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Super Silent Compressor Built Out Of An Old Fridge/Water Cooler
by antagonizer on December 16, 2013
Table of Contents
Super Silent Compressor Built Out Of An Old Fridge/Water Cooler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Intro: Super Silent Compressor Built Out Of An Old Fridge/Water Cooler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Step 1: Tools and Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Step 2: Identifying The Tubes/electrical On The Fridge Compressor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Step 3: Important Choices On What Type Of Air Compressor To Canibalize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Step 4: Installing The Fridge/cooler Compressor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Step 5: Wiring The Power And Pressure Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Step 6: Finished . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
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Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
http://www.instructables.com/id/Super-Silent-Compressor-Built-Out-Of-An-Old-Fridge/
Intro: Super Silent Compressor Built Out Of An Old Fridge/Water Cooler
When you're working indoors, an ordinary compressor can be pretty loud and distracting. The only other option is to invest in a silent compressor which can, easily, cost
3-4 times as much. More than that, unless you're ready to spend an obscene amount, they are rarely able to put out the same psi as a standard compressor.
To the do-it-yourself type, this isn't a problem. Using a standard fridge/water cooler compressor, an old pancake air compressor, and a bit of soldering skill, you can build
your own SUPER silent compressor that is barely audible when running, and is capable of putting out, up to 120 psi safely. It operates a bit more slowly than it's
mechanical counterpart, but not by much. This model can pressure up in under 4 minutes.
This project should take you, no more, than an hour to build in it's simplest form, however there's plenty of room to improve the design. Simple upgrades such as a
custom mount for the fridge comp, a wire box to clean up the harness, etc. will go a long way to making your build prettier, but aren't necessary to it's function. There is
almost zero vibration and as much noise as your refrigerator has when it's running.
Step 1:Tools and Equipment
Equipment:
pancake compressor with separate pressure switch
fridge or water cooler compressor, (either will work fine. The one in this instructable is from a water cooler)
1/4" copper line
compression fittings
various wire connectors/marettes
tie wraps
Important note: When locating your fridge/cooler compressor, it's a good idea to have it drained by a professional. Simply cutting the tubes and letting the gasses out is
just plain bad for the environment, and a hazard to you if inhaled directly. If having it drained isn't an option, locate a unit that has been sent for recycling. More often than
not they end up there simply because they've leaked all of their coolant and no longer provide refridgeration, however the compressor itself should still be operational.
Nevertheless, you should still take precautions, when cutting the lines, by using a ventilator.
Tools:
Soldering torch w/ solder and flux paste
teflon tape
monkey wrenchs
drivers
wire stripper/cutter
Step 2:Identifying The Tubes/electrical On The Fridge Compressor
Electrical:
On the side of the unit, you'll find the thermal overload/power connection. In the second picture you can see the connections. You should make note of how it's connected
when you remove it from the fridge/cooler and wire using the same colors, with the ground wire connected to the body of the unit itself. There is a thermal overload built
into every unit that protects it. One flaw with a fridge compressor is that if you shut it off, then turn it on right away, the thermal overload will kick in. Don't worry if this
happens. Just wait a few seconds and try again. The thermal overload should reset itself. It'll also protect the unit from power spikes, in case you fudge the wiring like I
did on the first unit I built.
Identifying The Tubes:
More often than not you'll find three 1/4" tubes exiting the unit with one by itself on one side and the other two side by side on the other. An easy way to figure out what is
what is to connect the comp to power then feel the end of each line for suction or discharge. On 'most' models, the suction tube is the one that's by itself, and the
discharge tube is the lower of the two on the opposite side. The third tube is unused. It's called the process tube, and is generally only used at the factory for testing. This
tube should be crimped and/or soldered closed.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Super-Silent-Compressor-Built-Out-Of-An-Old-Fridge/
Image Notes
1. Suction tube
2. discharge tube
3. Process tube (not used)
Image Notes
1. Thermal overload
Step 3:Important Choices On What Type Of Air Compressor To Canibalize
The choice of air compressor you plan to use for this project is extremely important. I've built a few of these, for other people, and have found that the pancake models
with the separate pressure switch tend to work the best. The larger models that incorporate the pressure switch into the power have a unique issue. There is usually a
bleed valve, incorporated into these, that release the pressure going from the compressor to the tank. Unfortunately, this switch needs a strong pulse of air to activate,
that the fridge compressor just can't provide, so it will leak incessantly, causing your tank to fill more slowly. You can disable the switch, however it's part of the pressure
regulator in the unit, so you will also be disabling your compressor's ability to shut off when it's full, making it unsafe, or in the very least, annoying since you'll end up
having to keep a constant eye on it.
Suffice it to say, having an air compressor with a separate pressure switch will make the job a whole lot easier.
Image Notes
1. Pressure cut off switch
Step 4:Installing The Fridge/cooler Compressor
Attaching the Fridge Comp. to the Tank:
For the sake of cost and simplicity, I simply zip tied the unit onto the tank. There is virtually no vibration and no worry about it working itself loose over time. You can
choose to create a mounting bracket, for cosmetic reasons, however, if you're like me, it doesn't have to be pretty. It just has to work.
Soldering and shaping the Line:
You may need to solder new line and add fittings to make your connection, however more often than not, you can just recycle what came with the air comp, and the
fridge. The line you see in the pic was existing from the air comp and was 1/4" I.D. (internal diameter). The line exiting the comp was 1/4" O.D. (outer diameter, so it was
simply a matter of a bit of sanding to make the connection. The rest is simply soldering pipe together much as you would if you were working with plumbing. Just lay
some flux paste in the joint, apply heat from the torch then let the solder fill the gap, and presto...you have a connection. You may need to make some dramatic curves in
your line in order to get it to line up with the intake on the tank. I like to keep a piece of flexi-shaft from an old weed trimmer on hand for just such issues. You can feed it
through the pipe, bend to the desired shape and then draw it out again. It's a great way to prevent kinks in the line that could otherwise interrupt the air flow.
Fixing Leaks:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Super-Silent-Compressor-Built-Out-Of-An-Old-Fridge/
I can't express, enough, how important it is to make sure you don't have any leaks. This is where the teflon tape comes in. Fridge comps. don't put out a lot of volume, so
any leak, no matter how small can seriously impede it's fill time. Simply put, check every connection, and tape everything.
Image Notes
1. Fancy zip tie connection
2. Solder here
Step 5:Wiring The Power And Pressure Switch
This is just a simple diagram I made up for a friend that wanted to build his own unit. Should make the set up easier.
Step 6:Finished
You're done. Everything else on the unit should stay the same and you can connect up to it as you normally would if it had a conventional compressor attached.
Hope you enjoyed the instructable.
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http://www.instructables.com/id/Super-Silent-Compressor-Built-Out-Of-An-Old-Fridge/
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Comments
10 comments Add Comment
zappenfusen says: Dec 31, 2013. 6:47 AM REPLY
What exactly is inside the sealed compressor case? A compressor, right? I've often wondered how the refrigerant compressors worked but have yet to take
a sawzall to one. Neat idea and one I'll try as I've a wealth of old r.t.u. compressors that lost pressure years ago pre freon ban. The cheap pancake I use
now I put in the yard and run a line into the garage due to the 110 db. noise.
antagonizer says: Dec 31, 2013. 7:28 AM REPLY
Basically yes, and a lot of oil as well that it uses to muffle the sound. I got curious once too.
zappenfusen says: Dec 31, 2013. 6:56 AM REPLY
Would the use of the compressor from a 3 ton roof top unit cause any specific problems as compared to a refrigerator compressor?
antagonizer says: Dec 31, 2013. 7:27 AM REPLY
If it runs off of 110 and you can pipe it in, I don't see why not. Pressure is regulated through the switch, so there's no risk of over overloading the tank.
With that criteria any refrigerant compressor would work.
FN64 says: Dec 18, 2013. 8:26 AM REPLY
Now that's pretty innovative! Could one of these fill a larger tank?? I realize it would take more time to fill but would it run for the required time without over
heating?
I have a 10 gallon compressor that's noisy as heck for running an air nailer (brads) This mod would be most welcomed if it's do-able.
Great 'ible..clear & easy to understand
Thanks..FN
antagonizer says: Dec 18, 2013. 10:45 AM REPLY
I've build one using a 10 gallon tank, and wasn't impressed at the fill time. Takes about 15 minutes to compress to 100psi. If you're willing to suffer the
wait, then it'll do the job for you.
stechi says: Dec 17, 2013. 10:54 AM REPLY
Very interesting ible.
From the video I gather you re planning to use this to supply air for an air brush. I t might be good to say that in the instructions, in case anyone thinks they
can use this for their scuba diving tanks or something.
What happened to the refrigerant? Old fridges contain nasty Freon that is illegal to discharge and newer ones contain methane etc, which is a bit explosive,
you might want to warn people about that.
antagonizer says: Dec 17, 2013. 11:27 AM REPLY
Scuba, btw requires upwards of 3000psi to fill, and any fridge/standard compressor is unlikely to exceed 130-140 so no worries. Also, a scuba
compressor pumps 'food grade' air which is different that what comes out of a standard compressor. Folks with a diving permit would likely be aware of
that.
antagonizer says: Dec 17, 2013. 11:22 AM REPLY
Great point. I'm not big on caveats since I figure people will figure those things out by themselves, but in this case it would make sense. I would hope, tho
that people would take their old units to the nearest recycling depot to be drained first, and not just start cutting lines haphazardly.
boatingman says: Dec 17, 2013. 10:34 AM REPLY
This is a great idea and I'm going to start on one today. Thank you.