Working principle of rotary vane steering

gear. Draw
Rotary Vane Gear
These consist of two elements:
1. a cylindrical static casing (stator) with usually three internal vanes which project
radially inwards
2. a rotor keyed to and concentric with the rudder stock, the rotor has rotor vanes
which project radially outwards into the spaces formed by the stator vanes.
The spaces formed between the stator and rotor vanes are used as high and low pressure
chambers. The main advantage of the system is that it is compact, occupying about 1 / 10
the space of a ram system. The disadvantages are ;
1. it has a long oil sealing path
2. it is a constant torque machine at all angles of helm compared to the ram system
where due to the Rapson slide effect, the torque available increases with
increasing helm.
Where 100% redundancy is required two rotary vanes in piggy back are used.
All vanes are spheroidal graphite cast iron secured to the cast iron rotor and stator by high tensile
steel dowel pins and cap screws. Rotor strength is maintained by keys fitted full length of the
rotary vane. Steel sealing strips are fitted along the working faces, backed by synthetic rubber in
grooves along the working faces which are elastically loaded, so as to ensure that contact with
the mating surfaces is maintained in order to hold the hydraulic pressures.

The chambers are alternately connected to the suction and delivery from the hydraulic pump so
that they can be used to produce the rudder actuating torque. Because the distribution of the
pressure chambers is balanced around the rudder stock, only pure torque is transmitted to the
stock and no side loading are imposed by the gear.
There are two main types of rotary vane steering gear in use today. One has its stator firmly fixed
to the steering flat deck and the stator housing and cover are provided with suitable bearings to
enable the unit to act as a combined rudder carrier and rudder stock bearing support. The other
type of vane gear is supported where the stator is only anchored to the ships structure to resist
torque but is free to move vertically within the constraints of the separate rudder head bearing
and carrier which is similar to the bearing provided for ram type steering gears.
The rudder carrier ring bearing (Pallister Bearing) is taking the weight of the rotary vane steering
gear and the rudder and stock.


Rotation of the stator is prevented by means of two anchor brackets and two anchor bolts . The
anchor brackets are securely bolted to the stool and vertical clearance is arranged between the
inside of the Stator flanges and the top and bottom of the anchor brackets to allow for vertical
movement of the rudder stock. This clearance varies with each size of rotary unit but could be
about 40 mm total . It is essential that the rudder carrier should be capable of restricting the
vertical movements of the rudder stock to less than this amount.
The anchor bolts are fitted with special bushes in halves, shaped externally in order to pre-load
the synthetic rubber shock absorbers , which are fitted between them and the anchor brackets.
The maximum deflection of the shock absorbers under full load is approximately 1 mm.
The working angle of the gear is governed by the number of vanes and their thickness. Vanes act
as rudder stops when a moving vane contacts a fixed vane. Valves at inlet to the chambers may
be shut causing a hydraulic lock. In the rotary vane units the Mechanical Advantage is unity at
all angles and hence torque is constant
Torque = p.a.n.r.
where n = number of rotating vanes
a. Describe the procedure for opening a bottom end bearing for inspection making
reference to the positioning of the crank and the safety precautions to be observed.
(6)
b. State how the bearing clearance may be checked and adjusted when necessary. (4)
c. State TWO defects which may be encountered during inspection of the bottom end
bearing and crankpin giving possible causes of EACH. (4)
d. State TWO checks which should be made before returning the engine to service
following overhaul of the bottom end bearing. (2)
a.
Engine shut down and secured. Turning gear engaged, cocks open
Carry out risk assessment.
Check all lifting gear and tools within certification & free from defects.
Permit to work obtained (crankcase an enclosed space).
Clearance to turn engine obtained from bridge.
Check that no one working elsewhere on engine or on or over shafting.

Turn engine to TDC
Mount a chain block either side of the
crankcase
Screw eye bolts into threaded holes on
either side of lower bearing half.
Attach chain blocks, wire strops, and

Fit four guide shoe retaining blocks in to
the crosshead guides. This will prevent
the crosshead and con rod from moving
down the engine when it is turned.
Wrap a strop around the bottom of the
con rod and attach to a chain block
take up slack.
Remove locking plates and slacken
bearing stud nuts using hydraulic jacks
Remove jacks and nuts.
Using chain blocks lower the bearing
cover, taking care not to damage the
threads of the studs or the crankpin
journal.
Remove the bearing cover from the
crankcase.

mounted on the side of the engine


Turn the engine while pulling the the
lower part of the con rod with the lifting
tackle so that the crankpin turns out of
the top half of the bearing. Take care
that the crankpin does not foul on the
top edge of the bearing.

The crankshaft can be turned to bottom
dead centre and the top half of the
bearing examined / removed.
b.
To check the bottom end bearing clearance.
Turn the engine to BDC.
Isolate the turning gear.
Climb down into crankpit and measure the clearance using feelers.
The clearance is measured on the bottom half
of the bearing because the mass of the running
gear acting downwards means that the top half
of the bearing is sitting on the journal. On a
large engine (960mm bore) this clearance can
be 0.8mm

With modern shell bearings, the clearance is manufactured into the shells. When the clearance
has reached a maximum as laid down in the instruction manual the bearing is changed.
Thick wall shell bearings fitted on some engines have the clearance adjusted by fitting shims
between the bearing halves. The shims are of equal thickness on both sides of the bearing
housing.
c.
When inspecting the pin check for ovality. This is caused by the varying downward load on the
con rod in both the power and compression stroke. If the ovality is more than 25% of the
bearing clearance then there is a danger of the hydrodynamic lubrication being affected.
Check the top bearing shell for evidence of the bearing material separating from the steel shell
backing. This is caused by the high pressure oil supply from the crosshead acting on the back of
the shell and deforming it. Shows by cracking of the white metal.
d.
Two checks before returning the engine to service following overhaul of bottom end:
Oil flow through bearings; Start pump and ensure oil is reaching bottom end and flowing
out of bearing sides.
Engine turns through at least one revolution with turning gear whilst observing ammeter
for signs of excessive current.


The sketch illustrates a modern two stroke bottom end arrangement. A forged steel con rod
complete with bottom end bearing housing has replaced the older style con rod with marine
palm and separate bearing. The bottom half of the white metal bearing can either be cast into
the cap or, like the top half, be a separate steel backed shell. With modern steel backed shell
bearings, the clearance is built in and non adjustable; when it becomes excessive the bearing is
changed. Older thick walled bearings used shims to adjust the clearance. Because the load on
the con rod is always downwards on a two stroke engine, it is the top half of the bearing which
takes the load. Oil is supplied down from the crosshead, through a bore in the con rod and
round the outside of the top shell to the ends of the bearing half where it is fed into the bearing
through two holes. The bottom half of the bearing may have a groove cut into it to assist in
carrying the oil around.
Studs screwed into the bottom half of the bearing cap have replaced the older style through
bolts. When removing the bottom end cap, care must be taken not to damage the crankpin.
Because of the varying load on the crankpin, it has a tendency to wear oval; this should be
checked as excessive ovality (25% of clearance) can affect hydrodynamic lubrication.
Distortion of the bearing top half due to downward oil pressure from the crosshead has been
known to separate the white metal from the steel backing.

b.
The varying load on the 2 stroke bottom end on the power and compression stroke is always
downwards. The bottom end bolts are stretched when tightening the nuts using hydraulic jacks
and are under tension. This tensile stress remains constant during the operation of the engine.
On a four stroke engine, the bottom end bolts are again under tension. However, the inertia
loads due to the mass of the reciprocating parts cause a stress reversal in the connecting rod
from high compressive stress (during power and compression stroke) to a low tensile stress
between the exhaust and inlet strokes. This stress reversal in the con rod is reflected in the
bottom end bolts where the tensile stress in the bolts is now not constant. This cyclic stressing
means that bottom end bolts on a 4 stroke engine have a limited life, approx 12 - 15000 hrs. To
prevent cracks starting, the bolts themselves are undercut at the bottom of the thread, changes in
section have smooth radiuses and the finish is good with no blemishes.

D'carb Process Of Auxiliary Generators Explained In Detail
Carrying out complete decarb of a marine generator is a normal routine. Learn about the entire
process here.
Introduction
D'carb of auxiliary engine is nothing but the carrying out of certain routines at intervals
prescribed by the manufacturer or experience. Normally the following should be done during a
marine decarb to free the engine from anomalies
o Every 3000hrs take out cylinder head, take the worn out mountings and/or over haul the
mountings
o All units cylinder head, piston, connecting rod, and turbocharger to be overhauled
o Clean sump tank and fill with fresh lube oil
o Take crank shaft deflection before and after removal of bearings
o What ever actions taken should be recorded in the maintenance record book
D'carb preparation
1. Make sure the all stand by auxiliary engines are ready
2. Keep all the special tools and other tools ready
3. Go through the previous records/manual for clearance and adjustments
4. Put the display card "MEN AT WORK", "DON'T START"
5. Close air bottle valve to auxiliary engine and engine start and stop valve
6. See that the turning bar is not in the flywheel and should be in place
7. Open the indicator cocks
8. If the main bearing is to be removed, check crank shaft deflections
9. Close lube oil, fuel oil, fresh water inlet/outlet valve, drain the cooling water line and remove
connections
Cylinder head of generator engine before cleaning

Removal of cylinder head
1. Scavenge manifold, exhaust manifold rocker arm, lube oil drain connection from rocker
arm, rocker arm tank and cover connection to be removed
2. Fuel oil high pressure connection from fuel pump to the injector, fuel valve cooling
connections in and out (either diesel or water) to be removed
3. Remove the rocker arm assembly and the push rod. Remove all the mountings such as
starting valve, indicator cock, relief valve and exhaust valve assembly
4. Remove the rocker cover and check any marking on cylinder head nuts and studs. If no
torque spanner is available, note down the markings.
5. Open the cylinder head nut with box spanner and extension rod. Never use the torque
spanner. With box spanner available note down the marking .
6. Put the cylinder head lifting tool and before lifting make sure all the connections are
removed. Also ensure that the liner is not removed along with the cylinder head
7. Take out the copper joint between the head and the liner
Piston removal pictures

Removal of piston and connecting rod
1. After lifting the head, check the liner surface for score marks, blow past etc. Crack
remove the ridges or deposits if any on the top surface to avoid the lifting of liner along
with the piston and breakage of piston rings while lifting piston
2. Open the crank case door and remove the bottom end bearing bolts after removing the
lock arrangement and the remove the bolts
3. Remove the bottom half of the bottom end bearing
4. Bring the piston to TDC. Make sure the bolt holes on the piston top, lifting tool holes
must be cleared from carbon deposits. Threads should also be checked and cleared
5. Put the piston lifting tools and tighten the bolts
6. Lift the piston and remove top shell of bottom end bearing
7. Place the piston on the piston stand and cover the crankcase pin to avoid the foreign
material damaging the crank-pin.
Cylinder liner and other parts d'carb

Cleaning the carbon content on all the parts of engine
1. Clean the piston rings, measure dimensions and keep them in order
2. Clean the piston ring grooves thoroughly and measure the groove thickness at 3 different
points
3. Check for the deposits on piston crown (Sulphur, carbon or thick vanadium deposits) and
measure the dimensions
4. Remove the gudgeon pin and clean the gudgeon lube oil holes as well as the bush or
small end bearing
5. Check the bolts of connection rod for any cracks
6. Every 20,000 hrs engine connecting rod bolt must be replaced
7. If new piston rings are going to be replaced, then there is no need for measurement
8. Calibrate the liner thickness by using template
Assembly of the engine parts
1. First put the piston rings one by one and measure the butt clearance for all the rings
2. Then measure the axial clearance between piston rings & grooves
3. Place the piston guide on top of the liner and bring the particular crank shaft to TDC.
Apply sufficient lube oil and start lowering the piston. Make sure that butt gap should not
be in line it may cause blow past
4. Before engaging check the crankpin for any cracks or scratch
5. Check the bottom end bearing clearance and if needed measure the main bearing
clearance as well
6. Taper clearance is checked
7. Check for any cracks in the water jacket and in the cylinder head
8. Replace all rubber joints and copper gasket to be put on the cylinder cover
9. Put the cylinder head gasket in the top of the cylinder
10. Anti-seizure coating or powder like molycote, copper slip should be used. It is applied to
avoid any seizure mainly on the threads or joints and it will be easier while removal
11. Tighten the cylinder mounting according to torque specified as in manual and make all
connection like lube oil, fuel, jacket cooling water connections etc
12. Fit the rocker arm back
Starting of generator engine
Starting of an engine from "stop" state is something which needs to be done with care, especially
if the interval of starting is sufficiently long. The following is a checklist of all the checks which
ideally need to be carried out before starting the generator. In actual practice sometimes the
engineers might take some of these for granted and skip, but it is advisable not to indulge in such
a practice. Infact these checks are generic for any four stroke engine starting process
1. Check the turbocharger sump oil level, governor, alternator, forward and aft lube oil
levels, and diesel oil level in service tank
2. Open the indicator cock
3. Prime the lube oil to all parts by hand pump or by motor driven priming pump
4. Ensure that all jacket cooler valves, lube oil cooler valves, air cooler valves should be in
open position
5. With use of the Turning bar turn the fly wheel and check for any resistance on the bottom
end bearing and check any water / fuel coming out through indicator cocks
6. While turning engine, check all visible lube oil points are lubricated
7. Remove the turning bar from fly wheel and put in the place
8. Drain the auxiliary air bottle
9. Blow through engine (ie: by turning engine with air). In order to ensure that no water is
inside combustion chamber if it is present it may cause water hammering
10. Close the indicator cocks and pull lever from stop to start
11. When the needle in RPM indicator deflects to some value of (0-25 rpm) put the lever in
run condition
12. The engine will run on fuel oil once the generator picks up the rated speed
13. Put generator on load by closing air circuit breaker
14. For checking the alternator fore and aft bearing lube oil level by opening oil plug in the
alternator and the ring bearing while rotating splash lube oil from the sump can be seen
15. In order to synchronize the incoming generator with running generator syncroscope
method/dark lamp method is used
est and Overhaul of Fuel Injection Valves
written by: Chief Engineer Mohit Sanguri edited by: Lamar Stonecypher updated: 10/18/2013
This article discusses the testing and the overhaul of fuel injectors of marine engines,the testing
of the needle and guide condition of the fuel valve, and the procedure to overhaul and inspect the
injectors taken out of the marine diesel engines.
Fuel Valve Checks

The fuel valves taken out from the engine must be checked for function and performance. Even
in engines which are stopped on heavy fuel oil in ports the fuel injector taken out must be
immediately tested with diesel oil before they get cold as this will flush and clean the
components. It must be noted that if the fuel valves taken out are tested after they have cooled,
will show bad performance even if they were performing satisfactorily in service.
In the majority of cases the fuel injectors have a good spray profile but they open up at a less
pressure. The pressure adjustment can be done without opening up the valve and should be done
so. The engine manufacturers also instruct that unless the fuel injector valve has a major problem
like holes choked or valve dripping, they should not be opened up. The valve should be cleaned
from the outside, pressure checked, pressure adjusted and tagged.
Inspection and Repairs
In the case where the fuel injector valve is not performing as required and has some defect, then
it needs to be opened up and overhauled. The assembly and the disassembly have to be done as
per the instructions given by the engine manufacturer. However, below is a general guide about
what you will most likely have to do.
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After the fuel valve has been disassembled then the following checks have to be done:
1. The needle guide should be immersed in clean diesel oil and the needle taken out and checked
for free movement. In the case of any resistance which may be due to the presence of carbon or
fuel sludge the needle may be put in and pulled out in succession many times while keeping it
submerged in diesel oil. It is important to do this in a container full of clean diesel oil so the
contaminants can be flushed away.
2. After the needle guide has been cleaned, the needle should be taken almost out and then let it
fall in with its own weight. A free and smooth movement with small jerks as the clearance is
making way for the oil to come out is an indication that the clearances are all right and the needle
guide is in good condition. It must be noted that the needle should fall fully into the seat.
3. On the other hand if the needle falls fully in one go, then the clearances have increased and the
fuel will leak past the spindle and less fuel will go in the cylinder. The needle must be inspected
for any wear marks if this happens. The needle guide can be used but must be changed soon.
4. If the needle does not go down and gets struck then it must be thoroughly cleaned again. If
still there is no improvement then the needle might have become bent. Check the needle for any
signs of overheating.

5. The push rod end should be checked for any abnormal wear.

6. The seating between the nozzle body and the valve body if damaged can be repaired by
lapping with fine lapping paste. It must be noted that the lapping paste should be thoroughly
flushed away with clean diesel oil and thereafter blown dry with compressed air.

7. Check the nozzle spring for breakage, poor seating and other defects. Change if required.

8. Check the leak off pipes, shims, packing etc for the condition. If the fuel valve is water cooled,
the cooling pockets should be cleaned with compressed air.
Tests and Adjustments
1. After the parts are cleaned and inspected the fuel valve is assembled as per the manufacturers
instructions and thereafter tested for function and performance.
2. The assembled fuel valve is installed on the test stand and after purging the pipe line the
manual handle is operated in quick succession. The nozzle should start discharging with a sharp
crackling noise at the set pressure. The pressure at which the injector is supposed to fire depends
upon the manufacturers engine design but normally is between 250 to 350 kg/cm2 with an
allowance of plus or minus 10 kg/cm2.
3. In case the lifting pressure is not correct, it can be adjusted by the adjusting screw.
4. The spray characteristics should be satisfactory and as per the manufacturers advice.
5. All the holes of the injector should be firing and can be checked by a torch light or a filter
paper can be folded as a cone and then the injector tested. The holes on the filter paper will show
the number of holes firing. In this procedure you must be careful as the high pressure spray can
enter the skin and is toxic for us.
6. The spray angle should be as stated by the manufacturer. The atomization of the fuel should
take place and solid spray should not come out.
7. Clean diesel oil should be used for the testing purpose.
8. In the case that the fuel valve is dripping the needle guide should be taken out and repaired.
Caution
The needle and the guide is always a pair and should not be interchanged with another one.
Cleanliness is the most important factor in making fuel valves. A clean fuel valve lasts a longer
time. The fuel under pressure can enter the skin and the blood stream and is toxic for humans.
Take care that you stay away from the spray. The fine mist can catch fire and in inflammable. Do
not smoke or use naked lights where the fuel injectors are being tested.
Construction of the Thermostatic Expansion Valves
written by: Haresh Khemani edited by: Lamar Stonecypher updated: 8/20/2013
This articles describes all the parts of the thermostatic expansion valve and also their working.
Construction of the Thermostatic Expansion Valve

Construction details of the internally equalized thermostatic expansion valve are shown in the
figure to the right. It is comprised of a metallic body which encloses the following parts:
1) Metallic Diaphragm: The metallic diaphragm is a flexible metallic plate that can expand due
to pressure of refrigerant inside the refrigeration or air conditioning plant.
2) Power Element: This is the upper portion of the thermostatic expansion valve which is filled
with gas. In the case of the air conditioning system, the gas filled in element is the same as the
gas filled in the air conditioning system. For instance if the air conditioning system is has R22
refrigerant, the gas filled in the power element is also R22. The power element is connected to
the feeler bulb, via thin tubing. The same gas is also filled in the tubing and the feeler bulb. Thus
the feeler bulb, the connecting tubing and the power element all form a single flexible chamber.

The feeler bulb is connected to the evaporator and senses the temperature inside the evaporator
of the refrigeration system. The volume of the gas inside the power element changes as per the
temperature sensed by the feeler bulb inside the evaporator. If the temperature inside the
evaporator is high the gas in the feeler bulb will expand; the gas in power element will also
expand and its pressure will increase. The gas pressure inside the power element tends to open
the thermostatic expansion valve.
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3) Valve Seat and Needle: The valve seat and the needle are located in the lower side of the
thermostatic expansion valve. The valve seat is the metallic plate that provides passage for the
flow of the refrigerant. The needle is connected to the lower part of the diaphragm and it moves
inside the opening of the valve seat. When the diaphragm moves down due to high pressure
inside the power element the needle also moves down thus opening the thermostatic expansion
valve and when the needle moves up the valve closes. The valve seat and the needle form the
orifice that allows the flow of the refrigerant through it.
4) Spring: The spring is located at the bottom of the thermostatic expansion valve. It is under
compression and tends to move the needle of the valve in an upward direction and close the
valve. The pressure of the spring is adjusted by the manufacturer and it depends on the degree of
superheat in the evaporator. You should purchase the TEV of the required spring pressure.
Though there is a screw for changing the spring pressure, it is preferrable not to change its
setting unless you are sure that the plant is working satisfactorily.
5) Liquid Inlet Port and Outlet to Evaporator: The liquid inlet port is connected to the tubing
coming from the condenser. The refrigerant enters the thermostatic expansion valve via this port.
After passing through the orifice of the valve seat and the needle the refrigerant leaves to the
evaporator in flashed conditioned via outlet to the evaporator.
7) All refrigeration systems require equalization lines. For more information, see this source:
http://www.swtc.edu/ag_power/air_conditioning/lecture/expansion_valve.htm
Working of the Thermostatic Expansion Valve
written by: Haresh Khemani edited by: Lamar Stonecypher updated: 2/16/2010
This article describes the working of commonly used thermostatic expansion valve or TEV. TEV
is used as the throttling device in number of refrigeration and air conditioning plants of higher
cooling capacities.
Pressures Acting Inside the Thermostatic Expansion Valve or TEV
The working of the thermostatic expansion valve can be explained with the help of the attached
image of the valve. The valve comprises of external body inside which various parts as shown in
the figure are enclosed.

There are three pressures acting inside the thermostatic expansion valve. P1 is the pressure at the
top of the thermostatic expansion valve acting inside the power element above the diaphragm.
Due to this pressure the diaphragm tends to move down due which the needle also moves down
and the valve tends to open. When the evaporator temperature becomes higher the gas in the
feeler bulb expands due to which the gas pressure inside the power element increases. This
causes the downward movement of the needle to open the valve
The pressure P2 is the pressure acting on the lower side of the diaphragm due to the refrigerant
pressure inside the evaporator. This pressure tends to move the diaphragm upwards and close the
opening of the valve.
The pressure P3 is the spring pressure that tends to close the opening of
the valve. This pressure remains constant.
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The pressures P2 and P3 act against the pressure P1. The pressure P1 tends to open the valve
while the pressure P2 and P3 tend to close the thermostatic expansion valve. Thus if the valve
has to open P1 should be greater than combined forces of P2 and P3.
How Thermostatic Expansion Valve Works?
During the normal working of the refrigeration plant the thermostatic expansion valve remains
opened in certain position. When the refrigeration load increases, the temperature inside the
evaporator also increases. In such cases there is need of the more refrigerant to take care of the
increased load. The increased temperature in the evaporator is sensed by the feeler bulb of the
thermostatic expansion valve. This leads to the expansion of the gas in the feeler bulb and also in
the power element of the TEV leading to the increase in pressure P1. Due to this the diaphragm
of the TEV moves down and tends to open the valve further to increase the flow of the
refrigerant to the evaporator.
At the same time the pressure P2 below the diaphragm also increases due to superheating of the
refrigerant inside the evaporator. This pressure tends to close the valve. There is also spring
pressure P3 below the diaphragm that opposes the opening of the valve. If the increase in the
refrigeration load is much higher the pressure P1 overcomes pressure P2 and P3 leading to the
further opening of the thermostatic expansion valve. This allows for the increased flow of the
refrigerant to the evaporator to take care of the extra load.
When the refrigeration load reduces, the magnitude of pressure P1 reduces and the combined
pressures P2 and P3 overcome pressure P1 that allows for partial closing of the valve so the flow
of the refrigerant to the evaporator reduces. Thus the TEV maintains the flow of the refrigerant
inside the evaporator as per the refrigeration or air conditioning load. The TEV constantly
modulates the flow to maintain the superheat for which it has been adjusted by the spring.