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Self watering recycled plant pot for growing herbs and
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Published: Mar 17, 2008
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make a self-watering planter
using recycled materials on
the cheap
by calskin
SELF WATERING ORGANIC
PLANTER
by kmd7
Quick and easy self-
watering garden planters
by aperkins01096
Slow soaking hanging soda
bottle planter
by AubreeMarie
Go Green Upside Down
Hanging Planters
by DebH57
Inspired by bbullet's Self-watering recycled vase instructable, this is the method that I have been using to
make dozens of self-watering recycled planters. Thanks, bbullet!
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Page 1of 14 Self watering recycled plant pot for growing herbs and flowers
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The way that I am making these uses 2 or 3 liter soda bottles and it supplies the soil with just the right
amount of moisture for the plants to grow. It's a little different than bbullet's way, but it's still made with
recycled bottles and produces fantastic results all for the cost of a pinch of seeds!
Step 1 Materials
You will need to gather these materials:

One 2 or 3 liter soda bottle with the cap
A piece of newspaper, a piece of plastic from a bag or a piece of aluminum foil
Cotton string
scissors or knife to cut the bottle
a drill (or something similar) for making holes in the cap
tape (optional)
*paper or some other decorative cover to keep the light out
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Step 2 The cap
To begin, I drilled holes in the cap for drainage and to accept the cotton string that will act as a wick to
draw the water up into the soil.

I drilled one large hole in the center of the cap and eight smaller holes around it. The large hole is what
will hold the string and the smaller holes will allow water to drain out.
Step 3 The wick
I am using cotton string to act as a wick to draw water up into the soil. As the soil dries and the roots
absorb moisture, the wick will bring water back up into the soil from the reservoir below and feed the
plants.

I cut three equal lengths of string (about 15 inches long) and tied them together with a simple knot about
3 inches up from the bottom.

Into the cap, I fed the three short lengths of cotton string through the big hole in the middle of the bottle
cap and pulled them through so the knot rests on the hole on the inside of the cap. The short ends will
dangle in the water, and the long ends will go up into the soil to feed the roots.
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Step 4 Cutting the bottle
I used a marker to draw a line on the soda bottle to use as a guide when I cut it with scissors. The two
parts that I was left with are the cup and the reservoir.

When the cup is inverted (with the neck down) and put inside the bottle, it should not touch the bottom.
There should be about 2 inches of clearance so that the wick can dangle in the water but the cap cannot
touch it.
Step 5 The cup
The cup is what the soil goes into and where the plants grow.

Roots do better in darkness than in light, so they need to be blocked from sunlight.

To do this, I've tried three different materials. I have used a piece of black plastic from a garbage bag,
aluminum foil and newspaper. I have found that newspaper seems to work best since it is biodegradable
and helps to retain moisture. It is also easy to remove from the cup for transplanting. Best of all, it's the
cheapest of the three since used newspaper can easily be obtained for no cost at all.

I put the light-blocking material all the way into the cup, trying to flatten it against the sides of the cup to
increase the amount of soil that I can fit in later. Once it was in there nicely, I poked a hole in the bottom
for the wick.
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Step 6 The cup cont'd
I fed the cotton wick through the hole that I poked in the cup and screwed the cap on.

The cup is now ready for soil.
Step 7 Soil
Depending on each particular plant's moisture needs, I mixed up the appropriate soil with perlite,
vermiculite or peat moss and was ready to add it to the cup.

I held the wick up into the middle of the cup and began putting the soil in. Having the wick run up in the
middle of the soil helps it to absorb water more quickly and allows the roots to get to it much faster than if
the three strands were separated and on the sides.

After adding a little bit of soil, I separated one string and made a coil in the dirt. I put a little more soil on
and made a second coil. I put on a little more and made the third coil and then filled it up the rest of the
way. I believe that the coils help to spread out the moisture better than just having them going all the way
up the middle.
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Step 8 Water
After all the soil was in the cup, I trimmed off the rest of the newspaper and thoroughly soaked the soil
with water. Depending on the plants needs, you may not be able to use regular tap water, and since I
have a rainwater collector that is what I use the most.

So, I soaked the soil thoroughly and let it drain for an hour. I also made sure that the bottom part of the
wick was wet as well, since this will help it absorb better. Placing a dry wick into the reservoir will cause it
to float and not absorb as well.

Take care to let the cup drain completely. Drips of dirty water into the clean reservoir water may cause
algae to grow. The water should only need to go up, not back down into the clean water.
Step 9 The reservoir
The reservoir is just the bottom of the bottle and is used to store water.

I put some water into it and placed the cup inside. There should be enough water for the wick to dangle
into, but not so much that it touches the cap. I have found that too much water will encourage algae to
grow since little pieces of dirt that fall through the hole in the newspaper contaminate the clean water.
This isn't beneficial, because this design is meant to constantly feed the plant clean water and algae will
make it harder for water to reach the soil.

Since the cup pressed down into the reservoir creates a vacuum, it makes the removal of the cup a little
tough. To solve this, I drilled a tiny hole on the side of the reservoir to let air in. Now the cup can be
removed easily for watering, transplanting or harvesting.
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Step 10 Planting the seeds
Now that the planter is finished, it is time to plant seeds. The planter is useful for growing small plants
such as herbs and flowers or as a starter for larger plants that will have to be transplanted later. Make
sure to provide the plants with the proper amount of sunlight that they need to grow.

The wick delivers clean water from the reservoir up into the soil and to the roots. This is quite useful,
since the plants can be left unattended for periods of time because the soil waters itself. Basically, they
can be left alone and grow with little care from the gardener. Using a two liter bottle, two inches of water
keeps the soil moist for nearly two weeks or more. I have been pleasantly surprised with how well this
works.

About once every few weeks, I remove the cup, water the soil, rinse off the wick and allow it to drain. This
helps to wash out any buildup of minerals in the soil and completely rehydrates everything. Take care to
let it drain completely so as not to contaminate the new fresh water in the reservoir.

Then, the cup goes back into the reservoir and I can walk away from it for another couple of weeks.
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Step 11 Optional step: creating a mini greenhouse lid
This step is optional, but the planter can be made into a mini greenhouse or terrarium with a second
bottle. This is useful for plants that require a high humidity to grow.

I used another soda bottle and cut the bottom off. The place where I made my cut is right below where it
begins to curve. Cutting it above this will prevent the new greenhouse lid from fitting in easily and snug.
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So, look at the bottle, observe where it begins to curve and cut a little below it.

The greenhouse lid will now fit into the cup easily and will trap the humidity. It will not be uncommon to
see water beading up on the sides and dripping down into the soil. I have not had any problems with the
water leaking back down through the soil and into the reservoir. I think that is because the wick will only
absorb as much water as the soil needs to fill the deficit of water created by the absorption from the roots.
Step 12 Other optional steps
Now that my planters have been in service for awhile, I have noticed a few additional problems and have
come up with some easy solutions.

First is the algae growth inside the reservoir. Since algae is a plant and plants need the sun to survive,
the easiest way to prevent the algae from growing is to wrap the finished bottle with a piece of
construction paper or something similar. This blocks the light from penetrating, plus it can be decorated.

And, after prolonged use of these bottles, I have noticed that sometimes the wick will wear out and fall off.
It makes sense because cotton is made from plants and plants will decompose. This usually takes a
while, however. What I've noticed is that by the time the wick rots off, there are already roots growing
down where the cap is. This was easy, since I just removed the cap and let the roots grow down into the
water. After all, who needs a wick when you have roots?
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1
J un 7, 2008. 4:44 PM
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96 comments Add Comment
1-40 of 96 next
Tidnull says:
I don't the print would be a problem but the newspaper seems like it would work like a peat pot. Water
a peat pot and within 24 hours the pot itself has soaked up all of the moisture, leaving the roots to dry
out. To me, the black trash bag would be the best choice, as it does not soak up moisture and does
not run the risk of letting light in.
KittyF says:
the trouble with a black trash bag is if the sun comes in the window it can overheat the soil and the
plant roots. it's possible it could kill the roots, and the heated soil might dry out sooner as well.
FWIW
tvandang says:
perhaps i did not read this article clearly but do we put water in the soil or in the reservoir so that the
the soil will suck up the the water from the reservoir via the strings? i am not so clear about this. so
when we plant the herbs do we fill the reservoir or water the soil? sorry if the questions are idiotic.
thanks!
iPodGuy (author) says:
Step 13 Summary
These planters are simple to make and are made with recycled products that would normally be
discarded. They can be decorated and given as gifts, made by children as projects or just left on a
windowsill to grow fresh herbs or flowers.

The soil really does seem to stay moist longer than it does in a conventional flowerpot with regular
watering. My favorite part is that the plants will grow with very little help or attention from me.

The fact that all the parts used (the bottle, the newspaper, the compost, rainwater) are all recycled or free
and can be recycled again is what I like a lot. The planter can be used several times and can simply be
tossed into a plastic recycling bin when finished.

I've made dozens of these and what I like the best is that I can grow miniature crops of herbs and flowers
for literally the cost of the seeds and with little effort on my part.

Thanks again to bbullet and his instructable which originally inspired me on the basic design.

Have fun and happy gardening!
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13
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May 5, 2010. 4:38 PM
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13
Dec 8, 2010. 8:37 AM
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Oct 15, 2010. 3:27 AM
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J ul 16, 2010. 10:30 AM
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J un 1, 2010. 9:10 PM
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May 22, 2010. 5:53 AM
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6
May 2, 2010. 11:35 PM
You want to have water in the reservoir at all times. When you put soil in the cup, wet it also. As the
water evaporates from the soil, it draws more water up the strings - kind of like priming a pump. Re-
moisten the soil periodically.
LittleWolf says:
Great instructable! I really like recycling, but only as long as they serve a purpose. Would it affect it
on any way if the whole container was permanently decorated?
iPodGuy (author) says:
Nope. I once made construction paper sleeves to go over the outside of the pots. You might not be
able to see your water levels, though.
pravs2k says:

I first tried out with pebbles at the bottom.then graduated to two piece ones.Now I make two piece
ones but with decoupage covering the whole bottle Cant pull out the top part to see how much water
there is left. to overcome this problem I have left the flat part of the bottle clear and drilled a hole
about two inches from the bottom for the excess water to flow out . The bottles are all placed in a
basin of water for a while and once they are full ,they are taken out and left out for the excess water
to drain out. I used fabric and jute and also paper napkins to decoupage the bottles. Also mat and
bamboo screens.Plan to grow lettuce and herbs, but at the moment I have all sorts of plants.J ust one
had a problem- the roots found their way into the reservoir because I had drilled an extra hole in the
lid for water to drain into the the bottom part .Couple of plants wilted a bit -the soil was dry.Dont know
what happened.
geekcore says:
Recycling, yay!

I just made four of these today after having some trouble with my oregano and thyme washing away
when I try to water from the top and not staying moist enough in general.

I left the newspaper out, though.


Goodhart says:
This would be great for seeds like coriander, too.
sail4free says:
You can view my sub-irrigated instructable here:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-Your-Own-Growing-Containers/

Using the Google search feature with "sub-irrigated", my instructable was #3 . . . I think yours was #1!
My thinking has evolved towards using a five gallon bucket for larger plants, but you could do the
same thing on your smaller scale by removing the tapered neck of the clear bottle. Drill a small
overflow hole at the desired maximum water height and fill with pea gravel to 1/2" above the overflow
hole. This guarantees a crucial air gap between the potting mix and the water reservoir, so over-
watering is impossible. Then a piece of Dupont's 15-year landscape fabric is used to keep roots from
drowning in the reservoir. Then the bottle is filled with planting mix and is ready to plant. It's important
to fully saturate the mix as you go -- any excess drains out the overflow. The bottle should be painted
or shaded with a decorative cyclinder. I have ideas for auto-watering too so the water level remains
constant. I hope to detail all this in my 2nd Instructable SOON but haven't put it together yet.
KhiemTran says:
Genius!
junkk29 says:
Thank you so much for posting this instructable, now I have a new home for my Oregano and
Rosemary plants :)
timbit1985 says:
Contrary to popular belief, plant roots do just fine in sunlight :) The reason that 99% of pots are
opaque is because it helps nurseries control algal growth in their soil. I have over 20 plants in
transparent pots, with various exposures to sunlight. All of them are thriving.

Cheers,

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Tim

treehuggingwolf says:
This is really cool! It addresses the problem that recycling plastic isn't very profitable. This way your
local recycling center doesn't loose money sorting it, and it still stays out the landfills. Bravo, sir!
You've also solved a problem for me. I've been using the bottom parts to catch excess water but a
plastic cup for the pot. This way one bottle will make a complete pot.
Chewie42 says:
Did you try a coffee filter?
archerj says:
This is a good idea, well thought out and presented--also some good suggestion and comments from
others. Good luck with your big project!

There are some serious environmental questions about the use of peat moss: look at the whole
picture on Wikipedia. It's a question of choice, but you it's always a good idea to look at both sides of
the picture.

Personally, if there's a rational argument regarding environmental issues, I try to find an alternative.
Maybe a compost bin and making your own homemade "peat."
dwream says:
Very clever. Thanks. A suggestion: because algae can be a problem in the reservoir, it is helpful to
wrap the entire container in newspaper or foil to exclude light. It also reduces light, and improves
appearance, if you can fit the planter into a tall porcelain vase.
iPodGuy (author) says:
That's part of the plan with the new hydroponic and aquaponic ones that I've been working on.
Good suggestion.
bqbowden says:
(removed by author or community request)
iPodGuy (author) says:
Yeah, I'll post it when the work is completed. I've got a working hydroponic system that has
germinated tomato seeds. Once the tomato plants have grown enough to prove my concept, I'm
going to publish an instructable and begin work with the aquaponic system. Thanks for your
interest!
dungeon001 says:
New to gardening and don't know much about growing anything so maybe this has some
problems I don't see. But in areas prone to moss/algae growth on roof tops copper and/or zinc
bars are effectively used to kill it. They attach near the peak of the roof and when rain washes
over them it carries enough with it to kill the algae. If the hydro/aqua system were to circulate
through copper pipes (perhaps via an aquarium pump) that might be adequate to stop or slow
down algae growth. Or perhaps it could be circulated over a small piece of one of these bars.
Don't know how well or if it will work at all. J ust an idea I had while reading the comments
here.
Mr. E Meat says:
I'm not sure of the toxicity of copper on the plants(or the levels that might leach off of the
pipes) but I know that increased copper levels will harm invertebrates (like shrimp)... Also, I
think you want to avoid mixing metal types in plumbing ot avoid excessive corrosion.
iPodGuy (author) says:
The instructable so nice it was featured twice!

Cool!
robinmaille says:
Excellent. Clear, concise, complete. Ideal instruction on the how and why. There are some young
children I will introduce to in-home planting with this idea. Thank you. Can you add water to the
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reservoir via that air hole you make if your watering 'can' had a fine enough nozzle? Say, water pistol
size?
iPodGuy (author) says:
Sure you could.
timbit1985 says:
Hey,

Did you know that it is actually a common misconception regarding roots and darkness? The reason
99% of plant pots are opaque is due to commercial growers preferences. Plant pots are opaque to
limit the amount of algal growth that is possible. In a home environment, algae is not likely to bloom in
your soil. I have over 20 super healthy plants, all of which are planted in transparent pots. Having a
transparent Sub Irrigated Pot is actually very handy, as you can see where the water level is, which
allows you to KNOW when to rewater, as opposed to simply guessing.

Great instructable!
Tim
gizmogrl says:
All I have to say is I am stoked to to try this. Imagine all the applications: genius!
micorneus says:
Great post, but may I suggest:

1. Use 2 ply acrylic yarn for the wick, it wont break down as fast as natural fibers. Cost - $2-3 for
about 40-50 yards.

2. Place a copper penny in the reservoir to deter algae growth.
stormys says:
What kind of soil do you use for plant your Venus Fly Trap?
iPodGuy (author) says:
Straight peat moss. Nothing else.
stormys says:
Thanks for the tip, your Fly trap looks healthy. :D
aleeoop says:
Does anyone know if BPA can leech into soil and then plants from plastic containers? I know this
sounds paranoid, but it worries me sometimes.
iPodGuy (author) says:
Probably. It's persistent stuff.
Kira53 says:
This is a fantastic instructable. It was very clear. I made a different type of self watering planter with
plastic milk cartons and I think this will work better. I especially like the idea of the newspaper "cup".
That will make transplanting less traumatic for the plant. Thanks.
tphilp74 says:
OMG!!! I'm so doing this tonight. I have some mesclun, cilantro and other herbs I was about to start in
J iffy pots, but hell... this is way awesome.
greenpeace says:
Great****This saves time and gas. I will keep my recycled bin at home and make my own treasures.
Thanks. This made my day +++++++
iPodGuy (author) says:
Cool. I'm glad you like it.
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Feb 8, 2009. 8:12 PM
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Tidnull says:
i have been using this model since august for marshmallow, spearmint, and chamomile and i just
transplanted them outside. the plants all grew in a window to a few inches and they are doing fine in
the garden now.
RunningSneaks says:
Whoa! This is awesome! Really, what a great thing for someone like me who forgets to water plants
but loves to cook with fresh herbs! It would make a great gift too! Or a project for a workshop!
assimalmaiha says:
thank for every body
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