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Threads
staff
seamstress
shares
her
technique
BY NOR MA B UC KO
40 THREADS
T156_BU.indd 40 6/2/11 2:34 PM
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I
nvisible zippers are the sweethearts of all garment
sewers, and they deserve the perfect fnish at the
neckline, too. After a good many years of altering
ready-to-wear garments professionally, Ive settled on a
method for installing an invisible zipper and fnishing the
garment at the zippers top edge.
My method minimizes bulk at the top edge and gives a
clean fnish on the wrong and right sides. It couldnt
be easier because there is no hand sewing with this
methodit can all be done with your machine. Once
youve mastered this technique, youll never want to use
traditional zippers again.
Norma Bucko is Treads staf seamstress.
Put your best foot forward
To sew the best invisible zipper possible, you need the right foot on your machine.
Use the invisible zipper foot made specifically for your
sewing machine. This foot is generally available through your
local dealer. Avoid using generic plastic invisible zipper feet,
as they are not stable enough to produce good results.
You also need the standard zipper foot and your
regular multipurpose sewing foot. Use these
to close the seam below the zipper and to
attach the lining to the garment.
If an invisible zipper foot
is unavailable, you can use a
standard zipper foot. Before
sewing, open the zipper and
press the coils flat and away
from the tape. Stitch close
to the coils, but do not sew
on top of them, as this
hinders the zipper from
closing smoothly.
INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT
STANDARD ZIPPER FOOT
MULTIPURPOSE FOOT
The invisible zipper foot has
two grooves for the zipper
coils to glide through.
Using a standard
zipper foot, sew
close to the invis-
ible zipper coils.
From the zippers wrong side, press
the coils flat.
Zipper coil
WS
RS
AUGUST/ SEPTEMBER 201 1 41 www. t hr eadsmagazi ne. com
T156_BU.indd 41 6/2/11 2:34 PM
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Apply the zipper
Now you see itnow you dont. Follow these steps to sew a truly invisible zipper. Then
follow the instructions on the next page to finish the top edge.
1
Sew the seam
that the zipper
will occupy. Sew
from the hem
to 2 or 3 inches
from the zipper
position.
2
Lay the open
zipper over the
seam allowance
with right sides
together. With top
edges aligned, place
the zipper teeth
along the seamline.
The
5
8-inch-wide
seam allowance
will extend about
1
4 inch beyond the
zipper tape.
WS
RS
3
Use the invisible
zipper foot to
sew the zipper to
the garment. Sew
from top to bottom.
As you stitch, the
zipper coils fit into
the foots groove, so
the stitching can stay
close to the coil. To
facilitate this, gently
roll the coils away
while sewing. Repeat
on the opposite side.
If you have a waistline
seam, go to step 4
first.
Sew with
the coils in
the foots
groove.
Position the
garment and
zipper right
sides together,
with the teeth
along the
seamline.
4
Match seamlines before sewing the second side. If you need to
match a seamline, such as a waistline seam, baste the second side
1 inch above and below the intersecting seam. Then close the zipper to
check that the seam matches. If it does not, there is only a short portion
to unsew. When it matches, finish step 3 to sew the zipper in place.
WS
WS
RS
Basting
Waist seam
Mark the
lower zipper stop
location.
Stitch from the
hem to 2 inches
from the zipper
stop.
5
Close the zipper. With
the standard zipper
foot, sew the open seam
section below the zipper.
Hold the zipper tape
away from the foot while
you sew close to the
zipper. Open and close
the zipper a few times to
be sure there are no spots
that catch.
Hold the zipper tape
out of the way.
Close the opening
with a standard
zipper foot.
ZIPPER
RESOURCES
AtlantaThread.com
Ghees.com
TheZipperLady.com
ZipperConnection.com
ZipperStop.com
RS
WS
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Finish by understitching
the neckline.
Understitching
WHEN THERES A FACING
Facing pieces may be a bit smaller than a lining, but the sewing process is
the same. Simply follow the instructions above for the lining, and substitute
facing for lining for a beautifully finished neckline edge. Remember to
first install the invisible zipper, and then add the facing.
Get a bulk-free finish
For professional results, install the zipper, and then follow the machine-sewn process below. The
lining is sewn to the zipper seam before the seam that crosses the zippers top edge is finished.
These instructions describe the neckline seam, but they also can apply to a waistline seam.
1
Assemble the lining.
For the zipper seam,
sew the lining from the
hem to where it meets
the zipper.
2
With a standard
zipper foot, sew the
lining to the zipper.
Extend the lining seam
allowance
1
4 inch beyond
the garment seam edge.
Stitch with a
5
8-inch
seam allowance from
the lining edge. The
seamline is placed
1
4 inch
from the teeth so they
wont catch the lining.
Stitch the garment and
lining together with
the lining extending
1
4
inch beyond the seam
allowance.
The
1
4 inch
distance keeps
the lining from
catching in the
zipper teeth.
1
4 inch
3
Turn the lining
and garment right
sides together with the
zipper teeth exactly
at the fold. Sew the
neckline seam.
Turn the garment
and lining right sides
together, with the zip-
per teeth inside along
the fold.
Zipper
teeth
hidden
inside
the fold
4
Trim, clip, and
understitch around
the neckline. Carefully
press all the seams.
WS
RS
RS
Smooth and clean,
this bulk-free method
gives your garments
a professional finish
inside and out.
When sewn, the necklines top
edge is smooth and the zipper
teeth are exactly at CB.
AUGUST/ SEPTEMBER 201 1 43
www. t hr eadsmagazi ne. com
T156_BU.indd 43 6/3/11 5:05 PM