INTRODUCTION

Anybody can be a dressmaker! Anybody can cut and sew haute couture! Be inspired!
Introducing a step-by-step dressmaking tutorial to learn the fundamental
knowledge of dressmaking and basic patternmaking, sewing and the ability to run
and operate a sewing machine.
In this first segment of dressmaking tutorials, you will learn some very important
safety tips in the workroom, while showing you how to operate the equipment
properly and safely.
(How to operate sewing machine properly)
Second part of this introduction to dressmaking, you will see the basic toolkit
required to start in dressmaking. You'll learn how to use each of your supplies,
from reading the measuring tape to accurately take full body measurements.









The History of Sewing Machines

Hand sewing is an art form that is over 20,000 years old. The first sewing needles
were made of bones or animal horns and the first thread was made of animal sinew.
Iron needles were invented in the 14th century. The first eyed needles appeared in
the 15th century.
The English inventor and cabinet maker, Thomas Saint was issued the first patent
for a complete machine for sewing in 1790. It is not known if Saint actually built a
working prototype of his invention. The patent describes an awl that punched a
hole in leather and passed a needle through the hole. A later reproduction of
Saint's invention based on his patent drawings did not work.
In 1810, German, Balthasar Krems invented an automatic machine for sewing caps.
Krems did not patent his invention and it never functioned well.
Austrian tailor, Josef Madersperger made several attempts at inventing a machine
for sewing and was issued a patent in 1814. All of his attempts were considered
unsuccessful.
In 1804, a French patent was granted to Thomas Stone and James Henderson for
"a machine that emulated hand sewing." That same year a patent was granted to
Scott John Duncan for an "embroidery machine with multiple needles." Both
inventions failed and were soon forgotten by the public.
In 1818, the first American sewing machine was invented by John Adams Doge and
John Knowles. Their machine failed to sew any useful amount of fabric before
malfunctioning.





Fabrics from Natural Fibers
Cotton Fabric
The fabric which is believed to be most soothing and safe is called as cotton
fabric. Immense use of cotton fabric for infant s dresses or beddings is a live
testimony of its softness and skin-friendliness. Cotton fabric has a distinctive
feature that it adjusts easily with climatic requirements that is why it is called all-
season fabric. In summer season cotton fabric keeps the body cool and absorbs the
sweat easily whereas they give a warm feel if worn in winder season.
Silk Fabric
Silk counts to the strongest natural fabric in the world. Known for its softness,
luster, beauty and luxurious look, silk fabric is one of the higher grade fabric
providing comfort to the wearer in all types of weather. Keeping the body cool in
summer and warm in winter, silk was discovered during 2640 B.C. in china. Today
there are different variety of silk available in the market like Chiffon, Georgette,
Organza, Crepe de Chine, Duponi, Noil, Pongee, Shantung, Tussar, etc. Because of
its sheer variety of designs, weaving and quality, Indian silk textile are popular
worldwide.
Linen Fabric
Linen is called as king of natural fabric. Linen is extensively used for apparel
making and home furnishing as well. Linen, being a natural fiber is considered to be
safe for all types of skin. Linen fabric is also suggested for sensitive skin as its
natural properties makes it resistant for allergies.
Linen fabric do not cause problems like irritation, allergic reaction etc. The natural
fiber of linen makes it strong and durable. Linen is an easy maintainable fabric. No
special treatments are required for linen; it can be simply washed by hands.
Although linen is used for all kinds of clothing, yet mostly used for home furnishing
items like table cloth, bedspreads, curtains etc
Wool Fabric
Soft, strong and very durable wool fabric provide warmth and attractive
appearance. It is the fabric which keeps the wearer dry while sweating and cool
when it is hot. Wicking away perspiration from the body, wool fabric does not
wrinkle easily and is resistant to dirt wear and tear. It is also having the quality of
not burning when put over the flame, it only smolder. Felt made of wool fabric is
used as covers for piano hammers. It is also used in absorbing odors and noise in
machinery and stereo speakers. Wool fabric is being used for clothing for over
twelve thousand years does not only come from sheep only, whereas widely used
kashmiri sweaters are made from goats.
Leather Fabric
Comfortable in both hot and cold condition, leather fabric is not affected by
surrounding temperature. Adding a classic luxury, pleasant to touch and
comfortable, leather fabric is soft , elastic and firm. Leather fabric is blessed
with the quality of absorbing water vapor without loosing dryness and retaining to
the original shape when stretched.
Ramie Fabric
Ramie fabric having characteristics like moisture absorption, air permeability are
valued as a summer fabric which are not harmed by mild acid and are resistant to
alkali.
Hemp Fabric
Highly versatile hemp fabric is used in countless number of products like shoes,
furniture, apparel, accessories and home furnishing. Hemp fabric is a fabric which
is commonly known for its warmth, softness and durability. Providing beautiful
lusture, hemp fabric is best for making apparel which can withstand harsh
conditions and last longer. UV protected apparel fabric have an insulative quality
that allows clothing to be cool in summer.
Having characteristics like durability, absorption, insulation, apparel fabric
withstand water better then any other textile product. It is obtained from stem
of the plant, the finest hemp fabric is produced in Italy. Acting as a great choice
for comfortable work clothes, home decoration, hemp fabric is also used in the
manufacturing of clothing, curtains, draperies, upholstery, bedspreads, table
linens, sheets, dish towels, canvas, etc.
Jute Fabric
Being among the strong and durable fabric, jute fabric is ideally being used as bags
or sacks for packing since aging. The jute fabric is much soughed item for
fashionable clothes, home furnishing and fashion accessories. Bangladesh counts to
the largest cultivator of jute fabric with India as the second largest jute goods
manufacturer.
The most important use of the jute fabric is in the manufacturing of carpets,
linoleum, cordage and twines. It is sometimes used as webbing to cover inner
springs of the auto seats. Sometimes used as fashion accessory used for fashion
garments, tapestries, soft luggage, etc.















PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE









TOOLS IN SEWING MACHINE


Tape measure
used to take body measurements

French curve
used for drawing curces areas when making alternating patterns

pins
useed for laying out pattern pieces, holding two layers of fabric together while stitching and
making hemlines

pin cushions
holds pins and needles that are inserted into the padded area

Dressmaker's Bent-Handle Shears
used for cutting large pieces of fabric

Embroidery scissors
used for detail work such as cutting threads, ripping stitches, and opening button

seam ripper
used for ripping out stitching

thimble
used to push needle through fabric and protect finger while sewing by hand

needle threader
used to facilitate the process of threading an needle

INVENTORS OF SEWING MACHINES


Barthelemy Thimonnier - First Functional Machine & a Riot
The first functional sewing machine was invented by the French tailor, Barthelemy
Thimonnier, in 1830. Thimonnier's machine used only one thread and a hooked
needle that made the same chain stitch used with embroidery. The inventor was
almost killed by an enraged group of French tailors who burnt down his garment
factory because they feared unemployment as a result of his new invention.


Walter Hunt & Elias Howe
In 1834, Walter Hunt built America's first (somewhat) successful sewing machine.
He later lost interest in patenting because he believed his invention would cause
unemployment. (Hunt's machine could only sew straight steams.) Hunt never
patented and in 1846, the first American patent was issued to Elias Howe for "a
process that used thread from two different sources."
Elias Howe's machine had a needle with an eye at the point. The needle was pushed
through the cloth and created a loop on the other side; a shuttle on a track then
slipped the second thread through the loop, creating what is called the lockstitch.
However, Elias Howe later encountered problems defending his patent and
marketing his invention.
For the next nine years Elias Howe struggled, first to enlist interest in his
machine, then to protect his patent from imitators. His lockstitch mechanism was
adopted by others who were developing innovations of their own. Isaac Singer
invented the up-and-down motion mechanism, and Allen Wilson developed a rotary
hook shuttle.

Isaac Singer Vs Elias Howe - Patent Wars
Sewing machines did not go into mass production until the 1850's, when Isaac
Singer built the first commercially successful machine. Singer built the first
sewing machine where the needle moved up and down rather than the side-to-side
and the needle was powered by a foot treadle. Previous machines were all hand-
cranked. However, Isaac Singer's machine used the same lockstitch that Howe had
patented. Elias Howe sued Isaac Singer for patent infringement and won in 1854.
Walter Hunt's sewing machine also used a lockstitch with two spools of thread and
an eye-pointed needle; however, the courts upheld Howe's patent since Hunt had
abandoned his patent.
If Hunt had patented his invention, Elias Howe would have lost his case and Isaac
Singer would have won. Since he lost, Isaac Singer had to pay Elias Howe patent
royalties. As a side note: In 1844, Englishmen John Fisher received a patent for a
lace making machine that was identical enough to the machines made by Howe and
Singer that if Fisher's patent had not been lost in the patent office, John Fisher
would also have been part of the patent battle.
After successfully defending his right to a share in the profits of his invention,
Elias Howe saw his annual income jump from three hundred to more than two
hundred thousand dollars a year. Between 1854 and 1867, Howe earned close to
two million dollars from his invention. During the Civil War, he donated a portion of
his wealth to equip an infantry regiment for the Union Army and served in the
regiment as a private.














Acknowledgement


This project would not have been possible without the guidance and the help of
several individuals who in one way or another contributed and extended their
valuable assistance in the preparation and completion of this portfolio.

First and foremost, my utmost appreciation to Mrs. Eden Valdez who gave me the
golden opportunity to do this wonderful project and and valuable support, in which
it is very useful in the days to come.

To selected classmates and friends for their help in building ideas and that despite
of the distance, they have thoroughly e-mailed the information I needed.

I would like to express also my special thanks of gratitude to my family who
supported me morally and financially.

Last but not the least, the one above all of us, the omnipresent, omniscient, and
omnipotent God, for answering my prayers for giving me the strength and wisdom,
thank you so much Dear God.


"Thanks again to all who helped me. God bless us!"















Portfolio in TLE
(DRESSMAKING)




Submitted by:
Geneva Yares
Grade 7-Mckenzie

Submitted to:
Mrs. Eden Valdez