Adiyaman

64 A G UI D E T O S O UT HE A S T E R N A NA T O L I A
Mount Nemrut
ADIYAMANing 11/15/07 7:50 PM Page 64
65 A DI Y A MA N
Adyaman
Adyaman at a Glance
The province of Adyaman is at the western end of Southeastern
Anatolia, at the crossroads of major routes to Asia, Europe and
Africa. The high hills in the north of the province gradually
slope down towards the south. Adyaman is covered in a wide
variety of rivers and streams, including the mighty Euphrates.
Many of the areas formerly on the banks of the Euphrates were
flooded by the reservoir of the Atatrk Dam. In the 7th century,
the Umayyad commander Mansur bn-i Cavene constructed a
fortress in the center of Adyaman as a defense against Byzantine
attacks. As a result, the Ottomans referred to the city as Hsn-
Mansur, meaning Mansurs Fortress. In 1926, its name was
officially changed to Adyaman. Adyaman has hosted many
civilizations throughout its history, all of which had a profound
impact on its culture and traditions. Adyaman boasts many
stunning Commagene monuments, the most famous of which are
on Mount Nemrut.
Climate
The Anti-Taurus Mountains cut
through Adyaman from west to
east, creating completely
different climates in the northern
and southern regions of the
province. The mountainous north
has dry, cool summers and wet,
cold winters, while the south
enjoys dry, warm summers, and
wet but warm winters. The
Atatrk Dam Reservoir has
increased humidity levels in the
region and made the climate.
The Crown
Imperial
Known locally as the Crying
Bride, Hnkar Tulip and Upside
Down Tulip, the Crown Imperial
(Fritillaria mperialis) grows in
Southeastern Anatolia, blooming
in spring and fall. Another
variety of the flower, the
Fritillaria Persica, is also native
to Adyaman. Known locally as
the Adyaman Tulip, the plant
has mauve flowers that bloom in
April. Only cultivated plants are
sold, as the trade of wildflowers
is strictly prohibited.
Petroleum
reserves
Petroleum reserves were
discovered in Adyaman in 1971,
and the province soon became
an important center of the oil
industry. The Turkish Petroleum
Corporation operates 14
production plants with a total of
156 oil wells in the province of
Adyaman. Crude oil production
in the region is run by the
private sector.
67 A DI Y A MA N A T A GL A NC E
Nemrut Da
National Park
The 13,850-hectare national
park is home to monuments built
by the Commagene kings that
ruled the region from the first
century BC to 72 AD. The area
was declared a national park in
1989, and is on the UNESCO
World Heritage List. The main
sights in the national park
include the monuments on Mount
Nemrut, the Eski Kahta Fortress,
Arsameia, and the Cendere
Bridge, which was built by a
Roman legion.
Provincial Population:
810,260 according to the 2000 census
City Center Population: 282,510
Altitude: 669 meters ABOVE SEA LEVEL
Area: 7,614 square kilometers
Districts and Villages: 9 districts and 406 villages
Neighboring Provinces:
Malatya to the north, Gaziantep to the southwest,
Kahramanmara to the west, anlurfa to the
southeast and Diyarbakr to the east
ID CARD
The reservoir is also home to
trout farms.
The Atatrk
Dam and
Reservoir
The Euphrates is the lifeblood
of the Southeastern Anatolia,
including Adyaman, covering
180 km of the province. The
total length of Adyamans
nine rivers and streams
combined comes to 436 km.
The reservoir of the Atatrk
Dam covers almost the entire
eastern section of the
province, and has had a
major impact on not only the
climate but also the social
and cultural life of the
province. The town of Kahta
is well on its way to becoming
a popular holiday destination,
and water sports and annual
sailing regattas are held on
the lake.
Agriculture
Agriculture is the main industry
in Adyaman. The main crops are
wheat, barley, chickpeas, lentils,
cotton, tobacco, pistachios and
grapes.
The reservoir flooded almost all of Samsat, a former district of the
province, and the majority of its dislocated residents were forced to
move to Adyaman. As a result, new residential areas featuring modern
housing have sprung up since the 1990s.
69 A DI Y A MA N A T A GL A NC E
The Kahta River
A head of Zeus on Mount
Nemrut
71 T HE HI S T ORY OF A DI Y A MA N
Archeological research has shown
that Adyaman has been settled since
Paleolithic times, making it one of the
oldest settlements in Anatolia. The
ruins at Gritille Hyk and Samsat
reveal that Adyaman was also settled
in the Neolithic Era, Copper Age and
Bronze Age. Set between the
Euphrates and the Taurus
mountains, this region has
been ruled by many tribes
and states during its
history. After the collapse
of the Hittite Empire,
Adyaman served as the
capital of the kingdom of
Kummuh for an extended period.
The area was then ruled in succession
by the Assyrians, Meds and Persians.
With the arrival of Alexander the Great
in Anatolia, the region was ruled for a
time by the Macedonians. In the first
century BC, while Adyaman was
under Seleucid rule, the local satrap or
governor Ptolemaeus decided to revolt
and established the independent
kingdom of Commagene. The
Commagene kings had a profound
impact on the region. In 72 AD,
Adyaman became a part of the Roman
Empire, and later came under
Byzantine rule. Muslim Arabs
conquered Adyaman in the
7th century. With the arrival
of the Turks in Anatolia,
the region was fought
over by the Turks and
Arabs, finally becoming a
permanent part of the
Ottoman Empire in 1516
when it was conquered by Sultan
Selim I. When the Republic of Turkey
was established, Adyaman was placed
under the jurisdiction of Malatya, and
was declared a province of Turkey in
1954. Adyaman is best known for the
ruins on Mount Nemrut, and for its
Roman structures.
The History of Adyaman
The kingdom of Commagene was established
on the western bank of the Euphrates, and
consisted of what is today the province of
Adyaman, as well as part of Kahramanmara
and Gaziantep. This region includes two
important crossings over the Euphrates and
stands at the junction of many important roads.
The kings of Commagene traced their lineage
back to the Greeks and Persians; in fact,
Commagene is an ancient Greek word that
means community of genes. The kings of
Commagene created a unique synthesis of
Anatolian, Persian and Syrian traditions and
Hellenistic culture. The most important
Commagene kings were Ptolemaeus, Sames I,
Mithridates I and Antiochus I, who were
worshipped as gods by their people. The
capital, Samosata, was established by Sames;
located in the east of the province of Samsat,
the city is now submerged under the waters of
the reservoir. Other important Commagene
settlements were Arsameia ad Nymphaios and
Arsameia ad Euphrates. The Commagene
economy was based on trade and mining.
Following the death of Antiochus I,
Commagene became a semi-autonomous
kingdom within the Roman Empire. Most of
our knowledge regarding the kings of
Commagene has been gleaned by studying the
temple tomb of Antiochus I and surrounding
sacred ground on Mount Nemrut.
The Karaku
Tumulus
12 km north of Kahta
Built by Mithridates II in the
first century BC for his
mother Isias, sister Antiochia
and niece Aka, the tumulus
boasts four, nine-meter high
columns.
The Commagene Kingdom
The Karaku (blackbird) temple
tomb derives its name from a
black basalt statue set atop one
of the columns.
Arsameia Ad
Euphrates
(Gerger Fortress)
The village of Oymakl, Gerger
This settlement on the eastern
border of the Commagene
kingdom was the second
established by Arsames. Perched
on a steep hill overlooking the
Euphrates valley, Arsameia is
split into upper and lower
regions. The upper region
features a temple to a local
goddess.
Nymphaios
Arsameia (Eski
Kale)
The village of Kocahisar in
Kahta
Arsameia on the Nymphaion
was established by Arsames as
the summer capital of the
kings of Commagene, and was
considered sacred ground. A
stele and a rock inscription
can be seen on the
processional way to the south.
King Antiochus shaking
hands with Heracles
The Old Kahta
Fortress (Yeni Kale)
The village of Kocahisar in Kahta
An inscription in Arsameia
mentions fortifying walls on this
hill, but they have not survived.
The fortress was later used by
the Romans, but what we see
today dates mainly from the
Islamic era.
The tumulus and sacred ground on the
summit of Mount Nemrut are the most
spectacular Commagene monuments in the
area. The Commagene kingdom achieved its
zenith under Antiochus I, and the king
decided to build himself a temple tomb at the
summit of Mount Nemrut. The large statues
depicting Antiochus and a number of gods
that line the east and west terraces of the
tumulus, as well as the many sculptural reliefs
and inscriptions, are a stunning example of
the unique synthesis of Eastern and Western
culture achieved by the kings of Commagene.
Mount Nemrut
The terraces
There are three terraces near the
tumulus. The east and west
terraces are identical, each
featuring five seated statues
measuring 10 meters high. The
first statue is of Antiochus
himself, followed by statues of
seated gods. Carved in the
Greco-Persian style, each statue
is made from stone and weighs 7-
8 tons. The five statues of
Antiochus and the gods are
flanked on either side by a pair
of statues depicting a lion and an
eagle. The North Terrace is an
85-meter long processional way
that links the east and west
terraces. The half steles and
bases on the North Terrace
reveal that the temple tomb and
sacred ground was never actually
completed. The collapsed south
terrace can no longer be seen.
West Terrace
Arranged in the identical order
to the statues to the east, the
heads of the statues on the west
terrace are nevertheless in much
better condition. Sculptural
reliefs of Antiochus shaking
hands with the gods, and a lion
decorated with a horoscope
pattern can also be seen.
Antiochus considered himself on
a par with the gods, and often
chose to depict himself seated
beside or shaking hands with
them.
East Terrace
The terrace is home to statues
depicting eagles and lions as
well as Antiochus, Tyche, Zeus,
Apollo and Heracles,
inscriptions detailing Antiochus
legacy, sculptural reliefs of
dynastic figures, and a fire altar
beside a statue of a seated lion.
King
Antiochus I
Antiochus decreed that his
birthday should be
celebrated annually on
Mount Nemrut, and left
inscriptions describing in
minute detail the rites
surrounding the festivities: he
stated that plenty of incense
should be burned, animals be
sacrificed and food and wine
be served to the guests.
Mount Nemrut
Tumulus
Together with the mound at its
summit, Mount Nemrut, a part
of the Eastern Taurus
Mountains, measures 2206
meters above sea level. The
tumulus is literally a mound of
30,000 cubic meters of loose
stones measuring 50 meters
high. Although archeologists
have been digging here since
1881, they have yet to find the
tomb located inside the
tumulus.
The Lion Relief
This sculptural relief depicting a lion
features 19 stars scattered over its
base and on the body of the lion itself.
The lions chest is decorated with a
crescent moon and planetary
conjunction of Jupiter, Mercury and
Mars. It has been deduced that this
horoscope is a diagram of the
position of the sky on July 7, 62 BC.
Opinion is split on dates significance:
some say it was the date of Antiochus
coronation, others that it marks the
inauguration of the temples
construction.
77 S I GHT S E E I NG I N A DI Y A MA N
Museum
The Adyaman Museum
Mosques (Camii)
Grand (Ulu) Mosque
ar Mosque
Eskisaray Mosque
Kap Mosque
Yenipnar Mosque
Kurunlu Mosque
Church
The Church of St. Peter
and St. Paul
Forts (Kale)
Adyaman Fort
Besni Fort
Ancient Sights
The Ancient City of Perre
(Pirin)
The Sacred Ground at
Derik (Heroon)
Turu Rock Tombs
Caves (Maara)
Palanl Caves
Zey Caves
Gmkaya (Pala) Caves
Gksu Caves
Tumuli
Sofraz Tumuli
Dikilita (Sesnk)
Tumulus
Monuments
Malpnar Rock
Inscription
Haydaran Rock Relief
Adyaman
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The Adyaman
Museum
Atatrk Caddesi, Adyaman city
center
The museum exhibits works
found in and around the region
dating from the Paleolithic era
through the Neolithic, Copper,
Bronze and Iron Ages, as well as
Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine,
Seljuk and Ottoman pieces. In
addition, Late Hittite stone
steles, plus coins and mosaics
from the Commagene kingdom
are on display. Ethnographic
works are shown in a separate
hall.
Grand Mosque
Adyaman city center
Built during the reign of the
Dulkadiroullar (1137-1522),
the Grand Mosque has seen a
great deal of restoration.
According to an inscription on
the base of the minaret, the
building was completed in 1863,
and restored in 1902.
ar Mosque
Paraclar Pazar, Adyaman
Built by a gentleman named Hac
Abdulgani in 1550, this
rectangular mosque has ashlar
masonry walls that are supported
by buttresses.
Eskisaray
Mosque
Eskisaray, Adyaman
Built by brahim Pasha in 1736.
Kap Mosque
Kap, Adyaman
Inscriptions on the mosque tell
us it was built in 1768 and
restored in 1923.
Yenipnar
Mosque
Yenipnar Camii, Adyaman
An inscription on the base of the
minaret tells us that it was built
in 1720 by Hac Mahmut Atl.
Kurunlu
Mosque
The entrance to the Old Besni
Ruins
This square mosque was built by
Hac Zeyrek Pasha.
The Church of
St. Peter and St.
Paul
Mara, Adyaman city center
An inscription dated 1905 states
that this Syriac church dedicated
to St. Paul is an extremely old
structure. A registered building,
the church is still in use by
Adyamans few remaining
Syriac Christians.
Adyaman
Fortress
On a hill in the city center
The fortress was built in the 7th
century by the Ummayad
commander Mansur bn-i
Cavene as a defense against the
Byzantines. The fortress was
restored in the 8th century by the
Abbasids. Adyaman was long
known as Hsn- Mansur,
meaning Fortress of Mansur. The
fortifying walls are not original,
but date from a recent
restoration.
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The Grand
Mosque
Besni Fort
A piece from the Adyaman
Museum
Besni
Besni Fort
4 km south of Besni
Perched on a high, craggy peak,
this nigh inaccessible military
fortification is thought to date
from the Late Hittite period.
According to inscriptions on the
fort, various additions and
restorations were made in the
13th century, and later by the
Ottomans. Excavations inside the
fort have uncovered an arch,
column and domed rooms that
are thought to be the remains of
a marketplace and bathhouse.
The Ancient
City of Perre
(Pirin)
The village of Pirin, some 5 km
northeast of Adyaman
Since antiquity, the site of the
ancient city of Perre has been an
important junction of the roads
to Kahta, Samsat and Urfa. A
small settlement during the reign
of the kings of Commagene,
Perre experienced a golden age
under the Romans when it was
an important stopover for
travelers. The highlight of a trip
to Perre is visiting the over 200
rock tombs connected to each
other via passages. The tombs
are decorated with reliefs and
feature sarcophagi. Artifacts
found in the graves are on
display at the Adyaman
Museum.
The sacred site
at Derik
(Heroon)
10 km north of Cendere Bridge
in the Sincik district
This sacred site features a
vaulted tomb and two temples
surrounded by a wall, and is
thought to belong to a heroic
figure.
Turu Rock
Tombs
1 km west of the Adyaman-
anlurfa highway, 40 km from
Adyaman
A number of these Roman tombs
carved into the ground feature
reliefs at their entrances and on
their walls depicting religious
figures or portraits of the
deceased.
Palanl
Caves
The village of Palanl, 10 km
north of Adyaman
While the precise age of the
simple animal figures scratched
onto the cave walls is not
known, some researchers believe
that they date from the
Paleolithic era. Sadly, these
figures can no longer be seen.
The cave is a registered
archeological site. A dirt road
takes you as far as the village,
after which the caves are only
accessible by foot.
Zey Caves
Near the village of Zey, 7 km
from Adyaman
Accessed by foot from the
village, the caves are located on
the banks of a stream and are
somewhat hard to reach. The
caves are thought to have been
used as shelter by early
Christians. The Kitap and
Demirkale-1 caves are two-story
structures dug out of the rock.
Gmkaya
(Pala)
Caves
West of the village of
Gmkaya, 40km southwest of
Adyaman
This tunnel-like string of
numerous interconnected caves
stretches along the bank of the
Gksu River. Thought to date
from 150 BC, the caves were
used as shelter and feature
balconies, partitioned rooms and
wells. Access to the caves is via
a pathway that can only be
traversed one person at a time.
Gksu
Caves
These natural caves are set on a
bluff 40-50 meters above the
Gksu River. Of historic value
yet extremely hard to reach, the
majority of the caves are located
around the villages of Kzlin and
Sarkaya near Besni, and the
villages of Gmkaya and
Malpnar near Adyaman.
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The ancient city of Perre
The ancient city of Perre
The Sofraz
Tumulus
Sofraz
Tumuli
The town of gz (Sofraz)
in the Besni district
These two tumuli one
large and one small each
contain a burial chamber,
and date from the
Commagene period.
Dikilita
(Sesnk)
Tumulus
On Kzlda mountain in the
village of Zormaara in the
Besni district
This 5-6 meter high tumulus
bears a striking resemblance
to the Karaku Tumulus,
with double columns
standing at its south,
northeast and northwestern
corners. The reliefs and
animal statues that once
topped the columns now lie
scattered around the site. A
sculptural relief of a lion is
comparatively well
preserved. A sacred terrace
dating from the Commagene
Kingdom can also be seen.
Malpnar
Rock
Inscription
The hamlet of Malpnar,
some 35 km from Adyaman
This two-meter long, one-
meter wide Late Hittite
(900-600 BC) hieroglyphic
rock inscription carved onto
a natural rock face describes
the surrounding settlements.
Haydaran
Relief
The village of Tagedik, 17
km north of Adyaman
This sculptural relief shows
the Commagene King
Antiochus I shaking hands
with the Sun God Helios.
By depicting himself in such
a manner, Antiochus wished
to show his people that he
was on a par with the gods.
Rock tombs can also be
seen nearby.
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Gksu (Kzlin) Bridge
Between the villages of Gmkaya and Acin, near the small settlement
of Akpnar
This Roman bridge with a rock foundation is set at a narrow point of the
Gksu River. The bridge is in relatively good condition, apart from some
damage to the central arch.
Altnl Bridge
The village of Yolba, Glba
This four-arch, Seljuk bridge over the Gksu River is located on the
southeastern foothills of Karatepe Mountain. The bridge has one large
arch, plus three arches that gradually descend in size. The dry stone bridge
was constructed without any grout to bind the stones together, using a
technique known as cendere. The bridge remains in use to this day.
Vijne Bridge
amlca, Tut
This stunning bridge over the Gksu River was once on a caravanserai
route, and remains in use to this day.
The Bridges of Adyaman
Adyaman boasts over ten bridges spanning the Gksu and
Kahta rivers. Many of these historic bridges remain in use to
this day.
Other
Bridges
Other bridges in
Adyaman include the
Pirim Bridge in the
city center, the
Celladin Bridge in
Eski Besni, as well as
the Maaran
Bridge, Tabakhane
Bridge and Nazhatun
Bridge.
Cendere
Bridge
Northeast of the Karaku
Tumulus, Kahta
This bridge over the Kahta is
120 meters long and 7 meters
wide, with one large arch
measuring 30 meters high and
one small arch to the east.
Located at the narrowest point of
the river, the bridge is made of
92 large stone blocks. The dry
stone bridge was constructed
without any grout to bind it
together, using a technique
known as cendere. According
to an inscription on the bridge,
Emperor Septimus Severus had it
built in 198-200 by the Legio
XVI Flavia Firma Roman legion
at Samsat. The bridge was
dedicated to his wife, Julia
Domna, and featured a pillar at
each of its four corners to
commemorate the members of
his immediate family. The bridge
was specially built to withstand
earthquakes, and three of the
pillars stand to this day.
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Three pillars of the bridge
remain standing.
The Roman Emperor
Septimus Severus
Legio XVI Flavia Firma
The Legio XVI Flavia Firma was a Roman legion
established after the surrender of another legion
during a revolt in 69 AD. Rather than punishing the
disgraced soldiers who had surrendered, Emperor
Vespasian reconstituted them as a new legion and
transferred them to the eastern provinces of the
empire. This new legion was stationed in Samosata,
and served in military operations in Cappadocia and
Upper Mesopotamia. In 198-200, the legion replaced
an older bridge over the Cendere with the new
bridge that stands to this day. The legions symbol
was the lion.
The Cendere Bridge spans the
narrowest point of the Kahta
River.
Adyaman Culture
Basketwork
Branches used to make the
baskets are soaked in water for
24 hours so that they become
pliable and do not break during
the weaving process. After the
branches are stripped, they are
woven into fruit, bread and
shopping baskets.
Handcrafts
Popular Adyaman handcrafts
include weaving carpets and
kilims, sewing and embroidery,
oya lace making and
basketwork. The Kahta district is
particularly famous for its
basketwork, saddles and hand
woven carpets featuring natural
dyes.
Carpet weaving
The carpet weaving trade in Adyaman is conducted under the
supervision of instructors from the directorates of Public Education.
Some 5394 carpet weavers work on over 2000 domestic looms,
weaving carpets that are sold around the world. Adyaman is famous
for its Durukaynak (Piinik) carpets.
85 A DI Y A MA N C UL T URE A ND C UI S I NE
Soups
Wheat products such as pounded
wheat, coarsely ground wheat,
cracked bulgur wheat and flour
form the basis for all Adyaman
soups. Meyir soup is made from
pounded wheat, ayran (diluted
yoghurt) and chickpeas. The two
most common soups are Alaca
made from coarsely ground
wheat, whole lentils and onions,
and Ptpt made by adding fried
onions to coarsely ground
wheat.
Vegetable dishes
The most common vegetable
dishes are Adyaman Tavas,
Parmak Kebap, Dolma-Sarma,
green beans and dveme.
Meatballs
Meatballs (kfte) play a major
role in Adyaman cuisine. The
two main ingredients are fine
cracked wheat known as simit
and minced meat specially
prepared for making meatballs.
The regional specialty is called
Kollotik. In addition to
kfte (Turkish steak tartare) and
ili kfte (meatballs in a
cracked bulgur wheat shell) that
are found throughout
Southeastern Anatolia, you can
also try local varieties such as
Kavurmal Scak Kfte (fried,
hot meatballs) and Ekili Kfte
(meatballs made with egg and
lemon sauce).
Pilafs
In Adyaman, all rice dishes
made with cracked bulgur wheat
are known as a. The most
popular a is rice made with
vermicelli, but can also contain
meat, chicken, zucchini, lentils,
liver and tomato.
Desserts
Adyaman desserts include Tene
Helvas, Top Helvas, Nie
Bulamac and llk. The region
produces high quality grapes,
from which pekmez (molasses),
pestil (fruit paste) and pekmezli
sucuk (nuts wrapped in molasses)
are made.
Adyaman Cuisine
Adyaman cuisine is characteristic of the Southeastern
Anatolia Region. The main ingredients are meat, wheat
products, pulses and vegetables. Onions, garlic, tomato
paste, crushed red pepper, parsley and dried mint are used
to add flavor to dishes.
Adyaman music
and folk dances
Music has long played an
important role in the history of
Adyaman, as evidenced by the
fact that archeological
excavations have uncovered
many musical instruments. A
variety of percussion and wind
instruments are on display at the
Adyaman Museum. In Adyaman,
men and women dance the
traditional folk dances side by
side. Every dance contains a
segment where the dancers act
out an aspect of real life: the Sal
dance portrays a wedding
procession crossing the
Euphrates; the Hasat tells the
story of a family of farmers
celebrating the harvest; and the
Bar dance portrays a
reconciliation between feuding
families and clans.
The harfane tradition
Musical get-togethers known as harfane are a long-
standing tradition in Adyaman. During the Ottoman
period, tradesmen who were members of an Akhi (an
organized brotherhood in Anatolia related to trade
guilds) would meet on weekends to socialize. Soon,
these gatherings spread to the entire community.
Harfane are held to this day, providing an
opportunity to discuss current events, sing traditional
folk songs, ballads, lay and ghazal, and to perform
folk dances.

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