Fibre Yarn

Fabric
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TEXTILE
A textile is a flexible material comprised of a network of natural or artificial fibers often
referred to as thread or yarn. Yarn is produced by spinning raw wool fibers, linen, cotton,
or other material on a spinning wheel to produce long strands known as yarn.[1] Textiles
are formed by weaing, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or pressing fibers together.
FLOW CHART

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SIZING
*uring weaing of fabric, the strength of yarn is enhanced by si+ing so that it could
bear the stresses during processing. This is necessary as otherwise the yarn will
fre,uently split and the weaing would become ery difficult. -ibres are ery flexible in
their original state and when spun into yarns retain their elastic nature. .y nature, the
yarn is also prone to breaking during the normal weaing processes. !ince warps yarn
hae to bear a lot of stresses si+ing of warps is usually done.
OBJECT OF SIZING
The ob/ects of si+ing prior to weaing are to protect the yarns from abrasion in the
healds and reed against each other, to strengthen them, and by the application of oils
and fats to lubricate them. A si+e may occasionally be applied to carpets 0e.g. starch1
occasionally to wool fabrics 0e.g. animal glue1.
DESIZING
*esi+ing is the process of remoing the si+e material from the warn yarns in woen
fabrics.
OBJECT OF DESIZING
The purpose of desi+ing is to eliminate si+ing products in order to ensure the success of
scour boiling 2 bleaching 2 the production of faultless dyes. .efore starting this
processes it is adisable to determine the type of the si+es so as to facilitate their
remoal.
SIZING AGENTS
!i+ing agents are selected on the basis of type of fabric, enironmental friendliness,
case of remoal, cost considerations, effluent treatments, etc.
NATURAL SIZING AGENTS
$atural si+ing agents are based on natural substances and their deriaties:
!tarch and starch deriaties: natie starch, degradation starch and chemically
modified starch products
3ellulosic deriaties: carboxymethylcellulose 03431, methylcellulose and
oxycthlycellulose
"rotein5based starches: glue, gelatin, albumen
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SYNTHETIC SIZING AGENTS
"olyacrylates
4odified polyesters
"olyinyl alcohols 0"(A1
!tyrene6maleic acid copolymers.
DESIZING PROCESSES
*esi+ing, irrespectie of what the desi+ing agent is, inoles impregnation of the fabric
with the desi+ing agent, allowing the desi+ing agent to degrade or sollubilise the si+e
material, and tinally to wash out the degradation products. The ma/or desi+ing processes
are:
'n+ymatic desi+ing of starches on cotton fabrics
7xidatie desi+ing
Acid desi+ing
OXIDATIVE DESIZING
#n oxidatie desi+ing, the risk of damage to the cellulose fiber is ery high, and its use for
desi+ing is increasingly rare. 7xidatie desi+ing uses potassium or sodium persulphate
or sodium bromite as an oxidi+ing agent.
ACID DESIZING
3old solutions of dilute sulphuric or hydrochloric acids are used to hydroly+e the starch,
howeer, this has the disadantage of also affecting the cellulose fiber in cotton fabrics.
SCOURING
3otton contains natural impurities fats and waxes and the remoal of fats and waxes and
dirt is called scouring.and due to repelling with water these impurities causes improper
wetting of fabric so the remoal of these impurities is necessary.
Fats and ils are glycerol esters of higher fatty acid .there is no difference between fats
and oil the oly distinction being that fats are solid at room temperature while oils are
li,uid
Waxes are compound formed by esterification of fatty acid .
WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF SCOURING?
The basic purpose of scouring is to remoe oils, fats and waxes together with
other impurities. The fabric or yarn may contain oil and adentitious dirt collected during
manufacture
These all must be remoed to get better dyeing properties and in other later
process in textile processing unit 0printing,finishing e.t.c1 .to enhance the ,uality of fabric
and also the hydrophobic fats penetration of water soluble dyes so they must be
remoed.

SCOURING AGENTS
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The basic scouring agents are soap and detergent
TREATMENT OF FABRIC
!couring inole the treatment of afabric with alkali at ahigh temperature .the prime
function of caustic scours are to soften the impurities and to emulsify waxes,oils,making
the fabric absorbent for further bleaching process.fats and waxes are remoed by
detergent treatment and emulsification.!a"e !a"e s#$l% &e ta'e( i( "%e" t e(s$"e
t#at
&ax is remoed in such a way that strength of yarn is not disturbed
&ax and fat should remoed completely
ADVANTAGE OF SCOURING
!olent dissole almost all oil and waxes
They hae low li,uid surface tension
8e,uiring less time and energy
CHE)ICALS USED
Why we use NAOH in this practical?
&e use $A79 to completely break down protein and pectatesthat are mainly
present in the layer and conert these into water :soluble products.that is water
insoluble substance pectose in pectic acid to conert into pecticacid soda which is
soluble.the oils and fats are conert into soap and this is turn in emulsifies waxes.
Why we do washing?
&e do washing to remoed emulsifies waxes.when scouring is complete the
li,uor is discharged and we do washing with hot water in order to remoe impurities
which are not settleand stick to the fibre s and are remoed more completely.
Why we use sodium carbonate?
&e use sodium carbonate by irtue of its colloidal nature seres to keep the
reacted impurities suspended and reduce their tendency to settle on scour fabric.
Why we used an emulsifer?
&e use emulsifier or surfactant to reduce the surface tension of the scouring
li,uor and so helps in its ,uick penetration into the fibres.
Why we use Wetting agent?
#t should be stand at high temp and strong alkaline solution.
Why we doTesting?
Testing shows that whether your scouring is complete or not.if impurities is still present
t#a( it is remoed by counter current flow of water in a machine namely rope machine
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BLEACHING
WHY WE DO BLEACHING?
After doing desi+ing and scouring the fabric could be wetting easily, wetting property is
improe but it has got some impurities in fabric remains. that is fabric is not sufficient for
use that;s why we do bleaching
WHAT IS BLEACHING?
After scouring fabric contains some natural coloring impurities and husk which hae to
be broken down either with oxidi+ing or reducing agent this is called bleaching "
!olubli+ation of coloring matter is called bleaching< bleaching is done in such a way that
the strength of the fabric is not change
MAIN OBJECTIVE OF BLEACHING PROCESS
To achiee good white color
To #mproe brightness of full shape
To remoe the appearance of fabric by remoing the seed husk
BLEACHING AGENT
The chemical which are used for bleaching purpose is called &lea!#i(* a*e(t there are
two types
reduction0hypochlorite1
oxidi+ing0hydrogen per oxide1
CHEMISTRY OF BLEACHING
+. BLEACHING WITH H,-OCHLORITE
#t is cheap the aailable chlorine is responsible for bleaching chlorine is the actie
constituent of hypochlorite but the main problem is that after bleaching the chlorine may
damage the strength of fabric
yellow color is obtain on the fabric
due to the aboe reason the chloride bleaching is restricted and the peroxide bleaching
is used.
.. BLEACHING WITH H
.
O
.
H/%"*e( 0e" xi%e:1
!trong oxidi+ing agents liberate atomic oxygen that oxidi+es the coloring matter in
alkaline conditions and make the substrate white.now a days bleaching is done by
oxidi+ing agent because it not gie yellowish color or effect on fabric
H.O. H
2
2HO.
3
H.O. 2 NAOH Na
2
4H.O5 2 HO.
1

ADVANTAGE OF H
2
O
2
OVER HYPOCHLORITE BLEACHING
lower loss in weight of goods
reduced oxidatie damage
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economy in water usage and so lesser cost of effluent treatment
EFFECTS OF CHE)ICAL USED
1. Why we add stabilizer?
The decomposition reaction may continue long after the bleaching process has been
finished due to free radical. =ncontrolled decomposition leads to
uneconomical use of 9>7>
poor whiteness
degrade the cotton fabric
#t is cleared that some method of controlling the reaction is re,uired which is normally
proided by a bleach bath stabili+er. &e add stabili+er to minimi+e the damage to
substrate and controlled decomposition of 9>7>.
. Why we add N
A
OH?
&e add $A79 to proide alkaline medium and also for neutrali+ation of 9
?
to form water
and also to solubili+e the complex which is form by coloring matter and 97>
5
.and also to
increase the rate of dissociation of 9>7> by increasing the conc. of $A79.and also to
increase the absorbency.
!. Why we maintain the "H 11
To proide alkaline medium and to get best bleaching whiteness therefore we ad/ust the
ph by adding $A79 solution.
#. Why we increase the temperature?
The decomposition of 9>7> is ery slowly at room temperature but it is actiated by
increasing the temperature of addition of alkali that is by increasing the concentration of
alkali.
D,E
A %/e can generally be described as a colored substance that has an affinity to the
substrate to which it is being applied. The dye is generally applied in an a,ueous
solution, and may re,uire a mordant to improe the fastness of the dye on the fiber.
THEORY OF DYEING
There are three main steps of in dyeing of a substrate namely
The first step is composed of that dye molecule escape li,uor and /oins the li,uor
substrate interface layer ,and then finally absorbed by the substrate
*iffusion process takes place and dye molecule penetrates into the centre of the
fabric
.onding between the dye molecukes and the substrate takes place
HOW FABRIC IS DYE?
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6a&"i! is dipped into the dye and then stirred to distribute color eenly. @ater, the material
may be treated again with another chemical in order to make it colorfast, which means
its color will not run or fade.
DYESTUFFS
any of a large group of chemicals almost exclusiely organic in nature, used for the
coloring of textiles, inks, food products, and other substances. 4odern industrial
terminology defines a dyestuff as a product containing pure organic dye and cutting
agents or fillers that make the product easier to handle. *yes are not to be confused with
pigments, which are puleri+ed colored substances that must be mixed with adhesie
binding agents before being applied to surfaces.
The color properties of organic compounds depend on their structure. D/est$66s must
be capable of entering and coloring textile fibers or other substances. 3hemical radicals,
known as auxochromes, hae the property of anchoring the desired dye effectiely. They
are acidic or basic and gie rise to acid and basic dye salts. #n the case of some
compounds the addition of an auxochrome group also changes a colorless compound
into a colored one.
D/est$66s can be classified according to their use or by their chemical structure. The
chemical classification is generally made according to the nucleus of the compound.
Among the more important dye groups are the a+o dyes, which include butter yellow and
3ongo red<
Rea!ti7e %/es utili+e a chromophore containing a substituent that is capable of
directly reacting with the fibre substrate. The coalent bonds that attach reactie
dye to natural fibers make it among the most permanent of dyes. A3oldA reactie
dyes, such as "rocion 4B, 3ibacron -, and *rimarene ), are ery easy to use
because the dye can be applied at room temperature. 8eactie dyes are by far
the best choice for dyeing cotton and other cellulose fibers at home or in the art
studio.
They have ability to form covalent bond with cellulose, due to the strong primary
bonding between dyestuff & fiber, it posses high level of wash fastness.
The major draw back of reactive dye is hydrolysis in which dye instead of reacting with fiber
reacts with hydroxyl group of base.
VARIOUS IMPORTANT FACTORS OF DYEING
the factors which influence rate of dyeing reaction are
time
temp
pressure
alkalis
electrolytes
li,uor ratio
the factor which influence the leelness of dyeing process are
solubility of dyestuff
dye bath circulation
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ratio of absorption
migration of dyestuff
METHODS
*yes are applied to textile goods by dyeing from dye solutions and by printing from dye
pastes. dyeing can be carried out by using arious process i.e
exhaust
semi continuous
continuous
EXHAUST )ETHOD
exhaust process recommended for dyeing small batches of different shades,in exhaust
process the dye li,uor or substrate or both can be moing.
CHE)ICALS USED
Why soda ash was added while dyeing the $abric?
!oda Ash or !odium 3arbonate is used as an alkali fixatie for reactie dyes.
Why caustic soda was added while dyeing the $abric?
@ye or !odium hydroxide is a strong alkali used with at dyes such as #ndigo. #f cotton is
dipped into a strong alkaline solution such as lithium hydroxide, caustic soda, or
potassium hydroxide, the fibers will swell and shrink. #f the fibers are placed under
tension while in this swollen state and then rinsed with water, the alkali will be remoed
and a permanent silk5like luster will result.
Alternatiely, after swelling, if the alkali is rinsed off when the fiber is in its shrunk state,
an increase in luster may not be discernable, but the fibers will fix in that shrunk state,
thus giing good elasticity to external stress.
What is the Efect of Caustic Alkali on Cotton ?In the !e"n# $%
&$tt$n' "t "( )e** +n$)n th,t "% t$$ -.&h &,.(t"& ($, "(
.(e "n /,t !e( ,n $the0 !e( )h"&h .(e &,.(t"& ($,' the
!e1( ,2"*"t! t$ 2e ,2($02e )"** e&*"ne' th"( tenen&! 2e"n#
e(3e&",**! (t0$n# "n )e,+ ,*+,*"ne /,t !e(4
This is thought to be the result of competition for absorption between the dye and the
caustic soda. 3austic soda has an affinity for cellulose fibers, and through routine dyeing
experience, it is well known that the remoal of caustic soda through rinsing is ery
difficult when compared with the remoal of acid.
Why reacti%e dye is used?
high process reliability in terms of salt, li,uor ratio, temperature and time
dependency
ery good reproducibility and efficiency
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high rate of fixation and short fixation time
ery good combinability resulting in uniform dyeing performance
easy washing off een in deep shades
high solubility in presence of electrolytes
suitable for exhaust and continuous processes
high fastness leel
high economy in dyeing of deep shades using D"i8a"e(e Na7/ CL1R.
REFERENCES
&et processing of cellulosic textile by Ahmed nia+, from internet
&et processing of cellulosic textile by Ahmed nia+, from internet
&orkshop on industrial training in textile chemical technologies
*yeing and chemical processing by troutman
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