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3:1 HAULING
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AVOID LIGHTNING
STRIKES
GEAR
GUIDE
176
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LAB
BEHIND THE
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PRODUCTS & TIPS
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CHOOSE THE
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APRIL 2014
DISPLAY UNTIL
MAY 6, 2014
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gEar guidE
2014
ben fullerton
issue 324
On ThE COvER:
Law student and tester hale
Melnick ventures onto the money
pitch of the Kor-Ingalls Route
(5.9+) on Castleton Tower, Utah.
Photo: Andew Burr
14 Editors choicE
23 BouldEring
Whether youre training at home or heading
out for a weekend trip, this gear will improve
your pebble-wrestling game.
31 sport
Top-of-the-line shoes, a two-in-one rope, a
surprisingly smart chalkbag, and more for the
bolt-clippers among us.
44 trad
For this gear-intensive discipline, nd a haulworthy crag bag, the low down on new hardware,
and the years best belay device innovation.
55 alpinE
Keep your racks light, ropes dry, ascents
quick, and feet happy with these comfortable
and durable high-country winners.
62 BasEcamp
Staying the night? Whether its car camping
at Shelf Road or a backcountry bivy in the
Tetons, heres the stuff to make camp home.
75 clinics
The skinny on removable bolts, reading
mountain weather, 3:1 haul systems, and
packing for the long haul like a pro.
contents
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*ALL gEAR PhOTOS WIThIn ARE COURTESy OF ThE MAnUFACTURER. ALL CLIMBIng And SCEnIC
ShOTS WIThIn ThE gEAR REvIEWS ARE By ThE ILLUSTRIOUS AndREW BURR.
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|1
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EDITORIAL
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Art Director
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adv:fablabweb.com
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Your Passion,
Our Mission:
Zamberlan, reliable partners in
outdoor adventure since 1929
Your climb requires a reliable and versatile alpine boot, and the
Fitz Roy delivers with a lightweight, flexible, and compact design.
The Zamberlan Vibram Mulaz sole with built-in semi-automatic crampon
compatibility provides exceptional underfoot stability and traction,
while the full rubber rand and microfiber/Ceramic Cordura uppers
offer puncture-resistant protection in a lightweight package.
Gore-Tex membranes guarantee your feet stay dry.
Conquer your challenge with confidence; conquer it with Fitz Roy.
hand-crafted in Italy
since 1929
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editors
note
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Gear maven and editorial MVP Julie Ellison rounded up more than 50 climbers to eld-test equipment so we
could bring you the expert reviews within this issue, the only gear guide on the newsstand dedicated to the sport of
climbing. Meet our all-star team, hear their best gear advice, and then turn the page to nd the right gear for you.
Jean Belanger
andrew Bydlon
Sam Calahan
Years climbing: 3
Tip: Duct tape. I x everything with that shit. Or tent
patches to get fancy.
PaiSley CloSe
Years climbing: 17
Tip: Keep extra layers in a
separate stuff sack to protect them from sharp gear.
dylan Connole
Paul Creme
liz drummond
Cory Fleagle
dougald maCdonald
hale melniCk
kate mittendorF
Bryan naniSta
kevin Pereira
Years climbing: 4
Tip: Isopropyl alcohol and a
nylon scrub brush make old
shoes super grippy.
alton riChardSon
Years climbing: 6
Tip: Put your gear away every time so you can inspect
and deal with any damage.
Brennah roSenthal
kel roSSiter
dave Sheldon
gary SorCher
zaCh SwaSman
Briana valoroSi
Years climbing: 22
Tip: Lube cams and biners
with super-ne graphite
powder.
Years climbing: 10
Tip: Pull your rope through a
stful of damp rags to clean
and inspect it.
Years climbing: 4
Tip: A quick x for a split in
a shoe is to melt the rubber
back with a decent lighter.
Years climbing: 20
Tip: Take a pair of needlenosed pliers to a wonky zipper and squeeze each side.
4|
Years climbing: 3
Tip: If youre a photographer
and hauling, look for the
lightest and fastest gear.
Years climbing: 6
Tip: You can replace a
busted trigger wire on a cam
with 2mm cord.
Years climbing: 4
Tip: Buy used climbing
shoes for the gym or other
training, to tear up.
Years climbing: 22
Tip: Use a little sunscreen
or cooking oil to lube your
cams and biners in the eld.
Years climbing: 23
Tip: Repair holes in your
pack as soon as they happen
to make it last longer.
Years climbing: 10
Tip: Properly store your
gear; its so simple, but
ofen neglected.
Years climbing: 35
Tip: Keep everything out
of the sun as much as possible. UV is a gear killer.
Years climbing: 2
Tip: Color-code your bags:
red for rst aid, yellow for
food and snacks, etc.
WorldMags.net
2014 gear guide
Years climbing: 6
Tip: Keep your gear out of
the dirt, which will wear
things out prematurely.
Years climbing: 15
Tip: Keep your rope clean
and your cams lubed, especially in the desert.
Years climbing: 8
Tip: Use a rope bag, and yell
at people when they put
your rope on the ground.
Years climbing: 2
Tip: When I get something
new, I prep it for use by waterproong and washing.
FACEBOOK.COM/ASCENDGEAR
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ADVENTURE TESTED
flash
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2014 gear guide
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Facundo
Langbehn Ferro
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flash
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2014 gear guide
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Scott Adamson
Unnamed
Zion national Park, Utah
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flash
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Scott Bennett
Africa (5.10+)
El Chorro, Spain
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FLASH
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Carlo Traversi
Unnamed
Brione, Switzerland
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Straight up
When you climb fast in the mountains and bring almost nothing,
everything you carry and what you carry it in takes on critical
importance. Patagonias
are straight up, utilitarian and versatile, with essential features that matter
most to alpinists and nothing more. Available in 25L, 35L and 45L.
patagonia.com/speed of light/techpacks
So sweet. Joel Kauffman on the first ascent of Super Domo (with brother Neil and Mikey Schaefer), a stunning
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eight-pitch line named for a favorite flavor at the scoop shop in El Chaltn. Patagonia, Argentina. MIKEY SCHAEFER
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editors choice
ANDREW BURR
Innovative, smart, lust-worthy, and just plain cool: 10 new must-have products that topped our testers lists
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awards
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editors choice
awards
BOULDERING
SPORT
TRAD
ALPINE
BASECAMP
16 |
$35; scarpa.com/edelrid
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2014 GEAR GUIDE
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LA SPORTIVA WOMENS SOLUTION
sticky-rubber Cinderella slippers
Although many lady climbers
have rocked the mens Solution
from La Sportiva since it came
out in 2006, this year the Italian
company made a few tweaks to
make it just right for the feminine
persuasion. Designers changed
the shape of the last to better
mimic a womans more slender
foot, and they tapered the Achilles. The result? The shoes wont
shift around when your feet are
in intensely delicate positions.
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| 17
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editors choice
awards
bouldering
sport
tenaya oasi
trad
alpine
basecamp
petzl tikka
rXp
perfect light
every time
If you live with a headlamp on
your dome, from alpine starts to
sauting fajita meat, check out
this addition to the Tikka line
with Petzls Reactive Lighting
technologyit automatically
adjusts the intensity and beam
pattern for optimal illumination.
Its totally hands-free, said one
tester. Peer into the darkness to nd your tent, and the
beam narrows and brightens.
Look down at the topo in your
notebook, and the beam dims
and softens. The secret? A
light sensor reads the amount
of ambient light and calibrates
output accordingly. For steady
output, use the lockout feature
to dial in desired brightness. The
RXP model (pictured) boasts a
215-lumen max and a stronger
beam for distance, while the R+
($75) packs up to 170 lumens.
With nightly use in camp, our
testers were able to use the
torch for ve days with no output concerns, and then charge
it with solar panels. Going long
with no mode of recharge?
Petzl sells a battery adapter
separately. Oops: The on/off
button is small and hard to nd
with gloves on.
$90; petzl.com
Typically high-end rock shoes fall in one of two camps: total exibility
for sensitivity and precision, relying on the strength of your foot to perform, or an aggressively downturned and stiff sole that directs power
into your toes. No longer will you have to subscribe to the extremes
thanks to the Tenaya Oasi. This downturned kick keeps a stiff forefoot
(funneling power to the front) but a highly pliable midfoot (creating
twisting functionality) for ideal performance on everything from steep
to slabby. I needed some smedging-specic power and precision for
a micro-nub on Horse Pens 40s Slush Puppy (V4), and my ultra-stifes
kept slipping off. The Oasis made me feel like I was standing on a ledge,
one tester said. Their ideal balance of stiff and ex nailed it. Then I
carried them to Yellow Bluff, Alabama, for some steep sport climbing,
and on to Yosemite for jamming on long routes. Theres nothing the Oasi cant do. With a cotton-lined
synthetic upper, the shoes are easy to wear for two-hour gym sessions, and they wont stretch outone
tester is going on six months with no loss of performance or deformation.
$165; trango.com
18 |
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2014 gear guide
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LA SPORTIVA MOUNTAINWARE
perfect crag apparel
Picture your home crag on a beautiful weekend afternoon.
If its anything like our haunts near Boulder, Colorado, its full
of climbers wearing jeans and T-shirts. What rock climbers
really wear for a day of cragging focuses acutely on comfort
and durability. That, and the fact that the best rock climbing
days are sunny and dry, is why were clad in so much cotton.
If youre not duking it out on a multi-day climb in the alpine,
theres no reason to get Everest-ready. This is why we took so
quickly to La Sportivas Mountainware, a collection of tanks,
Ts, shorts, pants, and hoodies designed with cragging as the
focus. In many cases, theyve taken blended fabrics to add just
the right amount of stretch or quick-drying capabilities, like
our editors new favorite jeans, the Kendo, made from cotton,
Cordura, and a touch of Lycra. Testers loved so many pieces
that we couldnt narrow it down to just one or two (or even
three), so we awarded the whole line. However, there were
a few standouts. The womens Oliana Short had a great midthigh length, which laid nicely under a harness, and was modest enough not to give a show. Other favorites were the Chaxi
Pant, Kalymnos Pant, Bishop Hoody, and the Astroman Tank
that was just old school enough to be cool. From single-pitch
days in Yosemite to bouldering in Little Rock City, Tennessee,
our testers chose Mountainware more than any other apparel.
Prices vary; sportiva.com
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| 19
THE RIGHT
TENT editors choice awards
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bouldering
FOR THE JOB
sport
FIND IT IN THE
trad
NEW HILLEBERG
alpine
basecamp
CATALOG!
$199; thenorthface.com
HILLEBERG.COM
or call toll free 1-866-848-8368
You hear it all the time: Down is light, toasty, and uffy but as
useless as a chocolate teapot when it gets wet. Synthetic insulations, meanwhile, are bulkier, not as warm for the weight, but still
insulate you during soak-outs. Forget all of it. With the ThermoBall
line, The North Face has created a jacket that looks, feels, and
heats like down but dries quickly and stays warm when wet. A true
game-changer in puffy jackets. This new synthetic insulation from
PrimaLoft mimics the shape of down clustersultra-ne bers
are teased into lofty, cotton balllike forms and contained in small
bafes to keep them from shifting. The heat is so instant that I
actually thought this was down, said one tester. Until it got wet
when I was ice climbing in Hyalite Canyon and it didnt lose all of
its insulating value. Then the light bulbs went off: Finally! A puffy
jacket I dont have to baby or use only in the right conditions. I
packed it for a soggy trip to the Pacic Northwest and an arid
adventure scumming up towers in Utah. A trim t was ideal for layering on top and wearing while climbing, but it wasnt so tight that
you couldnt easily get a eece midlayer underneath, and 15-denier
nylon stood up to puppy claws and light rock abrasion.
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MILLET OPPOSITE TRX 9/10
two for one!
The rope you bring to the sport
crag depends on what phase of the
redpointing process youre in: Toproping
and working a project requires a nice
fat cord while send attempts are much
better with a pleasantly skinny cord.
Instead of luggingand buyingtwo
separate lines, take the Opposite TRX
9/10, which is an 80-meter cord with
two different diameters. One end is
50 meters of 9mm thickness, and the
other is 30 meters of 10mm thickness,
so you can carry one cord for two
vastly different purposes. Not only did
our testers think this was a genius idea,
but they loved the performance of the
rope, from toproping in Rumney, New
Hampshire, to taking 15-foot falls on
Sonic Youth (5.13a) in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado. Millets Triaxiale braided
core has been proven in past years as a
strong and long-lasting design, and that
was no different with the Opposite. Six
months and two road-tripping sendbots couldnt get the rope to reveal
any durability aws, and it ran through
a variety of belay devices (both tube
style and assisted braking) smoothly.
Even the changeover point where it
goes from 9mm to 10mm was seamless
when moving through belay devices
and gear. It only comes in an 80-meter
version, and at an average of 63 g/m, it
weighs in at just over 11 pounds.
$300; milletusa.com
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scarpa.com/techno-x
ANDREW BURR
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bouldering
From training to approaching to sending, these 10 products have got you covered
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ARM RELIEF
bouldering
MASSAGER
SPORT
EDITORS CHOICE AWARDS
TRAD
forearm therapy
ALPINE
BASECAMP
EVOLV ICEMAN
thoughtfully featured midsize pad
By thinking outside the box, designers
built a crashpad that ignores standard
closure systems (ap or metal buckle and
strap) and instead employs a completely
simple but effective setup. Two-inch-wide
Velcro straps on the top, bottom, and side
slide through large, rectangular loops, and
then fold back to attach directly to itself
almost identical to the hook-and-loop closures of most Velcro shoes. The one thing
I hate about bouldering is constantly opening and closing your pad to move from one
spot to another, but the Iceman was way
faster and easier to use than every other
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know
Transgression Board
this
crashpads
1. Pads are made
with two types
of foam: stifer
closed-cell foam is
more durable and
is used as a thin
sheet on top (and
sometimes on the
bottom) to disperse
impact, while
thick, squishy
open-cell foam is
sandwiched in the
middle to cushion
falls.
high-level hangboarding
A lot of thought went into this
board. In fact, a Spanish climbing
coach with a masters degree in
sports science created it to accompany a training program she
devised for intermediate to advanced climbers. It has an overhanging design with eight edges
that vary in depth from 6mm
(trust us, thats small) to 18mm,
plus a large, comfortable jug at
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climbing.com
| 25
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bouldering
interview
SPORT
Mark Anderson
Product Designer,
Rock Prodigy Training Center
TRAD
ALPINE
BASECAMP
SCARPA STIX
powerful performance
Slippers are usually reserved for crack
and slab climbing, when you want the
exibility of a sock and the sensitivity
of an almost-bare foot, but that doesnt
really lend itself to the power needed
for bouldering and steep sport climbing.
Leave it to genius rock shoe designer
Heinz Mariacher to change the game by
creating a stiff and ber-downturned
Velcro- and lace-free shoe aimed at
high-end climbers. As a boulderer, Ive
always scoffed at slippers, but the Stix
easily competed with my favorite topnotch rock shoes, one Colorado tester
said after carrying them to Yosemite,
Joes Valley, Utah, and Little Rock City,
Tennessee. A stiff forefoot and X-tension
randing system transfer energy into the
pointed toe for grabbing and pushing off
26 |
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2014 GEAR GUIDE
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bouldering
know
this
SPORT
TRAD
rock shoes
ALPINE
BASECAMP
1. In most cases,
comfort and performance have an
inverse relationship: High performance for steep
climbing means
less comfort, and
ultimate comfort
for long routes
means less performance. This gap
has closed in recent
years, but take it
into account for the
type of climbing
you do most often.
2. Flat-lasted shoes
with thick rubber
(4.5 to 5mm) are
great for edging
and will give your
feet support for
all-day routes.
3. Downturned
and asymmetric
(pointed toe) lasts
are excellent for
anything from vertical to overhangs.
These direct power
to your toe for tiny
pockets and nubs.
28 |
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2014 GEAR GUIDE
4. Certain brands
will t specic foot
types better than
others, and sizing
between brands
varies, so nd a
brand that works
for you. Find more
reviews on
climbing.com/gear.
5. Rock shoes
should be tight
but not painful,
especially in the
beginning. Aim
for a shoe that
contacts your foot
completely, with no
dead space in the
toe or heel.
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Salewa CapSiCo
approach shoe turned slip-on
The sideways glances our testers shot each other said it all: They were
skeptical. Is this an approach shoe or a Croc? said one. The beauty behind this kick, though, is that its both. You get a supportive shoe for the
hike in and something thats easy oneasy off for the two dozen times
youre squeezing into and out of your rock shoes. The Capsico offers a
sturdy, sticky rubbersoled approach shoe that turns into a comfy clog
with the ick of a wide rubber band. On crumbling, rocky approaches
in Joes Valley, Utah, and Red Rock, Nevada, testers positioned the band
in the back and tightened the cinchable laces for reliable scrambling,
but once at the crag, they could put the band in the front and fold
down the back of the shoe for a cozy slip-on. This is two shoes in one,
meaning I can pack less stuff, one tester said. Plus, the Capsico is more
like foot therapy than my usual go-to, imsy ip-ops. Thats thanks to
the wide forefoot, which gave cramped toes room to spread out and
breathe, and a rubber toe bumper kept them stub-free. While a touch
loose for steep sidehilling, they are worthy hikersone tester carried
a 20-pound pack on long approaches in Indian Creek and Castle Valley,
Utah. Olfactory alert: Too much barefoot use may result in earlierthan-anticipated funk, as one tester reported. Socks recommended,
especially for the hike in and out.
$109; salewa.com
Tr y it...
youll
like it!
interview
Enrico Bucciol
Product Designer, Salewa Capsico
The inspiration for this approach shoe-cum-clog came from the
pain that climbers put their feet through on a daily basis. Italian
Enrico Bucciol says, Climbers are a little crazy in that they accept to sufer when they climb to get performance, but when you
nish your route, you desire comfort to recover your painful feet.
We wanted to guarantee that comfort after a climb, but a shoe
that was only comfortable wasnt going to stand out or be successful in the market. Thats where the smart solution of getting
two shoes in one came in. About two and a half years ago, we
had the idea of this transformer shoe, and the team immediately
started sketching and creating prototypes. The heel belt holds
the foot in place when walking up or downhill, and the laces
attach to pieces of webbing that run directly down to the sole
[instead of attaching to holes in fabric]. This adds structure and
support to the upper every time you cinch the laces down. The
Capsico added something unique to the racks that was missing.
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www.autobelay.com
877-565-6885
Designed for climbers, engineered for safety.
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sport
ANDREW BURR
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interview
sport
trad
Marc Gutirrez and Jos Luis Gallego live and breathe rock
climbing. So its not surprising that the inspiration for the
Oasi came while climbing on the Mediterranean coast after
a discussion about wanting a shoe that had the right balance
between beauty, functionality, and comfort. The perfect shoe,
Gallego says, would be the one that ofers the ideal response
to what the foot demands, which is comfort, efciency, and
the right performance in any situation. According to him, a
climbing shoe doesnt need to be painful since it wont respond
to your foot if it hurts. After two years of hard work in research
and development, the Oasi was born, representing all of these
features. Designers had the goal from the beginning to make
a highly specialized shoe thats versatile at the same time, one
that would make climbing more intuitive. By including stifness
in some areas and exibility in others, this shoe meets that goal.
The small details like guring out the width of the shoe and
adjusting the strap system were constantly tweaked. Reaching
a point where the Oasi is aggressive and balanced at the same
time, with a wide range of responses, and always with comfort,
was something difcult to achieve, Gallego says.
alpine
basecamp
32 |
tenaya oasi
max versatility, max performance
Theyre stiff yet supple, and that perfect combination gives them a better feel and more uses than
all the other high-performance rock shoes out there.
Plus, the brilliant lacing system ts a wider variety of
feet. Read the full review on page 18.
$165; trango.com
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2014 gear guide
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know
BLUEWATER WAVE 9.3
skinny size, fat function
If youre looking to slim down
in rope size but have been hesitant because of durability concerns, look no further. By upping
the amount of sheath on the
rope with a super-tight braided
structure, you get more stiffness, less op, and ultimately a
longer lifespan. While the core
still provides the strength of
your cord, a denser sheath will
add rigidity so it has a thicker
feel without added width or
weight. It also means more material standing between the core
and agents of abrasion. Thanks
to that tight outer material,
This rope slid through gear like
water through a sieve, so it was
great for long routes where rope
drag would otherwise be an
issue, one tester said. Despite
the thin diameter, which usually
means more dynamic elongation, the stretch on this was
minimal when one tester took
about seven falls at the crux of
Horizontal Mambo (5.13a), Potash Road, Utah. I would deem
the slogan of this rope, Worry
this
ropes
1. All modern
climbing ropes
have an inner core,
which gives a rope
its strength, and
an outer sheath,
which protects the
core.
2. Thick diameter
(10mm and up)
means more
durability. Thin
(8.6mm to 9.9mm)
means less
weight and easier
handling, but also
more stretch and
quicker wear.
3. A primer in
single, half, and
twin ropes: A
single rope is
just that and is
sufcient for most
climbing. Half
(or double) ropes
are skinnier than
singles. You tie into
both but clip each
into separate pieces
of protection,
handy on wandery
routes and for long
rappels (hello,
alpine). Twin ropes
are even skinnier,
but they must both
be clipped together
into every piece.
Not many Americans use them, but
twins ofer security
if rope-cutting is a
concern.
4. Dry treatments
repel water and
increase protection
against dirt and
abrasion.
5. Learn when
to retire a rope:
climbing.com/
retire-gear.
EDELRID HMS
STRIKE SAFELOCK
twice the safety
This belay biner earned unanimous
praise from our test team. With Edelrids unique slide-gate locking mechanism, the biner automatically locks
itself when closed, and you can unlock
it with a simple ick of your thumb
no twisting, screwing, or secret-switch
locating. That leaves your other ngers
to lift the inner anti-cross-loading gate
that runs across the bottom. Not only
does this inside bar keep the belay
biner from cross-loading (a dangerous
situation where the biner is sideways
hence, less safeon the belay loop),
but it also provides a second locking
mechanism for the carabiner by propping the gate closed. This anti-crossloading double locker is as safe as it
gets, one tester said. One gripe is that
it took a few times to get used to having to lift the inner gate just to open
the biner, but it quickly became second
nature. And, as Edelrid describes it,
the opening procedure is deliberately
complex, so it wont accidentally open
in any situation.
$22; scarpa.com/edelrid
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| 33
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VOLTA 9.2
Tie in to a new level of performance.
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awards
WorldMags.neteditors choicebouldering
lowa red eagle
sport
trad
alpine
basecamp
$165; lowaboots.com
mammut infinity
classic 9.5
bargain skinny rope
When a respected rope manufacturer sets out to
make an all-around cord that is friendly to every type
of budget, this is what we call a win-win-win situation. The 9.5mm diameter is ideal for toproping and
projecting when it will experience substantial abrasion and abuse, but its light enough at 57 g/m that
on a 30-meter pitch, youll only be dragging about 3.7
pounds behind you at the very top. Testers thought
this rope felt and handled like a skinnier cord, too:
It was easy to clip, even in my teeny-tiny ultra-light
biners, one tester said. Because of the Innity Classics excellent all-around performance and bargainbasement price, this rope is ideal for those looking to
make the leap into sub-10mm ropes. Mammut saved
cost by skipping the dry treatment, which is a pricey
process that makes ropes suitable for ice and snow
but can be unnecessary for people in drier climates
who stick to only rock. For handling, durability, and
overall feel, this rope competes with the best of
the best, and its unheard of to offer such a quality
line at such a low price, said another trad and sport
climbing user.
$150 (60m); mammut.ch
petzl Kab
new take on a classic design
At rst glance this pack looks just like a bike messenger bag, but pull back the
large top ap on it to reveal a spacious 55 x 55 rope tarp and a voluminous
bucket for gear. Petzl says it holds up to 110 meters of rope, and since none of our
testers carry that much cord (we tested with 70m cords), they lled the rest of
the space with sport rack, shoes, and water; and inner and outer sundries pockets
were great for keys and phone. It was just enough to hold all the days necessities
for a warm day of climbing. Sport climbers appreciated the urban style of the Kab
combined with the technical functionality of other tube-style rope bags on the
market. With a hipbelt strap usually reserved for actual bike messengers, the Kab
stays in place if you are on uneven terrain (or on a bike). Although the padding
on the single shoulder strap did carry comfortably for short jaunts, we wouldnt
recommend it for long slogs where youll probably want a larger pack anyway.
$50; petzl.com
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climbing.com
| 35
sport
TRAD
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MAMMUT
REALIZATION PANT
the perfect climbing pant
ALPINE
BASECAMP
EVOLV NEXXO
sharmas new shoe
Theyre soft, aggressive, and t like a customized glove, one tester said who
loved the Nexxos overall feel and response after taking them to pocket paradise
Ten Sleep, Wyoming. The Nexxo shined on the slabby then super-steep Aunt
Jemimas Bisquick Thunderdome (5.12+), requiring both delicate edging and powerful pulling. After experiencing their breakout performance, our testers were
not surprised to learn that Chris Sharma is the man behind this sport-specic
slipper hybrid. (Evolv calls it a hybrid because although it is constructed like a
slipper, the Velcro strap offers more security and a vacuum t.) The Nexxo has
some of the same features as the Shaman (the rst shoe from Sharma), which
made it a favorite high-performance shoe, including the Love Bump that pushes
toes into an arched and precision-improving position, and the Knuckle Box that
makes this position fairly comfortable (and not torturous). These shoes started
out stiff and difcult to put on, but after a few wears, they began to ex and
provide increased sensitivity more on par with other slippers. Credit Evolvs new
Power System (EPow) that provides tension and support while maintaining some
malleability, especially in the toe and forefoot.
$145; evolvsports.com
interview
Fritz Shaefer
Product Manager, Mammut Realization Pant
As a manufacturer of both harnesses and climbing apparel, it seemed
obvious to try and combine a harness with shorts, Fritz Shaefer says.
Mammuts idea for the pants came from the shorts, which came from
a college thesis statement in 2008 by then-student and now current
designer Benno Reichard. He wrote about the possibility of integrating
a load-bearing structure into a pair of shorts. In 2011, after the rst prototypes had passed a standard fall test, Mammuts team began climbing
with them in the gym and outside. In the beginning, we had no idea
whether all this would work and if the nal product would perform at
all, Shaefer says. But after sponsored athletes came back with positive
reviews, the designers knew they had created a successful product for
the highest levels of climbing. The biggest change from the original
idea was realizing that the material of lightweight shorts alone would
not be durable enough for repeated falls, no matter the design, so they
integrated a webbing harness into the shorts instead. The durable material still breathes well and feels nice on the skin with a mesh liner for
temperature control. Shaefer says, Its something innovative that ofers
striking benets compared to standard harnesses; we simply went about
doing it in an unexpected way.
36 |
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2014 GEAR GUIDE
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sport
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TRANGO REACT DRAW
durable project quickdraw
TRAD
ALPINE
BASECAMP
know
this
harnesses
1. Adjustable leg
loops are great for
ice climbers and
mountaineers who
need to accommodate layers;
xed leg loops save
weight.
2. Measure your
true waist (above
your hips) to nd
the correct size.
3. It should be
snug but not tight,
so you can move
freely. Make sure
all the straps are
cinched down (and
doubled back if
necessary) with a
few extra inches
of tail.
4. Big wall and
trad setups have
max padding for
hours of hanging. Sport rigs are
lighter with just
enough cushion to
soften falls.
5. Features vary by
discipline: number
and orientation of
gear loops, haul
loop, belay loop,
ice-clipper slots,
and drop seat (for
easier bathroom
breaks).
38 |
EDELRID CYRUS
streamlined comfort
Minimalist-harness fans are going to wonder why
they spent so many years cutting off circulation to
their legs by hanging in rigs that skimped on material to cut weight. Edelrid took a different approach
by using textiles that were inherently lighter so a
larger amount could be included without weighing the whole thing down. They call it 3D-Vent
technology, but its more or less a layer of thin foam
wrapped in mesh, with supportive, stiff webbing
strips that wrap around your torso and legs, adding
some rigidity and only a little bit of weight. Both
the hipbelt and the leg loops are ultra-wide to
maximize the contact zone, which prevents pressure
points, but the mesh and perforations in the foam
keep the harness extremely light and breathable.
It feels more like sitting in a padded chair instead
of a complicated pattern of webbing, like other
harnesses, one tester said. Another factor that contributes to comfort is the ergonomic shape of the
hipbelt and leg loops: They taper out slightly at the
top and the bottom, so they wrap around your esh
when the harness is weighted, instead of digging in.
Four stiff, plastic gear loops are suitable for racking
whatever your route requires, and a zippy single
buckle closes and opens fast.
$115; scarpa.com/edelrid
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2014 GEAR GUIDE
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OFFICIAL
PARTNER
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sport
TRAD
ALPINE
BASECAMP
ARCTERYX APERTURE
no-spill chalkbag
You could take an old jeans pocket and a length of twine and make a passable chalkbag. Thats why we review so few of themits usually just a matter
of splitting hairs about fabrics. Not so with the downright revolutionary Aperture. Its the only chalkbag Ive ever used where chalk blowout is not a concern, said one tester. Just twist the top of the bag a turn and a half and snap
it shut. Chalk stays put, even when shoved in a pack. The sub-three-ounce
bag is made from a burly nylon on the base and a thin ripstop polyester on the
twistable portion. A stiffened rim keeps the bag wide open, and a plastic belt
attachment is shaped to double as a beer opener. Ding: After seven months of
use, our tester reported wear and tear (literally) along the rim of the opening
and on the twistable portion. But its still his favorite chalkbag.
$29 (small), $35 (large); arcteryx.com
SCARPA VITAMIN
light but burly approach shoes
One tester described these as a paradox, They wear like running shoes, but
theyve been sturdy, stable, and durable throughout my testing. A polyurethane
midsole was dense enough to provide all-day support and shock-absorbing
comfort when our tester took them to Venezuela for a boulder-nding mission.
They were my go-to shoe because of their technical climbing abilities, stability
to prevent foot fatigue, and ultimate comfort at the end of a long day, he said.
A huge climbing zone of at, non-lugged rubber on the front toe and inside
forefoot made these shoes feel reliable and agile on anything between fourth
class and 5.5, and large lugs in the heel provided excellent purchase on loose
descents. Despite several long days in the Vitamin, a lining with 37.5 technology (formerly Cocona) wicked sweat from the foot and thus prevented odor
buildup. These shoes t wide-footed testers slightly better, but with the suede
upper that molds to your foot and lacing down to the toe, you can dial in a
perfect t by cranking on the laces. Wear them all day, and then rock them at
basecamp; this is your quiver-of-one approach shoe.
$199; scarpa.com
40 |
interview
Laurent Bouvet
Product Designer, Millet Opposite TRX 9/10
What do two French best friends talk about when
they go climbing at the local crag? Climbing, gear,
and women. This is where the inspiration for
Millets innovative Opposite TRX 9/10 rope came
from. Laurent Bouvet wanted one rope that would
do it all, saying that some climbing days leave
you beat after an all-day session, while on others,
youre mindful of your energy and you come up
with new ideas to nish your project. A rope with
diferent sizes is not a new idea, but the innovation
is having a solid, standard rope on each side. This
was part of his plan, making sure that his design
would be one step beyond the ropes already on the
market. Its an upgrade of the variable-diameter
technology, but its a brand new angle of view
concerning the practice, Bouvet says. In the fall of
2012, the Millet team began testing the rope, seeing if the idea would actually work, and two years
later the innovative Opposite is out.
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2014 GEAR GUIDE
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sport
trad
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omega pacific dura
draw
timestamped perma-draw
alpine
basecamp
$34; trango.com
la sportiva oxygym
machine-washable rock shoe
Pay attention, gym rats! The days
of sour, funky, repugnant climbing
shoes are over. Not only are these
mid-performance shoes machinewashable (throw em in with regular
detergent and then air dry, they wont
shrink, stretch, or change shape), but
theyre also designed with sweaty,
stinky feet in mind. The upper is three
layers: a perforated outer for breathability, microber in the middle for
structure, and a wicking fabric thats
lined with silver to prevent smell and
keep you dry. These shoes were also
42 |
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2014 gear guide
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MAMMUT NEON CRAG 28
urban woodsmans crag pack
If you believe function and style go hand in hand, youll love
the Neon Crag. While it looks like a basic daypack, ip back
the lid to discover a gaping opening. It makes stufng and
locating crucial gear a cinch, and two large racking loops on
the inside offer just enough organization for quickdraws, belay
device, and personal tether. A zippered guidebook pocket on
the outside makes on-the-y beta-checks easy, like when one
tester consulted the guidebook a half-dozen times on the
way to French Cattle Ranch in Ten Sleep, Wyoming. Everyone
who used it touted the clean and low-prole design that
tapered at the bottom, so when compared to other packs, it
felt like a sports car instead of a sport utility vehicle. Plus,
contoured shoulder straps and hipbelt hugged the body for
seamless carrying. The outer canvas fabric has a sleek, nontechnical look with a natural wax-based DWR treatment that
offered improved durability and function. One thoughtful
design feature was the packs pleated side panels. This enabled
the pack to compress or expand for different loads; it looks
and carries exactly the same when its lled to the brim and
when its only half-full. This is my ideal sport climbing hauler
because it has everything I need and nothing I dont, one
tester said. Doesnt hurt that its only 100 clams, either.
$100; mammut.ch
BARTLETT
REALLY VALUES
PEOPLE.
THEY CARE
ABOUT OUR
SAFETY, OUR
SCHEDULES
AND WE ALL
FEEL LIKE
FAMILY.
RAMON, FOREMAN,
HIRED 2004
Enhance your skills and advance your career with the #1 tree and shrub care
company in the world.
bartlett.com/careers
An equal opportunity employer.
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ANDREW BURR
trad
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evolv addict slipper
keep jammin in a
stif slip-on
trad
alpine
basecamp
$150; veten.com
interview
Andy Coutant and
Austin Robbs
Product Designers, The North Face Cinder
46 |
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2014 gear guide
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Petzl Meteor
Metolius 000
know
Micro tcu
this
upgraded favorite
super-tiny pro
Weighing in at less than an ounce, this
triple zero is the lightest micro-cam on
the market. Its range is from .26 inches
to .4 inches, meaning it can t in places
where other pro doesnt stand a chance.
Rated to 5kN, its intended purely as
an aid piece. Our test unit was an early
model, clearly labeled not for climbing.
Full disclosure, however, we couldnt
resist scouting out a thin crack to give it a
whirl (not far off the deck, promise). The
three machined cam lobes, barely wider
than the steel cable, when retracted,
bite solidly, and the cables ex for funky
placements. Stay tuned for a full review.
$60; metoliusclimbing.com
helmets
1. Comfort is the
most important
factor when it
comes to buying
a helmet. If your
helmet doesnt
feel good on your
noggin, youll never
wear it.
2. Fit: It should
sit squarely on
your head, not
forward, backward,
or of to the side,
and it should feel
snug around the
forehead without
pressure points.
3. Hard shell
helmets have a
rigid outer shell
and webbing
suspension, similar
to a construction
hard hatgreat
for ice climbing,
mountaineering, and outdoor
groups. Foam
models, similar to
bicycle helmets,
are thick EPS foam
with a polycarbonate shell
lightweight and
comfortable but
should be retired
after an impact.
Hybrid helmets
are a combo, great
for all-around use,
though many have
less side protection
than foam helmets.
4. For tons of info
on how to t a helmet, developments
in design and
testing regulations,
and the best ways
to prevent head
injuries, check
out climbing.com/
news/no-brainerhelmet.
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climbing.com
| 47
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petzl bolsa
rope backpack
trad
cams
Dont fret about the thin diameter on the newest rope from Edelrids
Pro Line; theyve put three different nishing treatments on it to
optimize durability. It still has a supple and exible feel, one tester
said after taking it to a new secret crag in the much-traveled Boulder
Canyon, Colorado. Pro Shield, Dry Shield, and Thermo Shield treat both
the entire unit and individual yarn bers to increase dirt and water
resistance while maintaining easy clipping, knotting, untying, and coiling. Our testers deemed this great for long days plugging gear because
the Eagle Light stood up to tons of abrasion and running over edges,
as well as catching a few big whips, and had no signs of wear. Plus, it
ran through all belay devices and carabiners like a dream. Even after
knotting it into a rats nest right out of the package, our tester found it
didnt twist up or kink once he got it properly aked.
$40; petzl.com
alpine
basecamp
know
this
48 |
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2014 gear guide
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interview
EdElrid PurE SlidEr
Daniel Gebel and
Richard Heinz
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climbing.com
| 49
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know
this
SPORT
trad
belay devices
ALPINE
BASECAMP
SCARPA TECHNO X
high performance for all-day wear
This Italian shoe company proved that comfort
doesnt mean sacricing performance and vice versa
with the new at-lasted Techno X. Testers loved the
stiffness for standing on the patina akes of Skyline
(5.8) and the shoes versatility for simultaneous jamming and dime-edging on Wheat Thin (5.7), both in
City of Rocks, Idaho. I could climb easy ve-pitch
routes just as well as I could pull hard on vertical,
techy 5.11, one tester said. They had a tight feeling,
which inspired condence on tiny footholds, but they
werent so tight that I had to take them off at every
50 |
WorldMags.net
2014 GEAR GUIDE
3. Sport climbers
love assistedbraking devices for
catching repeated
falls or holding a
climber who wants
to hang.
4. Each assistedbraking device
has idiosyncrasies
and corresponding best practices.
Whatever device
you choose, it will
take some getting
used to. Research
the manufacturers
recommended
usage guidelines
and follow them
exactly.
5. Make sure your
ropes diameter will
t in your chosen
belay device,
especially as ropes
across the board
get skinnier.
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trad
alpine
basecamp
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petzl contact 9.8
outdoor research
handbrake gloves
versatile workhorse
rope
interview
Jon Jonckers
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Theodolite
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ANDREW BURR
Rock, ice, or snow, these tester-approved toys will get you to the top
alpine
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black diamond speed 55
active suspension, comfy carrying
alpine
basecamp
$190; blackdiamondequipment.com
56 |
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2014 gear guide
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ASOLO ALTA VIA GV
know
this
crampons
1. The two main
types are general
mountaineering
and ice climbing crampons.
Mountaineering
pons are better
for horizontal
movement, and ice
climbing spikes are
designed for vertical climbing.
2. Make sure your
chosen boots t
the attachment
style. Strap-ons
(best for mountaineering) t all
boots; step-ins (or
automatic) require
both a toe and a
heel welt (good for
vertical ice); and
hybrids (or semiautomatic) just
need a heel welt
and are suitable for
both vertical and
horizontal.
3. Dual frontpoints
are more stable,
especially in snow,
but a monopoint
is more precise,
perfect for ice and
mixed.
4. Anti-balling
plates are small
pieces of plastic
that keep snow and
ice from building
up beneath the
crampon, which
can add weight and
make it harder to
walk.
5. Steel is more
durable but
heavier; aluminum
is lighter but less
burly. Some have
replaceable frontpoints.
BEAL UNICORE
GULLY 7.3
crazy-light half
rope
Light is right in the high country,
and the Gully 7.3mm half ropes
have the lowest weight of any
other rope on the market at 36
g/m. Yep, thats right, less than
5 pounds for 60 meters. Since
its rated as a twin rope as well,
testers took it on ice in New
Hampshire and wandery routes in
Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, and
loved the stiff and durable feel.
Even though its the thinnest
rope Ive ever climbed on, it still
felt substantial in my hands and
running through the belay device,
one tester said of the tight sheath
weave and Golden Dry treatment.
Plus, the Unicore technology
gave users extra peace of mind
in sketchy terrain. Unicore is a
thin lament between the sheath
and the core that bonds the
two together so if the rope gets
chopped, the sheath wont slide
down and expose more of the
strength-giving core. The Gullys
Golden Dry treatment, Beals proprietary process, repelled water
from drippy ice and when left in
the snow during belays.
$180 (50m), $210
(60m), $250 (70m);
libertymountainclimbing.com
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| 57
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PATAGONIA ASCENSIONIST 45
comfortable-carrying minimalist
TRAD
alpine
BASECAMP
interview
Scott Bryan
Product Designer, Patagonia
Ascensionist Pack
Spring 2014 marks Patagonias
resurgence into the technicalpack market, says Scott Bryan.
2006 was the last time Patagonia ofered an alpine-specic
pack, and Bryan felt it was time
to bring it back with a minimalist, lightweight design. The
inspiration came from alpinists
who wanted a simple technical
pack in an age of overly complex
gear. After years of messing
around with prototypes, serious
development started about two
years ago by sending the bag
out to a team of ambassadors
and staf members. The primary
goal was to make sure the pack
had only the features alpinists
needed, and then to make those
features state of the art. These
included essentials like ice tool
attachments, daisy chains on
the sides, sleeves for picks, and
compression straps. After hearing from climbers that they were
taking of the lids of other packs
on expeditions, the unique
spindrift collar was designed.
Its intended to be easy to use
but very protective at the same
time. When closed, the top is
smooth to shed snow and water
so everything stays dry, and a
small pocket provides easy access to the things you need. The
shoulder straps were cut and
designed to comfortably t and
move with the torso. The team
also experimented with diferent
frames, trying to get it as light
as possible, eventually settling
on aluminum and mesh fabric.
Our goal from the very beginning was to design something
that met the demands of our
alpine ambassadors. To include
everything you need and nothing you dont.
58 |
$25; metoliusclimbing.com
$70; libertymountainclimbing.com
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2014 GEAR GUIDE
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know
BLACK DIAMOND
this
MAGNETRON VAPORLOCK
alpine
BASECAMP
60 |
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2014 GEAR GUIDE
ice tools
1. For general
mountaineering,
the standard is
a straight, long
shaftusually
55 to 75cmfor
walking and
shoving into snow,
with a pick thats
slightly curved for
purchase when
self-arresting.
2. Choose an ice
axe length based
on your height and
arm length. While
standing with arms
relaxed at your
sides, the spike
should not quite
touch the ground.
Steeper terrain?
Short axe is better.
Flatter terrain?
Longer axe.
3. Technical ice
tools have a curved,
shorter shaft45
to 55cmwith
removable picks
aggressively angled
down for swinging
into vertical ice.
For versatility, get
modular heads that
you can switch out.
4. Ice tools have a
rubber grip (some
with a pinky rest),
and some have
a double grip so
you can choke up
on the tool for a
higher reach or
matching.
5. Few use leashes
on vertical ice anymore, but consider
an umbilical leash
(rated bungees that
connect tools to
your harness) for
long routes.
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LOWA FALCO LACES
alpine comfort, sporty performance
A darkhorse of our shoe
testing, this lace-up got tons
of high-country use from
Wyomings Wind Rivers to
Colorados Front Range.
Two testers also rocked
these for 5.10 crack climbs
in Indian Creek, In Search
of Suds (5.10+) on Washer Woman Tower, Utah, and the Kor-Ingalls
Route (5.9+) on Castleton Tower, near Moab, Utah, and both were
impressed by the level of performance they got out of this slightly
downturned stife. The last pitch on Washer Woman is a balancing, edging, smearing scarefest, but I felt condent with my Falcos
on, one of them said. Lowa is using a proprietary rubber called
LC SuperGrip that fared just as well on limestone, sandstone, and
granite as other compounds. The interior boasts an anti-bacterial
lining to mitigate stench. Consensus? Minimal odor after ve
months of use. Both testers were able to crank the laces all the way
down for jamming at the Optimator Wall in the Creek, but loosen
the shoes enough to wear with thin socks when temps dipped into
the 30s. Extra rubber up and over the toe was ideal for stufng feet
into hand cracks, too. Durability ding: Stitching on one testers shoe
started coming undone, but it was after six months of use.
$140; lowaboots.com
$149; salewa.us
FIND A GUIDE
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BECOME ONE
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LA SPORTIVA MOUNTAINWARE
TRAD
ALPINE
basecamp
MARMOT ESSENCE
afordable ultra-light shell
At a mere six ounces, the weight of
the Essence embodies the name. But
dont go thinking its a lightweight. This is
one bomber, take-everywhere hard shell.
Testers found it completely waterproof
for downpours in the Pacic Northwest,
and they billed it as mega-durable after
scraping it against granite in the Cascades.
It still looks perfect, the tester said. The
lightweight key is in the 2.5-layer new
NanoPro Membrain fabric incorporated
into a stripped-down shell (open slits
instead of pit zips, non-adjustable cuffs,
single chest pocket), which wont weigh you down. Not to mention the weight-to-waterproof-to-cost ratio is unbeatable.
$200; marmot.com
64 |
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2014 GEAR GUIDE
$89; arcteryx.com
apparel
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Athletes like Chris Sharma use Sterling
ropes to undertake some of the most
astonishing and challenging adventures
on the planet. Because every climbing
experience is diferent, we strive to make
ropes that perform fawlessly under any
conditions. We have the worlds most well
respected climbers using and evaluating
our products. We review the data and listen
to our testers, getting them involved to gain
better insight on how our ropes perform.
Thats why Sterling developed Better
Braid Technology. This multi-level
process involves the highest quality fbers
state-of-the-art equipment, , innovative
engineering, continual testing and
improvement, and a certifed quality
control system. We do this as part of our
ongoing quest to make rope and cord
products that meet the highest standards.
Better Braid Technology is one way our
products elevate your experience. Where
you choose to take them is up to you.
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www.sterlingrope.com
1-800-788-7673
basecamp
rakkup
guidebook
meets GPS
This iPhone app
gives you turn-byturn directions, a
compass to guide
you, and photos to
get you from your
car or camp to the
base of your climb.
Wall and individual
route explanations
are packed with
beta, including
zoomable topos,
rack info, descent
info, and pitch
descriptions. Read
the full review on
page 16.
$20; zippo.com
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PETZL TIKKA RXP
the right light
This addition to the Tikka line automatically adjusts its output and
beam for the best lighting wherever you look. Peer into the darkness to
nd your tent, and the beam
narrows and brightens. Look
down at the topo in your
notebook, and the beam dims
and softens. Its hands-free and
perfect in all conditions. Read
the full review on page 18.
$90; petzl.com
tech
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{TENTS}
SPORT
TRAD
ALPINE
$240; mountainhardwear.com
$339; sierradesigns.com
{BAGS / PADS}
NEMO CODA 0
temperatureregulating bag
SIERRA DESIGNS
BACKCOUNTRY BED
high-quality snoozing
With a wide interior and down
blanket to tuck around your face,
this system mimics my bed at home.
Im never going back to a regular
bag. Read the full review on page 18.
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{ACCESSORIES}
kitchen in a box
camp
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CLIMBING.COM
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SPORT
TRAD
ALPINE
basecamp
KIND HEALTHY
GRAINS BARS
delicious and chewy
convenience
Hooray for light and delightfully chewy (and
not my jaw hurts chewy)! Included in each
bar are ve super grains: oats, millet, quinoa,
amaranth, and buckwheat that provide carbs,
protein, and fat for an extra boost when you
need it. One sensitive-gut tester gobbled
these with ease, which kept her energized
throughout a 12-hour day of alpine climbing in
Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.
MODERN OATS
light, quick breakfast
Whats easier than adding hot water
to a cup and waiting three minutes?
Practically nothing, which is why Modern
Oats oatmeal is unbeatable as a climbers
breakfast. Youll be fueled and at your
climb faster than you can say, Yum!
The container it comes in doubles as the
package, cooking vessel, and the bowl, so
all you dirty is your spoon. Whole grains,
seeds, nuts, and superfruits (like goji
and acai berries) offer clean and healthy
energy, protein, and necessary ber. Goji
blueberry and apple walnut were our
favorite avors. Bonus: Each cup has a
recipe to make two oatmeal cookies.
$19.50 (6 cups), $39 (12 cups);
modernoats.com
westernmountaineering.com
P R O M OT I O N
MiniMuM Weight.
superior perforMance.
bartlett.com/careers
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featheredfriends.com
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HALFPOPS
SETTON FARMS PISTACHIO CHEWY BITES
smart, simple fuel
Bars are easy to pack, but sometimes the processed
ingredients hit your stomach like a brick. Enter the Pistachio
Chewy Bites, which are made of three main, energy-giving ingredients: pistachios, cranberries, and agave nectar. Theyre
just sweet enough to keep me interested, but have tons of
ber and protein to keep my body on track, one tester said.
Health-tweakers will love that theyre vegan and gluten- and
dairy-free, too.
$6 (6 pack), $15 (16 pack); settonfarms.com
GO GNARLY PROTEIN
WELCOME TO THE
TRAD
GALAXY
The Trad Climbers Bible
the defnitive source for
the trad climbers art.
food
All climbing is an evershifting adventure that
answers old questions
in fresh ways. . . . weve
attempted to evoke the
whole damn thing, a kind of
trad galaxy spanning both
of our careers, believing the
goods lay more in the arc of
the whole rhubarb than in
any of the subplots.
John Long,
from the foreword
FalconGuides.com
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GSI HALULITE 3.2L
invite your neighbors
TRAD
ALPINE
basecamp
SOTO WINDMASTER
OD-1RX
windproof versatility
Integrated cook systems do a great
job of deecting wind, but you cant use
multiple pots or frying pans. Meanwhile,
many pocket stoves suffer in the face of
a stiff breeze. Solution? Sotos ingenious
(and aptly named) heater. A wide, concave
burner head acts as a windshield and
places the ame closer to the pot. Testers
waiting out rain and 30mph winds in Colorados Never Summer Wilderness were
able make hot drinks when another stove
failed. The WindMaster (2.6 oz.) comes
with a tiny integrated pot support, just
big enough for a personal cook pot.
$75; sotooutdoors.com
$100; primuscamping.com
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cooking
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CLINICS
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75
BEGIN HERE
GUIDES
TIP
SHOP TECH
IN SESSION
BEGIN HERE
Clouds dissipate
Transitioning to
cumulonimbus
Prevailing wind
SKIP STERLING
32F
*Cumulous
clouds form
Vertical development
begins
Gusts
Clouds rise
Gusts
KEY
Rain
Sprinkles
Hail
Lightning
2. IN THE FIELD.
* Watch the sky: Once youve
committed to the climb, pay
attention to the weather. Look
for signs that the forecast is right
or wrong or moving in quicker,
and adjust your plans. Take into
account whether you have a good
vantage point. For example, a
view to the east from a climb in
Rocky Mountain National Park
is not especially helpful since
weather tends to move in from
the west. If your view to the west
is blocked, be aware that it may
be easier for a weather system to
sneak up on you.
* Know your clouds: They wont
all produce a lightning bolt. You
should be worried about rising
cumulous clouds, which are pufy
and simultaneously hard-edged,
like the bicep of a bodybuilder.
As the building cloud gets taller,
it becomes capable of producing
lightning, rain, and hail and takes
on a new name: cumulonimbus.
High, wispy clouds, known as
cirrus, and low shelf-like clouds,
known as stratus, are less of a
concern. Stratus clouds can produce light precipitation, but they
wont produce lightning. Graupel
(small spheres of snow) are also a
sign of electrical activity.
3. BACK AT HOME.
* Log your observations: If you
plan on climbing frequently in
the area, its a good idea to write
down what you observed. Note
the weather forecast, what the
radar looked like, and what actually happened so you can look for
patterns in the future.
JOEL GRATZ
Joel Gratz is the weather nerd
behind opensnow.com, the
go-to website for those in search
of powder. Gratz, who studied
mountain weather as a grad
student at the University of Colorado at Boulder, hikes, climbs,
and bikes when theres no snow
to be skied.
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*Based on an illustration in the NOLS Wilderness Educator Notebook
CLIMBI NG.COM
| 75
GUIDES TIP
PACK SMARTER
C L I N IWorldMags.net
CS
By Chris Wright
CHOOSE THE
RIGHT PACK
There is no single tool for every
job, but you can nd one pack
that will work for most of your
trips. The pack that I take to the
Himalaya is often the same pack
I take to Alaska or the Cascades.
You want something thats big
enough to carry everything for
the climb, yet small enough that
it wont get in your way on-route.
My favorite is a model that expands to 50 liters, cinches down
to 30, and weighs 2.5 pounds. Its
light and versatile. I have a quiver
EXCEPTIONS
TO THE RULE
As Ive said many times already,
getting everything in your pack
is idealbut as with anything
in life, there are exceptions.
Ice tools and crampons almost
always ride outside. And sometimes it works to place your rope
and helmet out there, too.
If the rope doesnt t,
make a mountaineers coil
and just put it over the top of
the pack. If you cant get your
brain bucket to t, try taking
out a couple things, stuf them
inside the helmet, and try again.
If you have other items that just
wont t, you might need a bigger
packor just make your partner
carry the beer.
ARRANGE BY WEIGHT
To keep your packs weight in
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76 |
CHRIS WRIGHT
Chris Wright is an AMGAcertied rock and alpine guide
based in Bend, Oregon, where he
splits his time between his three
obsessions: climbing, skiing, and
eating.
SHOP TECH
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REMOVABLE
BOLTS
76
77
By Claire Ricks
REAL
WORLD
BEN SPANNUTH
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CLIMBING.COM
| 77
IN SESSION
Vector
Pull
If someone just physically cant do a move
or is too tired to climb up a tough crux section, small assistance from the belayer may
be enough to get him over the impasse.
A simple method is the vector pull. First,
some physics to help understand why this
works. Picture a Tyrolean traverse. If the
climber crossing weighs 200 pounds and
is hanging from the middle of the rope,
with an angle slightly less than 180 degrees
3:1
Raising System
One reason to belay from above, or direct
belay, with an assisted-braking belay
ONE
TWO
THREE
SUPERCORN
g. 1
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78 | 2014 GEAR GUIDE
SUPERCORN
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THROUGH DIFFICULT
MOVES
78
79
g. 2
Grigri) to a locking carabiner (B) clipped
to the friction hitch, and push the friction
hitch as far down as possible toward the
climber.
FOUR
FIVE
( g. 2)
3:1
Assisted Raise
For this method, the climber must be close
ONE
TWO
THREE
FOUR
FIVE
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The
Gear
Closet
how does your sTash compare To These overflowIng seTups?
Taylor Killian
aaron TucKer
Karen lane
PeTer VinToniV
ioanna MisheVa
rodrigo anTunes
alissa doherTy
JiM freeburg
KaTch silVa
Mauricio herrera
cuadra
dylan houser
@killian_taylor This
decked-out cargo van
gives dirtbagging a swank
makeover. Its a gear closet
on wheels.
@mishenshon A tiny
12-inch gap between the
wardrobe and the wall is
where she squeezes her
outdoor goodies.
@rodrigoantunes Limited
space means you have to
get creative. Straight from
Brazil, the stealthy gear
drawer!
Josh scheuTzow
@alissadoherty When
boyfriend John Gassel saw
a gear company advertise
a similar setup, he bought
his own version at IKEA.
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Available at specialty
outdoor retailers and REI stores nationwide.
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A PART OF PEOPLES ADVENTURES
SINCE 1892
AVAILABLE AT:
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