Composite tapa.FH11 Fri Nov 30 16:30:47 2007 Page 2 Composite tapa.FH11 Fri Nov 30 16:30:47 2007 Page 3 Composite ESPAOL En medio del rido desierto de Atacama, a 95 km. al noreste del puerto de Antofagasta, se ubica la ex oficina salitrera de Chacabuco, declarada Monumento Nacional en 1971, por sus notables cualida- des patrimoniales. Construida en 1922 y poseedora de un sistema de produccin de ltima generacin para la poca, lleg a albergar una poblacin que super las 5.000 personas, las que, en conjunto con los dems habitantes de las salitreras que proliferaron en el entorno, dieron origen a la cultura pampina, que tuvo su auge como expresin sin- gular durante la primera mitad del siglo XX. A travs de sus instalaciones podr recorrer la trama urbana de una de las oficinas salitreras mejor conservadas del pas, apreciando los vestigios y signos que estampan todas las facetas de la vida y obra de estos hombres y sus familias, enfrentados al ms rido desierto del mundo. En el marco de su programa Rutas Patrimoniales, el Ministerio de Bienes Nacionales ha editado la presente topogua, que asociada a una sealtica de mnimo impacto, pone en valor este gran conjun- to patrimonial, permitiendo que el visitante obtenga la informacin que requiera para hacer de su recorrido una experiencia satisfacto- ria de conocimiento y recreacin histrica. Adems de la valorizacin pblica que esta iniciativa importa, se con- tribuye a la generacin de un museo de sitio en el lugar, que permi- tir defender este legado cultural para las futuras generaciones. Prxi- mamente, en el marco del programa Grandes Territorios, Nuevas Oportunidades, el Ministerio de Bienes Nacionales ofrecer en concesin a largo plazo la administracin de este bien pblico, en orden a financiar obras de restauracin de las principales instalaciones y otorgar servicios adecuados de atencin al visitante. El programa Rutas Patrimoniales se constituye en un medio de ac- ceso del ciudadano al territorio y a sus diversas culturas locales para su conocimiento y disfrute. Permite contribuir al desarrollo y proyec- cin de las identidades locales en un mundo de creciente globaliza- cin. En tanto bien pblico, contribuye a fomentar el desarrollo y diversificacin de la pequea y mediana empresa a nivel local y regional, potenciando el turismo sustentable; a la vez que ampla y mejora las alternativas de uso del tiempo libre de la poblacin. En sntesis, esta es una nueva invitacin del Ministerio de Bienes Na- cionales a que conozcamos Chile caminando. Jaime Ravinet De la Fuente Jaime Ravinet De la Fuente Jaime Ravinet De la Fuente Jaime Ravinet De la Fuente Jaime Ravinet De la Fuente Ministro de Vivienda, Urbanismo y Bienes Nacionales atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 1 ACERCA DE LA TOPOGUA Esta topogua es un com- plemento al Sistema de Sea- ltica instalado en la Ex Oficina Salitrera Chacabuco y conforma la segunda Ruta Patrimonial pe- destre desarrollada por el Ministe- rio de Bienes Nacionales asocia- da, particularmente, al senderis- mo cultural. Su objetivo es la puesta en valor de este Monumento Histrico, el conocimiento del sistema pro- ductivo del salitre, su vida cotidia- na y su historia reciente. Despus de la descripcin de cmo utilizar esta topogua, usted encontrar informacin estructu- rada en dos partes: la primera, dedicada a la historia de la Ex Oficina Salitrera Chacabuco y, la segunda, relativa a los puntos ms notables de esta Ruta Patrimonial. SISTEMA DE SEALTICA Se ha implementado un sistema de sealtica que incluye un Pla- no General de la Ex Oficina Sali- trera Chacabuco, ms ocho sea- les localizadas en puntos estrat- gicos, las que contienen una bre- ve descripcin del rea en las que se emplazan. Cada seal se indi- vidualiza con un nombre y un nmero correlativo del 1 al 8. INDICACIONES GENERALES Direccin del circuito La Ruta Patrimonial se ha estruc- turado como una visita secuen- ciada, considerando su inicio en el Plano General de la Ex Oficina Salitrera Chacabuco, ubicado en la Plaza. Sin embargo, usted po- dr elegir y plantearse un circui- to propio en funcin de sus moti- vaciones y tiempo disponible. Le aconsejamos realizar recorridos en el interior y no en las afueras del recinto. Para facilitar su visita, el circuito se ha estructurado en base a los puntos cardinales y los nombres histricos de las calles, segn apa- rece en el Plano General, el cual figura en el interior de la portada desplegable de esta topogua. Duracin del circuito El circuito completo tiene una du- racin aproximada de 90 minu- tos. Sugerencia Le recomendamos complemen- tar este circuito con la visita a la exposicin Patrimonio Salitre- Patrimonio Salitre- Patrimonio Salitre- Patrimonio Salitre- Patrimonio Salitre- ro: Memoria del Norte Grande, ro: Memoria del Norte Grande, ro: Memoria del Norte Grande, ro: Memoria del Norte Grande, ro: Memoria del Norte Grande, en exhibicin permanente en el segundo y tercer piso del Teatro de Chacabuco, la cual fue mon- tada e inaugurada por el Ministe- rio de Bienes Nacionales en el mes de mayo de 2001, en el mar- co de la celebracin del Da del Patrimonio Cultural de Chile. Vista parcial de la Exposicin Patrimonio Salitrero: Memoria del Norte Grande, instalada por el Ministerio de Bienes Nacionales, en el Teatro y Biblioteca de Chacabuco. 1927, agosto 14 / FTBOL Y TENIS: En tren nocturno lleg la delegacin de 1927, agosto 14 / FTBOL Y TENIS: En tren nocturno lleg la delegacin de 1927, agosto 14 / FTBOL Y TENIS: En tren nocturno lleg la delegacin de 1927, agosto 14 / FTBOL Y TENIS: En tren nocturno lleg la delegacin de 1927, agosto 14 / FTBOL Y TENIS: En tren nocturno lleg la delegacin de Ftbol Ferrocarril de Antofagasta que jugara con los empleados de sta. En Ftbol Ferrocarril de Antofagasta que jugara con los empleados de sta. En Ftbol Ferrocarril de Antofagasta que jugara con los empleados de sta. En Ftbol Ferrocarril de Antofagasta que jugara con los empleados de sta. En Ftbol Ferrocarril de Antofagasta que jugara con los empleados de sta. En ftbol y tenis vencieron los locales. Asisti gran nmero de personas a presen- ftbol y tenis vencieron los locales. Asisti gran nmero de personas a presen- ftbol y tenis vencieron los locales. Asisti gran nmero de personas a presen- ftbol y tenis vencieron los locales. Asisti gran nmero de personas a presen- ftbol y tenis vencieron los locales. Asisti gran nmero de personas a presen- atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 2 ANTECEDENTES GENERALES La industria del salitre Ex Oficina Salitrera Chacabuco Las Oficinas Salitreras existieron con el fin de producir salitre o ni- trato, abono natural que comen- z a utilizarse masivamente en la agricultura a mediados del siglo XIX, para mejorar los rendimien- tos y calidades de los productos agrcolas. Aunque el conocimien- to de las propiedades del salitre data de pocas precolombinas, durante mucho tiempo se le con- sider slo como materia prima para la fabricacin de plvora. El desarrollo de la industria del salitre es parte fundamental de la historia del Norte Grande de Chile, pues se enmarca en el con- texto de la Guerra del Pacfico o del Salitre, lo que signific un crecimiento no slo en trminos econmicos, sino que tambin territoriales, ya que Chile llegaba en 1879 slo hasta el paralelo 25, a la altura de la localidad de Pa- poso, lo que en la actualidad co- rresponde al lmite sur de la II Regin de Antofagasta. Este crecimiento se tradujo, entre otras cosas, en el desarrollo de la denominada Cultura Pampina, cuyas tradiciones estn vivas y presentes en la actualidad. Esta tiene su origen en los oficios gene- rados por la industria, el lengua- je propio suscitado en las faenas, la vida social y solidaridad de quienes habitaron estas ciudades- factoras. Las Oficinas Salitreras, especial- mente aquellas grandes y moder- nas como Chacabuco (1922) y, posteriormente, Mara Elena (1926), Pedro de Valdivia (1931) y Victoria (1944), contaron con una infraestructura que les permi- ti la independencia y autonoma necesarias para desarrollar la vida en todos sus mbitos, en un me- dio tan adverso como el desr- tico. A partir de 1924 sus trabaja- dores gozaron, adems, de ma- yores garantas en materias labo- Muelle Salitrero del Puerto de Mejillones. Administrador, empleados y obreros de Oficina Bellavista. Comparsa de Oficina Coya, 1913. ciar el encuentro. En la tarde fueron invitados al Club Lautaro donde rein ciar el encuentro. En la tarde fueron invitados al Club Lautaro donde rein ciar el encuentro. En la tarde fueron invitados al Club Lautaro donde rein ciar el encuentro. En la tarde fueron invitados al Club Lautaro donde rein ciar el encuentro. En la tarde fueron invitados al Club Lautaro donde rein orden. orden. orden. orden. orden. CUADERNO DE VIGILANTES OFICINA CHACABUCO CUADERNO DE VIGILANTES OFICINA CHACABUCO CUADERNO DE VIGILANTES OFICINA CHACABUCO CUADERNO DE VIGILANTES OFICINA CHACABUCO CUADERNO DE VIGILANTES OFICINA CHACABUCO atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 3 rales y de salud gra- cias a la pro- mulgacin de la lla- mada Ley del Seguro Obligatorio. El empresario salitrero, por su par- te, organiz a travs de sus admi- nistradores y empleados, la ges- tin de las Oficinas Salitreras por medio de una frrea disciplina en la que se discrimin positivamen- te en favor de la familia. As, los sueldos por el mismo trabajo eran mayores para un obrero casado que para uno soltero. La prspera industria del salitre, cuyo comienzo se ha situado ha- cia 1830, fue duramente golpea- da; primero, por la invencin del salitre sinttico (Alemania, 1914) y, luego, por las sucesivas crisis econmicas y guerras que enfren- t el mundo en la primera mitad del siglo XX. La Ex Oficina Salitrera Chacabuco se construy entre los aos 1922 y 1924, en los terrenos de la Ex Oficina Salitrera Lastenia, con un costo de un milln de libras ester- linas. Se inaugur en el ao 1924 y fue cerrada definitivamente el ao 1940. Su propietario fue la fir- ma inglesa Anglo Nitrate Compa- ny Ltda., posteriormente Anglo Lautaro Nitrate Company, repre- sentados en Antofagasta por Ba- burizza, Lukinovic & Cia. A su vez, fue la ltima Oficina Sa- litrera que implement el sistema productivodenominadoShanks. Destac adems por su gran ta- mao, capacidad productiva (150.000 toneladas mtricas de salitre y 922 quintales mtricos de yodo, anualmente) y calidad de sus instalaciones, tanto industria- les como de habitacin. En su pe- rodo de mayor actividad produ- jo 15.000 toneladas mtricas de salitre mensualmente y lleg a al- bergar alrededor de 5.000 habi- tantes. Si bien la Ex Oficina Salitrera Cha- cabuco cerr en el ao 1940 sus propietarios la mantuvieron, algu- nos aos, en espera de la reacti- vacin de la industria; sin embar- go, una vez desechada esa posi- bilidad, hacia el ao 1945, co- menz su desmantelamiento. En el ao 1968 la Anglo Lautaro Nitrate Company vendi la Ex Oficina Salitrera Chacabuco a la Sociedad Qumica y Minera de Chile(SOQUIMICH), quien man- tuvo la propiedad de este bien hasta 1972, ao en que fue ocu- pada por las Fuerzas Armadas. Construccin de Oficina Pedro de Valdivia. Los bailes sociales se realizaban en la Filarmnica y se llevaban a cabo en las Los bailes sociales se realizaban en la Filarmnica y se llevaban a cabo en las Los bailes sociales se realizaban en la Filarmnica y se llevaban a cabo en las Los bailes sociales se realizaban en la Filarmnica y se llevaban a cabo en las Los bailes sociales se realizaban en la Filarmnica y se llevaban a cabo en las siguientes fechas: 1 de enero, 1 y 21 de mayo, 15 de agosto, 18 y 19 de Sep- siguientes fechas: 1 de enero, 1 y 21 de mayo, 15 de agosto, 18 y 19 de Sep- siguientes fechas: 1 de enero, 1 y 21 de mayo, 15 de agosto, 18 y 19 de Sep- siguientes fechas: 1 de enero, 1 y 21 de mayo, 15 de agosto, 18 y 19 de Sep- siguientes fechas: 1 de enero, 1 y 21 de mayo, 15 de agosto, 18 y 19 de Sep- tiembre, 12 de octubre y 25 de diciembre. Participaban empleados y obreros tiembre, 12 de octubre y 25 de diciembre. Participaban empleados y obreros tiembre, 12 de octubre y 25 de diciembre. Participaban empleados y obreros tiembre, 12 de octubre y 25 de diciembre. Participaban empleados y obreros tiembre, 12 de octubre y 25 de diciembre. Participaban empleados y obreros atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 4 Bateas de cristalizacin, muelles de secado y plaza de la Oficina Salitrera Chacabuco, c. 1930. En 1971 la Ex Oficina Salitrera Chacabuco fue declarada Monu- mento Nacional, en la categora de Monumento Histrico, como una forma de preservar este enor- me testimonio vivo de lo que fue el desarrollo industrial del salitre en Chile y el modo de vida de la poca. Es, por esto mismo, que entre los aos 1971 y 1973 se realizaron algunos trabajos orientados a la restauracin, conservacin, orde- namiento y limpieza del lugar, con el objeto de transformarlo en un museo de sitio, centro de estu- dios y registros. Ocurrido el golpe militar del 11 de septiembre de 1973, las Fuer- zas Armadas utilizaron la Ex Ofi- cina Salitrera Chacabuco como lugar de detencin y campo de prisioneros polticos hasta 1974. Hacia fines de los aos ochenta la Ex Oficina Salitrera de Chacabu- co presentaba un estado general de deterioro, se haba desmante- lado el sector industrial, desapa- recidos algunos techos y maderas e incendiado la iglesia. Esta situa- cin se revirti, en parte, gracias al aporte del Gobierno Alemn, el que a travs del Goethe Institute de Santiago y algunas institucio- nes chile- nas, rea- liz la res- tauracin del Teatro en 1992. Posteriormente desde el ao 1990 y hasta la actualidad el Fisco de Chile a travs del Ministerio de Bienes Nacionales ejerce la tui- cin y dominio de la Ex Oficina Salitrera Chacabuco. RUTA PATRIMONIAL EX OFICINA SALITRERA CHACABUCO Para iniciar su visita ingrese por el portn claramente identificado y encontrar a su derecha la Recep- cin, en las antiguas dependen- cias del jardinero de la Ex Oficina Salitrera Chacabuco. A partir de aqu dirjase por la misma calle de entrada hasta lle- gar a calle Coquimbo, luego des- plcese hacia la derecha y cami- ne hasta la Plaza, hito ya visible desde este punto. Aqu encon- trar la seal que contiene el Pla- no General de la Ex Oficina Sali- trera, localizado en el lado Nor- te de la Plaza. Este le permitir te- ner una idea general de la distri- conjuntamente. En esas ocasiones un obrero poda sacar a bailar a una hija conjuntamente. En esas ocasiones un obrero poda sacar a bailar a una hija conjuntamente. En esas ocasiones un obrero poda sacar a bailar a una hija conjuntamente. En esas ocasiones un obrero poda sacar a bailar a una hija conjuntamente. En esas ocasiones un obrero poda sacar a bailar a una hija de un empleado superior, o una dama de sociedad poda bailar con un obre- de un empleado superior, o una dama de sociedad poda bailar con un obre- de un empleado superior, o una dama de sociedad poda bailar con un obre- de un empleado superior, o una dama de sociedad poda bailar con un obre- de un empleado superior, o una dama de sociedad poda bailar con un obre- ro que destacara por hacerlo bien. Esta ocasin era denominada Da del Pen- ro que destacara por hacerlo bien. Esta ocasin era denominada Da del Pen- ro que destacara por hacerlo bien. Esta ocasin era denominada Da del Pen- ro que destacara por hacerlo bien. Esta ocasin era denominada Da del Pen- ro que destacara por hacerlo bien. Esta ocasin era denominada Da del Pen- samiento Libre. samiento Libre. samiento Libre. samiento Libre. samiento Libre. atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 5 Teatro de Chacabuco restaurado en1992. Teatro de Chacabuco, c. 1929. Boca del Teatro de Chacabuco, c.1929. ta en su centro, paseos con ban- cos, rboles de la especie Pi- miento y plantas ornamentales. La Escuela (1) Escuela (1) Escuela (1) Escuela (1) Escuela (1) tena educacin pri- maria (1 a 6 preparatoria) y esta- ba dividida en reas femenina y masculina, con un promedio de 200 estudiantes en cada una. Contaba con 10 salas de clases y era atendida por profesores del Es- tado. La Filarmnica (2), Filarmnica (2), Filarmnica (2), Filarmnica (2), Filarmnica (2), saln de reu- niones y bailes era un edificio con capacidad para doscientas perso- nas, que contaba con servicios hi- ginicos para hombres y mujeres y un casino en donde se jugaba billar, cartas, domin y ping- pong, entre otros. El Teatro y Biblioteca (3), Teatro y Biblioteca (3), Teatro y Biblioteca (3), Teatro y Biblioteca (3), Teatro y Biblioteca (3), gran edificio de 750 metros cuadrados que destaca por su altura y cons- truccin, tena capacidad para 1.200 espectadores (700 en gale- ra, 100 en anfiteatro, 300 en pla- tea y 100 en butacas de palcos). En su estructura de fachada distin- guimos el porsche y hall de acce- so (primero y segundo piso) y la sala de lectura y libros (segundo y tercer piso). bucin de las dependencias y de la localizacin de los puntos ms notables del circuito. Una vez familiarizado con las lo- calizaciones del Plano General, camine hacia el Oeste donde en- contrar la seal CENTRO URBANO Con sus cuatro costados bien di- Con sus cuatro costados bien di- Con sus cuatro costados bien di- Con sus cuatro costados bien di- Con sus cuatro costados bien di- ferenciados entre s, la Plaza es ferenciados entre s, la Plaza es ferenciados entre s, la Plaza es ferenciados entre s, la Plaza es ferenciados entre s, la Plaza es el punto de encuentro social e el punto de encuentro social e el punto de encuentro social e el punto de encuentro social e el punto de encuentro social e industrial de la oficina salitrera. industrial de la oficina salitrera. industrial de la oficina salitrera. industrial de la oficina salitrera. industrial de la oficina salitrera. En la fachada Oeste, iniciando el En la fachada Oeste, iniciando el En la fachada Oeste, iniciando el En la fachada Oeste, iniciando el En la fachada Oeste, iniciando el campamento obrero, se locali- campamento obrero, se locali- campamento obrero, se locali- campamento obrero, se locali- campamento obrero, se locali- zaba la Escuela, la Filarmnica y zaba la Escuela, la Filarmnica y zaba la Escuela, la Filarmnica y zaba la Escuela, la Filarmnica y zaba la Escuela, la Filarmnica y el Teatro con la Biblioteca en el el Teatro con la Biblioteca en el el Teatro con la Biblioteca en el el Teatro con la Biblioteca en el el Teatro con la Biblioteca en el tercer piso; al Sur la Adminis- tercer piso; al Sur la Adminis- tercer piso; al Sur la Adminis- tercer piso; al Sur la Adminis- tercer piso; al Sur la Adminis- tracin y la Maestranza; al Este tracin y la Maestranza; al Este tracin y la Maestranza; al Este tracin y la Maestranza; al Este tracin y la Maestranza; al Este los muelles y cancha de secado los muelles y cancha de secado los muelles y cancha de secado los muelles y cancha de secado los muelles y cancha de secado del salitre y, al Norte, las Vi- del salitre y, al Norte, las Vi- del salitre y, al Norte, las Vi- del salitre y, al Norte, las Vi- del salitre y, al Norte, las Vi- viendas de Empleados. viendas de Empleados. viendas de Empleados. viendas de Empleados. viendas de Empleados. La Plaza (0) Plaza (0) Plaza (0) Plaza (0) Plaza (0) es un cuadrado per- fecto de 50 metros por lado, en- marcada en un espacio mayor de 100 x 100 metros. Constitua el centro de la Oficina Salitrera y fue concebida como rea verde, de recreacin y encuentro social. Contaba con un kiosco de retre- Teatro de Chacabuco en la actualidad. 1927, junio 22 / MEDIDA DE PREVISIN: Al convoy que pasa por la puerta 1927, junio 22 / MEDIDA DE PREVISIN: Al convoy que pasa por la puerta 1927, junio 22 / MEDIDA DE PREVISIN: Al convoy que pasa por la puerta 1927, junio 22 / MEDIDA DE PREVISIN: Al convoy que pasa por la puerta 1927, junio 22 / MEDIDA DE PREVISIN: Al convoy que pasa por la puerta de la calle Valparaso trayendo el salitre del lado de Amelia o Puelma sera de la calle Valparaso trayendo el salitre del lado de Amelia o Puelma sera de la calle Valparaso trayendo el salitre del lado de Amelia o Puelma sera de la calle Valparaso trayendo el salitre del lado de Amelia o Puelma sera de la calle Valparaso trayendo el salitre del lado de Amelia o Puelma sera atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 6 Contine su visita, por calle Lynch hacia el Norte, sector que fue ocupado como Campo de Campo de Campo de Campo de Campo de Prisioneros Polticos Prisioneros Polticos Prisioneros Polticos Prisioneros Polticos Prisioneros Polticos entre los aos 1973 y 1974. En la esquina Noroeste de calles Lynch y Coquimbo, en una anti- gua vivienda de obreros, se ubica- ba el almacn del Campo de Pri- sioneros Polticos, el cual fue or- ganizado con ayuda de la Vicara de la Solidaridad (institucin chi- lena que colabor y prest ayuda a los familiares de detenidos y de- saparecidos polticos durante el Rgimen Militar), familiares de prisioneros y aportes de 300 Escu- dos (moneda nacional de aque- llos aos) por socio. Este alma- cn, llamado por los prisioneros Pulpera (denominacin utiliza- da en la poca de la industria del Salitre), ofreca mercaderas varia- das, frutas y verduras frescas o en conserva, cigarrillos, leche, agua soda y bebidas gaseosas, entre otros productos. Siga hacia el Norte por calle Lynch y cruzar la calle Atacama, rebautizada por los prisioneros como avenida Karl Marx. Con- tine hasta la interseccin con calle Antofagasta y llegar al de- nominado barrio cvico del Cam- po de Prisioneros Polticos, don- de encontrar la seal PRISIONEROS POLTICOS En este sector, delimitado por En este sector, delimitado por En este sector, delimitado por En este sector, delimitado por En este sector, delimitado por alambradas de pas, minas an- alambradas de pas, minas an- alambradas de pas, minas an- alambradas de pas, minas an- alambradas de pas, minas an- tipersonales y torres de vigilancia tipersonales y torres de vigilancia tipersonales y torres de vigilancia tipersonales y torres de vigilancia tipersonales y torres de vigilancia estuvieron detenidos, entre 1973 estuvieron detenidos, entre 1973 estuvieron detenidos, entre 1973 estuvieron detenidos, entre 1973 estuvieron detenidos, entre 1973 y 1974, ms de 1.800 hombres y 1974, ms de 1.800 hombres y 1974, ms de 1.800 hombres y 1974, ms de 1.800 hombres y 1974, ms de 1.800 hombres de distintas zonas del pas, clases de distintas zonas del pas, clases de distintas zonas del pas, clases de distintas zonas del pas, clases de distintas zonas del pas, clases sociales, edades, profesiones y sociales, edades, profesiones y sociales, edades, profesiones y sociales, edades, profesiones y sociales, edades, profesiones y oficios. Encarcelados y aislados oficios. Encarcelados y aislados oficios. Encarcelados y aislados oficios. Encarcelados y aislados oficios. Encarcelados y aislados del mundo dieron nuevamente del mundo dieron nuevamente del mundo dieron nuevamente del mundo dieron nuevamente del mundo dieron nuevamente vida a este lugar, creando un vida a este lugar, creando un vida a este lugar, creando un vida a este lugar, creando un vida a este lugar, creando un campo de prisioneros organiza- campo de prisioneros organiza- campo de prisioneros organiza- campo de prisioneros organiza- campo de prisioneros organiza- do con un Consejo de Ancianos, do con un Consejo de Ancianos, do con un Consejo de Ancianos, do con un Consejo de Ancianos, do con un Consejo de Ancianos, Escuela, Biblioteca, Iglesias, Tea- Escuela, Biblioteca, Iglesias, Tea- Escuela, Biblioteca, Iglesias, Tea- Escuela, Biblioteca, Iglesias, Tea- Escuela, Biblioteca, Iglesias, Tea- tro de Cmara y Policlnico. tro de Cmara y Policlnico. tro de Cmara y Policlnico. tro de Cmara y Policlnico. tro de Cmara y Policlnico. En la esquina Noroeste de las calles Lynch y Antofagasta, de Sur a Norte, los prisioneros polticos ubicaron las siguientes dependen- cias: el Correo, el Teatro de C- mara, el Consejo de Ancianos y el Policlnico. El Consejo de Ancianos era una entidad compuesta por un repre- sentante de cada pabelln y fue Vista desde el Teatro hacia el norte del Campamento. conveniente advertirle a los maquinistas que pasen con cuidado, porque en conveniente advertirle a los maquinistas que pasen con cuidado, porque en conveniente advertirle a los maquinistas que pasen con cuidado, porque en conveniente advertirle a los maquinistas que pasen con cuidado, porque en conveniente advertirle a los maquinistas que pasen con cuidado, porque en los alrededores hay muchos nios chicos. los alrededores hay muchos nios chicos. los alrededores hay muchos nios chicos. los alrededores hay muchos nios chicos. los alrededores hay muchos nios chicos. CUADERNO DE VIGILANTES OFICINA CHACABUCO CUADERNO DE VIGILANTES OFICINA CHACABUCO CUADERNO DE VIGILANTES OFICINA CHACABUCO CUADERNO DE VIGILANTES OFICINA CHACABUCO CUADERNO DE VIGILANTES OFICINA CHACABUCO atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 7 Actual fachada del Hospital de Chacabuco. Patio de Hospital de Oficina Salitrera Diploma otorgado a Jorge Montealegre, ex prisionero poltico de Chacabuco, en 1974. Dibujo de Adam Policzer, ex-prisionero poltico de Chacabuco, realizado en cautiverio. creada para mediar y relacionar- se con los militares. En l, por tan- to, se tomaban importantes deci- siones relativas al bienestar de los prisioneros y se formulaban pro- puestas para el buen funciona- miento del Campo de Prisioneros Polticos. El Policlnico, atendido por mdicos que se encontraban prisioneros, prestaba servicios mdicos y odontolgicos a todos los presos y, en ms de una oca- sin, a los militares que los custo- diaban. En la acera de enfrente en la es- quina Noreste ubicaron, de Nor- te a Sur, la Escuela y la Biblioteca. La Escuela se constituy en un centro de formacin con una am- plia gama de cursos a cargo de profesores y acadmicos prisione- ros. Esto posibilit la adquisicin de conocimientos a prisioneros que no haban podido terminar sus estudios y, tambin, a aque- llos que, habindolos con- cluido, queran incursio- nar en nuevas reas. A su vez, la Biblioteca instala- da sobre la litera de una de las habitaciones, reu- na una pequea coleccin de li- bros que fue incrementndose con el paso del tiempo. Regrese a la seal N 2 Prisione- ros Polticos. Al Este, al final de esta calle llamada Antofagasta, se localizaban el Hospital y Mater- Hospital y Mater- Hospital y Mater- Hospital y Mater- Hospital y Mater- nidad (4) nidad (4) nidad (4) nidad (4) nidad (4) de la Ex Oficina Salitre- ra, dependencias utilizadas como hospital militar durante la perma- nencia de los prisioneros polti- cos. Ahora camine por calle Antofa- gasta, al llegar a calle Bulnes do- ble a la izquierda y camine hacia el Sur; al lado derecho, al interior de la cuarta puerta, hallar ocu- pando toda la pared un retablo gigante, obra realizada por los pri- sioneros polticos, con tcnicas mixtas que recrea las casas e igle- sia de la Ex oficina Salitrera Cha- cabuco. Para continuar con el circuito re- tome calle Antofagasta ha- cia el Oeste, hasta la inter- seccin con calle Al- dea, donde encontrar la seal 1927, agosto 19 / VENDEDORES DE PAN: En repetidas ocasiones se les ha 1927, agosto 19 / VENDEDORES DE PAN: En repetidas ocasiones se les ha 1927, agosto 19 / VENDEDORES DE PAN: En repetidas ocasiones se les ha 1927, agosto 19 / VENDEDORES DE PAN: En repetidas ocasiones se les ha 1927, agosto 19 / VENDEDORES DE PAN: En repetidas ocasiones se les ha hecho saber a los dos comerciantes de pan, que no se deben dejar los anima- hecho saber a los dos comerciantes de pan, que no se deben dejar los anima- hecho saber a los dos comerciantes de pan, que no se deben dejar los anima- hecho saber a los dos comerciantes de pan, que no se deben dejar los anima- hecho saber a los dos comerciantes de pan, que no se deben dejar los anima- les junto a los carros que traen pan, porque dichos animales se hacen todas les junto a los carros que traen pan, porque dichos animales se hacen todas les junto a los carros que traen pan, porque dichos animales se hacen todas les junto a los carros que traen pan, porque dichos animales se hacen todas les junto a los carros que traen pan, porque dichos animales se hacen todas sus necesidades a corta distancia de los canastos, pero dichos comerciantes no sus necesidades a corta distancia de los canastos, pero dichos comerciantes no sus necesidades a corta distancia de los canastos, pero dichos comerciantes no sus necesidades a corta distancia de los canastos, pero dichos comerciantes no sus necesidades a corta distancia de los canastos, pero dichos comerciantes no atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 8 CANCHAS DEPORTIVAS El deporte era un pasatiempo El deporte era un pasatiempo El deporte era un pasatiempo El deporte era un pasatiempo El deporte era un pasatiempo importante en la vida de los tra- importante en la vida de los tra- importante en la vida de los tra- importante en la vida de los tra- importante en la vida de los tra- bajadores de las oficinas sali- bajadores de las oficinas sali- bajadores de las oficinas sali- bajadores de las oficinas sali- bajadores de las oficinas sali- treras y, tambin, en la de los pri- treras y, tambin, en la de los pri- treras y, tambin, en la de los pri- treras y, tambin, en la de los pri- treras y, tambin, en la de los pri- sioneros polticos de 1973-1974. sioneros polticos de 1973-1974. sioneros polticos de 1973-1974. sioneros polticos de 1973-1974. sioneros polticos de 1973-1974. Para ello se acondicionaron can- Para ello se acondicionaron can- Para ello se acondicionaron can- Para ello se acondicionaron can- Para ello se acondicionaron can- chas de ftbol (y de tenis, slo chas de ftbol (y de tenis, slo chas de ftbol (y de tenis, slo chas de ftbol (y de tenis, slo chas de ftbol (y de tenis, slo para empleados) alrededor de las para empleados) alrededor de las para empleados) alrededor de las para empleados) alrededor de las para empleados) alrededor de las cuales se encontraban las 904 cuales se encontraban las 904 cuales se encontraban las 904 cuales se encontraban las 904 cuales se encontraban las 904 viviendas del campamento obre- viviendas del campamento obre- viviendas del campamento obre- viviendas del campamento obre- viviendas del campamento obre- ro: 654 de obreros casados y ro: 654 de obreros casados y ro: 654 de obreros casados y ro: 654 de obreros casados y ro: 654 de obreros casados y 250 cuartos de obreros solteros. 250 cuartos de obreros solteros. 250 cuartos de obreros solteros. 250 cuartos de obreros solteros. 250 cuartos de obreros solteros. En tiempos de la Oficina Salitre- ra, estas Canchas Deportivas Canchas Deportivas Canchas Deportivas Canchas Deportivas Canchas Deportivas fue- ron utilizadas para desarrollar la prctica del ftbol, baby ftbol, basketball y voleyball, entre otros deportes. Cuando fue Campo de Prisioneros Polticos, la cancha del lado Oeste fue el lugar de for- macin diaria de los detenidos, los que ordenados por pabelln y en forma de U deban enume- rarse e izar la bandera de Chile cantando el Himno Nacional. En calle Antofagasta con calle Se- rrano, en la esquina Noreste, se encuentra el lugar que los prisio- neros convirtieron en Iglesia Ca- Equipo de Baloncesto de Chacabuco, c.1930. han tomado en cuenta la orden impartida, por cuyo motivo se les notific han tomado en cuenta la orden impartida, por cuyo motivo se les notific han tomado en cuenta la orden impartida, por cuyo motivo se les notific han tomado en cuenta la orden impartida, por cuyo motivo se les notific han tomado en cuenta la orden impartida, por cuyo motivo se les notific que si volvan a infringir, se les prohiba entrar su carretas y slo podran ven- que si volvan a infringir, se les prohiba entrar su carretas y slo podran ven- que si volvan a infringir, se les prohiba entrar su carretas y slo podran ven- que si volvan a infringir, se les prohiba entrar su carretas y slo podran ven- que si volvan a infringir, se les prohiba entrar su carretas y slo podran ven- der el pan entrndolo en canasta. der el pan entrndolo en canasta. der el pan entrndolo en canasta. der el pan entrndolo en canasta. der el pan entrndolo en canasta. CUADERNO DE VIGILANTES OFICINA CHACABUCO CUADERNO DE VIGILANTES OFICINA CHACABUCO CUADERNO DE VIGILANTES OFICINA CHACABUCO CUADERNO DE VIGILANTES OFICINA CHACABUCO CUADERNO DE VIGILANTES OFICINA CHACABUCO tlica; este recinto o r n a - mentado con imgenes de la Bi- blia pintadas en sus paredes, fue el refugio para muchos prisione- ros creyentes que pudieron cele- brar sus misas. En diagonal a sta, en la esquina Suroeste, se encon- traba la Iglesia Evanglica. Regrese a la seal N 3 Canchas Deportivas, en calle Aldea con Antofagasta, y camine hacia el Sur. En calle Aldea entre calles Atacama y Coquimbo encontra- r, en la acera Oeste, los Baos Baos Baos Baos Baos Pblicos y Piscina (5) Pblicos y Piscina (5) Pblicos y Piscina (5) Pblicos y Piscina (5) Pblicos y Piscina (5) de la Ex Oficina Salitrera. Estos posean un rea para hombres y otra para mujeres, con una capacidad total de 57 servicios. En medio de ellos estaba la Piscina que consista en un estanque de 10 x 8 metros y 2 de profundidad. En frente, en la acera Este, hacien- do esquina con calle Atacama, estaba la Lavandera y Gimnasio Lavandera y Gimnasio Lavandera y Gimnasio Lavandera y Gimnasio Lavandera y Gimnasio (6). (6). (6). (6). (6). Este ltimo, con piso de ma- dera, inclua sala de Box y fue uti- lizado por los prisioneros polticos para la realizacin de sus trabajos y como Saln de Actos en sus pre- sentaciones artsticas, realizadas atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 9 Caminando por Coquimbo hacia el Este, en la esquina Sureste de las calles Coquimbo y Uribe, po- dr apreciar la sede de la Liga Me- todista de S. M. Iglesia Metodista Episcopal de la Ex Oficina Salitre- ra Chacabuco. Dirigindose hacia el Oeste por calle Coquimbo hasta el final, lle- gar a las viviendas de cierre y en- contrar una de las puertas de ac- ceso de la Ex Oficina Salitrera actualmente tapiada denomi- nadas trancas. Las viviendas de cie- rre se ubicaban en los lmites Nor- te, Sur y Oeste del Campamento Obrero; eran viviendas pareadas cuyos muros cabeceros y de cie- rre configuraban una larga mura- lla ininterrumpida, la cual posea gracia y simpleza por su ritmo constante, fruto de la alternancia del frontn triangular de los has- tiales con el muro horizontal que cierra los patios: un elemento con sorprendente efecto escnico. Las Viviendas de Obreros Viviendas de Obreros Viviendas de Obreros Viviendas de Obreros Viviendas de Obreros casa- dos contaban con luz elctrica pero carecan de agua potable. Todas tenan sus accesos y venta- los das domingo. Al lado de es- tas dependencias, por calle Uri- be, se instalaron los comedores de los prisioneros polticos. Terminando su visita por el recin- to del Campo de Prisioneros Pol- ticos, camine un poco ms al Sur y en la interseccin de calles Al- dea y Coquimbo encontrar la se- al CAMPAMENTO OBRERO Las viviendas de los obreros ca- Las viviendas de los obreros ca- Las viviendas de los obreros ca- Las viviendas de los obreros ca- Las viviendas de los obreros ca- sados eran de 2, 3, 4 6 habita- sados eran de 2, 3, 4 6 habita- sados eran de 2, 3, 4 6 habita- sados eran de 2, 3, 4 6 habita- sados eran de 2, 3, 4 6 habita- ciones, con cocina y patio. Des- ciones, con cocina y patio. Des- ciones, con cocina y patio. Des- ciones, con cocina y patio. Des- ciones, con cocina y patio. Des- tacan las viviendas perimetrales tacan las viviendas perimetrales tacan las viviendas perimetrales tacan las viviendas perimetrales tacan las viviendas perimetrales que establecen un impresionante que establecen un impresionante que establecen un impresionante que establecen un impresionante que establecen un impresionante cierre o frontera con el desierto cierre o frontera con el desierto cierre o frontera con el desierto cierre o frontera con el desierto cierre o frontera con el desierto y, como parte de ste, la larga su- y, como parte de ste, la larga su- y, como parte de ste, la larga su- y, como parte de ste, la larga su- y, como parte de ste, la larga su- cesin de 250 cuartos para sol- cesin de 250 cuartos para sol- cesin de 250 cuartos para sol- cesin de 250 cuartos para sol- cesin de 250 cuartos para sol- teros localizados al Sur. Slo teros localizados al Sur. Slo teros localizados al Sur. Slo teros localizados al Sur. Slo teros localizados al Sur. Slo existan baos pblicos y, en ca- existan baos pblicos y, en ca- existan baos pblicos y, en ca- existan baos pblicos y, en ca- existan baos pblicos y, en ca- da esquina, pilones de agua para da esquina, pilones de agua para da esquina, pilones de agua para da esquina, pilones de agua para da esquina, pilones de agua para uso domstico. El campamento uso domstico. El campamento uso domstico. El campamento uso domstico. El campamento uso domstico. El campamento contaba, adems, con piscina, contaba, adems, con piscina, contaba, adems, con piscina, contaba, adems, con piscina, contaba, adems, con piscina, gimnasio y lavandera. gimnasio y lavandera. gimnasio y lavandera. gimnasio y lavandera. gimnasio y lavandera. Las calles Coquimbo y Valpara- so fueron las principales vas de la Ex Oficina Salitrera Chacabuco. Coquimbo se caracterizaba, ade- ms, por ser la mediana o lnea geomtrica que divida en dos mi- tades iguales el campamento, atravesndolo de extremo a extre- mo; la calle Valparaso, en tanto, concentraba el equipamiento ur- bano. Cuartos de Solteros. Los nios jugaban algo similar al bisbol con pelotas hechas con medias, a las Los nios jugaban algo similar al bisbol con pelotas hechas con medias, a las Los nios jugaban algo similar al bisbol con pelotas hechas con medias, a las Los nios jugaban algo similar al bisbol con pelotas hechas con medias, a las Los nios jugaban algo similar al bisbol con pelotas hechas con medias, a las que golpeaban con el puo. Tambin se jugaba a la musa y a las bolitas (chi- que golpeaban con el puo. Tambin se jugaba a la musa y a las bolitas (chi- que golpeaban con el puo. Tambin se jugaba a la musa y a las bolitas (chi- que golpeaban con el puo. Tambin se jugaba a la musa y a las bolitas (chi- que golpeaban con el puo. Tambin se jugaba a la musa y a las bolitas (chi- ta y cuarta, la troyana, ...). Coleccionaban cajetillas de cigarros, cada una ta y cuarta, la troyana, ...). Coleccionaban cajetillas de cigarros, cada una ta y cuarta, la troyana, ...). Coleccionaban cajetillas de cigarros, cada una ta y cuarta, la troyana, ...). Coleccionaban cajetillas de cigarros, cada una ta y cuarta, la troyana, ...). Coleccionaban cajetillas de cigarros, cada una de las cuales tena diferente puntaje. Las nias jugaban a la cuerda, a la casi- de las cuales tena diferente puntaje. Las nias jugaban a la cuerda, a la casi- de las cuales tena diferente puntaje. Las nias jugaban a la cuerda, a la casi- de las cuales tena diferente puntaje. Las nias jugaban a la cuerda, a la casi- de las cuales tena diferente puntaje. Las nias jugaban a la cuerda, a la casi- atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 10 nas hacia el Oriente o Poniente, as las calles que corran en el mis- mo sentido slo posean muros ciegos. Las manzanas median 35 x 45 metros o 45 x 45 metros y se organizaban en dos bloques de casas, separadas por pasajes de 3 metros de ancho. El material utilizado en la cons- truccin de estas viviendas fue es- tructura de madera, muros de adobe enlucido, cubierta de cala- mina embarrada y pisos de tierra apisonada. Regresando a la seal N 4 Cam- pamento Obrero y caminando hacia el Sur por Calle Aldea, en la esquina Suroeste de Aldea con Aconcagua se encontraba el Mer- Mer- Mer- Mer- Mer- cado (7) cado (7) cado (7) cado (7) cado (7) y, en diagonal a ste, es- quina Noreste, la Sucursal de la Pulpera, cuya fachada an con- Cancha de ftbol. Cuartos de Solteros en el lmite Oeste y Sur de Chacabuco. Chacabuco, c.1930. Baos Pblicos. Calle del Campamento Obrero de Chacabuco. neta, a la payaya y a las muecas. Era frecuente que los hijos de los em- neta, a la payaya y a las muecas. Era frecuente que los hijos de los em- neta, a la payaya y a las muecas. Era frecuente que los hijos de los em- neta, a la payaya y a las muecas. Era frecuente que los hijos de los em- neta, a la payaya y a las muecas. Era frecuente que los hijos de los em- pleados jugaran con los hijos de los obreros en las canchas y participaran en pleados jugaran con los hijos de los obreros en las canchas y participaran en pleados jugaran con los hijos de los obreros en las canchas y participaran en pleados jugaran con los hijos de los obreros en las canchas y participaran en pleados jugaran con los hijos de los obreros en las canchas y participaran en las actividades artsticas de los sindicatos. las actividades artsticas de los sindicatos. las actividades artsticas de los sindicatos. las actividades artsticas de los sindicatos. las actividades artsticas de los sindicatos. atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 11 Este, se encontrar con los muros de la Iglesia Catlica (8) Iglesia Catlica (8) Iglesia Catlica (8) Iglesia Catlica (8) Iglesia Catlica (8) la que, por su emplazamiento alejado de la plaza, llama la atencin en nuestro modelo de emplazamien- to urbano espaol. La iglesia es- taba conformada por una nave central y dos laterales. La fachada principal estaba compuesta por una torre fachada, donde el acce- so y la nave estaban rematadas por un campanario cuadrado con techo a cuatro aguas, sobre el cual estaba la cruz. El acceso principal estaba conformado por tres puertas de dos hojas, mientras que los accesos a las naves latera- les, retrados dos metros de la lnea de la nave central, posean puertas ms angostas. Tanto puer- tas como ventanas tenan arcos ojivales recordando de alguna manera el estilo ingls. Si contina caminando hacia el Este por avenida Valparaso ver, serva pinturas murales de la po- ca. Caminando por calle Aldea al Sur llegar a la seal AVENIDA VALPARASO Chacabuco contaba con una Chacabuco contaba con una Chacabuco contaba con una Chacabuco contaba con una Chacabuco contaba con una poblacin de 5.000 habitantes, poblacin de 5.000 habitantes, poblacin de 5.000 habitantes, poblacin de 5.000 habitantes, poblacin de 5.000 habitantes, siendo sta una de las princi- siendo sta una de las princi- siendo sta una de las princi- siendo sta una de las princi- siendo sta una de las princi- pales arterias del campamento pales arterias del campamento pales arterias del campamento pales arterias del campamento pales arterias del campamento obrero donde se concentraban obrero donde se concentraban obrero donde se concentraban obrero donde se concentraban obrero donde se concentraban las actividades cotidianas ms las actividades cotidianas ms las actividades cotidianas ms las actividades cotidianas ms las actividades cotidianas ms importantes. En ella se en- importantes. En ella se en- importantes. En ella se en- importantes. En ella se en- importantes. En ella se en- contraba la Iglesia Catlica contraba la Iglesia Catlica contraba la Iglesia Catlica contraba la Iglesia Catlica contraba la Iglesia Catlica (incendiada en 1983), el Hotel, (incendiada en 1983), el Hotel, (incendiada en 1983), el Hotel, (incendiada en 1983), el Hotel, (incendiada en 1983), el Hotel, la Pulpera y la Administracin la Pulpera y la Administracin la Pulpera y la Administracin la Pulpera y la Administracin la Pulpera y la Administracin de la Oficina Salitrera. Adems, de la Oficina Salitrera. Adems, de la Oficina Salitrera. Adems, de la Oficina Salitrera. Adems, de la Oficina Salitrera. Adems, esta Avenida era cruzada por el esta Avenida era cruzada por el esta Avenida era cruzada por el esta Avenida era cruzada por el esta Avenida era cruzada por el ferrocarril salitrero. ferrocarril salitrero. ferrocarril salitrero. ferrocarril salitrero. ferrocarril salitrero. Si contina hacia el Sur por calle Aldea, encontrar al fondo, una hilera de cuartos de solteros que se constituyen en el lmite del campamento obrero. Hacia el ex- terior estos conforman una mura- lla que da continuidad al cierre de la Ex Oficina Salitrera; hacia el in- terior su fachada est constituida por una larga sucesin de puertas y ventanas, con cuartos de 2,5 x 3 metros, cada uno. Regrese hacia el Norte hasta Ave- nida Valparaso y camine hacia el Iglesia de Chacabuco, en 1973. Chacabuco, c.1935. La alimentacin era rica en caloras debido al gran desgaste fsico que impli- La alimentacin era rica en caloras debido al gran desgaste fsico que impli- La alimentacin era rica en caloras debido al gran desgaste fsico que impli- La alimentacin era rica en caloras debido al gran desgaste fsico que impli- La alimentacin era rica en caloras debido al gran desgaste fsico que impli- caba el trabajo realizado. El desayuno consista en una marraqueta doble con caba el trabajo realizado. El desayuno consista en una marraqueta doble con caba el trabajo realizado. El desayuno consista en una marraqueta doble con caba el trabajo realizado. El desayuno consista en una marraqueta doble con caba el trabajo realizado. El desayuno consista en una marraqueta doble con bistec de vacuno o pana, cebolla frita y dos huevos fritos, acompaado de una bistec de vacuno o pana, cebolla frita y dos huevos fritos, acompaado de una bistec de vacuno o pana, cebolla frita y dos huevos fritos, acompaado de una bistec de vacuno o pana, cebolla frita y dos huevos fritos, acompaado de una bistec de vacuno o pana, cebolla frita y dos huevos fritos, acompaado de una F o t o :
A n t o n i o
L a r r e a atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 12 a su derecha, el edificio de la Pul- Pul- Pul- Pul- Pul- pera (9) pera (9) pera (9) pera (9) pera (9) el cual en su fachada Oeste permita el acceso del tren para descarga de provisiones y materiales. La Pulpera tena sec- ciones como abarrotes, carnice- ra, panadera, carbonera y tien- da de gneros, abasteciendo con toda clase de productos a los tra- bajadores de la Ex Oficina Salitre- ra. Adems, estaban autorizados a ingresar diariamente al campa- mento vehculos con abarrotes, verduras y carretas con pan. En frente de sta se encontraba el Hotel (10) Hotel (10) Hotel (10) Hotel (10) Hotel (10) con la Cocinera y la Fonda, lugar de comidas y aloja- miento de obreros, que ocupaba toda la manzana. Si contina caminando hacia el Este por calle Valparaso, entre la Pulpera y el Teatro, situados a su derecha e izquierda, respectiva- mente, llegar a la esquina Sur- oeste de la Plaza donde se en- cuentra la seal PULPERA Y ADMINISTRACIN La Pulpera era el nico almacn La Pulpera era el nico almacn La Pulpera era el nico almacn La Pulpera era el nico almacn La Pulpera era el nico almacn general donde se vendan todos general donde se vendan todos general donde se vendan todos general donde se vendan todos general donde se vendan todos los productos bsicos para la los productos bsicos para la los productos bsicos para la los productos bsicos para la los productos bsicos para la vida diaria. Se constitua as en vida diaria. Se constitua as en vida diaria. Se constitua as en vida diaria. Se constitua as en vida diaria. Se constitua as en proveedor monoplico que obli- proveedor monoplico que obli- proveedor monoplico que obli- proveedor monoplico que obli- proveedor monoplico que obli- gaba a los trabajadores a realizar gaba a los trabajadores a realizar gaba a los trabajadores a realizar gaba a los trabajadores a realizar gaba a los trabajadores a realizar all la casi totalidad de sus com- all la casi totalidad de sus com- all la casi totalidad de sus com- all la casi totalidad de sus com- all la casi totalidad de sus com- pras. A diferencia de otras ofi- pras. A diferencia de otras ofi- pras. A diferencia de otras ofi- pras. A diferencia de otras ofi- pras. A diferencia de otras ofi- cinas salitreras las transacciones cinas salitreras las transacciones cinas salitreras las transacciones cinas salitreras las transacciones cinas salitreras las transacciones se realizaban con dinero, no con se realizaban con dinero, no con se realizaban con dinero, no con se realizaban con dinero, no con se realizaban con dinero, no con fichas o vales. Junto a ella estaba fichas o vales. Junto a ella estaba fichas o vales. Junto a ella estaba fichas o vales. Junto a ella estaba fichas o vales. Junto a ella estaba la Administracin, donde se or- la Administracin, donde se or- la Administracin, donde se or- la Administracin, donde se or- la Administracin, donde se or- ganizaba y diriga la actividad ganizaba y diriga la actividad ganizaba y diriga la actividad ganizaba y diriga la actividad ganizaba y diriga la actividad industrial de Chacabuco. industrial de Chacabuco. industrial de Chacabuco. industrial de Chacabuco. industrial de Chacabuco. En la Administracin (11) Administracin (11) Administracin (11) Administracin (11) Administracin (11) se en- contraba la jefatura de la Ex Ofi- cina Salitrera, que en trminos ac- tuales, se conoce como la Geren- cia. Esta dependencia era ocupa- da por el administrador y emplea- dos tales como subadministrador, ingenieros, qumicos y laborato- ristas, contador y ayudantes, jefe y ayudante de bienestar social, jefe de guardia, y tarjetero. La oficina de Bienestar Social se ocupaba del cumplimiento de las Leyes Sociales, que incluan: so- ciabilidad, deportes y entreteni- mientos, sociedades mutualistas, ahorros, servicio de registro civil, Hornos de la Panadera de Chacabuco. Corredor de la Pulpera. Calle del Campamento Obrero, c.1930. botella de 3/4 de litro de t. Un almuerzo consista en 20 onzas de hari- botella de 3/4 de litro de t. Un almuerzo consista en 20 onzas de hari- botella de 3/4 de litro de t. Un almuerzo consista en 20 onzas de hari- botella de 3/4 de litro de t. Un almuerzo consista en 20 onzas de hari- botella de 3/4 de litro de t. Un almuerzo consista en 20 onzas de hari- na tostada y 6 manos de higos secos. La cena, un plato de frijoles con gra- na tostada y 6 manos de higos secos. La cena, un plato de frijoles con gra- na tostada y 6 manos de higos secos. La cena, un plato de frijoles con gra- na tostada y 6 manos de higos secos. La cena, un plato de frijoles con gra- na tostada y 6 manos de higos secos. La cena, un plato de frijoles con gra- sa, mote y aj. sa, mote y aj. sa, mote y aj. sa, mote y aj. sa, mote y aj. atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 13 servicio de correo y telgrafo, po- lica particular, carabineros, servi- cio contra incendios, servicio re- ligioso, sanidad e higiene, ac- cidentes del trabajo, reclamos, bigrafo o cine, contratacio- nes, instruccin primaria, es- cuela nocturna para obreros y biblioteca. Para conocer el Sistema Pro- ductivo de la Ex Oficina Sali- trera Chacabuco dirjase hacia la esquina Sureste de la Plaza, y llegar a la seal SISTEMA PRODUCTIVO Para elaborar salitre se im- Para elaborar salitre se im- Para elaborar salitre se im- Para elaborar salitre se im- Para elaborar salitre se im- plement plement plement plement plement e ee eel ll llSistem Sistem Sistem Sistem Sistema aa aaShanks Shanks Shanks Shanks Shanks . .. .. El caliche extrado de la El caliche extrado de la El caliche extrado de la El caliche extrado de la El caliche extrado de la pampa se mola y disolva pampa se mola y disolva pampa se mola y disolva pampa se mola y disolva pampa se mola y disolva en agua a alta temperatura; en agua a alta temperatura; en agua a alta temperatura; en agua a alta temperatura; en agua a alta temperatura; el caldo obtenido concen- el caldo obtenido concen- el caldo obtenido concen- el caldo obtenido concen- el caldo obtenido concen- traba la sal de nitrato la traba la sal de nitrato la traba la sal de nitrato la traba la sal de nitrato la traba la sal de nitrato la cual por efecto de la eva- cual por efecto de la eva- cual por efecto de la eva- cual por efecto de la eva- cual por efecto de la eva- poracin cristalizaba y, poracin cristalizaba y, poracin cristalizaba y, poracin cristalizaba y, poracin cristalizaba y, luego, se secaba para ser luego, se secaba para ser luego, se secaba para ser luego, se secaba para ser luego, se secaba para ser envasado y transportado a envasado y transportado a envasado y transportado a envasado y transportado a envasado y transportado a los puertos de embarque. los puertos de embarque. los puertos de embarque. los puertos de embarque. los puertos de embarque. El yodo, subproducto de El yodo, subproducto de El yodo, subproducto de El yodo, subproducto de El yodo, subproducto de este proceso, estaba con- este proceso, estaba con- este proceso, estaba con- este proceso, estaba con- este proceso, estaba con- tenido en el caldo de diso- tenido en el caldo de diso- tenido en el caldo de diso- tenido en el caldo de diso- tenido en el caldo de diso- lucin. lucin. lucin. lucin. lucin. Desde aqu camine hasta llegar a la Chimenea (12) Chimenea (12) Chimenea (12) Chimenea (12) Chimenea (12) que con sus 35 metros de altura es visible desde mucha distancia. A la iz- quierda de la chimenea esta- ba la CASA DE CALDERAS CASA DE CALDERAS CASA DE CALDERAS CASA DE CALDERAS CASA DE CALDERAS, lugar donde se produca la energa a partir de lea y car- bn, en un comienzo, y de diesel ms tarde. Estas calde- ras eran las que producan el vapor que permita la disolu- cin del salitre dentro de los cachuchos (estanques de fie- rro). Ms a la izquierda se encontraba la CASA DE CASA DE CASA DE CASA DE CASA DE FUERZA FUERZA FUERZA FUERZA FUERZA con mquinas die- sel, generadores y tableros encargados de producir y controlar la energa elctri- ca. Por ltimo, a la izquier- da de ella se encontraba la BODEGA DE SACOS BODEGA DE SACOS BODEGA DE SACOS BODEGA DE SACOS BODEGA DE SACOS. Ahora camine hacia el Sur- este y atraviese por debajo de las lneas de los vagones que trasladaban el material estril a la TORTA DE RI- TORTA DE RI- TORTA DE RI- TORTA DE RI- TORTA DE RI- PIOS PIOS PIOS PIOS PIOS. Poco ms adelante encontrar el BUZN BUZN BUZN BUZN BUZN, un foso de concreto de gran profundidad, donde se reci- ba el caliche que alimenta- ba la molienda a travs de cintas transportadoras. El caliche se mola gradual- mente en las mquinas lla- madas CHANCADORAS CHANCADORAS CHANCADORAS CHANCADORAS CHANCADORAS, chanchos o acendraderas hasta alcanzar el tamao re- rea Industrial de Chacabuco. Descarg Las oficinas salitreras trabajaban 24 horas continuadas, dividindose por tur- Las oficinas salitreras trabajaban 24 horas continuadas, dividindose por tur- Las oficinas salitreras trabajaban 24 horas continuadas, dividindose por tur- Las oficinas salitreras trabajaban 24 horas continuadas, dividindose por tur- Las oficinas salitreras trabajaban 24 horas continuadas, dividindose por tur- nos para no detener las faenas. Los administradores valoraban en los obreros nos para no detener las faenas. Los administradores valoraban en los obreros nos para no detener las faenas. Los administradores valoraban en los obreros nos para no detener las faenas. Los administradores valoraban en los obreros nos para no detener las faenas. Los administradores valoraban en los obreros la fuerza muscular y la resistencia al cansancio. Uno de los trabajos ms ar- la fuerza muscular y la resistencia al cansancio. Uno de los trabajos ms ar- la fuerza muscular y la resistencia al cansancio. Uno de los trabajos ms ar- la fuerza muscular y la resistencia al cansancio. Uno de los trabajos ms ar- la fuerza muscular y la resistencia al cansancio. Uno de los trabajos ms ar- atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 14 querido. La Ex Oficina Salitrera Chacabuco contaba con 8 chan- cadoras primarias y 4 secunda- rias. Devulvase del Buzn y suba a la planta, terrapln en altura donde an permanecen las columnas que soportaban los CACHU- CACHU- CACHU- CACHU- CACHU- CHOS CHOS CHOS CHOS CHOS de ebullicin. El caliche molido pasaba a los cachuchos de ebullicin de 6 u 8 serpentines cada uno, por los que circulaba vapor a alta temperatu- ra. A estos estanques se les agre- gaba agua y se calentaban hasta lograr la disolucin qumica del caliche por lixiviacin, obtenien- do una solucin de nitrato de so- dio, tambin llamada caldo. Esta Ex Oficina Salitrera contaba con 54 cachuchos con una capa- cidad total de 151.200 pies cbi- cos. Al lado Norte de los cachuchos estaba la zona de los clarificado- res o chulladores, estanques de fierro donde el caldo era clarifica- do por decantacin, vale decir, la borra se depositaba en el fondo y la solucin con el nitrato arriba. Esta solucin era bombeada y traspasada por medio de canale- tas o canoas a las BATEAS DE BATEAS DE BATEAS DE BATEAS DE BATEAS DE CRISTALIZACIN CRISTALIZACIN CRISTALIZACIN CRISTALIZACIN CRISTALIZACIN (actualmente gran espacio con vestigios de los soportes) donde cristalizaba el sa- litre. Chacabuco tena un total de 240 bateas de cristalizacin con una capacidad de 6.600 metros cbicos. Chimenea y, al fondo, Maestranza. Tnel de caldera y parte de la chimenea. Descarga de caliche en el Buzn para su molienda. Estado actual de la zona de muelles de secado y de bateas de cristalizacin del salitre. Muelle de secado y Teatro de Chacabuco. duos de la industria era la extraccin del duos de la industria era la extraccin del duos de la industria era la extraccin del duos de la industria era la extraccin del duos de la industria era la extraccin del caliche caliche caliche caliche caliche, materia prima del salitre, , materia prima del salitre, , materia prima del salitre, , materia prima del salitre, , materia prima del salitre, tarea que era realizada en plena pampa por los tarea que era realizada en plena pampa por los tarea que era realizada en plena pampa por los tarea que era realizada en plena pampa por los tarea que era realizada en plena pampa por los particulares particulares particulares particulares particulares, quienes vestan , quienes vestan , quienes vestan , quienes vestan , quienes vestan ropas fabricadas con bolsas de harina de algodn blanco, llamadas cotonas. ropas fabricadas con bolsas de harina de algodn blanco, llamadas cotonas. ropas fabricadas con bolsas de harina de algodn blanco, llamadas cotonas. ropas fabricadas con bolsas de harina de algodn blanco, llamadas cotonas. ropas fabricadas con bolsas de harina de algodn blanco, llamadas cotonas. Empleados Superiores de Chacabuco en el Rancho, c.1930. atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 15 El caldo que no cristalizaba en las bateas era empleado en la pro- duccin de sales, como yodo y brax. Esta labor se efectuaba en la CASA DE YODO CASA DE YODO CASA DE YODO CASA DE YODO CASA DE YODO ubicada al Este de la planta, de ella actual- mente slo queda la bveda de mampostera de piedra, donde se guardaban los barriles de yodo, y parte del horno de ladrillos. El salitre era llevado a travs de alguno de los 12 Muelles, de 73 metros de largo cada uno cons- truidos en pino oregn, a la CAN- CAN- CAN- CAN- CAN- CHA DE SECADO CHA DE SECADO CHA DE SECADO CHA DE SECADO CHA DE SECADO. En esta gran cancha el salitre perda la hume- dad que an contena. Una vez seco era envasado en sacos de yute de un quintal espa- ol (46 kilos) y trasladado, por tren, al puerto de Antofagasta o al de Mejillones para su posterior venta en los mercados internacio- nales. Para finalizar este circuito sugeri- do regrese al lado Norte de la Plaza, donde se encontraban las Viviendas de Empleados Viviendas de Empleados Viviendas de Empleados Viviendas de Empleados Viviendas de Empleados, cons- truidas en adobe y bloques de ce- mento, con techos de metal. Ac- tualmente, muestran fracturas sig- nificativas y destrozos, sin huellas de glorietas ni rastros del alhaja- miento que alguna vez tuvieron. Luego camine por calle Coquim- bo hacia el Este y llegar a la seal Para apagar los incendios en las canchas de salitre, deba recurrirse slo a las Para apagar los incendios en las canchas de salitre, deba recurrirse slo a las Para apagar los incendios en las canchas de salitre, deba recurrirse slo a las Para apagar los incendios en las canchas de salitre, deba recurrirse slo a las Para apagar los incendios en las canchas de salitre, deba recurrirse slo a las aguas viejas, es decir, a aquellas que ya haban sido utilizadas en el proce- aguas viejas, es decir, a aquellas que ya haban sido utilizadas en el proce- aguas viejas, es decir, a aquellas que ya haban sido utilizadas en el proce- aguas viejas, es decir, a aquellas que ya haban sido utilizadas en el proce- aguas viejas, es decir, a aquellas que ya haban sido utilizadas en el proce- so de elaboracin del salitre y que contaban con alguna cantidad de minera- so de elaboracin del salitre y que contaban con alguna cantidad de minera- so de elaboracin del salitre y que contaban con alguna cantidad de minera- so de elaboracin del salitre y que contaban con alguna cantidad de minera- so de elaboracin del salitre y que contaban con alguna cantidad de minera- les. Cualquiera otra agua slo aumentaba la combustin. les. Cualquiera otra agua slo aumentaba la combustin. les. Cualquiera otra agua slo aumentaba la combustin. les. Cualquiera otra agua slo aumentaba la combustin. les. Cualquiera otra agua slo aumentaba la combustin. EMPLEADOS SUPERIORES Esta rea comprenda el edificio Esta rea comprenda el edificio Esta rea comprenda el edificio Esta rea comprenda el edificio Esta rea comprenda el edificio del Club de Empleados, llamado del Club de Empleados, llamado del Club de Empleados, llamado del Club de Empleados, llamado del Club de Empleados, llamado comnmente Rancho, con dos comnmente Rancho, con dos comnmente Rancho, con dos comnmente Rancho, con dos comnmente Rancho, con dos canchas de tenis en su frontis. Le canchas de tenis en su frontis. Le canchas de tenis en su frontis. Le canchas de tenis en su frontis. Le canchas de tenis en su frontis. Le segua a continuacin el chalet segua a continuacin el chalet segua a continuacin el chalet segua a continuacin el chalet segua a continuacin el chalet del Inspector General de Ofi- del Inspector General de Ofi- del Inspector General de Ofi- del Inspector General de Ofi- del Inspector General de Ofi- cinas Salitreras y las viviendas del cinas Salitreras y las viviendas del cinas Salitreras y las viviendas del cinas Salitreras y las viviendas del cinas Salitreras y las viviendas del Administrador y de los Emplea- Administrador y de los Emplea- Administrador y de los Emplea- Administrador y de los Emplea- Administrador y de los Emplea- dos Superiores. Esta calle, llama- dos Superiores. Esta calle, llama- dos Superiores. Esta calle, llama- dos Superiores. Esta calle, llama- dos Superiores. Esta calle, llama- da Coquimbo y con 800 mt. de da Coquimbo y con 800 mt. de da Coquimbo y con 800 mt. de da Coquimbo y con 800 mt. de da Coquimbo y con 800 mt. de longitud, es la ms larga de Cha- longitud, es la ms larga de Cha- longitud, es la ms larga de Cha- longitud, es la ms larga de Cha- longitud, es la ms larga de Cha- cabuco y se extiende en sentido cabuco y se extiende en sentido cabuco y se extiende en sentido cabuco y se extiende en sentido cabuco y se extiende en sentido Este a Oeste. Este a Oeste. Este a Oeste. Este a Oeste. Este a Oeste. El Club de Empleados (13) Club de Empleados (13) Club de Empleados (13) Club de Empleados (13) Club de Empleados (13) o Rancho era una construccin de un piso que contaba con 3.400 metros cuadrados construi- dos. Sus muros eran de adobe, sus pisos de baldosas y madera, el techo de madera y fierro galvani- zado con una gran chimenea en su entrada. En este espacio se dis- tribuan 26 habitaciones para em- pleados superiores, comedor, sa- la de billar y sala de lectura, entre otras dependencias. En la misma calle Coquimbo, ms hacia el Este, se ubicaban las Viviendas de Empleados Supe- Viviendas de Empleados Supe- Viviendas de Empleados Supe- Viviendas de Empleados Supe- Viviendas de Empleados Supe- riores (14) riores (14) riores (14) riores (14) riores (14) y, en medio de ellas, el Chalet del Administrador (15), Chalet del Administrador (15), Chalet del Administrador (15), Chalet del Administrador (15), Chalet del Administrador (15), que se distingua por su doble techumbre construida con caa de Guayaquil, su tamao, termi- naciones, pasillos exteriores y la existencia de garage privado. Cancha de secado con salitre. atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 16 ENGLISH In the middle of the dry Atacama desert and 95 Km. to the Northeast of Antofagasta port stands the former Chacabuco Nitrate Office, declared a National Monument in 1971 due to its outstanding heri- tage significance. Built in 1922 and operating under a state-of-the-art production sys- tem, Chacabuco came to house a population of more than 5,000 people. They, along with the rest of the inhabitants of the many surrounding nitrate offices, gave birth to the singular Pampas Cul- ture, which had its peak in the first half of the 20 th . Century. At this place visitors will be able to tour the urban layout of one of the best preserved nitrate offices in the country, as well as to appre- ciate many remains and traces evocative of the work and way of living of these men and their families in one of the harshest environments in the world. Within the framework of its Heritage Route program, the Ministry of National Properties has undertaken the publication of this topoguide and the installation in Chacabuco of a series of signs carefully designed to produce the minimum possible impact. Along with enhancing the value of this national heritage, both guide and signs will provide visitors with all the required information to make their tour a rewarding experience. Together with fostering the public appreciation of this historic place, this initiative has contributed to the generation of a site museum which will allow us to protect this cultural legacy for future generations. Within the program Great Territories, New Opportunities and in order to finance restoration works on the main installations and pro- vide visitors with a good service, the Ministry of National Properties will soon offer the administration of this public property in a long-term concession. The Heritage Routes program aims to promote and facilitate citizens knowledge and enjoyment of the national territory and different lo- cal cultures. It is a means to contribute to the development and in- fluence of local identities in a world of an ever growing globalization. The program also fosters the development and diversification of small and medium concerns at a local and regional level, supports sustai- nable tourism and, at the same time, widens and improves the alter- natives regarding peoples use of their free time. In synthesis, this is a new invitation from the Ministry of National Pro- perties to get to know Chile on foot. Jaime Ravinet De la Fuente Jaime Ravinet De la Fuente Jaime Ravinet De la Fuente Jaime Ravinet De la Fuente Jaime Ravinet De la Fuente Minister of Housing, Urban Planning and National Properties atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 17 Partial view of the Exhibition Nitrate Heritage: Memory of the Norte Grande, set up by the Ministry of National Properties in Chacabucos Theater and Library. August 14, 1927 / FOOTBALL AND TENNIS: The August 14, 1927 / FOOTBALL AND TENNIS: The August 14, 1927 / FOOTBALL AND TENNIS: The August 14, 1927 / FOOTBALL AND TENNIS: The August 14, 1927 / FOOTBALL AND TENNIS: The Ferrocarril de Antofagasta Ferrocarril de Antofagasta Ferrocarril de Antofagasta Ferrocarril de Antofagasta Ferrocarril de Antofagasta Football Team, scheduled to play a match with this offices employees, arri- Football Team, scheduled to play a match with this offices employees, arri- Football Team, scheduled to play a match with this offices employees, arri- Football Team, scheduled to play a match with this offices employees, arri- Football Team, scheduled to play a match with this offices employees, arri- ved by night train. Our home team won in both football and tennis. A large ved by night train. Our home team won in both football and tennis. A large ved by night train. Our home team won in both football and tennis. A large ved by night train. Our home team won in both football and tennis. A large ved by night train. Our home team won in both football and tennis. A large ABOUT THE TOPOGUIDE This topoguide is a comple- ment to the Sign System installed in the former Chacabuco Nitrate Office. This is the second pedes- trian Heritage Route implemented by the Ministry of National Pro- perties, particularly in relation to cultural trails. It is intended to enhance the value of this Historical Monument, through the understanding of the nitrate production system, its eve- ryday life and its recent history. After the description on how to use this topoguide, you will find information arranged in two blocks. The first deals with the history of the Chacabuco Nitrate Office The second details the cir- cuit of this Heritage Route, which includes a tour of its most outstan- ding features. SIGN SYSTEM The sign system comprises a Ge- neral Map of the former Chaca- buco Nitrate Office, plus eight signs located at strategic points. These signs provide a brief des- cription of the area in which they stand. Each sign is identified by a name and a number ranging from 1 to 8. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS Direction of the circuit The visit of this Heritage Route has been structured as a sequence starting at the General Map of the Chacabuco Nitrate Office located in the Main Square. However, you are welcome to choose and devise a circuit of your own based on your interests and available time. We recommend you to res- trict your tour to the interior rather than the exterior of the site. In order to make your visit easier, the circuit has been organized on the basis of the cardinal points and historical names of the streets, as shown in the General Map provided inside the unfolding ja- cket of this topoguide. Duration of the circuit The entire circuit lasts approxima- tely 90 minutes. Suggestion We recommend you comple- ment this circuit with a visit to the permanent exhibition Nitrate Nitrate Nitrate Nitrate Nitrate Heritage: Memory of the Norte Heritage: Memory of the Norte Heritage: Memory of the Norte Heritage: Memory of the Norte Heritage: Memory of the Norte Grande, Grande, Grande, Grande, Grande, located in the second and third floors of the Chacabuco Theater. This exhibition was set up and inaugurated by the Minis- try of National Properties on May 2001, on the occasion of the ce- lebration of the Chiles Cultural Heritage Day. atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 18 Mejillones Ports nitrate pier. Manager, employees and workers of the Bellavista Office. Masquerade at Coya Office ,1913. number of people attended the match. In the evening they were invited to number of people attended the match. In the evening they were invited to number of people attended the match. In the evening they were invited to number of people attended the match. In the evening they were invited to number of people attended the match. In the evening they were invited to the Lautaro Club where order prevailed. the Lautaro Club where order prevailed. the Lautaro Club where order prevailed. the Lautaro Club where order prevailed. the Lautaro Club where order prevailed. FROM THE WATCHMENS LOGBOOK FROM THE WATCHMENS LOGBOOK FROM THE WATCHMENS LOGBOOK FROM THE WATCHMENS LOGBOOK FROM THE WATCHMENS LOGBOOK GENERAL BACKGROUND The nitrate industry The Chacabuco Nitrate Office The Nitrate Offices came into being to produce nitrate, a natu- ral fertilizer which started to be massively used in agriculture du- ring the mid 19th century, to im- prove the yield and quality of agricultural products. Although the knowledge of nitrate proper- ties goes back to pre-Columbian times, for a long time it was con- sidered only as a raw material for the manufacture of gunpowder. The development of the nitrate industry is paramount to the his- tory of Chiles Norte Grande. Furthermore, it was one of the main causes of the Pacific or Ni- trate War between Chile, Peru and Bolivia. For Chile, this con- flict meant a significant growth in both economic and territorial terms. In fact, before 1879 the country extended only to the 25 th parallel, near the town of Paposo, which presently corresponds to the southern limit of the 2 nd Re- gion of Antofagasta. Among other things, this growth translated into the development of the so-called Pampas Culture, whose traditions remain very much alive and present up to this day. The origin of this culture can be found in the trades generated by the industry, the special lan- guage born from the different ty- pes of work, and the social life and solidarity of those who dwelt in these city-factories. The Nitrate Offices, particularly the large and modern ones such as Chacabuco (1922) and later Maria Elena (1926), Pedro de Valdivia (1931) and Victoria (1944), had an infrastructure which allowed them to enjoy the necessary independence and autonomy to develop all aspects of life in an environment as harsh as that of the desert. Starting from atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 19 Construction of Pedro de Valdivia Office,1931. Social dances were held in the Concert Hall building on the following dates: Social dances were held in the Concert Hall building on the following dates: Social dances were held in the Concert Hall building on the following dates: Social dances were held in the Concert Hall building on the following dates: Social dances were held in the Concert Hall building on the following dates: January 1, May 1 and 21, August 15, September 18 and 19, October 12 and January 1, May 1 and 21, August 15, September 18 and 19, October 12 and January 1, May 1 and 21, August 15, September 18 and 19, October 12 and January 1, May 1 and 21, August 15, September 18 and 19, October 12 and January 1, May 1 and 21, August 15, September 18 and 19, October 12 and December 25. Both employees and workers participated. On such occasions December 25. Both employees and workers participated. On such occasions December 25. Both employees and workers participated. On such occasions December 25. Both employees and workers participated. On such occasions December 25. Both employees and workers participated. On such occasions 1 9 2 4 , their workers also enjoyed greater guarantees with regard to work and health conditions thanks to the passing of the Compulsory Insu- rance Law. In turn, the nitrate entrepreneurs, through their administrators and employees, conducted the nitra- te offices work on the basis of an iron-like discipline. This discipli- ne, however, was tinted with a positive discrimination in favor of the family. Thus, the wages for the same work were higher for a ma- rried worker than for a single one. In time, the prosperous nitrate in- dustry, begun around 1830, suffe- red severe set backs, first through the invention of synthetic nitrate (Germany, 1914), and then through the successive econo- mic crises and wars the world su- ffered in the first half of the 20 th century. The Chacabuco Nitrate Office was built at a cost of one million pounds sterling between the years 1922 and 1924, on the sites for- merly occupied by the Lastenia Nitrate Office. It was inaugurated in 1924 and closed definitively in 1940. Its owner was the Anglo Nitrate Company Ltd., a British firm later called the Anglo Lautaro Nitrate Company, which was re- presented in Antofagasta by Babu- rizza, Lukinovic & Co. Chacabuco was the last Nitrate Office which used the Shanks production system. This office was also notable for its large size, production capacity (150,000 metric tons of nitrate and 92,200 kilograms of iodine a year) and the quality of its industrial insta- llations and living quarters. Du- ring its period of greatest activity, it produced 15,000 metric tons of nitrate a month and housed a population of around 5,000 peo- ple. Although the Chacabuco Nitrate Office closed in 1940, its owners kept it for some years hoping for a reactivation of the industry. However, the office began to be dismantled in about 1945 once this possibility was discarded. In 1968 the Anglo Lautaro Nitra- te Company sold the Chacabuco Nitrate Office to the Sociedad Qumica y Minera de Chile - SOQUIMICH (Chemical & Mi- ning Co. of Chile), which owned this property until 1972, when it atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 20 Crystallization troughs, drying bays and main square of the Chacabuco Nitrate Office, c. 1930. a worker could invite a higher employees daughter to dance, or a society a worker could invite a higher employees daughter to dance, or a society a worker could invite a higher employees daughter to dance, or a society a worker could invite a higher employees daughter to dance, or a society a worker could invite a higher employees daughter to dance, or a society lady could dance with a especially good dancer belonging to a lower class. lady could dance with a especially good dancer belonging to a lower class. lady could dance with a especially good dancer belonging to a lower class. lady could dance with a especially good dancer belonging to a lower class. lady could dance with a especially good dancer belonging to a lower class. These occasions were known as Day of Free Thinking. These occasions were known as Day of Free Thinking. These occasions were known as Day of Free Thinking. These occasions were known as Day of Free Thinking. These occasions were known as Day of Free Thinking. was occupied by the Armed For- ces. The Chacabuco Nitrate Office was declared a National Historic Monument in 1971. This measu- re aimed at the preservation of this outstanding living testimony of the industrial exploitation of nitra- te in Chile, as well as of the style of life of the time. For this reason some works were undertaken between 1971 and 1973. They included the restora- tion, conservation, arrangement and cleaning of the office in order to transform it into both a site museum and a research and re- cord center. Immediately after the military coup of September 11, 1973, and until 1974, the Armed Forces star- ted using the Chacabuco Nitrate Office as a detention center and camp for political prisoners. Towards the end of the 80s the Chacabuco Nitrate Office was in a general state of deterioration. By that time, the industrial sector had been dismantled, some roofs and timbers had disappeared and the church had been destroyed by fire. This situation was partly re- versed thanks to a contribution from the German Government t hr oug h t h e Go e t h e Institute in Sant i ago and certain Chilean institutions, which ena- bled the restoration of the Theater in 1992. Since 1990 onwards, the State of Chile, through the Ministry of National Properties, exerts tuition and domain over the Chacabuco Nitrate Office. CHACABUCO NITRATE OFFICE HERITAGE ROUTE To start your visit, please enter through the clearly identified gate. To your right you will find the Reception, located in the premi- ses formerly used by the Chaca- buco Nitrate Offices gardener. From here, follow the same en- trance street up to Coquimbo Street, then turn right and walk up to the Main Square, a landmark already visible from this point. On the North side of the square you will find the sign displaying the Nitrate Office General Map. This map will give you a general no- tion of the sites distribution and the location of the circuits most atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 21 The restored Chacabuco Theater, 1992. Chacabuco Theater , c.1929. Chacabuco Theaters entrance, c.1929. Chacabuco Theater at present. June 22, 1927 / PRECAUTIONARY MEASURE: The engine drivers of the con- June 22, 1927 / PRECAUTIONARY MEASURE: The engine drivers of the con- June 22, 1927 / PRECAUTIONARY MEASURE: The engine drivers of the con- June 22, 1927 / PRECAUTIONARY MEASURE: The engine drivers of the con- June 22, 1927 / PRECAUTIONARY MEASURE: The engine drivers of the con- voy carrying nitrate from Amelia or Puelma and passing by the entrance voy carrying nitrate from Amelia or Puelma and passing by the entrance voy carrying nitrate from Amelia or Puelma and passing by the entrance voy carrying nitrate from Amelia or Puelma and passing by the entrance voy carrying nitrate from Amelia or Puelma and passing by the entrance outstanding points. Once acquainted with the loca- tions shown in the General Map, walk towards the West where you will find URBAN CENTER With its four sides well diffe- With its four sides well diffe- With its four sides well diffe- With its four sides well diffe- With its four sides well diffe- rentiated, the Main Square was rentiated, the Main Square was rentiated, the Main Square was rentiated, the Main Square was rentiated, the Main Square was the social and industrial meeting the social and industrial meeting the social and industrial meeting the social and industrial meeting the social and industrial meeting point of the nitrate office. On the point of the nitrate office. On the point of the nitrate office. On the point of the nitrate office. On the point of the nitrate office. On the West side, at the start of the West side, at the start of the West side, at the start of the West side, at the start of the West side, at the start of the workers camp, stood the workers camp, stood the workers camp, stood the workers camp, stood the workers camp, stood the School, the Concert Hall and the School, the Concert Hall and the School, the Concert Hall and the School, the Concert Hall and the School, the Concert Hall and the Theater with the Library in the Theater with the Library in the Theater with the Library in the Theater with the Library in the Theater with the Library in the third floor. The Administration third floor. The Administration third floor. The Administration third floor. The Administration third floor. The Administration and Machine Shop were located and Machine Shop were located and Machine Shop were located and Machine Shop were located and Machine Shop were located on the South side; on the East on the South side; on the East on the South side; on the East on the South side; on the East on the South side; on the East stood the loading bays and ni- stood the loading bays and ni- stood the loading bays and ni- stood the loading bays and ni- stood the loading bays and ni- trate drying field and, on the trate drying field and, on the trate drying field and, on the trate drying field and, on the trate drying field and, on the North, the Employees Houses. North, the Employees Houses. North, the Employees Houses. North, the Employees Houses. North, the Employees Houses. The Main Square (0) Main Square (0) Main Square (0) Main Square (0) Main Square (0) is a perfect 50 x 50 square meters, standing within a 100 x 100 meters area. The square constituted the core of the Nitrate Office and was con- ceived as a green area for recrea- tional and social meeting purpo- ses. A gazebo stood in the middle of the square, which also had promenades furnished with ben- ches, Pepper trees and ornamen- tal plants. The School (1) School (1) School (1) School (1) School (1) provided primary education (1 st to 6 th grade) and was divided into two areas, one for girls and one for boys, with an average of 200 students in each. The school had 10 classrooms and was run by State-recognized teachers. The Concert Hall (2) Concert Hall (2) Concert Hall (2) Concert Hall (2) Concert Hall (2) was a buil- ding with room for 200 people for social meetings and dances. It had separate restrooms for men and women, as well as a recrea- tion room for playing billiard, card games, dominoes, table ten- nis, etc. The Theater and Library (3) Theater and Library (3) Theater and Library (3) Theater and Library (3) Theater and Library (3), a large 750 square meters building, remarkable for its height and construction, could hold an au- dience of 1,200 people (700 in the balcony, 100 in the dress cir- cle, 300 in the orchestra and 100 in box seats). Looking at the faa- de it is possible to see the porch and access hall (first and second floors) and the library and reading room (second and third floors). atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 22 General view of the Nitrate Office from the Theater. to Valparaiso Street should be warned to drive carefully since there are many to Valparaiso Street should be warned to drive carefully since there are many to Valparaiso Street should be warned to drive carefully since there are many to Valparaiso Street should be warned to drive carefully since there are many to Valparaiso Street should be warned to drive carefully since there are many small children in the vicinity. small children in the vicinity. small children in the vicinity. small children in the vicinity. small children in the vicinity. FROM THE WATCHMENS LOGBOOK FROM THE WATCHMENS LOGBOOK FROM THE WATCHMENS LOGBOOK FROM THE WATCHMENS LOGBOOK FROM THE WATCHMENS LOGBOOK Please continue your visit walking along Lynch street towards the North, to enter the section that between 1973 and 1974 was used as a Political Prisoners Political Prisoners Political Prisoners Political Prisoners Political Prisoners Camp. Camp. Camp. Camp. Camp. On the Northwest corner of Lynch and Coquimbo Streets, an old workers house was reused as the general store of the Political Prisoners Camp. The store was organized by a group of prisoners who contributed 300 Escudos (the national currency of the time) each to its support. It was also ba- cked by the prisoners relatives and by the Vicara de la Solidari- dad (Solidarity Vicariate), a Chi- lean institution which cooperated with and assisted the families of political prisoners and missing people during the Military Regi- me. This general store, called Pulpera by the prisoners (the name used at the time of the nitra Continuing up to the intersection with Antofagasta Street you reach the Camps so-called civic neigh- borhood, where you will find POLITICAL PRISONERS In this section, enclosed by bar- In this section, enclosed by bar- In this section, enclosed by bar- In this section, enclosed by bar- In this section, enclosed by bar- bed wire, land mines and watch bed wire, land mines and watch bed wire, land mines and watch bed wire, land mines and watch bed wire, land mines and watch towers, more than 1,800 men towers, more than 1,800 men towers, more than 1,800 men towers, more than 1,800 men towers, more than 1,800 men from all over the country and of from all over the country and of from all over the country and of from all over the country and of from all over the country and of different social classes, ages, different social classes, ages, different social classes, ages, different social classes, ages, different social classes, ages, occupations and professions occupations and professions occupations and professions occupations and professions occupations and professions were imprisoned between 1973 were imprisoned between 1973 were imprisoned between 1973 were imprisoned between 1973 were imprisoned between 1973 and 1974. Under arrest and and 1974. Under arrest and and 1974. Under arrest and and 1974. Under arrest and and 1974. Under arrest and isolated from the rest of the isolated from the rest of the isolated from the rest of the isolated from the rest of the isolated from the rest of the world, these prisoners gave new world, these prisoners gave new world, these prisoners gave new world, these prisoners gave new world, these prisoners gave new life to this place. They created an life to this place. They created an life to this place. They created an life to this place. They created an life to this place. They created an organized detention camp, with organized detention camp, with organized detention camp, with organized detention camp, with organized detention camp, with a Council of Elders, School, a Council of Elders, School, a Council of Elders, School, a Council of Elders, School, a Council of Elders, School, Library, Churches, Theater and Library, Churches, Theater and Library, Churches, Theater and Library, Churches, Theater and Library, Churches, Theater and Health Center. Health Center. Health Center. Health Center. Health Center. On the Northwest corner of Lynch and Antofagasta Streets -and in a South-North direction- the political prisoners located the following buildings: the Post Offi- ce, the Theater, the Council of Elders and the Health Center. The Council of Elders was anasso- ciation formed by a representati- ve of each block. It was created to te industry), sold all sorts of goods; fresh and canned fruits and vege- tables, cigarettes, milk, mineral water and beverages, etc. Keep walking towards the North along Lynch Street and you will cross Atacama Street, renamed by the prisoners Karl Marx Avenue. atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 23 Current faade of the Chacabuco Hospital. Patio of the Nitrate Offices Hospital. Diploma awarded in 1974 to Jorge Montealegre, former (Chacabuco) political prisoner in Chacabuco. Drawing by Adam Policzer, former Chacabuco political prisoner, made while imprisoned. August 19, 1927 / BREAD DELIVERYMEN: The two bread deliverymen have August 19, 1927 / BREAD DELIVERYMEN: The two bread deliverymen have August 19, 1927 / BREAD DELIVERYMEN: The two bread deliverymen have August 19, 1927 / BREAD DELIVERYMEN: The two bread deliverymen have August 19, 1927 / BREAD DELIVERYMEN: The two bread deliverymen have been repeatedly told not to leave the animals beside the bread carts because been repeatedly told not to leave the animals beside the bread carts because been repeatedly told not to leave the animals beside the bread carts because been repeatedly told not to leave the animals beside the bread carts because been repeatedly told not to leave the animals beside the bread carts because the said animals relieve themselves near the bread baskets. However, these men the said animals relieve themselves near the bread baskets. However, these men the said animals relieve themselves near the bread baskets. However, these men the said animals relieve themselves near the bread baskets. However, these men the said animals relieve themselves near the bread baskets. However, these men conduct the prisoners relations with the military. The Council was in charge of deciding impor- tant matters regarding the well being of the prisoners and of making proposals for the smooth operation of the Political Priso- ners Camp. The Health Center, run by imprisoned doctors, provi- ded medical and dental assistan- ce to all the prisoners and, more than once, to the military in char- ge of their custody. On the opposite Northeast cor- ner, and in a North-South direc- tion, the prisoners placed their School and Library. The School became an educatio- nal center offering a wide variety of courses given by inmate tea- chers and professors. This allo- wed prisoners who had been unable to finish regular school to enhance their education and tho- se who had finished school to explore new subjects. The Library arranged on a bunk bed in one of the bedrooms gathered a small collection of books which kept growing in the course of time. Now return to sign number 2 Political Prisoners. To the East, at the end of Antofagasta Street, stood the Hospital and Materni- Hospital and Materni- Hospital and Materni- Hospital and Materni- Hospital and Materni- ty Clinic (4) ty Clinic (4) ty Clinic (4) ty Clinic (4) ty Clinic (4) of the Chacabuco Ni- trate Office. The same premises were used as a military hospital during the political prisoners in- ternment. Now, walk along Antofagasta Street and on reaching Bulnes Street turn left and walk towards the South. Inside the fourth door on the right you will find a giant wall relief depicting the houses and church of the Chacabuco Nitrate Office, made by the poli- tical prisoners using mixed tech- niques. To continue the circuit, resume your walk along Antofagasta Street towards the West up to the intersection with Aldea Street, where you will find sign atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 24 Chacabuco Basketball team, c.1930. have paid no attention, for which reason they have been notified that ano- have paid no attention, for which reason they have been notified that ano- have paid no attention, for which reason they have been notified that ano- have paid no attention, for which reason they have been notified that ano- have paid no attention, for which reason they have been notified that ano- ther breach of this order will mean they will be prohibited from entering their ther breach of this order will mean they will be prohibited from entering their ther breach of this order will mean they will be prohibited from entering their ther breach of this order will mean they will be prohibited from entering their ther breach of this order will mean they will be prohibited from entering their carts and will only be authorized to sell their bread from baskets. carts and will only be authorized to sell their bread from baskets. carts and will only be authorized to sell their bread from baskets. carts and will only be authorized to sell their bread from baskets. carts and will only be authorized to sell their bread from baskets. FROM THE WATCHMENS LOGBOOK FROM THE WATCHMENS LOGBOOK FROM THE WATCHMENS LOGBOOK FROM THE WATCHMENS LOGBOOK FROM THE WATCHMENS LOGBOOK SPORTS FIELDS Sports were an important pastime Sports were an important pastime Sports were an important pastime Sports were an important pastime Sports were an important pastime in the life of the nitrate offices in the life of the nitrate offices in the life of the nitrate offices in the life of the nitrate offices in the life of the nitrate offices workers, as well as for the political workers, as well as for the political workers, as well as for the political workers, as well as for the political workers, as well as for the political prisoners of 1973-1974. For this prisoners of 1973-1974. For this prisoners of 1973-1974. For this prisoners of 1973-1974. For this prisoners of 1973-1974. For this reason some football pitches (and reason some football pitches (and reason some football pitches (and reason some football pitches (and reason some football pitches (and tennis courts for employees only) tennis courts for employees only) tennis courts for employees only) tennis courts for employees only) tennis courts for employees only) were laid out. Surrounding these were laid out. Surrounding these were laid out. Surrounding these were laid out. Surrounding these were laid out. Surrounding these were the 904 houses of the were the 904 houses of the were the 904 houses of the were the 904 houses of the were the 904 houses of the workers camp (654 houses for workers camp (654 houses for workers camp (654 houses for workers camp (654 houses for workers camp (654 houses for married workers and 250 rooms married workers and 250 rooms married workers and 250 rooms married workers and 250 rooms married workers and 250 rooms for bachelors). for bachelors). for bachelors). for bachelors). for bachelors). At the time of the Nitrate Office, these Sports Fields Sports Fields Sports Fields Sports Fields Sports Fields were used to encourage the practice of football, baby football, basketball and vol- leyball, among other sports. When the Office served as a de- tention camp, the field on the West side was the place where the prisoners lined up every day in a U formation, arranged by blocks, in order to be counted and to raise the Chilean flag and sing the National Anthem. On the Northeast corner of Anto- fagasta and Serrano Streets stands the house which the prisoners transformed into a Catholic Church. This building, ornamen- ted with scenes of the Bible painted on its walls, beca- me a refuge for many faithful pri- soners. This was the place where they could worship and celebra- te mass. On the Southwest cor- ner, diagonally opposite to the former stood the Evangelical Church. Return to sign number 3 Sports Fields, on the corner of Aldea and Antofagasta Streets, and walk towards the South. In Aldea Street, between Atacama and Co- quimbo Streets and on the West sidewalk, you will find the Public Public Public Public Public Restrooms and Swimming Pool Restrooms and Swimming Pool Restrooms and Swimming Pool Restrooms and Swimming Pool Restrooms and Swimming Pool (5) (5) (5) (5) (5) of the Chacabuco Nitrate Offi- ce. The restrooms were separated by gender and could accommo- date 57 people. In the middle was the swimming pool consisting of a 10 x 8 meters pool, 2 meters in depth. In front, on the East sidewalk and on the corner with Atacama Street, stood the Laundry and Laundry and Laundry and Laundry and Laundry and Gymnasium (6). Gymnasium (6). Gymnasium (6). Gymnasium (6). Gymnasium (6). The latter, with a wooden floor, included a Bo- xing ring and was used by the po- litical prisoners as a workshop atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 25 Single workers quarters. Children used to play a game similar to baseball with balls made of old stockings Children used to play a game similar to baseball with balls made of old stockings Children used to play a game similar to baseball with balls made of old stockings Children used to play a game similar to baseball with balls made of old stockings Children used to play a game similar to baseball with balls made of old stockings which they hit with their fists. They also played games with marbles (chita y which they hit with their fists. They also played games with marbles (chita y which they hit with their fists. They also played games with marbles (chita y which they hit with their fists. They also played games with marbles (chita y which they hit with their fists. They also played games with marbles (chita y cuarta, troyana, etc.) and collected packs of cigarettes, each of them ha- cuarta, troyana, etc.) and collected packs of cigarettes, each of them ha- cuarta, troyana, etc.) and collected packs of cigarettes, each of them ha- cuarta, troyana, etc.) and collected packs of cigarettes, each of them ha- cuarta, troyana, etc.) and collected packs of cigarettes, each of them ha- and performance area for their theatrical shows held on Sundays. Beside these premises, on Uribe Street, the prisoners dinning rooms were set up. Finishing your visit to the Political Prisoners Camp, walk further South to the intersection of Aldea and Coquimbo Streets where you will find sign WORKERS CAMP The married workers houses The married workers houses The married workers houses The married workers houses The married workers houses had between 2 and 6 rooms, had between 2 and 6 rooms, had between 2 and 6 rooms, had between 2 and 6 rooms, had between 2 and 6 rooms, plus a kitchen and a patio. The plus a kitchen and a patio. The plus a kitchen and a patio. The plus a kitchen and a patio. The plus a kitchen and a patio. The perimeter houses are notable for perimeter houses are notable for perimeter houses are notable for perimeter houses are notable for perimeter houses are notable for establishing an impressive bor- establishing an impressive bor- establishing an impressive bor- establishing an impressive bor- establishing an impressive bor- der with the desert. Part of this der with the desert. Part of this der with the desert. Part of this der with the desert. Part of this der with the desert. Part of this sort of fence is formed by the sort of fence is formed by the sort of fence is formed by the sort of fence is formed by the sort of fence is formed by the long row of 205 quarters for long row of 205 quarters for long row of 205 quarters for long row of 205 quarters for long row of 205 quarters for bachelors located to the South. bachelors located to the South. bachelors located to the South. bachelors located to the South. bachelors located to the South. The only available bathrooms The only available bathrooms The only available bathrooms The only available bathrooms The only available bathrooms were public and in each corner were public and in each corner were public and in each corner were public and in each corner were public and in each corner there were water basins for there were water basins for there were water basins for there were water basins for there were water basins for domestic use. The camp also had domestic use. The camp also had domestic use. The camp also had domestic use. The camp also had domestic use. The camp also had a swimming pool, a gymnasium a swimming pool, a gymnasium a swimming pool, a gymnasium a swimming pool, a gymnasium a swimming pool, a gymnasium and a laundry. and a laundry. and a laundry. and a laundry. and a laundry. The main thoroughfares of the Chacabuco Nitrate Office were Coquimbo Street and Valparaiso Avenue. Coquimbo Street was also the median or geometric line crossing the camp from one end to the other and dividing it into two equal halves. In turn, the ur- ban infrastructure was concentra- ted in Valparaiso Avenue. Walking along Coquimbo Street towards the East, and on the Southeast corner of Coquimbo and Uribe Streets, you will be able to appreciate the offices of the Methodist League of the S. M. Iglesia Metodista Episcopal (Epis- copal Methodist Church). Heading West along Coquimbo Street to the end, you reach the boundary houses and find one of the Nitrate Offices entrances - currently blocked-, named tran- cas. The boundary houses were located at the North, South and West limits of the Workers Camp. They were terraced hou- ses whose joining walls formed a long uninterrupted wall, full of grace and simplicity due to its constant rhythm. This cadence results from the alternation of the gables triangular pediment and the horizontal wall which closes the patios, an element of a surpri- sing scenic effect. The married Workers Houses Workers Houses Workers Houses Workers Houses Workers Houses had electricity, yet lacked running water. They all had their entran- ces and windows oriented to- atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 26 Public Toilets. Football field. Single workers quarters on the West and South end of Chacabuco. Chacabuco, c.1930. Street of the Chacabuco Workers Camp. ving its own score. Girls played some traditional games like the casineta ving its own score. Girls played some traditional games like the casineta ving its own score. Girls played some traditional games like the casineta ving its own score. Girls played some traditional games like the casineta ving its own score. Girls played some traditional games like the casineta or payaya, as well as with dolls and skipping ropes. The employees and or payaya, as well as with dolls and skipping ropes. The employees and or payaya, as well as with dolls and skipping ropes. The employees and or payaya, as well as with dolls and skipping ropes. The employees and or payaya, as well as with dolls and skipping ropes. The employees and workers children would often play together in the sports fields and participate workers children would often play together in the sports fields and participate workers children would often play together in the sports fields and participate workers children would often play together in the sports fields and participate workers children would often play together in the sports fields and participate in the artistic activities of the different unions. in the artistic activities of the different unions. in the artistic activities of the different unions. in the artistic activities of the different unions. in the artistic activities of the different unions. wards either the East or West, so the streets running in the same direction only had blind walls. Blocks measured 35 x 45 or 45 x 45 meters and were arranged in two blocks of houses separate by 3 meters-wide passages. These houses had a wooden structure, adobe walls, calamine roofs and compacted earth floors. Returning to sign # 4 Workers Camp and walking South along Aldea Street, on the Southeast corner of Aldea and Aconcagua Streets stood the Market (7) Market (7) Market (7) Market (7) Market (7) and, diagonally opposite it, on the Northeast corner, a branch of the Pulpera (General Store), whose faade still shows some original wall paintings. Public Toilets. atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 27 The Chacabuco Church in 1973. Chacabuco, c.1935. Food was rich in calories in order to compensate for the strenuous physical Food was rich in calories in order to compensate for the strenuous physical Food was rich in calories in order to compensate for the strenuous physical Food was rich in calories in order to compensate for the strenuous physical Food was rich in calories in order to compensate for the strenuous physical effort the work demanded. Breakfast consisted of big piece of bred accompa- effort the work demanded. Breakfast consisted of big piece of bred accompa- effort the work demanded. Breakfast consisted of big piece of bred accompa- effort the work demanded. Breakfast consisted of big piece of bred accompa- effort the work demanded. Breakfast consisted of big piece of bred accompa- Walking along Aldea Street to- wards the South you will reach sign VALPARAISO AVENUE Chacabuco had a population of Chacabuco had a population of Chacabuco had a population of Chacabuco had a population of Chacabuco had a population of 5,000 inhabitants, with this ave- 5,000 inhabitants, with this ave- 5,000 inhabitants, with this ave- 5,000 inhabitants, with this ave- 5,000 inhabitants, with this ave- nue forming one of the main ar- nue forming one of the main ar- nue forming one of the main ar- nue forming one of the main ar- nue forming one of the main ar- teries of the workers camp, teries of the workers camp, teries of the workers camp, teries of the workers camp, teries of the workers camp, where the most important daily where the most important daily where the most important daily where the most important daily where the most important daily activities took place. Here stood activities took place. Here stood activities took place. Here stood activities took place. Here stood activities took place. Here stood the Catholic Church (destroyed the Catholic Church (destroyed the Catholic Church (destroyed the Catholic Church (destroyed the Catholic Church (destroyed by fire in 1983), the Hotel, the by fire in 1983), the Hotel, the by fire in 1983), the Hotel, the by fire in 1983), the Hotel, the by fire in 1983), the Hotel, the Pulpera (General Store) and the Pulpera (General Store) and the Pulpera (General Store) and the Pulpera (General Store) and the Pulpera (General Store) and the Nitrate Offices Administration. Nitrate Offices Administration. Nitrate Offices Administration. Nitrate Offices Administration. Nitrate Offices Administration. In addition, this Avenue was In addition, this Avenue was In addition, this Avenue was In addition, this Avenue was In addition, this Avenue was crossed by the nitrate railway. crossed by the nitrate railway. crossed by the nitrate railway. crossed by the nitrate railway. crossed by the nitrate railway. Continuing along Aldea Street towards the South, at the far end you find a row of quarters for sin- gle workers which mark the limit of the workers camp. On the exterior, these 2.5 by 3 meters rooms form a wall lending conti- nuity to the Nitrate Offices boun- dary, while towards the interior its surface is broken by a long series of doors and windows. Returning towards the North up Valparaiso Avenue and then wal- king towards the East you find the walls of the Catholic Church (8) Catholic Church (8) Catholic Church (8) Catholic Church (8) Catholic Church (8). Due to its location far from the main square, this church constitu- tes an anomaly, with regard to the traditional Spanish urban pattern. The church consisted of a central nave and two lateral ones. The frontage showed a tower-faade and the access and nave were crowned by a square bell tower with a four sloped roof over which stood the cross. The main access had three double doors, while the accesses to the lateral naves, two meters further back from the central naves line, had narrower doors. Both doors and windows had ogee arches, so- mewhat evocative of the English style. If you keep on walking towards the East along Valparaiso Avenue, on your right you will find the Pulpera (9) Pulpera (9) Pulpera (9) Pulpera (9) Pulpera (9). The general store P h o t o :
A n t o n i o
L a r r e a atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 28 Ovens of the Chacabuco Bakery. A corridor of the Pulpera (General Store). Street of the Workers Camp, c.1930. nied by a steak, fried onions and two fried eggs, plus a 3/4 liters of tea. nied by a steak, fried onions and two fried eggs, plus a 3/4 liters of tea. nied by a steak, fried onions and two fried eggs, plus a 3/4 liters of tea. nied by a steak, fried onions and two fried eggs, plus a 3/4 liters of tea. nied by a steak, fried onions and two fried eggs, plus a 3/4 liters of tea. Lunch consisted of 20 ounces of toasted flour and 6 bunches of dry figs, Lunch consisted of 20 ounces of toasted flour and 6 bunches of dry figs, Lunch consisted of 20 ounces of toasted flour and 6 bunches of dry figs, Lunch consisted of 20 ounces of toasted flour and 6 bunches of dry figs, Lunch consisted of 20 ounces of toasted flour and 6 bunches of dry figs, while dinner included a bowl of beans cooked in fat, boiled maize and chili. while dinner included a bowl of beans cooked in fat, boiled maize and chili. while dinner included a bowl of beans cooked in fat, boiled maize and chili. while dinner included a bowl of beans cooked in fat, boiled maize and chili. while dinner included a bowl of beans cooked in fat, boiled maize and chili. was supplied by train and had its own special platform on its West faade for unloading provisions and materials. The Pulpera sold groceries, bread, meat, coal and fabrics, and provided the Nitrate Offices workers with all sorts of products. In addition, it was authorized to allow the daily ac- cess to the camp of vehicles with groceries, vegetables and bread. In front of the general store stood the Hotel (10) Hotel (10) Hotel (10) Hotel (10) Hotel (10) with the Cocinera and Fonda -places for feeding and accommodating workers-, which occupied the whole block. Walking further towards the East along Valparaiso Avenue, be- tween the Pulpera on your right and the Theater on your left, you arrive at the Southwest corner of the Main Square where there is sign PULPERIA AND ADMINISTRATION The Pulpera was the only ge- The Pulpera was the only ge- The Pulpera was the only ge- The Pulpera was the only ge- The Pulpera was the only ge- neral store where all the basic neral store where all the basic neral store where all the basic neral store where all the basic neral store where all the basic products for everyday life were products for everyday life were products for everyday life were products for everyday life were products for everyday life were sold. Thus, it constituted a sort of sold. Thus, it constituted a sort of sold. Thus, it constituted a sort of sold. Thus, it constituted a sort of sold. Thus, it constituted a sort of monopoly where the workers monopoly where the workers monopoly where the workers monopoly where the workers monopoly where the workers were obliged to make almost all were obliged to make almost all were obliged to make almost all were obliged to make almost all were obliged to make almost all their purchases. Unlike other their purchases. Unlike other their purchases. Unlike other their purchases. Unlike other their purchases. Unlike other nitrate offices, here transactions nitrate offices, here transactions nitrate offices, here transactions nitrate offices, here transactions nitrate offices, here transactions were made with money, not were made with money, not were made with money, not were made with money, not were made with money, not with tokens or vouchers. Beside with tokens or vouchers. Beside with tokens or vouchers. Beside with tokens or vouchers. Beside with tokens or vouchers. Beside the store stood the Adminis- the store stood the Adminis- the store stood the Adminis- the store stood the Adminis- the store stood the Adminis- tration, where Chacabucos in- tration, where Chacabucos in- tration, where Chacabucos in- tration, where Chacabucos in- tration, where Chacabucos in- dustrial activity was organized dustrial activity was organized dustrial activity was organized dustrial activity was organized dustrial activity was organized and managed. and managed. and managed. and managed. and managed. The Nitrate Offices leadership was concentrated in the Adminis- Adminis- Adminis- Adminis- Adminis- tration (11) tration (11) tration (11) tration (11) tration (11) or what we now call Management. This office was used by the administrator and some employees such as the sub- administrator, engineers, che- mists and laboratory technicians, the accountant and his assistants, social welfare chief and assistant, head of security and time keeper. The Welfare office was responsi- ble for the compliance with Social Laws, which included: sociabili- ty, sports and entertainments, mu- atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 29 Chacabucos Industrial Area. Un Nitrate offices never interrupted their operation, so they worked 24 hours a Nitrate offices never interrupted their operation, so they worked 24 hours a Nitrate offices never interrupted their operation, so they worked 24 hours a Nitrate offices never interrupted their operation, so they worked 24 hours a Nitrate offices never interrupted their operation, so they worked 24 hours a day divided by shifts. For the administrators, the most valued qualities of a day divided by shifts. For the administrators, the most valued qualities of a day divided by shifts. For the administrators, the most valued qualities of a day divided by shifts. For the administrators, the most valued qualities of a day divided by shifts. For the administrators, the most valued qualities of a worker was his muscular strength and resistance to fatigue. One of the indus- worker was his muscular strength and resistance to fatigue. One of the indus- worker was his muscular strength and resistance to fatigue. One of the indus- worker was his muscular strength and resistance to fatigue. One of the indus- worker was his muscular strength and resistance to fatigue. One of the indus- tual benefit societies, savings, ci- vil register service, mail and tele- graph service, private police, na- tional police or carabineros, fire brigades, religious services, health and hygiene, work acci- dents, complaints, cinema, contracts, elementary educa- tion, night school for workers and library. In order to learn about the Pro- duction System used in the Chacabuco Nitrate Office, please walk to the Southeast corner of the Square where you will reach sign PRODUCTION SYSTEM Chacabuco adopted the Chacabuco adopted the Chacabuco adopted the Chacabuco adopted the Chacabuco adopted the Shank System for the Shank System for the Shank System for the Shank System for the Shank System for the production of nitrate. The production of nitrate. The production of nitrate. The production of nitrate. The production of nitrate. The caliche caliche caliche caliche caliche (raw material) ex- (raw material) ex- (raw material) ex- (raw material) ex- (raw material) ex- tracted from the pampas tracted from the pampas tracted from the pampas tracted from the pampas tracted from the pampas was crushed and dissolved was crushed and dissolved was crushed and dissolved was crushed and dissolved was crushed and dissolved in water at very high tem- in water at very high tem- in water at very high tem- in water at very high tem- in water at very high tem- peratures. The resulting so- peratures. The resulting so- peratures. The resulting so- peratures. The resulting so- peratures. The resulting so- lution concentrated the ni- lution concentrated the ni- lution concentrated the ni- lution concentrated the ni- lution concentrated the ni- trate salt, which was crys- trate salt, which was crys- trate salt, which was crys- trate salt, which was crys- trate salt, which was crys- tallized by evaporation tallized by evaporation tallized by evaporation tallized by evaporation tallized by evaporation and then dried before and then dried before and then dried before and then dried before and then dried before being packed and trans- being packed and trans- being packed and trans- being packed and trans- being packed and trans- ported to the shipping ported to the shipping ported to the shipping ported to the shipping ported to the shipping ports. Iodine, a sub-pro- ports. Iodine, a sub-pro- ports. Iodine, a sub-pro- ports. Iodine, a sub-pro- ports. Iodine, a sub-pro- duct of this process, was duct of this process, was duct of this process, was duct of this process, was duct of this process, was contained in the liquid contained in the liquid contained in the liquid contained in the liquid contained in the liquid solution. solution. solution. solution. solution. From here, walk until reaching the Chimney (12) Chimney (12) Chimney (12) Chimney (12) Chimney (12), which is visi- ble from afar due to its 35 meters height. To the left of the chi- mney was the BOILER BOILER BOILER BOILER BOILER HOUSE HOUSE HOUSE HOUSE HOUSE where energy was produced, at first from fire- wood and coal and later from diesel. These boilers supplied the necessary steam for dissolving the nitra- te inside the cachuchos (iron tanks). Further to the left was the POWER HOUSE POWER HOUSE POWER HOUSE POWER HOUSE POWER HOUSE with the diesel machines, genera- tors and switchboards for producing and controlling electric power. Lastly, on the left of the latter stood the NITRATE WAREHOUSE. NITRATE WAREHOUSE. NITRATE WAREHOUSE. NITRATE WAREHOUSE. NITRATE WAREHOUSE. Now, walk towards the Southeast and cross under the tracks of the wagons which transported the steri- le material to the RUBBLE RUBBLE RUBBLE RUBBLE RUBBLE CAKE. CAKE. CAKE. CAKE. CAKE. A little further ahead, you will find the BUZN BUZN BUZN BUZN BUZN, a very deep concrete pit, where the caliche feeding the grinding machines through conveyor belts was stored. The caliche was gradually grinded in machines named CHANCADORAS CHANCADORAS CHANCADORAS CHANCADORAS CHANCADORAS orChan- chos (Grinders), until rea- ching the adequate size. The Chacabuco Nitrate Offi- ce had 8 primary and 4 se- condary grinders. atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 30 The Chimney and, on the background, the Workshops. Boilers tunnel and part of the chimney. Unloading of caliche into the Buzn for crushing. Present state of the nitrate drying bays and crystallization troughs area. Drying Bay and Chacabuco Theater. trys most exhausting works was the extraction of trys most exhausting works was the extraction of trys most exhausting works was the extraction of trys most exhausting works was the extraction of trys most exhausting works was the extraction of caliche caliche caliche caliche caliche, the nitrate raw , the nitrate raw , the nitrate raw , the nitrate raw , the nitrate raw material. This task was performed in the middle of the pampas by the material. This task was performed in the middle of the pampas by the material. This task was performed in the middle of the pampas by the material. This task was performed in the middle of the pampas by the material. This task was performed in the middle of the pampas by the parti- parti- parti- parti- parti- culares culares culares culares culares (small-scale prospectors), who wore clothes made of white cotton flour (small-scale prospectors), who wore clothes made of white cotton flour (small-scale prospectors), who wore clothes made of white cotton flour (small-scale prospectors), who wore clothes made of white cotton flour (small-scale prospectors), who wore clothes made of white cotton flour sacks called cotonas. sacks called cotonas. sacks called cotonas. sacks called cotonas. sacks called cotonas. Chacabuco Higher Employees in the Rancho, c.1930. Now return to the Buzn and climb up to the Plant, a high mound where you can still appre- ciate the pillars which supported the BOILING CACHUCHOS. BOILING CACHUCHOS. BOILING CACHUCHOS. BOILING CACHUCHOS. BOILING CACHUCHOS. The ground caliche passed on to the boiling cachuchos, each fur- nished with 6 or 8 serpentines, through which steam at high tem- perature circulated. Water was added to these tanks, which were then heated until the caliche was chemically dissolved through lixi- viation, obtaining a sodium nitra- te solution also known as caldo (broth). Chacabuco had 54 ca- chuchos with a total capacity of 151,200 cubic feet. On the North side of the cachu- chos was the area of the clarifiers or chulladores. These were iron tanks where the broth was clari- fied through decantation. The se- diment was deposited on the bo- ttom and the nitrate solution on top. This solution was pumped and transferred by means of cha- nnels or conduits to the CRYS- CRYS- CRYS- CRYS- CRYS- TALLIZATION TROUGHS TALLIZATION TROUGHS TALLIZATION TROUGHS TALLIZATION TROUGHS TALLIZATION TROUGHS whe- re the nitrate crystallized. This is now a large area where only tra- ces of the supports remain. Cha- cabuco had a total of 240 crysta- llization troughs with a capacity of 6,000 cubic meters. atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 31 In order to extinguish fires in the nitrate fields, workers were instructed to use In order to extinguish fires in the nitrate fields, workers were instructed to use In order to extinguish fires in the nitrate fields, workers were instructed to use In order to extinguish fires in the nitrate fields, workers were instructed to use In order to extinguish fires in the nitrate fields, workers were instructed to use only old waters, that is, the water which had already been used in the ni- only old waters, that is, the water which had already been used in the ni- only old waters, that is, the water which had already been used in the ni- only old waters, that is, the water which had already been used in the ni- only old waters, that is, the water which had already been used in the ni- trate elaboration process and which still contained some amount of minerals. trate elaboration process and which still contained some amount of minerals. trate elaboration process and which still contained some amount of minerals. trate elaboration process and which still contained some amount of minerals. trate elaboration process and which still contained some amount of minerals. Any other kind of water only increased combustion. Any other kind of water only increased combustion. Any other kind of water only increased combustion. Any other kind of water only increased combustion. Any other kind of water only increased combustion. Nitrate drying field. The broth that didnt crystallize in the troughs was used in the pro- duction of salts such as iodine and borax. This work was done in the IODINE HOUSE IODINE HOUSE IODINE HOUSE IODINE HOUSE IODINE HOUSE located to the East of the plant. All that remains of this room where the iodine ba- rrels were kept is the stone vaulted ceiling and part of the brick oven. The nitrate was then transported through some of the 12 Loading Bays, each 73 meters long and built of Oregon pine, to the large DRYING FIELD DRYING FIELD DRYING FIELD DRYING FIELD DRYING FIELD, where nitrate lost all its remaining humidity. Once thoroughly dry, the nitrate was bagged in jute sacks each weighing one Spanish quintal (46 kilograms) and transported by train to the Antofagasta or Mejillo- nes seaports for its subsequent sale in the international markets. To end this suggested circuit, please return to the North side of the Square where the Employees Employees Employees Employees Employees Houses Houses Houses Houses Houses were located. These hou- ses were built in adobe and ce- ment blocks and had metal roofs. Unfortunately, they are now se- riously damaged and no traces of the gazebos and adornments they once had have survived. Now walk along Coquimbo Street to- wards the East for reaching sign HIGHER EMPLOYEES This area comprised the Em- This area comprised the Em- This area comprised the Em- This area comprised the Em- This area comprised the Em- ployees Club building, usually ployees Club building, usually ployees Club building, usually ployees Club building, usually ployees Club building, usually called the Rancho, and two called the Rancho, and two called the Rancho, and two called the Rancho, and two called the Rancho, and two tennis courts in its front. Next tennis courts in its front. Next tennis courts in its front. Next tennis courts in its front. Next tennis courts in its front. Next stood the chalet for the Nitrate stood the chalet for the Nitrate stood the chalet for the Nitrate stood the chalet for the Nitrate stood the chalet for the Nitrate Offices Inspector General and Offices Inspector General and Offices Inspector General and Offices Inspector General and Offices Inspector General and the houses for the Administrator the houses for the Administrator the houses for the Administrator the houses for the Administrator the houses for the Administrator and Higher Employees. This 800 and Higher Employees. This 800 and Higher Employees. This 800 and Higher Employees. This 800 and Higher Employees. This 800 meters long street, named Co- meters long street, named Co- meters long street, named Co- meters long street, named Co- meters long street, named Co- quimbo, is the longest in Cha- quimbo, is the longest in Cha- quimbo, is the longest in Cha- quimbo, is the longest in Cha- quimbo, is the longest in Cha- cabuco and runs from East to cabuco and runs from East to cabuco and runs from East to cabuco and runs from East to cabuco and runs from East to West. West. West. West. West. The Employees Club (13) Employees Club (13) Employees Club (13) Employees Club (13) Employees Club (13) or Rancho was a 3,400 square meters single-storey construction. It had adobe walls, tile and wood floors, a wood and corrugated iron roof and a large fireplace in the access hall. Its 26 room for higher employees, dining room, billiard room and reading room were distributed around this hall. Further towards the East, but on the same Coquimbo Street, were the Higher Employees Houses Higher Employees Houses Higher Employees Houses Higher Employees Houses Higher Employees Houses (15) (15) (15) (15) (15) and, in the middle of them, the Administrators Chalet (15) Administrators Chalet (15) Administrators Chalet (15) Administrators Chalet (15) Administrators Chalet (15), differing of the rest for its double roof made of Caa de Guayaquil, as well as for its size, finish, outdoor corridors and private garage. atacama 01/07/2005, 15:31 32 tapa.FH11 Fri Nov 30 16:30:47 2007 Page 4 Composite tapa.FH11 Fri Nov 30 16:30:47 2007 Page 5 Composite tapa.FH11 Fri Nov 30 16:30:47 2007 Page 6 Composite tapa.FH11 Fri Nov 30 16:30:47 2007 Page 7 Composite tapa.FH11 Fri Nov 30 16:30:47 2007 Page 8 Composite tapa.FH11 Fri Nov 30 16:30:47 2007 Page 9 Composite tapa.FH11 Wed Dec 19 10:32:30 2007 Page 10 Composite