2.6.

1 Function and physiology of nails

Nails are very tough sheet of keratin growing from the epidermis of the dorsal surface of
the toes and fingers. They are another form of skin appendage. Nails protect the distal tips of the
fingers and toes, enable the fingers to grasp very fine obects, increase the sensitivity of the digits,
as well as increase the stregth of the fingers and toes. !n addition, the condition of the nails also
reflects the health of the body.
!n healthy individuals, nails grow by about ".1#".1$ mm per day. The growth rate varies with
the individual, being faster in children and young people, and slower in older people. The growth rate
is also different between toes and fingers, with finger nails growing faster than toe nails. There are
also seasonal growth differences with faster growth in summeer and slower growth in winter.
2.6.2 %tructure and composition of nails
Fig.2.1& shows the stucture of nails. 'hat is generally called the nail, is actually the nail plate.
The nail is e(uivalent to the horny layer of the skin. !t has no living cells, is composed of very
tough keratin and is formed of closely#linked sheets of keratin cells. Fifs. 2.1$ and 2.16 show
scanning electron micrographs of the outer surface and cross section of the nail and the layered
stucture is clearly evident
!n comparison to the horny layer of the skin, the nail has a lower lipid content of ".1$#".)$*.
+n the other hand, the sulfur content of ,* is relatively higher than that of the skin keratin. -lthough
the form of the nails is different from that of hair, since the proteins from which this is composed
are the same, the amino acids in nails are very similar to those of hair in comparison to the horny
layer of the epidermis.
.ike hair, the nail is produced by the nail matri/. The nail grows out over the nail bed
towards the fingertip
.
Fig. 2.1&.
%tructure of a nail.
Fig. 2.1$.
%canning electron
micrograph of the
outer nail surface
Fig. 2.16.
%canning electron micrograph of
nail cross#section
The nail bed supplies water to the nail and plays a role in ensuring that the nail grows along
the nail wall 0described below1 in a fi/ed direction. The nail separates from the nail bed at the free
margin of the nail and since water is no longer supplied from bed to the nail at this point, the water
content falls, e/plaining why the free margin of the nail is easily broken.
The milky#white half#moon shape at the root of the nail is called the lunula. The nail at this
part is not fully keratini2ed. !n comparison to other parts of the nail plate, the lunula is softer and is
not in complete contact with the nail bed
The parts of the skin surrounding the nail are called the nail wall. The root of the nail is called
the back nail and the sides are called the side nail walls
The skin touching the nail at the root of the nail is called the eponychium. !ts role is to protect
the imperfectly#formed nail. 'hen the eponychium is missing, the nail is often scarred and the
newly#formed nail shows abnormalities.
The nail matri/ contains melanocytes which produce melanin pigment and there are small
amounts of melanin in the nail.
2.6., 3hysical characteristics of nails
Nails contain from $* to 2&* water depending on the e/ternal environment. .ike hair, they absorb
and lose water (uite easily.
'hen nails absorb water, they swell in volume and the thickness changes more than the
lenght and witdth. This is believed to be result of the layered construction seen in
The change in the toughness caused by water absorption and loss is the same as that of
hair becoming softer with water absorption and brittle with water loss. The tendency for nails to
break easily is the result of our daily lifestyle such as bathing and washing each day
Fig. 2.16. %canning electron micrograph of nail cross#section
2.6.&. Nail damage
Nail damage is very common, split nails in which the free margin of the nail looks like mica is
called onychoschisis.
+ne cause of splitt nails at the free margin is reduced water content due to the inability of
the nail bed in this area to supply water to the nail.
-nother physical cause is e/cessive use of nail enamel and enamel remover, which cause
water and lipid loss, as well as lipid loss due to e/posure to soap and detergents. 4onse(uently,
when using nail enamel and remover, it is important to choose products that take lipid and water
loss from the nail into consideration and to use naiol treatments as part of the daily care routine
2.1".1. Functions and types of manicure preparations
.ike hair, nails are modified epidermal tissue and have keratin, a type of protein, as their main
constituent. Their main purpose is to protect the area at the ends of the fingers and toes. 5ealthy
nails grow at an average rate of about , mm per month. 6anicure preparations are cosmetics
which protect the nails and make the fingers look attractive. Fig. 2.2 shows the order in which
manicure products are used along with their purposes, while table 2.) highlights the different types of
nail care products and their functions.
Nails vary from person to person, they are thick, thin, large, small, long, short, flat or curved
and their physical properties vary also. Nail hardness depends on the water content of the nail plate
and composition of the keratin forming it. 7enerally speaking, children have soft nails which have high
elasticity whereas adults have harder nails which break more easily
3urpose 8+rder of use9
Nail care 4are of nails and finger tips ########
####
Nail care product
:ase 4oat Fills in the grooves in the nails
!mproves adhesion
########
####
:ase coat
;namel 4olors the nail ########
####
Nail enamel
Top coat ;nhances luster, durability ########
####
Top coat
Nail dryer %peeds up drying and gives a
luster to the nail enamel
########
####
Nail dryer
;namel remover <emoves the enamel ########
####
;namel remover
Fig. 2.2. 3urpose of manicure products and order of using them
Table 2.). Types of nail product and their functions
3roduct Function
Nail treatment
4uticle remover
Nail guard
Nail polish
Nail bleach
Nicotine remover
%upplies oil to compensate for water and oil removal by solvents
5as humectant effect
Tidies up the cuticle
<einforces the nail
3revents splitting and breaking
6akes the nail surface smooth and gives it a luster
'hitens the nail
<emoves nicotine
2.1".2. Nail enamel
!n terms of composition, present nail enamels belong to the nitrocellulose lac(uer group. This is the
most practical type that hase been developed so far. -s well as forming a durable film which
protects nails, nail enamel makes them look more beautiful and is thus an indispensable part of
modern beauty treatments. Nail enamel has come into common use because it easy to use and
gives a nice luster to the nails. !t would be vary difficult to apply color to the nails using powders or
pastes.





2.1".2.1. =uality re(uirements for nail enamel
011 !t should have a viscosity permitting easy application to the nails
021 !t %hould dry#(uickly 0,#$ min.1 and form an even film
0,1 The film should not be cloudy or have pin holes in when dry
0&1 3igments should be evenly dispersed and the prescribed color and luster should be
maintained
0$1 The nail enamel should adhere well and not come off during daily activities
061 !t should be easy to remove with enamel remover and come off cleanly, it should not
damage the nails or be to/ic to them
2.1".2.2. 6ain ingredients of nail enamel
Film formers
<esisns
3lastici2ers
%olvents
4oloring agents, colors and pigments
%uspending agents
2.1".,.;namel remover
;namel remover consists of a mi/ture of solvents capable of dissolving nitrocellulose and resins.
There are types which contain moisturi2ers and water to replenish the moisture and fat removed by
the solvents, and there is also a cream#type enamel remover.
-s the ingredients of enamel remover are highly inflammable it is necessary to take ade(uate
precautions againts naked flames during manufacture.
2.1".&. Nail treatment
'hen nail anamel and enamel remover are used repeatedly, it is important to remember to take
care of the nails and the finger tips. 3roducts referred to as nail treatments are used for this
purpose. There are milky lotion and cream types and one in a pencil#shaped tube which is
particularly easy to use. They are most effective when used before going to bed, after removing the
enamel from the nails, putting the hands in warm soapy water and drying them completely. The
fre(uency of ise depends on the condition of the nails. !t is a good idea to use nail treatment 2#,
times a week.
2.1".$.011. 4uticle remover
4uticle remover is a cosmetic product used to remove the old cuticle and dirt on the nail plate, in
order to keep the nails looking attractive. +ne type contains weakly alkaline ingredients such as
sodium phosphate and triethanolamine, while another contains a scrub powder so it has a physical
mode of action
%pecial care must be taken to ensure that cuticle remover does not go into the eyes, on to other
parts of the body or on to clothing.
2.1".$.021. Nail guard
This is cosmetic product which strenghthens thin and soft nails, prevents cracking and chipping and
makes the enamel last longer. !n one type, polymer powders 0as strengthening agents1 and nylon
fibers are added to the enamel base coat
2.1".$.0,1. Nail drier
Nail drier speeds up the drying of nail enamel and gives it an e/tra luster. !t is usually aerosol form
and consists of a small amount of propellant. >arious oils may be used in the nail drier base
2.1".$.0&1. Nail 3olish
Nail polish is applied to the nails and then they are polished in with charmois leather to keep them in
a helathy condition by filling in the grooves, making them smooth and giving them a shine. !t also
makes the enamel film more durable and gives the nails a greater luster. The main ingredients are
inorganic powders and small (uantity of pigment is used to give the nails a healthy color. !t comes in
powder, paste or compact form.
2.1".$.0$1. +ther manicure preparation
;/ample of other manicure products are nicotine remover and nail bleach, a similar product, for
making the nails whiter. %uch products are not seen on the market any more.