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Instruction Manual for 1/12 and 1/6 scale
Warning : Protect Board from electrostatic discharge. Ground yourself before handling.
Protect bottom of board from shorting against anything metal. If using metal scres in the corner
holes to mount the board! be sure to use insulated ashers beteen the board and mounting area.
Battery warning: Please use fresh "# battery ith your $it. Batteries mar$ed %&ea#y
'uty( are misleading! they ha#e less )oer and do not last as long as al$aline batteries.
*ym)toms of a lo battery is the sound board not o)erating )ro)erly. *ounds of clic$ing or
incom)lete )hrases s)o$en means it is time to change the battery! e#en though all your lighting is
+he light board and ,-'s use less )oer! so they are unaffected by the lo battery. *ome users
ha#e found brand ne batteries that ere bad! )erchasing another battery sol#ed their )roblem. If
you re)lace your battery and find sound )roblems! )lease try another fresh battery.

Take care when dealing with wired soldered joints, bending them too many times could
break them off.
REA E!T"RE #A!$A% BE&'RE (TART"!).
(tarling Technologies wants to thank you for using our *roducts. +e stri,e to *ro,ide
you with the most awesome effects *ossible to bring your finished *roject to life.
&rom the -it series %ost in (*ace, (tarling .roudly
introduces our .lug-!-.lay B/ Robot %ife &orce %E and
(ound Effect kit for the .%0Aurora B/ model.
+e go E0&12 all the way with this kit.
+his com)lete $it features .obot/s #oice bo0 red ,-' synchroni1ed to 12 )hrases )ro#ided by a
high 3uality sound card. Blin$ing lights are included for fiber o)tics to light buttons on chest )anel
and #arious areas inside the bubble.
4ust )lug in some connectors! " #olt battery! and slide )oer sitch on! no soldering re3uired.
With each )ress of the button! B" s)ea$s 1 of 12 )hrases! some of hich refer to 'r. *mith and
Will .obinson. Wait for each )hrase to com)lete before trying to acti#ate the ne0t! you ill not be
able to interru)t the )hrase hile in )rogress. +his is as sim)le as a ,ighting $it can be.
5ircuits may be installed in models )ro#ided stand.

Effect &eatures:67e o)tional .5 for #oice acti#ation is a#ailable.8
10 9mm red ,-' that flashes in sync ith sound board to )hrases.
:0 ;mm hite flashing ,-'s to add effects for .obots chest and bubble fiber o)tics.
"ncluded in 3it:
1 0 <ully assembled B" .obot ,ife <orce2 =it
1 0 sound board ith s)ea$er.
Wired ,-' and re3uired connectors.
10 >oice tube.
<iber ?)tics.
Plastic tubing
1 P'< manual emailed after )urchase.
456 or 405 scale kits starts on .g.45.
Information about Moebius 1/6 scale starts on .g. 45
(ection 4 : 5onnections: Board *tructure.
)etting (tarted. .lease use your model instruction manual with this guide.
+arning : do not use hot glue on &iber o*tics, it will melt the (trands.
Always test your effect before making anything *ermanent.
Reset Button
<irst things first. ?n the sound board! you ill notice a )ushbutton connected to 2 blue ires. +his
is a Reset Button. If hile B" -ffect is turned on! and you ha#e cycled through some of the
effects! then you turn )oer off! only to turn effect bac$ on again right aay! the sound board
does not ha#e enough time to reset. It ill )lay the ne0t )hrase! hich is out of sync ith the #oice
bo0. +o correct this:
18 +urn off )oer.
28 Press and hold reset for 2 seconds.
;8 +urn )oer bac$ on. -#erything is bac$ in sync.
+his is only a )roblem if you turn B" off and bac$ on ithin 2 minutes! as the sound board ta$es a
certain amount of time to reset.
.hoto4 .eset button on sound board.
Board Structure:
.hoto7 Board *tructure.
@our $it comes fully assembled. If you need to disconnect some of the connections to )ass them
through drilled holes in stand! ta$e note of the orientation of the connectors before
disconnecting. 'on/t orry if you forget! use the abo#e .hoto7 and info )ro#ided belo.
.hoto 8.
94: ; - connection : +his connection has a soldered "# battery connector ith sitch.
97:B++B: +his area of the board contains : hite ,-'s to light the <iber ?)tics for chest and
.hoto<. >oice bo0.
98:Talk: +he single .ed ,-' is for the #oice
bo0. +he included #oice tube needs to be
Mas$ off the area that ill face forard of
robots #oice bo0. Mas$ off end that ,-'
attaches to. Paint se#eral coats of hite )aint!
this ill s)read the red light! then )aint blac$ to
hel) light bloc$. +est ith led and )aint as
needed. ,-' may fit snug in light bo0! do not
glue to ,-' until you are sure you are ready.
9<: Button: @ou do no ha#e to orry about the orientation of this connection. Plug it into 4: either
-ach )ress of the button acti#ates 1 of .obot/s )rogrammed )hrases.
9=: (ound: this connection is for the sound board
connector. Mar$ed A B *. +hat is! .ed Blac$ and hite
ire. Ma$e sure you note the orientation.
(ection 7: rilling > &iber '*tics.
.9mm and 1mm <iber o)tics are )ro#ided. @ou ill re3uire multi)le colors of clear )aint to
)aint the ends. 'o not use hot glue or su)er glue to secure! it ill melt the <?.
'rill a hole slightly larger than the si1e of the <iber
+o mushroom the end of a fiber strand! #ery 3uic$ly
touch the end to a hot surface such as a soldering iron!
or an electric sto#e burner. 'o it #ery 3uic$ly multi)le
times until you achie#e a si1e too large to )ass through
the drilled hole.

B/ reference .hoto. @ou may also ant to refer to
for #ideo reference to achie#e the best effect. In the search! ty)e %b" robot(.
?om*aring B/ to Robby.
@ou will need to dry fit Robot and see where you need to drill holes to allow the
,oice boA %E and &iber o*tic strands to *ass through. (tart at one of the feet
and work your way u*. "f you are using the included model stand or a custom
stand, line u* the holes with the foot. Refer to RobbyBs manual. "t is ,ery similar.
(te,eBs Build info
?$ I too$ accurate measurements of the <? lenghts needed 6ith about 1 inch fudge8
<? for star: 11 1/:% C 6
<? for loer chest: D.9E C 12
<? for dual chest lights: "E C 2
Be sure to test your %ight blocking. @ou may
need to light block &' strands in certain
areas where they *ass through the bubble.
Always test before making anything
1mm <? is )ro#ided for the 2 large $nobs on
robots chest. Mushroom the end of <? and test
si1e. @ou may ant to drill the $nobs out
com)letely and fill ith a clear e)o0y or Micro
=ristal =lear. 5ut e0tra fiber o)tic to allo it to
reach the ,-'s at 97. Be sure to attach 1 <? to B
and the other <? to the other B so that they blin$
alternately. @ou may attach the 2 shallo 1/D%
hite tubing behind the $nobs for easier <?
Frrange the circuits in a ay to ma$e the <?
installation as easy as )ossible. *te#e used the
setu) on Photo"a. 'o this before cutting strands! if
you change your mind later! after cutting strands!
and decide to shuffle the circuits around! the
strands may no longer reach the ,-'s.
In the center! here there are 1: s3uare
buttons! drill them out and use clear e)o0y or
Micro =ristal =lear! refer to .hoto 5 for colors!
then )aint each button ith +amiya or +estors
clear )aints or Gust lea#e them solid and )aint each
s3uare. 7o fiber o)tics are re3uired in this area!
but be sure to route any fiber o)tics strands
behind this area to allo it to lightly glo.
+he loer 12 small $nobs need to be drilled out.
Hse a drill bit a little larger than the <? strand.
@ou do not need to drill all holes! you may
randomly )aint some of the buttons and lea#e
them unlit.
Mushroom .9mm <?! )aint ith +amiya or
+estors clear )aintsERefer to .hoto5:! and )ull
through each $nob! the mushroom should $ee) it
from coming through. ,ea#e enough e0tra <? to
reach 97: ,-'s and gi#e you some slac$ for easy
building. Ffter you are sure of the <? length! use
clear e)o0y or Micro =ristal =lear on bac$ side of
)anel to hold the strands from bac$ing out.
We ill attach the strands to the ,-'s in another
?rgani1e your <? strands to $ee) things neat and
manageable. .emember to lea#e yourself e0tra <?
length to ma$e or$ more manageable.
Hse clear e)o0y on the inside of chest to hold the
<? in )lace.
Goice-boA: .efer to .hoto/b and
tem)orarily )lace +he >oice bo0 to find
the best )osition. Glue in )lace hen
you are ready. 5hec$ your light
Bubble: Gather all the )arts for inside the head
and bubble. 'rill here you need to )ass the <?
through. 'e)ending on the si1e of the lights you
ant in this area! you may not need to mushroom
the <?. Ma$e sure you ,ea#e enough e0tra <? to
reach 97: ,-'s and gi#e you some slac$ for easy
building. Ffter you are sure of the <? length! use
clear e)o0y or Micro =ristal =lear to hold them in
)lace. +he lights a))ear to be hite! so there is no
need to )aint the ends of the <?.
,ight bloc$ the head from the #oice bo0 light as
shon in *hoto44. +he head on the original B" is
not lit.
+he 6 )ointed star6manifold8 in the model $it ill
ha#e to be modified ith 1/16% brass tubing.
*tart by cutting off each ti) flush ith ring! cut
brass tubing to match the length of the cut off
)iece! then drill a hole to insert tubing. Ma$e sure
you do not use a drill bit that is too large! you
ant the tube to fit snug.
.hoto4=. -ither drill through the center )ost
as ell as drilling 6 holes to here the tubing is
located to allo for fiber o)tics! or use
brass/aluminum tubing.
Hse heat shrin$ to create the ide areas you see
on *hoto4=a to com)lete the star6manifold8 loo$.
.hoto4C. ?nce the <? as in the manifold and
out itIs hole I slid the brass tube bac$ o#er
it.<eed fiber o)tics and )aint <? ti)s to match
Photo6. -)o0y only after testing e#erything is
+o get the last 6 <? strands into the hole I had to attach them to thin brass tube
and )ull them through the bottom of the base.
.hoto4/. 7otice the blac$ dis$s used for light bloc$ing the #oice tube from other areas of the
.hoto74. ,ong brass tube used to )ull bunched <? easily through robots body and
.hoto77. Gluing and holding don.
Hse clear e)o0y or Micro =ristal =lear to attach the :
hite tubes to the : ,-'s at 97:. .andomly insert the
&' strands from the chest and bubble to the < ,-'s.
+est effect and change them around as you see fit. When
you are ha))y ith the effect! e)o0y the strands inside of
the tubes.
"nstalling circuits in stand. (te,eBs Build info
+rim )a)er from *ound board for a better fit.
+his seems to be the o)timum location for the
to boards.
@ou ant them not to hang belo the edge of the
base! and hen the light board is located! you
ant enough room for a smooth gentle cur#e for
the <iber ?)tics to follo from the board to the
hole in the base.
*itch and buttons installed.
Fiber optics can now be fed to each of the four !"s#
$ando%&' arran(e the F) for each !" and chec* the
effect+ 'ou don,t want ad-acent buttons a&& b&in*in( on
and off at the sa%e ti%e#

Be sure to check out (te,e ?auseyBs B/ and 97 builds on
Always test your lighting and fiber o*tic lighting
though out your build, it will sa,e you time and
headaches. Also test for light blocking.
(tarling is *roud to introduce our .lug-!-.lay %ife
&orce kit for one of the most antici*ated (y&" models
of the decade, the #oebius 405 scale %o(t in (*a?E
+here/s )lenty of room in this big boy to install the entire $it.
.lease also refer to the information that is *ro,ided abo,e, for the
smaller B/, to com*lete your 456 or 405 scale build.

(ection 8: 456 and #oebius 405 scale model 67e o)tional .5 for #oice acti#ation is
a#ailable on ebsite. +his o)tion must be installed before shi))ing.8
"ncluded in 3it:
1 0 <ully assembled B" .obot ,ife <orce2 =it
1 0 sound board ith s)ea$er.
:0 9mm hite flashing ,-' harness! 2 <or the to ,arge $nobs on chest and 2 for e0tra
random blin$ing for B"! ith )igtails for e0tra ,-'s.
20 ;mm hite steady ,-'s ith resistors for e0tra lighting.
10 >oice tube.
.9mm and .29mm <iber ?)tics.
10 :% 1/:% Plastic tubing.
1 P'< manual emailed after )urchase.
7ormal modeling tools.
Micro drill bits.
5lear e)o0y and fa#orite glue.
5lam)s to hold )arts to dry.
&or star fingers.
1/16%61.92mm8 brass or aluminum tubing.
1/16% heat shrin$.
!ote: @ou may need to s)lice e0tra length of ire for the "# connector as e ha#e the
1/6 B" on hand and ha#e disco#ered the "# battery can be stoed in one of the feet.
<uture $its ha#e been u)dated ith a 9 1/2% of e0tra length.
May re3uire e0tra iring 622agB26ag8 and <iber ?)tics de)ending on ho elaborate
your build is. Mag ire may be re3uired to sho less iring in bubble.
?ur $it utili1es fiber o)tics for an easy installation as ell as conser#ing
battery )oer! ithout im)airing #isual aesthetics.
.hoto B/.: 16% and 1/6 scale B" $it. Ffter un)ac$ing! s)read e#erything out! $ee) the )igtails
from touching each other! add a "# battery! then test your effect. F dim #oice bo0 indicates a lo
battery. F #ery lo battery is indicated hen a clic$ing sound is heard instead of #oice )hrase.
.hoto B/ $*dated wiring -arness. F steady ;mm hite ,-' ith s3uare glo rod as added
to the harness for illuminating the bac$ of the 120 s3uare chest buttons. @ou can tint it ith clear
orange if you ant that incandescent light color I tested a arm hite ,-' and it as to yelloish
of a color.
+he rest of the harness contains :0 9mm blin$ing ,-'s! use 2 for the 2 large chest buttons and
the other 2 for more random fiber o)tic lighting tal$ed about later in the manual. +he 2 )oer and
ground )igtails are for those of you ho ould li$e to solder more ,-'s to the $it.
@our $it comes ith all connections connected! if you remo#e them! )lease note
orientation so that they are correctly connected. It is a good idea to hot glue all )lugged
connections to )re#ent them from coming loose in the future.
2 of the 9mm ,-'s in the harness are for the 2 large buttons on robots chest. Hse the other 20
9mm ,-'s in conGunction ith the : board ,-'s to add random lighting in the bubble and on the
.ower switch ti*: you may ant to find a ay to use .obots )oer )ac$ to conceal the
sitch and ma$e it functional.
R? $nit:
"f you ordered your kit with the o*tional R? unit, you will be able to acti,ate the
,oice by remote control. @ou will need to *hysically switch the kit on and off. A
manual ,oice acti,ation button is also *ro,ided as well as a reset button.
(lide the co,er on your remote control, u* or down to eA*ose the button.
+est your ,ight $it continuously throughout your build to ma$e sure e#erything or$s. -#ery
time you add a ne ,-'! test it.
+orking with &iber o*tics. 'o not use su)er glue on fiber o)tics. If using
hot glue! carefully test on a scra) )iece of fiber o)tics. +ry not to a))ly too
much heat. 9 min clear e)o0y is the normal glue to use.
<iber ?)tics flared.
<lare ends of <? as large as you ant to
shine more light out the end of each button..
Hse a heat source such as the electric range
on your sto#e! or soldering iron. Put the range
on lo heat. Gently and 3uic$ly )ress the end
of each <? to the heat source. Wor$ u) and
don from the heat source to mushroom the
-ither di) the ends multi)le times in <uture!
hich ma$es lighting brighter! or =rystal =lear
to achie#e a rounded lens. +his ill hel) to
transfer a larger beam of light out the end of
your fiber o)tics. @ou ant it to loo$ li$e a
bulb at the end. "t might take se,eral
hours for the 3rystal 3lear to dry but
you will ha,e a large ball with one
If you are ha#ing trouble ith routing the
thic$er fiber o)tics or need more fiber o)tics!
you can )urchase more here:
.9mm fiber o)tics is easier to or$ ith but
re3uires you to flare it more.
Hse electric range to easily flare your <?.
5ut your 1/:% tube into 1/2% )ieces and
)lace o#er the : blin$ing board lights! and
four blin$ing harness lights to route your
fiber o)tics to. (ee *hoto below .hoto 7=
below Hse 2 of the 1/:% tubes to house the 2
9mm )reBired blin$ing ,-'s for the .obots 2
large chest buttons.
Fs you route the fiber o)tics! you may find
that you ill need to light bloc$ the strands so
that they do not interfere ith each others
lights. +his may not be a )roblem! but do test.
Fn easy method of combining so many fiber
o)tics into one tube is to melt the ends
together in a bunch! then glue them into a
@ou bunch u) all your <?! heat a butter $nife
e0tremely hot! 5F.-<H,! and touch the ends
until they melt together. Ma$e sure the bunch
ill fit into the tube. +hen e)o0y them in.
(te,e ?ausey has kindly documented his clients B/ build, *ro,iding ti*s and
*hotos. .hotos here will start from .hoto4 on.
*te#e starts out by cleaning s)ruce! dry fitting! assembling sub assemblies! and cleaning
u) the seams. Ffter some )ainting! again! dry assembling the sub assemblies.
+est your lighting fre3uently and chec$ for light bleeding. +est fit before )ermanently
5hec$ and fi0 light lea$s as you assemble.
.hoto 4. 5oncealing "# battery. *te#e/s client
anted to use a allart! )hoto shos dc Gac$
.hoto 7. '5 Gac$ o)tion.
We are going to stac$ the B" starting
ith the feet. 'ecide on hich foot to
conceal "# battery! there is )lenty of
room. ,ea#e *art I5< bottom )late loose
for battery access.
@ou/ll need to drill holes in the #arious
)arts abo#e the feet to )ass the "#
battery connector and ires through.
.hoto 8.
.hoto <. @our holes ill need to be larger
because of the "# battery connector.
.hoto=. Poer ires )assing through legs u) to body.
.hoto 5. *ound board and s)ea$er can be stored in u))er #inyl legs! your choice. Glue s)ea$er
securely in )lace to )re#ent it from #ibrating and ma$ing a strange sound.
.hoto C. <eed ires through.
.hoto D. <eeding ires through ne0t layer.
hoto / : +o) of )hoto shos here *te#e chose to
drill holes for buttons and on/off sitch. 5hoose
your sitch and buttons )lacement.
.hoto 4F. 2 )ush buttons and 1 )oer
sitch installed.
.hoto 44. Buttons and sitches installed from
inside. Photo etch screens also installed.
.hoto 47. Fn e0tra steady ,-' can be attached to
the )igtails off the )oer connection to light the
from control )anel. Be sure to use a :2Johm
.hoto 48. 5om)leted control )anel.
R? recei,er *lacement.
+he recei#ers sync button needs to be accessible in case you lose or brea$ the transmitter.
.hoto 4<: (te,eBs instructions: I too$ an 0acto and o)ened u) the bac$ side of the left arm.
they should install the arm before doing this..itIs $ind of tough to get the #inyl )art seated! and if
you cut it o)en first it might be e#en harder to do. +his ay I could ha#e an access )ort for the
./5 reset button.
.hoto 4=. @ou can see the recei#er in B"Ks left arm.
Goice BoA
>oice tube.
>oice tube for ,-' #oice bo0.
&alf of the included #oice tube needs to be
Mas$ off the area that ill face forard of your
robots #oice bo0. Mas$ off end that ,-'
attaches to. Paint se#eral coats of hite )aint!
this ill s)read the light! then )aint blac$ o#er
the hite to hel) light bloc$. +est ith led and
)aint as needed. ,-' may fit snug in light bo0!
do not glue to ,-' until you are sure you are
@ou may use clear 9min e)o0y or your choice of
glue. Glues meant for )olystyrene ! such as
modelmasters li3uid cement ill not or$.
Whiche#er .obot! .obby! B"! etc! you may
need to build a light bo0 around the inside of the
clear )lastic! encasing the #oice tube. +his ill
s)read the light here you ant it and bloc$ it
here you donIt ant it.
#aterials to use for light boA:
?ard stock.
.olystyrene sheets.
Aluminum foil.ETake care that no *ower
sources will come in contact.
.hoto 45. >oice bo0 area.
.hoto 4C. Part L;:. Be careful not to cut
off the bottom section.
.hoto 4D. +his area needs to be o)ened for #oice
,ight bloc$ the bac$ of the #oice bo0 area
by building a light bo0 out of )lastic! card
stoc$! or carefully use foil ma$ing sure
nothing metal comes in contact ith it.
(ee .hoto < *age <. for #oice bo0
?hest %ights
.hoto 4/. 'rill shallo holes in the bac$ of the
round buttons for fiber o)tics. Be care not to go
all the ay through.
.hoto 7F. Hse clear color acrylics to color
buttons. Hse clear 9min e)o0y to set only after
you ha#e tested the to see they light )ro)erly.
*te#e flared the ends a bit! shon in the fiber
Fn e0tra steady ,-' can be attached to the
)igtails off the )oer connection to light the
s3uare buttons.
o)tics section! before inserting. +his ill
)ro#ide more light. &e used .29mm fiber
When itIs time to connect to the : board
blin$ing lights and the to e0tra blin$ing lights
)ro#ided in the iring harness! alternate your
fiber o)tics beteen the si0 blin$ing ,-'* to
achie#e the most random loo$ing effect. Ma$e
sure adGacent buttons are not routed to the
same ,-'.
.hoto 74.
.hoto 74a. *te#e minimi1es light cross o#er
using heat shrin$.
.hoto 77. *te#e )ainted a light coat of flat
hite on the outside lens of both buttons and
sil#er around the be1el. &e lightly )ainted one
of the 9mm blin$ing ,-'s green! from the :
,-' harness! and the other 9mm Blin$ing ,-'
red. It gi#es the buttons a light green and and
light )in$ effect. (ee .hoto 5 of the small B/
.hoto 78. Green )aint from the large green
button as remo#ed and the 9mm ,-' as
)ainted instead. +he other buttons 9mm ,-' as
)ainted clear red.
.hoto 7<. +est then glue 2 of the : 9mm
blin$ing ,-'s! from the harness! behind the 2
large buttons using 2 )ieces of the 1/:% tubing.
.hoto 7=. Hse : )ieces of tubing o#er the : board ,-'s. *te#e used heat shrin$ o#er them to
)re#ent some light bleeding.
.hoto 75.
.hoto 75a-b Board installed )osition. Pro#ides : lights for <iber o)tics. Photo on right shos the
20 9mm blin$ing ,-'s off of harness. <iber o)tics are also fed to these.
.hoto 75c. .andomly arrange the <iber o)tics and them fed to the :0 board ,-'s and 20 9mm
harness ,-'s. +est effect before e)o0ing. (ee *age <F
Bubble (tar manifold:
'onIt be afraid of or$ing ith brass an aluminum tubing. +he cutter belo as )urchased at
hobby lobby and is made for it.
.hoto 7Ca. @ou/ll need 1/16%61.92mm8 brass
tubing and heat shrin$ for manifold fingers. 5ut 2
)ieces to the si1e of *art I= and add the light
ti*s to length
67ot included in $it.8
.hoto 7Cb.
.hoto 7Cc. .art /44# Brain cu) to) half.
.hoto 7D. .emo#e the longer inside )ost.
.hoto 7/. 'rill out center for fiber o)tic
strands. .hoto 7/a. .art I<= brain cu) bottom half.
5ar#e 2 dee) channels for the fiber o)tics to lay.
Before com*leting these ste*s, read all of them first.
Before installing your fiber o*tics, you need to flare them. Test them with a light
source before installing. .g 4D shows how to flare and create a bulb on the end
to achie,e maAimum lighting. Also cut more than enough length to reach the
%Es so that you ha,e *lenty of work room when laying the model down.
"f you are struggling with .C=mm fiber o*tics for the star fingers, you can use
.=mm. &lare and create a large bulb with 3rystal 3lear, test the lighting. "t might
take se,eral hours for the 3rystal 3lear to dry but you will ha,e a large ball with
one a**lication.
.hoto .=mm &'. .9mm fiber o)tics can be used in )lace of the .29mm in the finger
lighting and eyes. <lared and di))ed in Micro =rystal =lear and alloed to )ro)erly dry
results in hat you see in the )hoto. ?rb glos from the side and bright light out the front.
5ut 2 strands of .29mm fiber o)tics and flare
as discussed on *g4D. 5ut them to gi#e you
enough slac$ to or$ ith and reach the :
blin$ers in the body and to 9mm ,-'s on the
harness. @ou ant to create a clear bulb on the
end of the flare. <uture clear )olish gi#es the
best clarity but ta$es longer to achie#e a bulb.
Micro =rysal =lear is a creates a nice orb on the
<eed the 2 strands through the brass tubes and
through the loer brain cu). 5ut the lengths
long enough to gi#e you )lenty of slac$ once
you attach them to the light board.
.=mm will also work as long as you flare
nice a nd large. +e use it with the
.hoto 8F. *ull the strands through.
.hoto 84. *te#e also fed .9mm u) the center
for additional effects inside the bubble. We/ll see
hat he does ith them later. Place the to)
brain co#er o#er the strands. 5an be used
.hoto 87.
.hoto 87a. 7otes from *te#e:
I re)laced $it )arts L 9; connecting shaft hal#es
ith a section of .J2JE /.:.; mm brass tube you
can use the $it )arts but the inside ill need to
be enlarged to allo the <? to )ass through.
.hoto 88. Brass tubes are not shon in )hoto. -ach fiber o)tic should ha#e its on brass tube.
Pull out the slac$ and then clam). Glue the to) and bottom brain cu)s together and clam) until
dried. *ee *hoto 8C.
.hoto 88a.
7o e/re getting to the cool stuff M8
.hoto 8<. @ouI#e )assed the brass tubes o#er the 2 strands of fiber o)tics and into the brain cu)s
and the flared ends should be at the end of each brass tube. 7ote in the )hoto here the heat
shrin$ is. .emember each fiber o)tic should be flared ith a bulb of future! =rystal =lear or clear
.hoto 8=. 'o not use the *art I= as this method ill obstruct much of the fiber o)tic lighting.

.hoto 85. o not use the *art I= as seen in *hoto, the ti*s obstruct the light. Hse a dro)
of Micro crystal clear! future or clear e)o0y on each end seen in *hoto 8C.. @ou can test ith a
flash light to ma$e sure they are bright.
.hoto 8C. My moc$ u) of the manifold and fingers using a cor$ ,?,. I needed to demonstrate ho
to use the fibers to gain their ma0imum light and did not ha#e the model in hand. 7ote the one
toards the right that is orb sha)ed. +his as made using a dro) of Micro =rystal =lear! the rest
are tested ith future. Fll are bright and the orb glos nicely from the side. Test the lighting
before e*oAying to the %E *ee *hoto 8D.
.hoto 8D. Pro)erly flaring and creating the end bulb ill achie#e the seen results. +he "Jdeg bend
has no negati#e effect on the lighting! as you can see.
Attaching fiber o*tics to %Es.
Always test throughout your build, it will sa,e you time and headaches.
Be sure to test your fiber o)tics )ositioning before e)o0ying in )lace. @ou may need to mo#e your
fiber o)tics around and ma$e sure they are not laying sideays. Flso test the randomness of the
effect! ma$e sure there are no adGacent buttons blin$ing at the same time.
.hoto 8/. Fttaching <? to 9mm harness ,-' lights.
.hoto <F. Ffter youI#e tested the effect! you may e)o0y the fiber o)tics to the inside of the tubes.
.emember to also use the 20 9mm blin$ing ,-'s off the harness to add more random action.
.hoto <4. -nd result of *te#es build.
As more ti*s come in from others
builds, we will be adding more
hel*ful info. ?ontinue reading
below for %E info.
(oldering eAtra %Es and Resistors. +his info is for those of you ho
ould li$e to add e0tra ,-'s but ha#e limited soldering s$ills. 2 e0tra ;mm hite steady
,-'s ith resistors are included to add more lights to B".

F red and blac$ )igtail is )ro#ided off the :0 flasher ,-' harness connection to add your
on ,-'s.

+he longer lead is the )ositi#e6anode8
side of the ,-'. If you e#er mi0 things
u)! loo$ inside the ,-'. +he smaller
element is )ositi#e! the larger one is
5ut the )ositi#e lead to solder resistor to. *older
resistor! then cut both leads e3ual lea#ing some lead
to solder your ire to.
*older your colored ire to the
)ositi#e and blac$ ire to the
negati#e lead.
@ou May ant to use heat shrin$ to )re#ent the
bare leads from shorting.
Pigtails off of :0 ,-' harness connector )ro#ided for
e0tra ,-'s. Plug it into the 94 connector mar$ed /,
? noting )olarity. Mag ire may be re3uired for
any e0tra ,-'s you ould li$e to )lace inside bubble.
When dealing ith multi)le ,-'s! gather all your
red6)ositi#e8 ires 6colored ire8 and solder them
together. *li) a )iece of heat shrin$ that is large
enough to slide o#er the ire bundle. *older this ire
bundle to the colored red )igtail6)ositi#e8. 'o the
same for all your blac$6ground8 ires.
*older your ire bundle.
&eat shrin$ your bundle together.
Fs stated in the instructions for the smaller B"! create a light bo0 for behind the #oice bo0
to ma$e this area bright. Hse the small B" build instructions for the rest of your build.
More info ill be added as information is )ro#ided.
(ection <: (*ecifications.
B" .obot ,ife <orce =it runs on "#olt Battery.
B/ References.
htt):// Efor ,ideos:
(te,es .ost on -obbytalk.
Thank you again for *urchasing the B/ Robot %ife &orce kit from
Stanley J. Koziol
Most of the info and )hotos in this manual ere )ro#ided *te#e 5ausey.
*tarling +echnologies ould li$e to than$ *te#e 5ausey for his hel) in this )roGect
*te#e is a )rofessional model builder ho does an ama1ing Gob on all his )roGects.
5ontact *te#e for )rice 3uote at:
&ome of *5 Models 5ustom build u)s for the discriminating collector. 5ontact us for a 3uote:
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