2005 Kirby Et Al FUNWAVE ModelFormulations

FUNWAVE 2.
0
Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Wave Model
On Curvilinear Coordinates
Part I: Model Formulations
James T. Kirby, Wen Long, Fengyan Shi
Research Report No. CACR-03-xx
Center for Applied Coastal Research
Dept. of Civil & Environmental Engineering
University of Delaware
Newark, Delaware, 19716
May 31, 2005
Contents
1 Introduction 5
2 Original Equations 7
2.1 Equation of Wei et al (1995), O(
2
) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
2.2 Equations of Andrew Kennedy (2001), O(
2
) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
2.3 Equations of Chen et al (2000) , O(
2
) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
3 New Equation Systems 11
3.1 Mauricio F, Gobbi (2000) O(
4
) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
3.2 Kinematics of Potential Theory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
3.2.1 Horizontal velocity u(x, y, z, t) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
3.2.2 Vertical velocity w(x, y, z, t) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
3.2.3 Pressure p(x, y, z, t) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
3.2.4 Flux per unit width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
3.2.5 Ambient current eld . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
3.2.6 Potential vorticity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
3.2.7 Setup-setdown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
3.2.8 Phase velocity, wave direction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
3.3 Denition of z
a
, z
b
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
4 Derivations from Euler Equation with Vertical Vorticity Retained O(
2
) 25
4.1 Nondimensionalization . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
4.2 Consistency of Kinematics between Euler Theory and Potential Theory . . 27
4.3 Boussinesq Equation with Vertical Vorticity Retained . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
4.3.1 Continuity equation (COM) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
4.3.2 Momentum equation evaluated at z = . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
4.3.3 Momentum equation evaluated at arbitrary level z = z
c
. . . . . . 35
5 Formulations in Curvilinear Coordinates 37
5.1 Final Form of Equations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
5.2 Additional Eects for Actual Implementation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
5.3 Some Notes on Curvilinear Coordinate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
5.4 Curvilinear Representations of COM and EOM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
5.5 Curvilinear Representation of Shoreline Boundary Condition . . . . . . . . 60
3
4 CONTENTS
6 Numerics and Programming Details 65
6.1 Grids and Basic Spatial Dierence Schemes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
6.2 Flow Chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
6.3 Predictor and Corrector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
6.3.1 Adams explicit and implicit schemes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
6.3.2 Implementation of Adams schemes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
6.3.3 Hot-Start problem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
6.4 Obtain u from

U . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
6.5 Iteration Error Control and Under-relaxation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
6.6 Calculation of Kinematics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
A Wave Maker Theory 79
B Mesh Generator by Fengyan Shi 83
Chapter 1
Introduction
The numerical model FUNWAVE1.0 produced by Center for Applied Coastal Research,
1998, is capable of simulating surface waves in coastal region including outer surf zone and
inner surf zone. The model is based on theoretical research of Wei et al (1995) in which
a fully nonlinear Boussinesq Equation is set up by extending Nwogu(1993)s Boussinesq
equation with higher order nonlinear dispersive terms retained. The Wei et al(1995) equa-
tion can be applied to both intermediate water depth and strong nonlinearity interaction.
After FUNWAVE1.0 was released, further work has been continuously done by Gobbi
et al (2000), Kennedy et al(2001), Chen et al (2000), Shi et al(2000), Chawla & Kirby
(2000). In Gobbi et al (2000), the equation is extended to fourth order accuracy of dis-
persion and multi-reference-level is introduced compared to Nwogu (1993) and Wei et
al (1995). In Kennedy(2001), the reference level of Wei et al (1995) is extended to be
moving with the surface elevation. In Chen et al (2000), a second order vertical vorticity
term is further incorporated in the equation which is capable of simulating eddies in the
horizontal plane generated after wave breaking in the surf zone. In Shi et al(2001), the
Wei et al (1995) equation is solved on curvilinear coordinate system and implemented on
staggered grids to give better accuracy and convergence rate, hence can simulate waves
with complex geometries. In Chawla & Kirby (2000) a one-way wave maker theory for
the model is established by adding a pressure term to the momentum equation compared
to Wei et al (2000).
All these improvements are now put into version 2.0 of FUNWAVE, that is, FUN-
WAVE 2.0. In this documentation, a new equation is derived and its able to recover all
existing Boussinesq equations above mentioned(Standard Boussinesq, Nwogu 1993, Wei
1995, Kennedy 2001, Chen 2000, Gobbi 2000) to the second order of dispersion. And the
new equation is solved on a generalized curvilinear coordinate as Shi(2001). Also internal
boundaries of islands, breakwaters ... are included in the new version. In sum the following
are the new features in FUNWAVE 2.0:
Staggered Grid System
Generalized Curvilinear Coordinate System
Multi-moving-reference-levels
Vertical Vorticity Term Retained
5
6 CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION
One-way wave maker
Internal Boundaries
In addition, the new model can output more kinematic and dynamic quantities such
as temporal wave gage, spatial wave gage, pressure, mean current, set-up/set-down, wave
heights, potential vorticity.
The breaking simulation, subgrid-mixing, bottom friction, sponge layer, slots(Tao,
1983, 1984) method are kept the same as version 1.0.
Detailed derivation of equations, coding, user manual and examples are given in this
documentation.
Chapter 2
Original Equations
2.1 Equation of Wei et al (1995), O(
2
)
Continuity of Mass (COM):
t
+ M = 0 (2.1)
where
M = (h + ){u
+
2
[
1
2
z
2
1
6
(h
2
h +
2
2
)]( u
)
+
2
[z
+
1
2
(h )][ (hu
)]} + O(
4
)
(2.2)
Equation of Motion (EOM):
u
t
+ (u
)u
+ +
2
V
1
+
2
V
2
= O(
4
) (2.3)
where
V
1
=
1
2
z
2
( u
t
) + z
[ (hu
t
)] [
1
2
()
2
u
t
+ (hu
t
] (2.4)
V
2
= {(z
)(u
)[ (hu
)] +
1
2
(z
2
2
)(u
)( u
)}
+
1
2
{[ (hu
) + u
]
2
}
(2.5)
=
a
0
h
0
, = k
0
h
0
are scales of nonlinearity and dispersion respectively, where a
0
and
h
0
are typical wave amplitude and still water depth respectively.
z
= [(1 + 2)
1/2
1]h 0.531h (2.6)
=
1
2
(
z
h
)
2
+
z
h
0.390 (2.7)
u
is velocity at z = z
: u
= ()
z=z
.
7
8 CHAPTER 2. ORIGINAL EQUATIONS
2.2 Equations of Andrew Kennedy (2001), O(
2
)
Continuity of Mass(COM):
t
+ M = 0 (2.8)
where
M = (h + ){u
+
2
[
1
2
z
2
1
6
(h
2
h +
2
2
)]( u
)
+
2
[z
+
1
2
(h )][ (hu
)]} + O(
4
)
(2.9)
(8)(9) are identical to (1)(2). Equation of Motion (EOM):
u
t
+ (u
)u
+ +
2
V
1
+
2
V
2
= O(
4
) (2.10)
where
V
1
= [
1
2
z
2
( u
) + z
[ (hu
)]]
t
[
1
2
()
2
u
t
+ (hu
t
)] (2.11)
V
2
= {(z
)(u
)[ (hu
)] +
1
2
(z
2
2
)(u
)( u
)}
+
1
2
{[ (hu
) + u
]
2
}
(2.12)
(11) is dierent from(4) by time derivatives are outside of the square bracket.
z
=
0
h +
0
(2.13)
so
z
t
=
0
t
(2.14)
Special case:(
0
=
0
1)
z
= (
0
1)h + (2.15)
Set
0
=
_
1/5to obtain Pade [2,2] dispersion relation.
Equation (15) is referred as datum invariant version of Boussinesq Equation (Kennedy,
2001), for
h + z
h +
=
0
= const
When
_

0
= (1 + 2)
2
1 = 0.531;
0
= 0,
(2.16)
we recover WKGS model. When
_
_
_
0
=
0
1 =
_
1/5 1 0.5528;
0
=
_
1/5,
(2.17)
we recover Kennedy(2001) datum invariant model.
2.3. EQUATIONS OF CHEN ET AL (2000) , O(
2
) 9
2.3 Equations of Chen et al (2000) , O(
2
)
Continuity of Mass(COM):
t
+ M = 0 (2.18)
where
M = (h + ){u
+
2
[
1
2
z
2
1
6
(h
2
h +
2
2
)]( u
)
+
2
[z
+
1
2
(h )][ (hu
)]} + O(
4
)
(2.19)
Equation of Motion (EOM):
u
t
+ (u
)u
+ +
2
V
1
+
2
V
2
+
2
V
3
= O(
4
) (2.20)
where
V
1
=
1
2
z
2
( u
t
) + z
[ (hu
t
)]] [
1
2
()
2
u
t
+ (hu
t
)] (2.21)
V
2
= {(z
)(u
)[ (hu
)] +
1
2
(z
2
2
)(u
)( u
)}
+
1
2
{[ (hu
) + u
]
2
}
(2.22)
and
V
3
= (V
x
3
, V
y
3
) =
1
u
(2.23)
V
x
3
= v
1
; v
y
3
= u
1
(2.24)
1
= (0, 0,
1
) (2.25)
1
= z
x
{[ (hu
)]
y
+ z
( u
)
y
}
z
y
{[ (hu
)]
x
z
( u
)
x
}
(2.26)
Chen et al (2000) equation has an extra term V
3
compared to Wei et al (1995), which
is the second order correction of vertical vorticity evaluated at z = z
:
|
z=z
=
0
+
2
1
= (u)|
z=z
(2.27)
where
0
= u
(2.28)
10 CHAPTER 2. ORIGINAL EQUATIONS
1
= {(u u
)}|
z=z
(2.29)
u = u
+
2
{(z
z)[ (hu
)]
+ (
z
2
2

z
2
2
)( u
)}
(2.30)
Chapter 3
New Equation Systems
3.1 Mauricio F, Gobbi (2000) O(
4
)
This section gives derivations from potential ow theory.
Governing Equation:
COM:
t
+ M = 0, M =
_

h
dz (3.1)
Laplace:
zz
+
2
2
= 0; h z (3.2)
Bottom Boundary Condition(BBC):
z
+
2
h = 0; z = h (3.3)
Dynamic Free Surface Boundary Condition(DFSBC):
+
t
+
1
2
[()
2
+
1
2
(
z
)
2
] = 0; z = (3.4)
Kinematic Free Surface Boundary Condition(KFSBC):
t
+
1
z
= 0; z = (3.5)
Introducing Taylor expansion:
(x, y, z, t) =
N
n=0
n
(x, y, t) (3.6)
From BBC, we get:
1
=
2
Gh
0
(3.7)
where
G =
1
1 +
2
|h|
2
(3.8)
11
12 CHAPTER 3. NEW EQUATION SYSTEMS
From Laplace equation,
(n + 2)(n + 1)
n+2
+
2
[(n + 2)(n + 1)|h|
2
n+2
+ (n + 1)
2
h
n+1
+ 2(n + 1)h
n+1
+
2
n
] = 0 (n = 0, 1, 2, ...)
(3.9)
From the last 3 equations above, we get:
2
=
2
2
G
2
0
+
4
[
G
2
2

2
hh
0
+ Gh (Gh
0
)] + O(
6
) (3.10)
3
=
4
[
G
2
2
h
2
0
6
+
1
3
Gh (G
2
0
) +
1
6
G
2
(Gh
0
)] + O(
2
) (3.11)
4
=

4
24
G
2
(G
2
0
) + O(
6
) (3.12)
so,
=
0
+
1
+
2
2
+
3
3
+
4
4
+ ...
=
0
2
Gh
0

2
2
G
2
2
+
4
[
G
2
2

2
hh
0
+ Gh (Gh
0
)]
2
+
4
[
G
2
2
h
2
0
6
+
1
3
Gh (G
2
0
) +
1
6
G
2
(Gh
0
)]
3
+ [
4
24
G
2
(G
2
0
) + O(
6
)]
4
+ O(
6
)
(3.13)
Introduce
=
a
+ (1 )
b
(3.14)
where
a
,
b
are at z
a
, z
b
respectively.
In GKW98, the denitions of z
a
, z
b
are:
z
a
= {[
1
9
{
8
567(1 )
}
1/2
+{
8
567(1 )
}
1/2
]
1/2
1}h (3.15)
z
b
= {[
1
9
{
8
567(1 )
}
1/2
]
1/2
1}h (3.16)
0.2 (3.17)
Plugging
a
and
b
into

, one obtains:
3.1. MAURICIO F, GOBBI (2000) O(
4
) 13
=
0

2
(AhGh
0
+
1
2
Bh
2
G
2
0
)
+
4
{Bh
2
[
1
2
G
2
2
hh
0
+ Gh (Gh
0
)]
+ Ch
3
[
1
6
G
2
2
h
2
0
+
1
3
Gh (G
2
0
) +
1
6
G
2
(Gh
0
)]
+ Dh
4
1
24
G
2
(G
2
0
)}
+ O(
6
)
(3.18)
where
_
_
A =
1
h
[(h + z
a
) + (1 )(h + z
b
)]
B =
1
h
2
[(h + z
a
)
2
+ (1 )(h + z
b
)
2
]
C =
1
h
3
[(h + z
a
)
3
+ (1 )(h + z
b
)
3
]
D =
1
h
4
[(h + z
a
)
4
+ (1 )(h + z
b
)
4
]
(3.19)
Inverse the equation above, we get
0
in terms of

:
0
=

+
2
[AhGh
+
1
2
Bh
2
G
2
]
+
4
[AhGh (AhGh
+
1
2
Bh
2
G
2
)
+
1
2
Bh
2
G
2
(AhGh
+
1
2
Bh
2
G
2
)]

4
{Bh
2
[
1
2
G
2
2
hh
+ Gh (Gh
)]
+ Ch
3
[
1
6
G
2
2
h
2
+
1
3
Gh (G
2
) +
1
6
G
2
(Gh
)]
+ Dh
4
1
24
G
2
(G
2
)}
+ O(
6
)
(3.20)
Plug it into (3.13), we have:
=

+
2
[(Ah )F
1
+ (Bh
2
2
)F
2
]
+
4
[(Ah )F
3
+ (Bh
2
2
)F
4
) + (Ch
3
3
)F
5
+ (Dh
4
4
)F
6
]
(3.21)
Where
_
_
F
1
= Gh
F
2
=
1
2
G
2
F
3
= h (Ahh
) +
1
2
h (Bh
2
)
F
4
=
1
2
2
(Ahh
)
+
1
4
2
(Bh
2
1
2
2
hh
h (h
)
F
5
=
1
6
2
h
2
1
3
h (
2
1
6
2
(h
)
F
6
=
1
24
2
(
2
)
(3.22)
Then,
u = =
+
2
[((AhF
1
) F
1
F
1
h)
+ ((Bh
2
F
2
)
2
F
2
2F
2
h)]
+
4
[((AhF
3
) F
3
F
3
h)
+ ((Bh
2
F
4
)
2
F
4
2F
4
h)
+ ((Ch
3
F
5
)
3
F
5
3
2
F
5
h)
+ ((Dh
4
F
6
)
4
F
6
4
3
F
6
h)]
(3.23)
Plug this equation into
M =
_

h
dz =
_
H
0
d
then
M = H
+
2
H{(AhF
1
)
H
2
F
1
F
1
h
+ (Bh
2
F
2
)
H
2
3
F
2
HF
2
h}
+
4
H{(AhF
3
)
H
2
F
3
F
3
h
+ (Bh
2
F
4
)
H
2
3
F
4
HF
4
h
+ (Ch
3
F
5
)
H
3
4
F
5
H
2
F
5
h
+ (Dh
4
F
6
)
H
4
5
F
6
H
3
F
6
h}
4
) 15
(3.24)
Plug (51) into DFSBC and then evaluate it at = H, we get
+

t
+
1
2
|
|
2
+
2
[(A
t
hF
1
+ (Ah H)F
1t
) + (B
t
h
2
F
2
+ (Bh
2
H
2
)F
2t
)]
+
2
[
{((Ah H)F
1
) + F
1
+ ((Bh
2
H
2
)F
2
) + 2F
2
H}
+
1
2
(F
1
+ 2HF
2
)
2
]
+
4
[(A
t
hF
3
+ (Ah H)F
3t
) + (B
t
h
2
F
4
+ (Bh
2
H
2
)F
4t
)
+ (C
t
h
3
F
5
+ (Ch
3
H
3
)F
5t
+ (D
t
h
4
F
6
+ (Dh
4
H
4
)F
6t
)]
+
4
[
1
2
|((Ah H)F
1
) + F
1
+((Bh
2
H
2
)F
2
) + 2F
2
H|
2
+
[((Ah H)F
3
) + F
3
+((Bh
2
H
2
)F
4
) 2F
4
H
+ ((Ch
3
H
3
)F
5
) + 3F
5
H
2
+((Dh
4
H
4
)F
6
) 4F
6
H
3
]
+ (F
1
+ 2HF
2
)(F
3
+ 2HF
4
+ 3H
2
F
5
+ 4H
3
F
6
)}
= O(
6
)
(3.25)
Introduce:
u(x, y, t) = u
a
+ (1 )u
b
= []|
z=za
+ (1 )[]|
z=z
b
(3.26)
where
[]|
z=za
=
+
2
[((AhF
1
) (h + z
a
)F
1
F
1
h)
+ ((Bh
2
F
2
) (h + z
a
)
2
F
2
2(h + z
a
)F
2
h)]
+
4
[((AhF
3
) (h + z
a
)F
3
F
3
h)
+ ((Bh
2
F
4
) (h + z
a
)
2
F
4
2(h + z
a
)F
4
h)
+ ((Ch
3
F
5
) (h + z
a
)
3
F
5
3(h + z
a
)
2
F
5
h)
+ ((Dh
4
F
6
) (h + z
a
)
4
F
6
4(h + z
a
)
3
F
6
h)]
(3.27)
[]|
z=z
b
is similar. Thus,
u = u
a
+ (1 )u
b
=
+
2
[F
1
(Ah h) + F
2
((Bh
2
) 2Ahh)]
+
4
[F
3
(Ah h) + F
4
((Bh
2
) 2Ahh)
+ F
5
((Ch
3
) 3Bh
2
h) + F
6
((Dh
4
) 4h
3
(h)]
+ O(
6
)
(3.28)
Inverse this equation, then
= u

2
[F
21
((Ah) h) + F
22
((Bh
2
) 2Ahh)]

4
[(F
41
+ F
43
)((Ah) h) + (F
42
+ F
44
)((Bh
2
) 2Ahh)
+ F
45
((Ch
3
) 3Bh
2
h) + F
46
((Dh
4
) 4Ch
3
h)]
(3.29)
where
F
21
= Gh u (3.30)
F
22
=
1
2
G u (3.31)
F
41
= h L (3.32)
F
42
=
1
2
L (3.33)
F
43
= h (Ahh u) +
1
2
h (Bh
2
u) (3.34)
F
44
=
1
2
2
(Ahh u) +
1
4
2
(Bh
2
u)
1
2
2
hh u h (h u) (3.35)
F
45
=
1
6
2
h u
1
3
h ( u)
1
6
2
(h u) (3.36)
F
46
=
1
24
2
( u) (3.37)
(3.38)
L = [h u((Ah) h) +
1
2
u((Bh
2
) 2Ahh)] (3.39)
Substitute
into (3.24), M becomes:

M = H u
+
2
H{L +(AhF
21
)
H
2
F
21
F
21
h
+ (Bh
2
F
22
)
H
2
3
F
22
HF
22
h}

4
H{L
41
+ L
43
+L
42
+L
44
+L
45
+L
46
}
+
4
H{(Ahh L)
H
2
(h L) (h L)h
+ (Bh
2
1
2
L)
H
2
3
(
1
2
L)
H
2
( L)h}
4
) 17
+
4
H{(AhF
43
)
H
2
F
43
F
43
h
+ (Bh
2
F
44
)
H
2
3
F
44
HF
44
h
+ (Ch
3
F
45
)
H
3
4
F
45
H
2
F
45
h
+ (Dh
4
F
46
)
H
4
5
F
46
H
3
F
46
h}
+ O(
6
)
(3.40)
where
L
41
= F
41
A
1
; L
42
= F
42
B
1
L
43
= F
43
A
1
; L
44
= F
44
B
1
L
45
= F
45
C
1
; L
46
= F
46
D
1
A
1
= (Ah) h ; B
1
= (Bh
2
) 2Ahh
C
1
= (Ch
3
) 3Bh
2
h ; D
1
= (Dh
4
) 4Ch
3
h
L
21
= F
21
A
1
; L
22
= F
22
B
1
L = (L
21
+L
22
)
h L = F
41
; h L = F
42
(3.41)
A simplication by some algebra leads to
M = H{ u
+
2
[(Ah
H
2
)(2hF
22
+F
21
) + (Bh
2
H
2
3
)F
22
]
+
4
[(Ah
H
2
)(2hF
42
+F
41
+ 2hF
44
+F
43
)
+ (Bh
2
H
2
2
)(F
42
+ 3hF
45
+F
44
)
+ (Ch
3
H
3
4
)(4hF
46
+F
45
) + (Dh
4
H
4
5
)F
46
]}
+ O(
6
)
(3.42)
Take gradient to Bernoulli Equation (3.25) , we obtain
+ (
)
t
+
1
2
|
|
2
+
2
[(A
t
hF
1
) +((Ah H)F
1t
)
+ (B
t
h
2
F
2
) +((Bh
2
H
2
)F
2t
)]
+
2
{[
[((Ah H)F
1
+ F
1
+ ((Bh
2
H
2
)F
2
) + 2F
2
H]]
+
1
2
(F
1
+ 2HF
2
)
2
}
+
4
[(A
t
hF
3
+ (Ah H)F
3t
) +(B
t
h
2
F
4
+ (Bh
2
H
2
)F
4t
)
+ (C
t
h
3
F
5
+ (Ch
3
H
3
)F
5t
) +(D
t
h
4
F
6
+ (Dh
4
H
4
)F
6t
)]
+
1
2
4
|((Ah H)F
1
) + F
1
+ ((Bh
2
H
2
)F
2
) + 2F
2
H|
2
+
4
{
[((Ah H)F
3
) + F
3
+ ((Bh
2
H2)F
4
) + 2F
4
H
+ ((Ch
3
H
3
)F
5
) + 3F
5
H
2
+ ((Dh
4
H
4
)F
6
) + 4F
6
H
3
]}
+
4
{(F
1
+ 2HF
2
)(F
3
+ 2HF
4
+ 3H
2
F
5
+ 4H
3
F
6
)}
= O(
6
)
(3.43)
Substitute (3.29) into this equation, then
u
t

2
[L
t
]
+
2
[(A
t
hF
21
) +((Ah H)F
21t
)
+ (B
t
h
2
F
22
) +((Bh
2
H
2
)F
22t
)]
+
4
[L
41t
+L
43t
+L
42t
+L
44t
+L
45t
+L
46t
]

4
[(A
t
hh L) ((Ah H)h L
t
)
(B
t
h
2
1
2
L) ((Bh
2
H
2
)
1
2
L
t
)]
+
4
[(A
t
hF
43
+ (Ah H)F
43t
) +(B
t
h
2
F
44
+ (Bh
2
H
2
)F
44t
)
+ (C
t
h
3
F
45
+ (Ch
3
H
3
)F
45t
) +(D
t
h
4
F
46
+ (Dh
4
H
4
)F
46t
)]
=
1
2
| u|
2
+
2
[( u L)]

2
{[ u [((Ah H)F
21
) +((Bh
2
H
2
)F
22
)
+ F
21
+ 2HF
22
]] +
1
2
(F
21
+ 2HF
22
)
2
}

4
{
1
2
|L|
2
( u [L
41
+L
43
+L
42
+L
44
+L
45
+L
46
])}

4
{{ u [((Ah H)h L) +h L
4
) 19
+ ((Bh
2
H
2
)
1
2
L) + LH]}
+ {L [((Ah H)F
21
+ F
21
+ ((Bh
2
H
2
)F
22
+ 2HF
22
]}
+
1
2
{2F
21
h L + 4H
2
F
22
L
+ 2HF
21
L + 4HF
22
h L}}
1
2
4
|((Ah H)F
21
) + F
21
+ ((Bh
2
H
2
)F
22
) + 2HF
22
|
2

4
{ u [((Ah H)F
43
) + F
43
+ ((Bh
2
H
2
)F
42
) + 2F
44
H
+ ((Ch
3
H
3
)F
45
) + 3F
45
H
2
+ ((Dh
4
H
4
)F
46
) + 4F
46
H
3
]}

4
{(F
21
+ 2HF
22
)(F
43
+ 2HF
44
+ 3H
2
F
45
+ 4H
3
F
46
)}
+ O(
6
)
(3.44)
Utilizing F
42
=
1
2
L, F
41
= h L, the upper equation can be simplied as:
U
t
=

2
(| u|
2
) +
1
+
2
(3.45)
where
U = u
+
2
[(A1)h(2hF
22
+F
21
) + (B 1)h
2
F
22
]
+
4
[(A1)h(2hF
42
+F
41
+ 2hF
44
+F
43
)
+ (B 1)h
2
(F
42
+ 3hF
45
+F
44
)
+ (C 1)h
3
(4hF
46
+F
45
)
+ (D 1)h
4
F
46
]
(3.46)
1
=
2
[F
21t
+ (2h +
2
2
)F
22t
]
+
4
[(F
41t
+ F
43t
) + (2h +
2
2
)(F
42t
+ F
44t
)
+ (3h
2
+ 3h
2
2
+
3
3
)F
45t
+ (4h
3
+ 6h
2
2
+ 4h
3
3
+
4
4
)F
46t
]
(3.47)
2
=
2
{ u [(Ah H)(F
21
+ 2hF
22
)
+ (Bh
2
H
2
)F
22
] +
1
2
(F
21
+ 2HF
22
)
2
}

4
{ u [(Ah H)(F
41
+ 2hF
42
+F
43
+ 2hF
44
)
+ (Bh
2
H
2
)(F
42
+F
44
+ 3hF
45
)
+ (Ch
3
H
3
)(F
45
+ 4hF
46
) + (Dh
4
H
4
)F
46
]
+
1
2
|(Ah H)(F
21
+ 2hF
22
) + (Bh
2
H
2
)F
42
|
2
+
1
2
[(F
21
+ 2HF
22
)(F
41
+ 2HF
42
+ F
43
+ 2HF
44
+ 3H
2
F
45
+ 4H
3
F
46
)]}
(3.48)
_
(3.42)
(3.45)
is the 4th order Boussinesq equation with multiple reference levels and moving reference
levels. The second order equation sets are: O(
2
)
t
+ M = 0 (3.49)
U
t
=

2
(| u|
2
) +
2
1
+
2
2
(3.50)
M = H{ u}
+
2
H{(Ah
H
2
)(2hF
22
+F
21
) + (Bh
2
H
2
3
)F
22
}
(3.51)
U = u +
2
[(A1)h(2hF
22
+F
21
) + (B 1)h
2
F
22
] (3.52)
1
= [F
21t
+ (2h +
2
2
)F
22t
] (3.53)
2
= { u [(Ah H)(F
21
+ 2hF
22
)
+ (Bh
2
H
2
)F
22
] +
1
2
(F
21
+ 2HF
22
)
2
}
(3.54)
In dimensional form:
t
+ M = 0 (3.55)
U
t
= g

2
(| u|
2
) +
1
+
2
(3.56)
M = H{ u}
+ H{(Ah
H
2
)(2hF
22
+F
21
) + (Bh
2
H
2
3
)F
22
}
(3.57)
3.2. KINEMATICS OF POTENTIAL THEORY 21
U = u + [(A1)h(2hF
22
+F
21
) + (B 1)h
2
F
22
] (3.58)
1
= [F
21t
+ (2h +
2
)F
22t
] (3.59)
2
= { u [(Ah H)(F
21
+ 2hF
22
)
+ (Bh
2
H
2
)F
22
] +
1
2
(F
21
+ 2HF
22
)
2
}
where
F
21
= Gh u (3.60)
F
22
=
1
2
G u (3.61)
G =
1
1 +|h|
2
(3.62)
When setting = 1, then
Ah = h + z
a
, Bh
2
= (h + z
a
)
2
, Ch
3
= (h + z
a
)
3
, Dh
4
= (h + z
a
)
4
u = u
a
F
21
= Gh u = h u
a
+ O(
4
)
F
22
=
1
2
u
a
+ O(
4
)
Equation (3.55) (3.56) recover Kennedy et al (2001) equation (2.8)(2.10) and further
recover Wei et al(1995) equation by setting z
a
= 0.531h.
3.2 Kinematics of Potential Theory
3.2.1 Horizontal velocity u(x, y, z, t)
Substitute (3.29) into (3.23),the horizontal velocity can be written as:
u = u
+
2
{(Ah )(F
21
+ 2hF
22
) + (Bh
2
2
)F
22
}
+
4
{(Ah )(F
41
+F
43
+ 2hF
42
+ 2hF
44
)
+ (Bh
2
2
)(F
42
+F
44
+ 3hF
45
)
+ (Ch
3
3
)(F
45
+ 4hF
46
)
+ (Dh
4
4
)F
46
}
+ O(
6
)
(3.63)
It is interesting that (3.63) has the same form as Uin (3.46), except that Uis evaluated
at z = 0( = h), this indicates that momentum equation (3.45) is the Newton Second
Law evaluated on the surface, even though its in terms of u which is not dened on the
surface.
3.2.2 Vertical velocity w(x, y, z, t)
w(x, y, z, t) =
z
=
2
(F
1
2F
2
)
+
4
(F
3
2F
4
3
2
F
5
4
3
F
6
)
(3.64)
where F
1
, F
2
, F
3
, F
4
, F
5
, F
6
are all in terms of
. Plug (3.29) in to the upper equation,

we have
w(x, y, z, t) =
2
(F
21
+ 2F
22
)

4
(F
41
+ F
43
+ 2F
42
+ 2F
44
+ 3
2
F
45
+ 4
3
F
46
(3.65)
Also interestingly (3.65) is hidden in
2
of momentum equation(3.48), but evaluated
at = H there!
3.2.3 Pressure p(x, y, z, t)
From Euler equation:
w
t
+ uw
x
+ vw
y
= p
z
(3.66)
i.e.
p
z
=
1
+ w
t
+ u w (3.67)
Substitute (3.63)(3.65) into it, we have:
p
z
=
1

2
[F
21t
+ 2F
22t
+ u (F
21
+ 2F
22
+ 2F
22
h)]

4
{(F
41t
+ F
43t
+ 2F
42t
+ 2F
44t
+ 3
2
F
45t
+ 4
3
F
46t
)
+ u (F
41
+F
43
+ 2F
42
+ 2F
44
+ 3
2
F
45
+ 4
3
F
46
+ 6F
45
h + 12
2
F
46
h)
+ (Ah )(F
21
+ 2hF
22
) (F
21
+ 2F
22
h)
+ 2(Ah )(F
21
+ 2hF
22
) F
22
+ (Bh
2
2
)F
22
(F
21
+ 2hF
22
)
+ 2(Bh
2
2
)F
22
F
22
}
+ O(
6
)
(3.68)
3.2. KINEMATICS OF POTENTIAL THEORY 23
Integrate it from surface to z, we obtain:
p p
a
=
z

2
{(H )F
21t
+ (H
2
2
)F
22t
+ u [F
21
(H ) +F
22
(H
2
2
) + 2F
22
h(H )]}

4
{(F
41t
+ F
43t
)(H ) + (F
42t
+ F
44t
)(H
2
2
)
+ 2(H )(F
42
+ F
44
)h
+ F
45t
(H
3
3
) + F
46t
(H
4
4
)
+ u [(H )(F
41
+F
43
)
+ (H
2
2
)(F
42
+F
44
)
+ (H
3
3
)F
45
+ (H
4
4
)F
46
+ 3(H
2
2
)F
45
h + 4(H
3
3
)F
46
h]
+ [Ah(H )
(H
2
2
)
2
](F
21
+ 2hF
22
)
(F
21
+ 2F
22
h)
+ [Ah(H
2
2
) + Bh
2
(H ) (H
3
3
)]F
22
(F
21
+ 2hF
22
)
+ [Bh
2
(H
2
2
) +
1
2
(H
4
4
)]F
22
F
22
}
+ O
6
(3.69)
where p
a
is pressure on the surface.
In summary, for second order approximation,
u = u +
2
{(Ah )(F
21
+ 2hF
22
) + (Bh
2
2
)F
22
} (3.70)
w(x, y, z, t) =
2
(F
21
+ 2F
22
) (3.71)
p = p
a
+
z

2
{( z)F
21t
+ (H
2
2
)F
22t
+ u [F
21
( z) +F
22
(H
2
2
) + 2F
22
h( z)]}
(3.72)
In dimensional form:
u = u +{(Ah )(F
21
+ 2hF
22
) + (Bh
2
2
)F
22
} (3.73)
w(x, y, z, t) = (F
21
+ 2F
22
) (3.74)
p = p
a
+ g( z)
{( z)F
21t
+ (H
2
2
)F
22t
+ u [F
21
( z) +F
22
(H
2
2
) + 2F
22
h( z)]}
(3.75)
3.2.4 Flux per unit width
M =
_

h
udz = (P, Q) (3.76)
3.2.5 Ambient current eld
U =
M
h +
= (U, V ) (3.77)
3.2.6 Potential vorticity
q =
M
h+
h +
(3.78)
3.2.7 Setup-setdown
(3.79)
3.2.8 Phase velocity, wave direction
C

t
||
2
(3.80)
tan
1
(
x
) (3.81)
3.3 Denition of z
a
, z
b
z
a
=
1
h +
1
(3.82)
z
b
=
2
h +
2
(3.83)
u = u
a
+ (1 )u
b
(3.84)
=
a
+ (1 )
b
(3.85)
Optimization of
1
,
1
,
2
,
2
, needs further investigation. In GKW98, z
a
, z
b
, are
dened as (3.15) to (3.17).
Chapter 4
Derivations from Euler Equation
with Vertical Vorticity Retained
O(
2
)
4.1 Nondimensionalization
Dene the following nodimensional variables:
x
= k
0
x, y
= k
0
y, z
= z/h
0
, t
= k
0
C
0
t
= /a
0
, h
= h/h
0
(4.1)
where () means nodimensional quantities ,and () means dimensional quantities. Then,
0
=
a
0
l
0
C
0
2h
0
(u
, v
) =
h
0
a
0
C
0
(u, v)w
=
2h
2
0
a
0
l
0
C
0
wp
=
p
ga
0
(4.2)
where l
0
is typical wave length, l
0
= 2/k
0
; C
0
is typical phase speed, C
0
=
gh
0
; h
0
is
typical water depth; a
0
is typical wave amplitude; k
0
is typical wave number.
Governing Equation for Potential Flow repeated here:
Laplace:
xx
+
yy
+
zz
= 0, h z (4.3)
BBC:
z
+h = 0, z = h (4.4)
DFSBC:
t
+
1
2
()
2
+ g = 0, z = (4.5)
KFSBC:
t
+ =
z
, z = (4.6)
25
26CHAPTER 4. DERIVATIONS FROMEULER EQUATION WITHVERTICAL VORTICITY RETA
Non-dimensional form (primes are dropped):
Laplace:
2
+
zz
= 0, h z (4.7)
BBC:
z
+
2
h = 0, z = h (4.8)
DFSBC:
+
t
+
1
2
[()
2
+
1
2
(
z
)
2
] = 0, z = (4.9)
KFSBC:
t
+
1
z
= 0, z = (4.10)
where
2
= k
0
h
0
is dispersion index and = a
0
/h
0
is nonlinearity index.
Governing Equation from Eulerian Point of View
COM:
u = u
x
+ v
y
+ w
z
= 0 (4.11)
EOM:
x : u
t
+ uu
x
+ vu
y
+ wu
z
=
1
p
x
(4.12)
y : v
t
+ uv
x
+ vv
y
+ wv
z
=
1
p
y
(4.13)
z : w
t
+ uw
x
+ vw
y
+ ww
z
=
1
p
z
g (4.14)
Nondimensional form:
COM:
2
u
x
+
2
v
y
+ w
z
= 0 (4.15)
EOM:
Du
Dt
+p = 0 (4.16)
Dw
Dt
+ p
z
+ 1/ = 0 (4.17)
where
D
Dt
=

t
+ (u ) +

2
w

z
(4.18)
u = (u, v), = (

x
,

y
) (4.19)
4.2. CONSISTENCY OF KINEMATICS BETWEEN EULER THEORYANDPOTENTIAL THEORY
Boundary Condition (BC):
KFSBC:
t
+
2
u
i
x
i
w = 0, z = (4.20)
DFSBC:
p = p
a
= 0, z = (4.21)
BBC:
2
u
i
h
x
i
+ w = 0, z = h (4.22)
Non-horizontal vorticity:
u
i
z

w
x
i
= 0, h z (4.23)
4.2 Consistency of Kinematics between Euler Theory
and Potential Theory
Integrate COM from z = h to z , we obtain:
_
z
h
2
u
i
x
i
dz +
_
z
h
w
z
dz = 0 (4.24)
Utilizing Leibnizs Rule, the upper equation becomes:
2

x
i
_
z
h
u
i
dz + w|
z
[
2
u
i
h
x
i
|
h
+ w|
h
] = 0 (4.25)
The square bracket is BBC (4.22), then the upper equation becomes:
w(x, y, z, t) =
2

x
i
_
z
h
u
i
dz (4.26)
Introduce Taylor expansion of u
i
as:
u
i
= u
ib
+
u
i
z
|
z=h
(h + z)
+

2
u
i
z
2
|
z=h
(h + z)
2
2
+

3
u
i
z
3
|
z=h
(h + z)
3
6
+ ...
(4.27)
where u
ib
is velocity at bottom z = h .
In order to work out (4.27) in terms of u
ib
, lets work out
u
i
z
|
h
and

2
u
i
z
2
|
h
from
irrotation condition(4.23) rst.
u
i
z
|
h
=
w
x
i
|
h
=
2
{

x
i
[

x
j
_
z
h
u
j
dz]}|
z=h
=
2
{

x
i
[
_
z
h
u
j
x
j
dz + u
h
x
j
]}|
z=h
=
2
{
_
z
h
2
x
i
x
j
u
j
dz + (
u
j
x
j
)
z=h
h
x
i
+

x
i
(u
jb
h
x
j
)}|
z=h
=
2
{(
u
j
x
j
)
z=h
h
x
i
+

x
i
(u
jb
h
x
j
)}
=
2
[( u)|
z=h
h +(u
b
h)] + O(
4
)
(4.28)
In order to work out ( u)|
z=h
in terms of u
b
, we have to work out u rst:
Integrate non-horizontal rotation condition (4.23) fromh to z , we obtain:
u
i
=
_
z
h
w
x
i
dz + u
ib
(4.29)
so,
u
i
x
i
=

x
i
_
z
h
w
x
i
dz

x
i
u
ib
=
_
z
h
2
w
x
i
x
j
dz + (
w
x
i
)|
z=h
h
x
i
+

x
i
u
ib
(4.30)
then,
u
i
x
i
|
z=h
=
_
h
h
2
w
x
i
x
j
dz + (
w
x
i
)|
z=h
h
x
i
+

x
i
u
ib
=
w
x
i
|
z=h
h
x
i
+

x
i
u
ib
where
w
x
i
|
z=h
is again (4.28). Plug (4.28) into the upper equation, it becomes:
u
i
x
i
|
z=h
=
2
[(
u
j
x
j
)|
z=h
h
x
i
+

x
i
(u
jb
h
x
j
)]
h
x
i
+

x
i
u
ib
(4.31)
(4.31) is an iterative formula for (
u
i
x
i
)|
h
= ( u)|
h
. Iterate it once, we have:
u
i
x
i
|
z=h
=
2
[
u
jb
x
j
h
x
i
+

x
i
(u
jb
h
x
j
)]
h
x
i
+
u
ib
x
i
+ O(
4
) (4.32)
4.2. CONSISTENCY OF KINEMATICS BETWEEN EULER THEORYANDPOTENTIAL THEORY
Plug (4.32) into (4.28), we get
u
i
z
|
h
=
w
x
i
|
h
=
2
[
u
jb
x
j
h
x
i
+

x
i
(u
jb
h
x
j
)] + O(
4
)
(4.33)
Plug (4.27) into (4.26),utilizing (4.33) and (4.31), then
w(x, y, z, t) =
2

x
i
[(h + z)u
ib
+
(h + z)
2
2
u
i
z
|
z=h
+
(h + z)
3
6
2
u
i
z
2
|
h
+ ...]
=
2

x
j
[(h + z)u
jb
]
+
4

x
j
[
(h + z)
2
2
[

x
j
(u
kb
h
x
k
) + (
u
k
x
k
)|
z=h
h
x
j
]]

2

x
j
[
(h + z)
3
6
2
u
j
z
2
|
h
]
=
2

x
j
[(h + z)u
jb
]
+
4

x
j
{
(h + z)
2
2
[

x
j
(u
kb
h
x
k
) +
u
kb
x
k
h
x
j
]}

2

x
j
[
(h + z)
3
6
2
u
j
z
2
|
h
]
+ O(
6
)
(4.34)
In the upper equation ,

2
u
j
z
2
|
h
is unknown yet, but we can use it to get a second order
u
i
expression rst: Plug (4.34) into (4.29) , we obtain:
u
i
= u
ib
2
(h + z)

x
i
(
hu
jb
x
j
)
2
(
z
2
2

h
2
2
)

x
i
(

x
j
u
jb
) (4.35)
(4.32) is the same as Nwogu(1993). Then, we have
2
u
j
z
2
|
h
=
2

2
x
j
x
l
u
lb
+ O(
4
) (4.36)
Plug (4.36) in to (4.34), then,we nally get the expression for w(x, y, z, t) :
w =
2

x
j
[(h + z)u
jb
]
+
4

x
j
{
(h + z)
2
2
[

x
j
(u
kb
h
x
k
) +
u
kb
x
k
h
x
j
]}
+
4

x
j
{
(h + z)
3
6
x
j
x
k
u
lb
}
+ O(
6
)
(4.37)
(4.35) and (4.37) are kinematics in terms of u
b
.
Now switch them into terms of u Let u
i
= (u
i
)
z=z
, u
i
= (u
i
)
z=z
, from(4.35), we
get:
u
i
= u
ib
2
(h + z
)

x
i
(
hu
jb
x
j
)
2
(
z
2
2

h
2
2
)

x
i
(

x
j
u
jb
) (4.38)
Similarly,
u
i
= u
ib
2
(h + z
)

x
i
(
hu
jb
x
j
)
2
(
z
2
2

h
2
2
)

x
i
(

x
j
u
jb
) (4.39)
Let
u
i
= u
i
+ (1 )u
i
(4.40)
Plug (4.38) (4.39) into (4.40) ,then
u
i
= u
ib

2
Ah

x
i
(
hu
jb
x
j
)

2
(
B
2
A)h
2

x
i
(

x
j
u
jb
)
+ O(
4
)
(4.41)
Inverse (4.41) , then
u
ib
= u
i
+
2
Ah

x
i
(
h u
j
x
j
)
+
2
B 2A
2
h
2

x
i
(

x
j
u
j
)
+ O(
4
)
(4.42)
Plug(4.42) into (4.35) and (4.37), we have
u
i
= u
i
+
2
(Ah )

x
i
(
h u
j
x
j
)
+
2
(
B 2A
2
h
2

2
2
+ h)

x
i
(

x
j
u
j
)
+ O(
4
)
(4.43)
and
4.3. BOUSSINESQ EQUATION WITH VERTICAL VORTICITY RETAINED 31
w(x, y, z, t) =
2

x
j
( u
j
)

4

x
j
{[Ah

x
j
(
h u
l
x
l
) +
B 2A
2
h
2

2
x
j
x
l
u
l
]

2
2
[

x
j
( u
k
h
x
k
) +
u
k
x
k
h
x
j
]

3
6
x
j
(

x
l
u
l
)}
(4.44)
where = (h + z), A, B are dened as (3.19). It is easy to prove that (4.43) and (4.44)
are the same as (3.70 and (3.65), therefore kinematics from Euler theory and potential
theory are identical, as well as pressure distribution (3.72).
4.3 Boussinesq Equation with Vertical Vorticity Re-
tained
4.3.1 Continuity equation (COM)
Integrate COM (4.15) from h to , it gives
_

h
2
u
i
x
i
dz +
_

h
2
w
z
dz = 0 (4.45)
Utilizing Leibnizs rule, considering BBC(4.22) and KFSBC(4.20), it is then
t
+

x
i
_

h
u
i
dz = 0 (4.46)
Its the same as (3.1). Because u
i
is the same as potential theory,so continuity equation
is nally the same as potential theory too.
4.3.2 Momentum equation evaluated at z =
Integrating (4.17)from z to gives
_

z
p
z
dz =
_

z
Dw
Dt
dz
_

z
1
dz (4.47)
i.e.
p|
p(x, y, z, t) =
_

z
Dw
Dt
dz
z
(4.48)
Considering DFSBC(4.21), then p|
= 0. And take horizontal gradient to the upper

equation, then it gives
p =
_

z
Dw
Dt
dz +
=
_

z
[
Dw
Dt
]dz +
Dw
Dt
|
z=
+
(4.49)
Plug (4.49 into (4.16), then
Du
Dt
+
_

z
[
Dw
Dt
]dz +[
Dw
Dt
|
z=
+ 1] = 0 (4.50)
This is the momentum equation valid for any z level.
As remarked before, derivation of momentum equation(3.45) is Newton Second Law
evaluated at z = . Now, we set z = in (4.50) for the purpose of consistency.
In (4.50) , we evaluate the three terms one by one:
i)
Du
Dt
:
Du
Dt
=
u
t
+ (u )u +

2
w
u
z
(4.51)
where
u
t
can be obtained from(3.70):
u
t
= u
t
+
2
{(Ah )(F
21
+ 2hF
22
) + (Bh
2
2
)F
22
}
t
= u
t
+
2
{[Ah(F
21
+ 2hF
22
)
t
] (F
21
+ 2hF
22
)
t
+ (Bh
2
F
22
)
t
2
(F
22
)
t
}
(4.52)
Set = h + , then
u
t
|
= { u
+
2
[(A1)h(F
21
+ 2hF
22
) + (B 1)h
2
F
22
]}
t

2
[(F
21t
+ 2hF
22t
) + (
2
2
) + 2h)F
22t
]
= U
t

2
[(F
21t
+ 2hF
22t
) + (
2
2
) + 2h)F
22t
]
(4.53)
where
U = u +
2
[(A1)h(F
21
+ 2hF
22
) + (B 1)h
2
F
22
]
+ O(
4
)
is the same as (3.52).
The second term in (4.51) is (u )u, from(3.70) we have
(u )u = ( u ) u
+
2
( u )[(Ah )(F
21
+ 2hF
22
) + (Bh
2
2
)F
22
]
+
2
([(Ah )(F
21
+ 2hF
22
) + (Bh
2
2
)F
22
] ) u
+ O(
4
)
= ( u ) u
+
2
( u [(Ah (H + (z )))(F
21
+ 2hF
22
)
+ (Bh
2
(H + (z )
2
))F
22
]
+
2
{[(Ah (H + (z )))(F
21
+ 2hF
22
)
+ (Bh
2
(H + (z )
2
))F
22
] } u
(4.54)
By setting z = , the upper equation gives:
(u )u|
= ( u ) u +
2
( u ) u
1
+
2
( u
1
) u
+
2
u (F
21
+ 2hF
22
+ 2HF
22
)
(4.55)
where
u
1
= (Ah H)(F
21
+ 2hF
22
) + (Bh
2
H
2
)F
22
(4.56)
u
1
is the second order (O(
2
)) part of u at z = . See equation(3.70).
The third term in (4.51) is

2
w
u
z
. Plug (3.70)(3.71) into it,then
2
w
u
z
=
2
{(F
21
+ 2F
22
)(F
21
+ 2hF
22
+ 2F
22
)} + O(
4
) (4.57)
By setting = h + = H, it gives
2
w
u
z
=
2
{(F
21
+ 2HF
22
)(F
21
+ 2hF
22
+ 2HF
22
)} + O(
4
) (4.58)
ii)
_
z
[
Dw
Dt
]dz: This term is zero when setting z = , i.e.
_

z
[
Dw
Dt
]dz|
z=
= 0 (4.59)
iii)
Dw
Dt
|
z=
:
Dw
Dt
=
w
t
+ (u )w +

2
w
w
z
(4.60)
where the rst term is calculated by (3.71):
w
t
=
2
(F
21t
+ 2F
22t
) (4.61)
Plug = H into it, then
w
t
|
z=
=
2
(F
21t
+ 2HF
22t
) (4.62)
The second term is calculated by (3.70) and (3.71)
(u )w =
2
( u )F
21
2
2( u h)F
22

2
2 u F
22
+ O(
4
)
(4.63)
By setting = H, then
(u )w =
2
u (F
21
+ 2hF
22
+ 2HF
22
) + O(
4
) (4.64)
The third term can also be obtained from (3.71):
2
w
w
z
|
z=
=
2
(F
21
+ 2HF
22
)2F
22
+ O(
4
) (4.65)
Plug i) ii) and iii) into (4.50), utilizing the following identities:
( u ) u
1
+ ( u
1
) u = ( u u
1
) + ( u
1
) u + ( u) u
1
( u ) u =
1
2
( u u) + ( u) u
we obtain
U
t
=
1
2
( u u) +
2
1
+
2
2
+
3
(4.66)
where
1
= [F
21t
+ (2h +
2
2
)F
22t
] (4.67)
2
= { u u
1
+
1
2
(F
21
+ 2HF
22
)
2
} (4.68)
3
= [( u) u +
2
( u
1
) u +
2
( u) u
1
+
2
u (F
21
+ 2hF
22
+ 2HF
22
)

2
u (F
21
+ 2hF
22
+ 2HF
22
)]
(4.69)
1
, 2 are the same as potential theory (3.53) and (3.54).
3
can be proved to be (u)|
z=
u|
z=
, i. e.
3
= (u)|
z=
u|
z=
= |
z=
u|
z=
(4.70)
Comments: U is the horizontal velocity u at z = 0;
3
is contribution due to vertical
vorticity on the surface.
4.3.3 Momentum equation evaluated at arbitrary level z = z
c
(4.50) can also be evaluated at an arbitrary level
z = z
c
(x, y, t) =
c
h(x, y) +
c
(x, y, t) (4.71)
and an optimized z
c
may lead to better results.
In this case,
1
= [z
c
F
21t
+ (2hz
c
+ z
2
c
)F
22t
]
+ [( z
c
)(F
21t
+ ( + z
c
)F
22t
)]
+ [2h( z
c
)F
22t
]
= [2F
23t
+
2
2
F
22t
]
(4.72)
2
= { u u
1c
+
1
2
(F
21
+ 2HF
22
)
2
+
(z
2
c

2
2
2
( u )(2F
22
)
+ (z
c
)( u )(2F
23
)}
(4.73)
3
= [( u) u +
2
( u
1c
) u +
2
( u) u
1c
+
2
z
c
u(F
21
+ 2hF
22
+ 2H
c
F
22
)

2
z
c
u (F
21
+ 2hF
22
+ 2H
c
F
22
)]
= (u)|
z=zc
u
z=zc
= |
z=zc
u
z=zc
(4.74)
where
H
c
= h + z
c
(4.75)
u
1c
= (Ah H
c
)(F
21
+ 2hF
22
) + (Bh
2
H
2
c
)F
22
(4.76)
It is seen from (3.70) that u
1c
is the second order part of velocity at z = z
c
z
c
is free to choose, such as
_
_
z
c
= on the surface
z
c
= 0 on the still water level
z
c
= h on the bottom
The optimization of z
c
to get better dispersion and nonlinear properties is left for further
investigation.
Comments:the result that in (4.74) we have
3
= ( u)|
z=zc
u
z=zc
is very
natural, because the horizontal Euler equation:
u
t
+ (u )u +

2
w
u
z
= p
can always be written as:
u
t
+
1
2
(u u) + (u) u +

2
w
u
z
= p
and the above equation is valid at any vertical level.
One may ask : given that the kinematics between Euler theory and potential theory
are identical, why one has the vertical vorticity retained while the other does not? The
answer is: only non-horizontal vorticity condition is used to work out the kinematics.
But in potential theory, the vertical vorticity is assumed to be zero by introducing ow
potential . While if we rewrite the DFSBC (3.4) in such a way:
+
t
+
1
2
[ +
1
2
(
z
)
2
] = 0; z = (4.77)
where is horizontal velocity u = u + u
1
, then as we take gradient to this equation to
get momentum equation in the derivations from potential theory, we can see that
1
2
( ) =
1
2
(u u)
= (u )u (u) u
(4.78)
where the last term gives the vorticity term accordingly. Since here u is only horizontal
velocity, doing so doesnt harm the non-horizontal-vorticity condition in the potential
ow, but the non-vertical-vorticity condition is released.
Chapter 5
Formulations in Curvilinear
Coordinates
5.1 Final Form of Equations
The nal second order Boussinesq equation is:
COM:
t
+ M = 0 (5.1)
M = H{ u}
+
2
H{(Ah
H
2
)(2hF
22
+F
21
) + (Bh
2
H
2
3
)F
22
}
= H{ u}
+
2
H{(Ah
H
2
)2F
23
+ (Bh
2
H
2
3
2Ah
2
+ hH)F22}
(5.2)
where
F
23
=
1
2
G (h u) (5.3)
and F
21
= 2(F
23
hF
22
) are substituted in for the purpose of writing the equation in the
same form as Wei et al (1995), see equation(2.2).
EOM:
U
t
=
1
2
( u u) +
2
1
+
2
2
+
3
(5.4)
U = u +
2
[(A1)h(F
21
+ 2hF
22
) + (B 1)h
2
F
22
]
= u +
2
[(A1)h2F
23
+ (B 2A+ 1)h
2
F
22
]
(5.5)
37
38 CHAPTER 5. FORMULATIONS IN CURVILINEAR COORDINATES
1
= [z
c
F
21t
+ (2hz
c
+ z
2
c
)F
22t
]
+ [( z
c
)(F
21t
+ ( + z
c
)F
22t
)]
+ [2h( z
c
)F
22t
]
= [2F
23t
+
2
2
F
22t
]
(5.6)
2
= { u u
1c
+
1
2
(F
21
+ 2HF
22
)
2
+ (z
c
)( u )(2F
23
)
+
z
2
c

2
2
2
( u )(2F
22
)}
= { u u
1c
+
1
2
(2F
23
+ 2F
22
)
2
+ (z
c
)( u )(2F
23
)
+
z
2
c

2
2
2
( u )(2F
22
)}
(5.7)
3
= (u)|
z=zc
u
z=zc
= |
z=zc
u
z=zc
= {( u) u +
2
( u
1c
) u +
2
( u) u
1c
+
2
z
c
u(F
21
+ 2hF
22
+ 2H
c
F
22
)

2
z
c
u (F
21
+ 2hF
22
+ 2H
c
F
22
)}
= {( u) u +
2
( u
1c
) u +
2
( u) u
1c
+
2
z
c
u(2F
23
+ 2z
c
F
22
)

2
z
c
u (2F
23
+ 2z
c
F
22
)}
(5.8)
where
u
1c
= (Ah H
c
)(F
21
+ 2hF
22
) + (Bh
2
H
2
c
)F
22
= 2(Ah H
c
)(F
23
+ (Bh
2
H
2
c
+ 2hH
c
2Ah
2
)F
22
]
(5.9)
Utilizing the following identities:
( u ) u
1
+ ( u
1
) u = ( u u
1
) + ( u
1
) u + ( u) u
1
5.1. FINAL FORM OF EQUATIONS 39
( u ) u =
1
2
( u u) + ( u) u
we can absorb the cross products of
3
into
1
2
( u u) and
2
Then the momentum
equation(EOM) becomes:
U
t
= ( u ) u +
2
1
+
2
2
+
3
(5.10)
and
2
,
3
become:
2
= ( u ) u
1c
( u
1c
) u
{
1
2
(2F
23
+ 2F
22
)
2
+ (z
c
)( u )2F
23
+
z
2
c

2
2
2
( u )2F
22
}
(5.12)
(5.13)
3
=
2
z
c
u(2F
23
+ 2z
c
F
22
)
+
2
z
c
u (2F
23
+ 2z
c
F
22
)
(5.14)
while
1
is still (5.6). The elimination of cross products in
3
makes the implementation
a lot easier, especially for curvilinear representations.
In Chen et al (2000) version of equation, (see equation (2.20)), its actually represent-
ing z
c
= z
, which leads to Bh
2
= (h + z
)
2
= h
2
c
and Ah = h + z
= H
c
, then u
1c
= 0,
so the rst and the second term in the
2
are absent.
In dimensional form
COM:
t
+ M = 0 (5.15)
M = H{ u}
+ H{(Ah
H
2
)2F
23
+ (Bh
2
H
2
3
2Ah
2
+ hH)F22}
(5.16)
EOM:
U
t
= g ( u ) u +
1
+
2
+
3
(5.17)
U = u + [(A 1)h2F
23
+ (B 2A+ 1)h
2
F
22
]
(5.18)
1
= [2F
23t
+
2
F
22t
]
(5.19)
2
= ( u ) u
1c
( u
1c
) u
{
1
2
(2F
23
+ 2F
22
)
2
+ (z
c
)( u )2F
23
+
z
2
c

2
2
( u )2F
22
}
(5.21)
(5.22)
3
= z
c
u(2F
23
+ 2z
c
F
22
)
+ z
c
u (2F
23
+ 2z
c
F
22
)
(5.23)
5.2 Additional Eects for Actual Implementation
In addition to the equations shown above, we need to put the following additional eects
for an actual implementation and from the engineering point of view:
1)damping /friction
2)breaking
3)absorbing boundary
4)subgrid mixing
5)wave generation/source term
6)slots for swash zone
When adding slots and source term(Tao, 1984, Kennedy et al 2000, Chen et al 2000,
Wei & Kirby, 1999) the COM (5.15) becomes
b()
t
= E + f
s
(x, y, t) (5.24)
5.2. ADDITIONAL EFFECTS FOR ACTUAL IMPLEMENTATION 41
where
E = M
= {
1
u
+
2
[(Ah
h +
2
)2F
23
+ (Bh
2
(h + )
2
3
2Ah
2
+ h(h + ))F
22
]}
(5.25)
b() =
_
1, > z
+ (1 )e
[(z
)/h
0
], z
(5.26)
where
z
=
h
0
h
(1 )(1 e
(1h/h
0
)
)
+
h
0

h
1 e
(1h/h
0
)

h
1
+ h
0
(

1
+
1
)
(5.27)
1
= (),
2
= () (5.28)
where
() =
_
( z
) + (z
+ h
0
) +
(1)h
0
(1 e
(1+z
/h
0
)
), z
( + h
0
) +
(1)h
0
e
(z
)/h
0
(1 e
(1+/h
0
)
), z
(5.29)
in which h
0
is a reference level lower than the lower limit of swash zone, is the slot width
relative to a unit width of shoreline. () is the total eective water depth. is a switch
for fully nonlinear v.s. weakly nonlinear.
_
= 0 weakly nonlinear
= 1 fully nonlinear
(5.30)
>> 1 is the shape parameter of the slots . And << 1. Typical values for and
are 2030 and 0.0020.02.
When adding damping, breaking, absorbing, source term and subgrid mixing, the
momentum equation(5.17) becomes:
U
t
= g ( u ) u + (
1
+
2
+
3
)
+
b
+
br
+
sg
+
sp
gp
s
(5.31)
Where
b
,
br
,
sg
,
sp
and gp
s
represent the bottom friction, breaking term, subgrid-
mixing term, sponge layer term and source term respectively.
1) Damping term(friction)
b
=
f
b
h +
u| u| (5.32)
where f
b
is friction coecient. Typical value is f
b
1.0 10
5
2) Breaking term
Breaking is simulated by eddy viscosity approach which takes energy out of the main
ow.
br
=
1
H
[ (
T)] (5.33)
where
T =
1
2
((H u) +(H u)
T
) (5.34)
is a second order tensor represents the rate of strain.
is eddy viscosity given by :
= B
b
2
b
|(h + )
t
| (5.35)
where
B
b
=
_
_
1,
t
2
t
t
t
1,
t

t
2
t
0,
t

t
(5.36)
t
=
_

(F)
t
, t t
0
T
(I)
t
+
tt
0
T
(
(F)
t

(I)
t
), 0 t t
0
T
(5.37)
(I)
t
C
br
_
gh (5.38)
(F)
t
0.15
_
gh (5.39)
T
5.0
_
h/g (5.40)
t
0
is the time when an individual breaking event occurs. C
br
0.30.65.
b
1.01.5. The
process is that the eddy viscosity is turned on when the acceleration
t
is greater than
t
, and turned o when it drops below
t
. The eddy viscosity given by (5.35) is ltered
before being put into
br
in the implementation.
3) Subgrid mixing term
Subgrid mixing is based on Smagorinsky theory(Smagorinsky 1963)
sg
=
1
H
[ (
bs
T)] (5.41)
where
br
= C
m
xy|
D|
1/2
= C
m
xy(
D :

D)
1/2
5.3. SOME NOTES ON CURVILINEAR COORDINATE 43
(5.42)
D =
1
2
[U+ (U)
T
] (5.43)
and U = (U, V )is short-wave averaged velocity dened in (3.77). C
m
is a coecient,
typical value is about 0.2 in Funwave2D version 1.0 . xy represents the grid size of
the numerical scheme, will be substituted by

g
0
d
1
d
2
where

g
0
is the Jacobian of
coordinate transform and
1
and
2
are curvilinear coordinates to be addressed later.
4)Sponge layer term(Absorbing term)
sp
=
1
u +
2
T
sp
+
3
_
g/h(e
1
, e
2
) (5.44)
where the rst term represents Newton cooling, the second term represents pseudo-viscous
dissipation and the third term represents sponge lter
i
= C
i
f(x), (i = 1, 2, 3) (5.45)
for a sponge layer at down stream starts from location x = x
s
and ends at x = x
e
,
f(x) is given as:
f(x) =
e
xxs
xexs
1
e 1
(5.46)
C
1
, C
2
, C
3
are parameters to control the strength of sponge layer. is the frequency
of waves to be absorbed, for random wave, its chosen to be the peak angular frequency
of the random wave spectra.
5) Source term (wave generation)
We hereby use Chawla & Kirby (2000)s one-way wave maker theory. Detailed deriva-
tions please see appendix. The advantage of one-way wave maker is to save some grids
behind the wave maker, otherwise we need more wave absorbing grids.
f
s
= D
1
exp(
s
x
2
) (5.47)
and
p
s
= D
2
xexp(
s
x
2
) (5.48)
where D
1
, D
2
are dened in appendix (A.21) and (A.10), x is local Cartesian coordinate
measured from the center of source region.
5.3 Some Notes on Curvilinear Coordinate
Before we can write the governing equation(5.24) and (5.31) in curvilinear coordinate
system, let us dene the curvilinear coordinate system rst.(Shi, 2001)
As shown in gure 5.1, the usual Cartesian coordinates (y
1
, y
2
) = (x, y) are trans-
formed to curvilinear coordinates (x
1
, x
2
) = (
1
,
2
) = (, )
For the convenience of dening inner products and cross products, Covariant Basis
(g
1
, g
2
) and Contravariant Basis (g
1
, g
2
) are dened as in gure 5.2
Figure 5.1: Cartesian coordinate and curvilinear coordinate
And the velocity u is decomposed according to these two basis:
u = u
1
g
1
+ u
2
g
2
= ug
1
+ vg
2
(5.49)
and
u = u
1
g
1
+ u
2
g
2
(5.50)
where (u
1
, u
2
) (u, v) is called Contravariant Component and (u
1
, u
2
) is called Co-
variant Component.
In our implementation, contravariant component is employed for it gives simpler
boundary conditions(Shi,2001)
Some basic denitions about the coordinate transform:
g
ik
= g
i
g
k
=
y
i
y
j
x
i
x
k
(5.51)
g
ik
= g
i
g
k
(5.52)
j
i
= g
i
g
j
= g
j
g
i
=
_
1, i = j
0, i = j
(5.53)
u
i
= g
ik
u
k
(5.54)
u
i
= g
ik
u
k
(5.55)
g
i
= g
ij
g
j
(5.56)
g
i
= g
ij
g
j
(5.57)
Figure 5.2: Covariant basis and contravariant basis
g
ik
g
jk
=
j
i
= [
1 0 0
0 1 0
0 0 1
] (5.58)
g
0
= J =
y
1
x
1
y
1
x
2
y
1
x
3
y
2
x
1
y
2
x
2
y
2
x
3
y
3
x
1
y
3
x
2
y
3
x
3
(5.59)
The last two equations give:
g
ij
= (g
rs
g
mn
g
rn
gms)/g
0
(5.60)
where
_
_
i = 1 : r = 2, m = 3; j = 1 : s = 2, n = 3
i = 2 : r = 2, m = 1; j = 2 : s = 3, n = 1
i = 3 : r = 1, m = 2; j = 3 : s = 1, n = 2
(5.61)
Gradient, Divergence and Curl
If , u,

T represent scalar, vector, and second order tensor respectively, then

g
ij

x
j
g
i
=

x
j
g
j
!
i
(5.62)
u = u
i
,i
=
1
g
0
x
i
(
g
0
u
i
) (5.63)
u = u
k
,i
g
k
g
i
(5.64)
where
u
k
,i
=
u
k
x
i
+ C
k
ji
u
j
(5.65)
u
i
,j
=
u
i
x
j
+ C
i
kj
u
k
(5.66)
and
C
i
kj
=

2
y
l
x
k
x
j
x
i
y
l
(5.67)
is called Christoel Symbol of the second kind.
u
k,j
= g
ks
u
s
,j
(5.68)
T = T
ij
g
i
g
j

T = T
ik
,k
g
i
(5.69)
T = T
i
j
g
i
g
j
T = g
jk
T
i
j,k
g
i
(5.70)
T = T
ij
g
i
g
j
T = g
jk
T
ij,k
g
i
(5.71)
where
T
ij
,k
=
T
ij
x
k
+ C
i
mk
T
mj
+ C
j
mk
T
im
(5.72)
T
ij,k
=
T
ij
x
k
C
m
ik
T
mj
C
m
jk
T
im
(5.73)
T
i
j,k
=
T
i
j
x
k
+ C
i
mk
T
m
j
C
m
jk
T
i
m
(5.74)
Then
T
ik
,k
=
T
ik
x
k
+ C
i
mk
T
mk
+ C
k
mk
T
im
=
T
ik
x
k
+ C
k
mk
T
im
+ C
i
mk
T
mk
=
T
ik
x
k
+
ln
g
0
x
m
T
im
+ C
i
mk
T
mk
=
1
g
0
x
k
(
g
0
T
ik
) + C
i
mk
T
mk
(5.75)
Then,
T = T
ik
,k
g
i
= (
1
g
0
x
k
(
g
0
T
ik
) + C
i
mk
T
mk
)g
i
(5.76)
u =
1
g
0
e
inm
u
m,n
g
i
(5.77)
where e
inm
is permutation tensor. Also we have another permutation tensor e
ijk
given by:
g
i
g
j
=
g
0
e
ijk
g
k
(5.78)
and
e
inm
e
ijk
=
n
j

m
k

n
k
m
j
(5.79)
Thus,
(u) v = (
1
g
0
e
inm
u
m,n
g
i
) v
j
g
j
=
1
g
0
u
m,n
v
j
e
inm
g
i
g
j
=
1
g
0
u
m,n
v
j
e
inm
g
0
e
ijk
g
k
= u
m,n
v
j
(e
inm
e
ijk
)g
k
= u
m,n
v
j
(
n
j

m
k

n
k
m
j
)g
k
= (u
k,j
v
j
u
j,k
v
j
)g
k
= (g
ks
u
s
,j
v
j
g
js
u
s
,k
v
j
)g
kl
g
l
= (
l
s
u
s
,j
v
j
g
js
g
kl
u
s
,k
v
j
)g
l
= (u
l
,j
v
j
g
js
g
kl
u
s
,k
v
j
)g
l
(5.80)
This equation gives the cross products in terms of contravariant components. Due to the
complexity of this expression, we dont use (5.8) as the form of
3
, rather, use (5.23) in
which the cross products are absorbed in the advection term.
Calculation of g
ij
,
g
0
, C
k
ij
in 2-D curvilinear coordinate systems:
g
ik
=
y
j
y
j
x
i
x
k
(5.81)
g
11
= x
2
1
+ y
2
1
(5.82)
g
22
= x
2
2
+ y
2
2
(5.83)
g
12
= g
21
= x
1
x
2
+ y
1
y
2
(5.84)
g
0
= J
2
= g
11
g
22
g
12
g
12
(5.85)
J = x
1
y
2
x
2
y
1
=
g
0
(5.86)
g
11
=
g
22
g
0
(5.87)
g
22
=
g
11
g
0
(5.88)
g
12
=
g
12
g
0
= g
21
(5.89)
C
1
11
=
1
2
g
11
g
11
1
+ g
12
g
12
1
2
g
12
g
11
2
(5.90)
C
2
11
=
1
2
g
12
g
11
1
+ g
22
g
12
1
2
g
22
g
11
2
(5.91)
C
2
22
= g
12
g
12
1
2
g
12
g
22
1
+
1
2
g
22
g
22
2
(5.92)
C
1
22
= g
11
g
12
1
2
g
11
g
22
1
+
1
2
g
22
g
22
2
(5.93)
C
2
12
= C
2
21
=
1
2
g
12
g
11
2
+
1
2
g
22
g
22
1
(5.94)
5.4. CURVILINEAR REPRESENTATIONS OF COM AND EOM 49
C
1
12
= C
2
21
=
1
2
g
11
g
11
2
+
1
2
g
12
g
22
1
(5.95)
Relationship between Cartesian velocity (u
cart
, v
cart
) and Contravariant velocity (u
1
, u
2
) =
(u, v):
u
cart
=
Dx
Dt
= u
1
x
1
+ u
2
x
2
= ux
1
+ vx
2
(5.96)
v
cart
=
Dy
Dt
= u
1
y
1
+ u
2
y
2
= uy
1
+ vy
2
(5.97)
where
x
t
= 0 and
y
t
= 0 are utilized for non-time-varying curvilinear coordinate system
(
1
,
2
)
Vice versa, we have:
u = u
1
=
y
2
u
cart
x
2
v
cart
g
0
(5.98)
v = u
2
=
x
1
v
cart
y
1
u
cart
g
0
(5.99)
5.4 Curvilinear Representations of COM and EOM
We chose to use contravariant velocity components u = ( u
1
, u
2
).
when we substitute (5.63) into COM
b()
t
= M+ f
s
, (5.100)
it becomes
b()
t
=
1
g
0
x
k
(
g
0
M
k
) + f
s
= E (5.101)
where (x
1
, x
2
) = (
1
,
2
) is curvilinear coordinate. And M
k
is worked out by considering
(5.62) and (5.25):
M
k
=
1
u
k
+ { (Ah
h +
2
)[DHU]
!k
+ (
Bh
2
2
Ah
2
(h + )
2
6
+
h(h + )
2
)[DU]
!k
}
(5.102)
where
DHU = 2F
23
= G
1
g
0
x
l
(
g
0
h u
l
) (5.103)
DU = 2F
22
= G
1
g
0
x
l
(
g
0
u
l
) (5.104)
k = 1, 2, and G =
1
1+|h|
2
can be neglected for second order approximation. = 0 repre-
sents weakly nonlinear approximation and = 1 represents fully nonlinear approximation.
Calculation of DHU and DU
DHU = G
1
g
0
[
g
0
h u
1
+

g
0
h v
2
] (5.105)
DU = G
1
g
0
[
g
0
u
1
+

g
0
v
2
] (5.106)
EOM:
U
t
= g ( u ) u + (
1
+
2
+
3
)
+
b
+
br
+
sg
+
sp
gp
s
(5.107)
1) U:
From (5.5),
U = u + [(A1)h2F
23
+ (B 2A+ 1)h
2
F
22
] (5.108)
then
U
k
= u
k
+ (A1)h[G
1
g
0
x
l
(
g
0
h u
l
)]
!k
+
B 2A + 1
2
h
2
[G
1
g
0
x
l
(
g
0
u
l
)]
!k
(5.109)
The rst component(k=1):
U
1
= U =

U F
1
( v) F
2
( u, v) (5.110)
where
U = u + (A 1)hg
11
[G
1
g
0
1
(
g
0
h u)]
1
+
B 2A+ 1
2
h
2
g
11
[G
1
g
0
1
(
g
0
u)]
1
(5.111)
F
1
( v) = + (A1)hg
11
[G
1
g
0
2
(
g
0
h v)]
1
+
B 2A+ 1
2
h
2
g
11
[G
1
g
0
2
(
g
0
v)]
1
(5.112)
F
2
( u, v) = + (A 1)hg
21
{
[G
1
g
0
1
(
g
0
h u)]
2
+
[G
1
g
0
2
(
g
0
h v)]
2
}
+
B 2A+ 1
2
h
2
g
21
{
[G
1
g
0
1
(
g
0
u)]
2
+
[G
1
g
0
2
(
g
0
v)]
2
}
(5.113)
The second component(k=2):
U
2
= V =

V G
1
( u) G
2
( u, v) (5.114)
where
V = v + (A 1)hg
22
[G
1
g
0
2
(
g
0
h v)]
2
+
B 2A+ 1
2
h
2
g
22
[G
1
g
0
2
(
g
0
v)]
2
(5.115)
G
1
( u) = + (A1)hg
22
[G
1
g
0
1
(
g
0
h u)]
2
+
B 2A+ 1
2
h
2
g
22
[G
1
g
0
1
(
g
0
u)]
2
(5.116)
G
2
( u, v) = + (A1)hg
12
{
[G
1
g
0
1
(
g
0
h u)]
1
+
[G
1
g
0
2
(
g
0
h v)]
1
}
+
B 2A+ 1
2
h
2
g
21
{
[G
1
g
0
1
(
g
0
u)]
1
+
[G
1
g
0
2
(
g
0
v)]
1
}
(5.117)
2) pressure and rst order nonlinear termg ( u ) u
g ( u ) u = g
!k
u
l
u
k
,l
=
_
F
0
G
0
_
(5.118)
F
0
= g
!1
u
1
u
1
,1
u
2
u
1
,2
= g[g
11

1
+ g
21

2
]
u[
u
1
+ C
1
11
u + C
1
21
v]
v[
u
2
+ C
1
12
u + C
1
22
v]
(5.119)
G
0
= g
!2
u
1
u
2
,1
u
2
u
2
,2
= g[g
12

1
+ g
22

2
]
u[
v
1
+ C
2
11
u + C
2
21
v]
v[
v
2
+ C
2
12
u + C
2
22
v]
(5.120)
3)
1
:
1
= [2F
23t
+
2
F
22t
]
= [DHUT+
1
2
2
DUT]
!k
(5.121)
where
DHUT = G
1
g
0
x
i
(
g
0
h u
i
t
) (5.122)
DUT = G
1
g
0
x
i
(
g
0
u
i
t
) (5.123)
1
1
= F
3
+ F
4
(5.124)
where
F
3
= g
11
[DHUT+
1
2
2
DUT]
1
(5.125)
F
4
= g
21
[DHUT+
1
2
2
DUT]
2
(5.126)
2
1
= G
3
+ G
4
(5.127)
where
G
3
= g
22
[DHUT+
1
2
2
DUT]
2
(5.128)
G
4
= g
12
[DHUT+
1
2
2
DUT]
1
(5.129)
Calculation of DHUT and DUT:
DHUT = G
1
g
0
[
g
0
h u
t
1
+

g
0
h v
t
2
] (5.130)
DUT = G
1
g
0
[
g
0
u
t
1
+

g
0
v
t
2
] (5.131)
4)
2
:
2
= ( u ) u
1c
( u
1c
) u
{
1
2
(2F
23
+ 2F
22
)
2
+ (z
c
)( u )2F
23
+
z
2
c

2
2
( u )2F
22
}
(5.133)
= u
l
u
k
1c,l
u
l
1c
u
k
,l
{
1
2
[DHU+ DU]
2
+ (z
c
) u
l

x
l
(DHU)
+
z
2
c

2
2
u
l

x
l
(DU)}
!k
(5.134)
1
2
= F
5
+ F
6
(5.135)
where
F
5
= u
1
u
1
1c,1
u
1
1c
u
1
,1
g
11
{
1
2
[DHU+ DU]
2
+ (z
c
) u
l
[

x
l
DHU+
z
c
+
2
x
l
DU]}
1
(5.136)
F
6
= u
2
u
1
1c,2
u
2
1c
u
1
,2
g
21
{
1
2
[DHU+ DU]
2
+ (z
c
) u
l
[

x
l
DHU+
z
c
+
2
x
l
DU]}
2
(5.137)
where u
i
,j
, u
i
1c,j
are dened in(5.66).
2
2
= G
5
+ G
6
(5.138)
where
G
5
= u
2
u
2
1c,2
u
2
1c
u
2
,2
g
22
{
1
2
[DHU+ DU]
2
+ (z
c
) u
l
[

x
l
DHU+
z
c
+
2
x
l
DU]}
2
(5.139)
G
6
= u
1
u
2
1c,1
u
1
1c
u
2
,1
g
12
{
1
2
[DHU+ DU]
2
+ (z
c
) u
l
[

x
l
DHU+
z
c
+
2
x
l
DU]}
1
(5.140)
5)
3
:
3
= z
c
u(2F
23
+ 2z
c
F
22
)
+ z
c
u (2F
23
+ 2z
c
F
22
)
=
z
c
x
j
g
j
u
i
g
i
[(DHU)
!k
+ z
c
(DU)
!k
]
+ z
!k
c
u
i
g
i
[
(DHU)
x
j
+ z
c
(DU)
x
j
]g
j
=
z
c
x
j
j
i
u
i
[(DHU)
!k
+ z
c
(DU)
!k
]
+ z
!k
c
u
i
[(DHU)
x
j + z
c
(DU)
x
j ]
j
i
=
z
c
x
j
u
j
[(DHU)
!k
+ z
c
(DU)
!k
]
+ z
!k
c
u
j
[(DHU)
x
j + z
c
(DU)
x
j ]
(5.141)
1
3
= F
7
+ F
8
(5.142)
where
F
7
= (
z
c
1
u +
z
c
2
v)[g
11
(DHU)
1
+ g
21
(DHU)
2
+ z
c
(g
11
(DU)
1
+ g
21
(DU)
2
)]
(5.143)
F
8
= + (g
11
z
c
1
+ g
21
z
c
2
)[ u
(DHU)
1
+ v
(DHU)
2
+ z
c
( u
(DU)
1
+ v
(DU)
2
)]
(5.144)
2
3
= G
7
+ G
8
(5.145)
where
G
7
= (
z
c
1
u +
z
c
2
v)[g
12
(DHU)
1
+ g
22
(DHU)
2
+ z
c
(g
12
(DU)
1
+ g
22
(DU)
2
)]
(5.146)
G
8
= + (g
12
z
c
1
+ g
22
z
c
2
)[ u
(DHU)
1
+ v
(DHU)
2
+ z
c
( u
(DU)
1
+ v
(DU)
2
)]
(5.147)
6)
b
:
b
=
f
b
h +
u| u|
=
f
b
h +
u
k
( u u)
1/2
=
f
b
h +
u
k
( u
m
g
m
u
l
g
l
)
1/2
=
f
b
h +
u
k
( u
l
u
l
)
1/2
=
f
b
h +
u
k
( u
l
g
lm
u
m
)
1/2
=
f
b
h +
u
k
[( u, v)
_
g
11
g
12
g
21
g
22
__
u
v
_
]
1/2
(5.148)
7)
br
:
br
=
1
H
[ (
T)] (5.149)
T =
1
2
((H u) +(H u)
T
) (5.150)
Since
(H u) = (H u
i
)
,j
g
i
g
j
= g
jk
(H u
i
)
,j
g
i
g
k
(exchange j, k )
= g
kj
(H u
i
)
,k
g
i
g
j
,then exchange i, j in the upper equation except the basis g
i
g
j
part, to get:
((H u))
T
= g
ki
(H u
j
)
,k
g
i
g
j
. (5.151)
So,
T = T
ij
g
i
g
j
=
1
2
[g
kj
(H u
i
)
,k
+ g
ki
(H u
j
)
,k
]g
i
g
j
(5.152)
i.e.
T
ij
=
1
2
[g
kj
(H u
i
)
,k
+ g
ki
(H u
j
)
,k
] (5.153)
Thus, according to (5.76) we have:
br
=
1
H
(
1
g
0
g
0
T
kl
x
l
+ C
k
ji
T
ji
)g
k
=
_
F
br
G
br
_
(5.154)
F
br
=
1
br
=
1
H
[
1
g
0
g
0
T
11
1
+
1
g
0
g
0
T
12
2
+ (C
1
11
T
11
+ C
1
12
T
12
+ C
1
21
T
21
+ C
1
22
T
22
)]
(5.155)
G
br
=
2
br
=
1
H
[
1
g
0
g
0
T
21
1
+
1
g
0
g
0
T
22
2
+ (C
2
11
T
11
+ C
2
12
T
12
+ C
2
21
T
21
+ C
2
22
T
22
)]
(5.156)
8)
sg
:
Since
sg
has the same structure as
br
, it is easy to show that:
sg
=
1
H
(
1
g
0
g
0
sg
T
kl
x
l
+ C
k
ji
sg
T
ji
)g
k
=
_
F
sg
G
sg
_
(5.157)
F
sg
=
1
sg
=
1
H
[
1
g
0
g
0
sg
T
11
1
+
1
g
0
g
0
sg
T
12
2
+
sg
(C
1
11
T
11
+ C
1
12
T
12
+ C
1
21
T
21
+ C
1
22
T
22
)]
(5.158)
G
sg
=
2
sg
=
1
H
[
1
g
0
g
0
sg
T
21
1
+
1
g
0
g
0
sg
T
22
2
+
sg
(C
2
11
T
11
+ C
2
12
T
12
+ C
2
21
T
21
+ C
2
22
T
22
)]
(5.159)
where
sg
= C
m
g
0
d
1
d
2
(
D :

D)
1/2
= C
m
g
0
d
1
d
2
(D
ij
D
ij
)
1/2
(5.160)
where
D =
1
2
[U+ (U)
T
] = D
ij
g
i
g
j
= D
ij
g
i
g
j
(5.161)
D
ij
and D
ij
are the contravariant components and covariant components of

Drespectively.
Since
(U) = (U
i
)
,j
g
i
g
j
= g
jk
(U
i
)
,j
g
i
g
k
(exchange j, k )
= g
kj
(U
i
)
,k
g
i
g
j
, then exchange i, j in the upper equation except the basis g
i
g
j
to get:
((U))
T
= g
ki
(U
j
)
,k
g
i
g
j
. (5.162)
So
D
ij
=
1
2
[g
kj
(U
i
)
,k
+ g
ki
(U
j
)
,k
] (5.163)
Similarly, since
(U) = (U
i
)
,j
g
i
g
j
(g
i
= g
ik
g
k
)
= g
ik
(U
i
)
,j
g
k
g
j
(exchange i, k )
= g
ki
(U
k
)
,j
g
i
g
j
,then exchange i, j in the upper equation to get:
((U))
T
= g
kj
(U
k
)
,i
g
i
g
j
. (5.164)
So
D
ij
=
1
2
[g
ki
(U
k
)
,j
+ g
kj
(U
k
)
,i
] (5.165)
Another way to calculate D
ij
is:
D = D
ij
g
i
g
j
= D
ij
g
il
g
l
g
jm
g
m
(exchange i with l and j with m )
= g
li
g
mj
D
lm
g
i
g
j
= D
ij
g
i
g
j
thus,
D
ij
= g
li
g
mj
D
lm
(5.166)
i.e., we can use the upper transform to get D
ij
once we calculated D
lm
.
Plug D
ij
and D
ij
into (5.160), then
sg
= C
m
g
0
d
1
d
2
(D
11
D
11
+ D
12
D
12
+ D
21
D
21
+ D
22
D
22
)
1/2
(5.167)
9)
sp
:
sp
=
1
u +
2
T
sp
+
3
_
g/h(e
1
, e
2
) (5.168)
where
T
sp
= T
ij
sp
g
i
g
k
(5.169)
and similar to(5.153)
T
ij
sp
=
1
2
[g
kj
u
i
,k
+ g
ki
u
j
,k
] (5.170)
Then
sp
=
1
u
k
g
k
+
2
(
1
g
0
g
0
T
kl
sp
x
l
+ C
k
ji
T
j
sp
i)g
k
+
3
_
g/he
k
=
_
F
sp
G
sp
_
(5.171)
F
sp
=
1
sp
=
1
u
+
2
[
1
g
0
g
0
T
11
sp
1
+
1
g
0
g
0
T
12
sp
2
+ (C
1
11
T
11
sp
+ C
1
12
T
12
sp
+ C
1
21
T
21
sp
+ C
1
22
T
22
sp
)]
+
3
_
g/h
(5.172)
G
sp
=
2
sp
=
1
v
+
2
[
1
g
0
g
0
T
21
sp
1
+
1
g
0
g
0
T
22
sp
2
+ (C
2
11
T
11
sp
+ C
2
12
T
12
sp
+ C
2
21
T
21
sp
+ C
2
22
T
22
sp
)]
+
3
_
g/h
(5.173)
Note that

T,

D,

T
sp
are similar in expression, so they can be calculated in a single
procedure to save coding cost.
10)(p
s
):
(p
s
) = (p
s
)
!k
= g
jk
p
s
x
j
g
k
=
_
F
ps
G
ps
_
(5.174)
where
F
ps
= g
11
p
s
1
+ g
21
p
s
2
(5.175)
G
ps
= g
12
p
s
1
+ g
22
p
s
2
(5.176)
Figure 5.3: Shoreline boundary condition
5.5 Curvilinear Representation of Shoreline Bound-
ary Condition
As shown in gure 5.3 , at the shoreline, we require the cross boundary volume ux to
be zero.
Let Mand n denote the volume ux and normal direction of the boundary respectively.
Then we impose that:
M n = 0, on (5.177)
where
_
M = M
i
g
i
n = n
j
g
j
(5.178)
5.5. CURVILINEAR REPRESENTATION OF SHORELINE BOUNDARYCONDITION61
So
M n = M
i
g
i
n
j
g
j
= M
i
n
j
j
i
= M
i
n
i
= 0 (5.179)
i.e.
M
1
n
1
+ M
2
n
2
= 0 (5.180)
If n = n
1
g
1
, i.e. n
2
= 0 or say
2
is the shoreline just like in gure 5.3, then the
upper equation gives
M
1
= 0 (5.181)
Or, if n = n
2
g
2
, i.e. n
1
= 0 or say
1
is the shoreline, then
M
2
= 0 (5.182)
These two equations are very simple, thats why we choose contravariant components
in the implementation.
To guarantee(5.181)(5.182) to the second order of accuracy, we require(Wei & Kirby
1998):
_
n = 0
u n = 0
(5.183)
Accordingly, if n = n
1
g
1
, then
_
u
1
= u = 0
()
1
=
!1
= g
11
1
+ g
21
2
= 0
(5.184)
and if n = n
2
g
2
, then
_
u
2
= v = 0
()
2
=
!2
= g
12
1
+ g
22
2
= 0
(5.185)
In addition, we impose
u
T
n
= 0 (5.186)
where u
T
is the tangential velocity component. This is not required physically, but can
improve the stability of numerical simulation(Wei & Kirby 1998).
i) If n = e
1
=
g
1
g
11
then as shown in gure 5.3
u
T
= u e
2
= u
i
g
i
g
2
|g
2
|
= u
i
g
i
g
2
g
22
=
u
i
g
i2
g
22
=
ug
12
+ vg
22
g
22
(5.187)
where e
i
and e
i
are unit contravariant and covariant basis.
Then (please refer to Warsi 1999 book for denition of directional derivative in curvi-
linear coordinates)
u
T
n
= n u
T
=
g
1
g
11
g
jk
u
T
x
j
g
k
=
1
g
11
g
j1
u
T
x
j
=
1
g
11
( u
T
)
!1
= 0
i.e.
( u
T
)
!1
= 0 (5.188)
ii) if n = e
2
=
g
2
g
22
then as shown in gure 5.3
u
T
= u e
1
= u
i
g
i
g
1
|g
1
|
= u
i
g
i
g
1
g
11
=
u
i
g
i1
g
11
=
ug
11
+ vg
21
g
11
(5.189)
Then
u
T
n
= n u
T
=
g
2
g
22
g
jk
u
T
x
j
g
k
=
1
g
22
g
j2
u
T
x
j
=
1
g
22
( u
T
)
!2
= 0
i.e.
( u
T
)
!2
= 0 (5.190)
Note, that (5.188) and (5.190) are slightly dierent with Shi et al (2001)s implemen-
tation, where there
u
2(!1)
= v
!1
= 0 u
1(!2)
= u
!2
=
5.5. CURVILINEAR REPRESENTATION OF SHORELINE BOUNDARYCONDITION63
0(5.191)
are used instead. The upper equations assume good orthogonality and homogeneity of
the coordinate system (
1
,
2
) near the boundary, in which case g
12
= g
21
0 and

g
11
and

g
22
are nearly constants so that u
T
v when the shoreline is on
2
and u
T
u
when the shoreline is on
1
. If the mesh generator is good enough, we should use (5.191)
for they are much simpler.
Chapter 6
Numerics and Programming Details
The continuity equation(COM) (5.24) and momentum equation(EOM) (5.31) are solved
on image domain by Finite Dierence Method using 3rd order Adams-Bashforth ex-
plicit predictor and 4th order Adams-Moulton implicit corrector scheme for time integra-
tion and 4th order dierence scheme for O(1) part and 2nd order dierence scheme for
O(
2
) part for spatial discretization. Staggered grid system is employed here to improve
numerical stability. Also the boundary condition (5.177) and (5.186) are implemented
in a symmetric sense rather than o-centered dierence scheme in Funwave version 1.0.
Numerical simulation experience shows that symmetric scheme for boundary conditions
gives better numerical stability.
6.1 Grids and Basic Spatial Dierence Schemes
Figure 6.1 shows the staggered grid system. (
1
,
2
) = (, ) is used as the coordinate
curve.
1
direction velocities are dened on points(also called u points) ,
2
direction
velocities are dened on | points(also called v points), while surface elevation and depth
information is dened on points(also called z points). The corner of a grid is called
node points, coordinate information is dened on node points (also called 1 points).
They all use their own independent indexes.
Dierence scheme for derivatives:
For example
f
|
z
i.e.
1
derivative of function f at z points (here f is dened on u
points).
Second order scheme:
f
|
z
=
f
i+1
f
i
d
+ O((d)
2
) (6.1)
Forth order scheme
f
|
z
=
8(f
i+1
f
i
) 0.5(f
i+2
+ f
i+1
) + 0.5(f
i1
+ f
i
)
6d
+ O((d)
4
) (6.2)
where 0.5(f
i+2
+ f
i+1
) is an average to obtain f on i +
3
2
point (beware that f is dened
on u points) and 0.5(f
i1
+ f
i
) is an average to obtain f on i
1
2
point. When on a
left wall boundary, f
i1
doesnt exist, then it is replaced by f
i+1
for symmetric case or
replaced by f
i+1
for anti-symmetric case. The same situation happens to f
i+1
on a right
65
66 CHAPTER 6. NUMERICS AND PROGRAMMING DETAILS
Figure 6.1: Staggered grid system
6.2. FLOW CHART 67
wall boundary. For example, for
u
we should use the anti-symmetric case, since u 0

at the boundary according to (5.184), an odd function satises this condition and its
anti-symmetric. Whereas, for
v
should use the symmetric case, for

v
0 according to
(5.191),an even function satises this and its symmetric.
6.2 Flow Chart
The solving procedure is: rstly, initial conditions and coordinate information as well as
bathymetry information are read into memory. Then the predictor stage gives predicted
value of surface elevation and

U and

V for next time step. Thereafter the corrector stage
updates the predicted values. Because the corrector scheme is implicit, the corrector stage
is iterated till convergence criterion is satised. Since

U contains u in it. It is solved by a
tridiagonal matrix equation to obtain u each time when

U is predicted or corrected. Wave
height, setup/setdown, mean currents and other other kinematics are collected. Figure
6.2 gives the ow chart.
Figure 6.2: Flow chart of the program
6.2. FLOW CHART 69
Below is a text version:
call init
call get_gxx !Covariant matrices
call get_Cf !Christoffel symbols
call get_num_div_xy !Determine domain structures
call Wave_Maker_Preparation !Do some preparation for wave
!maker get_fs_ps
if(WaveTypeID.eq.3)call solitary_wave !Prepare the initial conditions
!for solitary wave
call breaking_parameter !Calculate some parameters for
!breaking simulation.
do it= itbegin,ntmax
call get_fs_ps !Source term in continuity and momentum
!equation for periodic/random waves
if(it=itbegin) call startup !Calculate E,F,Gs for the predictor
!using initial conditions
call predict_zeta !prediction for zeta
call get_A_B !Get reference level variables A,B
call get_Zc !Renew Zc if its moving with zeta
call predict_UU_tld !Predict U_tilda and V_tilda
call predict_VV_tld
call Double_sweep_UU !Solve U V
call Double_sweep_VV
do iter=1,MaxIterationNum
call slotmethod !Calculate the total volume
!of water in/out slots
call get_DHU_DU !get DHU, DU
call get_E !Calculate RHS of Continuity Eqn
call correct_zeta !correction step for zeta
call get_A_B !Get A,Bs renewed using the
!corrected water surface
call get_Zc !get Zc renewed
call get_DHUT_DUT !Calculate divergence of (h*U_t)
!and (U_t)
call get_F0~F12 !Calculate RHS of the x-momentum
!equation
call correct_UU_tld !correct UU_tilda
call Double_sweep_UU !Solve U from UU_tilda
call Sponge_Layer_UU !apply DHI sponge layer in
!x-direction (optional)
call get_DHU_DU !Renew DHU and DU
call get_DHUT_DUT !Renew DHUT and DUT
call get_G0~G12 !Calculate RHS of the
!y-momentum equation
call correct_VV_tld !Correct VV_tilda
call Double_sweep_VV !Solve V from VV_tilda
call Sponge_Layer_VV !apply DHI sponge layer in
!y-direction (optional)
call Localized filter2D() !localized filtering for swash zone
call get_error !calculate residue of 2 successive
!iteration steps
if(error < eps) goto 100 !If converged, jump out of
!iteration cycle
if(iter.eq.MaxIterationNum)call print_blow_up
!print blow-up info.
enddo
100 call Recalculate_EFG !calculate EFG use new U,V,zeta
!for next time step
call Global Filtering !Global filtering if necessary
call Waveheight_and_Setup !collect wave height and setup
!information
call get_Umean_Vmean !collect mean currents
call get_Potential_Vorticity !Calculate Potential
!Vorticity for all points
call get_CartUV_Pressure_profile !calculate kinematics of
!gaged points.
call shift_EFG !Shift E,F12,G12, Fother,Gother backward
call print_animation !save data to animation
!files: surface,velocity,
!potential vorticity
call print_TimeGauge !search time gauge points,
!output zeta,velocity, vorticity
enddo
call print_setup_waveheight !print collected
!waveheights and setup info
End
6.3. PREDICTOR AND CORRECTOR 71
6.3 Predictor and Corrector
6.3.1 Adams explicit and implicit schemes
For a simple model equation y(t)
t
= f(y, t), the Adams scheme family is listed below:
1)Adams 1st order explicit predictor and 2nd order implicit corrector
_
y
p+1
= y
p
+ hf
p
y
p+1
= y
i
+
h
2
(f
p+1
+ f
p
)
(6.3)
where h is the time step, p is index current time level, p + 1 is index for next time level,
y predicted value, and f
p+1
= y
p+1
t
2)Adams 2nd order explicit predictor and 3rd order implicit corrector
_
y
p+1
= y
p
+
h
2
(3f
p
f
p1
)
y
p+1
= y
i
+
h
12
(5f
p+1
+ 8f
p
f
p1
)
(6.4)
3)Adams 3rd order explicit predictor and 4th order implicit corrector
_
y
p+1
= y
p
+
h
12
(23f
p
16f
p1
+ 5f
p2
)
y
p+1
= y
i
+
h
24
(9f
p+1
+ 19f
p
5f
p1
+ f
p2
)
(6.5)
6.3.2 Implementation of Adams schemes
In our case, equation(5.101) and (5.107) are going to be solved. Since the 4th order implicit
corrector needs 3 previous levels of information, which is not available for the rst 2 time
steps, so in the rst step and the second step, 2nd order corrector(6.3) and 3rd corrector
(6.4) are used to start up the simulation.
1)The rst time step(1st order predictor, 2nd order corrector, p=1 level known)
Here, p = 1 level is the initial condition obtained from inputs.
Predictor(use (6.3)):
p+1
i,j
=
p
i,j
+tE
p
i,j
(6.6)
U
p+1
i,j
=

U
p
i,j
+tF
p
total
(6.7)
V
p+1
i,j
=

V
p
i,j
+tG
p
total
(6.8)
where i, j stand for spatial indexes for
1
and
2
direction respectively,t is time step and
_
F
total
= (F
12
)
t
+ F
other
G
total
= (G
12
)
t
+ G
other
(6.9)
_
F
12
= F
1
+ F
2
G
12
= G
1
+ G
2
(6.10)
_
_
F
other
= F
0
+ F
3
+ F
4
+ F
5
+ F
6
+ F
7
+ F
8
+F
b
+ F
br
+ F
sp
+ F
sg
gF
ps
G
other
= G
0
+ G
3
+ G
4
+ G
5
+ G
6
+ G
7
+ G
8
+G
b
+ G
br
+ G
sp
+ G
sg
gG
ps
(6.11)
F
1
, F
2
and G
1
, G
2
contain cross derivatives in U =

U +F
1
+F
2
and V =

V +G
1
+G
2
,
so they are moved to RHS of the equation. While (F
12
)
t
is approximated by
(F
12
)
t
=
F
p
12
F
p1
12
t
(6.12)
Since, p 1 level is not available, F
p1
is set to be same as F
p
as an initial guess and this
time derivative is nullied, so the upper predictor becomes actually(doing this doesnt
harm the solving procedure much, for the predictor is only a guess for the solution, and
itll be corrected by the corrector stage, while since it might be not quite good a guess
and the corrector may take more iteration steps to converge):
U
p+1
i,j
=

U
p
i,j
+tF
p
other
(6.13)
V
p+1
i,j
=

V
p
i,j
+tG
p
other
(6.14)
Corrector(use(6.3)):
p+1
i,j
=
p
i,j
+
t
2
[E
p+1
i,j
+ E
p
i,j
] (6.15)
U
p+1
i,j
=

U
p
i,j
+
t
2
[F
p+1
total
+ F
p
total
] (6.16)
V
p+1
i,j
=

V
p
i,j
+
t
2
[G
p+1
total
+ G
p
total
] (6.17)
where
_
F
total
= (F
12
)
t
+ F
other
G
total
= (G
12
)
t
+ G
other
(6.18)
and this time we have:
(F
p+1
12
)
t

F
p+1
12
F
p
12
t
(6.19)
is the same as
(F
p
12
)
t

F
p+1
12
F
p
12
t
(6.20)
So the upper corrector for

U and

V becomes:
U
p+1
i,j
=

U
p
i,j
+ (F
p+1
12
F
p
12
) +
t
2
[F
p+1
other
+ F
p
other
] (6.21)
V
p+1
i,j
=

V
p
i,j
+ (G
p+1
12
G
p
12
) +
t
2
[G
p+1
other
+ G
p
other
] (6.22)
2)The 2nd time step(2st order predictor, 3rd order corrector, p=2)
Predictor(use6.4)):
p+1
i,j
=
p
i,j
+
t
2
[3E
p
i,j
E
p1
i,j
] (6.23)
U
p+1
i,j
=

U
p
i,j
+
t
2
[3F
p
total
F
p1
total
] (6.24)
V
p+1
i,j
=

V
p
i,j
+
t
2
[3G
p
total
G
p1
total
] (6.25)
where
(F
p
12
)
t

F
p
12
F
p1
12
t
(6.26)
is the same as
(F
p1
12
)
t

F
p
12
F
p1
12
t
(6.27)
So the upper predictor for

U and
V becomes
U
p+1
i,j
=

U
p
i,j
+ (F
p
12
F
p1
12
)
t
2
[3F
p
other
F
p1
other
] (6.28)
V
p+1
i,j
=

V
p
i,j
+ (G
p
12
G
p1
12
)
t
2
[3G
p
other
G
p1
other
] (6.29)
p+1
i,j
=
p
i,j
+
t
12
[5E
p+1
i,j
+ 8E
p
i,j
E
p1
i,j
] (6.30)
U
p+1
i,j
=

U
p
i,j
+
t
12
[5F
p+1
total
+ 8F
p
total
F
p1
total
] (6.31)
V
p+1
i,j
=

V
p
i,j
+
t
12
[5G
p+1
total
+ 8G
p
total
G
p1
total
] (6.32)
where
(F
p+1
12
)
t

3F
p+1
12
4F
p
12
+ F
p1
12
2t
(6.33)
(F
p
12
)
t

F
p+1
12
F
p1
12
2t
(6.34)
(F
p1
12
)
t

3F
p1
12
+ 4F
p
12
F
p+1
12
2t
(6.35)
Then the upper corrector for

U and

V becomes
U
p+1
i,j
=

U
p
i,j
+ (F
p+1
12
F
p
12
) +
t
12
[5F
p+1
other
+ 8F
p
other
F
p1
other
] (6.36)
V
p+1
i,j
=

V
p
i,j
+ (G
p+1
12
G
p
12
) +
t
12
[5G
p+1
other
+ 8G
p
other
G
p1
other
] (6.37)
3)Beyond 3rd time step(3rd order predictor, 4th order corrector, p 3)
In the rest time steps we use 3rd order predictor and 4th order corrector.
Predictor(use(6.5)):
p+1
i,j
=
p
i,j
+
t
12
[23E
p
i,j
16E
p1
i,j
+ 5E
p2
i,j
] (6.38)
U
p+1
i,j
=

U
p
i,j
+
t
12
[23F
p
total
16F
p1
total
+ 5F
p2
total
] (6.39)
V
p+1
i,j
=

V
p
i,j
+
t
12
[23G
p
total
16G
p1
total
+ 5G
p2
total
] (6.40)
where
(F
p
12
)
t

3F
p
12
4F
p1
12
+ F
p2
12
2t
(6.41)
(F
p1
12
)
t

F
p
12
F
p2
12
2t
(6.42)
(F
p2
12
)
t

3F
p2
12
+ 4F
p1
12
F
p
12
2t
(6.43)
then the upper predictor for

U and

V becomes
U
p+1
i,j
=

U
p
i,j
+ (2F
p
12
3F
p1
12
+ F
p
12
) +
t
12
[23F
p
other
16F
p1
other
+ 5F
p2
other
] (6.44)
V
p+1
i,j
=

V
p
i,j
+ (2G
p
12
3G
p1
12
+ G
p
12
) +
t
12
[23G
p
other
16G
p1
other
+ 5G
p2
other
] (6.45)
p+1
i,j
=
p
i,j
+
t
24
[9E
p+1
i,j
+ 19E
p
i,j
5E
p1
i,j
+ E
p2
i,j
] (6.46)
U
p+1
i,j
=

U
p
i,j
+
t
24
[9F
p+1
total
+ 19F
p
total
5F
p1
total
+ F
p2
total
] (6.47)
V
p+1
i,j
=

V
p
i,j
+
t
24
[9G
p+1
total
+ 19G
p
total
5G
p1
total
+ G
p2
total
] (6.48)
where
(F
p+1
12
)
t

11F
p+1
12
18F
p
12
+ 9F
p1
12
2F
p2
12
6t
+ O(t
3
) (6.49)
(F
p
12
)
t

2F
p+1
12
+ 3F
p
12
6F
p1
12
+ F
p2
12
6t
+ O(t
3
) (6.50)
(F
p1
12
)
t

2F
p2
12
3F
p1
12
+ 6F
p
12
F
p+1
12
6t
+ O(t
3
) (6.51)
(F
p2
12
)
t

11F
p2
12
+ 18F
p1
12
9F
p
12
+ 2F
p+1
12
6t
+ O(t
3
) (6.52)
Then the upper corrector for

U and

V become:
U
p+1
i,j
=

U
p
i,j
+ (F
p+1
12
F
p
12
) +
t
24
[9F
p+1
other
+ 19F
p
other
5F
p1
other
+ F
p2
other
] (6.53)
V
p+1
i,j
=

V
p
i,j
+ (G
p+1
12
G
p
12
) +
t
24
[9G
p+1
other
+ 19G
p
other
5G
p1
other
+ G
p2
other
] (6.54)
6.3.3 Hot-Start problem
In the predictor stage of the rst time step (6.11), we need calculate DHUT and DUT
in F
3
, F
4
and G
3
,G
4
which are contained in F
other
and G
other
. But at that time, only one
level of u and v is known from the initial condition. So we are not able to use (5.130)
to calculate them. If the problem is a Cold-Start problem, i.e. the initial conditions are
identically zero. Then we can neglect these terms. While, if its a Hot-Start problem, we
cant neglect them. They call for special treatments. One approach is to replace the time
derivatives by spatial derivatives as follows.
From the momentum equation(5.107), we have to the O(1) order accuracy:
U
t
= [ u + O(
2
)]
t
= g + O() + O(
2
) (6.55)
so,
u
t
= g + O(
2
) (6.56)
Then,
DUT = u
t
= g + O(
2
)
= g
1
g
0
x
i
(
g
0
g
ji

x
j
+ O(
2
)
(6.57)
Similarly,
DHUT = (h u
t
)
= g (h) + O(
2
)
= g
1
g
0
x
i
(h
g
0
g
ji

x
j
+ O(
2
)
(6.58)
6.4 Obtain u from

U
In both the predictor and corrector stages, we get

U = (
U,

V ), then u is obtained by
solving a tri-diagonal matrix equation.
By denition(5.111), we have
U = u + h
2
b
1
g
2
2
g
0
[
1
g
0
(
g
0
u)
1
]
1
+ hb
2
g
2
2
g
0
[
1
g
0
(
g
0
h u)
1
]
1
(6.59)
where
b
1
=
B 2A+ 1
2
(6.60)
and
b
2
=
B 2A+ 1
2
(6.61)
(6.59) is a second order dierential equation for u, and we can solve it by a tri-diagonal
matrix system. Since A, B are related to denitions of the multiple and moving reference
level, its a function of time. So the coecients of the equation are time varying.
For a given u point i, the upper equation can be discretized as:
AA
i
u
i1
+ u
i
+ CC
i
u
i+1
= DD
i
(6.62)
where
AA
i
= (
g
0
)
i1
(h
g
22
g
2
0
)
i
[h
i
b
1
(
g
0
)
i
+ h
i1
b
2
(
g
0
)
i
+ (
1
2
h
i
b
1
+
1
2
h
i1
b
2
)(
g
0
)
1
]/BB
CC
i
= (
g
0
)
i+1
(h
g
22
g
2
0
)
i
[h
i
b
1
(
g
0
)
i
+ h
i+1
b
2
(
g
0
)
i
(
1
2
h
i
b
1
+
1
2
h
i+1
b
2
)(
g
0
)
1
]/BB
DD
i
=

U
i
(6.63)
BB = 1 2(h
2
g
22
g
0
)
i
(b
1
+ b
2
) (6.64)
If i is on a wall boundary, then i 1 in AA
i
is replaced by i + 1 when the wall is at
left; and i + 1 in CC
i
is replaced by i 1 when the wall is at right. (6.62) is a standard
tri-diagonal matrix system, can be readily solved. v can be solved in the same way.
6.5. ITERATION ERROR CONTROL AND UNDER-RELAXATION 77
6.5 Iteration Error Control and Under-relaxation
Between iteration step k and k+1 , the errors of iteration are dened as:
error
z
=
j
|
k+1
i,j

k
i,j
|
j
|
k+1
i,j
|
(6.65)
error
uv
=
j
| u
k+1
i,j
u
k
i,j
| +| v
k+1
i,j
v
k
i,j
|
j
| u
k+1
i,j
| +| v
k+1
i,j
|
(6.66)
while in the very rst few time steps, the denominator may be very small for a cold-
start problem, in that case, if the denominator is less than 1.0E 6 the upper errors are
dened as the numerator to avoid devision by a small number.
The convergence criteria is when max(error
uv
, error
z
) is less than an designated
value,then the iteration stops.
Also, an under-relaxation method is applied to get better numerical stability. It is
designed as:
( u, v, ) = ( u, v, )
k+1
+ (1 )( u, v, )
k
(6.67)
where is relaxation parameter chosen to be between 0.5 1.0 .
6.6 Calculation of Kinematics
In light of the kinematics formulas (3.73) (3.81), they are calculated in the code.
Horizontal velocity:
From (3.73)
u(
1
,
2
, z, t) = u + (Ah (h + z)) (h u)
+ (
B 2A
2
h
2
(h + z)
2
2
+ h(h + z)) u
= u + (Ah (h + z))(DHU)
!i
+ (
B 2A
2
h
2
(h + z)
2
2
+ h(h + z))(DU)
!i
= (u, v)
(6.68)
Here u, v are contravariant components in the image domain, for convenience of engineer-
ing usage, they are converted to Cartesian components by (5.96) and (5.97).
Vertical velocity:
From(3.74),we can obtain
w(x, y, z, t) = (DHU+ zDU) (6.69)
and its a linear function of z as a second order model.
Pressure:
From(3.75), we can obtain:
p(x, y, z, t) = p
a
+ g( z)
{( z)DHUT+ [
((h + )
2
(h + z)
2
)
2
h( z)]DUT
+ u [( z)DHU
+ (
((h + )
2
(h + z)
2
)
2
h( z))DU]}
(6.70)
Mean Current:
Mean current is calculated by
(U, V ) = (
M
1
h +
,
M
2
h +
) (6.71)
and then converted to Cartesian coordinate by (5.96) and (5.97).
Potential Vorticity:
Potential Vorticity is calculated by(3.78):
q(x, y, t) =
1
g
0
[
(g
21
(
M
1
h+
) + g
22
(
M
2
h+
)
(g
11
(
M
1
h+
) + g
12
(
M
2
h+
)
]/(h + )
(6.72)
Appendix A
Wave Maker Theory
The wave maker mechanism here is basically adding a periodic forcing term to the equa-
tion. FUNWAVE 1.0 uses a two-way wave maker where a forcing term symmetric about
the central line of source region is added to the continuity equation. Theory has been
developed by Wei et al(1999), basically using Fourier Transform method to solve the
linearized equation to obtain the transfer function between the desired wave height and
source strength. Chawla & Kirby (2000) developed a one-way wave maker by further
adding a forcing term anti-symmetric about the central line of source region, and Doppler
eects of background current is also taken into account. Here the derivation of Chawla &
Kirby (2000) is repeated for the linearized version of Boussinesq Equation, but no Doppler
eect is considered for simplicity.
The 1D linearized version of Boussinesq Equation(5.1)(5.4) with constant depth h is:
COM:
t
+ h u +
2
1
h
3
2
( u) = 0 (A.1)
EOM:
u
t
+ +
2
h
2
( u
t
) = 0 (A.2)
where =
B1
2
,
1
= +1/3 = B/21/6. Since h is constant and equation is linearized,
here B is also a constant, means that the moving part in B has been taken out, hence
and
1
are constant too. z
c
in (4.71) is also set to be constant for linea rization and nally
disappears here. The upper two equations are of the same form of Chawla & Kirby(2000)
equation (4a) and (4b), except that the current U there is now set to be zero and the
denition of is dierent. So all the derivations in Chawla & Kirby (2000) hold at here.
When introducing source functions in both continuity and momentum equations, we
get(in dimensional form):
COM:
t
+ h u +
1
h
3
2
( u) = f
s
(x, y, t) (A.3)
EOM:
u
t
+ g + h
2
( u
t
) = gp
s
(x, y, t) (A.4)
where f
s
and p
s
can be rewritten as follows by introducing Fourier Transform in time and
spanwise direction:
f
s
(x, y, t) =
1
4
2
_

f
s
(x, , )e
i(yt)
dd (A.5)
79
80 APPENDIX A. WAVE MAKER THEORY
p
s
(x, y, t) =
1
4
2
_

p
s
(x, , )e
i(yt)
dd (A.6)
where

f
s
and p
s
are transfer function of f
s
and p
s
respectively. By following Chawla &
Kirby(2000) derivations, we obtain:
f
s
= D
1
e
sx
2
(A.7)
p
s
= D
2
xe
sx
2
(A.8)
where
D
1
=
i
0
e
(
l
2
1
4s
)
a
1
_
s
(2)(1 h
2
k
2
)
(A.9)
and
D
2
=
2
s
D
1
l
1
(A.10)
s
=
80
2
r
L
2
(A.11)
where
0
is the desired wave amplitude , is the angular frequency of a single wave
component, L is typical wave length,
r
is a parameter to control the source region width
W:
W =
r
L
2
(A.12)
.
a
1
is given as
a
1
=
i
A
s
(l
1
l
2
)(l
1
+ l
2
)2l
1
(A.13)
where
l
1
= (
C
s
_
C
2
s
4A
s
E
s
2A
s
)
1/2
(A.14)
l
2
= (
C
s
+
_
C
2
s
4A
s
E
s
2A
s
)
1/2
(A.15)
and l
2
1
+
2
= k
2
, here l
1
= k cos and = k sin , where is the wave direction and k is
the wavenumber given by dispersion relationship:
2
= ghk
2
1
1
k
2
h
2
1 k
2
h
2
(A.16)
A
s
, C
s
, E
s
are given as:
A
s
=
1
gh
3
(A.17)
81
C
s
= gh +
2
h
2
2
1
2
gh
3
(A.18)
E
s
=
2
[1 (h)
2
] gh
2
[1
1
(h)
2
] (A.19)
By using the dispersion relation, a
1
can be simplied to:
a
1
=
ik
2(
2
1
gh
3
k
4
) cos
(A.20)
then D
1
can be written as:
D
1
(
0
, , ) =

0
cos e
(
l
2
1
4s
)
1
gh
3
k
4
)
k
_
s
(1 h
2
k
2
)
(A.21)
Then the source function f
s
(x, y, t) is calculated by Discrete Fourier Transform for
directional waves:
f
s
(x, y, t) = Real{
1
4
2
_

f
s
(x, , )e
i(yt)
dd}
=
M
i=1
N
j=1
f
s
(x,
j
,
i
,
0ij
)[e
i(
j
y
i
t+
0
)
+ c.c.]
1
2
=
M
i=1
N
j=1
f
s
(x,
j
,
i
,
0ij
) cos(
j
y
i
t +
0
)
(A.22)
where
0
is a random phase given from 0 to 2,
0ij
is the wave amplitude for the ith
frequency component and the jth directional component given by selected power density
spectrum:
0ij
=
0
(
i
,
j
)
=
_
2S(
i
)G(
j
)d
i
d
j
=
_
2S(
i
)d
i
( if only frequency spectrum exists)
=
_
2G(
j
)d
j
( if only directional spectrum exists)
(A.23)
where S(
i
) , G(
j
) are power density spectrum.
p
s
(x, y, t) is calculated in the same way:
p
s
(x, y, t) =
M
i=1
N
j=1
p
s
(x,
j
,
i
,
0ij
) cos(
j
y
i
t +
0
) (A.24)
82 APPENDIX A. WAVE MAKER THEORY
Appendix B
Mesh Generator by Fengyan Shi
The program needs preprocessor to prepare bathymetry and grid type data les. This
can be done using CoastGrid program developed by Dr. Fengyan Shi in CACR. For de-
tails please go to http://coastal.udel.edu/ fyshi/coastgrid/coastgrid.html . The CoastGrid
program enables us to generate generalized meshes tted with boundary and output grid
points. For the grid type data, Funwave2D cant tolerate structures/islands and water
domains that are about one grid wide in any direction, otherwise, ambiguity of gridtype
denition will occur. If this happens in your mesh, you need to rene the mesh locally to
avoid it.
A Fortran program gridtype.f is also included to generate grid type les using bathymetry
data as input.
83
84 APPENDIX B. MESH GENERATOR BY FENGYAN SHI
Bibliography
[1] Berkho, J. C. W., Booy, N. and Radder, A. C.,, Verication of numerical wave
propagation models for simple harmonic linear water waves, Coastal Engrg, 6, pp
255-279, 1982
[2] Chawla, A. and Kirby, J. T., A source function method for generation of waves on
currents in Boussinesq models, Applied Ocean Research, V22, 75-83, 2000
[3] Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A., Kennedy, A. B. and Chawla, A., Boussinesq
modeling of wave transformation, breaking and runup. II: Two horizontal dimensions,
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 126, 48-56, 2000.
[4] Gobbi, M. F., Kirby, J. T. and Wei, G., A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface
waves. II. Extension to O(kh
4
), Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 405, 181-210, 2000.
[5] Gobbi, M. F. and Kirby, J. T., Wave evolution over submerged sills: Tests of a high-
order Boussinesq model, Coastal Engineering, 37, 57-96, 1999, and erratum, 40, 277,
2000.
[6] Kennedy, A. B, Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., and Dalrymple, R. A., Boussinesq modeling of
wave transformation, breaking and runup. I: One dimension, Journal of Waterway,
Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 126, 39-47, 2000.
[7] Kennedy, A. B., Kirby, J. T., Chen, Q. and Dalrymple, R. A., Boussinesq-type equa-
tions with improved nonlinear behaviour, Wave Motion, 33, 225-243, 2001.
[8] Kirby, J. T., Boussinesq models and applications to nearshore wave propagation,
surfzone processes and wave-induced currents, Advances in Coastal Engineering, V.
C. Lakhan(ed), Elsevier, 2003
[9] Mase, H. and Kirby, J. T., Modied frequency domain KdV equation for random
wave shoaling, Proc. 23d Intl. Conf. Coastal Engrng, Venice, 474-487, October 1992.
[10] Nwogu, O., An alternative form of the Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave prop-
agation, J. Waterway, Port, Coast., Ocean Engrg, 119(6), 618-638, 1993
[11] Shi, F., Dalrymple, R. A., Kirby, J. T., Chen, Q. and Kennedy, A., A fully nonlinear
Boussinesq model in generalized curvilinear coordinates, Coastal Engineering, 42,
337-358, 2001.
[12] Smagorinsky, J.S., 1963, General circulation experiments with the primitive equa-
tions, Mon. Weather Rev. V93, pp99- .
85
86 BIBLIOGRAPHY
[13] Tao, J., Computation of wave run-up and wave breaking Internal report, Danish
Hydraulic Institute, 1983
[14] Tao, J., Numerical modeling of wave runup and breaking on the beach Acta
Oceanologica Sinica, 6(5), pp692-700, in Chinese, 1984.
[15] Warsi, Z.U.A. Fluid Dynamics. Theoretical and Computational Approaches.2. Boca
Raton CRC 1999
[16] Watanabe, A., Maruyama, K., Numerical modeling of nearshore wave eld under
combined refraction, diraction and breaking, Coastal Engineering in Japan, V29,
1986
[17] Wei, G., Kirby, J. T., Grilli, S. T. and Subramanya, R., A fully nonlinear Boussi-
nesq model for surface waves. I. Highly nonlinear, unsteady waves, Journal of Fluid
Mechanics, 294, 71-92, 1995.
[18] Wei, G., Kirby, J. T. and Sinha, A., Generation of waves in Boussinesq models using
a source function method, Coastal Engineering, 36, 271-299, 1999.
[19] Wei,G., Kirby, J.T., Simulation of water waves by Boussinesq models, Research Re-
port No. CACR-98-02, Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware,
Newark, Delaware.

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FUNWAVE 2.

into (3.24), M becomes:

. Plug (3.29) in to the upper equation,

= 0. And take horizontal gradient to the upper

T represent scalar, vector, and second order tensor respectively, then

we should use the anti-symmetric case, since u 0

should use the symmetric case, for

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