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Fabric cutting is the most important part of garment industry. Cutting different parts of garment apparel
very carefully according to shape of pattern is called fabric cutting. Consistent fabric cutting
is very important for perfect garments making.
Requirement of Cutting
Precision of cut- To ensure the cutting of fabric aquirtly according to the line drown of
the marker plan. Clean edge- By avoiding the fraing out of yarn from the fabric edge. Cutting
edge must be smooth clean. Knife must be sharp for smooth or clean edge. Consistency in
cutting- All the sizing safe of the cutting parts should be same of knife should be operated of
the right angle of the fabric lay.
Methods of fabric Cutting
There are mainly three methods of cutting are as follows:
1. Fully manual: Hand operated scissor
2. Semi-Automatic Cutting Machine of fabric cutting:
Straight knife Cutting Machine.
Round Knife Cutting Machine.
Band Knife Cutting Machine.
Die Cutting Machine.
Notcher Machine.
Drill Machine.
3. Computerized methods of fabric cutting:
Laser Cutting Machine.
Water Jet Cutting Machine.
Ultrasonic Cutting Machine.
Plasma cutting Machine
Fully manual
Hand operated scissor
Hand shears are normally used when cutting only single or double plies. The lower blade of the shears
passes under the plies, but the subsequent distortion of the fabric is only temporary and accurate
cutting to the line can be achieved with practice.
Advantage of hand scissor
Almost every type of cloth are cut by scissor. Scissors are mainly used for cutting single ply fabric.
Disadvantage of hand scissor
It takes huge time for fabric cutting. It is impossible to cut the fabric lay of any height
Semi-Automatic Cutting Machine of fabric cutting
1) Straight Knife Cutting Machine
The most useful cutting machine in garments industry is the straight knife cutting machine.
Machine parts and their functions:
a) Blade:
Blade cuts the fabric laterally into a spread.
b) Sharpening device:
Sharpening device produces degree of keenness in the cutting edge.
c) Blade drive:
Cutting blade is reciprocated vertically in the blade housing by the blade drive.
It is driven by the motors drive.
d) Blade housing :
It is anchored in the base plate. It supports the motor, operating handle and sharpeners.
e) Blade guard:
It is a safety device attached indirectly to the blade housing.
It has two functions
- safety and cutting quality. It prevents the cutter from accidentally cutting his positioning hand on top
of the spread.
f) Base plate:
The foundation that supports and helps balance the cutting mechanism. It guides the knife in relation
to the table surface and elevates the spread off the cutting table for contact with the blade.
g) Handle:
It moves the cutting machine or the cutter over the lines or area to be cut.
h) Power system:
It provides power to the drives for the motor drive to move blade drive which drives the blade.
Advantage of straight knife machine:
The knife is comparatively cheap & can be transferred from one place to another easily. Lay of higher height can
be cut very easily. Suitable for large production rate as it is convenient to cut the lay of 10 inches height. Fabric
can be cut from any angle.
Disadvantage of straight knife
Sometimes deflecting may occur due to the weight of the motor. Chance of accident is high.
Blade deflection occurs so quality may be hampered. Skill hand required.
2) Round Knife Cutting Machine
Round knife is mostly use for cutting the big parts of the garments pattern.
Advantage of round knife
Round knife is widely used to separate the big parts and separate the blocks of fabric from relatively
small height fabric ray.
Disadvantage of round knife
Not suitable for cutting very curved lines in higher number of lays as the blade does not strike
all the piles simultaneously at the same point.
Round knife is used only for straight line & lower number of piles.