Fixing angle beads

Before plastering can commence, all external angles, and window reveals will require corner bead fixing, this will give the corner strength, and provide a true point for plaster to be finished to

Before you start to fix your bead , first check the angle for plumb, this will give you some idea of the size of plaster daub required

Fixing angle beads on external corners The tools required for fixing bead, are Tape measure for measuring the size of bead required Tin snips to cut the bead to size Straight edge ,and a spirit level

First measure the size of bead required, then cut the bead to size.

Mix some Bonding plaster and apply at least four daubs down the length of the bead

Sit the bead on the plaster daubs and gently tap into place Plaster daubs Using a straight edge and a spirit level check the bead for straight and plumb Plaster thickness Once the bead is set at plumb remove any excess daub from around the webbing of the bead. Leave the plaster to set and the bead will then be secure and the plasterwork can commence

The plaster daubs can be applied with either the plastering trowel , or the gauging trowel

Plain Face Render

Plain faced render is best when it is applied in two coats

If applying directly to existing brickwork /blockwork / render surface, the substrate must be brushed down to remove any friable material, algae or lichen and fungicidal wash should then be applied

Stabilising solution may be applied if required to help improve adhesion and offer uniform suction.

Plain Face Render fitting the beads

All beads and trims need fixing prior to the application of the scratch coat

Bell cast Beads

Application: At or above DPC level and window heads to allow rainwater to drip clear of the underlying substrate. Fix with stainless steel screws and check for level

Fixing plasterboard to studded partitions

When fixing plasterboard make sure that the end of the plasterboard always finished halfway on a timber studd or ceiling joist

Nails every 150mm, all secured into timber studds or noggins'

End of the plasterboard is not secured into a timber studd, not enough nails , and some nails not into timbers

Fixing plasterboard to studded partitions

The plaster boards have to be fixed across the timber studding's , and staggered to give the wall strength and prevent cracking in straight lines

Nails every 150mm, all secured into timber studds or noggins'

Service holes are cut using a pad saw

Fixing plasterboard to studded partitions

Put fibre tape across all the plasterboard joint , to prevent cracking, it is important not to overlap the tape

Fix thin coat plasterboard beads to all external angles

Mixing Plaster (finishing plaster)

All plasters should be mixed with cold clean water, dirty water or hot water will alter the setting time, causing the plaster to set to fast

Finishing is best mixed with a whisk, to ensure a smooth creamy consistency

The water is added first to the mixing bucket gradually adding the plaster until the correct amount of plaster is added to mix to a creamy consistency

When mixing finishing plaster, it is very important to scrape around the edge of the bucket with a bucket trowel to remove any plaster that has not been mixed, and add it to the mix , then continue to whisk

Once the plaster is mixed is then poured onto the spot board , and the bucket and mixing whisk cleaned off

Using the Trowel the plaster is pulled onto the hawk, the hawk must be held just under the spot boards

The Scratch Coat

Prior to the scratch coat a dubbing out coat may be required to fill out large hallows

The scratch coat is normally applied onto random stone walls, and it should be a mixture of 4 parts clean sand and 1 part ordinary Portland cement. Also it should contain a plasticizer or an integral water proofer. It is keyed with a wire scratcher for the next coat

Plaster can be applied in a series of different coats, and mechanically keys between each coat (mechanical key is a method of binding two surfaces together)