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All about Ammolite

Most gems used in jewelry are minerals or stones, formed by inorganic chemical
processes beneath the earths surface. These substances are prized for their geometric
beauty as well as their rarity, but some gemstones have their origins in life itself. The
World Jewellery [sic] Confederation recognizes only three organic gemstones -- amber,
the fossilized sap of trees; pearls, the hidden treasure of oysters; and ammolite, the
multicolored and iridescent shells of ancient sea creatures called ammonites.

Over 70 million years ago, North America was covered in a shallow sea, abundant with
marine life. Ammonites were mollusks that thrived in these waters and bore a distinctive
spiraled shell reminiscent of a tightly coiled rams horn. In fact, the name ammonite is
inspired by this shape: Pliny the Elder (d. 79 AD near Pompeii) classified these fossils
ammonis cornua ("horns of Ammon"), after the Egyptian god Ammon (Amun), who is
typically portrayed wearing rams horns.

While ammonite fossils can be found all over the world, only those found along the
eastern edge of the Rocky Mountains in the U.S. and Canada have an iridescent outer
shell as a result of replacement by aragonite. The iridescent phenomenon in ammolite is
caused by the interference of light reflecting off stacked layers of thin microscopic
platelets that make up the replaced aragonite in the ammonite shell.

The thickness of these aragonite platelets determines the colors present in the
sample. Thick, well-ordered stacks result in red; thinner, less well-ordered stacks present
as green; and blue hues are due to extremely thin stacks. Because a thinner layer of
platelets is more fragile, and rarely found undamaged, gems with blue or violet coloring
are typically more sought after and more expensive.

The organic nature of this gem means every piece is unique, and the variety of colors and
textures give every specimen a stunningly original look. Unlike cut gemstones, which
rely on their facets to reflect light and sparkle, ammolite is usually finished as a polished
cabochon, often in more natural, sometimes asymmetrical shapes. These rounded forms
enhance the organic beauty of the ammolite, a simpler cut allowing the color and
iridescence to take center stage.

Ammolite enjoyed a boost in popularity in the 1990s, when renowned feng shui master
Edward Kui Ming Li began calling it the most influential stone of the millennium and
seven-color prosperity stone. Some practitioners believe that each color present in the
gem resonates with a particular energy: For example, crimson stimulates growth and
energy; orange generates creativity and increased libido; green improves wisdom and
promotes business enterprises; yellow improves wealth; and blue promotes peace and
health. As a decorative element in the home or office, ammolite is thought to promote
prosperity and happiness, and, when worn on ones person, as in a pendants or mens
rings, the gem is believed to promote the flow of Qi throughout the body.

Whatever ones spiritual beliefs, ammolite is an undeniably vibrant gem, and has been
embraced enthusiastically by jewelry designers all around the world. Designers who
favor a more natural, organic feel to their jewelry have long used ammolite in Damascus
steel rings, set it against the coastal beauty of mother of pearl, or paired it with irregular
textures like gold nugget jewelry. Ammolite is a perfect material for this aesthetic, and is
quickly gaining popularity. A splash of color so striking needs little embellishment, so
many designers favor a simple setting of white or yellow gold, perhaps accented by a
diamond or two. Fine jewelers such as Alaska Jewelry carry a wide selection of
ammolite jewelry.

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