Making Split Turnings

Turning identical halves is not twice the work!

Text & photos by Tom Hintz

Posted – 9-22-2006

One of the more intriguing capabilities of the lathe is making half or “split”
turnings that are most often used as decorative features on other projects. Split
turnings can be stand-alone projects such as wall sconces, brackets o whatever
you can imagine. Though seemingly a simple idea, the problem is ending up with
identical pieces, specifically in depth. Though many have tried using jigs and
techniques of all descriptions, successfully creating identical thickness pieces has
been as much luck as skill. Usually after slicing a turning into two pieces, lots of
work remains to be done to the cut edge to make them even reasonably identical.

The split turning in this story was turned entirely on my Jet Mini Lathe but virtually
any lathe will work. In many cases, split turnings are small and I find the overall
size of the Jet Mini Lathe to be more comfortable for the job.

There is a better way and it involves your morning

newspaper.

Making the Blank

If we want to end up with two pieces, it makes sense
to start with two pieces. The trick is gluing them
together in a way that allows turning them safely and
still be able to separate them later – and get two
identical pieces.

To make the blank we need either one solid piece

that is a little larger than needed or two (or more)
pieces that can be glued up to produce the size
needed. The idea is to end up with two laves that are
Starting with one piece and reasonably close to equal in thickness. As you will
cutting it in half (top) is my see later in this story, matching the thickness at this
favorite when that option is point is less important than having a flat glue surface.
available.
If the pieces are large First, we need two halves of the blank that are
enough, a light pass or two roughly the same thickness, each with a truly flat
over the jointer (bottom) surface that can be used for joining them. Remember
insures a flat glue surface. that the combined dimensions of the halves after
Click image to enlarge rounding have to yield a blank of sufficient size for
the project in mind. When in doubt, make the blank a little bigger just to be sure.

When beginning with multiple pieces, start by gluing up halves and allowing the
glue to set up. If an odd number of pieces is closest to the diameter needed, I
add another layer to get two equal thickness halves and then turn the blank down
to size when rounding. Another option (my favorite when possible) is to start with
a single piece that is a bit larger than needed and
saw it in half as close to center as possible.

Next, flatten the glue surfaces. If the pieces are large

enough, a jointer is the best tool but sanding or hand
planning them flat may be the only option. Take your
time and get the surface flat so they match each
other well. Taking the time to make truly flat surfaces
now not only insures a good glue bond but also
provides nearly perfect rear surface when split apart
that makes preparation for mounting far less labor
intensive.

The Newspaper
Cut a single layer of common newspaper that is the
Putting a single layer of
slightly larger than the gluing surface of the blanks.
common newspaper
Apply an even coat of plain yellow glue (Titebond for
between the glue-coated
instance) to both of the gluing surfaces but not the
halves (top) is the key to
newspaper. Lay the newspaper in the glue on one of
getting them apart later
the pieces and align it. Carefully add the second half
without damage.
of the blank over the newspaper and clamp.
Clamping can be a little
difficult. (bottom) Adding a
I have found that adding the newspaper makes the
clamp at each end across
pieces especially prone to slipping while the glue
the glue line helps keep
sets up. Adding a clamp on the ends at the glue line
everything aligned until he
helps keep the pieces aligned while the glue sets up.
glue sets up.
Click images to enlarge
As with any glue up, use only enough pressure to
close the joint. Too much pressure can squeeze
enough of the glue out of the joint to weaken the bond. When satisfied with the
clamping, set the assembly aside to dry thoroughly. Rushing this step could result
in turning into the middle of the glue up where the glue has not yet fully dried.
That could result in the halves flying apart on the lathe. Take your time and be
safe!

When the blank has dried, trim the ends square and flat if necessary.
The Center Point
To end up with identically sized half turnings,
measure across the glue line and mark the center.
We disregard the thickness when punching the
center point because during rounding, the halves will
automatically become equal if the center point is on
the glue line. Using an awl, make a small punch
mark at the center point of the glue line. Repeat the
Make the centerpunch at process on the other end and use these holes for
the middle of the glue line. locating the drive spur and live center when
We don't care about the mounting on the lathe.
width now as that will be
automatically corrected
when the piece is rounded.
Capture Plate
Click image to enlarge Note: I use my (Oneway Talon) chuck to secure one
end of split turnings and recommend you do so as
well. The clamping force generated by the jaws provides a large safety margin,
insuring that the glued up blank stays together during turning. If you do not have
a chuck and do not take this opportunity to “need” one, making a second
“capture” plate, like the one described below for the
tailstock end can be used for the drive center end as
well. Adding a piece of double-sided tape to the
interior of the capture plate recess will help prevent
the blank from spinning independently during
turning. While less effective than a chuck, the
capture plate it is better than using the drive center
alone.

To secure the tailstock end of the glued up blank, a

simple “capture” plate is made that effectively traps a
tenon turned on the blank. The capture plate also Making the capture plate is
allows turning the piece close to the tailstock end to easy. Just be sure to size the
maximize the size of the project that can be obtained tenon correctly to fit it!
from that blank. Click image to enlarge

Ideally, the tenon on the tailstock end will be between 1 ½” and 2”-diameter,
based on what size Forstner bits you have. That provides sufficient “meat” at the
ends of the blank halves to secure them during turning while maximizing access
to that end of the blank.

Cut a square of hardwood at least ¾”-thick and 2” larger than the tenon size
determined earlier. Find the center of the plate and drill a 1/16” or 1/8”-diameter
pilot hole completely through it. Change to the Forstner bit that matches the
tenon and with the point of that drill in the pilot hole, drill a recess ¼” to 3/8”-deep.
Trimming the corners of the capture plates a little will make them easier to turn
later.

Turning the Tenons

Note: If capture plates are used on both ends of the
blank, make the capture plates and tenons the same
size.

Mount the blank between centers, applying just

enough pressure to secure it. Put two or three
complete, tight wraps of duct tape around the center
of the blank to restrain it while cutting the tenons. It is
not likely that the blank will split apart but it is way
easier to be safe now.

Carefully turn a tenon on the drive center end, sized

to fit your chuck jaws. Set a caliper to the outer
diameter of the Forstner bit used to drill the Capture
plate recess and use that to size the tenon on the
live center end of the blank. The length of the tenon
(Top) Before turning the should be slightly longer than the depth of the recess
tenons, put two full wraps in the capture plate. A good fit (diameter) is important
of good duct tape around so check your progress frequently.
the center to restrain the
halves during that Remove the blank from the lathe and check the fit of
operation. the Capture plate. When satisfied, remove the tape
(Bottom) With the capture from the blank.
plate pressed into place by
the tailstock, there is little Rounding & Turning
chance of the halves
coming apart while turning. Mount the blank in the chuck and lightly close the
Click image to enlarge jaws on the tenon. Place the Capture Plate recess
over the tenon on the tailstock end, insert the point of
the live center into the pilot hole on its back side and snug the live center against
the capture plate. Give the assembly a couple turns by hand to be sure it is
seated before tightening the jaws on the chuck.
As part of the initial rounding process, I also turn the
corners off of the Capture plate if it is as large or
larger than the blank. This is largely a safety issue as
removing the corners both gives you better access
and prevents banging the knuckles. Be careful not to
remove more material than is necessary to round the
Capture plate. Leaving the outer walls as thick as
possible insures its strength.

Check to be sure the tailstock is still pressing firmly

against the Capture plate before rounding the rest of
the blank. You can now turn the shape into the blank.
The only caution is to leave enough material at either
end to prevent compromising the grip of the chuck or
Capture Plate. Finish reducing the ends of the
turning after the major shaping and sanding has
been completed. I try to do as much turning and (top) With the blank
sanding as possible and still leave a 1”-diameter mounted in the lathe,
section at either end of the piece. When possible, I capture plate in place, you
also complete as much finishing as possible before are ready for rounding and
turning the ends down and parting the piece off. turning the piece.
That leaves a small area on either end that needs (bottom) When using a
sanding and finishing to complete it. chuck, we can part off the
tailstock end and finish
When using a good chuck, if the turning is short turning that part without
enough to remain stable, I part off the tailstock end support. Light cuts and a
and carefully finish turning that end. I can also sand steady hand are important.
and finish that end in many cases. Click images to enlarge

The last step is to part the headstock end off on the lathe or saw it off. Sand that
end of the blank before continuing.

Separating the Halves

 The most important thing when separating the halves
is to go slow when starting the split and then working
your way around the piece. I start with a utility knife
to begin working the seam at the newspaper. The
main thing we are trying to avoid is denting or
cracking the edge of the turning by simply driving a
chisel into the seam. After the utility knife I can
usually slip a spackling knife or thin chisel into the
gap and work the halves apart. The paper generally
separates right down the middle producing two flat
surfaces.

Once the halves are separated all that remains is

cleaning up the newspaper-covered surfaces. This
can be done easily by “scrubbing” it on a piece of
sandpaper laid on a flat surface. If the halves are
large enough to control safely, a light pass or two
across the jointer makes short work of this process.

Just how particular you are with removing the

newspaper and glue is up to you and how the piece
is to be mounted. In most cases, this surface is
hidden and presents no finishing problems.

With the halves separated and the back sides flat,

(top) Take your time you can sand any remaining areas and finish as
working a utility knife, then desired and your split turnings are ready to be
a putty knife into the glue installed.
line to separate the halves.
(middle) The newspaper Be safe and have fun!
has torn apart evenly,
leaving very little work to Have a comment on this story? - Email Me!
prepare the halves.
(bottom) Usually, a little Back to the Woodturning Directory
sanding on a flat surface is
all that is required and the
pieces are ready for
installation.
Click images to enlarge