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Senior Secondary - T ertiary

33mins
Textile Colouration

Teacher Notes by The Society of Dyers &

Colourists of Australia & New Zealand

Produced by The Society of Dyers & Colourists

of Australia & New Zealand
Distributed by Video Education Australasia

© Video Education Australasia Pty. Ltd.

Suitable for:

Design & T echnology Textiles

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Colouration

ACTIVITY MASTERS
SOCIETY OF DYERS AND COLOURISTS
AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND
 DYEING
D
yeing is the process whereby dye
molecules, thoroughly dissolved or
dispersed in water or some other
carrier, are able to penetrate and colour
textile materials.
Dyeing can be carried out at the polymer, fibre,
yarn, fabric and garment or product stage.
Dyes are substances with a special capacity
for reflecting light. They have a distinctive
structure and are made up of a colour
bearing component called a Chromophore
CLASSES OF DYES
Direct Dyes
Direct dyes are a relatively inexpensive and easy
way of dyeing natural cellulosic fibres like cotton
and regenerated cellulosic fibres like viscose rayon
although they do not have good fastness to washing
or other wet processes. Direct dye molecules are
large and enter the cotton or viscose fibre from the
dyebath seeking a place to bind to the fibre.
Hydrogen bonding and Van der Waals forces help
bind the dye to the fibre.
Fastness properties may be improved by after
treatment – a post dyeing chemical treatment.
Reactive Dyes
Reactive dyes form strong covalent bonds with
cellulosic fibres like cotton and regenerated
cellulosics like viscose rayon. The formation of the
covalent bond between dye and fibre means
reactive dyes give extremely high wash and wet
fastness properties.
and an Auxochrome which gives a dye its
solubility and ability to attach itself to a fibre.
Dyestuffs can be grouped according to the fibres
with which they can be used. Different dyes are
attracted to different fibres. The strength of the
dye-fibre attraction is called “Affinity”.
Each class of dye has a unique chemistry,
structure and way of bonding to the fibre.
Some dyes react chemically with the fibre
forming strong bonds – others are held by
physical forces.
Vat Dyes
Vat dyes are used to dye cotton and viscose rayon.
Vat dyes are insoluble and so cannot penetrate the
fibres in solution. They can however be reduced to a
soluble form called the leuco form in the presence of
alkali and a reducing agent. Vat dyeing is a multi-
stage process:
n the insoluble vat dye is reduced to a soluble
leuco form to be applied to the textile;
n the leuco molecules are then oxidised to be
insoluble once more and develop the colour
inside the fibre. Vat dyes have excellent
washfastness properties but the colour range is
more limited and more expensive.
Sulphur dyes are similar to vat dyes but are cheaper,
less environmentally friendly and are limited to flat
dull colours. They also have poor fastness to sodium
hypochlorite.
continued
continued
Azoic Dyes
Azoic dyes are applied to cotton and viscose rayon.
The textile is impregnated with a naphthol based,
coupling compound and immersed in a dyebath
containing a diazotised base triggering a
precipitation reaction. The colour is manufactured
inside the fibre by the coupling of the two
components.
Since the dye molecules are large and insoluble, they
have excellent wash fastness properties. Poor rub
fastness can be a problem due to dye formation on the
textile surface. Insufficient afterwashing will give poor
fastness to wet treatments.
Acid Dyes
Acid dyes have a direct affinity for protein fibres and
are the main class of dyestuff for dyeing wool.
Nylon also has an affinity for acid dyes. The
attraction between dye and fibre is the result of
negatively charged dye particles called anions
associating with positively charged basic groups in
the fibre generally under acid conditions.
Disperse Dyes
Disperse dyes are applied to polyester. Polyester has a
tightly packed molecular structure called a crystalline
structure. It is hydrophobic or water hating. Heat opens
DEVELOPING A COLOUR RANGE
What’s involved in the dyeing process and what process is used to
select a dye for a given application. Modern dyehouses use a wide
range of equipment for formulating dye recipes and dyeing textiles.
Many dyeing processes are computerised and highly automated.
I
nformation gathering and the
generation of ideas are key
elements in the design process. At
the information gathering stage,
market research – what the market is
doing and what it is seeking is
undertaken. Working with customers to
ensure their needs are met is essential.
Almost all product is subject to seasonal
variation and demand. Dyes used in
Industrial textiles must rise to meet new and
exacting technical requirements, whilst apparel
must meet the ever changing and fickle fashion
markets.
up the crystalline structure to allow disperse dye
molecules to enter the fibre from solution where they
have been held in suspension. The dye is trapped in the
fibre upon cooling and held by physical forces to
produce good fastness properties. Disperse dyes may
be applied at elevated temperatures from pressurised
vessels or at the boil with the assistance of a chemical
called a carrier.
Basic Dyes
Acrylic fibres are dyed with the
brilliant and intense modified basic
dyes. Basic dyes are positively
charged or cationic. These positively
charged cations are attracted to
negatively charged anions in the
acrylic fibre. The reaction of the
cation and anion form salt linkages
and the fibre is coloured with good
wash and light fastness properties.
Pigments
Pigments are water insoluble colourants that can be
applied to most fibre types. They are coloured
particles dispersed in an aqueous paste containing
a binder. Through various methods, the pigment
paste is then applied to the surface of the textile and
the binder is then cured.
Once the information is gathered and assimilated,
samples can be generated. In the lab, colour
swatches either collated by designers or
supplied by customers are placed in a
spectrophotometer – an instrument used to
measure the amount of light reflected from a
sample at a number of wavelengths in the
visible spectrum in comparison to a white
standard.
When the sample is placed in the
spectrophotometer and a reading obtained,
the reflected light is specified mathematically.
Different combinations of dyestuffs can be mixed to
assimilate the colour of the sample.
continued
continued
The information from the spectrophotometer is A recipe sheet is printed and laboratory trials are
transferred to the computer. The computer assesses undertaken to ensure a good colour match and that
the reading and then seeks to find and name a the recipe formulated will produce properties that
combination of dyestuffs that will match the sample. meet the customer’s end use specifications. Once a
The computer gives a number of dye recipe options trial is successful, the recipe is ready for use in the
that very closely resemble the original sample. The dyehouse and production begins.
most suitable recipe is chosen but choice will be
based on such things as price, colour fastness to
washing and light, migration and exhaustion rates
and levelling properties.

PRINCIPLES OF DYEING
n Migration of dye molecule from liquor to fibre. This process is assisted by increasing
temperatures and using auxiliaries – substances that help the dyeing process.

n Diffusion of dye from the fibre surface into the fibre. This process is assisted by agitation of
the fibre, dyebath or both together with heat.

n Fixation ensures the dye molecule is attached to the fibre either by physical forces or chemical
bonding. These forces may be weak or strong.

Most dyeing processes need heat to provide the energy for the dyeing to take place. This is
commonly supplied by direct or indirect steam.

A P P LY I N G D Y E S T U F F S
– MACHINERY USED
Package Dyeing
Dyeing may take place at the yarn stage. Yarn
dyeing is generally carried out on package dyeing
machinery where the yarn is destined for sewing
threads or knitting and weaving into striped or
patterned fabrics. Yarn may also be dyed in the
hank form. This form is most commonly used in the
wool industry, particularly where the yarn is destined
for carpet manufacturing.
Package dyeing is a method of dyeing textiles in
yarn form. The yarn is first wound onto perforated
plastic tubes or spiral springs. In this form the yarn
is known as a package. The undyed yarn packages
are loaded onto a carrier ready for dyeing in a
package dyeing machine. When the carrier is full,
the packages are compressed and secured. The
carrier holding the yarn is lowered into the dye
vessel via an overhead crane. The vessel is closed
so that it can be pressurised. Premixed dye is added
to a tank at the side of the machine. During the
dyeing cycle, the dye liquor will circulate constantly
through the vessel and tank until all the dye is used
or exhausted. The perforations in the tube allow the
dye to flow through the yarn package.
Once exhaustion is achieved, the carrier of coloured
yarn is removed from the vessel. Excess water is
removed from the packages in a large centrifuge.
The yarn is then dried in an infra – red drying oven.
Winch Dyeing
Winch dyeing machines are a low cost design that is
simple to operate and maintain, yet versatile in
application proving invaluable for preparation,
washing or after treatments as well as the dyeing
stage itself.
In all winch dyeing machines a series of fabric ropes
of equal length are immersed in the dye bath but
part of each rope is taken over two reels or the
winch itself. The rope of fabric is circulated through
the dye bath being hauled up and over the winch
throughout the course of the dyeing operation.
Dyestuff and auxiliaries may be dosed manually or
automatically in accordance with the recipe method.

continued
continued
Jet Dyeing
The jet dyeing machine moves the fabric together
with the dye liquor. This reduces the strain on the
fabric. As it is fully enclosed, the jet dyer can be
pressurised and heated up to 130°C for dyeing
polyester textiles and polyester blends with disperse
dyes. The jet dyer uses less water – has a lower
liquor ratio than the winch and is therefore more
economical of energy, water and chemicals. The
more gentle treatment of fabrics is also an
advantage for fine or delicate fabric constructions.
Jig Dyeing
Jig dyeing is an effective technique for dyeing woven
fabrics in open width to avoid creasing problems.
A batch of fabric on one roller is gradually unwound
and passes through a dyebath of relatively low
volume. As it moves through the dyebath it is wound
onto a second roller. When the second roller is full,
the direction of fabric movement is reversed. In jig
dyeing the duration of the process is normally
counted in terms of the number of “ends” or
passages of the fabric through the dyebath from
roller to roller rather than in minutes.
Atmospheric jigs operate at temperatures and
pressures of atmospheric conditions. These
machines are well suited to natural fibred
goods.
The high temperature jig works in much the
same way as the atmospheric jig but is a
pressurised vessel designed to operate at 130
C. It is used for dyeing synthetic fibred woven
goods with disperse dyes.
Beam Dyeing
In beam dyeing, fabric in open width is rolled onto
a perforated beam. The beam is slid into a vessel
that can be closed and pressurised. The dye liquor
is circulated through the preformations in the beam
and colour thus impregnates the fabric.
Padding
In cold pad batch padding fabric is passed through
a dyebath in open width or tubular form and then
through padding mangles which squeeze out the
excess dye. It is important that the fabric picks up a
constant amount of dye liquor otherwise the depth
of shade will vary from one part of the fabric to the
other. After padding the fabric in open width form is
taken up on an A-frame, wrapped in plastic and left
to rotate whilst migration and diffusion take place.
Fabric in tubular form is lapped onto a stillage. The
stillage is wrapped in plastic and left for up to 24
hours for diffusion and fixation to take place.
Once the dye is fixed, the fabric is washed to
remove any unreacted dye molecules that may
cause poor fastness in use.
The cold pad batch padding system is most suited to
the dyeing of cotton goods with reactive dyes.
Pad thermofixation is another method of padding.
After padding, the dye is fixed by passing through a
steamer or stenter to provide heat and energy for
the dyeing process to take place. There may be an
intermediate drying stage between padding and
fixation.
Printing
There are two main methods of fabric printing –
rotary screen printing and flat bed printing.
Pigments and dyestuffs are frequently applied
through these printing processes.
The first requirement is a patterned screen. Flat
and rotary screens are produced by etching a
design onto a metallic screen through a
photochemical process to create the desired
pattern.
Pigments are generally applied via a white
binder or printing paste. This is prepared by
mixing in a large vat. The colours to be printed
are specified on a sheet for the operator. The
various pigments specified in the printing recipe
are added to the white binder and mixed
thoroughly to achieve the required colour.
In rotary screen printing the printing paste is
supplied through a pipe inside the screen itself. A
squeegee forces the paste through the holes in the
screen and onto the fabric passing below.
In flat bed printing, the printing paste is poured into
one side of the screen. The squeegee is then drawn
across the screen to force the paste through the
design and onto the fabric.
The printed fabric is dried in an oven at the end of the
printing line. This process is similar for both flat bed
and rotary screen printing techniques. After drying,
pigments are then cured and dyestuffs are heat fixed.
continued
continued

Garment Dyeing The dyebath auxiliary chemicals are added to the

Garment dyeing is carried out on made up garments machine. Once the auxiliaries have mixed with the
or products. These products are water, the prepared dyestuffs are introduced. The
often made from fabric which dyeing cycle begins and steam is turned on to
has been specifically provide energy for dyeing.
prepared for garment dyeing.
Once completed, the
Both dyes and pigments are
garments are unloaded from
used in garment dyeing.
the machine and placed in a
Pigments are widely used in garment
centrifuge usually called a hydro
dyeing to achieve unusual or random
extractor, to remove excess water. The
effects such as washed out or distressed
garments are then unloaded from the
looks.
centrifuge and loaded into a tumble dryer to
The machines used are related to dry.
commercial washing machines as
As the garments may become creased and
these products require similar
crushed during processing, the customer often
handling. Garments are loaded into the
requires them to be pressed, making them more
machine, the machine is filled with water
presentable for retail sale.
and the garment wet out.
 A C T I V I T Y M A S T E R 1

DYE FIBRE AFFINITY

Different dyes are attracted to different
fibres but some fibres can be dyed with
more than one type of dye. Place a tick in
the appropriate box to show the affinity of
the different fibres for the different dyestuffs.
The first one has been done for you.

Wool Cotton Viscose Polyester Nylon Acrylic

Direct

Reactive

Vat

Sulphur

Azoic

Acid 4
Disperse

Modified Basic

Pigment
 A C T I V I T Y M A S T E R 2

PRACTICAL EXPERIENCES FOR

TESTING COLOUR FASTNESS
Determining the Colourfastness
o f F a b r i c s t o Wa s h i n g

When fabrics have been dyed they must be

tested to ensure the colour is fast to washing.
This means that the colour won’t run or leach
out when the consumer places the fabric in
the washing machine. There are standard test
methods for checking colourfastness to
washing. The standards used by a particular
company may be international or specific to
the country in which the product is dyed. ACTIVITY
If you work in Industry, collect samples from fabrics
Most standard test procedures are designed to that have been dyed and follow the standard test
assist the colourist determine the colour fastness procedures carried out in your place of work or watch
the laboratory technician as they carry out the test.
of a fabric to moderate conditions of machine
laundering in the presence of soap and quite If you are studying colouration and don’t have
access to standards and textile laboratory
often sodium carbonate (with the exception of
conditions, then follow the simple test procedure
wool which is washed only in pure soap). detailed on the next page.

YOU WILL NEED...

n Fabric samples dyed from different n Needle and thread
dyestuffs for testing n Iron and ironing board
n Control sample of each fabric to be n A glass screw top jar
tested
n Electronic balance
n White undyed cotton fabric (enough to
cut samples for each test fabric of n Water
dimension 5cm x 5cm) n Lux flakes
n White undyed polyester fabric (enough n Sodium Carbonate
to cut samples for each test fabric of
dimension 5cm x 5cm)

continued
continued
METHOD
The aim of this test is to see how much colour
(dyestuff) runs from a test sample during washing
causing staining to a white control fabric.
1. Cut a sample of fabric from each of the dyed
fabrics to be tested. Each sample must be 5cm
x 5cm.
2. Sandwich each of the dyed fabrics to be tested
between two white, undyed cloths of the same
size. Stitch the sandwich of fabrics together with
the needle and thread.
For different fibre types, different white samples
are used:
Wool
1 white cotton fabric and 1 white wool fabric
Polyester/Cotton blends
1 white polyester fabric and 1 white cotton or wool fabric
Polyester
1 white polyester fabric and 1 white cotton or wool fabric
Cotton
1 white wool or nylon fabric and 1 white cotton fabric
Nylon
1 white nylon fabric and 1 white wool or viscose fabric
Acrylic
1 white acrylic fabric and 1 white wool or cotton fabric
Viscose Rayon
1 white viscose and 1 white wool or nylon fabric
3. Prepare a standard washing solution to test the
fabrics.
There are 2 Standard Washing Solutions.
Test Solution 1
A solution of water containing 5g/L standard
soap (Lux flakes).
This solution is used for wool based fabrics.
Test Solution 2
A solution of water containing
I) 5g/L standard soap (Lux Flakes and
ii) 2g/L sodium carbonate.
This solution is used for all other fibre types.
4. Add 150mls of washing solution to the glass
jar. There should be a separate jar for each
fabric to be tested.
In a commercial laboratory the test sample is
added to the container of a testing machine
such as the “Laundrometer”. The container is
normally filled with washing solution in a
liquor to specimen ratio of 50:1.
5. Heat the washing solution to 60°C. If testing
wool heat to 50°C.
6. Add the test specimen to the solution and
shake the jar for 15 minutes. In a commercial
laboratory the testing equipment will be
programmed for a specified period of time.
7. Following the washing cycle, remove the
sample and rinse in cold, running, filtered tap
water for 2 minutes.
8. Dry the specimen in such a way that the 2 undyed
control samples fall free from the specimen.
9. Press the sample with a warm iron to remove
creases.
10. Assess the sample for the amount of staining to
the undyed control sample using a standard
“Grey Scale”.
The “Grey Scale” is a gradated scale against
which the intensity of staining may be
compared. It ranges from zero degree of
staining, through moderate staining to very
pronounced degrees of staining.
Samples are assigned a colourfastness to
washing number on a scale from 1 – 5 where:
1 = Poor Colourfastness to Washing
5 = Excellent colourfastness to Washing
If grey scales are not available, then subjective
evaluations will have to be made. A suggested
Poor
Fair
Moderate
Good
Excellent
scale is recommended. Compare a range of
samples.
 A C T I V I T Y
DETERMINING THE COLOURFASTNESS
O F F A B R I C S TO W AT E R
When fabrics have been dyed they
must be tested to ensure the colour is fast to
water. This test is designed to simulate
conditions in the home once fabrics have been
washed and rinsed. Sometimes, wet clothing
or products may be left in the washing
machine or in a basket for a period of time
before hanging on the clothesline or placed in
the tumble dryer. Dyes that have poor fastness
to water may leach out of the textile and stain
the textile lying next to it. There are standard
test methods for checking colourfastness to
YOU WILL NEED
n Fabric samples dyed from different
dyestuffs for testing measuring 50mm x
50mm
n Control sample of each fabric to be
tested
n White undyed cotton fabric (enough to
cut samples for each test fabric of
dimension 5cm x 5cm)
M A S T E R 3
water. The standards used by a particular
company may be international or specific to
the country in which the product is dyed.
ACTIVITY
If you work in Industry, collect samples from fabrics
that have been dyed and follow the standard test
procedures carried out in your place of work or watch
the laboratory technician as they carry out the test.
If you are studying colouration and don’t have
access to standards and textile laboratory
conditions, then follow the simple test procedure
detailed below.
n White undyed polyester fabric (enough to
cut samples for each test fabric of
dimension 5cm x 5cm)
n Small dish or glass weight
n Large petri dish
n Needle and thread
n Distilled water
n Warm Oven (40°C ± 2°C)
continued
continued

METHOD
The aim of this test is to see how much colour 6. Place the petrie dish with the prepared sample
(dyestuff) runs from a test sample in contact with into a preheated oven at 40°C ± 2°C. Leave
undyed cloths when exposed to water. for 4 hours.

1. Cut a test sample for each fabric to be tested.

The sample size is 50mm x 50mm.

2. Sandwich each of the dyed fabrics to be tested

between two white, undyed cloths of the same
7. Remove the sample from the oven and pour
size. Stitch the sandwich of fabrics together with
the water off. Remove the excess water from
the needle and thread.
the sample by gently squeezing the sample
For different fibre types, different white samples between rollers. (A rolling pin or the edge of a
are used: glass jar could be used).

Wool 8. Dry the sample in such a way that the 2

1 white cotton fabric and 1 white wool fabric undyed control samples fall free from the
specimen.
Polyester/Cotton blends
1 white polyester fabric and 1 white cotton or wool fabric 9. Assess the sample for the amount of staining to
the undyed control sample using a standard
Polyester “Grey Scale”.
1 white polyester fabric and 1 white cotton or wool fabric
The “Grey Scale” is a graduated scale against
Cotton which the intensity of staining may be
1 white wool or nylon fabric and 1 white cotton fabric compared. It ranges from zero degree of
staining, through moderate staining to very
Nylon pronounced degrees of staining.
1 white nylon fabric and 1 white wool or viscose fabric
10. Assign a colourfastness to water number on a
Acrylic scale from 1 – 5 where:
1 white acrylic fabric and 1 white wool or cotton fabric
1 = Poor Colourfastness to Water
Viscose Rayon 5 = Excellent colourfastness to Water
1 white viscose and 1 white wool or nylon fabric
If grey scales are not available, then subjective
evaluations will have to be made. A suggested
3. Place the prepared
test sample in a petrie Poor
dish. Fair
4. Pour distilled water Moderate
into the petrie dish Good
until the sample is Excellent
covered. scale is recommended. Compare a range of
5. Place a glass plate or dish on top of the samples.
specimen and press lightly to remove any air
bubbles.
A C T I V I T Y M A S T E R 4

THE FACTS ABOUT DYEING

What to do ........
From the list of words in the box, complete all the sentences.

1. The ...................................... gives a dye its solubility and ability

Pa to attach to the fibre.
d ter
me 2. The ................................... is the colour bearing component of
hoto a dye.
ct rop me
Spe ro
Auxoch 3. .......................... dyes have relatively poor wash fastness unless
after treated.
CR
BEAM YST 4. Polyester is normally dyed at elevated temperatures because of
AL its ...............................................molecular arrangement.
LIN
Auxiliaries E 5. ................................... dyes are commonly used on cellulosic
fibres when good wash fastness properties are needed.

Co Acid 6. ........................................... of dye molecules is assisted by

increasing temperature and using auxiliaries.
nti Pigments
nu 7. A .............................................. is an instrument to measure
ou the amount of reflected light from a coloured sample.
s
8. ..................................................... are weak, physical forces of
valen
t Leuco attraction.
Co 9. ............................................ dyeing machines are ideal for
dyeing woven fabrics in open width.
TION
AGITA 10. Ring and open end are methods of .......................................

Reactive 11. ...................................... is the term describing the attraction

between dye and fibre.
Stapl
e ore
12. Nylon and wool fibres are commonly dyed with .....................
o p h Dyes.
om
Chr 13. Diffusion of dye into fibre is assisted by .................................
14. ........................................ dyeing techniques are the most
economical in terms of water and energy usage.
AFFINITY
15. Fibres of finite length are termed ................................ fibres.
Van der Waals Forces 16. A filament is a fibre of ............................................... length.
17. Substances that help the dyeing process are known as
.......................................................
ra tion Dire
Mig ct 18. ............................................... are water insoluble colourants
that can be applied to most fibre types.
19. Vat dyes are insoluble and so must be reduced to a soluble
SPINNING .............................................. form.
20. Reactive dyes form strong ..................................... bonds with
cellulosic fibres.
 A C T I V I T Y M A S T E R 5

CROSSWORD
2

A C R O S S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

1. The joining of the two components 9 10 11

of an azoic dye. 12

5. Chemical term for two or more 13 14

elements joined together.
9. Dye vessel in which the fabric runs 15 16
backwards and forwards between
two rollers.
17 18 19
12. Fibre with an affinity for modified
basic dyes.
13. A positively charged particle. 20

16. Process whereby dye is anchored

to the dye site. 21 22 23

17. A negatively charged particle. 24

21. Chemical base of azoic dyes. 25 26

24. Method of colouring textile materials.

28
25. The specified method for applying 27 29

a dye.
26. Item of finishing equipment. 30 31

27. Class of dyestuff suited to dyeing

acrylic fibres. 32 33

28. A fabric or garment state following

wet finishing.
30. A post dyeing chemical treatment.
11. Azoic dyes do this and the colour is formed in the textile.
32. An additional chemical used in the dyeing
14. Textiles dyed with azoic dyes are immersed in a bath
process.
containing this base.
33. To use all the dyestuff in the dye vessel through
15. A class of dyestuff suited to dyeing cotton and viscose
fixation on the fibre.
rayon.
D O W N 17. A term used to describe the attraction between fibre and
dye.
2. Opposite of reduction.
18. An evenly dyed textile.
3. The soluble form of a vat dye.
19. A chemical that assists a dye to move into a fibre.
4. A standard scale for assessing wash and water
fastness of dyed fabrics. 20. Another term for a polymer solution.
6. The movement of dye molecules from liquor to fibre 22. A form of pad dyeing.
and back again. 23. A form of radiation used for drying – particularly
7. An instrument for measuring and specifying colour packages of yarn.
mathematically. 29. A product of substantial length and relatively small cross
8. The act of colouring a textile. section consisting of fibres. Dyeing may be carried out at
this stage.
10. A term used to describe the resistance of dye to a
change in colour. 31. To combine or blend.
 6
A C T I V I T Y M A S T E R 6

VISIT THE MARKET PLACE

1. Visit the market place and see how many different products you
can find which are made from different fibres and by different
production techniques.
Collect samples of dyed fabrics and make up a swatch book of
the samples. Gather information about each sample and write a
description about it in the swatch book. You might like to record
the information in a table like that shown below. A worked
example has been given to get you started.
2. Collect samples of printed fabrics and place in your swatch book.
Compare dyed and printed fabrics. What are the differences?

Yarn Structure Fabric Structure

Fibre Content DYED OR
Sample Staple or Woven or Knitted End Use
or Blend PRINTED
Filament or Nonwoven

Stick sample 100% Nylon Filament Knitted Swim Suit PRINTED

here

Stick sample
here

Stick sample
here

Stick sample
here

Stick sample
here
 VIDEO REVIEW
Listen carefully to the video
and answer the questions
in the spaces provided.
INTRODUCTION TO
COLOURATION
1. Fibres of finite length are known as
................................................... fibres.
2. Man- made fibres are produced as continuous
.............................................................
3. List 2 staple spinning technologies.
.............................................................
.............................................................
4. List two processes for converting yarn to fabric.
.............................................................
.............................................................
5. Textile colouration is achieved through the
processes of ........................................... and
............................................................
6. List the stages of textile production when dyeing
can be undertaken.
.............................................................
.............................................................
.............................................................
.............................................................
.............................................................
7. The colour bearing component of a dye is the
.............................................
8. The ........................................ gives a dye its
solubility and ability to attach itself to the fibre.
CHECKSHEET
DYE – FIBRE AFFINITY
1. Which fibres are best dyed with direct dyes?
.........................................................................
2. Direct dyes are held by weak physical forces of
attraction called .............................................
3. Direct dyes have poor ....................................
unless after treated.
4. Reactive dyes form strong ...............................
with cotton and viscose rayon.
5. Reactive dyes have ........................................
wash fastness properties.
6. Vat dyes are used to dye ................................
..........................................
7. Vat dyes must be reduced to a soluble
......................................... form to be applied.
8. Vat dyes have excellent ................................
properties but the colour range is more limited
and expensive.
9. .................................... dyes are similar to vat
dyes.
10. Azoic dyes are applied to ...............................
...........................................
11. Azoic dyes have excellent .......................... but
poor ...................... fastness.
12. Acid dyes are used to dye ...............................
...........................................
continued
continued
13. Disperse dyes are applied ...............................
...........................................
14. Disperse dyes are trapped in the fibre upon
cooling and held by ........................................
15. Modified basic dyes are used to dye
....................................................
16. The positively charged .............................. are
attracted to negatively charged .......................
17. Pigments are water .........................................
colourants.
18. Pigments are coloured particles dispersed in an
aqueous paste containing a ............................
APPLICATION OF DYES
1. Recipe choice is based on...............................
...........................................
2. The dyeing process involves:
.............................................................
.............................................................
.............................................................
3. Yarn dyeing can be carried out in a
....................................................... machine.
4. Winch machinery is used to dye
....................................................................
5. List the advantages of jet dyeing.
.............................................................
.............................................................
.............................................................
6. What sort of fabrics are best dyed on a jig
dyeing machine?
.............................................................
.............................................................
.............................................................
7. What sort of fabrics are best dyed on a beam
dyeing machine?
.............................................................
.............................................................
.............................................................
8. What are the two main methods of pad
dyeing?
.............................................................
.............................................................
9. How is a design developed on a printing
screen?
.............................................................
.............................................................
.............................................................
10. List two types of printing process.
.............................................................
.............................................................
.............................................................
11. What does a stenter do?
.............................................................
.............................................................
.............................................................
12. What sort of effects can be achieved with
pigment dyed garments?
.............................................................
.............................................................
.............................................................
13. What are garment dyeing machines like?
.............................................................
.............................................................
.............................................................
14. What is the name of the machine used to
extract water from dyed garments?
.............................................................
.............................................................
.............................................................
15. List three common tests carried out on dyed
and printed textiles.
.............................................................
.............................................................
.............................................................
 ANSWERS

ANSWERS TO VIDEO REVIEW CHECKSHEET

Introduction to Colouration 16. positively charged cations

negatively charged anions
1. staple
17. insoluble
2. filaments
18. binder
3. open end rotor spinning
ring spinning
Application of Dyes
4. knitting
1. price
weaving
migration and exhaustion rates
5. dyeing levelling properties
printing colour fastness to meet and use requirements

6. dope, fibre, yarn, fabric, garment or product 2. migration, diffusion, fixation

7. chromophore 3. package dyeing machine

8. auxochrome 4. knitted
loosely woven fabrics
Dye-Fibre Affinity 5. more economical
1. cotton, viscose rayon uses less water, dyes, chemicals and energy
more gentle on the fabric
2. van der waals forces
6. heavy or tightly woven fabrics in open width
3. washfastness form to avoid creasing

4. covalent bonds 7. woven fabrics or warp knitted fabrics made

from synthetic fibres and their blends
5. extremely high
8. pad batch, pad heat fix
6. cotton, viscose rayon
9. The screen is etched with a design through a
7. leuco photochemical process.
8. washfastness 10. flat bed, rotary screen
9. sulphur 11. The stenter finishes a fabric to the correct
weight, width and pulls the fabric on grain.
10. cotton, viscose, rayon
12. washed out
11. excellent washfastness
distressed looks
poor rub fastness
13. commercial washing machines
12. wool, nylon
14. centrifuge or hydro-extractor
13. polyester
15. colour fastness to washing
14. physical forces
colour fastness to water
15. acrylic colour fastness to light
ACTIVITY M A S T E R 4

THE FACTS ABOUT

DYEING
1. Auxochrome 11. Affinity
2. Chromophore 12. Acid
3. Direct 13. Agitation
4. Crystalline 14. Pad
5. Reactive 15. Staple
6. Migration 16. Continuous
7. Spectrophotometer 17. Auxiliaries
8. Van der Waals Forces 18. Pigments
9. Beam 19. Leuco
10. Spinning 20. Covalent

ACTIVITY M A S T E R 5

CROSSWORD SOLUTION
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
C O U P L I N G C O M P O U N D S
X E R I
8
C P
9
J I G U E G
10
F
11
P O E
D C Y R
12
A C R Y L I C
13 14
C A T I O N D A S E O T
T I T T C U R
I A
15 16
F I X A T I O N I R O
O Z Z O E P A P
17 18 19
A N I O N L O N S I T H C
F I E T S T I O A
20
F C V I D A O T R
I E S O T N O R
21
N A P H T
22
O L E P
23
I E M I
I H 24
D Y E I N G E E
T 25
R E C I P E F 26
S T E N T E R
Y R R E
27 28 29
M O D I F I E D B A S I C D R Y
O A
30
A F T E R T R E A T M E N T
31
R
I I N
32 33
A U X I L I A R Y E X H A U S T

© Edtex Australia Pty Limited, 1997

Written and produced by Edtex Australia Pty Limited for the Society of Dyers and Colourists
Australia and New Zealand.
© Character animination reproduced with kind permission from Mantis Design Pty Limited.
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