WINTER SPORTS ENTERTAINMENT REAL ESTATE FREE

issue 18 global edition 2009

www.powderlife.com

Your Guide to Niseko

- Everything you need to know -

S E K O
OFF-HILL ACTIVITIES
there's more to niseko than skiing

NIGHT SKIING
niseko's vast flood-lit terrain

NISEKO SURVIVAL
essential niseko travel tips
I
Nseason 09/10
FLASH T check out the niseko social scene
RESTAURANT GUIDE T reviews, listings + recipes
LANGUAGE TIPS T learn the basics before you go
FREE POSTER T amazing images for your wall

Niseko’s powder lifestyle magazine fresh every two weeks

 intro T contents page
GROOMERS
NEWS PEOPLE PARTIES ETC
7 Page Seven // village news and happenings
8 Niseko News // be the first to know
10 Snap // faces and fashion on the mountain
11 Flash // niseko’s nightlife and party scene
12 Powder Tools // essentials for Niseko powder

FEATURES
A WAIST-DEEP LOOK AT NISEKO

winter print run 40,000 estimated readership 100,000+

this global edition 16,000 copies estimated readership 40,000+
14 OFF-MOUNTAIN ACTIVITIES
There's more to Niseko than skiing: If you somehow get
tired of skiing, there's plenty of other stuff to do.

16
Distributed at ski and travel expos, ski and snowboard stores and
wintersports businesses across Australia, Singapore, Hong Kong, A THOUSAND WORDS
Malaysia and the United Kingdom A gallery of the season's best action from the slopes... as
出版者 publisher Bevan Colless ベバン・コレス they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.
編集長 managing editor Kristian Lund クリスチャン・ランド

18
副編集長 associate editor Matthew Thomas マッシュー・トマス

デザイナー designer Geoffrey McRoberts ジェフ・マックロバーツ NIGHT RIDERS

投稿者 contributors Katherine Bont, Yasmin Edwards, Vanessa Niseko's vast flood-lit terrain: Nocturnal mountain riders
Gibson, Yuri Hamada, Sachiko Kageyama, Jerod McCann, Chika are treated to some of the world's best night terrain.
Matsuda, Naoki Miyamura, Tess Stomski, Saoka Wakasugi, Kim

20
Wejendorp and studio tdes
写真撮影 photography Glen Claydon Photography, Luke Hurford, RESTAURANT REVIEWS
ideapark, Jahl Marshall, Niseko Photography, Mike Richards Powderlife reviews two of Niseko's many dining options:
広告掲載に関するお問い合わせ advertising inquiries Restaurant Yo and Sekka Dining.
ads@powderlife.com

24 NISEKO SURVIVAL GUIDE

予約購読/既刊 subscriptions / past issues

info@powderlife.com
Powderlife Niseko Magazine is a Niseko Media Publication Essential Niseko travel tips: A whole heap of info to make
パウダーライフマガジンはニセコメディアが出版しています sure your trip to Niseko goes as smoothly as possible.
170-5 Aza Yamada Kutchan-cho
Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081
tel 0136 22 2000 fax 0136 22 2011 BACKCOUNTRY
www.powderlife.com HIKE OUT THE BACK FOR THE REST
©2009 Niseko Media KK
Contents of Powderlife are subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in
21 Japanese Cooking // soup curry and teriyaki chicken
part without written permission of the publisher is prohibited. The publication 22 Meet the Locals // introducing niseko locals
of editorial does not necessarily constitute an endorsement of views or 23 Irasshaimase // great little local businesses
opinions expressed. The publisher does not accept responsibility for state- 25 Learning Japanese // japanese basics
ments made by advertisers. 26 Course Map // mountain info
Niseko’s first English language periodical magazine – published every 27 Niseko Powder 101 // beginner's guide to pow
two weeks in Niseko between December and March, once as a Global 28 Walking Map // must have village directory
Edition, and once as Summerlife. 29 Phone Directory // your town pages
cover Kelly McEwan on cloud冬季期間
ニセコ初の定期刊行雑誌。 Niseko photo Niseko Photography
（１２月～３月） は２週間に１回 30 Local Information // essential tips and info on Niseko

2 powderlife ISSUE 18 global edition 2009 www.powderlife.com

 intro T editor’s note

Photo: Jahl Marshall

editor’s note...
I FIRST came to Niseko in 2006/07 to cross ‘do a ski season’ off my list of things to do before I got
old. At the end of the season I was going to backpack around Europe for a few months so I could
cross that off my list too. As it turns out, ‘backpack around Europe’ is still there… I’ve been in Niseko
ever since. There’s something about Niseko that gets people hooked, and for so many, whether
they’re tourists, seasonal workers, or just passing through on business, one trip isn’t enough and they
come back again and again.

I had skied a little while growing up but never anything like the deep powder I experienced here for
the first time. I made the change to snowboarding here, and within a week I was venturing off the
groomed runs and into the deep stuff, up to my waist, gliding through the softest, lightest snow
imaginable. Within two weeks I was looking for deeper and steeper slopes and going harder and
faster. Once I started, I couldn’t get enough of the feeling of freefalling down the mountain but still
having complete control – it’s so deep you can throw all your weight to one side to turn and literally
stop in an instant. I still don’t know exactly what it is that I love so much about floating through
powder… it just feels so good.

Snow is what first brings most people here, but it’s also everything about the area that makes them
stay. Japanese cuisine is becoming increasingly popular and trendy around the world. In Niseko,
there are so many excellent restaurants to suit all budgets and tastes (to get an idea see our
restaurant directory at www.powderlife.com/restaurants). Even after three years I still haven’t tried
them all. Onsens (hot springs) are another unique aspect of Niseko. Bathing outside in sub-zero
temperatures with pillows of snow all around in a traditional Japanese onsen is an amazing cultural
experience, not to mention fantastically therapeutic after a long day on the mountain.

Word of mouth has played a big part in Niseko’s rapid rise to international prominence over the past
few years. People can’t stop talking about how great their holiday was! Hearing about it is one thing,
experiencing it for yourself is another. After reading this magazine, there's a good chance ‘go to
Niseko’ will be on your to do list. We hope you’ll be crossing it off soon. See you then!

Kristian Lund, Powderlife Managing Editor kris@powderlife.com

4 powderlife ISSUE 18 global edition 2009 www.powderlife.com

 page seven T news
By Bevan Colless and Matthew Thomas

>> Yep, 2008/09 was a good season

THERE can be almost no doubting that if one of the main goals on
your skiing holiday is to get untracked powder, you should be coming
to Niseko. Local weather watcher Mike ‘Pow’ Richards collates his own
snowfall data and has been keeping meticulous record for the past
three seasons. According to Mike’s data to the end of March, the
longest period without any snowfall at village level all season was 10
days... and that was before the lifts started running for the season. In
other words, if you were here for a two-week holiday at any time this
season you would have had your powder fix. 08/09 seemed to have
more lift closures due to high winds, and more mid-winter warm spells
Cultural snapshots
than in recent seasons, but it was still head and shoulders above other HAVE you ever wondered what you
resorts in Japan. By mid-April, Niseko had seen 12.09m of snow at would look like dressed up in a
village level. The heaviest snow month was January with 334cm overall Japanese kimono? If you're a guy
and one whopping overnight dump of 52cm. February chipped in with that's a bit strange, but if you're a girl,
262cm and March (the dark horse) added a further 154cm, most of what better experience to take home
which fell in the epic last week of the month to round off another DEEEP... Mike Richards taking some from Niseko? Beautiful young local
extra long powder season in Niseko. measurements. Photo: Glen Claydon. lady Sanae-san's Sakura Japanese
Cultural Experience allows you to
T dress up in your choice of kimono and
have professional photos taken for
IT'S A DOG'S LIFE... sledding guides
with three of the Alaskan huskies.
>> Barking mad for dog sledding posterity. To truly immerse yourself in
Japanese culture, you can also partake
TEN hard-working huskies were among the newest residents to in a traditional green tea ceremony
arrive in Niseko last season. – there’s more to it than you think!
The ’08-’09 winter marked Niseko’s dog sledding debut,
offering an experience just like you would get in the wilds of
Alaska or Siberia – well, almost. The Niseko Dog Sledding
Experience boasts a holiday from the usual skiing, boarding or
hiking, and is run from the golf course at the foot of the Hilton
hotel in Niseko Village. There’s not much use for the golf course
during the winter – for obvious reasons – so hole No. 10 has
been transformed into a 400m dog sledding track. The five-
minute rides are for single and tandem riders, with the sled
pulled by two to three Alaskan huskies at a time. Niseko Village’s
marketing coordinator Tomoko Kazama recently tried her hand
at dog sledding for the first time, describing her ride as ‘speedy
and fun’. “It’s very interesting, too, because not many people
Car Danchi comp
have tried being pulled around in a sled by dogs before,” she THE Powderlife office was snowed
says. “So it is a new experience for most people.” under (it had to be said) earlier
Tomoko says many people would have seen, or more likely this year with amazing readers'
heard, the cute canines in the village. “You can hear the dogs pics of cars buried in snow for
barking and howling most of the time wherever you are in our Car Danchi competition. We
Niseko Village,” she says. “When I first heard them, I thought they put up for grabs a complete set of
were sad, but as soon as they start running they just don’t quit – Hokkaido’s famous Car Danchi
they love pulling people around.”
holiday niseko
snowboarding DVDs for the
Dog sledding runs throughout winter and costs ¥3675. For person who sent us the best
more information visit www.powderlife.com/activities. photo. After wading through
mound upon mound of awesome

>> A board for each foot: the ultimate powder tool

entries, we had a heap of
favourites. But at the end of the
day, we had to go with Andreas
TOKI-SAN from local retail and hire shop Niseko 343 was Comninos’s poor little snow-
the coach of a national ski team, and has been in Niseko covered Suzuki Cultus. Covered in
for a long time – so you can imagine he knows a thing or a giant mushroom of snow, this
two about how to ski powder well. He’s watched little buzz-box never stood a
snowboarders float over the white stuff while he was chance. Andreas found the car,
sinking into it for years, so one day he decided, if you can’t similar to a Suzuki Swift, near the
beat ‘em, join ‘em. So Toki-san fashioned a pair of skis out Ice Bar in Hirafu’s Middle Village.
of two snowboards to get him gliding over the powder with It was covered in so much snow,
even more float than the boarders. He tried a few different the car barely looked like a car at
methods of fitting the ski bindings to the board, and this all. “I had to dig it out and take
season settled on the perfect system. “I’ve used the K2 about 14 multiple angles, just to
Pontoon (one of the fattest skis on the market), but these prove that this was a car buried
give me 10 times the flotation of those,” he says. “They in the white good stuff,” Andreas
give your inner thighs a real workout on the groomed runs, says. We also gave away six
but on a powder day these are unbelievable. I’ve never felt T-shirts as complimentary prizes
flotation like it. I’ve used them 10 times so far this season, to the runners up, along with the
and been down from the peak three times.” Does he get major DVD prize. To see all the
some strange looks while wearing them? “Yes, people are pics that we couldn't fit the mag,
always stopping me to take photos and asking me what and to gain an insight in to just
they are like,” he says. And what if someone wanted to how much snow Niseko gets,
BUILT FOR
have a try of them for themselves? “I wouldn’t want to hire POW... Toki- check out www.powderlife.com/
them out, I think they’d probably do themselves an injury,” san with his media/photo-gallery/car-danchi.
he says. Okay, Toki-san, we’ll leave it to you. custom skis

6 powderlife ISSUE 18 global edition 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com global edition 2009 ISSUE 18 powderlife 7
 news T niseko news
By Yuri Hamada, Kristian Lund, Matthew Thomas
2020 vision for a
shot at bullet train
THIS time next year it will be known whether Niseko
will be serviced by Shinkansen (bullet train) from
Tokyo, according to local officials.
If it goes ahead, the service would be completed by
2020 and make it much quicker and easier for
international visitors to transfer from Narita, Japan’s
busiest international hub in Tokyo.
Local government believes the ease with which
domestic and international tourists could travel to
Niseko, and the resulting increase in associated
economic benefits and infrastructure, could greatly
enhance tourism and associated benefits in the area.
The trip from Tokyo to the local Kutchan Station
would take three-and-a-half hours. Kutchan to Sapporo
would take just 15 minutes, as opposed to two-to-three
hours by road.
Prices have not yet been confirmed, but based on
the cost of the 630km bullet train trip to Aomori at the
northern tip of the mainland (¥15,350), it could be
estimated the remaining 360km could bring the total
to about ¥20,000-25,000. In comparison, the trip from
Tokyo’s international airport Narita to Niseko, including
ground transfers, can take between five and eight
hours, and cost between ¥15,000 and ¥30,000.
In 2004 the Japanese government confirmed the
train would link Hokkaido to the mainland with a
station at Hakodate, on the southern tip of the island,
by 2015, and work began in 2005. Environmental
impact studies and economic assessments are currently
being undertaken and the government is expected to
make an announcement about whether the line will
extend to Sapporo, via Kutchan, in March next year.
Beginners flying high on magic carpet Best of Niseko 08/09
IN what is a first for Japan, Hanazono ski resort this
season opened its covered magic carpet lifts in a bid to
cater for families and beginner skiers and boarders.
With three belt lifts in total, ranging from 60m to
125m in length, the magic carpets are pretty hard to
miss – long, tunnel-like conveyor belt lifts that link the
lower ski runs with ‘308’, Hanazono’s centre and heart
with a restaurant, shops, media systems, entertainment
and more.
Niseko mostly caters to intermediate and advanced
riders with deep powder cravings – and does so very
well indeed. However, Hanazono saw an opportunity
to provide ‘the perfect learning environment for
beginners’, said the resort’s marketing director, Nigel
Abbott. He said the magic carpets also serviced the
snow tube and toboggan tracks at Hanazono, to create
the ‘perfect snow play environment’. “Whether you’re
a snowboarder or skier, child or adult, our learner
basin with these magic carpets, combined with
obstacle courses to develop skills, and good-quality
groomed snow, provides the perfect environment for
anyone who is starting out in the snow,” Mr Abbott
said. “This makes the whole experience around
learning very enjoyable.”
Hanazono also caters for kids, offering a fun full-day,
indoor-outdoor package with an instructor, offering
‘pint-sized good times’. “We also have an indoor facility
for kids, with kids-size tables, toilets, toys and activities,”
Mr Abbott said. “Kids can go in and get some shelter
from the snow and basically just have fun. Parents can
drop their kids off, hand them over to a qualified
instructor and pick them up at the end of the day,
knowing they are safe and having a great time.”
Mr Abbott said that while the magic carpets were
designed with novices, families and children in mind,
8 powderlife ISSUE 18 global edition 2009 www.powderlife.com
Youko Tanaka, spokesperson for the Kutchan Town
Office, is confident the train line will go ahead, and
said there would be many positives for Niseko and
Kutchan if it did.
Ultimately the region would grow in local
population and tourism numbers, she said.
Given the short commute time between Sapporo
and Niseko, more people from Sapporo could live in
the unpopulated region of Niseko while working in
Sapporo, Japan’s fifth largest city with a population of
about 1.9 million. It would also give people north of
Tokyo on the mainland the ability to easily access the
area, where previously they would have had to travel
by slow local train, or via Tokyo.
While planes are often disrupted by snow storms in
winter, a train service would rarely be delayed by
MAGIC... Hanazono's magic carpet.
they still helped out more experienced skiers and
boarders who were simply exhausted. “If you just can’t
be bothered, and are burned out after a big day up the
mountain, you can hop on the magic carpet and jump
out at the top and relax at 308, sit around, and have
something to eat or drink,” he said.
Mr Abbott said that this season marked the
beginning of Hanazono achieving full day resort
status, with plenty of plans in the pipeline for the
future. “This is the start of the first stage of the
development of Hanazono as a resort,” he said. “This is
just a taste of what is to come. We are really gearing
up for the future and want to bring more and more
people to the area that want to learn to ski or
snowboard, or simply indulge in some snow play.”
The Hanazono 308 Snowsports Centre opened in
December last year and is the first building to mark
Hanazono’s future master-planned resort
development. At the base of the resort, 308 is the
home of Hanazono's on-mountain activities, including
its ski school, retail and ski hire centre and restaurant.
FUJI-SAN... A Shinkansen passes in
front of Mt Yotei's big brother.
weather. On the bullet train, skiers from Sapporo would
also be able to access Niseko more easily, as previously
the easiest way to get there was by car on slow, icy
roads. The associated economic benefits would
probably ensure Eki Mae Dori, Kutchan’s main street,
would be redeveloped.
Ms Tanaka said a possible negative may be the
disruption of local train services, which may
inconvenience locals and those from surrounding
districts looking to access Kutchan.
According to current plans, 80 per cent of the track
from Hakodate to Sapporo would be tunnels, with
plans to bring the line above ground around the Niseko
region to allow the view of Mt Yotei and surrounds.
The train that would run the route would be the
HT Management/Holidays
fastest in the world with a top speed of 360kmh.
HOW can you possibly choose a favourite
restaurant in Niseko?! You can't. So you have to
ask the public to vote for theirs in Powderlife's
Best of Niseko Awards. The people have spoken,
the votes are counted. It’s time to announce
Niseko’s most popular businesses for 2008/09...
Restaurant – Sekka
New chefs Kat and Kim's passion is obvious, and
obviously impressed the critics this year.
Izakaya – Rin
Nestled in the Lower Village, this unassuming
izakaya wins over everyone lucky enough to find it.
Bar – Yuki Bar
Spacious, smoke-free, international party
atmosphere. One of Niseko's great good time bars!!
Onsen – Hilton
Looking out across the carp-filled pond towards Mt
Yotei, this is a classic Japanese onsen experience.
Café – Downtown Café
Great food, great coffee, great location, great
atmosphere, love the couches... (and cute staff!).
Convenience store – Lawson
Seicomart gets more business, but the long lines
are a killer... and Lawson has the 'juicy chicken'!
Resort – Niseko Village
Great groomers, amazing off-piste, 'ski-in' onsen.
Niseko Village has something for everyone.
Keep up to date with
the coming season
www.powderlife.com/news/
 FLASH
socials T snap flash T socials
Powderlife talks to skiers and boarders on the It's a tough job, but someone had to document all
slopes to find out what they love about Niseko. the parties going on in Niseko this season...

from Allie bounded

and Weeks across the roo
m, dodging sev
m Indonesia tter for the chance eral Grand Fin
m Sin ga po re, Erdina fro s th e sn ow: “It ’s be to be in this sh
ot with Mami al darts,
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sa id nu m ber one on ica ’s pr em ier resorts).
Malaysia North Amer so nice.” were schmoo
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quality than nd and the and Noriko,
g, it’s ea sy to get arou wi gs of Dr agon, Fumie y en d of se ason bash.
bi The big
isn ’t so at their craz
l gangsters
with the loca
Colourful Mina
mi, outnumb

Inski’s Wipeout
– Yuta, Mikuo, ered by a posse
Takuya, Hiroa of male friend
liked Niseko – ki, Shohei – we s from Sapporo Danny, Queenie,
great powder re very clear ab Frank and Rica fro
out why they m Hong Kong we for the
beer at their ho an d beautiful sce time of their live
s on their first day re having the high and reach
ne ry. They also lov and Morgan get

of the Week
tel at the end
of the day! e drinking even been up the
lifts yet. They like
in Niseko, and the
y hadn’t Anna, Hannah ngo lian Yurt tent.
i Ba r's Mo
change and there
was plenty of bea
d that Niseko offe
red a cool sky inside Samura
utiful white scener
y to take in.

CHRISTOPHE Machet was this season’s pouring

e time out from
prestigious Powderlife Wipeout of the Week cre w took som
The WIld Bill's an ks for the great ser vice!
m shot. Th
grand champion. Less than a second after drinks for a tea
this frame was snapped, the flying
Frenchman took out the hapless Chris and Dennis, was that night togeth
er
photographer below. For this Chamonix in the snow cave really an accident?
skier, Niseko's powder is an open licence to
do some pretty crazy things. Even better if Ladies d
ressed as
dodging lamb, A
those crazy things are caught on film, says the adva
nces of
J and Je
ss, spen
wolves at a pack o t the nig
Christophe who emailed us the snap. “I Wild Bil
l's for th f dar ht
e darts gr t-happy
couldn't resist the temptation to jump over and final
.
the trees,” he admits. “There's just so much
snow… but I now know that sometimes
wood can be hard to bend! But anyway, no This Mongo
lian yak he
injuries, and we saved the pictures for your passing thro
ugh Niseko
rdsman ha
ppened to
when he sto be
magazine – that's the most important bit of rand
om insanity pped in fo
at Dragon ra
point!” Thanks, Christophe! Wipeout of the Week will be back Bar.
next season, so keep the photos coming and we may just
said publish them in the 2009/10. Email hi-res photos with a short
from Scotland
ver-girl' Kelly blurb to ed@powderlife.com. Oh, and keep going big!
pro ski er Ni colas and 'co ac ce ssi ble by lift: “You
French is the peak is ep
about Niseko u ski waist-de
the best thing peak, then yo
a 15 -m inu te walk to the u do it ag ain ! What
only ha ve yo
ttom… then son and Chris
tried
lifts at the bo kes Derek, Ty
powder to the Big, burly blo ions with
nt? ” eir m acho reputat
else do yo u wa do wn th when the
hard to play at the Yuki Ba
r.
re loving the
spotlight
urfy T-shirts With Takako, Maki and These girls we
their very Sm Yuri looking like m era came their wa
y.
this, no wonder the Powderl ife ca
fellas flocked to
Samurai Bar for the
'Tight and Bright' Par
ty.

Maree and Wayne

from Australia sai
feel like nowher d Niseko had a un
e else in the world ique
first time we cam . “We thought tha
e here, it’s just so t the
and quiet up on unique. It’s so pea
the mountain, and ceful
everyone's so laid
back.”
Russians Ka
terina, Ye vg
eny and Sa Red Ba r when it
Niseko: “It ’s sha love th uble in the
a really mul e internatio s seeing do .
Japan, it's ea
sy to comm
ticultural re
sort and ev nal feel of Ever yone wa te rs Av ril and Maddy
unicate. Th en though okin' sis
doesn’t feel
busy. Oh ye ere's a lot of we ’re in came to sm
ah, the food people but Two beautif
is good and it ul ladies un and
the beer is wonder Powd der one wing o this season,
great.” , a beer in th e rage in Nisek

ountain
erlife's asso

MStyle
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Matt's so ha Dress up parti this Ru bik 's Cu be
ppy with hi
mself. re shining at
these girls we

CHECK out Kentaro’s ‘monster’ of a jacket! While this styling 686

number came with a wicked monster design it also came with a
monstrous price tag of ¥30,000 - because it’s rare – apparently one
of only 15 ever made. The Hiroshima boarder thought it was a good
deal, though – a small price to pay for stylin’ it up when he and his rth of Tokyo,
were
Fukushima, no
monster mash the mountain. Kentaro thought his 686 pants matched shitaka from can access so
much
Takako and Yo e tha t the y
st time and lov e off the most
up perfectly with his jacket, and we ahhhhgree. Kentaro-san, for your here for the fir ely. “They rop
ckcountr y saf where!!!”
frightfully good taste you win a Niseko fleece from Fusion. ungroomed ba n tha t yo u can ride every Ed, Jordan,
Amber and
as but other tha beer when th Lynda figured
dangerous are e bar can co "Why go to
the bar for a Ann ie, It took a lot of effort to gather up these gorgeous gals for a group shot,
me to you?!" e to be all sea son and
Good thinkin
g Yuki Bar! Spla sh was the plac l favo urit e.
and Oliv ia were lovi ng this loca but we think everyone will agree the final product was worth it.
Miy um i

10 powderlife ISSUE 18 global edition 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com global edition 2009 ISSUE 18 powderlife 11
 gear T powder tools
By Bevan Colless
Volkl Chopsticks
VOLKL have just about the biggest team of test skiers
in the business, and they listen to their feedback,
which has helped them become one of the most
decorated ski manufacturers in the world. If you're
into your powder skiing you'll be thinking about
packing a reverse camber pair in your quiver.
Alongside K2’s Hell Bents, the Volkl Chopsticks are
the leaders in this caper. The Chopsticks pack a
full wood core for plenty of pop and bend when
you need it and boast a meaty 128cm under
foot. Available from Larry Adler. Call +81 136
21 4050. Buy the Volkl branded chopsticks in
the ski wrapping for ¥85,000 and they’ll
throw in the skis for free.
Hotronic M4 Foot Warmer
Love skiing but hate cold feet? You can spend all your dough
on flash skis, boards, pants and thermals, but if your toes are
frozen and about to fall off you’re unlikely to be having much fun.
Hotronic is the original all-day battery powered foot-warmer and
they’re still the best. A rechargeable battery back clips onto the back of your
boots and is wired to a paper thin electrode that sits under the ball of your foot.
Haglofs Couloir Jacket
MOST mountain clothing labels make an instant
statement about their wearer. Burton: “I’m a
boarder”; Spyder: “I’m a skier”; Billabong: “I’m
actually more of a surfer”. Wearing Haglofs just says
“I know my stuff”. This Swedish brand is one
of my favourites and in Northern Europe
the mountain-hardened locals won’t be
seen in anything else. Built from Gore-
Tex soft shell fabric, the Couloir is 100
per cent waterproof, and, due to its
fleece backer, warmer than almost any
other shell on the market. It has two
hand-warmer pockets and a useful chest
pocket to hide essentials, and the big
helmet- compatible hood will shield you
from Siberia’s winds. It has the requisite
internal powder skirt that clips onto your
pants; so you’ll leave Niseko's powder in the bowls where it belongs.
Available from Niseko 343 Call: +81 136 23 0343. ¥73,500. Quality costs.
Nitro Gun Powderstick
“I am Shark Man. I am Hungry.”
So says the opening line of the
classic Hokkaido powder snow
DVD Car Danchi 2, overlayed on
a shot of diminutive Japanese
shredder Takamasa, ripping
some incredible turns in deep
powder on one of the notorious
Nitro Guns. If this 181cm deck is
not too long for him then it’s not
too long for you either. Just the
look of it screams of deep, deep
snow. The massive swallow tail
and signature shark’s mouth base
graphic will make sure you turn
heads in the lift queues but this
board is more than just for show.
The nose will rise above the
lightest and deepest powder and
it is built with plenty of flex so

BLACK DIAMOND
The electrode heats up from 1-4 depending on your needs, and a fully charged battery you can really whip your turns,
provides between three to 21 hours of power, depending on the level of heating required. and it'll still get you down
Your toes need never be cold again. The M4 is their top of the line unit and it has been groomers with ease. These bad
used on a number of Mt Everest summits, so they should get you to the top of Niseko's Mt boys sell out very quickly but
Annupuri or Yotei easy enough. Available from Larry Adler, on special for ¥28,000. Spadout.com still have some in
Call +81 136 21 4050. stock for US$750. Get clicking.

RESTAURANT & BAR

Japanese & Western Cuisine
Good Tunes, Vids, Drinks
Free Shuttles (call for pickup)
GUIDING Private Terrain Park
Niseko Off-Piste Pool Table
Niseko Back Bowls
Rusutsu Tours
Kokusai Tours
Kiroro Tours SKIER: JP AUCLAIR
Backcountry PHOTO: DAVID LEVIN

Where have you been this week?

www.blackdiamondtours.com reservations@bdlodge.com
info@blackdiamondtours.com 090-2054-8687 www.bdlodge.com 0136-44-1144

12 powderlife ISSUE 18 global edition 2009 www.powderlife.com

 feature T off-mountain activities off-mountain activities T feature
By Yasmin Edwards and Matthew Thomas
Japanese culture
T here's more to Niseko than skiing... Snowshoeing
One of the special attractions in Niseko is to walk on a lake of solid ice,
Onsens (hot spring baths)
Niseko is home to many great onsens.
Bathing in these steaming hot baths
THE amazing snowfall Niseko receives attracts
thousands of international tourists to the area, but when they
Activities with a difference especially when you discover the same lake is a popular swimming hole in
summer. Scott Adventure Sports (SAS) runs snowshoeing tours to Hangetsu-
with family and friends is one of Japan's
favourite cultural past times, and the
ko (Half-Moon Lake), that people of any age can enjoy. They will pick you up perfect relaxing answer to a long day up
arrive, they realise Niseko is so much more than just a ski hill.
Hilton Niseko Village Pure Action from your accommodation and take you on the short 10-minute drive to the the mountain. Onsens vary in price, but
Step inside from the cold and have lake at the foot of Mt Yotei before you strap into the snowshoes and head average around ¥600-800 per person.
There's a rich culture, warm hospitality, amazing cuisine, vibrant nightlife and an some fun at Hilton Niseko Village's off. The walk into the lake is beautiful and peaceful, and once you’re on the For a list of Niseko onsens and a list of
endless range of unique activities to experience. Whether you want to make a huge inflated adventure park. Drop lake your guide might fill a saucepan with snow and boil you a cup of tea cultural onsen dos and don'ts, go to
snowman, take a Japanese cooking class, or get behind the handle bars of a 150hp metres on to an inflated landing pad or and supply you with some snacks. If you're really lucky he might sing you a www.powderlife.com/activities.
snowmobile, there's something for everyone to do off the mountain in Niseko. joust with your friend on an elevated Nepali lullaby while you rest. You can traipse out on the lake for as long as
cylinder – the loser plummets to a soft you like before you decide to return to the van. A great day out that Japanese language classes
We’ve rounded up a comprehensive list of activities on offer for those days, and rubber landing below. Open every everyone can enjoy. Call SAS for bookings on +81 136 21 3333 or go to: One of the great things about visiting a foreign country is communicating with
nights, when you want to take off the skis or board and experience something else afternoon ¥1350. www.sas-net.com. the locals in their own language. Learn basic Japanese with Sarah and Yon (who
Niseko has to offer. You won’t be short of options! write Powderlife’s ‘Japanese for Powder People’ column, see p25). Learn useful
Karaoke words and phrases. Cost: ¥1000 (includes one drink). For time and location

Staying in the snow It sometimes comes as a surprise to foreigners that karaoke originated in Japan.
Here it’s usually done in private booths, which is a great way for those who are a
details go to www.thedailyenglishshow.com/nisekojapanese.

little shy to have a go, and they'll discover it really is a fantastic, liberating Kutchan Cultural Tours
Snowmobiling experience. For a list of Niseko karaoke joints go to www.powderlife.com/activities. Want an authentic Japanese cultural experience? Try Kutchan’s Cultural Tours, a hit
A number of companies run fully- throughout the season. These tours of ‘K-Town’ offer a taste of the orient with an
guided, hands-on snowmobiling tours in Winter river rafting cruises insight into a Japanese tea ceremony, a natural history museum and a Niseko sake
Niseko’s backcountry. With terrain suited Just the thought of how cold local rivers must be in winter is enough to make you brewery. Tours depart from the Niseko Safety Information Centre (next to
for all levels from beginner to expert, shiver. But drifting down the local Shiribetsu River under the guidance of a Seicomart). For more information, call +81 136 23 0222.
you can simply drive slowly around a professional local rafting guide gives tourists the opportunity to experience Niseko's
track or venture out to the far reaches of amazing snowbound landscape from a completely different perspective. Tours with Japanese cooking workshops
the deep powder backcountry to places Hokkaido Lion Adventures and NOASC are roughly 1-2 hours and cost about ¥4000, Want to try and recreate that superb
that are unattainable by foot, ski or less for kids. For details check www.powderlife.com/activities. dish you had at that izakaya last night?
board. Costs range from ¥1000 for a Photo: Glen Claydon.
Niseko Gourmet offers Japanese cooking
quick burn up, to around ¥40,000 for full and half days tours. Check www. Snowshoe Paintball workshops during winter. For details see
powderlife.com/activities for companies. Snowshoeing is fun, but snowshoeing while trying to shoot your friends takes it to www.niseko-gourmet.com. T
another level. Snowshoe Paintball is on the outskirts of Hirafu. ¥6300 per person for SNOWSHOEING... SAS guide Binod
Igloo camping 150 paint balls. Minimum of six people to play. Open 1.30pm-3.30pm. with Yasmin on frozen Half Moon Lake
Boukenkazoku offers a range of activities but one of the most unique is igloo For contact details go to www.powderlife.com/activities
camping (¥7350 per person, includes two meals, minimum two persons). More
information at www.bouken-kazoku.com. Indoor rock climbing

10%
Had enough of working your legs outside in the cold? Maybe it's time to balance
Hanazono Adventure Park things up a bit by giving your upper a body a workout on Niseko's indoor climbing
Loads of activities for both big and small kids to enjoy daily, from 9am to 4pm. wall. Located inside NAC (Niseko Adventure Centre), there's walls of varying off pre season
bookings
Drive your own snowmobile on a summertime golf course for ¥1100 yen, drive for heights and difficulties for kids to adults. JoJo's cafe upstairs overlooks the 10m
8km on the Rabbit Course for ¥6400. Covered magic carpets offer lift access for snow main wall, which is great for a post climb lunch, dinner or snack. Open
play fun on sleds and snow-tubes. Tubes are ¥1800 per hour, or use the premium 8.30am-10pm every day.
sled, complete with brakes and steering mechanism, for ¥1500. Snow-rafting whisks
you around a specially designed course of berms for ¥1500 for adults and ¥1000 for
children. And enjoy a guided tour and strap on some snowshoes. An hour for ¥3000
for adults and ¥2500 for kids. More info at www.skihanazono.com.
Dog sledding
Fun for the young ones
Situated on the golf course at the
Kids Land Annupuri base of the Niseko Village Hilton,
Tobogganing and tubing for the little dog sledding is something that
ones between 9.30am and 4pm at everyone should try once in their
Annupuri. Tobogganing is ¥300, and lifetime. Upon arrival, you will be
tubing is ¥500 per hour. For more shown to the course from the office,
information call +81 136 58 2080, or passing about six out of eleven (on a
check www.cks.chuo-bus.co.jp/ rotation system) excited Alaskan Professional sports and
annupuri. huskies outside their own snow cave relaxation massage in five
home. Firstly, the sledding guides star luxury
Hirafu Alpen Kids Park and Zoo will get you on the back of a DOG'S LIFE... two Alaskan
Tobogganing and tubing all day for free from 11am to 5pm. There is also a zoo snowmobile to show you the course huskies take Vanessa for a ride. +
with penguins, rabbits and llamas, open from 10.30am until 5pm. Cost is ¥500. – a simple loop, somewhat similar to
For more information call the Alpen Hotel on +81 136 22 1105. a small racetrack. Once you get your bearings, you’ll stand on the small,
wooden-framed sled and learn to get around the one tight corner. There’s a
Niseko Kids at Niseko Village small seat at the front of the sled for the little ones, to get everyone
Tobogganing and tubing for free from 8.30am to 4.30pm. Go to www.powderlife. involved. Before you know it, two friendly, pumped up dogs are clipped on
com/activities for details. and you’re off. Around the 400m track, around the corners and up and down
the mini-hills, the dogs run the last leg with enthusiasm for the prize of
Kids’s Snow Adventures vegetable soup waiting at the finish line. Dog sledding runs from 10am-3pm,
Designed for the little ones aged four to 12 years, experienced instructors ensure but Powderlife’s tip is to get the earliest booking you can, when the dogs are
children enjoy themselves with a variety of snow activities on these half and full- full of energy and the snow is fresh. For ¥3,675 for adults and ¥2,675 for
day programs. ¥5000 for a half day, or ¥11,000 for a full-day including lunch. children, dog sledding is a great experience that people of all ages can try.
off your first massage!
More information at www.powderlife.com/activities. For more information go to www.powderlife.com/activities. Just email your name to
info@nisekomassage.com before Nov 30

14 powderlife ISSUE 18 global edition 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com global edition 2009 ISSUE 18 powderlife 15
 o usand
t h
A ds...
wor
FIRST TRACKS… Hideaki Imaizumi enjoys
some early morning solitude. Photo: Luke Hurford.

SHADY CHARACTER… a Niseko boarder takes cover from

the sunshine. Photo: Rory Gardiner, Niseko Photography.

MUSHROOMS… Tom Costa enjoys a trip

deep in the backcountry. Photo: Glen Claydon.

YES, SENSEI… ski instructor Adrian Camp gives a

lesson in demolition. Photo: Glen Claydon.

POSTCARD PERFECT… Mt Yotei provides a TRAILBLAZING… leaving only tracks and

beautiful backdrop to the ski slopes. Photo: Jahl Marshall. vapour trails in the backcountry. Photo: Glen Claydon.
 feature T night riders night riders T feature
By Matthew Thomas

voice of the
Night riders: people
Powderlife took to the slopes to ask the public
The what they thought of night riding in Niseko...

Peter, Hong Kong Theo, Hong Kong

I don’t have a The light and the
particular preference snow are both better

Niseko after dark

between day and at night. When I skied
Night riders night. I like skiing Whistler at night,

X have their say in Niseko night and day, but only the bottom of

X
the best thing about the mountain was
night skiing is there usually open. But in
are far fewer people. Niseko, most of the
mountain is rideable.
AN
NU

Bruce, Australia Randall, Australia

PU
RI

It’s bloody awesome There are fewer

– you can actually people up there at
see what’s going on! night, and we’ve got

X
NISEKO VILLAGE
HIR
AF I’ve had my best two young kids who
U
skiing here at night. settle down in front
The light and the of the TV, so we can

X
way the shadows are take turns skiing. It
cast on the also helps you work
mountain look amazing. up a thirst for Japanese beer, too.
Nocturnal skiers and snowboarders
in Niseko are treated to some of the best NIGHTTIME PANORAMA... From left to right, Niseko United's Shougo, Sapporo Yuka, Osaka (living
flood-lit night terrain the world has to offer. Annupuri, Niseko Village and Grand Hirafu. Photo: Niseko Photography. It’s easy to see all in Niseko)
the bumps at night, I go night skiing on
After dark, three-of-four Niseko United resorts are still Although crowds are rarely a problem at the been known to be knee-deep in powder by night, and and it’s not too cold. my nights off, so
open for business – Hirafu, Niseko Village and moment in Niseko, runs are often deserted at night nothing short of amazing. Get up there at night after I like both day and about three or four
Annupuri – with Hirafu the most popular and ample time, meaning skiers and boarders can get open slather the lifts have been reopened from being closed all day night skiing. I times a week. If I’m
locale for night riding. True to Niseko’s belief in on the mountain, and don’t usually have to deal with due to high winds, and you’ll often be treated to some usually go night not working, I go
opening up as much terrain as possible – as per its lift queues or crowded runs. It’s mostly local riders, and of the best banked up powder on offer. If the snow’s skiing about two or night riding, unless
liberal, accessible backcountry policy – a vast amount not so much the tourists, who take advantage of the really coming down, much of the time your tracks will three times a month. it’s windy because it
of the mountain is well-lit and rideable by night, mountain once the sun has disappeared. Sliding be filled in by the time it takes to get to the bottom gets too cold. The snow is
especially in Hirafu, where about 70ha of mountain is downhill by night is popularly thought of as a pastime and catch the lift back up to the top. Niseko nights are fluffier at night too. T
open, accessed by most lifts, except for the peak. of the skilled; it’s when the pros to come out and play usually when the sometimes harsh weather goes to bed AIN'T IT GRAND... there's so much terrain to explore
Niseko is one of the few places in the world that is so after work, because most tourists are too preoccupied – it can be calm and eerily still, and with temperatures after dark at Grand Hirafu. Photo: Niseko Photography.

well-lit at night, off-piste and tree runs are still there
for the taking, as well as the groomers; it’s a strange yet
amazing experience being able to dash confidently
between trees at night.
It should be said that the mountain is a completely
different world in the hours of darkness, and well worth
exploring. “With the way the mountains are lit up at
night, it’s like a 3D fantasy world up there when it’s
dark,” says Annupuri’s general manager, Toshio Fujisawa.
“Skiing at night is part of Japan’s snow culture, because
Japanese always try to maximise the amount of time
they spend riding up on the mountain.”
hitting the bars and restaurants. Having all this space
to themselves, Niseko’s skiers and boarders will often
be seen riding much faster, and with wild abandon and
an aura of invincibility. Although it’s dark, night time is
show time.
With fewer people on the mountain, it can usually
make for a treat for riders, because the mountain and
its precious powder doesn’t get tracked out or smashed
up anywhere near as fast. There can regularly be more
powder out there at night than riders know what to do
with. The groomers, which, during the day, are tracked
out almost instantly and resemble corduroy, have even
lower, it frequently makes for lighter, fluffier, better
quality powder.
Many would be surprised to hear that visibility at
night is often crystal-clear – much better than during
the day, when daytime white-outs frequently make
things a little unclear. With a good pair of goggles,
moments of clarity are a constant at night.
So, considering all this, the next time you want to
call it a night, head to the pub, or hit the onsen,
perhaps reconsider and go back up for a night ride.
Then, when the sun eventually creeps back up over Mt
Yotei, it’s time for riding by day with the diurnals.

Niseko nights: the stats

NISEKO has offered night skiing at Grand Hirafu
– the most popular night-time hotspot –
since way back in February, 1967…believe it or not.
On average, currently about 900 individual skiers and
boarders head up the mountain after dark, compared
to around 4000 during the day. At Hirafu, 1287 metal
halide lamps have been erected strategically around
the resort, lighting a vast amount of accessible night
terrain, including the Ace Family Pair lift for beginners,
and plenty of intermediate and advanced courses and
tree runs, both on and off-piste. Every day, it costs
Hirafu around ¥100,000 to power its lights with 1100
kilowatts per hour until last lifts at around 9pm.
A smaller night spot is at Niseko Village, formerly
known as Higashiyama, which has been operational at
night for about 25 years. Niseko Village has two lifts
operating – Banzai and the Community Chair – which
give access to night runs such as Don’t Blink, Pure
Magic, Cruiser, Next Stage, Shaky Knees and Final Fling.
In the ’06-’07 season, Niseko Village had almost 75,000
riders pass through the gates, and over 100,000 last
X
season. It costs Niseko Village more than ¥5000 to light
its runs each night, not including costs to power lifts.
With 35 years of night-skiing, Annupuri is traditionally
the only resort to groom its runs after the daytime
skiers and boarders carve it up – before the night
riding begins. Around 1800 people go through the
turnstiles at Annupuri each evening (may include one
rider going up multiple times), to access 14.7ha of
terrain – the courses open at night time are Family,
Junior and Dynamic runs. One busy night two years ago
saw the gates at Annupuri tick over around 4500 times
in one evening. It costs about ¥20,000 per night to
power the lights at Annupuri, which run at 263
kilowatts per hour. With mostly flat terrain accessible at
night, and lit by three different sorts of lights (214 in
total) to give off a ‘moody, 3D effect’, Annupuri offers a
good night spot for beginners or families keen to get
IN THE SPOTLIGHT... the lack of sunlight didn't stop Aaron Karitis of
out for a ride after dark. Alaskan H20 Heli-Guides getting deep at Hirafu. Photo: Glen Claydon

18 powderlife ISSUE 18 global edition 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com global edition 2009 ISSUE 18 powderlife 19
 food T restaurant reviews
Restaurant Yo
Savour an ancient culture at Hurry Slowly
By Kat and Kim
Sekka Dining chefs
NESTLED down in the Lower Village, tucked away
behind pension Hurry Slowly, is Restaurant Yo, one of
Niseko’s great traditional Japanese dining experiences.
Yo is no ordinary restaurant – bookings need to be
made at least a day in advance as they source their
ingredients fresh every morning, and only enough for
the customers they have that evening. Just dropping in
won’t do, and with only four tables and a barbeque
room, booking early is advised.
When you make the booking, you’re asked which
menu you’d like. On offer is the original menu at ¥3500
per person, consisting of nine to 10 dishes, where you
get to choose the star attraction from a beef sukiyaki
course, a seafood course, a vegetable course, or a hand-
rolled sushi (temakizushi) course. There’s also another
option for Japanese barbecue for ¥4500 per person;
served in the traditional style, with a sunken hearth to
charcoal grill meat, seafood and vegetables. Served
alongside the barbecue is a hot pot, salad, sashimi and
more. Then there is the beef shabu-shabu, where you
cook the thinly sliced beef in a pot of simmering broth
on the table, then dip it into your favourite sauce.
Served alongside the shabu-shabu course you get
temakizushi, yakitori and salad. We opted for the ¥5500
special course. Here, you can still choose from the
previous four courses, with the addition of a few more
premium Hokkaido specialties, such as Taraba crab. We
both agreed on the beef sukiyaki course.
On arrival, we step through the door into a little stone
garden that leads to the restaurant. Even the chef pops
around the corner to welcome us. Looking around, each
table is in its own small separate room, but windows
through to the other rooms ensure you feel private,
though not isolated. As the food has already been
Sekka Dining
A hip taste of class, warmth and space
By Vanessa Gibson
Powderlife’s resident foodie
THE original Sekka restaurant was one of modern-day
Niseko's first really chic eateries. Now a brand name
encompassing everything from delicatessens to uber-
luxury property developments, Sekka’s new restaurant,
in the stylish new J-Sekka complex, has helped take the
local restaurant scene to new heights. Now it’s not only
very elegant, but the food has taken it to a sublime new
level with the arrival of some great new talent in the
kitchen in Katherine Bont and Kim Wejendorp. Kat and
Kim spent the past decade travelling the world, working
in a variety of top restaurants and sampling exotic
cuisine. Their influence convinced the public to vote
Sekka Dining best restaurant in Powderlife’s Best of
Niseko Awards this year for the first time.
From the moment you enter Sekka, you are
immediately aware it is something different. Set in a
large vaulted basement space, diners first wind their
way down into a glowing lobby, passing a life-size
print of two sumo wrestlers entangled mid-battle,
before entering the restaurant. A mezzanine level
above overlooks the central main dining space. In one
corner is a floor-to-ceiling glass fronted wine cellar,
and a projector shoots grainy old Japanese film
footage onto one wall.
At our table, exquisite large Reidel glasses – not
common in Japanese dining, and probably unknown
20 powderlife ISSUE 18 global edition 2009 www.powderlife.com
ordered, the only decision to make is what to drink. The
sampler set of sakes is a great way to experience the
subtle differences between good Japanese rice wines,
and get a feel for what you would like to continue the
evening with. We both agreed our favourite was the
Hakkaizan, dry with a little spice. Oishii!
The first dish of the evening is a small plate of zensai
(Japanese hors d'œuvre), some small school prawns,
cream cheese with bonito and nori (dried seaweed), and
four plump edamame (soybeans in the pod) with a
sprinkle of togarashi (a hot Japanese spice). After we
have savoured the zensai, a small flame is lit under a
stone cooker in front of each of us. Under the lid,
mushrooms, tofu, negi (spring onion), onion, Japanese
herbs and the famous Wagyu beef sit in a little broth,
gently heating until cooked, with a raw egg on the side
to dip in to.
Then, a lidded pot is brought forth. The lid is lifted
and a square of tofu covered in a crab sauce is unveiled.
anywhere else in Niseko – complement the excellent
wine list. We ordered a glass of the Alkoomi Semillon
Sauvignon Blanc, and to accompany it some fresh
homemade flatbread dipped in olive oil and fresh
aromatic dukkah, something I had previously eyed off
in the attached deli.
Sekka has always had Italian-Japanese fusion
influences, but this season Kat and Kim have worked
hard to source exquisite Hokkaido delicacies, and
prepare them with a variety of imaginative techniques.
We were finding it difficult to choose a starter, they all
looked so enticing. Kat helped us with our decision,
recommending the hamachi (yellowtail) cured with
sake and served with scattered Hokkaido green olives,
capers and wisps of saffron. The dish was light and
Again, the aroma leaps out and drags us in. The tofu,
silky soft, takes the subtle flavour from the crab
beautifully. The next dish in the progression is a bit of a
'do-it-yourself-er'. A small clay grill, embellished with
kanji calligraphy and filled with glowing coals, lands on
the table followed by a tray of goodness – the goodness
being okra, shitake mushrooms, Hokkaido diver
scallop, Taraba crab leg and Wagyu beef. The idea is to
grill each piece to your liking, then dip it in to the
waiting wasabi, salt or lemon. It’s just like cooking on
an outdoor barbecue, only inside and at a table. The
crab is phenomenal, the taraba is juicy and sweet, and
the flesh from the legs just keeps on coming. The
Wagyu beef flavour lasted and lasted.
A trio of nigiri sushi appeared quickly after the grill
was removed, the rice shaped into cute little rounds.
They were topped with salmon, eel and scallop, still
warm from the cooker and seasoned just so. As the last
nigiri disappeared, a plate of ultra-fresh sashimi filled
delicate and the combination of flavours worked to
enhance the hamachi. The other starter we tried was a
renowned favourite (pictured right) – large, plump
Hokkaido scallops (hotate) served with nearby Otaru
cherry blossom wood-smoked chunks of bacon, seared
soya bean and bean puree. A unique and exquisite
combination of flavours. I closed my eyes while eating
it to savour the experience.
For the second course, we chose a delicate linguini
with fresh Hokkaido crab. The subtle taste of chili was
evident, but with Kim’s deft touch, it was by no means
over-powering. Our second entree of grilled prawns
served on soft white polenta, Okhotsk rind and braised
beans was also brilliantly constructed.
For the main, I again opted for hamachi – this time
its place. More scallop and salmon, this time
accompanied by tuna, snapper and prawn.
By now we were starting to feel content, but there
were still three courses to come. The first was a piece
of whitefish with sautéed Japanese greens and wild
mushrooms. Then, a braised pork belly, tender and
full of flavour. The belly was topped with a dab of
hot Japanese mustard to cut the richness. Finally, a
slice of azuki (small red bean) and chestnut cakes
with a cup of Japanese tea. Feeling content we
wandered off into the snow, knowing the next time
we come we’ll be hurrying not too slowly, as we know
what’s waiting.
For more great reviews and a whole lot more
about food, check out Kat and Kim's blog @
www.bigfoodsmallworld.blogspot.com.
For contact details, opening hours and
directions for Restaurant Yo, go to:
www.powderlife.com/restaurants.
pan-roasted – served with Niseko potato, negi,
cabbage and saffron citronette in a balanced, tasteful
and elegant ensemble. My partner predictably
ordered Sekka's renowned slow-cooked Tokachi beef
cheek, which was as good as he remembered from
last year. Both dishes, we agreed, were excellent.
We finished the meal off with a refreshing scoop of
pure mandarin sorbet and a hazelnut brittle with
burnt-orange caramel sauce - a delightfully sweet end
to an indulgent evening.
Prices at Sekka were fair, considering the quality
ingredients, unique creations, and excellent service.
Most dishes ranged between ¥2000-3000.
For contact details, opening hours and directions, go
to: www.powderlife.com/restaurants.
Hokkaido
Soup Curry
By Jerod McCann & Naoki
Miyamura of EN in-house fine dining.
SOUP curry is yet another Hokkaido restaurant speciality.
Unlike regular thick Japanese curry, the base of soup
curry is thin, bringing out the flavours of the many
spices in the soup stock and complementing the variety
of ingredients such as vegetables, potatoes and meat.
Ingredients
6 cups chicken or beef stock
1 carrot, diced
1 celery stick, diced
4 onions, sliced thin
1 apple
1 can whole tomatoes
1 chunk dark chocolate
1 bay leaf
5 large cloves garlic
1 large thumb ginger
1 large dried chili pepper
Dry spice mix of cumin, turmeric, coriander, black
pepper corn, garam masala, curry powder, oil (as
needed), salt/pepper
Making the roux
1. In a wide-base 2L pot, add sliced onion and a
tablespoon of oil. Sauté on low heat until amber-
brown with a paste-like texture (caramelised).
2. Grind garlic, ginger and apple into onions.
Simmer 5 minutes, mash well.
3. Add all dry spice mix, chocolate, dried chilli,
continue mashing. Simmer again until dry.
4. Add tomato and simmer, continue mixing.
5. Once roux has thickened to heavy paste,
incorporate stock. Increase heat and bring to a
light boil.
Finishing the soup
1. Lower heat until simmering and add carrots,
celery and bay leaf.
2. Simmer for 2 hours, occasionally scraping the
bottom of the pot to prevent burning.
3. Cut heat and ladle curry into separate bowl
through metal strainer. With each ladle full, push
curry through strainer making sure to get all liquids
out. Transfer back to 2L pot and bring back to low
simmer.
4. Adjust seasoning with salt, adding more dry
spices if necessary.
Creating the dish
You can be creative – just about anything can go into
a soup curry. The chef’s recommends trying carrot,
mushroom, pumpkin, potato, green snap peas, a
boiled egg and a leg of chicken. Assemble in the
middle of a large serving bowl and ladle in the hot
curry soup. Side with freshly cooked rice.
www.powderlife.com global edition 2009 ISSUE 18 powderlife
japanese recipes T food
Simple Teriyaki
Chicken
Tess Stomski and Sachiko Kageyama from Niseko
Gourmet share their teriyaki chicken recipe.
YAKI, griddling or pan frying, is a technique of cooking
used widely in Japanese cuisine. Teriyaki, sukiyaki and
yakitori are foods that fall under the yakimono or
‘grilled things’ category. What separates teriyaki is the
sauce. Teri, translated as gloss, describes the sheen of
the sauce made from the basic Japanese ingredients of
soy, sake and mirin which is added to the dish in the
final stages of cooking. Teriyaki chicken is a popular
dish on Japanese restaurant menu’s around the world.
Ingredients (serves 4 people)
4 Chicken thighs
2 tsp Japanese cooking sake
Vegetable oil
Salt and pepper
1 to 2 tablespoons sugar
Teriyaki marinade
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tsp shredded ginger
4 tsp soy sauce
2 tsp Japanese cooking sake
1 tsp Mirin
2 tsp water
1 tsp honey
1 tsp bonito fish stock powder
Method
1. Puncture skin of chicken thigh, making plenty of
holes. Pour sake on top and leave to rest.
2. Place all marinade ingredients into a large bowl
and mix well. Add chicken thighs and marinate for
15 minutes.
3. Heat a little vegetable oil in fry pan on medium
heat. Place chicken thighs skin side down and
season with salt and pepper to add flavour while it
cooks. Reserve the marinade.
4. Once skin starts to golden, turn over and continue
cooking over low to medium heat.
5. Once chicken is cooked through, remove from
pan and set aside.
6. In the same pan, add remaining marinade sauce
on a medium to high heat. Sauce will start to
simmer quickly so add sugar immediately and stir
until dissolved.
7. Return chicken to pan with simmering marinade
sauce. Coat chicken well and continue to cook for
another 30 seconds to one minute.
8. Slice and serve with steamed rice and green salad.
More recipes, more
restaurants at our website
www.powderlife.com/restaurants/
21
 people T meet the locals
By Saoka Wakasugi
LIFTIE Kon-chan
name Kana Konno
age 25 hometown Kanagawa
time in niseko 2 weeks
ski/snowboard? Snowboard
how long have you been snowboarding? 8 years
why did you come to niseko? Powder snow!
what do you do in summer? Worked in Furano as a part-time
farmer
what languages do you speak? Japanese... studying English at
the moment
trips to overseas? Yep, Hawaii
where do you want to go next? Canada, India
favourite...
colour Turquoise blue, deep blue brand 686, Burton and
Salomon food Zangi (fried chicken) restaurant Melt in Niseko
Village bar Black Diamond onsen Niseko Higashiyama Onsen
which foreign ski resort do you want to go to? Whistler
how long will you be in niseko? Until the end of March
what is your life motto? Go to many places, meet lots of
people and find out who I really am
22 powderlife ISSUE 18 global edition 2009 www.powderlife.com
LIFT PASS OFFICE Kumikko-chan
name Kumiko Ishii
age 33 hometown Tokyo
time in niseko 3 years
ski/board? Board
how long have you been skiing for? 10 years
why did you come to niseko? Because I decided I wanted to
live in Niseko
what languages do you speak? Japanese
trips overseas? New Zealand, Fiji, Singapore, Guam
where do you want to go next? Prince Edward Island
favourite...
colour Green brand None food Curry
restaurant Shokusai Hirafu bar Paddy McGinty’s
onsen Yusenkaku and Alpen Hotel
ski run Strawberry Fields
how long will you be in niseko? Forever :)
where else in the world do you want to go skiing?
Chisennupuri and Whistler
niseko secret? Toyokuni in Rankoshi is beautiful
what’s your life philosophy? Be kind to others
izumikyo
As soon as you walk in to a Japanese business, every staff member in sight will cry ‘irasshaimase!!’, meaning ‘welcome’. In each issue of Powderlife, we
take a look behind the scenes of Niseko's great little local businesses – the origins of the owners, the motivations behind what they do, and most
importantly, what makes their product or service so good. Here we bring you the unsung heroes of Niseko… irasshaimase!!
GROOMER Akio-san
name Akio Nagahata
age 32 hometown Iwate Prefecture
time in niseko? 7 years
ski/board? For now, snowboarder
how long have you been skiing/boarding? Ski 8 years, board
about 11 years
why did you come to niseko? It just happened
what did you do in summer? Make jibs
what languages do you speak? Japanese, Tohoku dialect, fake
Kansai dialect
trips overseas? USA, Canada, Korea
where do you want to go next? Italy, Spain
favourite…
colour Red brand Burton food Soup Curry restaurant Tsubara
Tsubara curry soup restaurant bar I don't really go to bars
onsen Yuki Chichibu ski run Tetsu Course
where else do you want to go skiing overseas? Park City (USA)
what does niseko need? A McDonalds
niseko secret? Gonta water (it comes from a bear statue)
what’s your life philosophy? Easy come, easy go
welcome irasshaimase T people
By Saoka Wakasugi
Kokoroya
Kokoroya owner Chizuko-san has always been fasci-
nated with kimonos. One day, she saw a box filled with
a kimono in the garbage and thought what a waste that
such a beautiful thing should be thrown away. So she
decided she would start using this traditional material
to make modern clothes and accessories. She hopes to
encourage people not to throw away old things that can
still be of use to others. Chizuko-san opened Kokoroya
in Kutchan four years ago and last year she also opened
Kokoroya Hirafu in the Dragon Restaurant and Bar
building, just below the traffic lights. One of the most
popular items among foreigners is obi (kimono belts) for
ornamental display. Every Sunday, Obi and Kimono are
10 per cent off (not inc. items on sale).
Shogun Sushi Yakitori & Bar Yosaku
There are three reasons why Shogun Sushi in Kutchan ONE of Hirafu’s coolest new restaurants is yaki-
is one of the Niseko’s best sushi restaurants. One is the tori joint Yosaku. Yakitori is basically skewered
quality of the chef’s expertly selected fish. The second grilled chicken, but there are plenty of other
is the secret way in which he prepares his rice. And meat and vegetable combinations, which can
the third is owners Katsuhiko and Kazuko Sodekawa. come cooked in either salt or a dark soy-type
They take great interest in every customer and delight sauce. Owner Akihiro Kimura (second from right)
in meeting foreign visitors and introducing them to came to Niseko four seasons ago to work as a
Japan’s most famous cuisine. The restaurant is nearly carpenter. When he noticed the large basement
50 years old and the couple has been running it since space below the NOASC building was available
1983 when they took it over from Kazuko’s parents. If he decided it would be a good place to make a
you want to enjoy an authentic Japanese sushi meal restaurant/bar. Stepping down out of the snow
and experience the warmest of Japanese hospitality, in to Yosaku and smelling the strong smell of
Shogun Sushi is a must. For directions and details go to Yakitori is a truly fantastic Niseko/Japan experi-
www.powderlife.com/restaurants. ence. Details at www.powderlife.com/restaurants.
www.powderlife.com global edition 2009 ISSUE 18 powderlife 23
 travel guide T niseko survival guide learning japanese T language
By Matthew Thomas By studio tdes

Niseko Survival Guide Japanese for powder people

Cash
Japan is still largely a cash society, and Niseko is no different.
Some places accept credit cards but many smaller shops,
businesses and accommodation houses don’t. For maximum
convenience and to avoid missing out on that fantastic looking
little restaurant or unique souvenir shop that you may not
pass again, it is advised that you carry cash.
ATMs
There is no ATM that will accept international cards in Hirafu,
Hanazono, Niseko Village or Annupuri. If you need to
withdraw cash from an ATM, you will need to go to a post
office in Kutchan Town, which is a 10-15 minute taxi or bus
ride away. The post offices in Kutchan have ATMs with English
instructions (there are also English-language international
ATMs at most 7-Elevens). The main post office is on Eki Mae
Dori (the main street), on the opposite side of Route 5 from
the train station.
Powderlife’s hot tip is to get cash out at the international
ATM at the airport when you arrive at in Sapporo (New Chitose
Airport). Go to level three and use the Citibank ATM which
accepts many international cards.
Cards and networks accepted at post office ATMs are: Visa,
Visa Electron, Plus, MasterCard, Maestro, Cirrus, American
Express, Diners Club, JCB, China UnionPay. Please note, there
may be restrictions on the different accounts you can access
for different banks and networks, for example credit and
cheque accounts on debit cards on the Cirrus/Maestro/Plus
networks. If you're going to Kutchan solely to use the ATM, it
might be a good idea to ask your accommodation provider to
call the post office to check before you go. The main post
office ATM is open weekdays 8.45am-7pm and weekends 9am-
5pm. Public holidays it may be closed.
Credit cards
Lift tickets, ski hire and ski lessons can all be paid for by credit
card. Most large restaurants and some small ones also will
accept them (check the Powderlife.com restaurant guide).
At your convenience Lesson 1: Top 10 Japanese words for beginners
There are two convenience So you heard about Niseko’s legendary powder, booked the flights, threw the skis/
stores in town for all your local board in a bag, and now you’re here… wishing you had taken a few Japanese
shopping needs. The iconic lessons so you could say something to the person sitting next to you in the chairlift
Seicomart in the heart of or say thank you to the kind person who helped you get on the right bus. A few
Hirafu is arguably king, but words can go a long way, especially if you pick the right words. If you only have
Lawson, the blue shop just time to learn ten words, these are the words we recommend.
down the road towards Kutchan, is another
option that offers smaller queues and a larger 1. Sumimasen すみません I’m sorry, excuse me, thank you
range of international products. This magic word brings forgiveness... and beer! Use it when you accidentally bump
into someone in the queue for the lifts or inadvertently ski in front of them. It
Kutchan has shopping covered works well with a nod of the head and a guilty look on your face. ‘Sumimasen’ is
Several specialty stores in Kutchan may also also used to get someone’s attention and can be used to get another round of
come in handy when you wish to expand from drinks at an izakaya.
the stock in Seicomart or Lawson. Best Denki
stocks all your technical needs from memory 2. Doumo どうも thank you, hi
sticks and external hard drives to heaters and There are many ways to express gratitude in Japanese –
fans. M-Pocket has imported groceries, ‘doumo’ is the simplest, with only two syllables, so why not
specialising in imported alcohol. Homac shelves start with that? When they hand over your goods at
basically every household product known to man, Seicomart or Lawson, smile, nod and say, ‘doumo’. The next
while Max Value is your best option as far as big step up from ‘doumo’ is ‘arigatou’ or ‘doumo arigatou’.
supermarket chains go. The ¥100 Shop stocks cheap
groceries, stationery and more priced around – you 3. Douzo どうぞ here you are, go ahead
guessed it – ¥100. There are no pharmacies or When you’re handing your new friend the drink you’ve just
stationery stores in Hirafu, but several in Kutchan, bought them or motioning them to start eating the food that’s just been delivered
such as the Tsuruha Drug. The Co-Op, next to Kutchan to your table, say, ‘douzo’. If you arrive at the ticket gates at the same time as
Station, is both a department store and supermarket. someone else, motion for them to go first and say, ‘douzo’. If someone does this
for you, go ahead and say, ‘doumo’.
For your information:
The Niseko Grand Hirafu Welcome Centre at the main 4. Ohayou おはよう good morning
annupuri village
bus stop in Hirafu parking and the Hirafu Safety Use ‘ohayou’ to greet people before noon. Say it to the hotel staff, the bus driver,
Information Centre next door to the Seicomart have a the ticket staff… and random strangers in the gondola queue if you’re feeling
wide range of brochures and transport information and friendly. It’s good form to say it loudly and full of energy! Adding ‘gozaimasu’
can also help with accommodation in case you've arrived makes it a bit more formal.
without a booking.
Meanwhile, the Kutchan Tourist Information Centre, 5. Hai はい yes
located on Eki-mae Dori opposite the Best Denki, provides Useful for answering easy questions and confirming orders. Are you a
an excellent English-speaking service for visitors. They can snowboarder? ‘Hai’. Table for two? ‘Hai’. ‘Hai’ is rather formal, try using ‘un’ when
be contacted on 0136 22 1121. talking with friends – but stick to ‘hai’ if a police officer is asking you questions.

6. Onegaishimasu お願いします please

Use this when ordering or requesting something. ‘Biiru onegaishimasu’ means

Stay safe... Walking on icy roads and footpaths:

Niseko's footpaths and roads can be sometimes like an
ice skating rink – especially after a night-time freeze
follows a daytime melt. Joggers or sneakers from home
just won't cut it, so it's a good idea to invest in a pair of
snow boots with plenty of tread (gumboots will also do
the job, and keep your feet dry), or failing that a pair of
snow cleats or spikes that you can clip onto your shoes
(which you can buy from any number of ski stores in town).
Other tips we can give you are: for balance, don't walk
with hands in your pockets so you can brace yourself for a
fall – wear gloves to keep your hands warm instead; take
smaller steps; and don't carry heavy loads – if you fall, throw
goods in the air and protect yourself, not your goods. It should
go without saying, but don't slide down slippery, steep sections
of ice to show off!
Also, when crossing the road, factor in that the roads are icy
and slippery and that it will take cars longer to stop for you.
Walking or parking under roofs:
During your stay in Niseko, you may notice snow falling from roofs.
This may look impressive, but can be very dangerous – notice the thud
when the load hits the ground. Niseko gets massive amounts of snow
during winter, and despite its cute fluffy appearance, it’s very heavy.
Believe it or not, snow sliding from rooftops kills people in this part of the
world, and can seriously damage cars.
Ski/boarding on roads and footpaths
It may seem fun and so much quicker and easier than walking, but skiing or
boarding home from the hill can be one of the silliest things you can do in
Niseko. Because the roads don’t have as much snow on them, and generally a
lot of ice, your skis or board won’t react like they do on the
mountain. So where on the hill you might be able to stop within
a couple of metres before hitting that beginner skier who’s just
veered wildly in front of you, on the road, instead of stopping
you could very easily find yourself skidding underneath a bus
that’s just pulled out in front of you. For the drivers, it's hard
enough driving in the snowy, icy, white-out conditions without
having to worry about dodging out of control skiers and
boarders. Please, keep your riding on the hill!
Driving on icy roads:
Niseko is well serviced by inter-resort buses, which are the
safest, cheapest and easiest mode of transport in the area.
These resort buses are free for mountain pass holders. There are
also regular buses into Kutchan. But if you want to drive, make
sure you drive to the conditions and always be in control. Icy,
snowy, white-out conditions can be a nightmare to drive in.
Every driver here will be able to tell frightening stories about
completely losing control of their car on 'black ice'. For a
detailed feature on how to drive safely in Niseko, refer to your
copy of Powderlife Issue 13’s Niseko Survival Guide, or find it
online at www.powderlife.com/_issues/powderlife13web.pdf.
Don't leave bars alone
If you're going drinking, make sure you leave the bar with
someone else and try not to walk home alone. Also make sure
you rug up and stay warm. People have been known to fall asleep
in the snow on the way home after going out drinking in Niseko.
This season's case of a tourist going missing under these
circumstances have reaffirmed these dangers, so please do the
right thing by yourself, and your friends. T
beer please. If you go to a restaurant and can’t read the menu, try pointing at
things that look tasty and saying, ‘kore onegaishimasu’ (this please). ‘Kudasai’
also means please, but is a little bit less polite.
7. Kanpai かんぱい cheers!
You deserve a drink after a hard day on the slopes! Before you start drinking raise
your glass and say, ‘kanpai!’. Before eating, press your hands together in front of
you and say, ‘itadakimasu’.
8. Oishii おいしい delicious, yummy, tasty
After you’ve said ‘itadakimasu’ and started eating, the next think you’ll probably
want to say is ‘oishii’. This is the most common word for describing food. Boys can
also use ‘umai’.
9. Kawaii かわいい cute, nice, pretty
If you’re a female in a shop you can use this word to describe almost everything
that you like. ‘Kawaii’ is also the perfect word to use to compliment people on
anything from their hairstyle to their boots. Warning: guys can say this word to girls,
but a guy saying it to another guy is a bit weird.
10. Saikou さいこう great, awesome, wicked
How was the powder snow this morning? ‘Saikou!’ Do you like Niseko? ‘Niseko Saikou!’
Since this magazine can’t talk, your best bet is to find a Japanese person and
ask them to say the words and repeat after them. Then buy them a beer :)
Keen to learn more?
There are lots more of tdes's Japanese lessons at www.powderlife.com/
japanese. And be sure to join a tdes Japanese lesson when you arrive in Niseko.
Cost: ¥1000. For time and location details visit www.thedailyenglishshow.com

24 powderlife ISSUE 18 global edition 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com global edition 2009 ISSUE 18 powderlife 25
 niseko powder guide T how to
By Matthew Thomas

Niseko powder 101

THERE are basically three levels of skiers and snowboarders –
beginners, intermediates and advanced – and the super-soft, pillowy powder that covers
the mountains of Niseko literally provides the ultimate skiing conditions for all three.
Thanks to the almost daily powder top ups, Niseko GEAR
usually has a very soft base and is a terrific place to Skis/board Skiers, the fatter your skis, the easier
learn to ski or snowboard – the inevitable falls are you'll find skiing in powder, over 90cm under foot is a
generally forgiving, as opposed to punishing, like you'll good guide. For boarders, the longer the board and HOW TO SKI/BOARD POWDER
find on the rock-hard icy bases in many other resorts narrower the tail, the easier it is to keep the nose up Start out slow Firstly, test out the powder just off the
around the world. Meanwhile, for the advanced, the and the less rear leg burn. Look for a board with some groomers to get a feel for it, before venturing further
deep powder is now world famous in skiing circles. reverse camber (rocker) to help it float. Also, set your out off-piste into the really deep stuff where you
This article has been written mainly for bindings back as far as possible. could get stuck.
intermediates that are confident on the groomed runs Lean back: Without putting yourself off-balance, you
and are ready to venture into the glorious off-piste. But Powder skirts should lean back slightly to ensure your nose/tips are
there is something here for everyone – many beginners A matching jacket and kept out of the powder.
are likely to be intermediates by the end of their first pants combo with a Feel the flow: When riding fresh powder as a
week, and there may be a few little gems in here that powder skirt that clips beginner, it can be best to not perform too many fast,
even hardcore skiers and boarders may find handy for together will stop snow drastic turns. Just go with the flow, stay balanced and
their Niseko deep powder experience. Pow pow! getting in. Also handy is enjoy some smooth, slow, drawn-out turns.
a sleeve skirt, which stops Follow those tracks: If you hit a flat patch, to save
PREPARATION powder getting in to your yourself having to push, skate or hike your way out,
Before the start of your season or holiday, it's a great sleeves and gloves. sometimes it can be a good idea to ride in
idea to work on your fitness and strength – your body Face mask You may look someone's tracks.
will thank you later! Riding powder is without doubt a like Hannibal Lecter but Avoid falling over: This may seem abundantly
full-body workout, at the end of the day you'll feel like a good face mask will stop obvious, but you'll learn this over time because it's
you've had a hard workout in the gym. The fitter you those cold, Siberian winds just so darn hard to get back up!
are, the more time you'll be able to spend on the from freezing your cheeks.
mountain. Doing exercises to strengthen your legs and Helmet You can be shredding through powder at top Now you know the theory, it’s time to get over
improve your fitness is one of the best ways to prevent speed then rip a turn only to see nothing but fluffy here and practice. But be warned… you’re about
injuries. Squats and cycling are great ideas. For a powder. This is when trees come out of nowhere, and to inherit a lifelong powder addiction that has no
detailed snow-training regime go to www.powderlife. they don't move – it's best wear a helmet. These days known cure. Welcome to Niseko! T
powder_life_final.qxd 8/4/09 10:06 Page 1
com/magazine/last-word-on-health/preparation. snow helmets look pretty cool and are super warm.

www.jnto.go.jp

Maiko: Colin Sinclair

Japan - a powder paradise ski destination
plus a whole lot more
Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO)
is the best place for travel-related information
on Japan. So if you are planning a trip, visit us
at www.jnto.go.jp to contact your local JNTO
office.We have all you need to know and you
cool

japan
can request a FREE information pack.

Fusion with Tradition

www.powderlife.com global edition 2009 ISSUE 18 powderlife 27

 phone directory T directory
Area code 0136 omitted from contact numbers below.
Country code for Japan is 81.
Kumagoro
くまごろう
Delis, food outlets
23 3381 [MAP B3] Lawson Hirafu
Restaurants, Grandpapa
グランパパ
Landmark Deli
くまごろう
ローソン
23-1230 [MAP C2]
Rosso Rosso
cafes and eateries 23 2244 [MAP B3] 23 4285 [MAP E2]
ロッソロッソ M-Pocket Kutchan
Graubunden Loaf Lounge 21 7100 [MAP B3] M-ポケット
A-Bu-Cha グラウビュンデン ローフラウンジ Casual steak house with a 22-1070 [MAP Kutchan F7]
阿武茶 23 3371 [MAP E4] 22 1022 [Kutchan] contemporary flavour. Juicy, Niseko Wine Supply
22 5620 [MAP C2] tender wagyu and Kobe beef, ニセコウアインサプライ090
Specialities variety of imported wines. 6875 5931 [MAP XX]
B’s Café and Bar Buta don ¥850
ビーズ　カフェ＆バー Tempura Set ¥1350 Seicomart Hirafu
22 1480 [MAP D1] Sashimi ¥1350
Tendon ¥950 セイコマート
23-3271 [MAP C2]
Hana Jizoh Bakery Maru
Sekka Deli
花地蔵 まる
セッカデリ
23 0331 [MAP F4] 22 5020 [MAP E3]
21 3088 [MAP B2]
Amazing sweet and savoury Traditional Japanese ‘donburi’
Sekka Deli Cafe
breads and pastries. Must try! restaurant. 11:30am-2pm/5- Sekka Landmark Deli
Bang Bang セッカデリカフェ
Get the free village shuttle to 11pm. Pick up available. セッカランドマーク
バンバン 21 3088 [MAP B2]
bus stop 27. Reservation required 23 4285 [MAP E2]
22 4292 [MAP C1] House-made produce using
Owner Masanobu Saito local ingredients, cheeses, Sekka Teca Wine Shop
chooses the best ingredients Hirafu Fleur Mina Mina meats, wines. Breakfast to セッカテカワインショプ
in Japan. One of Hirafu’s 創作料理ヒラフール ミナミナ dinner, dine in or take away. 21 3088 [MAP B2]
most popular izakayas. 23 3306 [MAP E1] 23 4771 [MAP D2]

Barunba
Ichimura Soba
蕎麦屋　いちむら
Mokoraya
もこらや
Services
バルンバ 23 0603 [MAP F3] 090 8279 0598 [MAP F3]
090 8907 9399 [MAP B2] if… Café Mozart
Niseko Rusutsu
Sapporo Hokkaido
カフェ　イフ モーツァルト Backcountry Black
Menu Selections 22 4770 [MAP B3] 090 2699 6387 [MAP E4] Sekka Dining Diamond Tours
Salmon pizza 1300 セッカダイニング
VenisonHamburg1250 Jam Café Bar Nami Chan Chi 21 5022 [MAP B2]
Pasta 1000~
ジャム（カフェバー） 波ちゃん家 Black Diamond Tours
Buffalo wings 600 Experience the taste of Hok- ブラック　ダイアモンド　ツアー
23 0700 [MAP D2] 21 2258 [Kutchan] kaido in style at Sekka Dining. 090-2054-8687
Black Diamond Lodge Restaurant International fusion cuisine
Japanese Kitchen Bouken Nathan’s Hotdogs Let us privately guide you
ブラックダイモンドロッジレストラン using Hokkaido ingredients.
冒険家族 ネイサンズ　ホットドッグ through Hokkaido’s best
0136 44 1144 [Higashiyama]
22 3759 21 3121 [MAP E3] powder stashes and out of the
Just 300m ski or bus from
way places.
the Hilton Niseko Villlage. Java Bar and Café Niseko Gourmet Shokusai Hirafu
Check out or great Western ジャバ　バー＆カフェ ニセコグルメ 食彩　比羅夫
and Japanese menu. 090 2871 6781 [MAP D3] 080 5584 1313 22 1105 [MAP C1] Boot Solutions
Niseko Pizza Shunsai ブートソルションズ
Blo Blo Bar ニセコ　ピザ 旬彩 221-025 [MAP D2]
ブロー　ブロー　バー 21 6888 [MAP D2] 23 1882 [Kutchan]
22-12-69 [MAP D1] Paddy McGintys Slalom
Call for an
appointment or
Bouken Kazoku パディーマッギンティーズ スラローム just drop in.

冒険家族 JoJo’s Café and Bar 55 8020 [MAP C2] 22 1105 [MAP C1] info@nisekomassage.
com
22 3759 ジョジョズ（カフェ＆バー）
23 2093 [MAP E3] Spur Chinese Restaurant
Chidori A 13 cm Original Burger, po- シュプール（中華レストラン） Niseko Massage
千鳥 tato gnocchi and fries from 22 1105 [MAP C1] ニセコマサージ
23 2831 [MAP F4] local potatoes. Generous 22 0399 [MAP B2]
Tsubara Tsubara Professional Sports and
portions of food つばらつばら
Curry Goya Relaxation Massage in Five
カレー小屋 Paul’s Cafe and Bar 23 1116 [MAP E4] Star Luxury. Highly qualified
23 3688 [MAP F4] ポールズカフェーアンドバー
Jyuu Okonomiyaki massage therapists
090 9083 6764 [MAP C3]
Downtown じゅう Specialising in Belgian beer
ダウンタウン 44 2336 [Higashiyama] and rotisserie chicken. More Niseko Photography
23 3354 [MAP B3] Kakashi than 30 beers on tap or in ニセコフォトグラフィー
Dragon Wine and Food Bar かかし bottles. Belgian Waffles. 22 5764 [MAP D2]
ドラゴン　ワイン＆バー 23 2622 [MAP D2] Wild Bill’s
21 7700 [MAP B2] ワイルドビルズ
Kame Payoka 22 5652 [MAP D2] Call for an
亀 パヨカ Come for dinner, stay for
appointment or
just drop in. Ph.
22 0339 [MAP E3] 22 0117 [MAP E1] drinks. Hirafu’s most popular 0136 22 0399

Piccolo House bar and Tex-Mex cuisine

ピッコロハウス（カフェ＆バー） restaurant. See you there! Niseko Physio
23 0311 [MAP E2] ニセコフィジオ
EN in-house fine dining 22 0399 [MAP B2]
Raku Izakaya Yawaraya Your English speaking sports
宴　インハウス　ファイン　ダイニング
楽　居酒屋 やわらや injury centre in Hirafu. Aus-
55 8100 [MAP D3] Kamimura 22 6638 [MAP C3] 23 3810 [MAP C3] tralian trained winter sports
Relax while our in-house カミムラ
chef does all the work. Rin Izakaya Youtei Yakiniku physiotherapists.
21 2288 [MAP D2]
Your fine dining solutions.“ Niseko’s premier dining りん　居酒屋 焼肉ようてい
experience. A mix of Japanese 22 1444 [MAP B3] 22 0109 [MAP E1] Skybus スカイバス
seasonal cuisine, blended Senchou 1 Izakaya Yuki Bar and Café 22 2108 [MAP D2]
with classic French technique. 船長（居酒屋） 雪場カフェ Sapporo office 011 788 4994
Fujizushi Sushi
ふじ鮨 22 2001 [MAP B3] 22 0234 [MAP D2]
23 2661 [MAP B3] Kila Senchou 2 Seafood Izakaya
Gentem Café 姫羅 海山屋　（海鮮居酒屋）
玄天カフェ 070 6646 4715 [MAP C2] 22 5454 [MAP C2] Live room availability,
23 3154 [MAP B1] Komekichi Onigiri Café Yummy’s
book your accommodation now!
米吉（おにぎりかふぇ） ヤミーズ
22 1105 [MAP F1] 21 2239 [MAP C3]
www.powderlife.com/niseko-accommodation/

www.powderlife.com global edition 2009 ISSUE 18 powderlife 29

 directory T local information

AIRPORT Sapporo.......................................011-222-7111 stand in a door frame and watch for falling objects. A privately run orthopaedic clinic providing
New Chitose Airport 0123 23 0111 Otaru...........................................0134-22-0771 The safest places are in large open areas such as more time efficient service than the hospital.
www.new-chitose-airport.jp/language/english Kutchan station..........................0136-22-1310 parking lots of ski areas, schools, parks etc. Your X-ray, medical dispensary. 1-4, South 3-jo West 3,
New Chitose was opened in 1991 and became Niseko station.............................0135-44-2104 accommodation is likely to have an emergency Kutchan 0136-22-1386
Japan’s first 24-hour airport in 1994. It services earthquake pack.
INTER-RESORT TRANSPORT
Sapporo and Niseko with direct international
A shuttle bus connects the Grand Hirafu, EMERGENCIES INTERNET
flights from various Asian cities and Australia.
The Tokyo to Chitose route is the busiest domestic Higashiyama and Annupuri ski areas. There is a Police .........................................................110 Most accommodation in Niseko will have somew
route in the world. It is the largest airport in Japanprivate company bus which costs ¥500 and a free Ambulance and Fire..................................119 form of internet access. Downtown Café has an
by land mass. shuttle bus which is included in your all mountain Emergency Interpretation.........03-5285-8185 internet terminal and there are wireless hotspots
pass. See the timetable on the course map for Japan English Helpline (nationwide across town. Try A-Bu-Cha, Downtown Café,
Getting From New Chitose To Niseko more information. If you have a 12-point ticket, emergency assistance)...............0570-000-911 Grandpapa, Java Bar and Curry Goya.
On arrival at Chitose international airport, visitors one point per trip is needed. Others need ¥500 for ETIQUETTE Mobile Phones
not on a full travel package have a few options to adult and ¥300 for child per ride. Japan is perhaps the most courteous country in 3G phones only will work in Japan. You can hire
complete this last leg of their journey to Niseko the world. Say excuse me (sumimasen) and thank a phone from IXSM travel 0136 21 5855 or Go
and back. Although the trip is only 110kms, due Kutchan Night Bus you (arrigato) regularly. Do not eat while walking, Mobile 03 4496 4344. For longer term stays the
to icy roads and no direct train route, it takes two A free bus runs from Grand Hirafu ski area to or wear your shoes on tatami mats or in most three big carriers have stores in Kutchan:
to three hours. Kutchan station every night. Step out from Hirafu
village and enjoy shopping, eating, and drinking indoor residences. A bow can be used to say thank au................................................0136-21-5616
BUS in Kutchan. you, sorry, hello, goodbye and excuse me. It is Soft Bank....................................0136-21-2588
The bus is the most convenient and commonly impolite not to return a bow. The deeper the bow, NTT DoCoMo...............................0136-21-6868
the more polite it becomes.
used form of transport from the airport. Buses Taxis TELECOMMUNICATIONS
depart about every 30 minutes from the airport to Kutchan hire...............................0136 22 1212 EATING Domestic Calls
Niseko. They take about three hours, including a Misora hire.................................0136 22 1171 At most casual dining Japanese restaurants Green and grey public phones take coins or pre
rest stop halfway and a dropoff at Rusutsu. ¥2,300 Niseko hire.................................0136 44 2635 (Izakaya) meals are ordered for the table and paid telephone cards, available from convenience
– one way and ¥3,850 for a round trip.
AIRLINES shared. You will often receive a small snack with stores or at some phone card dispensers in some
The buses disembark at six designated bus stops your first drink which may or may not be billed. booths. Local calls don’t require the “0136”, unless
within the greater Niseko United Resort.  You will ANA.............................................0120 029 222
Rest your chopsticks across the top of the bowl or made from a mobile phone.
find two different points to get off at each of the British Airways............................03 3570 8657 plate – never leave them sticking out of the rice! Directory Assistance
main ski areas.  Cathay Pacific.............................03 5159 1700
Dial 104 (toll call) and then ask for an English
China Airlines.............................03 5520 0333 DRINKING
JAL...............................................0120 255 971 speaker. You must know the location and name
Whiteliner Buses It is tradition in Japan to pour from a bottle into to get a number.
www.whitelinerbuses.com.........011-242-2040 Korean Air...................................0088 21 2001 your guest’s small glass regularly. Kampai is the
Qantas.........................................0120 207 020 International Calls
Chuo Buses Japanese word for cheers – use it readily! Also International direct dial can be made using any of
www.chuo-bus.co.jp/kikan/ski...011-231-0500 Singapore Airlines......................03 3213 1174 please remember to stay well behaved when
Thai Airways...............................03 3503 3311 the following prefixes, 001 (KDDI), 0041 (ITJ) and
Donan buses under the influence. Poor behaviour by drunken 0061 (IDC). They will cost you.
www.donanbus.co.jp/ski............0123-46-5701 United Airlines............................0120 114 466 Australians in Niseko has received national
Hokkaido Resort Liner BANKING media attention in Japan. Remember you are an Calling Cards
www.access-n.jp/ski_info.html..011-219-4411 Yes, we all know Hirafu needs an international ambassador for your country at all times while Brastel
DOOR TO DOOR TRANSFER ATM! Until then, use the post office in Kutchan you are abroad. The most popular international calling card
Skybus offers a door to door transfer service from open 8.45am to 7pm on weekdays, 9am to 5pm TIPPING service is available in Niseko. Known for its flat 24
the airport to Niseko or Sapporo. Chitose to Niseko on weekends and holidays. You can also withdraw Although tipping is not generally done in Japan, hour rates as low ¥6 per minute to Australia from
from ¥9000 return per person, or better deals for from the 24-hour Citibank ATM at 3F Chitose some restaurants and bars will include a service any type of phone using a non-toll free access
private shuttle transfers – ¥30,000 one way for airport and the 7-Eleven near Kutchan station. fee for groups. number. Brastel has excellent customer service
up to 5 passengers, ¥40,000 one way for up to Most of the cards with Cirrus and PLUS marks available in over 20 languages and the card is
9 passengers, or ¥50,000 one way for up to 14 are accepted at these places, but round cornered GARBAGE available at several locations in Hirafu and can be
passengers. Go to www.skybus-jp.com/index.html cards are not. Hokkaido has some of the strictest garbage recharged at IXSM travel or by your credit card.
separation rules in the world. Please try to follow New subscribers get five free minutes. Toll-free:
CAR RENTAL CREDIT CARDS
them, follow the signs on the bins to the letter. 0120 659 534. www.brastel.com
If you are comfortable driving in the snow, renting Japan is still a predominantly cash society. Most
small bars and restaurants in Niseko do not accept Onsen (Hot Spring Bath)
can be convenient as it allows you to take a trip Kazak
to Kutchan to stock up the fridge before returning credit cards, but larger hotels, restaurants and Buy a ticket, strip down – no swim suits allowed, Rates from ¥20 for one minute to Australia. The
the car. One way hire from Chitose to Hirafu is hotels often do. keep your clothes in a basket, your valuables in a kazak card is the highest selling card in the Niseko
about ¥7,000 for six – 24 hours. Nippon Rentacar, American Express.......................0120 020 120 locker. Take a little towel only into the onsen with area. Kazak card is available from your hotel front
Mazda and Orix have offices in the Niseko area. MasterCard..................................03 5728 5200 you, wash and scrub your body well before you go desk, Piz Gloria convenience store and from most
If you want a car only in Niseko, you can contact Visa Card...................................00531 44 0022 in to the bath. You can fill your towel with cold inbound tour operators.
Black Diamond Lodge in Higashiyama. water before you enter the onsen. Do not put your 0123 36 4000
CURRENCY towel into the onsen water – leave it on your head
Mazda Rent a Car : Chitose airport 0123-45-8756, You can exchange your money into Yen at the and squeeze the cold water out when you get too POST OFFICES
Niseko 011-231-0118 (drop off and pick up in bank, post office, and most inbound travel hot (it’s best not to bring drinks into the onsen). Look for the red “T” symbol. Stamps and the post
Niseko only available on weekdays) operators. Please bring your passport – it may be After bathing rinse off under the shower. Finally office box are at Piz Gloria convenience store. For
Nippon Rent a Car : Chitose airport 0123-26-0919, more convenient to change with your hotel. You dry your body well before you walk back into the other services you will need to go to the post office
Niseko 0136-43-2929 can also exchange USD travellers cheques at banks changing room. in Kutchan.
or at Kutchan post office.
Orix Rent a Car : Chitose airport  0123-22-0543, MEDICAL SERVICES TOURIST INFORMATION
Izumikyo (Hirafu)  0134-25-0543,  DRIVING  At present there is no doctor in Hirafu and Kutchan Tourism Information centre
Black Diamond Lodge : 0136-44-1144 When driving on icy roads the number one Niseko Physio is the only medical service Located on Eki-mae Dori opposite Best Denki, the
TAXI thing to remember is to drive slowly. Make sure available in walking distance of the slopes. For newly opened tourist information centre provides
A standard taxi from Chitose to Hirafu will cost the windscreen and back and side windows fractures or non musculo-skeletal cases you an excellent English speaking service for visitors.
about ¥30,000, but you may not fit all your gear are thoroughly de-iced on the outside and de- will need to go into Kutchan. If you can’t speak They dispense brochures and can help you book
in it. Prai Taxi charges ¥20,000 for a small taxi (3-4 steamed on the inside before setting off – don’t Japanese you will need to bring a translator accommodation. ph: 0136 22 1121
people) or ¥33,000 for a jumbo (8-10 people). Call simply clear a ‘porthole’ to look through. Maintain Niseko Physio
011 207 5166 or www.prai.co.jp. at least a five-second gap between you and the Located on the second floor of Australia The Niseko Grand Hirafu Welcome Centre
vehicle in front. Use a high gear to avoid wheel House, staffed with Australian physiotherapy At the main bus stop in Hirafu parking lot the
TRAIN spin, but take care not to let your speed creep up. graduates from North Sydney Orthopaedic Welcome Centre has a wide range of brochures
This is the most scenic way to get to Niseko. Brake gently to avoid locking the wheels. Never and Sports Medicine Centre (Australia’s leading and transport information. They can also help
Unfortunately there is no direct train from brake if the vehicle skids, instead, ease off the knee clinic). Primary care also available. Sports with booking accommodation if you’ve arrived
Chitose to Kutchan station (the closest major accelerator and steer slightly into the direction of injuries, back and neck pain, braces and taping. without a booking – you risk taker you. 0136 22
station). All trains run through Sapporo and the skid until you gain control.  Appointments preferred but not essential. 0109.
Otaru. The journey takes about three hours www.NisekoPhysio.com Telephone 0136 22 0399.
ELECTRICITY WALKING ON ICY ROADS
and the cost is about ¥2,600 for an unreserved Kutchan Kousei Hospital
seat. If you want a reserved seat, you can ask Standard voltage is 100v AC. You can use many The major hospital servicing the area is located About 1/3 of all injuries in Hirafu are caused by
at JR information desk, B1 Chitose airport. higher watt items without a problem but higher 4 blocks from the main intersection of Kutchan. people falling on the street. Wear shoes with good
www2.jrhokkaido.co.jp/global/index.html wattage devices such as hair dryers may not run They have an X-ray, a slightly ageing MRI and grip, buy and attach rubber sole covers with metal
on full power. Plugs are the flat two blades type. medical dispensary. No appointment necessary, studs. Take small steps, walk slowly and never run,
The train schedules are subject to change so Many recent buildings have 240v with Australian orthopaedics cases taken in the morning only. It keep both hands out of your pockets and free for
it is best to call the numbers below or visit: shaped plugs. will take you most of the day. Address: North 4 balance. Walking with two ski stocks is a great idea
and protect yourself instead of the objects being
www.japanrail.com. EARTHQUAKES East 1-2, Kutchan-cho Tel: 0136-22-1141
carried.
Airport.........................................0123-45-7011 In the event of an earthquake, stay out of elevators, Ueda Orthopedic Clinic

30 powderlife ISSUE 18 global edition 2009 www.powderlife.com