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Infrastructure - is it in place? Roads, Rail, Bus, parking etc. to get people to your
course.
Is the course advertised anywhere?
Is it seasonal?
Look at weather stats/records. Hours daylight, rain days, mean temperatures etc.
Has it got artificial lighting? School holidays - the local course here is aware of them
all. Anything that might increase traffic, they are aware of: Half terms, teacher
training days. Is it packed at weekends? Identify the peak days and times. Has it got
the opening times right? Has the course got the staffing right?
Look out for signs of vandalism - know your area, you want your investment to be
there tomorrow.
Survey the courses.
You could use the miniaturegolfer review form as a starting point. Is the course any
good?
If you're feeling brave you could ask the punters a bunch of questions when they've
finished.
How long has it been there? Is it currently derelict? Why?
Look out for any bottlenecks on the course - a bunch of people hanging around is a
failure in design.
Look also for redundancy, ie no one ever seems to end up on a large part of the
green, another design issue.
Get a weekend job at one of the courses - it'll look great on your minigolf CV and it
will give you more of an insight into what you can earn than observing from outside.
You can ask the questions such as 'how did you hear about us?' You can also
consider what percentage of sales other things such as ice creams amount to. Either
way you're going to have to get friendly with a number of course owners / managers
to eke information out of them.
Siting
Will you get planning permission? Is it big enough? Half an acre is about the smallest
you can get away with. Is the land suitable? One very successful course I know of is
on a flood-plain. Will the course drain easily following rain? How high is the water
table?
Are basic utilities available - water, electricity. Are there facilities nearby or will you
have to provide them?
Room for expansion, for example you could start with a nine-hole course and if
successful expand to eighteen.
Best fit
Mini golf courses are either stand-alone or part of a leisure complex such as a family
entertainment centre or driving range or a holiday park.
My dream is a Cafe/bar minigolf scenario which seems to be the norm in Mainland
Europe.
The Business Plan for Your Miniature Golf Course This Business Plan is specifically
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printing.
Start Your Own Miniature Golf Course This book will show you how to start your
miniature golf course. From planning your new miniature golf course to start-up and
establishing your miniature golf course business management and operational
practices.
Types of courses
Teeing off points
Why is this an issue?
Course owners are trying to limit wear and tear on the course and the two main
areas are around the hole and on the tee. The ball has to stay still while you're teeing
off, consequently given the slopes and sometimes high winds some deem it
necessary to have large holes to place the ball in. The larger the hole the more likely
it is to deviate from a line. The materials employed don't always suit the materials
that the putter heads are made from. The teeing off points also tend to stand proud
of the rest of the surface, sometimes it's like putting off a mountain. The various
solutions to this problem tend to detract from the enjoyment of the game. So is there
a joyous clairvoyant, happy medium?
Solutions:
Flat rubber mat, like a car mat .
Advantages: Can move it around and spread the wear.
Disadvantages: Punters can move it too. In competitions the ball tends to bounce off
the tee (they're not necessarily designed for this use) and the mat tends to end up in
different positions, can chalk the outline to overcome this.
A fixed rubber mat with holes for teeing off points
Advantages: Wear is on the rubber mat. And is it as hard-wearing as the felt?
Disadvantages: Course owners forget that it tends to concentrate the wear on the
green where the players stand to tee off.
A metal teeing off point with holes for placing the ball on.
Advantages: Wear is on the metal, if any.
Disadvantages: As above. The ball is more likely to bounce and bobble off the tee
moreso than a rubber mat or teeing off point.
An area, perhaps designated by a different colour felt.
Advantages: Simpler to replace.
Disadvantages: Felt is expensive. The join between the felt of the green and the felt
of the tee can cause problems for both players, the ball bobbles or deviates when
crossing and course owners can find they are constantly glueing down the join.
An area, perhaps designated by a line on the run, so tee off anywhere behind the
line.
Advantages: Simpler and cheaper to replace the teeing off area rather than the
whole green. Can use off-cuts from the original course felt. Spreads the wear all over
the teeing off area.
Disadvantages: Felt is expensive. The join between the felt of the green and the felt
of the tee can cause problems for both players, the ball bobbles or deviates when
crossing and course owners can find they are constantly glueing down the join.
However this will only occur after the teeing off area is replaced.
Borders
The object of the border should be to keep the ball in play as much as possible.
Every ball that leaves the run means an inevitable argument about where you should
replace the ball (see scorecard rules). The ball may be lost or unreachable. More
importantly to the course owner it adds more time to the overall time the player takes
to complete the course and more staff time is needed dealing with customers
requesting assistance. It also delays other players.
A secondary objective for the course owner and primary one for those that prefer to
play on 'skill-based' courses is a precise rebound shot can be played where the
border is regular and this in turn leads to a lot of repeat custom and much speedier
rounds as the customers learn the optimum lines.
Additionally the borders should facilitate speedy dispersal of water after rain or
power-washing. Obviously the design should incorporate drainage points at low
points on the run.
Issues
Safety - without borders the balls would be flying all over the place. Rarely when
there is a ramp in place do you see adequate security measures.
Lay-out - the borders define the course. The holes should follow on from each other
and the border edge at the exit point can be clearly defined. Should you have sunken
greens, raised greens or should they be level with the surrounds?
Playability - reliability of rebound shots.
Aesthetics - does it look pleasing to the eye? It defines the perceived quality of the
course.
Building regulations
Accessibility for the disabled and push chair enabled. Entry and exit points - how can
you have a continuous border? The exit point can be placed in an area where a
rebound shot is unlikely.
Replaceability - vandalism and skateboarders, can it be easily replaced or repaired.
And will it deposit bits on the course.
Durability - how long is it likely to last?
Equipment supplied - a metal-headed club can do a lot of damage. Specialist
equipment for wheelchair users.
Height (if elevated band) - allow for size of ball. Also may limit access.
Width - I've turned my ankle on plenty
Drainage
What happens if you need to replace the carpet?
So what sort of borders are generally used.
Brick
Unfortunately a lot of designs rely on some form of decorative bricks. A 'standard'
brick allows relatively easy construction of curves. The nibs (protrusions) on the
bricks are very annoying to the skilful player. The joins between the individual bricks
are even moreso. The joins do allow for the placing of drainage points by either a
simple gap or the addition of a bit of piping. However they do tend to clog up.
Kerbing
Not used as much as it should be. Kerbing machines can make large curved border
sections relatively easily. The joins do allow for the placing of drainage points by
either a simple gap or the addition of a bit of piping. However they do tend to clog
up.
Concrete
As above but can be sculpted into rocks and finishing effects can be added. The
ones I've seen tend to deposit these effects on the course.
Wood
As per Swedish Felt Run. Wont stand up to much punishment either from the
weather or the punters.
Logs. Probably the cheapest. Rarely are the insides planed flat. Tendency to rot
even when treated and break up depositing bits on the course. Also probability of
splintering. Suits woodland courses.
Metal
Elevated bands as with Beton or complete border as with Eternit.
Elevated bands can be a definite trip hazard ,drainage is inherent.
Natural Rock
Looks nice. Poor for rebound shots. Bits fall off.
So what's the ideal? Mine would be a continuous (except for the rear of the teeing off
area) elevated smooth metal banding with decorative brickwork behind. The entry
point could also act as the exit point for the disabled. Alternatively by supplying
proper equipment and suitable space wheelchair users could play from off the green.
Cup size
So what size cup should you aspire to?
The basic objective once more is to get 'em round as quickly as possible. However if
you had a bucket for a hole you wouldn't get the all important repeat custom. Your
course should be testing but fun, so that all types of players will have a good time.
You do have the option of providing a smaller ball though!
Width
The WMF dictates a ball size of 37 - 43mm. The rules of golf say the minimum size
is 1.68 inches (42.67 mm).
Scorecard Design
Reflects your perceived quality. Don't skimp for a quality course. Some
examples here.
Include only details that wont change and make sure they are correct before you get
50000 printed. I've seen a number with incorrect details. Consider how often you will
change them in the future before deciding on a huge quantity. And you are going to
have to store them somewhere. What is your forecasted usage?
Folded or otherwise it should fit the back pocket
Paper sizes
A6. 10.5 x 14.8cm 4.13 x 5.83 inches
A5 14.8 x 21 cm 5.83 x 8.27 inches (need to fold, ideally once only)
Visit courses, collect cards and find one you fancy.
Paper weight minimum 130 gsm (gram(me)s per square metre) or thereabouts,
difficult to get a straight answer at a distance from a printer. Microns, Pounds per
square blah. Talk to a printer, look at samples. How many colours, who's providing
any artwork? What format is it required in?
Thicker the easier to write on
Glossy difficult to use pen
Thicker Less easy to fold and more expensive. You may require each card to be
scored to allow for easier folding.
And these things may get wet out on the course, will they still be usable?
Bear in mind that if you fold it to fit in your pocket a larger enough white space
should be allowed for in the middle.
Basic scorecard
Hole numbers, score, Total - Allow four columns for four players and space for their
names. Four being the maximum allowable group size.
Company logo and contact details, people especially children might want to keep
them particularly if they beat Dad.
Contact details, address, phone, web address. If these may change in the future, it'll
be wise to opt for a short print run.
Other things you may wish to include:
Rules! Please note that people may not actually read the rules.
Subtotals after nine and eighteen of an eighteen and Total.
Graphical representation of the course
Yardage (from tee to hole) and possibly total
Par
Names of holes
5. If ball enters hazard or leaves the course, replace it at the nearest point on the
fairway and take a one stroke penalty.
6. Please allow faster groups to play through.
7. Do not tee off until the group ahead have cleared the hole.
8. Control your swing so as not to endanger other players.
Children should be supervised at all times.
Add any disclaimers and breakage policy here.....
More details on rules here:
British Minigolf Association Competition Rules (These rules are effectively a
summary of the WMF Competition Rules).
US ProMiniGolf Association
The Professional Putters Association (USA)
Planet Hastings Crazy Golf Club rules
Hole order
Many designers of minigolf courses fail to understand the three peaks principle,
understandable as made it up only recently.
Basically you should order the holes such that holes 5, 9 and 14 are the toughest.
Here is my idealised Stroke Index (1 is the hardest hole on the course, 18 is the
easiest. So anything between 1 & 6 is tough, 7 - 12 is middling, 13 - 18 is easier).
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
17
13
9
5
1
15
11
7
3
18
14
10
6
2
16
12
8
4
So you get an easy intro - people get away quickly and there is a minimum of
balking. Balking occurs where people see the queues and don't bother to play or if
you're lucky they wait until later. Interest is maintained through the middle section
and you finish on a moderately difficult hole. The lesson is intersperse the more
difficult holes. There's nothing worse than playing a group of very easy holes and
likewise a group of very difficult ones.
It also allows you to plan where to have waiting areas and thus the best places to put
advertising material or exhibit something to be sold.
Planting
The key is safe, low-maintenance, appropriate, inexpensive planting. The goal is to
create a well-drained aesthetically pleasing course.
Safe
No plants with poisonous berries, fruits, leaves, stems or roots. There are some
nasty poisonous weeds here in the UK that may pop up - ragwort (DEFRA PDF) is
one and is the host to the toxic cinnabar moth and it's caterpillar.
US - database of dangerous plants
No stings, prickles, cutting, trip hazards
Plants that grow over the edges or overhang runs are not helpful.
Insecticides/pesticides NO!!
Low maintenance
No watering, no pruning, no spraying, disease free, pest free (relatively!), no deadheading. Check before you buy.
No plants that are high maintenance and shed leaves all over the course. Even pines
shed their needles and these are particularly difficult to remove. Roots of trees break
up runs and paths.
Appropriate
Soil type is critical. Bear in mind what grows well in your area. Look around. Take
into account average rainfall, plant hardiness, wind, average and high and low
temperatures. Consider the level of sunshine and shade at the planting location
given the other plants full size at maturity. And be aware when your course is going
to be open, it should be at its best then! If it's going to be open all year make sure it
will look good in all seasons. Don't fight nature, it will win. How big will the plant be
when fully grown? How long does it live for?
Beware of what your flowers/trees may attract. Fruit/berry bearing trees will bring
birds and they leave their own kind of thank you!
Inexpensive
They might well be stolen.
Don't expect/want a complete picture at the opening of your course, plants take time
to mature. If you want it to look right from the start then it's going to cost you in terms
of time and money.
A hedge (I'm a big fan!) may block the wind, but also mean passers-by in car or on
foot can't see the course. Make sure it's as far away from the run as possible and at
the correct height.
TIP: Preparing for planting. Strim it, put cardboard on top, water it and mulch to a
depth of 2 inches and water again.
Be aware people will tread in the mulch and spread it all over the course, minimise
this by having a buffer zone between plants and course. Also wind will spread it.
Avoid peat, there are too few peat bogs left and they're not being replaced quickly.
Budget for replacements and mistakes.
Stones around run borders - make sure they are too big to get stuck in the soles of
your shoes. A useful buffer zone between plants and runs.
Paths - not grit or gravel!! It WILL end up on the course. It's best to have a hard nonslip surface.
The essence is you want the course up and running after rainfall quickly.
Paving stones have gaps, filled with camomile is a plus, filled with weeds a minus.
Grass, again a fan, but beware cuttings. Even vineyards have finally seen the value
of grass as something to soak up surface water.
Consider a professional landscaper, they should know the answer to all your
questions and at least you'll have some redress should they get it wrong.
Risk assessment
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