WASH BEFORE RETURNING TO CORD AREA.

MASSAGE GRADUALLY AND TRY TO LIFT

THE COCK
LEG SO THAT HE CAN REACH 90 DEG ANGLE RELATIVE TO HIS BODY FOR SPRING
LIKE
MOVEMENT.
perfect warrior

14 Days KEEP By: Teddy Tanchanco

I. Feeding During The KEEP
Let me reveal to you what some cockers call secrets in conditioning of gamecocks for
the pit. For starters, let us talk about
feeding.
Some cockers say that the secret in the proper conditioning of gamecocks is feeding. It
is undeniable that feeding plays a very
important role in conditioning, but let us bear in mind that feeding should be considered
in relation to other factors, a trainer must
monitor while preparing his set of feathered warriors. With due respect to other
trainers, please consider that what I am about to
say here is only what I personally do.
First of all, before going into a 14 days KEEP, we must select candidates. If you are to
fight a 5-cock derby, simply multiply the
number of cocks for an entry (say, 5) by three (3) to come up with the number of
candidates you must choose (thus, 15). It is
assumed that these cocks went through a pre-conditioning process where they are in
good flesh, healthy and full breasted, but
without gut fat or sapola. It is best that they are about 200 grams higher than their
best fighting weight observed during the pre-
conditioning. It is better to lower a cocks weight during the KEEP rather than to
increase it, which will take a lot more time, effort
and uncertainty. Remember that we will do a 14-days KEEP, not 21 or 30.
Now, what is the correct fighting weight? you may ask. The best fighting weight is
that weight where your cock fought best during
the spars conducted while he is in the pre-conditioning. In the pre-conditioning stage,
record each cocks weight before every spar.
Grade his fight according to your preference. He might be good, very good, excellent or
neutral during these sparring sessions. In
at least five (5) sparring, you must be able to know his best fighting weight. Consider
the weight where he fought best as his best
fighting weight.
Give your candidates only bread soaked in milk as flushing feed on the day of your
selection. Deworm them the usual way, and
delouse by simply spraying on the feathers. Do not deep the cocks in water. Now they
are all cleaned up, inside and out.
To avoid disease and other infections during the KEEP, I inject Combiotic (only 1cc. per
bird) on the breast of each cock on the first
day.
For the feeds during the KEEP, I try to maintain a 16% crude protein (C.P.) level from
day one up to the eleventh (1-11). To
achieve this, mix several ingredients as follows:
50% - whole corn
20% - red wheat
10% - whole oats or jockey oats
10% - Royal Pigeon Feed
10% - Pellets (16% C.P.)
Corn is the staple food of fowl, which supplies a lot of carbohydrates and some
proteins. I use red wheat instead of the white one
because red wheat is easier to digest, and it has a higher protein level than the white.
If you can't find Royal Pigeon Feed, you may
substitute this with 5% green peas and 5% yellow peas in the ration. These feedstuffs
supply most of the proteins in the cocks
diet. The 10% Pellets indicated above may be Holding Ration Pellets or simply Pigeon
Pellets. Just make sure that the pellets you
use contain 16% crude protein. Look at the packaging for this information. The above
proportions are measured in dry weight.
All grains are soaked in water for at least 9 hours. Right after each feeding, soak the
grains you will need for the next. Soaking
increases seed moisture and stimulates germination. Germinated grains produce more
proteins. Legumes, like green peas and
soybeans, must be heated or germinated to make their crude protein metabolizable.
Otherwise, we cannot utilize the proteins from
these grains. Mix the grains with the pellets only at feeding time. You now have what is
called your base feed.
To this base feed, add some white of hard-boiled eggs. Chop finely one (1) white of a
hard-boiled egg for every four or five cocks.
This supplies some proteins and helps retain moisture inside the cocks body during this
time. Hard-boiled egg is given to the cocks
all throughout the KEEP (day 1 to 14).
Aside from hard-boiled eggs, add bulk (fiber), and natural vitamins and minerals to your
feed by mixing finely chopped tomatoes or
cabbage or lettuce. These veggies should make up 20% of your feed mixture, while the
other 80% is from the base feed with hard-
boiled eggs. We use volume measurements now, instead of weights. If we take one (1)
tablespoon as 20%, then we can mix (1)
heaping tablespoons of veggies to four (4) heaping tablespoons of the base feed to
make a hundred percent (100%). This will be
the final make up of your feed from day 1 to 11.
Provide the cocks a steady supply of grits from day 1 to 9 of the KEEP. Grits help the
cocks digest the feed and keep the gizzard
well exercised. They remain in the gizzard for about a week. Thus, grits are withheld 5
days before the fight to empty the gizzard
not only of feeds, but also grits, on fight day.
Feed the cocks on a regular basis. Always feed on the same exact time everyday. I give
my morning feed at 7 a.m. and the
afternoon feed at 4 p.m. Give each cock two (2) heaping tablespoons of the feed
mixture mentioned above. This is about 30 to 40
grams of feed per cock. During the day, the cocks should be crop empty by 2 or 3 p.m.
to show that their digestive systems
functions well. It takes only six (6) to seven (7) hours for feeds to be digested in the
body of the fowl. If one becomes crop-bound
before the afternoon feed, take him out of the KEEP.
I like cocks, which are voracious eaters and fast grinders. These show that their system
is really at work. Picky cocks or those which
leave feeds in their cups must be experiencing something unpleasant. They must be
observed and treated for any disease, and sent
back to pre-conditioning. Try always to observe the cocks in KEEP before, during and
after feeding. If possible, observe them the
whole day, everyday, and even during their sleep.
With this feeding system, we expect the cocks to loose that extra 200 grams off their
weight in the beginning of the KEEP.
Therefore, daily monitoring of weights is necessary. Weigh the cocks in the morning
before feeding. A cock should lower his weight
by as much as ten (10) to twenty (20) grams per day and arrive at his best fighting
weight on the 11th day of the KEEP or on the
last three (3) days before fight day. If one loses 50 or more grams within a span of 24
hours, the cock must be sick or incapable of
bearing stress in the KEEP. Back to the pre-conditioning he goes. Three (3) days before
the fight, we do the Carbo-Loading
Technique.
II. Carbo - Loading Technique
Carbohydrates are the main source of energy for cocks in training. Like human athletes
getting ready for competition, the
gamecock must store enough energy in his body to be used during the fight for his life.
The critical days in conditioning which are
the last three (3) days before the fight, finds the trainer wanting to load up his
gamecock with as much energy as possible to give
him that power he will need. Carbo-Loading does this.
Simply put, Carbo-Loading, means the technique of increasing or loading up of
carbohydrates in the diet of gamecocks during
the last three (3) days of the Keep as a part of pointing.
The objective here is to increase the available metabolizable energy (M.E.) in the cocks
body that will be used during the actual
fight. This is achieved by increasing the caloric content of the feeds given to the fowl.
From the 16% crude protein base feed we
have given from the first to the 11th day of the Keep, we gradually increase the amount
of carbohydrates to 75% or 80% in the
last 3 days. Gradually, so as not to upset the digestive system of the cocks.
To the base feed, for every 100 grams, add 10% corn, or an equivalent of 10 grams of
corn on the 12th day, 20 grams on the 13th
day, and 30 grams on the 14th, for a total of 80% corn in the ration on the 14th day.
Thus, the total amount of protein decreases,
while carbohydrates increases. The usual amount of two (2) tablespoonfuls of feed is
given to the cocks daily, morning and
afternoon.
Why use corn? First of all, feeding corn gives your gamecock that snap every time he
hits his opponent. Just compare cocks fed
with corn to those, which are not. Gamecocks that have corn in their diet feel more
fleshy or muscular although a bit heavier, while
cocks with no corn feel loose to the touch.
Corn is my choice for carbo-loading because corn has the high amounts of
carbohydrates (metabolized energy) compared to other
feedstuff. The table below shows the amount of nutrients available from common feed
ingredients found in grains used as
conditioning feeds. We can see that oat groats (dehulled) has the highest metabolized
energy (3400 Kilo calories) followed by corn
with 3366 Kcal. However, oat groats is also high in crude fats. This will tend to bring
about sapola or gut fat in the cock.
Experience also tells me that feeding more oat groats turn the droppings very green
and take away that snap from the cocks
buckles. Thus I prefer corn, which also has high-metabolized energy, but low in fats.
This metabolized energy is stored in the body
of the fowl for at least 2 days before it is transformed into fats if not used during this
time.
On the last 3 days before the fight, soaking of the grains is usually regulated. Moisture
in the body of the cock is dictated by various
conditions, both of the cock, and his environment. Because of these, water intake is
managed during the last three (3) days of the
Keep.
Feedstuff Crude Crude Metabolized Energy
Protein % Fat % M.E. (Kcal. /Kg.)
Barley 11.5 1.9 2620
Corn 08.9 3.5 3366
Green Peas 22.0 1.0 2600
Oats (whole) 11.0 4.0 2550
Oat Groats 16.0 6.0 3400
Red Rice 07.3 1.7 2670
Sunflower Seed 42.0 2.3 1760
Wheat (trigo) 13.5 1.9 2620
Data derived from: The Merck Veterinary Manual, Seventh Edition
III. Moisture and Water Management
A gamecocks body is at least 65% water. From this fact alone, we can see that water is
really an important element in the proper
conditioning of our fowl. Lets dig deeper. Why are we so concerned about water and
moisture, in the first place? To properly
condition cocks, we have what we call their peak, meaning to say, they are On Point
or in laymans term, they are in their
lowest possible weight, but still with their greatest strength or power. We can affect this
through the correct management of
moisture and water for the fowl.
Water specifically affects a gamecock in training in two ways: 1) as a supply of moisture
needed by the body for normal bodily
functions, and 2) as a temperature regulator. For digestion, water acts on the grains
and pellets as a solvent and helps in
fermentation. Feeds taken by the cocks during mealtime are stored in the crop where it
undergoes fermentation. At this point,
acids, proteins and carbohydrates are further enhanced before they are passed on to
the gizzard for further digestion. Thus,
whenever a cock gets crop-bound, we must do all we can to empty his crop of the
fermented feeds lest he will die from the poisons
these might produce. Without the right amount of water, proper digestion and
fermentation of feeds will not take place and can
endanger the life of your beloved fowl. So, keep a watchful eye on how you feed and
water your gamecocks, especially while they
are in training.
From day 1 to 11 in our conditioning program, water is always present before the cocks
right after feeding. Moisture is also assured
by soaking the grains overnight. However, on the 12th day, you as a conditioner/trainer
must have what I call a clinical eye and be
very careful are assessing the condition of each fowl. While observing your fowl, ask
yourself the following questions: How much
water does your cock consume or drink during the day? One way of doing this is to
draw a line inside his feeding/drinking pot right
on the first day of the Keep to remember the actual amount of water you put in each
morning. By nightfall, get that which remains
of the water in the pot and measure it using a graduated beaker. By the tenth day, you
can more or less predict how much water
each cock will drink in a day. On the 12th day of the Keep, watch how much he drinks.
Is the cock eating his usual amount of
feeds? How does he respond to carbo-loading?
On the 12th day, we have started adjusting the carbohydrates content of the feeds,
remember? If the cock has the right amount of
moisture in his body by this time, he is suppose to eat the same amount of feeds he is
accustomed to. How are his droppings? Are
they watery, dry, or moist?
We gauge the fowls body moisture by observing their droppings. By moist, we mean,
the droppings do not splatter when voided,
but have the right texture and form when dropped. Try stepping on it lightly and if it
sticks to your shoe, then it has the right
moisture. Also, watch your cock as he defecate or move his bowels. If he is having a
hard time passing his stool, he must be too
dry. If he is too dry, he wont cut. If he is too wet, he will be sluggish and wont cut
accurately. How is the weather? Is it cloudy
day, sunny, warm, rainy or hot?
During hot summer months, the cock will certainly drink more water to regain lost
moisture and at the same time to regulate his
body temperature. A feverish cock will drink water more frequently, than a cock, which
has the right body temperature.
Consequently, their droppings will be very watery.
The wind also makes the cocks dry. Although their temperature might be all right, loss
of water through the skin and feathers is
greatly affected by the wind or air current. You might not notice, but your cocks may
already be too dry although they would rather
stay on the roost because the wind is too cold.
During the rainy months, infections abound. These infections like CRD and Coryza make
cocks feverish. Cocks might not show the
clinical signs at first, but you will notice that they drink often not just to regain moisture
but also to regulate body temperature.
They are feverish. Get them out of the Keep.
The range of a cocks body temperature during the Keep is between 38.5o to 39.5o
Celsius. This is their normal body temperature.
Use a rectal thermometer to measure your cocks temperature. Finally, how does each
cock feel to the touch? This is something no
medical or scientific means to tell you. You have to have the feel for properly
conditioned cocks. American cockers call this corky,
maybe referring to the light feeling when you hold the cock in your hands.
When held, some cocks are full-bodied and heavy, and tight muscled. Some are thin,
light and loose, while others are thin, heavy
and tight. Still others are thin, heavy and loose. We are looking for a cock, which is full-
bodied but light and a bit loose. If they feel
tight-muscled, they maybe muscle-bound. We dont want this on fight day. Muscle-
bound cocks have muscles still suffering from
fatigue. When we say loose, we mean relaxed muscles. Properly toned muscles have
that tension and looseness in them. Always
check their weight through your record book. Your cock must be in his best fighting
weight. On this 12th day, we are looking for
loose muscles because for the next two (2) days we shall try to make the cocks tighter
and dryer.
If your cocks have been properly conditioned, they will drink less water for the rest of
the Keep. In case, on this 12th day, you find
your fowls droppings watery, or too dry, you still have the 13th and 14th day to make
adjustments.
IV. Pointing and Troubleshooting
The day, Fight Day, is the most critical day when fighting your gamecock. On this day,
just hours before the actual fight, the cocks
condition must be at its peak. We achieve this through a procedure called Pointing.
Pointing is the process wherein the cock is made to be in his lowest possible weight, yet
still with his greatest strength. Cocks in
this condition are said to be at their peak or On Point. A cock coming to point must
have glossy feathers, bright red face, moist
droppings, red watery eyes, alert and relaxed, and with normal body temperature.
But before pointing your cock, I think some explanation about joining a derby is in
order. Derbies are usually held in the evenings
up to the early morning hours. In Big time Derbies, submission of weights is done a day
before and the fight schedule comes out in
the afternoon. For smalltime derbies, submission of weights is in the morning on fight
day.
Morning, before submission of weights, before feeding, limbers the cocks in folding
scratch-pens and observes their droppings. Wait
til a cock passes his stool before weighing him. From each cocks weight, subtract 30-
50 grams and submit this to the cockpit as
the weights of your entries. Bad weight or weight 40 grams over your declared weight
is fined during derbies. The cock loses weight
during pointing and 30 grams is a more or less safe margin for this. For example, if
your actual weight is 2.1 kg. subtract 30 grams
from that, and declare 2.070 kg. as the weight of your entry, 2.110 kg. is your bad
weight. On the time of fight, your cock will
surely weigh less than 2.1 kg. because of pointing. Even if your cock does not lose
weight during pointing, you are still in the
allowable weight limit. Remember to calibrate your weighing scale to that of the
cockpits where you will fight.
Time of fight is also important. A cock digests his normal feed in 6 to 8 hours and fully
absorbs the nutrients in another 4 to 6
hours. So, try to know your fight schedule to program your feeding time beforehand. If
your fight is 6 p.m., count 6 to 8 hours
backwards (about 12 noon) and feed your cock his regular ration of pointing feed.
By 6 p.m., he must be empty and On Point.
When pointing, it is better to under feed than to overfeed. Feel the cocks crop and see
that it has nothing in it. If a grain or two
can be observed, feed less than his normal ration. Empty crops dont mean that the
gizzard and other digestive organs are also
empty. To be sure that no feed still exists in the cocks body, feed less.
Now comes the essential part of pointing, moisture. Once in the cockpit, rest the cocks
for at least 30 minutes before giving 3 to 5
dips of water. This will encourage bowel movement. As explained in previously,
moisture can be gauged only by observing the
cocks droppings. There are four (4) stages or sequence of changes that occur with the
cocks droppings when we conduct pointing
procedures. First is the usual moist and firm dropping, which must be seen in the
morning just before weighing the cock and after
the last feeding. Next, when the cock has emptied his gut of the fibers and other waste
materials from the feeds, you will observe
what I call cecal droppings. This is the brown sticky smelly kind of droppings the cock
pass from time to time during the Keep. But
now, cecal droppings is an indication of emptying out of the intestines. You will also
observe that some moist green droppings
with white toppings still come out but are increasingly getting smaller. When the cock is
really empty (from the crop to the large
intestines), what I call moisture droppings will appear. These look like whitish mucus
about two (2) inches in diameter. They
become smaller as pointing progresses. The cock may be said to be On Point when the
size of moisture droppings are as small as a
twenty-five (25) centavo coin and a little bit sticky.
A peculiar movement I have observed with cocks On Point is what I call the head
knocking syndrome. Coming to their peak, the
cocks start to knock their heads (something like twitching as in a person with a tic).
This must be observed while limbering prior to
the actual fight. It is difficult to describe the movement in writing, but once youve seen
this knocking movement, this is a sign that
the cock is already in his peak. Another sign is when the pupil of the eyes start to
dilate. But sometimes, this is not reliable.
These are all signs of being at their peak. Be careful not to overshoot their peak lest
your cock will be off.
The off syndrome comes right after the peak. This means that they have already used
up all the nutrients and energy available in
their body, and hunger have started taking its toll. Some cockers aver that off
syndrome is due to drug overdose, constipation or
being coop-stale. Often, a drug-overdosed cock will be listless. A constipated one will
show no interest in fighting since he is
preoccupied with his bowel movement and a coop-stale cock is sluggish and sleepy. But
primarily, I think the real cause of the off
syndrome is hunger. You might say that making the cock hungry is what we are doing
during pointing. Yes, partly correct, since
we withhold feeds, but remember that nutrients are still absorbed by the body even
after the grains and other stuff are already
digested. Once the nutrients are consumed, hunger will be coupled with lack of energy
and essential nutrients, which makes the
situation very critical and harmful. In pointing, we want the cocks to be empty but not
hungry. Thus, while limbering before the
actual fight, a cock, which is jittery, easily agitated, and crazy for food, is off. He has
his mind on food, not on the fight.
To extend the point, you may feed a few grains of cracked corn or teaspoon of your
pointing feed a few hours before limbering.
To hasten the onset of the point, feed less in your last feeding. The point cannot be
maintained once it sets in. It progresses, so
time your pointing procedure well that the actual fight falls within the 4 to 6 hours that
the peak period is in.
To avoid the off syndrome, know the right amount and correct administration of drugs
you are using. Avoid constipation and
coop-staleness by limbering often and checking your room temperature in case it is too
cold. Feel the cock for any signs of fever.
This is a sure indication of being off and sick. If too much moisture is noticed thru the
droppings, give a few pellets or cracked
corn to draw out body moisture. However, a cock, which loses 70 grams or more on
fight day, must not be fought. He must be sick.
If ever he gains weight while pointing (which I think will never happen), there is no
cause for alarm if he is empty.
V. Exercises During The KEEP The Rotation Method
There are a thousand and one ways of training a gamecock. Different trainers have
different styles and different procedures. In my
years of cocking, I have looked up to local and foreign cocking greats whom I
happened to meet and have acquainted myself with
during those years. Meeting the likes of James Pope and Buddy Mann proved very
informative and helpful in my personal quest for
proper training of my gamecocks. For James Pope, sparring is the best exercise or
training for roosters; for Buddy Mann, it is a
combination of natural exercises and table workouts. From them and from my personal
experience, I share to you most of what I
know about exercises during the Keep.
Since my first sparring session, I have noticed that every time a cock fights, he pants;
he pants heavily specially during summer
months; he also pants excessively when he has too much moisture in his body.
Therefore, the main concern of a trainer during the
Keep is to develop the cocks coping mechanisms to lessen panting. Panting is a sign
that the cocks body system is stressed such
that his heartbeat increases to supply more oxygen to his organs. Respiration is
naturally agitated. Exercises further enhance the
cocks coping mechanisms.
First of all, I would like to make it clear that training a gamecock really begins from the
time he was hatched. Proper rearing and
nutrition are, for the most part, the backbone of training. One cannot do much in a 21
or 14 day Keep, other than to keep the
cocks alert, increase their stamina and tone the muscles. Power comes with breeding,
and muscles are developed during the
rearing stage and pre-conditioning. Training should help promote flexibility, strength,
and muscle toning, contouring and
cardiovascular endurance. No amount of exertions can improve the constitution,
circulatory and respiratory capabilities of sickly
birds. So, start them while they are young and properly care for them while they grow.
During the Keep, a trainer aims to make the cocks always alert because this is precisely
what they need during the battle. Agility,
reflex and quick thinking is an asset in fights lasting, sometimes, for just a few seconds.
You must avoid what we call Boredom
Disease Syndrome where the animals mope, become listless and disinterested.
Another objective of doing exercises during the Keep is to tone the muscles of the
cocks. Toning is different from muscle
development as the latter is gained during the growing and pre-conditioning stages,
while toning is simply working on what you
already have. With toned muscles, the cocks are relaxed, not muscle-bound and never
coop-stale.
There are several views regarding training exercises for fighting cocks. Older cockers
before, subscribe to the manual or table
exercises, which mean the trainers supervision and handling to exercise the cocks. This
finds the necessity of various exercises like
the tailing, flies, flips, turnover, etc. Other advocates the natural or not much
human interference on the movements of cocks in
training. This brought about the Rotation Method and the use of fly pens, and scratch
boxes to exercise cocks. Both systems have
their own advantages and disadvantages, and I feel a combination of both is necessary
to exercise gamecocks properly.
The Rotation Method. Rotation here simply means the transfer of cocks from the cord,
to the fly pen, to the scratch box, to the
resting coops, then back to the cord or tee-pee. For this method, a trainer must have a
fly-pen measuring 12 in length, 4 wide and
12 high. If you could have pens with bigger dimensions, the better. There must be an
adjustable roost, which can be positioned 4,
6, or 8 feet above the ground. The litter floor is a mixture of horse manure, river sand,
and garden soil. The loose texture of the
ground cushions the cocks landing and also encourages them to do some dusting.
The Scratch Box. The scratch box, on the other hand, is made of wood with the
following dimensions: 3 long, 3 wide, and 3 high.
Make it high enough so that the wings are not obstructed when the cock flaps them.
The box should have wooden floors to ensure
proper extension of the legs when the rooster scratches with a full swing of the legs
extending back. Scratch materials like corn
schucks, banana leaves, or hay must be placed in the box. The box is intended for
scratching, not dusting, so dont put soil in it.
The Tee-pee. The tee-pee or cord area should be their sleeping grounds, and where
they catch the morning dew and sunbathe in
the morning. Position your tee-pees facing east or where sunlight casts its rays in the
morning.
The Coop. A special coop for resting is also needed when you do rotations. This is a
small coop measuring 2 wide, 2 long and 2
tall. The cocks are brought here to rest during the day a kind of a siesta place.
Transferring the cock from one pen to the other after spending some time in it does the
rotation. When transferring from one pen
to the next, always wash the cocks face and legs before placing him in the next pen.
Use a mist sprayer with Vet Rx. This opens
their lungs and improves their breathing. In the scratch box, encourage scratching by
throwing in teaspoon oat groats per bird.
For the first day, place a little scratch material and let the cock scratch for only five (5)
minutes. On the second, increase the
amount of scratch materials and increase the duration of scratching to 10 minutes.
Increase the amount of the scratching materials
and the duration of the scratching up to the 7th day where the materials are almost 6
inches deep and the duration of the exercise,
30 minutes long. Starting on the 8th day, decrease the amount of scratching materials
and the duration of the exercise in such a
way that you reach zero on the 12th day of the Keep.
There are different materials used as scratch for light and heavy exercises. I use
banana leaves for light scratching done only
during the summer months, and use corn schucks or sugar cane leaves for heavy
scratching done only during the cold months. Hay
can be classified as an in-between type of scratch material. You yourself must decide
whether your cock needs light or heavy
exercises and adjust accordingly.
Do the scratching exercise when the cock is hungry or else, you will never get the
desired results. I place my cocks in scratch boxes
as early as 4 in the morning when they start to feel their hunger coming in. After
scratching, I pick him up, wash his face and feet,
and then return him to the tee-pee for sun and dew.
By 7 a.m., I feed the cocks their conditioning ration for the day. You may find a
discussion on the conditioning feeds I prepare in
the I. Feeding During The KEEP.
At 9 a.m. take the cocks from the cord, wash their faces and feet, and place each in
their respective fly pens until noon.
At 12 noons, place them in the resting coops. This resting should not be more than 2
hours to prevent coop-staleness.
By 2 p.m. get a pair of the rested cocks and do a salida or do a kahig and allow
them two buckles while holding on to their tails.
After the salida, place the cocks again on cord while they await feeding. During the
night, we do the table workouts."