GUITAR CARE & MAINTENANCE

Changing Guitar Strings and General Maintenance

OBJ ECTIVE:
To learn the fundamentals of taking care of and doing general maintenance to a guitar.
FORWARD:
If you have made an investment buying a guitar and wish to have the value of that instrument
hold up as best as possible, (taking normal wear and tear into consideration), studying this
handout is time well spent. It is very important that you learn how to correctly change stings,
check parts for wear, and maintain the wood for the guitars lasting playability & appearance
without having to take your guitar to a repair shop. By using the techniques in this handout your
instrument will last longer, play better, and even re-sale at a higher price in the end if you
perhaps decide to sell it.
SECTION ONE:

String Removal
1). Loosen all of the tension off of each guitar string.
2). Using side-cutters, (or wire-snips), cut the strings in the middle.
(approx. at where the neck joins the body).
3). Remove the strings from the bridge piece and from the headstock tuning pegs.
4). Disgard the old strings.
NOTE: If you have pets be sure to wrap up the old strings and place them in a sealed
bag when throwing them away. Pets tend to want to play with strings, and the
old strings from your instrument can present a choking hazzard to animals.
SECTION TWO:
Fretboard Cleaning
1). You should have two cotton cloths. Use one to dry-wipe the fretboard, this will remove loose
dirt & dust. For very dirty guitars use a slightly damp cloth, (water only).
NOTE: The next two points will only apply to natural exposed wood surfaces.
2). Using a light wood oil for the fretboard, (woodwind bore oil works excellent),
place one small drop of oil on each fret along the entire neck.
3). Use the other cloth to rub in the oil until all of the oil has dissipated from the
surface of the wood.
ANDREW WASSON / Creative Guitar Studio 2009 All Rights Reserved
PAGE 2 - Guitar Care & Maintenance
SECTION THREE:
POLISHING THE FRETS
1). Using .0000 grade steel wool, gently buff each fretwire individually. Concentrate a little
more effort on those frets which seem to need it.
2). Cover the pick-ups as you work higher up the neck on electric guitars, (pick-ups are
magnets and will attract metal flings when cleaning higher fretwires).
3). With the choth used for wiping excess fretboard oil, wipe down the fretboard once more.
(see section two, #5).
4). If you wish to polish your frets, a silver polish such as, Silvo brand, (or simular), will work.
Use a clean cloth and polish each fret. However, this generally isnt necessary.
SECTION FOUR:
POLISHING THE BODY

NOTE: All guitar polishes work to protect the fnish and add a shine. Brands out there include
Fender, Gibson and Martin just to name a few. Automotive pre-wax cleaners will also work well.
1). Using a clean cloth wipe any greasy smudges or fngerprints off of the body frst.
If the guitar body is exceptionally dirty, wet the cloth slightly damp with warm tap water.
2). Using a dry cloth, add a small amount of polish directly to the body.
3). Rub in the polish until all traces are gone and continue to polish the rest of the guitar.
4). As long as your guitar has a fnished back of the neck you can polish it, if it is unfnished,
(natural wood), you can rub it down with steel wool (.0000 grade).
Product Note: To clean your guitars fnish we recommend, Meguiars Quik Detailer.
Available in the auto paint care section of your favorite department store.
ANDREW WASSON / Creative Guitar Studio 2009 All Rights Reserved
PAGE 3 - Guitar Care & Maintenance
SECTION FIVE:
CHECKING THE SADDLES, BRIDGE, NUT, AND TUNING PEGS
For this you should have a few tools handy in case there are adjustments required.

1). Check the tuning posts and make sure each post is tight to the headstock.
NOTE: It is very common to have tuners loosen up. A standard adjustable wrench will
work just fne to tighten each tuning post nut.
2). On Floyd-Rose systems, you should check the nut to neck set screws.
Important: Do not over tighten.

3). Check the neck to body screws, (at the heel joint), on bolt-on style guitar necks.
4). Examine the saddles and bridge for missing parts, excessively worn parts or damage.
NOTE: Unless you know exactly what you are doing, do not try adjusting the bridge or
saddles on your own. This can cause tuning problems.

5). For Floyd-Rose style bridges add a drop of lightweight oil, (i.e., 5W - 30), onto each block
screw to help keep the screws free and easy moving.

SECTION SIX:
RESTRINGING THE GUITAR
STRINGS: There are many different gauges, types, and brands to choose from.
To begin we will simply categorize strings into three general guitar string types.

Nickle strings (primarily electric guitar).
Bronze strings (acoustic guitar)
Nylon strings (classical or famenco guitars)
Now that we have the strings into categories for guitar types, the next step is to look at
categorizing the string gauge.
ANDREW WASSON / Creative Guitar Studio 2009 All Rights Reserved
PAGE 4 - Guitar Care & Maintenance

STRING GAUGE:
String gauge, (thickness), affects three playing/performance areas, they are;
1). String action, (action is the feel of how easy, or hard the string is to depress).
2). The dynamics, (how loud or soft), of the natural resonant sound of the guitar.
3). How the guitar strings react to the players own personal level of playing ability.
For the beginner or, Introductory, student, a light gauge guitar string will work the best. For an
Intermediate level guitarist, a medium gauge will work well to build technique. For Advanced
players, different situations and styles of music may require various gauge strings on several
different guitars.
To get a general idea of the string gauge to try on your guitar, look over the lists below...
INTRODUCTORY LEVEL
Electric Guitars: Nickle light gauge 0.008 or 0.009
Acoustic Guitars: Bronze extra light gauge 0.010
Classical Guitars: Normal tension nylon strings gauge 0.028
INTERMEDIATE LEVEL
Electric Guitars: Medium gauge 0.009 or 0.010
Acoustic Guitars: Bronze light gauge 0.012
Classical Guitars: Hard tension nylon strings gauge 0.029
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Never use steel strings on a Classical guitar. The Classical guitar bridge was only designed to
support the tension of nylon guitar strings. A set of steel strings used on a Classical guitar
will either damage the bridge, warp the guitars soundboard, or possibly cause the bridge to
break off of the guitar.
STRING BRANDS:
The brand of strings is a preferance. Try several different types. Eventually you will fnd
a brand that you are happy with. Creative Guitar Studio recommends DAddario brand
guitar strings.
ANDREW WASSON / Creative Guitar Studio 2009 All Rights Reserved
PAGE 5 - Guitar Care & Maintenance
RE-STRINGING:
1). Begin with the low 6th (E string). Remove it from the packing pouch and carefully
unwind it so as not to put any kinks in the string.
2). There are 4 basic types of bridge systems. You must frst determine which bridge system
your guitar has before going any further.
(a). The standard or fxed bridge.
(b). The Floyd-Rose tremolo bridge.
(c). The pressed in peg acoustic guitar bridge.
(d). Classical guitar tied string end bridge.
The Re-Stringing Guide:
2 a). The Fixed Bridge:
These bridge systems are on many electric and acoustic guitars. They are very easy to string.
Simply run the cut-end of the string through the bridge system, (or drilled hole for most
acoustics), until the ball end stops in place.
- Tug the string frmly to be sure it is in all the way.
- Run the string to the tuning peg.
2 b). The Floyd-Rose Tremolo bridge:
NOTE: These bridge systems are found exclusively on electric guitars.
- Using side-cutters, or wire-snips, cut off the ball end of the
string.
- The string saddle has a die-cast block which clamps the string tightly down.
Place the cut end of the string between the forward saddle wall and the block.
- Using your fngers, tighten the blocks adjusting screw until the block secures
the string into the saddle. Tighten the screw with your guitars hex key.
Important: Careful not to overtighten the block screw. The bridge or block could break.
ANDREW WASSON / Creative Guitar Studio 2009 All Rights Reserved
PAGE 6 - Guitar Care & Maintenance
2 c). The Pressed Peg Acoustic Guitar Bridge:
- This bridge is found on acoustic guitars and will generally use plastic or wood,
bridge pegs.
- Place the ball end of the string into the peg hole.
- The peg itself will have a groove cut into one side. That groove is for the ball-end
of the string to ride in and get pressed against the wall of the bridge hole, (this will
not allow the string to move once tension is upon it).
- Be sure the peg is locked into the bridge hole by pressing down on the peg while
pulling up on the string. You will feel the peg become tightly ftted to the hole.
2 d). The Classical Guitar Tied End Bridge:
- Run the string into the bridge hole from the front of the bridge, (neck side),
approx. 2 to 3.
- There are two sides of the string we will be working with now.
They will be refered to as Playing side and Tie side.
- Take the 2 - 3 of the tie side and loop it around, (under), the playing side.
- Do not actually tie a knot. Do two ties, (like the initial tie made when doing up your
shoelaces), for the 6th & 5th strings. Since the 4th through 1st strings are thinner,
four ties are needed to secure these string to prevent slipping.
3). WINDING THE TUNING PEGS:
IMPORTANT:
- Strings should be wrapped around the tuning pegs like a spool of thread. NEVER
overlap or tie the string in a knot onto the tuners.
ANDREW WASSON / Creative Guitar Studio 2009 All Rights Reserved
PAGE 7 - Guitar Care & Maintenance
Winding the tuning pegs continued ...
- Run the string through the tuning peg head hole all the way until tension
is on the string.
- Pull the string tightly until you are satisfed it is frmly held at the bridge.
- Push the string back approx. 1 - 2.
NOTE: Thick strings generally do not require as much winding around the tuning post as the thinner higher pitch
strings. The thick strings are wider in radius and quickly wind up around the post due to their size.
- Bend the string so it now has a kink at the post with 1 - 2 of slack.
- Keeping your right-hand index fnger on the post, use your left hand to
tighten the tuning post.
SECTION SEVEN:
- TUNING UP THE INSTRUMENT -
1). Once all of the strings are on the instrument, add more tension to them with a
couple of extra turns of the tuning peg.
2). Using a tuning fork, metronome tuning pitch, another instrument, or a guitar tuner; begin
tuning from the low 6th string across to the 1st.
3). Depending on the type of guitar, bridge system, and strings you use; there will be
different levels of effort required to get the guitar tuned up. Take your time while tuning.
The initial tune up should be done carefully and slowly so as to avoid breaking a string.
4). After the guitar is in tune, grab each string and give it a tug to apply some extra tension
to the guitar string. Be careful with the 1st and 2nd strings. These string can break easily
if too much additional tension is placed upon them. Doing this step will help to, set, the
string and with one more tuning pass each string should stay in tune quite nicely.
NOTE: Electric and steel-string Acoustic guitars will set in tune and stay in tune after only a
few days, (sometimes even less). Classical guitars however, will sometimes require weeks
before the nylon strings set in tune and fnally balance out. These guitars will require daily
tune-ups each time you play the instrument. Be patient, after a few weeks the strings will
fnally set and require only minimal daily tuning.
ANDREW WASSON / Creative Guitar Studio 2009 All Rights Reserved