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trave l stor i e s i n s pi rati on cycli n g r e s ou r ce s
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ISSUE!
Cyclist
adventure cycling association special issue www.adventurecycling.org $4.95
Touring Cross Country

or Close to Home
PLUS:
Exploring South Korea
Bike Travel 101
BE AN
ADVENTURE
CYCLIST
Join Now For These Great Membership Benefits:
Adventure Cyclist magazine Cyclists Travel Guide: Bikes, Resources, How-To Discounts on our bicycle maps
The best bike routes in North America Members-only enjoyable group cycling tours Outreach programs to make
bicycling and bike travel more accessible and popular.
Adventure Cyclings 40,000-mile

Route Network
To join go to www.adventurecycling.org
Adventure Cycling Associations mission is to inspire people of all ages to travel by bicycle and to help cyclists explore
the landscapes and history of America for fitness, fun, and self-discovery. We do this by creating bike routes for the
nation, getting Americans bicycling, and supporting bicycling communities. Adventure Cycling is a 501(c)3 non-profit.
2
A DV E N T U R E C Y C L I S T
SPECIAL ISSUE
A DV E N T U R E C Y C L I N G . O R G
Special Issue contents

is published nine times each year by
the Adventure Cycling Association,
a nonprofit service organization for
recreational bicyclists. Individual
membership costs $40 yearly to U.S.
addresses and includes a subscription to Adventure Cyclist, including
the Cyclists Travel Guide, and discounts on Adventure Cycling maps.
The entire contents of Adventure
Cyclist are copyrighted by Adventure
Cyclist and may not be reproduced
in whole or in part without written
permission from Adventure Cyclist.
All rights reserved.
Our Cover
TOM GORDON
Cyclists tour along the scenic

landscape of the Sonoma coast
in Northern California. Photo by
Chuck Haney.
MISSION
08
ON THE KIMCHI TRAIL by Gregg Bleakney

Delicious cuisine and a fantastic road network await on the Korean Peninsulas southern half.
18
The Secrets of Going Small by Russ Roca
24
Cycling Across America by Jerry Soverinsky
32
BICYCLE TRAVEL 101 by Adventure Cycling Staff
The mission of Adventure Cycling

Association is to inspire people of all
ages to travel by bicycle. We help
cyclists explore the landscapes and
history of America for fitness, fun,
and self-discovery.
CAMPAIGNS
Our strategic plan includes three

major campaigns:
Creating Bike Routes for America
Getting Americans Bicycling
Supporting Bicycling Communities
Short, close-to-home tours can be just as rewarding as epic trips, and a lot easier to pull off.
A bicycle-touring expert lends some advice about how to make the big ride happen.
How to Reach Us
To join, change your address, or ask

questions about membership, visit us
online at www.adventurecycling.org
or call (800) 755-2453 or (406) 721-1776
Let Adventure Cyclings accumulated knowledge lead you down the road or trail.
email:
memberships@adventurecycling.org
d e pa r t m e n t s
C O LUMNS
06 WAYPOINTS
38 companions wanted
28 The Final Mile / Audrey Medina
Subscription Address:
Adventure Cycling Association
P.O. Box 8308
Missoula, MT 59807
30 TRAVELS WITH WILLIE / Willie Weir
Headquarters:
150 E. Pine St.
Missoula, MT 59802
39 OPEN ROAD GALLERY

LETTERS
04 LETTER from the DIRECTOR

05 LETTERs from the readers
The call of the bike trip is finally answered
Remembering Springbok fever in South Africa
34 Mechanical Advantage / Jan Heine
Reducing weight will increase comfort while touring
36 Cyclesense/ John Schubert
A look back at Johns recumbent experiences
SPECIAL ISSUE
A DV E N T U R E C Y C L I N G. O R G
Letter from the Director
ADVENTURE
CYCLIST
Why Join?
Special Issue
The magic of membership in North Americas

largest cycling group
www .adventurecycling. org

editor
michael deme
mdeme@adventurecycling.org
art director
greg siple
gsiple@adventurecycling.org
technical editor
john schubert
schubley@aol.com
F IELD e d i t o r
michael mccoy
mmccoy@adventurecycling.org
contributing writers
dan d'ambrosio nancy clark

willie weir joe kurmaskie
jan heine
Copy Editor
phyllis picklesimer
advertising director
rick bruner
509.493.4930
advertising@adventurecycling.org
STA F F
executive director
jim sayer
jsayer@adventurecycling.org
c h i e f o p e r a t i o n s o ff i c e r
sheila snyder, cpa

membership & Development
julie huck amanda lipsey

amy corbin joshua tack
thomas bassett
media
winona bateman michael mccoy

p u b l i c at i o n s
michael deme greg siple

derek gallagher
it d e par tm e nt
john sieber richard darne

matt sheils
tours
mo mislivets paul hansbarger

routes and mapping
c a r l a m a j e r n i k j e n n i f e r m i l y k o
virginia sullivan kevin mcmanigal
casey greene nathan taylor
sales and marketing
teri maloughney
cyc lo s o u r c e
ted bowman
sarah raz
o ff i c e m a n a g e r
beth petersen
board of dire ctors

president
carol york
vice president
jennifer garst
s e c r e ta ry
andy baur
treasurer
andy huppert
board members
jason boucher todd copley

george mendes jeff miller
donna o'neal wally werner
SPECIAL ISSUE
As director of Adventure Cycling Association, I

definitely have an interest in encouraging you
to join as a member. But to be honest, I have also
witnessed the magic that can come with membership in our
unique organization. I have met hundreds of individuals
who have read this magazine,
used our website, or talked
with our staff and volunteers,
and have taken that first big
step toward traveling by bike
whether its a quick overnight

trip or something more challenging, like a week, a month, or
even a year (!) on the road.
I have met even more cyclists
who already travel by bike,
but want to keep the fire burning by reading the stories of others;
sharing journals through our web-based
Ride Registry; buying maps to study
(and dream about) during those short,
gray days of winter; learning about new
products and travel techniques; or meeting fellow riders at one of our member
gatherings, through our social media networks like Facebook, or on our guided
tours.
And then I have met the remarkable
people (now were talking thousands)
who travel by bicycle because it has
fundamentally changed their lives by
giving them a sense of freedom, introducing them to their future spouse or
best friend, leading them down a new
career path, or rejuvenating their faith in
humanity.
Whatever their reasons for joining,
nearly 45,000 people have decided to
make Adventure Cycling a part of their
lives and that number increases every
year. When you join, you get nine issues
of Adventure Cyclist (truly one of the
best travel magazines around), access to
the digital Cyclists Yellow Pages (the best
guide to global bike travel resources),
discounted maps to adventures across
North America, and access to affordable

and personally-enriching tours. Perhaps
best of all, you get to belong to a large,
big-hearted community of people not
just cyclists, but people who are seeking
fun, fitness, and self-discovery on one
of the greatest, most endearing vehicles
ever invented: the bicycle.
Please flip through these pages, check
out our website, dip into our social
media sites, and come explore the magic
of bicycle travel. You never know what
youll find on the next page or just
over that hill.
Sincerely,
Jim Sayer
Executive Director
jsayer@adventurecycling.org
Letters from our Readers

Taking the kids, Weight versus pain,
Much love for the Cyclists Travel Guide
Touring parents
These days, I often wonder whether we
will ever again muster the energy for a
real bicycle tour. With two young boys
who deprive us of sleep at night and
require astounding amounts of parental involvement for approximately 99
percent of their waking hours, my husband and I are more tired than we ever
were on any long-distance tour. And
now its winter in Ithaca and with all
the snow and hills, adventure seems
like a far-away concept.
So Aaron Teasdales article (A Season
in the Snake, December/January 2010)
was the perfect antidote when it arrived
in our mailbox. Real bike tours come
in all shapes, lengths, and sizes. As soon
as this snow melts, Im planning some
micro-bike tours in our area, and Ill
even try to bring the boys. Thanks for
the inspiration!
Sarabeth Matilsky
Ithaca, New York
Inspiration plus
I just want to offer my appreciation
for the May 2010 issue. Ive been reading every issue cover-to-cover since a
buddy signed me up last year, and this
is my favorite issue yet. I loved the
historical articles, as they put things
in context and help me feel connected
with a longer-term perspective and

movement. But mainly I am writing to
say that Audrey Medinas Touring the
Commute article was fantastic, just the
kind of down-to-earth approach that I
think is needed to get more people out
there cycling. Very inspiring. Please run
more stuff like this.
Tree Bressen
Eugene, Oregon
Weight is paramount
I enjoyed reading Jan Heines article,
Light Weight and Touring in the
August/September 2010 issue. I like
playing with the online bicycle calculator on bikecalculator.com, and
am amazed at how much headwind,
tailwind, weight, and grade affect
the caloric intake necessary to propel
a bicycle. I have to take issue, however, with the assumption concerning the time frame to get to the top of
Independence Pass based on different
weight loads on the bike. Those equations assume that a person can maintain
a steady power output. I can assure
you that as a 46-year-old, 115-pound
woman, if you put 30 more pounds
on my bike, Im going to end up slowing down significantly, and possibly
do some walking. That will add much
more than the predicted 11 additional
minutes to get over that pass. Weight

matters a great deal, especially to those
of us who are smaller and getting a bit
older. I examine every item I take with
a critical eye and I believe in the equation weight = pain!
Chris Melton
Springfield, Oregon
Grinding halts
Your April edition (The Cyclists
Travel Guide) has just dropped
through the letter box and everything
has ground to a halt. What a superb
set of articles.I wish they had been in
print before I set off down the Pacific
Coast Highway in 2007, and they have
certainly fired me up for my trip across
America in 2012.
I look forward to your next special
edition.
Richard M Bosworth
Harrogate, United Kingdom
Your letters are welcome. Due to the volume of mail
and email we receive, we cannot print every letter.
We may edit letters for length and clarity. If you do
not want your comments to be printed in Adventure
Cyclist, please state so clearly. Please include your
name and address with your correspondence. Email
your comments, questions, or letters to editor@
adventurecycling.org or mail to Editor, Adventure
Cyclist, P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807.
MAPS, MAPS, MAPS

North Americas best bicycle maps
40,000 miles of cyclist-created routes
Maps feature: Turn-by-turn directions, elevation profiles, camping, lodging,
bike shops, riding conditions, and more. www.adventurecycling.org/routes
SPECIAL ISSUE
News you can use from the world of bicycle travel
by Michael McCoy
WayPoints
About two and a half years

ago, Jim and Jan Gregg of rural
Winthrop, Washington, had a
light-bulb moment. Our Barn
Bicycle Camping project was
conceived as an idea to support
the bicycling community, Jim
wrote, explaining that he and Jan
are part of that community. The
couple has traveled by bicycle
in Chile and Italy, they rode a
lot when they lived in Colorado,
and theyve taken cycling trips to
England and elsewhere.
Their vision fulfilled, the
Greggs Barn Bicycle Camping
facility is located along the
Northern Tier and the new
Sierra Cascade bicycle routes,
on the east slope of the North
Cascades along Highway 20
between Winthrop and Mazama.
Its intended for use only by
those traveling by bicycle. The
list of rules is short and sweet:
Sorry, no vehicles. Please set
up your camp by our barn. We
will come meet you when we
get a chance. Additional instructions at the barn. We ask for an
$8 donation per tent site to help
cover cost of toilet.
According to Jim, We have
had a successful (2010) camp
season. The bikers are all very
appreciative and say we are the
only camplike it that they have
found on their trip across the
country. We have met some
great people. We figure half our
campers come from Adventure
Cyclings maps. Our season is
mid-May to mid-September.
For off-season visits, call
(509) 996-3163 or email jim@
wilsonranch.com.
6
SPECIAL ISSUE
Chris Pike
Camping
in the
cascades
Snow bikers enjoy the wide-open views on frozen Lake Baikal.
BIKING BAIKAL
A leisurely spin around the lake
Last winter, Waypoints
received an email message
from Nicole Catalano, communications manager for the environmental organization Pacific
Environment (Protecting the
Living Environment of the
Pacific Rim), about a group
of five robust snow bikers who
planned to attempt a circumnavigation of Lake Baikal in
Siberia.
Lake Baikal, incidentally, is
no backyard pond. The oldest and deepest lake in the
world, it holds approximately
20 percent of Earths freshwater, or more than all five of
the Great Lakes combined. Its
400 miles long, as wide as 50
miles, and reaches a depth of

5,380 feet.
The expedition, Nicole
said, was set to begin in late
February. The lake is frozen
at this time, she wrote, and
they are riding entirely on
snow and ice for an estimated
43 days. Lake Baikal has
never been circumnavigated
by bicycle, and no one has
ever made a circumnavigation
by human power in winter conditions.
At the Lake Baikal Winter
Circumnavigation 2010
website, www.cyclebaikal.
com, its reported that the
cyclists did indeed set out on
February 25, and successfully
completed their adventure a

week quicker than predicted,
on day 36, when they rode
into Listvyanka. In addition
to meeting their challenge,
the group intends to create
a documentary film highlighting the incredible beauty of
Lake Baikal in winter, as well
as feature an overview of the
environmental concerns in the
region, interviews with local
environmental activists and
other residents, and some of
the unique attributes of Lake
Baikal, such as the worlds
only freshwater seals and the
shamans that live and practice
on Olkhon Island.
MAJOR TAYLOR
WARM
SHOWERS
One of the most famous sports champions of his time

I recently read Major Taylor:
The Fastest Bicycle Rider in the
World ($39.95), a fascinating
biography of Marshall Taylor,
the U.S. and world champion
bicycle racer of the late 19th
and early 20th centuries, which
features more than 100 photos
and illustrations. Many interesting people are forgotten by the
overwhelming tide of history but
Im glad author Andrew Ritchie
reached back and retrieved
Taylor from the collection of the
too-little known.
Major Taylor was the first
African-American champion of
any sport other than boxing. He
was one of the most famous,
if not the most famous, sports
champions of his time and
lived a life of fame and fortune

that rivaled that of any athlete of
today. As a black man, he faced
racism both overt and covert yet
managed to fight his way to the
top of a sport that, in its time,
was more popular than any other.
Unfortunately, bicycle racings popularity was not to last

and Taylors post-racing life
spiraled into one of destitution
and desperation. At the best of
times, Taylor was known for his
clean living, fairness, and cheerfulness, and never was known
to retaliate, even when many a
dirty, underhanded tactic was
practiced against him. Although
Major Taylor is a biography
about the man, its also a sobering look back to a time when the
color of ones skin trumped ability or intellect.
For more information, visit
www.cyclepublishing.com or call
(415) 753-8572. Mike Deme
U.S. Bicycle Route System

Connecting people, communities, and the nation
is working with national, state,
local and nonprofit leaders to
create an official U.S. Bicycle
Route System (USBRS), with
the support of our members
and financial contributions from
the SRAM Cycling Fund, Bikes
Belong, New Belgium Brewery
and AASHTOs Center for
Environmental Excellence.
The official system is developing through partnerships between
bicycle and trail advocates and
the state and local transportation
authorities. The interstate routes
are submitted to the American
Association of State Highway
and Transportation Officials
(AASHTO) for cataloging and
number designations. Adventure
Cycling began providing staff support in 2005 and now provides
extensive technical assistance to
agencies and cycling/trail volunteers across the nation.
Since AASHTO approved
the national plan that states are
using to coordinate route development, theres been significant
movement by states to transform
broadly defined corridors into spe-
cific routes that connect urban,

suburban, and rural areas across
America. Leadership varies from
state to state. In some states,
cycling advocates are developing routes and coordinating
efforts with the state transportation agency; in other states, the
state agency is leading while collaborating closely with volunteers
from cycling/trail organizations
and the local communities; and
finally, some states are forming
work teams made up of agency
stakeholders and the cycling
and trail community. While some
routes being developed are
completely new, others are existing routes and include state or
regional networks and the integration of Adventure Cyclings
40,699-mile bike route network.
Adventure Cycling anticipates
the first newly designated U.S.

Bike Routes (USBR) in almost
30 years will be approved
in 2011. In states that previously had USBRs, efforts are
underway to update the routes
to make them safer and more
enjoyable. And impressively,
there are 30 states plus the
District of Columbia working
at some level with another 11
interested in getting involved.
In addition, the system has
drawn the interest of key national
leaders, like Representative
Peter DeFazio who serves on
the Subcommittee on Highways
and Transit. Along with Earl
Blumenauer from the U.S. House
of Representatives, the USBRS
has some key backing. While the
system is relatively inexpensive
to develop, incentive funding
for states to further plan, sign,
and develop facilities along the
routes will create a system more
in line with those networks taking
shape in Europe and Canada.
To learn more about the efforts
to create the largest official bike
route system in the world, visit
www.adventurecycling.org/usbrs.
Waypoints heard recently

from Randy Fay, webmaster of
Warmshowers.org, the online
source for finding places to
stay for those traveling by
bicycle. People who are willing
to host cyclists sign up, provide their contact information,
and occasionally have riders
stay with them. The courtesy
extended might be as simple
as a spot to pitch a tent, or
it may include a shower, a
hot meal, and a soft bed.
The site even has the capacity to load Adventure Cycling
routes and show the locations
of Warmshowers members
nearby.
Randy wanted to fill us in on
a couple of new items so that
we could pass the information
along to our members:
After founding the list and
maintaining it for more than
12 years, Roger Gravel has
handed off the baton, Randy
wrote. I think Rogers contribution to touring cyclists deserves
a worldwide celebration of all
that he did for us by establishing and maintaining the list all
those years. Probably the biggest disappointment for Roger,
being from Qubec, was that
we didnt get a French version
of the site up. But in his honor,
were in the process of doing
so.
The site is being translated
into other languages. Spanish
is up already, and Randy says
French will be next. Were
looking for a very few people
who are native French speakers, understand English, and
would be willing to take on this
project, he wrote.
Randy added that the
site now has about 11,000
members, up from only a little
more than 1,000 in 2005. He
encourages you to have a look
at the Warmshowers faq to
learn more and then to create
an account and get involved if
youre so inclined.
For more information, visit
www.warmshowers.org.
SPECIAL ISSUE
Pickled
vegetables,
island hops, and
whiskey shots in the
Land of the Morning Calm
ON THE
KIMCHI
TRAIL
Story and photos by
Gregg Bleakney
SPECIAL ISSUE
SPECIAL ISSUE
oo-Lee looked more like a Little

League baseball player than
a touring cyclist. We met for
the first time at an overlook
above Sinseondae Bay on South
Koreas Geoje Island. He was
wearing A-list brand hiking capris, a New
York Yankees baseball cap, and a pair of
New Balance sneakers that were disproportionately colossal to his wiry five-foot
six-inch frame. His Ferrari red bicycle was

adorned with late-model panniers; there
wasnt a loose strap, unsightly lashed item,
peeling frame sticker, or smudge of grease
to be seen. Despite being a teenager, WooLee ran an impeccably tight ship. He was
the perfect candidate to probe for data
about the road ahead.
For the past six hours, my cycling
comrade, Greg McCormack, and I had
Hug the white line. Enjoying Ulleungdo Islands coastal loop road.
10
SPECIAL ISSUE
struggled over Geoje Islands consistent

undulation. (For the purposes of this
story, Greg McCormack will hereby be
referred to as G-Mack: (1) to avoid any
reader confusion with my name, which
also happens to be Gregg but with an
extra g, and (2) because we determined
he needed a nickname after bewildering
hundreds of Koreans with our double
Greg(g) introductions.) Because neither of
us had bothered to train for this tour, we
decided to take the bullet train south from
Seoul skipping over Koreas mountainous interior to cut our teeth along its flat
austral coastline. As our fitness improved,
we would pedal northward to burn our
lungs over whatever geographical challenges the country could throw at us.
But by the time we spotted WooLee on our third day in the saddle, the
southland had failed to deliver the forgiving promise made by our maps widely
spaced contour lines. On the contrary, the
landscape was proving to be a recipe for
salt-stained lycra, four-letter words, and
deflated egos.
So is the rest of Korea this hilly?
G-Mack asked.
Woo had already racked up 1,400
kilometers over a zigzagging north-tosouth traverse of his homeland. He tabbed
through the elevation memory function
on his GPS altimeter watch. With a youthful enthusiasm that reminded me of Dora
the Explorer, he responded, Excellent,
1,600 meters of altitude today, and I have
left 30 kilometers more. No, the rest is not
so hilly. Here is the most difficult cycling
region I experience for Korea.
He handed us two sweet honey candies, speed-typed a few text messages,
and angled his bars downhill.
Okay, I hope we see you guys later. I
go to make my schedule today, he said.
And then he darted off to enjoy Geoje
Islands gentle breeze and infinite Pacific
seascapes, a daydream reserved only for
those fit enough to best its laborious
roadways.
G-Mack and I didnt speak openly
about it, but our route-planning error was
obvious. Clearly, a candy break followed
by a nap on the overlook bench was
required to coax our bodies into ending
their revolt. Moments into our slumber,
my accomplice raised his head in a burst
of positivism. Well, bro, at least we got
to take a ride on that bullet train. And
good God, did you ever expect to find
views like this in South Korea?
ED JENNE
Truth be told high-speed trains,

ultra-tech teenagers, and beautifullychiseled road networks were not what
I expected to find in Korea. At a family
dinner just before my flight, my Uncle
Rick told a story about a Korean couple he hosted through President Jimmy
Carters Friendship Force program. They
all enjoyed strolling along Portland,
Oregons, riverfront and through its rose
gardens, but the most memorable moment
was the mystery behind the water being
turned on and off in the bathtub for
quite a while on the first night. Uncle Ick
(I couldnt pronounce Rs when I was a
tot) debated checking in to see if things
were all right but decided not to intrude.
The next day, he found that his guests
had done their laundry in the bathtub.
Evidently, they were not aware of washing machines, dishwashers, and vacuum
cleaners and were quite fascinated in
learning to use them.
That was some time ago. Maybe
things have changed, he concluded.
My first sense that things had indeed
changed since the days of Carters
Friendship Force came in the form of an
attractive young airport representative
who was awaiting our arrival at baggage claim in Seoul. Greg Gregg?
she puzzled. Ive prepared your luggage for you. Our bicycle boxes were
already stacked on an oversized pushcart.
G-Mack excitedly jumped on the back,
kicked a few times, and glided through
customs like Apollo Ohno over the polished floors.
We efficiently
boarded a public express bus
to within one
block of our downtown hotel. I pinched
myself in disbelief.
Was it that easy?
Later, I learned that
after Seouls airport
had become overloaded during the
1988 Olympics, the
government drafted blueprints for
a new, world-class
hub capable of shuffling 100 million passengers annually by 2020. Initial construction was completed in 2001. With a
connected international business center,
an 18-hole golf course, and a number-one
world airport ranking under its belt, it
has become an economic symbol for all
who go through its gates 21st-century
Korea means business, big business.
More interestingly, for cycling aficionados the Incheon bridge, a $1.5 billion megaproject built to link the airport
to the city center, opened in September
2009 and held a car-free ribbon-cutting
ceremony to announce another form of
progress the governments commitment
to building a national bikeway network.
In a fish chowder joint near the Busan
ferry terminal, G-Mack and I watched TV
coverage of thousands of elated cyclists
rolling across its 7.7-mile span.
Jeju Island. A haenyo (sea woman) matriarch before her morning abalone dive.
Outside the restaurant, a van full of

stunning European
tourists pulled up
to the curb. Upon
further ogling, I
noticed that they
were clad in high heels
and pastel body suits
not your typical travelers
garb. These were Busans working gals. G-Mack and I had unknowingly cycled into the heart of the citys
red-light district for lunch. A banner
strung across the alley should have been
a dead giveaway. In bold letters, it read,
Welcome U.S. Navy.
By then, we had sprouted a bit of
muscle memory and completed our loop
around Geoje Island. In fact, island life
was so pleasurable, northbound migration was postponed to hit Jeju-do, another one of Koreas south-floating gems.
Jeju-do Island drinks like a fine
Bordeaux blend. Coastal panoramas display hints of Big Sur. Volcanic origins
and subtropical climes remind you of
the substratum finish of Hawaii. Shaped
like a spinning top toy, its dominated by
6,398-foot Mount Hallasan, the highest
peak in Korea.
Based in Dallas, G-Mack has made a
career of traveling to far-flung corners
of the planet to lead high-end natural
history expeditions. Jeju-do blipped on
his ecocentric radar the instant Woo-Lee
suggested that it would make a nice addition to our tour. Our aim after wobbling
off the overnight ferry in Jeju City the
28-mile central island road that spirals
3,600 feet up to the mountains Nature
Experience and Cyber-Exploration
interpretive center. In 2002, Hallasan was
awarded UNESCO Biosphere Reserve status because of the diversity of its vertically arranged topography: subtropical,
temperate, frigid, and alpine layers. They
are home to 5,800 species of plants and
animals.
Any good naturalist will say that ears
are as important as eyes. As we ascended
from one zone to the next, G-Mack began
to wiggle his jaw back and forth, clearing
SPECIAL ISSUE
11
Catch of the day. G-Mack checks out the seas offerings at the Jeju City fish market.
12
SPECIAL ISSUE
any pressure in his audio canal that could

possibly have disrupted the frequency to
which he was tuning. He stopped repeatedly to press Texas steak-sized binoculars
into his eye sockets and scribble notes in
an REI weatherproof journal. I watched
in awe as his gifted cochlear nucleus
began to process the secret scores of the
islands ethereal symphony. There were
rustling chestnut and laurel branches,
vociferous brown-eared bulbuls, shuffling ring-necked pheasants, and rattling
black-capped kingfishers. On those final
steep kilometers up Jeju-dos crown, my
cycling companion put his religion on
display and teleported himself into
another universe. Still jovial at dinner
that evening, he mimicked the high twittering call of a Japanese white-eye.
As G-Mack disappeared into his 528page eastern Asia birding book, I was
tending to a more immediate issue
food. You see, my gluteus had nudged
its performance level from Hyundai to
Honda, but I was lacking proper fuel to
tap the extra horsepower. And our server
was crowding the table yet again with
small bowls of kimchi, the countrys culinary pride and joy. For those who have
not had the good fortune of chop-sticking
its slippery morsels, kimchi is a pickled
and spiced vegetable appetizer that was
born in China thousands of years ago.
Koreans adopted the dish and overtime
rendered endless modifications based on
season and region. Its served at truck
stops, five-star restaurants, street stalls,
and home dining rooms. Theres cucumber kimchi, radish kimchi, kimchi stew,
pumpkin kimchi, green onion kimchi,
and stuffed cabbage kimchi, to name but
a few.
The sad reality for a hungry touring
cyclist is that you would have to consume
a Hallasan Mountain of the stuff to match
the high-octane charge of one Chicago
deep-dish slice. Although each variation
thrills with its distinctive savory nuance,
they all eventually lead to an emptycalorie calamity bowl by bowl, flowing
from the same briny inspiration.
Needless to say, another tabletop helping of kimchi left me desperately searching for something to get my oomph back.
I retired to my bedroom at the Jeju hiking hostel on the far side of the island in
Seogwipo. There I resorted to eating the
one American standby that was guaranteed to tuck my stomach in for the night
a Snickers bar. G-Mack stayed behind,
Up, up, and away. Koreas roads are a beautiful showcase of the nations transportation infrastructure.
spending another 30 minutes in the restaurant to slurp down the mucus-textured

innards of a half-dozen sea urchins.
Whether it was pure luck or a blessing from Jeju-dos three demi-gods born
millennia before on the northern slopes
of Mt. Halla, I will never know. But a
phrase I uttered out loud while scanning
the picture menu of lamprey eel on a stick
and snail soup at a breakfast stop the next
morning provided the drill bit required
to penetrate Koreas gastronomic bedrock.

Damn, is there anything on here that
resembles spaghetti?
Spaghetti? questioned the proprietor. Korean spaghetti, yes, have!
She shouted our order to the kitchen
staff (her husband and father) and in a
flurry of clanking pots, steamy eruptions,
and overhead tong twisting, our savior
was plated. It was a carbo-loaded mound
of boiled noodles bathed in sooty fish
sauce and leftover kimchi chunks.

From here on out, the miles blurred by
like the Travel Channel on fast forward.
Observations were made from the comfort
of a bicycle lane running parallel to the
113-mile coastal road. There were skindiving haenyo (sea woman) matriarchs
bobbing between plunges to pick abalone off the sea floor and Sangumburi
Crater, an extinct volcano that jets out of
the sea on the islands southeast side.
SPECIAL ISSUE
13
A little R&R. Taking a rest from undulating roads at an overlook above Sinseondae Bay.
around the parks colorfully lit reflection

ponds. Young couples nuzzled each others
necks, old men stuffed their pockets full
of loose chestnuts, and crickets buzzed
and chirped. A family from Seoul asked
me to take their picture. The father posed
proudly with his two teenaged daughters
and wife. I jokingly counted, One, two,
kimcheeeeeee. The girls giggled on cue

as I pushed the button.
Whats odd is that underlying the
peaceful serenity of Gyeongju is an unrest
stirred by a long history of conflict. 200
miles northwest of Anapji parks glowing temples, skyscraper lights flickered
in the megalopolis of Seoul. Just a stones
2011 Salsa Cycles
The interior was dotted with Jeju

Tangerines, tiny orbs organized between
small stone walls. They were more succulent than a French kiss at summer camp.
Natures splendor, enslaved by humandirected genetic tinkering to eradicate
hard-to-peel husks and pesky seeds, and
leaving not a single distraction from the
juicy sweet goodness within. I bought a
box from a roadside vendor, ate a dozen
on the spot, and buried the rest in my
panniers between my electric toothbrush
and French press.
With bellies full of citrus fruit, we
rejoined the mainland and headed north.
The hills were longer but more gradual,
allowing time to find our rhythm and relax
over the gentle grades. Descents were
measured in minutes rather than seconds.
Our target destination was Gyeongju, the
countrys cultural capital. Evidently, the
place is a big deal because it was the hub
of the ancient Silla Kingdom. But, if you
want to learn more about Silla, look elsewhere because I was more interested in
their living descendants.
At a twilight concert in Anapji park,
break dancers amused the crowd to
the rhythm of an electric string band.
Between sets I walked the loop trail
BELIEVE
Big Sky country. Jasons Fargo takes a break

while doing some two-track exploration outside
Missoula, Montana - Photo by Gnat
Bike shown - Fargo
14
SPECIAL ISSUE
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We make bikes to help you get there.
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Korean smorgasbord. G-Mack digs in at a table dotted with kimchi and other local delicacies.
throw away, across the demilitarized zone

in North Korea, a dictator stands ready
to push another kind of button, one that
would launch a horrific attack from most
the heavily fortified border region in the
world. Its an arsenal so powerful and
potentially swift that it would destroy
the citys greater metropolitan area in less
than 10 minutes.
Maybe it was because of these images of war, or the fact that G-Mack had a
few hundred pages of birds left to identify, that instead of finishing our tour
in the nations capital, we re-routed to
Ulleungdo Island a remote outpost
75 miles off Koreas west coast. To get
there, we needed to hammer out consecutive 80-mile days across the countrys
largest province, Gyeongsangbuk-do.
The region is known for its excellent
Bindae Duk pancakes and bibimbap
(rice with veggies) so we moved along
nicely camping in river valleys and
freewheeling past chile pepper farms,
grape orchards, and mining communities. Towns were fortified with coffee
vending machines and rows of numbered apartment towers. Stamped on
the sides of these concrete eyesores

were the bright blue logos of Koreas
financial kingpin the indomitable
Samsung Group.
In 2008 Samsungs revenue was 173
billion dollars 32 percent of the
Nuts & Bolts: Kimchi Trail

Getting There:
Touch down at the worlds #1 ranked
airport, Incheon International. Englishspeaking staff at the information booth
will help organize limo-bus transport to
downtown Seoul (45 minutes). Singapore
Airlines offers non-stop flights from the
west coast and get ready meals, all
you can drink, unlimited moist towelettes,
and two free pieces of checked luggage,
one of which can be a standard-sized
bicycle box.
When to Go:
Late September and October is a great
time to cycle Korea. Catch the brilliant
show of fall colors in Seoul and the mountainous north and discounted accommodation prices during off-season in the south.
Last Minute Tune-Ups:

Fuji Bike Yongsan Shop (Tel 02-7963627) Located 300 meters to the north
from the northern end of the First Han
River Bridge in Seoul. The shop is popular
with U.S. military and expat cyclists.
Yongsan MTB (Tel 02-792-1832) Just
outside Exit 5 of Samgakji Station in Seoul
(lines 4 and 6). The owner, Mr. W. K.
Lim speaks English and is highly recommended by locals.
Go with the Experts:
David Mozer organizes small group bicycle tours in South Korea. He knows his
kimchi and guarantees that on his tours,
the dining experience will be more than
fire and pickled radish.
Check out www.ibike.org/ibike/korea.
SPECIAL ISSUE
15
Some like it hot. The guys take a break to sample drying peppers of the nightshade family near Gyeongu, Koreas cultural hub.
countrys exports that year. Although

the company has its fingers in a little bit of everything, its best known
for flat-screen TVs, mobile phones, and
home appliances. In 2005, it blew by its
Japanese rival Sony as the most popular

global consumer electronics brand. In
2007, it smashed Americas Motorola,
becoming the worlds second largest cellphone manufacturer. If Samsung were a
Ooh, ooh that smell. Strung out Cephalopods on Cuttlefish Island (Ulleungdo).
16
SPECIAL ISSUE
country, it would have a larger economy

than Argentina. The summary line of its
2010 UBS research initiation document
reads, Gap with competition will widen
more significantly than in prior cycles
Buy. Perhaps Uncle Icks Korean guests
brought the idea of washing machines
back to the companys executive team
who have since trumped the world in
their production.
The high-speed catamaran to Ulleungdo
Island motors 75 miles over the oft nauseating swells of the East Sea. The day of
our passage was no exception, and the
cabin echoed with the vomiting heaves
of 200 passengers. Fortunately, our island
hops in the south had inoculated us
against the epidemic. I walked aftward
to make sure our bikes were secure
and struck up a conversation with the
only other passenger on board (besides
G-Mack) who seemed to be functioning
properly Mr. Cho.
Ahhh, touring bicycles! he
exclaimed. Ive always wanted to take a
bicycle tour across the United States
maybe go to Yellowstone. But my profession would not allow it.
Mirror, mirror on the road. Gregg catches G-Macks image in reverse.
I took the bait. What was your profession? I obliged.

I am embarrassed to tell you right
now just look at my family.
He signaled to a bench seat over his
shoulder. His daughter, son-in-law, and
grandchildren were hunched over in the
clutches of seasickness.
I was an admiral of the Korean Navy,
he admitted, and Id like to buy you
lunch.
Captain Lee, the senior Korean military
official of the East Sea, had a car ready for
us at the Ulleungdo pier. We were ushered to a small restaurant where Admiral
Cho plied us full of oyster soup and
atomic bombs a shot glass full of
Shoju whiskey dropped into a 12-ounce
beer to be slammed without breaking
your lip. We discussed disc breaks, leather saddles, and touring routes across
North America.
At first, I thought it was the Shoju
when I looked out the window and saw
a cartoonish character on a bright red
touring bicycle grinning up the street.
However, my sobriety was quickly
confirmed when Woo-Lee waved at us
through the window, checked his GPS

watch, and spun on by.
After lunch, G-Mack and I buzzed
around the islands 40-mile road network
a showcase of transportation infrastructure, with five tunnels and a section
that corkscrewed up and over a towering
cliff face. It was a sunny day, and fisherman strung their odorous cuttlefish harvest out to dry on the roadside. We spent
the penultimate eve of our tour camped
on a bulkhead watching the offshore
lights of cuttlefish boats twinkling on
the horizon.
After taking the bus back to Seoul, I
met an American named Tony near the
bus station. He was working at a local
high school, one of the 20,000 foreign
English teachers recruited annually by
the governments aggressive education
system. Its a great gig with salaries that
can exceed those of teachers in the U.S.
He offered to show us a good time in the
citys happening Hongdae district. That
evening, we strolled down alleyways
mixed with street performers, expats,
well-heeled Seoulites, and Netbookclutching students. Shoju flowed, the
club-hopping intensified, and our revelry advanced into a haze of disco balls,
camera flashes, and sticky dance floors.
Koreas economy was on the uptick, the
party was big, and nobody was holding
back.
The next morning, I found myself
hunkered over the hotel-room bathtub
washing a fresh set of clothes for my
flight home. The shower had seven
nozzles to rinse my garments clean.
There was an electronic dashboard on
the toilet with dials that individually controlled seat, bidet stream, and
air-dry temperatures. In the midst of
wringing out my socks in this hightech wonder closet, I couldnt help but
think, Uncle Ick, if you could only see
me now.
Gregg Bleakney is a writer and photographer with a
storage unit based in Seattle, Washington. Hes currently working on a bike-culture project in Mumbai,
India. For more about what Greggs up to, check out
www.gBleakney.com.
SPECIAL ISSUE
17
THE
SECRETS
OF GOING SMALL
Short, near-home
tours can be a
great way to go
Story
and photos
by Russ
Roca
18
SPECIAL ISSUE
t first blush, bicycle touring can seem daunting.

Especially when reading about epic treks in
far-flung locales. Many
would-be tourists are stopped dead in their
tracks when contemplating bike equipment, logistics, camping, and the physical
demands involved in touring.
But heres a secret: not every tour has to
be an epic undertaking. If you wait until
you have enough time off from work, or
the perfect bike, or the lightest tent, or for
every star to align to do that dream tour,
youll never leave.
The key is to just get out there and do it.
This isnt always as easy as it might seem, of
course, and the biggest obstacle to bicycle
touring is often just getting out the door and
pedaling that first mile. After that, its all
downhill figuratively speaking, of course.
This is why quickie tours of one or a few
nights can be the perfect way for beginners
to get started and for veterans to bring the
adventure of bicycle travel into their regular lives. After all, its a lot easier for most
people to find time for a two- or three-day
trip than a two- or three-month trip.
Touring comes in various sizes, from
S24Os (sub-24 hour-overnights), to openended, multi-year adventures, and everything in between. Im a big advocate of
short tours, or trips that last anywhere from
three to 10 days. Theyre longer than overnighters but shorter than two weeks, and
let you cover enough ground so you feel
youve gone somewhere without the huge
time commitment longer tours require.
My girlfriend and I have done several short tours over the years, exploring
local state parks and taking nibbles out of
Adventure Cyclings Pacific Coast route.
Each short tour lets us test out our gear
and refine our techniques. Three days into
a short tour is just long enough that youre
able to shed your former self and feel like
an adventurer.
Existential Gear Crises

Ill let you in on the big secret about
gear: there is no perfect bike, both panniers and trailers will work fine, and the
best tent is the one you have when the rain
starts coming down. Some equipment is
more nicely designed or more comfortable
than others, but just because you cant
afford the absolute top-of-the-line gear
shouldnt stop you from hitting the road.
Perhaps the most essential ingredient to
bicycle touring is, of course, the bicycle.
There are many great new bicycles on the
market designed specifically for touring,
and while bicycles designed for touring
are great, you dont necessarily need a
brand new bike to tour. Remember, the
goal is to get on the road and to not fuss
and fret indefinitely over the details. The
right bike for you may already be in your
garage or just a Craigslist search away. This
is the beauty of the short-tour format
since you arent riding for months at a
time, you dont need the absolutely perfect
bike. Many older bikes that have been reasonably maintained will do. Older mountain bikes with braze-ons for racks make
excellent tourers because they are already
equipped with low gears. Older steel road
bikes that can take a rear rack also make
great tourers (though some modification of
the gearing, i.e. lower gears, may be necessary if youre riding hilly terrain).
In addition to the bicycle, the means to
carry your gear is the other essential ingredient to touring. A holy war rages over
which of the two major methods is better:
panniers or trailers. Either side of the cargocarrying divide will wax eloquent about
why their chosen method is superior. For
a short tour, rest assured that either will
work admirably.
If you plan to go the pannier route,
youll need racks that are able to carry the
load you are packing. Racks and panniers
run the gamut from inexpensive commuter
setups to bombproof expedition rigs. If
youre doing a short tour and the weather

looks good, you can have a wonderful touring experience with a simple inexpensive
bike-commuter setup (basic rack and two
panniers). For the do-it-yourselfers, there
are even instructions online for constructing your own panniers using kitty litter
boxes or oyster buckets!
Trailers are another great way to carry
gear on tour. One advantage of using a
trailer is that they can be attached to most
bicycles. Racks require special braze-ons
to work while trailers attach to the bicycle
either by clamping to the rear triangle of
the bike or latching on to a special skewer.
You can use specially-designed touring
trailers like the popular BOB and Burley
offerings or you can adapt a childrens
trailer for touring use. Childrens trailers
tend to be more readily available and can
often be found in thrift shops and garage
sales for a song. One added benefit of using
a trailer is you can use any old duffle bag
you already own and toss it in the trailer
without buying specialized bags.
Riding the Pacific Coast this summer, I
saw myriad bikes, from fully-loaded Long
Haul Truckers, custom handmade lugged
bicycles, to someone who was touring on a
Schwinn Continental the veritable boat
anchor of the bicycle world and all of
them were having the time of their lives.
Remember, the goal here is to grab your
bike (whatever bike it may be) and go!
To Camp or Not to Camp
Heres the secret of camping while on
tour: you dont have to. Many cyclotourists cherish camping as an integral part of
the experience, but for those who prefer
to sleep indoors, there are many excellent
options. B&Bs and privately-owned inns
are a great way to add a touch of refinement
and comfort to the rigors of bicycle touring. If youre on a budget, cheap motels are
a perfectly suitable option remember,
every room looks the same after you close
SPECIAL ISSUE
19
your eyes. Youth hostels can also be great

places to stay and meet fellow travelers,
and some offer private accommodations
that are competitively priced when compared to motels and hotels.
WarmShowers.com is a great resource
that helps bicycle tourists find homestays
while on the road. Members are encouraged
to reciprocate by offering accommodations

when they arent traveling. Ive stayed with
a few WarmShowers.com hosts and it has
been a delightful experience, since many
have toured before and are a great source of
information and tips for the region.
Lets not forget your family and friends
(and friends of friends) also make great possi-
Eating well. Short tours make it easier to load up on veggies.
ble homestays. By making a few quick phone

calls or sending out emails to people you
already know, you may be able to find a guest
room or futon on every step of your journey.
The Kit and Kaboodle
Your choice of whether you are going
to camp or not will greatly determine what
you will need to bring. For those staying
indoors, youll need little more than riding
clothes, street clothes, some basic repair
tools (enough to change a flat and tighten
bolts on your bike), your debit card, and
a sense of adventure. Be sure to check the
weather report before you go on your trip
so that you pack the appropriate layers and
are prepared for inclement weather.
If you are going self-supported and
plan to camp, youll need a tent (or if the
weather looks good you could just sleep
under the stars), a sleeping pad, sleeping
bag, and stove and cooking utensils if you
plan to cook your own meals. Remember,
since you arent going out for more than a
few days, you can get along fine without
expedition-grade gear. Even if youre a little
uncomfortable, itll only be for a few days
and you can always weave it into your tales
of daring.
Its a good idea to make sure your bike
TRAVEL-SET
Waterproof Bicycle Touring Set
5 Ye a r Wa r r a n t y
Made in Germany
www.ortliebusa.com
Bike-Tourer model rear

panniers including antitheft device
Travel-Biker rack-top case
Ultimate5 Plus handlebar
bag, size M
All products are also
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Total Volume 4638 cu.in.
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20
SPECIAL ISSUE
Pit stop. On trips short or long, convenience stores live up to their name for the cyclotourist.
is in good working condition before you

leave. A bicycle that has been tuned up and
looked over by a good mechanic prior to
leaving is much less likely to have problems
while on tour. If your bike is in good shape,
a short tour shouldnt stress the frame or
its components to the breaking point. You
should, however, know how to change a
flat, the most common bane a tourist will
encounter. Ask a mechanically-inclined
friend or your local bike-shop mechanic to
give you a walk through of some basic bike
maintenance.
A journal and a camera are an absolute must when going on your short tour
how else will you make your friends
envious of your adventure? Tech-savvy
tourists may opt to bring a smartphone or a
netbook to journal or blog about their trip.
For a more in-depth packing list,
check out the How-To Department of the
Adventure Cycling website.
Planning Your Route
Now that you have your bike and youve
figured out how youre going to carry your
gear, where should you tour? For those
that like to camp, areas around state parks
and forests are wonderful areas to tour. If
youre not fortunate enough to live close to

an Adventure Cycling route, Bikely.com is
a great way to find touring routes around
your area of interest. Bikely.com is a site
that uses Google Maps to inventory rides
people have done. You can search for routes
by location or by type (road, commute,
touring, etc.). Contacting cycling clubs in
the areas you plan to tour is also a great
way to tap into local knowledge.
Creating a themed tour is a great way to
get others to come with you that may not
necessarily identify themselves as serious
cyclists. You could plan a tour around used
bookshops, breweries, cafes, historic sites,
small bike shops, fishing holes, museums,
or whatever it is that piques your curiosity.
Bicycle touring is a great way to explore the
countryside and turn your personal interests into an adventure. For example, the
first tour I ever took with my girlfriend was
a wine-tasting tour. Inspired by the movie
Sideways, we hopped an Amtrak train
from Los Angeles to just outside Solvang,
California, and rode around beautiful country roads visiting various wineries. We did
it on the cheap, staying in a motel and going
out on day rides with a local map as our
guide. A quick Google search on Solvang
and bicycle brought up lots of recommendations for good roads to ride.

Another important thing to consider
when planning your route is terrain and
mileage, which are inextricably linked
together. Needless to say, it is much easier
to go 30 miles on a flat road than 30 miles
on a road that climbs several thousand
feet. Being able to read maps and knowing
the topography of where youll be riding
will allow you to more accurately gauge
how long it will take you to cover certain
distances. In general, if its your first tour,
a gentler route lets you feel out your bike
and gear without too much suffering. That
said, dont let a few hills scare you! All the
great vistas and rewarding descents are to
be found on top of hills.
Get Outta Dodge
Some of you live in or near dense urban
centers that require lots of stressful city
riding before you can hit any open road.
Living in Long Beach, California, for almost
a decade, it took real commitment for me to
go touring. I would have to ride through
40 miles of urban sprawl before finding a
quiet road. This brings up the question of
how you should start your trip. A short
SPECIAL ISSUE
21
Campsite social hour. Bicycle travelers often meet up for impromptu camp gatherings. This is where the tale grows larger.
tour, as its name implies, is short you

want to spend your time having fun, not
inhaling car exhaust.
If you live close to a rail line, using the
train is a great way to give yourself a little
head start out of the city. Many passenger
train lines offer some acommodations for
bicycles for free or at a fraction of what airlines charge. For example, to take my boxed
touring bike with me from Los Angeles to
Portland, Oregon, on Amtrak cost a mere
$20 for the bike box and handling fees.
Another option is to get a ride via public
transport or from a friend to the outskirts
of town or close to the area you want to
tour. Remember, the point is to have fun!

While being able to ride every mile from
your door is very satisfying, going multimodal and using the train or bus is a great
way to extend your touring range.
Hit the Road ... Now!
For those with limited time and a limited
budget, short tours are the perfect means to
scratch that adventure cycling itch. They
require less time, less gear, and less planning than big trips. You dont have to fret
about whether you have the perfect bike or
perfect gear, because youre not going to be
gone for months at a time. That is the beau-
ty of short tours; because of their shorter

time duration you are more likely to go or
convince your friends to go with you. Youll
be amazed that even though youre gone for
only a few days, youll feel like youve completed a great adventure. Beware, however,
because they do become addicting and are
definitely gateway tours to longer and
longer travels!
Russ Roca, is a freelance photographer and writer who
took one too many short gateway tours and decided
to sell most of his belongings to bicycle around the U.S.
with his girlfriend, Laura.Follow them on www.path
lesspedaled.com.
GLOBAL CYCLING WITH LOCAL CHARACTER

FIND FRIENDLY FACES &
WIDE OPEN SPACES IN
EUROPE
& LATIN
AMERICA
22
SPECIAL ISSUE
www.ExperiencePlus.com
800-685-4565
Connect with
Adventure Cycling Online

Looking for something to do after your cycling adventure? Adventure Cycling Association maintains a
variety of online resources to keep you inspired and educated about bicycle travel.
Discussion Forums bicycle travel topics, gear talk, routes, temporary road closures, regional and
international discussion areas, and more. adventurecycling.org/forums
Adventure Cycling Blog daily updates covering bicycle travel news, touring tips & gear, bicycle
routes, organizational news, tours, and more. blog.adventurecycling.org
Bike Overnights Blog the newest addition to our online lineup, this blog focuses on inspiration,
resources, and tools for short bicycle tours (1-2 nights). bikeovernights.org
You can also connect with us through Facebook, Twitter, Flickr, and YouTube.
Visit our website for links and more information.
adventurecycling.org/connect
SPECIAL ISSUE
23
Cycling Across America

by Jerry Soverinsky
24
SPECIAL ISSUE
Ben Depp
heres something about roundnumber birthdays that prompt

me to action. Like the college
kid who after a semester spent
drinking far too many Jaeger Bombs and
Buds at the expense of memorizing the
Krebs Cycle and Yeats locks himself in
the undergrad library for 96 hours prior
to midterms, I awoke in a panicked sweat
three months shy of my 40th birthday.
With a bucket list of nagging to-dos
weighing on my mind, I determined that
my 41st year would be one of accomplishment.
And so it was that within a five-hour
span the next day, three months shy of
beginning my fifth decade, I gathered the
courage to ask out my trs-pretty French
neighbor, registered for a sculpting class
at a local art school, and announced to my
family in a mass email (and to my friends
later that night over too many scotches),
Im biking across the country.
A lot on my plate to be sure, but my
bucket list was reduced to a manageable
size of one in very short order. I received
an instantaneous and giggle-infused,
Non, merci, from Jeanette. An unfortunate incident with my water bottle
and a 1,600-degree kiln precipitated my
humiliated withdrawal from the sculpting
course during its introductory session.
And because sky diving (fear of heights)
and buying a comically small sports car
(fear of acting like a jackass) were impractical alternatives to either, it left me with
just one turning-40 aspiration: cycling
across the U.S.
Getting Started
Soon after my trip announcement, I
began logging 65-hour work-weeks at a
temporary job, piling up hours in order to
save money. The monotonous routine left
me little time to focus on trip-planning
logistics, a dereliction that bred hesitation.
May came and went, as did June. Was
the trip going to happen? Clearly, sculpting and Jeanette were not in my post-40
future, and I needed to become proactive
to attain at least one of my midlife goals.
So I took action.
Just before Independence Day, I
purchased a one-way airline ticket to
Portland, Oregon. It was a non-refundable
fare, the $240 financial motivation I needed to push my trip departure to the point
of no return (figuratively I sincerely

hoped not literally).
Next, I purchased an armful of
Adventure Cycling maps, piecing together
a route that began in Seaside, Oregon,
and finished near Portland, Maine. There
was nothing magical about the itinerary.
I wanted merely to travel through states
I had never seen, cycling west to east to
take advantage of what a friend assured
me were the prevailing wind directions.
(NOTE: The west-east wind advantage theory has been disproven. No matter which
direction you travel, expect localized and
unpredictable wind patterns.)
While I had extensive trip planning
experience and could have built a custom
route by contacting state bike coordinators, bike clubs, and bike advocacy
organizations (which can all be found
in Adventure Cyclings online Cyclists
Yellow Pages), I chose to follow Adventure
Cycling maps. Their comprehensiveness
saves tons of research time and effort.
(And in my opinion, theyre grossly underpriced, too shhhh.)
Pace Yourself
Based on my previous self-contained
touring experience, I had a vague idea of
my trips pace 70 to 80 miles per day
but I was not bound by a schedule.
(Did I mention I was 40, single, and unemployed?) Armed with Adventure Cycling
maps that included detailed lodging notes,
I would plan each days ride the evening
prior, taking into consideration weather,
terrain, and my energy level.
While to some, this might come across
as annoyingly laid-back, finalizing overnight stops weeks in advance is impractical. Too many factors weather, your
health, mechanical problems can affect
each days ride, so its nearly impossible to
fix a long-term itinerary (a broad timeline,
yes; a daily itinerary for two months, no).
As for daily riding distances, this is of
course personal and will reflect your fitness level, pace, and touring objectives.
Many people find 50 to 70 miles per day
to be a comfortable daily distance, though
Ive met other cyclists who, owing to time
constraints or competitive motivations,
averaged a century ride or more each day.
When to Go
I began my trip in late July, though
many cyclists who follow the Northern
Tier or TransAm routes leave far earlier,

taking advantage of cooler May and June
temperatures. While I indeed encountered
extremely hot weather when I set out in
late July, I didnt reach New England until
the early fall, which presented exceptionally beautiful colors accompanied by
nearly ideal cycling temperatures.
If youre following a southern route,
avoid the summer months, as oppressive
heat and humidity will make bike travel
uncomfortable if not dangerous.
Pack Rat
Less than a week before my departure, I purchased a new touring bike and
panniers and began assembling gear and
equipment. The magnitude of my adventure began to dawn on me, and a wave of
anxiety at being alone over such a great
distance prompted me to overcompensate
a desire to be self-sufficient. I wanted to
have everything on hand just in case.
Just in case I couldnt find a store.
Just in case my bike broke down in
a desert (not that my route came within
1,000 miles of one).
Just, well, in case.
So I packed. And I packed. And when
I couldnt pack any more into my panniers, I purchased a bike cargo trailer, and
I packed some more.
When I arrived at Chicagos Midway
Airport, my gear and equipment tipped
the scales at 212 pounds. That included a
nine-pound laptop computer, 21 changes
of clothes, four pairs of shoes, and a
mobile bike shop (complete with frame
and floor pump, hub and headset wrenches, and 12 tubes).
Its not that I shouldnt have known
better. I had guided more than 100 cycling
trips over the past 20 years (I was a bike
tour company owner!), so I understood
the logistics of bike travel. But when you
combine intense anxiety with a loathing
for doing laundry, thats what you get:
212 pounds.
After 10 days of masochistic punishment culminating with a terrifying downhill (375 pounds bike plus me creates a lot of momentum thats difficult to
stop when its screaming down a mountain
at 30 miles per hour), I shipped more than
80 pounds of gear and my bike trailer
home. It eased my riding considerably,
though my thighs had already reached
East German weightlifter proportions.
SPECIAL ISSUE
25
my cargo-trailerequipped new bike.

Although I wasnt in great cycling
shape, I was fairly active so I was confident especially with my bike-touring
experience that I could ease my way
into the tour, strengthening the requisite
muscles en route.
Bad mistake
Proper preparation should include
several weeks of cycling with a bike
loaded with gear as close to touring
conditions as possible. Theres no pre-
Own the road. Cross-country riders get used to this view when pedaling the heartland.
Up to the Task
From a physical perspective, I believe
that most reasonably active people can
complete a cross-country bike trip. I base
this conclusion on more than 20 years
of experience guiding bike trips and
working as a group fitness instructor for
several years.
However, and heres the qualifier: to
maximize your enjoyment or more
accurately, to minimize your physical
discomfort you should adequately
prepare for the challenge. Take it from
me, I learned the hard way.
Altogether in the month prior to my
departure, I cycled 24 miles. And that
includes the four miles that I test-rode
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SPECIAL ISSUE
scribed distance or duration; just ride

enough that you feel completely confident in your ability to handle your bike
and awake the next morning refreshed
and strong enough to do it all over again.
In my case, while most of my muscles
indeed adjusted quickly, my biggest muscle, alas, required weeks of acclimation.
Taking a Seat
And so it was that I found myself
browsing the aisles of a small-town
Montana Safeway less than two weeks
into my trip, searching for an ointment
that would relieve my chaffed rear end.
After much deliberation, I settled discreetly on diaper-rash cream. Is this
suitable for a teething two-year old,

I asked the check-out clerk, a 24-yearold woman I would never meet again
but who I desperately hoped would not
think I planned to use the cream for my
personal use.
After two days of intensive use, my
butt was recovering nicely. And to ensure
that my rash didnt return, I obsessively
applied the thick, white zinc oxide several times daily. Finally, nearly three weeks
into my trip, after shedding more than 50
percent of my gear and with a bottom that
was now baby-smooth (if not calloused),
cycling was non-excruciating.
Tending to your bottom region should
be a huge priority on a cross-country trip,
and you can do much to diminish the risk
of discomfort. That includes adequate
pre-tour training, making sure youre
comfortable with your bike seat before
setting out, and applying chamois butter
liberally before every ride, especially in
warm weather (though having used both
chamois butter and diaper-rash cream, I
can attest that both get the job done).
Eat. Sleep. Repeat.
Where you sleep and eat will be your
trips primary logistical concerns, driven
by your budget and comfort preferences.
(Adventure Cycling maps detail facilities
along every route, including both camping and indoor lodging options.)
Commercial campgrounds can range
from rustic plots of land that lack running water to commercial venues offering every conceivable amenity, with perperson pricing that averages roughly $10
per night.
Indoor options are plentiful along the
majority of routes, though variety and
choices are nearly always modest. As
such, youll find ample Super 8 motels and
EconoLodges, not Hiltons and Marriotts.
Costs range from $45 to $75 per night
and are usually assessed per room, which
means youll bear the entire cost if traveling alone, but half that when traveling
with a companion.
Youll have the option of preparing
your own meals or dining at restaurants
nearly every day, though like lodging,
variety is often limited. Restaurants are
nearly all local diners or fast-food chains,
with the occasional Applebees or Chilis
as you approach larger towns.
In addition to an energy bar or fruit
every couple of hours on my ride, I would
stop for lunch in the late morning or early
Jason George
My resulting load included five

changes of clothing, rain gear, toiletries, basic bike- repair equipment (three
tubes, tire tools, a multi-tool, extra
brake shoe, four spokes, and a frame
pump), a cell phone and charger, firstaid kit, front and rear panniers, a handlebar bag, and bike maps. (Note: a suggested packing list at www.adventure
cycling.org/features/packing.cfm will
spare you my trial-by-error approach.)
Despite what I wanted, it turned out
to be all that I needed.
afternoon at whatever facility was most

convenient. Over time, I tended to favor
gas stations because they allowed me to
watch my bike when I shopped (always a
concern when all of your belongings are
visible to passersby) and talk freely with
the locals (amazing how many people stop
to chat at a gas-station entrance when
they see you dripping sweat and gulping
a Gatorade, leaning against a bike loaded
with gear).
Sandwiches or cans of SpaghettiOs
were convenient, carb-intensive, and relatively easy on my stomach. I once ate
a four-burrito lunch at a Montana Taco
Johns although I regretted it less than
one hour later.
I recommend carrying at least a days
supply of emergency food, a strategy
that served me well one day in Montana,
where 105-degree heat forced me to stop
unexpectedly for the night at a remote
campground. The campground lacked a
store and I was unable to cover the 25
miles to the nearest market, so a can
of SpaghettiOs, two oranges, and four
energy bars comprised a basic but very
welcomed dinner.
For overall trip budgeting, expect to
pay $20 to $35 per day total if youre
camping and preparing your own food,
and $65 to $125 per day if sleeping
indoors and eating dinners at restaurants.
Including a weeklong kidney stone
outbreak just after Labor Day, I reached
Maines coastline the first week in
October, 72 days after departing from
Oregon.
Heavy construction lined the road as I
approached the Atlantic, though for the
last mile or two of my journey I heard
nothing but the sound of my worn tires
rolling across pavement as a flurry of trip
memories flashed through my mind.
Ask any passionate bike traveler, and
they will tell you the physically active
pursuit of adventure and exploration is
best described as a need, an endless
pursuit that continually seeks greater
rewards. Im no different. Since my first
bike trip a quarter of a century ago, the
question was not whether I would one
day cycle across America, but when.
And in my case, all it took was a round
number to get me started.
Jerry Soverinsky guided European bike trips for 20
years and is now a freelance writer living in Chicago.
He is the author of Cycle Europe: 20 Tours, 12
Countries.
The evolution of bicycle safety.

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SPECIAL ISSUE
27
The Final Mile
touring the commute

The call of the bike trip is finally answered
by Audrey Medina
You know spring has finally arrived in Northern California

when the cyclotourists begin to appear along the American River
Parkway. Where are you going with all that stuff? I ask them.
the Guy West Bridge.

My commute between Folsom and Sacramento
State is a small slice of Adventure Cyclings
Western Express route from San Francisco
to Pueblo, Colorado. Depending on
where I start, I can follow the Jedediah
Smith Trail for 15 to 22 miles along
the American River through a series
of connected parks. Downstream,
the trail winds through the
pine- and cottonwoodcovered hillocks of
cobblestones left over
from gold-dredging operations. There are big stands
of riparian oak and open
fields filled with deer, wild
turkey, quail, hawks, and another hundred species of birdlife.
Ive seen coyotes, rattlesnakes, beaver, a river otter, and even a
bobcat.Its a year-round thrill ride, with new surprises every
time I ride.
In winter, drops of fog zing through my headlight beam like
meteors. Approaching riders are halogen sprites, meandering
toward me, then shooting by, then vanishing.
One foggy Sunday morning, a congregation of about 50
people dressed in white gowns gathered in the mist. As the
preacher prayed and dunked the new members, the congregation swayed and cried Hallelujah! For the rest of the day, the
baptism scene from Oh Brother, Where Art Thou? and Alison
Krauss singing Down to the River to Pray ran nonstop in my
head.
Yellow rafts float down the river on hot summer afternoons,
filled with sunburned teenagers and life-jacketed families.
One day, from a bridge between two parks, I saw an enormous
woman standing hip deep in the river. She splashed around
with abandon, joyous among the anglers, rafters, sunbathers,
kids, and dogs. She was completely naked.
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The cyclotourists increase their presence as spring

unfolds, and by the middle of summer, group tours
are passing through. Pardn, says a man
with a heavy French accent behind me, and
then, Bonjour. A man on a recumbent,
followed by seven or eight other riders,
cruises around me. Some of them wear
jerseys that say Sierra to the Sea.
Next year, I think, maybe Ill follow
them to the sea. My wanderlust grows stronger; I want
to keep pedaling past the
end of the trail to the edge
of the continent, turn right,
and keep pedaling. I want
to be one of the cyclotourists. But not today. Not this
year. Maybe next year. Maybe after I retire. Maybe never. How
could I, really, with no money, no time, and no one to go with?
Im too old. My friends already think Im nuts, and wow, the
excuses just dont stop, do they?
Ive been on a few group tours and loved them all. The
food is good, the company great, the route sheets have all the
rest stops highlighted, and there is always a SAG wagon. But
recently Ive been craving cycling at my own pace, making my
own route, and my own rest stops.
Bike-travel books kept piling up on the coffee table, and
finally, Anne Mustoe knocked some sense into me. From a tour
bus in India, she spotted a lone European man cycling across
the Great Thar Desert in India and decided to pedal around the
world. At the beginning of A Bike Ride, she wrote, I was not
athletic. I was not young. I had never been a keen cyclist. I had
no idea how to mend a puncture. I hated camping, picnics, and
discomfort. In fact, my qualifications for an arduous cycle-ride
were minimal. After a year and nearly 10,000 miles she
wrote, Fear is a state of mind, not a building you hide in. She
still had no idea how to fix a flat. I feel ridiculous. I put some
GREG SIPLE
New York. Georgia. Seattle, they say. Have fun, I say. And Good luck!
I want to go with them to all of those places. Today, though, I have a meeting at
9:00 am. But its getting harder and harder to make that turnoff to my office across
backpacking gear into my commuter

panniers and off I go.
Ive made no reservations. There are
no logistics. Im riding to Lake Solano
County Park, from the foot of the Sierra
to the foot of the Coast Ranges, a flat,
120-mile round trip. Its not an epic
cross-country, world-girdling bookworthy tour, but its what I can do right
now, where I am, with what I have.
I can hear the traffic as I start out,
but after a few minutes all I can hear is
the river and some acorn woodpeckers
squabbling overhead. The air is still, and
the first anglers are casting their lines.
22 miles later, I pass my turnoff at the
bridge. Just like that, easy as pie, Im a
cyclotourist.
After few more miles, I take a
little bridge that leads into downtown
Sacramento. I stop at the Old Soul Bakery
and have a nice visit with some neighborhood folks over coffee and the paper.
Now that Im a cyclotourist, I have that
kind of time.
On my way once again, I pass through
Capital Park and across Tower Bridge. I
catch a nice view of the Delta King and
Delta Queen paddle-wheelers dockside in
Old Sacramento. Ive never moved slowly

enough to see them from the bridge
before, and they look elegant along the
old waterfront.
Cruising the cobweb of bike paths
through Davis, I find a nice spot for
lunch in the shaded garden at Baggins
End, a 70s-era patch of communal domedwellers on the UCD campus.
Oh, hello. Where are you traveling
to? One of the hobbits has emerged
from the fig trees to ask me.
Lake Solano. Just a little trip. A
little trip that no serious cyclotourist
would admit to.
The hobbit laughs, Oh, right up the
road?
Yeah, that Lake Solano. Its just for
one night.
That sounds like fun. Have a good
time. He crosses the garden and heads
toward one of the domes. Who knows,
maybe hes fondling a small golden ring
in his pocket.
I get to the campground in the early
afternoon and set up my tent. I make
a cup of tea and sit at the picnic table
reading and watching the other campers
unload enough supplies to last through
the winter. I take my binoculars to the

lake for a while to look at the flycatchers
and other birds. There are coin-operated
dispensers to feed the rogue band of
peacocks that has lived here for decades.
Good news: If you ever camp there and
you want to wake up at dawn, you wont
need an alarm clock.
The next day I ride home, varying my
route through Sacramento. From now on
my commute will be a little tour, a tiny
vacation a few days a week. Bike touring is a state of mind, not a route sheet to
hide in.
Hey, where you going? It was Al, a
retired bike club buddy, pulling up beside
me on the trail just a couple of miles from
my car. Al logs more riding miles than
just about anyone else in the club.
I just got back, I said, from an overnighter to Lake Solano.
By yourself? Good for you, he says,
Ive always wanted to do that.
Audrey Medina lives in Placerville, California, and
works in Sacramento. Her cubicle walls are covered
with cloth patches for riding in circles 65 to 100 miles
around. Her dream is to be picked up by the cops for
speeding on her bicycle.
SPECIAL ISSUE
29
Travels with Willie
Pedaling Through History

An American cyclist experiences a South African miracle
by Willie Weir
I settled into my seat at a cinema in downtown Seattle and

watched Clint Eastwoods new movie, Invictus. It depicts South
Africas epic run at the Rugby World Cup in 1995, the year after
When I arrived
in Cape Town,
South Africa, in
1995 for what
ended up being a
five-month, 5,000mile bicycle journey, rugby was
the furthest thing
from my mind.
I was there
because an informal poll of dozens of hardcore
travelers Id met
while cycling in
India had ranked
South Africa as
the most beautiful
country on earth.
It didnt take long for me to discover for
myself that they were right: the lush
Cape Province, the stark dry Karoo, the
Drakensburg mountains, the Wild Coast,
the vast game reserves.
Traveling in South Africa was often a
strange combination of fear and hospitality. Everywhere I went I was greeted
with open arms. I never found a reason
to be afraid. But every single day I was
reminded that I should be afraid.
The advice usually came in the subtle
form of suggestions of roads to avoid,
sections of the country to bypass, places
I should never camp. And sometimes it
was blatant,
Avoid the blacks. Theyll
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SPECIAL ISSUE
kill you for that watch on your wrist,

one farmer warned. The government
policy of apartheid had officially ended
with the election of Nelson Mandela,
but the country remained divided. Even
in sport. Whites played rugby. Blacks
played soccer.
Everywhere I pedaled, there were banners and signs about the Rugby World
Cup. South Africa was hosting the event.
Two months into my journey, I cycled
up to a pub in the town of Matatiele at
the foot of the Drakensberg Mountains
to watch the broadcast of South Africas
opening match against Australia.
This burley, barrel-chested man
shouted out at me,

Get in here. The
game is about to
begin. He waved
his arms frantically. Dont lock
your damn bike.
Bring it inside.
The place was
packed. He yelled
over the crowd as
he handed me a
pint of beer.
you
Are
from Germany?
Switzerland? No.
No. England?
Im from the
United States. I
shouted.
Aw, Christ. Then you dont know

rugby. Well, come over here and sit and
watch. Ill buy your beers as long as you
dont root for the Aussies.
The Springboks (South Africas team)
were the underdogs. Everyone in that
pub was rabidly cheering for the Boks,
but everyone admitted that their team
was going to get trounced.
90 minutes later, the Springboks had
won, 27-18. The occupants of the pub
were stunned and elated. This American
cyclist was inebriated, and still having a
difficult time remembering the difference
between a scrum and a try.
Over the next couple of weeks,
willie weir
Nelson Mandela had been elected president. I paid the full Saturday-night, openingweekend, overinflated movie ticket price, but not because Im a big Clint Eastwood
fan or a diehard rugby enthusiast. I was all smiles and goose bumps because I was there.
the Springboks kept winning games

and winning over the hearts of South
Africans, most of whom had never
played or seen rugby.
I read about South Africas victory
over Romania while pedaling in the highlands of Lesotho. I listened to them blank
Canada 20-0 on a radio in the little town
of Nottingham Road.
I knew I had become a true fan when
I feigned visiting a relative at a retirement home near the city of Durban so I
could watch South Africa beat Western
Samoa on the 19-inch color television in
the lounge.
By the time the semi-final match
against France came around, every radio
and TV in the country was turned on
and tuned in. I watched the game with
a black auto mechanic outside the Tip
Top Garage in Ulundi. It was the first
rugby match hed ever watched in his
life. Maybe this country is going to turn
out alright after all, he said after South
Africa won 19-15.
After five weeks, it came down to the
final match. South Africa against New
Zealand, a team that had destroyed all
others theyd so far played, including
a truly humbling 145-17 victory over
Japan.
The people of South Africa were
now officially raving, rabid fans of their
national team. Every village, town, store,
and street corner was abuzz with chatter
about the Springboks. I now knew the
rules, the ins and outs of the game and
the names of just about every player on
the team.
Come the evening of the final match

and I found myself at a game reserve
with no television. I panicked. I was 25
miles away from the nearest TV an hour
before the match was to begin.
A couple of big-bellied fisherman took
pity on a Yank and gave me a lift into
the town of Hluhluwe in their baakie
(pickup truck). We all crammed into the
Hluhluwe Rugby Club 100-plus rabid
South African rugby fans and one
American bicycle traveler.
The energy in the room was electric.
This wasnt just a rugby match. This was
the country of South Africa announcing they were back on the world stage.
South Africa had been barred from the
first two World Cups due to Apartheid.
Few South Africans ever dreamed theyd
witness a black president wearing a
Springboks cap and jersey, greeting
players on the field. Or see a black man
(Chester Williams) star on a traditionally
all-white team.
The chants and singing began long
before the opening kickoff and continued
throughout the game except for gasps
and/or silence when New Zealand scored
or threatened to do so. South Africa led
at halftime 9-6. But New Zealand scored
and the game was tied after regulation.
The game went into overtime and the
barkeep went into overdrive.
Both teams scored penalty goals during overtime and the score remained tied.
Then with about two minutes remaining,
South Africa scored a drop goal to go
ahead. This was almost too much tension
to bear. I witnessed men and women
pleading, on their knees praying. How

much more time, Mr. Ref?
Then a long, drawn out hush came
over the room as a 100 fans held their
breath. The referee raised his arm, indicating the clock had run out and South
Africans everywhere could exhale. The
Springboks had managed one of the
greatest upsets in sports history. The
Hluhluwe Rugby Club erupted with
cheers. Tears of joy flowed and large men
hugged one another and danced silly
jigs.
The national rugby team had surpassed everyones dreams and expectations. But the finest moment of this
historic game didnt come from a rugby
player. It was provided by Nelson
Mandela. A man who had spent 27 years
of his life in prison. When Mandela, the
first black president of South Africa,
walked out onto the field to present the
trophy wearing a Springboks jersey and
cap, he transformed a symbol of apartheid into a symbol of unification.
I walked out of the rugby club, my
ears ringing from the celebration, and
stepped out into a star-filled South
African sky. At that moment I remembered what the mechanic had said:
Maybe South Africa was going to turn
out alright after all.
Willie Weir is a regular contributor to Adventure
Cyclist and is now posting on Adventure Cyclings
blog (blog.adventurecycling.org). His column is titled
Sights and Sounds. Find out more about him at
willieweir.com.
SPECIAL ISSUE
31
Bike Travel 101

by the Adventure Cycling Association staff
Many people like the idea of traveling

by bicycle but dont how to get started.
While experienced riders know the simplicity of bike travel is one of its great
joys, to a curious newcomer the questions and choices can be overwhelming.
Below, we answer some of the common
questions that beginning bicycle travelers
often ask, and provide some tips to demystify cycling.
Who travels by bike?
Traveling by bike appeals to a broad
spectrum of people and there are many
ways to do it. It can be done individually,
with friends, or with a commercial tour
operator. People of all ages, backgrounds,
and regions of the world choose the bicycle
as their favorite means of travel. Adults in
their seventies and children in their teens
(and younger!) have ridden all the way
across America. Bicycle travel is attractive
for many reasons: its an exciting challenge that allows us to explore new landscapes and cultures, build physical fitness,
and experience the joy of breathing fresh
air and meeting new people every day.
Am I in good enough shape?
The good news is that you dont need
to be a super-athlete to enjoy cycling.
However, youll want to spend some time
training on a bike before your trip. The
best thing to do is to be realistic about
what you can do and create achievable
goals. Then, work your strength up to
riding the same daily distances you plan
to cover while carrying the same gear
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SPECIAL ISSUE
you plan to travel with. Youre physically ready if you can do back-to-back
day rides that are as long or longer than
you are planning for your tour, and feel
like you could ride again on the third day.
One of the pleasures of bike travel is that
youll be riding into progressively better
and better shape as you go. For more tips
on physical preparation, see Getting in
Shape for Touring in the online HowTo Department at www.adventurecycling.
org/features/howto.cfm.
How far can I ride in a day?
This varies depending on your overall
fitness, your personal goals, the style of
touring you choose and the terrain.
Here are some tips to plan by. With a bit
of bicycle-specific training, an average
physically fit adult carrying less than 20
pounds of additional gear on their bike
can expect to travel at an average pace
of 65 miles per day on paved roads and
still have time to stop and smell plenty
of roses. With a load of gear totaling 20
to 45 pounds, the average pace to plan
for should be lowered to 55 miles per
day. If the terrain is particularly flat or
mountainous, the average will increase or
decrease accordingly (for mountain-bike
travel, these distances can be cut in half,
or more, depending on the ruggedness of
the terrain).
Experienced bicycle travelers can ride
further, but for most people, planning
to exceed these averages has a tendency
to increase the physical challenge and
decrease the enjoyment. We recommend
that you plan for at least one rest day out

of 10, and carry no more than 45 pounds
of gear and a lot less if you can. Always
plan time in your day, and days off in
your trip, for unexpected challenges and
good opportunities.
What kind of bike should I use?
Many types of bicycles can be used
for bike travel. Although some bikes are
specifically designed for touring, most
quality bicycles can be customized for
touring use, with the exception of road
racing bikes, as they emphasize weight
savings and quick handling over durability and comfort. (Folks do it, but we
dont recommend it for reliability reasons.)
Important characteristics of an appropriate
bike are durability, a comfortable riding
position, and low gears for climbing hills.
The ability to mount racks, fenders, and
wide tires (32 mm or greater) is also a plus.
Experienced bicycle travelers have their
preferences, but there is no single style
of bicycle that is an overwhelming favorite. Ultimately, your choice is based on
personal preference and the type of touring you want to do (paved roads vs. dirt
roads/trails, amount of gear to carry, etc.).
To read more on how to select a proper
bike for touring, visit www.adventure
cycling.org/features/buyersguide.cfm.
How do I decide where to ride?
Besides the obvious scenery, history, and any other personal interests
you have look for low-traffic routes
and/or roads with good shoulders. Keep
WOLFGANG EHN, Courtesy OF Ortlieb Sportartikel GMBH
in mind that many of the places youd

like to see by bicycle, such as national
parks, can be choked with traffic and
undesirable for cycling. Mountain bikers
usually look for routes with little or no
motorized traffic and as little pavement as
possible. The biggest question they need
to answer is usually: Can all of the route
be ridden with a loaded bike or trailer?
Many resources for finding bicycle-specific routes that emphasize safe roads and
rideable trails can be found in the online
Cyclists Yellow Pages. These include:
The 40,000-mile Adventure Cycling
Bicycle Network and touring maps.
State resources, including tourism
agencies, state bicycle/pedestrian offices,
advocacy groups, and local bike clubs.
Local and regional cycling maps and
guidebooks listed under their respective
states and countries. Visit www.adventure
cycling.org/cyp.
How do I carry my stuff?
The most common methods of carrying
gear are panniers and trailers. Panniers
are luggage that attach to your bicycle on
racks that sit over or next to the wheels.
Ortlieb and Arkel are two top-quality
brands. Quality racks are available to fit
nearly every bicycle. Trailers come in
many varieties, usually with one or two
wheels. Most are easy to attach and fit
on almost any bicycle. The BOB Yak/Ibex
and Burley Nomad are both excellent
choices.
Panniers excel on paved-road riding
and single-wheel trailers are at their best
on rough, unpaved terrain, but both can
work well for nearly all types of touring. Personal preference is the ultimate
arbiter.
Where do I stay at night?
First decide if you want to camp (inexpensive, independent, closer to nature)
or stay in hotels (comfortable, less gear
to carry). Tourism agencies, chambers of
commerce, convention and visitors associations, and many internet resources list
information about motels, campgrounds,
B&Bs, and other lodging. Many maps
and guides, including Adventure Cycling
Associations Route Network maps, list
local options.
Is it safe to travel alone?
Yes. Bicycle riders are typically perceived to be very non-threatening and are
often treated warmly by strangers, especially during emergencies. The chances of

something bad happening to you during
a bicycle tour are likely to be no different than they are in your everyday life
at home.
How much does bike touring cost?
The cheapest way to go is to camp and
cook your own meals. Assuming you
have all the necessary gear before you
leave, and you are touring in America,
a budget of $35 a day should be enough

to pay for camping fees and groceries
and still stash a bit away for unforeseen
expenses like repairs or gear replacement. Going dirtbag-style, its possible to
travel on $10 a day or less. For those with
luxury in mind, well, the sky (and your
bank account) is the limit. The beauty of
traveling by bike is that it can be as comfortable or as adventurous as you want it
to be.
Suggested Equipment List

Modify the following list depending on
your personal needs and past experiences.
Keep in mind that you generally wont
need any more gear for a 90-day tour
than for a 7-day tour.
On-the-bike Clothing
Cycling helmet
Touring shoes good for walking as
well as riding, i.e. some flex in the sole
Cycling gloves
Cycling shorts
Socks wool or synthetic (1 to 3 pair)
Leg warmers or tights for riding (rain
pants can substitute)
Short-sleeved shirts (1 or 2)
Light, long-sleeved shirt for layering and
sun protection
Rain gear, jacket and pants (or poncho)
Off-the-Bike Clothing
Comfortable shorts
Comfortable pants (zip-off legs or rain
pants could substitute)
Underwear (1 to 2 pair)
Sandals, flip-flops, or lightweight shoes
Wool or fleece hat
Wool or fleece gloves
Lightweight down jacket (or wool/fleece
sweater)
Miscellaneous
Toiletries
Pocket knife or Leatherman (pliers and
other tools are handy)
Water carrying bladders or containers
at least 1 US gallon capacity
Basic first-aid kit with emergency numbers
Sunglasses
Flashlight/headlamp or candle
Sunblock
Tools and Spare Parts
Tire levers/patch kit
Spare tube (and tire, depending on the
trip)
Mini-pump
Electrical tape
Spoke wrench
Spare spokes sized for your bikes
wheels
Allen wrenches
Screwdriver
Chain tool (or substitute a good multitool for this, allen wrenches, and screwdrivers)
Extra nuts, bolts, and wire (particularly
for racks)
Assorted zip ties
Small chain lube
Hoseclamp
Spare clipless-pedal-cleat bolts
Duct tape (invaluable you can wrap
some around a trimmed straw to save
weight)
Camping
Sleeping bag (down bags are warmer,
weigh less, and pack smaller, but useless
if wet. Synthetic bags are heavier and
bulkier, but less expensive for comparable
warmth and will keep you warm when
wet.)
Sleeping pad (closed-cell foam pads
work well and are light, but self-inflating
pads are more comfortable and packable.)
Tent (lightweight, with rainfly and vestibules.)
Ground cloth (this will extend the life of
your tent)
Personal eating utensils (fork, spoon,
cup, bowl)
Stove (a small backpacking stove with
fuel)
Cooking equipment (small pots and/
or pans backpacking equipment works
best and is lightweight.)
For more Information
Visit www.adventurecycling.org/features/
packing.cfm
SPECIAL ISSUE
33
Mechanical Advantage
Light Weight and Touring

Speed and effort are a simple matter of physics
by Jan Heine
The famous race-car maker Ettore Bugatti once said, Weight is

the enemy. The same is even more true for cyclists. Simple physics
dictate that with increasing weight, bike and rider will accelerate
slower and require more energy when climbing hills or mountain passes at a given
speed. There is little compensation on the downhill. Sure, the heavier bike and
rider will descend a bit faster, but because you spend relatively little time descending,
the time saved is minor.

ing with a partner who climbs
Before we all replace our steel
slower or faster. Cycling can be
n Time up
n Rider/Bike/ n Speed on
bottle-cage bolts with ultralight
become a discouraging experi4% slope
Independence
Luggage
titanium ones, we should evaluence for a slightly slower rider
Pass
Weight
ate how great the advantage
who struggles to keep up, only
of a lightweight bicycle or of
to see the faster rider widen
9.5 mph
2 hours 6 minutes
245 lbs
reduced luggage load really is.
the gap. If you simply redisHow much faster will I be on a
tribute the weight to compenbike that is five pounds lighter?
sate for each riders climbing
9.7 mph
2 hours 4 minutes
240 lb
What happens if I add 30
speed, you will be able to ride
(+ 0.2 mph)
(- 2 min)
(- 5 lb)
pounds to my luggage?
together. When my wife and I
Lets assume you climb
climbed Independence Pass on
8.8 mph
2 hours 17 minutes
275 lb
Independence Pass in Colorado,
our first big tour many years
(- 0.7 mph)
(+ 11 min)
(+ 30 lb)
one of the highest passes in the
ago, I moved her heavy sleepRocky Mountains. Starting in
ing bag to my rack. Removing
Aspen at 7,900 feet above sea
The effect of weight on climbing speed is relatively minor.
10 pounds from her bike and
level, the road climbs for 20 miles
adding it to mine equalized our
until it reaches the pass at 12,093
speeds, and I got a feel for what it
feet. That means the average grade is four up. For bicycle tourists, the time savings
is like to work hard just to keep up.
percent. (There is a great online resource
are less significant. When you consider
Even if lighter weight doesnt make
at www.analyticcycling.com for calculatyour stops to take photos or eat lunch,
you much faster, there are good reasons
ing your speed based on power output,
the lighter bicycle doesnt make much of
to reduce the weight of your bike and
weight, etc.)
a difference any longer.
luggage within reason. A light bicycle
Lets assume you ride a 30-pound
What if you carry an extra 30 pounds simply is more fun to ride. It is easier
touring bike, carry 35 pounds of luggage, of gear, for a total of 65 pounds of lugto balance at low speeds, and it handles
weigh 180 pounds, and put out 250 watts gage? Now you would take an extra 11
better at high speeds. Panniers and racks
of power. When we plug in these numminutes to climb the pass. That still isnt
flex less when they carry a lighter load.
bers, plus some realistic values for wind
a huge difference. Of course, our calcula- A lighter bike is easier to push and carry,
and rolling resistance, we find that it will tion assumes that Independence Pass is
should you need to do so. If you tour offtake approximately two hours to climb
evenly graded. In reality it consists of
road in technical terrain, a lighter bike is
Independence Pass (Table 1).
steeper and less steep sections, so the
much easier to maneuver and control.
If you took five pounds off your bike
actual time differences are likely to be a
A heavier load puts more stress on
and luggage, you would be just two min- bit greater. (The steeper the grade, the
the bikes components. I raced for 10
utes faster on this two-plus-hour climb.
more weight will slow you down.)
years without breaking any components.
If you are racing, losing two minutes
In the end, even a difference of 20
However, on my urban bike, which
means that you are dropped from the
minutes when climbing Independence
carries boxes of books and magazines
lead group and are unlikely to catch back Pass has little effect, unless you are ridover Seattles hilly roads, hub bearings
34
SPECIAL ISSUE
develop play, spokes tended to break

(until I built a 40-spoke rear wheel), and
I even stripped teeth off a freewheel cog.
Hauling 40- to 70-pound loads at low
speeds, I stress bike components more
than I did as a fit Category 2 racer.
Aside from the rider, the biggest
potential for weight savings comes from
luggage. Look at every piece of your gear
and ask yourself whether you need it. Do
you need a fork, a knife and spoon, or
will a spoon alone suffice for the foods
you eat? Do you need a separate can
opener, or can you use the one on your
pocketknife? Do you need a coffeemaker,
or can you drink tea in the morning?
Bring lightweight pants rather than
heavy blue jeans. A wool sweater can
serve as off-the-bike wear but also do
double duty as an outer layer when starting on a cold morning or descending a
mountain pass. Lightweight tents, sleeping bags, pads, and stoves cost more, but
they can save considerable weight and
bulk. If you travel in a group, there is no
need to duplicate tools and heavy spare

parts.
I refuse to get carried away with
weight savings to the extent that the
enjoyment of my tour is compromised.
When touring solo, my luggage, including food and panniers, weighs about 35
pounds. I could reduce that by half if I
used a bivvy sack instead of a tent and
ate freeze-dried food instead of fresh
vegetables, but I like the comfort of a
tent and a good meal after a long day on
the road.
Saving weight on your bike is harder.
If you are concerned about weight, a
trailer is out of the question as it weighs
much more than a set of racks and panniers. Beyond that, a 30-pound touring
bike doesnt have much excess weight.
You could leave off fenders and lights,
but that will make riding much less
enjoyable when it rains or when you
fail to reach your days destination
before dark. If you build a new bike or
replace parts, it is possible to lighten
MANTA
your machine, for example, by using

expensive cold-forged cranks instead
of inexpensive cast ones. However, the
main advantage of quality parts lies in
their strength and durability, whereas
the weight savings rarely amount to
more than a few ounces. Carbon-fiber
parts often are alluringly light, but they
dont hold up well in the rough world of
bike travel. If you get a scratch on your
carbon seatpost or cranks, it may cause
premature failure, and a side trip to a
hospital will really slow you down!
In summary, saving significant weight
on your bicycle itself is difficult without
compromising function and reliability,
but reducing the weight of your luggage
makes your bike handle better and last
longer. The weight savings may not make
you much faster, but you will have a
more enjoyable tour.
Jan Heine is editor of Bicycle Quarterly, a magazine
about the culture, technology, and history of cycling.
For information, visit www.bikequarterly.com.
Photo: Colin Meagher
MANTA
SPECIAL ISSUE
35
Cyclesense
testing, testing,testing
These comfortable bikes have been actively sold to the public for 30 years now
by John Schubert
In the winter of 1980, an odd road-test assignment hit my desk

at Bicycling Magazine: the Avatar 2000 recumbent. It was the
first recumbent sold to the public, and it was my job to review it.
Recumbents had been in the news, of course. During the 1970s, they trounced
upright bikes in time-trial events sponsored by the International Human
Powered Vehicle Association (IHPVA). And it never took long for someone
to dredge up the memory of

Frances recumbent Velocar,
which in 1932 set a slew of
records. The Velocars success led to recumbents being
banned from racing by the
ever-retrogrouch Union
Cycliste Internationale.
But until 1980, you
couldnt go buy a recumbent. You had to fabricate
your own.
Then, a small
Massachusetts company
called Fomac took the
plunge. Their claim to cred- Gardner Martin and the Easy Racer.
ibility was that the Avatar
had been designed by David Gordon
to the Avatars many unique qualities.
Wilson, professor at Massachusetts
It had under-seat steering, connected
Institute of Technology and author of
via an aircraft control rod to the front
the book Bicycling Science.
wheel; the 63-inch wheelbase was
Back then, the bike business was
tandem-length; and my head and eyes
conformist to an extent thats hard
were farther behind the steering axis
to imagine today. If you examined
than I was used to, and I couldnt even
the adult bikes in your favorite shop,
look at my hands.
every one of them would have a top
Over time, comfort came. I found
tube of precisely 1 inch diameter, a
myself U-turning on narrow roads,
down tube of 1.125 inch, and a frame
maneuvering in traffic as I did on a
made from lugged steel. Mountain
standard bike, carrying the Sunday
bikes and aluminum frames didnt
paper under one arm and dancing
exist. The Avatar stood out like a
through its seven-cog half-step-pluspterodactyl at a dog show. People
granny gearing. Most of the time I
didnt even know what to ask about it. logged on the Avatar was night ridI logged a few hundred commuting, and night was problem-free. I was
ing miles on a familiar four-lane comcharmed by the fact that the recummercial highway and slowly got used
bent puts your head in a forward-look36
SPECIAL ISSUE
ing position, rather than a

downward-looking position,
which allows recumbent
riders to see much more
scenery, and my back,
shoulders, and butt were
always comfy.
The Avatar was not a
sales success. Its $1,575
price tag was pretty stiff
in 1980 dollars; you had to
order it sight unseen; and
owners had to put up with
being the center of attention. (Riding one quickly
dispelled the too low to be
seen myth, however. Heads
jerked and jaws dropped, pretty much
without exception.)
The Avatar gave birth to a similar tribute bike, the Ryan Vanguard,
which I reviewed in this magazine in
1989.
My second recumbent road test
happened when I attended a 1981
consumer expo and racing event
in Cleveland. There, I met Gardner
Martin, who had come to show off his
Easy Racer recumbent.
Martins Easy Racer had won firstplace finishes in IPHVA races in 1977
and 1980. (In those races, it had a full
fairing with tiger teeth painted on the
front.) Five years hence, an Easy Racer
named the Gold Rush would be the first
bike to go 65 mph on flat ground, earn
a permanent display in the Smithsonian

Institution, and earn Martin national
prominence far beyond the IHPVA circuit. But this was 1981, and Martin had
nothing better to do than to talk to me.
Was I interested in the Easy Racer?
Sure! I could take photos, maybe do a
road-test article. What sort of test ride
would I do? Martin knew: there was
a six-mile citizens race the next day.
I could ride his bike in the citizens
race!
Id love to tell you I vindicated both
the Easy Racer and my own athletic
prowess by winning the race, but I
think I finished third. (The prize for
third place was a Huffy bicycle!) I
thought third place was pretty good
for riding an unfamiliar recumbent,
considering I was unsure of the steering and slowed down to jogging speed
for the curves.
No Easy Racer rider with a modicum of experience needs to be so
dainty. The Easy Racer, and its nearclone Tour Easy (long wheelbase,
handlebars in front of the rider) are
known for excellent handling. The
head tube angle is 59 degrees and the
fork rake 3.5 inches radically slack
by the standards of most bikes, including most recumbents, but it works
well with the recumbent position to
deliver neutral steering and balancing.
The Easy Racer is easy to corner hard,
despite its 67-inch wheelbase.
I later learned that Martin had been
close to giving up on selling recumbents when he went to Cleveland. Its
been said that the road test I wrote
kept him afloat and paved the way for
his continued success.
The years went by and other
recumbents came and went. The
fully-enclosed Leitra tricycle, which
I rode in Denmark in 1982, is on my
short list of the best utility bikes ever.
The Lightning P-38 had a wheelbase
around 44 inches, removing the toolong wheelbase objection. The Vision
Sabre had the best handling, but then
the company went out of business.
So what conclusions do I draw from
riding all these bikes?
I really like under-seat steering,
because the riders arms can be so
relaxed while exercising vigorously.
The marketplace has not agreed with
On his Avatar 2000, Schubert challenges Jimmy Cool and his TransAm to a race.
my preference, and under-seat steering
bikes are rare today.
On the question of long wheelbases,
I remain undecided. A long wheelbase
costs maneuverability, but on shorter
recumbents, you have to learn to avoid
overlapping your heels with the chainwheel during sharp turns.
And theres the rub: Recumbents
have never decided what they want to
be. On upright bikes (wedgies in the
argot of bent fans), the designs have
The Velocar, circa 1930.

been standardized to a huge extent.
But bent riders are on their own to
pick among vast design differences.
Wheelbases vary over a 20-inch range.
Handlebars are directly or indirectly
attached to the steering, under your
arse, or in front of you. (On one prototype Easy Racer tandem, the handlebars were a pair of side sticks.)
Bike geeks love all this choice. So
much to talk about! Bike salesmen hate

it, because they want the customer
to face the smallest possible number
of decisions between whether to
walk into the store and Mastercard
or Visa. Its a legitimate concern.
Questions can thwart sales.
I have long said that another reason
for the relative obscurity of recumbents was the introduction of the
mountain bike. In the 1980s, the bike
business was barely ready for one
new choice, and the
mountain bike filled
that slot. (Given the
way mountain bikes
cannibalized touring bikes during that
decade, one could
argue we were ready
for zero new choices.)
Moreover, the bicycle
business has its roots
in peoples passions
and the recumbent
is a frontal assault
on traditions wedgie bike drivers hold
dear.
None of this matters if you feel free
to set your own trends in life, and
theres little doubt the recumbents
superior comfort makes it an excellent
choice for those willing to think differently.
Technical editor John Schubert sallies forth from
his website at Limeport.org. You can write to him
at schubley@aol.com.
SPECIAL ISSUE
37
Companions Wanted
Providing partners for tours, domsestic and abroad, since 1978
Australia 2012: June-December I am a

24-year-old male and I want to cycle Australia
in 2012, 14,000 kilometers over a period of
six months. I have done two months cycling
Australia for fun but it was so awesome that it
has turned into a bit of a dream to finish the
ride from Darwin and on to Perth, Melbourne,
Sydney, Brisbane, and Cairns. The more
people the better, for safety and fun. I am on
a budget so I estimate 4,000 AUS dollars for
the whole trip (20 dollars a day). If interested
email von_deuch@hotmail.com.
Southern Tier October 2011 45-year-old
male with a true passion for cycling looking

for riding partner(s) to ride the Southern Tier
starting about October 1. Flexible on total
days but thinking of 65 to 75 from west to
east averaging approximately 65 miles per day,
allowing some days to see things or wait out
the worst weather. Planning on tent camping
most days. Also cooking or not is okay. Im
flexible and willing to comprimise on details
with the right fit. Mostly interested in enjoying each days ride and finishing as friends. If
interested email dstromberg44@gmail.com.
Biking Around Europe on Gap Year Two
18-year-old girls looking to bike-bum around
Europe as part of a gap year after graduating high school this year, either SeptemberNovember, 2011 or February-May, 2012. Both
of us have biked across America before and
miles per day will vary. Looking to have fun
and see as much as we can; lots of camping
and a relatively small daily budget. Looking
for companions who are also graduating this
year and taking a gap year, but others in the
age range are also welcome to email for information: gckk2011@gmail.com.
Chile to California? I am on the road right

now. (Actually, Im kicking back in a little
hotel in Pichilemu, Chile.) I do 60 to 100
kilometers per day. My goal is to see what I
see. I take pictures and Id like to do a little
surfing ... or a lot. Im in no hurry. I dont
like to climb big hills ... well, any hills for
that matter. I have no set itinerary nor time
constraints. Join me for a week or a month or
more. Check out greggferry.com. If interested
email companion@greggferry.com.
Lewis & Clark (Mostly) 2012 June 25 to
August 12. Im a 53-year-old male riding with
my children and friends and would welcome
others who could help with driving a support
vehicle. Will stay mostly in motels. Well ride
the Lewis & Clark route but will visit Mt.
Rushmore and then strike east at Sioux City,
Iowa, and ride to Chicago. From there well
head to the Jersey Shore. If interested email
stephenkb49@gmail.com.
SPECIAL ISSUE
Tour de Tummy Southern Europe
Highlights would be an early September

Athens start, tastes of the islands, then off
to Barcelona via Provence and certainly
Marseille. As we burn through calories,
why not indulge in food and wine appetites?
Expect to meet fellow couch surfers along
this trails-and-rails mosey for unhurried
adventurers. The harried need not apply.
Experienced single male, early 60s. Ive
enjoyed a self-supported coast-to-coast U.S.
tour in 2008 and published a blog at crazy
guyonabike.com. Meet/ride/train summer
in Maine, USA for preparation. If interested
email timmaine@fairpoint.net.
Sierra Cascades North to South
September/October 2011. Minimize Pacific

Northwest rain, clear Tioga Pass before it
closes, and avoid the worst of the Southern
California desert heat. Experienced 56-yearold male cycle tourist seeks companion(s).
Early riser, six to eight hours of riding per
day. Plan on camping. If interested visit
cyclesafe.wordpress.com or email shayford@
san.rr.com.
Thailand South East Asia Looking for
companion(s) for a tour around November

2011. I have two to four weeks to explore
Thailand and maybe the areas of Cambodia,
Laos, and Vietnam surrounding Thailand.
Flexable dates and route. Maybe Bangkok to
Adventure Cycling Guided Tours
38
Chiang Mai or Phuket. Prefer to ride mostly

on road, guest houses, hotels, and hostels.
50-year-old female with some touring experience. From Florida, very heat tolerent.
Looking forward to an awesome and amazing adventure. If interested email nedene@
nedene.net.
Southern Tier Services San Diego I live
along the Southern Tier just east of San

Diego. If you need a ride from the airport, a
companion to guide you through the city, or a
place to pitch your tent, let me know. If interested email cycling2006@sbcglobal.net.
Adventure Cycling Association assumes, but cannot verify, that the persons above are truthfully
representing themselves. Ads are free to Adventure
Cycling members. You can see more ads and post
new ones at www.adventurecycling.org/mag/comp
anions.cfm or send your ad to Adventure Cyclist,
P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807.
adventurecycling.org/tours
Open Road Gallery
love & laundry

by Sarah Raz Photographs by Greg Siple
2004
2009
2001
2010
Although the summer of 2010 was Kristen Moeglings first time visiting Adventure Cyclings
Missoula, Montana, headquarters, Paul Maude was no stranger to the rituals of Polaroid pictures
and complimentary ice cream. The British expat first came through in 2001 as part of an Adventure
Cycling-organized TransAmerica tour when he was 27 (Plan my own route? I got lost going to
the bathroom.) He visited again in 2004 during a truncated Northern Tier tour. In 2009, Paul was
back again, on his way from New Mexico to Banff via the Great Divide.
Paul made lots of discoveries as he grew into cycling. He learned to stealth camp, to read the
weather, and even some lessons on love when he met Kristen at a laundromat in Glacier National
Park. Over drying loads, Paul regaled her with stories of his travels. Although Kristen thought bicycle travel sounded crazy, she threw caution to the wind and decided to join Paul on a bicycle tour
in New Zealand just a few months later. Kristen enjoyed the ride, completing it on a $200 mountain
bike purchased on eBay, but her lack of training was definitely apparent. At one point, she spent
three days lying in their tent because she was literally too sore to walk or move.
Five years later, the now-married couple decided to try another ride, this time from Hamilton,
Montana, to Smith-Dorien, British Columbia, Canada, and back. The trip took a month and Paul
used all his acquired skills to make Kristens life as easy as possible (Coffee! Every morning!)
Kristen didnt know how shed like riding off-road, but she loved being away from traffic and near
wild animals. As a pair, Kristen and Paul have earned their touring wings.
From Adventure Cyclings National Bicycle Touring Portrait Collection. 2010 Adventure Cycling Association.
SPECIAL ISSUE
39
Become an Adventure Cycling Member and you will receive:

9 yearly issues of Adventure Cyclist magazine, including the
Cyclists Travel Guide: Bikes, Resources, & How-to.
Access to over 45 members-only group tours and training classes.
Discounts on our 40,000 miles of bicycle route maps.
Join online at: adventurecycling.org/membership

You can also call us at 800-755-2453, or mail in the form below.
Adventure Cycling Membership Form

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Touring Cross Country

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Adventure Cyclings 40,000-mile

Special Issue contents

Cyclists tour along the scenic

ON THE KIMCHI TRAIL by Gregg Bleakney

The Secrets of Going Small by Russ Roca

Cycling Across America by Jerry Soverinsky

BICYCLE TRAVEL 101 by Adventure Cycling Staff

The mission of Adventure Cycling

Our strategic plan includes three

To join, change your address, or ask

28 The Final Mile / Audrey Medina

30 TRAVELS WITH WILLIE / Willie Weir

39 OPEN ROAD GALLERY

04 LETTER from the DIRECTOR

The call of the bike trip is finally answered

Remembering Springbok fever in South Africa

34 Mechanical Advantage / Jan Heine

Reducing weight will increase comfort while touring

36 Cyclesense/ John Schubert

A look back at Johns recumbent experiences

Letter from the Director

The magic of membership in North Americas

www .adventurecycling. org

dan d'ambrosio nancy clark

sheila snyder, cpa

julie huck amanda lipsey

winona bateman michael mccoy

michael deme greg siple

john sieber richard darne

mo mislivets paul hansbarger

board of dire ctors

jason boucher todd copley

As director of Adventure Cycling Association, I

whether its a quick overnight

North America, and access to affordable

Letters from our Readers

with a longer-term perspective and

minutes to get over that pass. Weight

MAPS, MAPS, MAPS

News you can use from the world of bicycle travel

About two and a half years

Snow bikers enjoy the wide-open views on frozen Lake Baikal.

miles, and reaches a depth of

completed their adventure a

One of the most famous sports champions of his time

lived a life of fame and fortune

Unfortunately, bicycle racings popularity was not to last

U.S. Bicycle Route System

cific routes that connect urban,

the first newly designated U.S.

Waypoints heard recently

oo-Lee looked more like a Little

six-inch frame. His Ferrari red bicycle was

struggled over Geoje Islands consistent

Truth be told high-speed trains,

Outside the restaurant, a van full of

any pressure in his audio canal that could

spending another 30 minutes in the restaurant to slurp down the mucus-textured

to penetrate Koreas gastronomic bedrock.

sauce and leftover kimchi chunks.