,000 or more plant species,
ranging from exotic imports to
indigenous Croatian plants. The
gardens are open until sundown
and entrance is free of charge, but
there are strict rules governing
behaviour. It is forbidden to
walk on the grass, shout, ride
a bicycle or pick flowers. The
greenery, the wonderful scents
and a general sense of peace
constitute a true oasis in the
centre of the city. The gardens
are located on Mihanovieva,
named after the author of
Croatias national anthem Lijepa
naa domovino (Our Beautiful
Homeland), Antun Mihanovi.
The Ethnographic Museum
The Ethnographic Museum is
located in the former Chamber of
Trade, an Art Nouveau building
dating from 1903. The museum
itself was founded in 1919 on
the initiative of Salamon Berger,
a factory owner from Slovakia
who donated his huge collection
of folk costumes and textiles
to the institution. As well as
the costumes, visitors can see
traditional household utensils
and musical instruments from
all over Croatia. A further point
of interest are the collections
donated by brothers Stevo and
Mirko Seljan, famous Croatian
explorers who returned from
Africa and South America with
a wealth of native artefacts.
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15.
Marshal
Tito Square
The Croatian National Theatre
The Croatian National Theatre
is located on Trg marala Tita
(Marshal Tito Square), which
is named after Josip Broz Tito
(1892 1980), former president
of the Yugoslav Federation.
This square, formerly known as
University and Theatre Square, is
the last in the arc of eight green
squares that formed Lenucis
Horseshoe, the central component
of 19
th
-century Zagrebs urban
plan. Well-known Viennese
architects Ferdinand Fellner and
Herman Helmer, who designed
forty other European theatres,
were responsible for the plans
for the building, employing a rich
Neo-Baroque style that was at
the time thought most suitable
for theatres. Officially opened
in 1895, the building brings the
national opera, ballet and drama
companies together under a
single roof. With a repertoire
that ranges from classics to
contemporary pieces, and with
both Croatian and international
works well represented, the
theatre occupies a central place
in the cultural life of the capital.
The Well of Life
Placed in front of the National
Theatre in 1912, the Well of
Life is one of Croatian sculptor
Ivan Metrovis most popular
works. Dating from Metrovis
youthful, playful period, it is
a sensual piece of work that
many believe to be among his
best. It basically consists of a
circular pool surrounded by a
bronze frieze of intertwined
nude figures. From children to
loving couples and old people,
the figures appear to be reaching
over the lip of the fountain to
scoop up the water, suggesting
a universal theme of human zest
for life and interdependence.
Zagreb University
Running along the north side
of the square is the main
administrative building of Zagreb
University. Founded in 1669, it is
the oldest university in Croatia,
and also one of the oldest in
Europe. It currently consists of
29 faculties, three academies
and one university centre.The
administrative building, built in
the 19
th
century, was originally
used as a hospital, and for a time
even served as a tobacco factory.
In front of the entrance is Ivan
Metrovis History of the Croats,
a seated figure of a woman
(based on the sculptors mother)
which eloquently symbolizes the
calm strength of the nation. The
sculpture was placed here in
1971, and has served as a popular
patriotic symbol ever since.
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O
The Croatian
National Theatre
O
The Well of Life
O
Zagreb University
O
The Museum of Arts
and Crafts
O
St George
O
The Mimara Museum
The Museum of Arts and Crafts
Occupying the west side of the
square is the Museum of Arts
and Crafts, founded in 1880 and
one of the first institutions of its
kind in Europe. It was originally
charged with the cultivation of
traditional crafts and their use in
modern design and manufacture.
As a result, the School of
Decorative Arts (the present-
day School of Applied Arts and
Design) was established next
to the museum. The permanent
exhibition at the museum covers
three floors and presents the
development of applied arts
from the Gothic period right
through to Art-Deco. The display
includes clocks and watches,
metalwork, glass, ceramics
and textiles. The museum also
organizes themed exhibitions
about the history of design as
well as contemporary art shows.
St George
The theme of St George killing
the dragon has been a popular
motif since medieval times,
symbolizing the struggle between
good and evil and the victory of
Christianity over paganism. This
particular portrayal of the saint
was produced by Austrian sculptor
Anton Fernkorn. The original made
its way to a noblemans palace in
Vienna in 1853, although a zinc
cast was brought to Zagreb. This
bronze copy was placed at its
current location in 1908, since
when the virtuous knight has been
on display killing the dragon
for just over a century.
The Mimara Museum
Built in the late 19
th
century
to serve as a high school, the
Neo-Renaissance palace on
Roosevelt Square holds the
wide-ranging collections of the
Mimara Museum. The museum
was founded to display the
artworks donated by private
collector Ante Topi Mimara, and
was first opened to the public in
1987. The permanent exhibition
at the museum is organized into
a chronological sequence of
historical periods, from the times
of ancient Egypt and Greece to
paintings and drawings by great
masters like Raphael, Velasquez,
Rubens, Rembrandt and Goya.
The museums glass collection
offers a wonderful insight
into the changing artistic
values of the glass-making
trade over the centuries.
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16.
O
The Kallina House
O
The Apartment of
Viktor Kovai
O
Zagrebs First
Skyscraper
O
Nikola Tesla Masarykova
The Kallina House
The street named after Toma
Masaryk, the first president of
Czechoslovakia, has been the
site of impressive-looking office
buildings and apartment blocks
ever since the 19
th
century. One
of the more fascinating examples
of the latter is the Kallina House,
built on the corner of the street
in 1904 by architect Vjekoslav
Bastl. One of the main investors
in the project was the owner
of a ceramics factory, and the
faade of the building is covered
in brightly decorated ceramic
tiles. The Art Nouveau-inspired
decorative details are among
the most delightful in Zagreb,
while the stylized bat motifs will
certainly raise some eyebrows.
The Apartment of Viktor
Kovai
Built in 1906, the residential
building at Masarykova 21-23
was designed by the architect
Viktor Kovai, who reserved the
attic apartment for himself. Viktor
Kovai (1874 - 1924) was a great
promoter of practical architecture,
believing that apartments should
be built for real people rather
than just their furniture. Preserved
in very much the state in which
Kovai left it, this attic apartment
is one of the rare surviving
examples of a meticulously
planned early 20
th
-century
interior. Featuring carefully chosen
textiles, and furniture that is
both practical and good to look
at, it offers a fascinating insight
into the tastes of the time.
Zagrebs First Skyscraper
The building on the corner of
Masarykova and Gundulieva has
the honour of being the first ever
skyscraper built in Zagreb. Dating
from 1933, it was constructed in
a record-breakingly short period
of 79 days, thanks to the use
of modern building techniques.
Locals immediately hailed it
as a skyscraper, although the
buildings designer Slavko Lwy
protested that the nine-storey,
35-metre-high proportions
of the building made it
undeserving of such a
description. Whatever
we might want to call
it, this elegant example
of rational modernism
was one of
the highest
achievements
of Croatian
architecture in the
period between the
two world wars.
Nikola Tesla
Overlooking the intersection of
Masarykova and Teslina is a statue
of Nikola Tesla (1856 1943), that
was placed there on the 150
th

anniversary of the birth of this
exceptional scientist and innovator.
Nikola Tesla was born and raised
in Croatia and after finishing
his education in Europe Tesla
sought his fortune in the USA,
where he was instrumental in the
development and introduction
of alternating current, x-rays,
remote control devices and
radio waves. Thanks to
Teslas vision we can use
the internet and mobile
phones today. Tesla was a
secretive man who rarely
explained the thinking
that lay behind his
discoveries, leading many
to think of him a something
of a wizard. Even today,
not all of Teslas secrets
have been explained.
17.
O
Tin Ujevi
O
Mikecs Passage
O
The Oktogon
O
The Grounded Sun
O
The Napredak
Skyscraper
Petar Preradovi
Square
Petar Preradovi Square
Petar Preradovi Square (Trg
P. Preradovia) was named after
Petar Preradovi (1818 1872),
an army general who also wrote
patriotic verse and love poetry.
His statue stands in the middle
of the square and is a popular
meeting point. The square is
colloquially known as Flower
Square (Cvjetni trg), after the
flower stalls which have been a
feature of the place ever since the
14
th
century when fairs were held
here. On the northern side of the
square is the Orthodox Church of
the Holy Transfiguration, built at
the end of the 19
th
century on the
former site of the Roman Catholic
Church of St Margaret. Both the
square and the surrounding streets
are lined with pavement cafes, and
it is here that you can get a true
sense of Zagrebs outdoor lounge
culture. For the locals, coffee is
the ideal accompaniment to a
serious business meeting or a good
long gossip with a group of friends.
Tin Ujevi
The statue honouring Augustin
Tin Ujevi (1891 1955), one of
the greatest Croatian poets, was
placed near Flower Square on
the 100
th
anniversary of his birth.
Considered to be the last real
Croatian bohemian, Ujevi was
a professional poet who avoided
conventional lifestyles as long as
he lived. He wrote verses on every
possible subject, and there are few
people in Croatia who dont know
at least a few lines of his poems by
heart. There are many anecdotes
about Tin, his oversized old coat,
hat and the glass of wine he always
had in his hand while sitting in
one of the bars in Zagreb. Tin was
and remains an urban nomad.
Mikecs Passage
The passage that connects
Masarykova with Varavska is named
after Mikec, a much-loved local
character who occupies an important
position in urban folklore. Born
Mihail Erdec, Mikec was a well-
known pre-World War II acrobat
who was forced by injury into early
retirement and a life on the streets.
Bedding down in the grimy boiler
room of the Europa Cinema, he won
the sympathies of local residents by
doing odd jobs for neighbours and
serenading cinemagoers with tunes
on his mouth organ. A photo of the
unrequited love of his life tefica
Vidai, the first Miss Zagreb, hung
above his makeshift bed. Mikec lived
in the boiler room from the end of
World War II until the 1960s, when
he was finally persuaded to take
up a bed in an old peoples home.
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The Oktogon
Linking the relaxed atmosphere of
Flower Square with the bustling
shopping street of Ilica is the
Oktogon, an elegant pre-World
War I arcade lined with largely
upmarket shops. It gets its name
from the octagonal-shaped central
area, which stands beneath a
domed, stained-glass roof. The
representative business and
residential building of the former
First Croatian Savings Bank was
built at the end of the 19
th
century
in a record time of only 15 months.
The Necktie
Croatia is the
home of the
necktie, an
obligatory
accessory for
every business
meeting. During
the Thirty Years
War Croatian
soldiers in the
service of France
wore exotic
scarves around
their necks,
becoming a
source of serious
fascination to the
style-conscious
citizens of Paris.
The practice of
wearing such
scarves la croate
was especially
favoured by the
Sun King, Louis
XIV, and the
necktie soon
became a fashion
hit all over Europe.
The Grounded Sun
Arguably the most popular
example of contemporary
sculpture in Zagreb is The
Grounded Sun by Ivan Koari.
Set down amidst a forest of caf
tables and parasols, this simple
but unusual bronze sphere is a
source of constant intrigue to
passers-by. Some even push it to
see how far it will roll. Koaris
sun inspired another artist Davor
Preis to create the Zagreb Solar
System, in which metal spheres
representing the planets are
placed in locations all around the
city. The sizes of the planets and
the distances separating them are
all in exact proportion to Koaris
original sun: trying to find all nine
planets presents a real adventure.
The Napredak Skyscraper
Looming over the corner of
Bogovieva and Gajeva is the
curving faade of the Napredak
(Progress) building, built by the
Napredak Cultural Association in
1936 to serve as business space
and apartment accommodation.
Designed by Stjepan Plani,
the seven-storey building is
characterized by the cogwheel
motif that runs around the upper
part of the faade. The cogwheel
was the symbol of the association.
The light blue colour of the facade
is the architects homage to
traditional architecture and the
blue-coloured Copper Sulphate
used by wine-growers in
rural parts of Croatia to
stop various vine diseases.
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18. Ilica
Ilica
Of all the streets in Zagreb, Ilica
is the one which the locals hold
dearest. Six kilometers in length,
it was for a long time the longest
street in the city, although some
of the newer multi-lane avenues
are now longer. However Ilica
remains the symbolic main
artery of the city, with high-
street shops and government
buildings lining its eastern end,
theatres and markets (and even
Zagrebs first brewery) emerging
as it moves west. It is also one
of the rare streets that has kept
the same name since its origins
in the 15
th
century. Because
of its east-west direction it is
famous for the bright sunlight
that hits you as you walk
westward in the late afternoon.
Trams
The blue-liveried
Zagreb tram is one
of the citys most
easily identifiable
trademarks. Horse-
drawn trams were
introduced as
far back as 1891,
although electric
trams took over in
1910. A new sense
of style came to
Zagrebs tram-
lines in 2006, with
the introduction
of the super-sleek,
Andrija Kai Mioi
Connecting Ilica with the Upper
Town, Mesnika is a sloping
street that still retains its old
granite paving stones. It has its
origins in the Middle Ages, when
it was named after the butchers
shops (mesnika is Croatian
for butchers) that used to run
along its length. Standing at the
bottom of the street from 1891
is Ivan Rendis statue of Andrija
Kai Mioi (1704 1760), a
friar, poet and educator best
known for his Razgovor ugodni
naroda slovinskoga (Pleasant
Conversation of the Slav People),
a history of Croatia written in
verse. First published in 1756, it
has been reprinted over 70 times,
and remains the most frequently
read piece of literature written
in the Croatian language.
futuristic-looking
vehicles made by
the local Konar
engineering
works. Blue, the
official colour of
Zagreb, became
the standard
colour scheme for
the citys trams
shortly after
World War I. There
are currently
15 tram routes
operating during
the daytime,
and 4 at night.
62 Step by step
O
Andrija Kai Mioi
O
Britanski trg
O
The Church of Saint Blaise
Britanski trg
Britanski trg (British Square)
is a picturesque square with
several names (Ilica Square,
Small Market) famous for the
fresh produce market that draws
shoppers from all over the city on
weekday mornings. On Sundays
the square is taken over by a
lively antiques and bric-a-brac
market, which is as much a social
occasion as a chance to pick
up bargains. Lovers of antiques,
old postcards, vinyl records and
comics will have lots of fun
browsing the stalls, and there are
plenty of pavement cafes offering
sunshine and strong coffee.
Penkala (Pen)
It was in Zagreb
that a small but
very important
writing tool was
born. At the
beginning of
the 20
th
century,
Slavoljub Penkala
(1871 1922)
developed a
fountain pen that
soon replaced the
need for pen and
separate ink bottle.
Enthusiasm for
Penkalas invention
spread like wildfire,
and Zagreb became
a major global
centre for the
production of not
only fountain pens
but mechanical
The Church of Saint Blaise
Standing at the intersection of
Deelieva and Primorska is a
Church dedicated to St Blaise, a
4
th
-century martyr famous for
his gift of curing throat illnesses.
Begun in 1912, the church was
designed by Viktor Kovai and
combines Byzantine influences,
traditional Croatian styles and
modern construction techniques
to monumental effect. The
reinforced concrete dome was
the first of its kind in Croatia. An
exceptionally beautiful Nativity
scene, the work of sculptor Vojta
Brania from 1916, is exhibited
every year around Christmas.
pencils too.
Penkala was a
pioneer in other
fields, successfully
building and
testing the
first Croatian
aeroplane in 1910.
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19.
O
Stjepan Radi
O
Post Office
O
The Stock Market
O
HDLU
O
Novakova
O
Vlaka
O
August enoa Juriieva
Juriieva
Juriieva is the main business and
commercial street leading east
from Zagrebs main square. As well
as financial institutions, Juriieva
boasts a large post office building
dating from 1904 built in the
Hungarian Art-Nouveu style. At the
western end of the street, opposite
the Radi bookstore, there is a statue
of Stjepan Radi (1871 - 1928), a
prominent Croatian politician who
was fatally shot during a session of
the Parliament in Belgrade. As leader
of the Croatian Peasant Party Radi
was an inspirational speaker and
a genuine national leader, and he
remains the most widely respected
Croatian politician of all time.
Viktor Kovai,
Croatian architect
(1874 1924).
Considered
the father of
Croatian modern
architecture,
Kovai
discarded the
fancy decorative
tastes of the late
19
th
century in
favour of a much
more pragmatic
functionalist
style. However
he believed that
architecture
needed to
create the right
conditions for
comfortable
living, and always
combined the
best elements
of traditional
heritage with the
contemporary
taste for
straight lines.
The Stock Market
At the eastern end of Juriieva,
the fountain-splashed Trg
hrvatskih velikana (Square of the
Great Croatians) is dominated by
the former Zagreb Stock Exchange.
Designed by Viktor Kovai in
1922, it employs simple classical
elements to reflect the grand
nature of the institution. The stock
exchange for goods and valuables
existed in Zagreb since 1907 but
was closed down in 1945 because
speculative institutions were not
in line with the socialist agenda,
and the building today houses
the Croatian National Bank.
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HDLU
The nearby Trg rtava faizma
(Victims of Fascism Square)
centres on Zagrebs most unique
exhibition space, the circular
headquarters of the Croatian
Artists Association. Designed by
the sculptor Ivan Metrovi in
the 1930s, it was originally used
as an exhibition pavilion before
being turned into a mosque during
World War II complete with the
addition of minarets. After the
war the minarets were dismantled
and the building returned to
its original function, although
it is still referred to fondly as
the Mosque by the locals.
Novakova
Twisting its way uphill from
opposite the Ribnjak Park,
Novakova is Zagrebs best-
preserved example of a residential
street of the inter-war era. It is
lined with modern family villas
built according to modernist
principles, employing clean lines,
flat roofs and large windows.
Although clearly inspired by
international architectural trends
of the time, the villas represent
a blend of functionality and
organic design that is typical of
the Zagreb school of architecture.
Vlaka
Vlaka is a street characterized
by its row of well-preserved one-
storey houses and traditional
crafts workshops. Stretching
below the walls of the Kaptol
district, it was originally settled
by Italian traders, which is how
the street got its name - Italians
were referred to as Vlasi in old
Croatian. It was in Vlaka that
the novelist August enoa was
born, a fact commemorated by
the street-corner sculpture of him
leaning against an advertising
pillar, a work of sculptor Marija
Ujevi. The pillar is inscribed
with one of enoas poems,
eulogising the beautiful and
proud city which he loved.
Gingerbread
Cookies
Aromatic
gingerbread
cookies have
been baked in
Zagreb since
time immemorial.
Flavoured with
honey, walnuts
and pepper,
these biscuits
traditionally
served as the
principal sweet
treat during the
winter holidays.
The sweet peppery
taste goes best
with a cup of
warm tea. It is
also good to
know that the
crisp gingerbread
dough tastes
better with time.
Outside
the Centre
O
The Technical Museum
O
Vukovar Avenue
O
The Museum of
Contemporary Art
O
The River Sava
O
Bundek
O
Jarun
O
Mirogoj
O
Maksimir Park
O
Medvednica
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Outside
the Centre
The Technical Museum
The Technical Museum is located
on Savska cesta, a busy street
that connects the centre of the
city with one of the main bridges
across the river Sava. Housed in
an innovative wooden pavilion
dating from the 1950, the
museum displays a host of notable
scientific and technological
achievements. Exhibits range
from horse-drawn trams to space
capsules, and visitors can even
visit a replica mine-shaft or take
part in experiments devised by the
great Nikola Tesla. The main hall
of the museum is taken up with
a fascination display of vintage
road vehicles and old aeroplanes.
Croatia was a home to important
innovators: along with Tesla, we
can also mention Faust Vrani
and Ruer Bokovi, and you
can learn something about all of
them in the Technical Museum.
Vukovar Avenue
World War II was followed by
an exceptionally fruitful period
for architectural projects in
Croatia, and Vukovar Avenue is
an outstanding example, with its
thoughtfully planned series of tall
residential buildings and state
institutions. Croatian architects
of that time resisted the dictates
of socialist realism and opted for
European modernist styles instead.
A splendid new City Hall was
designed by Kazimir Ostrogovi,
although it is outshone on the
beauty stakes by Marijan Haberles
Vatroslav Lisinski Concert
Hall, opened in 1973. Lisinski
(1819 1854) was the composer
of the first ever Croatian opera,
Love and Malice. Close to the
concert hall is the splendid glass-
and-steel building of the National
and University Library. Built in the
1990s, it holds over 2.5 million
books on 114 kilometres of shelves.
The Museum
of Contemporary Art
South of the river Sava, Novi
Zagreb (New Zagreb) is home
to the brand-new Museum of
Contemporary Art. The museums
permanent collection includes
both Croatian and international
modern art from the 1950s to the
present day. Completed in 2009,
the museum building takes the
form of an angular-looking wave
pattern a direct reference to the
meander motif developed by the
leading abstract artist Julije Knifer.
In the new building on almost
15,000 square meters enables
people from Zagreb and visitors
to the city to see original works
of art ranging from sculptures
and paintings to photographs,
films, videos, installations or
performances, all by Croatian and
internationally recognized artists.
Occasional exhibitions reflect
current trends in the world of art.
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Bundek
Adjacent to the river Sava lies
the Bundek, a 35 hectare oasis
of peace, greenery and nature
on the edges of Novi Zagreb.
Many locals come here at the
weekend to exercise, walk and
relax. The park is especially
suitable for families, thanks to
the presence of playgrounds for
children of various ages. Anglers
catch fish from lakes which are
also home to ducks and swans.
The River Sava
With a length of 940 km, the
river Sava is one of the three
longest rivers in Croatia, rising in
Slovenia and flowing southeast
to join the Danube in Belgrade.
The river has always played an
important role in the development
of Zagreb. The city originally
developed on the left bank of
the Sava, but after World War II
it spread to its right bank with
the creation of the new parts of
the city known as Novi Zagreb.
In the past the river guarded the
city from enemies but also posed
a threat to when its waters rose
and led to flooding. After the
great flood of 1964, the flow of
the Sava was tamed by building
canals and earthen banks on
either side of the river, which now
serve as foot- and cycle-paths.
Jarun
Southwest of the city centre
lies the man-made Lake Jarun,
Zagrebs very-own riviera.
Consisting of a big and a small
lake connected by a channel,
Jarun was created by the digging
of gravel from the backwaters of
the Sava after the catastrophic
flood of 1964. Jarun was
developed into a recreation era
in time for the World Student
Games, which were held in
Zagreb in 1987. Rowing facilities,
sports grounds and cycling tracks
were added, making Jarun the
largest sports and recreational
centre in the city. During the
day Jarun can be teeming with
people, whether they are simply
out for a walk or engaged in
more serious athletic training.
The lakeside pebble beaches fill
with bathers during the summer.
In the evening, cafes and clubs
along the lakefront attract people
looking for a fun night out.
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Mirogoj
Zagrebs main cemetery, Mirogoj,
crowns a low hill just outside the
city centre. Built in the late 19
th

century by Hermann Boll, it is a
wonderful example of a grand civic
graveyard, featuring monumental
arcades, domed gatehouses
and pavilion chapels. Opened in
1876 with the funeral of fencing
instructor Miroslav Singer, Mirogoj
is the last resting place of many
eminent Croats, their beautifully
sculpted grave memorials giving
the whole place the appearance
of a park-like outdoor art
gallery. Mirogoj accommodates
people of all religions, which
is why Catholic, Orthodox and
Muslim symbols can be seen
on many of the gravestones.
Herman Boll,
architect and
town planner
(1845 1926). The
German-born
architect came to
Zagreb in 1876 to
restore St. Marks
Church in the Upper
Town. He then
stayed on in Zagreb,
becoming the
leading figure in the
renovation projects
that followed
the catastrophic
earthquake of
1880. Among his
most important
achievements are
the reconstruction
of Zagrebs
cathedral (whose
Neo-Gothic
spires are said
to be inspired by
those in Bolls
birthplace of
Cologne), the
Neo-Renaissance
walls of Mirogoj
cemetery, and
the Museum of
Arts and Crafts.
Maksimir Park
Main attraction in the eastern
part of the city is Maksimir Park, a
leafy oasis of greenery first opened
as a public promenade by Bishop
Maksimilijan Vrhovac in 1794. It
was Vrhovac who arranged for the
existing oak woods and meadows
to be transformed into gardens
in the French style. The resulting
park was named Maksimir (mir
being Croatian for peace) in
honour of its founder. Occupying
one corner of the park, Zagreb Zoo
has grown considerably since the
early 20
th
century, when it opened
to the public with a modest
collection of three foxes and
three owls. Today it is home to
275 animal species, and occupies
a 7-hectare area of beautifully
laid-out flowerbeds and shrubs.
Medvednica
Zagreb is one of the few cities
lucky enough to have a mountain
right on its doorstep. Protected
as a nature reserve, Mount
Medvednica shelters Zagreb
from cold northern winds. The
mountain gets its name from the
bears (medvjedi) who used to
roam its wooded slopes, although
none of the beasts remain on the
mountain today. The 1,035-metre
summit of Medvednica, known as
Sljeme, is a popular destination
for local hikers. Trails lead from
Zagrebs suburbs right to the
top, where mountain lodges
serve hearty portions of grah
(traditional bean stew) to those
eager to restore their strength.
The ski pistes on the northern
slopes of Sljeme regularly host
World Cup skiing events, with
both mens and womens downhill
events taking place in January.
Step by step 77
Publisher:
Zagreb Tourist Board
For Publisher:
Amelia Tomaevi, PhD
Editor:
Draen Hochecker
Text concept:
Martina Petrinovi
Translation:
Media translations
Proofreader:
Jonathan Bousfield
Photos:
elimir Horvat
Juraj Kopa
eljko Kradinac
Patrik Macek
Ivo Pervan
Tomislav Rasti
Tomislav klopan
Ivor Vodanovi
Goran Vrani
AMZ Archive
HAZU Archive
TZGZ Archive
MGZ Phototeque
Art director:
Ivan Doroghy
Design & Layout:
DZN Studio
Print:
Birotisak
ISBN 978-953-228-023-4
Zagreb Tourist Board
10000 Zagreb
Kaptol 5
www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr
info@zagreb-touristinfo.hr
78 Step by step