Bolso Coco

Copyright 2012, ChrisW Designs. All Rights Reserved.
Please do not copy and/or distribute this pattern in any way whatsoever, wether you profit
from it or not. However please feel free to distribute the link to my Blog http://blog.chriswdesigns.com/ so your friends can obtain their own copy!
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This FREE pattern is proudly brought to you by ChrisW Designs.
http://www.chriswdesigns.com

I do hope you enjoy this free pattern and if so, I hope you will share the link and
maybe even add a link to it on your own blog! That would be wonderful and
very much appreciated! :)

Special thanks to my wonderful pattern testers, in particular Maria for finding
my pattern booboos and Naomi for naming this bag for me and for proof
reading! I would be LOST without these wonderful Ladies! Thank you!

Coco 2012 ChrisWDesigns.com Page 2

The pattern comes ready to print out on standard A4 paper OR you can also
print on Letter or Foolscape simply by checking the "Disable shrink to fit" or
similar in your printers settings.

Please note that due to some variations between printers, occasionally it
occurs that the printer may print the pattern untrue to scale which may affect
the final quality of your finished bag if the variation is more than minor.

To help avoid this, please print out the test squares on the next page to see
how your individual printer is printing.

Please ensure you check your printers setup or print handling prior to printing,
to ensure that any available settings for Printing to scale or No Scale Or
Print Scaling: None are checked.

You may see Properties Print to scale: 100%. Check this.

You may also see a setting Choose paper source by PDF page size Try
checking this!

I hope this helps to ensure your pattern prints correctly and you have trouble
free assembly! If you are still having difficulty printing to scale, please contact
me so a solution can be found!

Enjoy your pattern! I would love to see a photo of your finished creation!
Cheers and happy sewing,
Christine


This square measures
5cm X 5cm
This Square measures
3 X 3


Features:
The Coco is just right for a day out! It closes with a magnetic snap and has an inside slip
pocket as well. Featuring grommets, piped handles with hooks and rivets too, nobody will
believe you made it yourself!
Finished bag size = 33cmW X 11.5cmD X 20cmH. (13W X 4D X 8H)
Pattern Notes
All seam allowances are 6mm () unless otherwise stated.
Right side = Front or patterned side of the fabric
When joining 2 printed paper pattern pieces (where the pattern piece does not fit
whole on one sheet of paper for printing) make sure that you line up the pattern
pieces so that the join lines overlap to become one line. Tape together with sticky
tape and cut. Easy!
Fabric & Construction Suggestions
For this bag I have used quilting weight fabrics and faux suede for the top band. *When making the
straps it is much easier to sew the ends in place by making the interfacing shorter than the strap by
3 on each end so this is how I have written the instructions however the pics show the straps fully
interfaced.
If you have a good machine, you may like to fully interface the strap. However if you are unsure of
your machines capabilities, I suggest the shorter interfacing! This cut down on the bulk, which really
helps if your machine baulks at a lot of thicknesses! I also riveted my straps to make them secure.
For Hardware, please visit my Etsy Shop Here:
https://www.etsy.com/shop/ChrisWDesigns?section_id=13437212 I stock hardware kits for all my
patterns BUT if you dont see the one for Coco or any others you need, please contact me as I may
just be waiting on some new stock to arrive! I also carry things like rivets, grommets and extra
magnetic snaps etc.so please just let me know what you are looking for!
TIP: If you dont like riveting or not keen on the piped straps, you can easily make this bag with flat
straps instead. Just cut your straps at 5cm (2) wide instead. Fold them over and stitch in place with
a boxed cross formation to secure and they will sit nicely flat! Note: The piped straps DO
gather/bunch a little on the hooks eye. This is normal for this particular style of piped strap and not
an error.


These are the hooks and grommets I have used.

You will need:
Exterior Fabric: Suggested Quilting weight cottons or Home Dec weight 45cm ( Yard) of
112cm (44) wide fabric
Small amount of Contrast Fabric for your band. (I used a leftover piece of Faux Suede that I
had in my stash)
Lining Fabric: Quilting weight - 45cm ( Yard) of 112cm (44) wide fabric.
Fusible Interfacing: Light-mid weight 90cm (1 Yard). I used Pellon SF 101 Shape-Flex.
Fusible Fleece. Mid weight - I used Pellon Fusible Thermolam Plus TP971F 25cm ( Yard)
Small amount of double sided fusible Peltex or similar firm stabilizer for the top band.
Piece of Template Plastic 23cm X 10cm (9 X 4)
Matching Thread.
4 X 4.5cm (1) long Hooks X 2.5cm (1) wide (Inside measurement of strap loop).
4 X 10mm () Grommets. (Inside diameter)
2 pieces of 1cm diameter () plastic tubing, 33cm (13 ) Long.
4 Double Capped Rivets.
Tools:
Your sewing machine
Scissors & Rotary Cutter and mat (optional)
Fading marker or chalk
Pins
Iron
Tape measure
Hammer
Grommet setting tools
Rivet setting tools
2.5cm (1)
Length = 4.5cm (1)
Grommet inside
diameter = 10mm ()


Seam/stitch ripper (Just in case!)
Reading Glasses - if you are getting a little over the hill, like ME! LOL
How to make your bag -Preparation:
Before you begin, I recommend you make yourself a nice hot cuppa, settle back in your favourite
chair and READ through all of the instructions to get the bigger picture and then follow them in
order.
1) Cutting Out:
Cut the fabric, interfacing, fleece, Peltex & Template Plastic pieces as instructed. Where pattern
pieces are cut on the fold you will need to take care to fold fabric etc before cutting.
Items in Exterior fabric
Cut 2 Body (On Fold)
Cut 4 Top Band (On Fold )
Cut 1 Inside Patch Pocket
Cut 4 -Inset
Items in Exterior fabric WITHOUT Pattern Pieces:
Cut 2 - Straps 46cm X 17cm (18 X 6)
Items in Lining fabric
Cut 2 Body LINING (On Fold)
Cut 1 Inside Patch Pocket
Cut 1 Bag Base (On Fold)
Cut 2 Magnetic Snap Tabs

Items in Fusible Interfacing
Cut 4 Body LINING (On Fold)
Cut 4 Top Band (On Fold )
Cut 4 Magnetic Snap Tab Reinforcements
Items in Fusible Interfacing WITHOUT pattern Pieces:
NOTE: Fusible interfacing for the strap is 15cm (6) shorter than your Strap length!
Cut 2- Strap 30.5cm X 17cm (12 X 6)
Items in Fusible Fleece
Cut 2 Body FLEECE (On Fold)

Items in Peltex or similar
Cut 2 Top Band


Items in template Plastic
Cut 1 bag Base

Sewing Instructions:
Unless otherwise stated, use 6mm () seam allowance.
Lets make it:
2) Attach Interfacing to your strap:
*Interface Strap - Centre the interfacing on your strap so that there is 7.5cm (3) of space
either end without interfacing. This is to reduce bulk and make it easier to sew the straps as it
gets quite thick if you interface right to the end!
3) Make the Straps:
a) First we need to make two closed end straps. Press 6mm () under to wrong side on each
short end of the strap.
b) Fold in half, lengthwise and press a crease.
c) Now open out and fold long raw edges in until they almost meet the crease, press.
When unfolded, it looks like this: (Note my straps are shown fully interfaced - See Fabric &
Construction Suggestions on page 4)

d) Now fold your pressed strap in half, pressed edges together and press nice and flat.


e) Topstitch the open pressed edges together along both short sides and the open long edge.
f) Now we will complete the piped strap: Next fold your strap in half again and pin together to
form a tube, leaving 7.5cm (3) open on each end. This part wont be stitched closed!

g) Next stitch the strap sides together to form a tube, beginning and ending 7.5cm (3) from
each end.
h) Now insert the tubing into the strap.

Pressed Edges
Creased Edge
Leave 7.5cm (3)
open on each end.


i) Maneuver the tubing so that it lies within the stitched tube of the strap and stitch each short
end closed to secure tubing inside. TIPS: When stitching the first seam across it is easier to
push the tubing back out of the way somewhat. When stitching the second seam, you may
like to use a zipper foot or set your needle as far over towards the tubing as you can get it, if
your machine has this feature.

j) Now taking one of your hooks, thread the end of the strap through and secure in place with
a few stitches, back and forth. This is the point that may test your machine if you have
interfaced your entire strap! If you Rivet your strap as well as stitch, it will be fine even if you
dont manage to stitch this well!


Repeat for the other end and add rivets to secure and for decoration! If you need help with setting
rivets, please refer to my rivet tutorial on my blog here:
http://blog.chriswdesigns.com/2011/03/how-to-install-rivets.html

4) Lets Make the Exterior:
a) With right sides together pin inset pieces to body, making sure that you match the notch
marks on the Inset to the notch marks on the body.


b) You will end up with little triangles like these, which is how it should be as you will cut these
off shortly:

c) Open out and press seams flat and apart.
d) Interface the exterior body pieces, over the top of the seams like this and cut off the
triangular bits:


e) Now attach your fleece to the body pieces, on top of interfacing. Cut out the fleece where
your darts are located:

f) With right sides together, stitch darts.


g) Apply Interfacing to your top band pieces. Set two aside for now. Pin straight edge of top
band, right sides together with your body.

h) Stitch. Press seams down towards body.
i) Run a row of topstitching along the body side of seam and run two rows of topstitching
down either side of inset seams.


j) Place body pieces right sides together, making sure you match darts and seams. Pin in place.

k) Stitch.
l) Finger press the seam OPEN and run a row of topstitching down either side of the seam you
just sewed. Its a little fiddly BUT this will help your bag hold its shape nicely and look more
professional!


Your bag now looks like this:

Set aside for the moment!

5) Make Magnetic Snap Tabs
a) Take one of the fabric magnetic snap pieces and fold in half, right sides together. Press.


b) Open tab and place the reinforcement interfacing just above the fold on the wrong side and
iron in place.

c) Using a magnetic snap backing as a template, make a mark 1.5cm () above the fold. (In
the centre hole of magnetic snap backing)
d) Cut slits for your magnetic snap as per template and insert the prongs through the slits.
e) Place the backing plate over the magnetic snap and bend prongs inwards using a hammer.


f) Iron another interfacing strip over the top of your snap to protect the tab from wear.

g) Fold the magnetic snap tab in half, right sides together. Stitch along both side edges. Clip
corners.

h) Turn right sides out and press.
i) Repeat for the second magnetic snap tab. Set them aside for the moment.


6) Prepare Top Band.
a) Retrieve the two top band pieces you set aside earlier. Fold in half to locate the centre and
mark with a pin.

b) Centre magnetic snap tab onto the top band with right sides together (the snap is down to
you cant see it) and raw edges are 2.5cm (1) down from the top.

c) Run a row of stitches approximately 3mm () up from raw edges.

Raw edges of the tab are
2.5cm (1) down from the
top.


d) Fold tab down over the raw edges and run two rows of stitching to secure tab in place,
making sure you enclose the raw edges as you go! Repeat for the second snap.

e) Place top band, right sides together and pin sides.

f) Stitch, pressing seams open.


g) Retrieve your exterior body and place your top band, right sides together (curved edges)
and matching side seams, pin in place.

h) Stitch. Trim the seam back across the top of the side seams.


i) Press the seam open.

j) Fold top band down, wrong sides together and press again. Run a row of topstitching close
to pressed edges.

Set aside for the moment!
7) Assemble Lining:
a) Retrieve pocket pieces. Place right sides together and pin together, leaving a 7.5cm (3 ) gap
open at the bottom for turning. Stitch and trim corners.

7.5cm (3 ) gap


b) Turn right sides out and press.
c) Apply interfacing to your body lining pieces.
d) Centre pocket onto one of your bag lining pieces, 2cm () down from the top of lining,
making sure the hole you left for turning is at the bottom. (Please note picture shows larger
pocket placed further down, please ignore this!)

e) Stitch in place using two rows of topstitching, closing bottom opening as you go, making sure
you leave the top of your pocket open! LOL

Place pocket 2cm ()
down from top


f) Next stitch darts in your lining

g) Press all dart towards the centre.
h) Place lining pieces, right sides together. Pin in place, leaving a gap of approximately 18cm
(7) for turning your bag.

i) Stitch and press seams open.


8) Assemble You Bag!
a) Now lets put it all together! With your lining WRONG SIDE OUT and your bag exterior
RIGHT SIDE OUT, put your bag exterior INSIDE your lining so that RIGHT SIDES are together.
Take care to match the side seams and make sure your magnetic snaps are down out of the
way! Pin.

b) Stitch all the way around your bag.
c) Pull your bag through the hole you left in your lining so your bag is now right side out with
your lining pushed down inside the bag. (Leave the hole open for the moment!)


d) Take one of your Peltex pieces and through the hole in your lining, carefully push it up as far
as it will go into your top band, lining up the sides with your side seams. Remember the
curved side goes to the top of your bag. Pin in place and repeat for the second piece of
Peltex.

e) Now carefully press your top band BETWEEN your pins to fuse the Peltex in place. Press from
both sides to get a good bond. Remove pins and press the rest of your band so that the
Peltex is firmly fused all the way around.
f) Next, using your fading marker, on wrong side, measure in 8cm (3) from side seam and
down 18mm () and make a cross to mark where to set your Grommets.

8cm (3) in from side seam
18mm () down
from the top


g) Follow the manufacturers instructions and set your grommets in place!

h) Insert your straps hooks into the grommets. Now stitch closed the opening in your lining
either with ladder stitches or if you are a bit lazy, like me, you can machine the seam closed
close to the edges. Set aside for the moment! Great! Your almost done!

9) Make a base for your bag!
a) Retrieve your template plastic (or similar firm bag bottom) and your bag sleeve lining
fabric.


b) Fold the sleeve lining in half, right sides together. Pin.

c) Stitch one short side and one long side, leaving one short end open for turning.
d) Clip corners.

e) Turn right side out. Press
f) Trim the points off your template plastic so they arent so sharp.


g) Slip your template plastic into the sleeve, fold the seam allowance inwards and stitch the
opening closed, close to folds.

h) Slip your bag bottom into your bag and youre done!

Congratulations, You can now
show off your new bag!


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COCO
Body FLEECE
Cut 2
P
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O
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F
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Top


COCO
Bag Base
Cut 1 Template Plastic


COCO
Bag Base
Cut 1 Lining
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F
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A seam allowance of 6mm ()
is included in the pattern.
ChrisWDesigns.com 2012


COCO
Inside Patch Pocket
Cut 1 Exterior
Cut 1 Lining
A seam allowance of 6mm ()
is included in the pattern.
ChrisWDesigns.com 2012
COCO
Magnetic Snap Tabs
Cut 2 Lining
COCO
Magnetic Snap Tabs
Reinforcement
Cut 4 Interfacing

Bolso Coco

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