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Varanasi Weavers in Crisis

Rahul Kodkani
UCSD Chapter
http://www.udai.org
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Outline
Introduction
Varanasi silk industry
Reasons for the problems
Governments role
NGOs involvement
What have we, at Udai done?
What can we do in the future?
http://www.udai.org
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Indian Handicrafts Industry
Second largest employer
No. of Artisans: 23 Million
Exports: $ 3.6 billion
Software services exports: $ 23 billion
No. of Software professionals: 1.6
million
http://www.udai.org
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Handloom Weaving
6.3 million handloom weavers
- Rajasthan: Jaipur
- Uttar Pradesh: Varanasi (estimate: 500,000)
- Tamil Nadu: Kanchi
- West Bengal: Kolkata, Howrah and Baluchari
- Karnataka: Hubli and Mangalore
- Delhi: (cloth for drapes, bedcovers, sofa covers, etc.)
Reports suggest this has reduced by 1 or 2 million Reports suggest this has reduced by 1 or 2 million
in the last 10 years* !! in the last 10 years* !!
http://www.udai.org
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Interesting Facts
The use of printing blocks in India goes as far
back as 3000 B.C.
India used to export fabrics to China as early as
4
th
Century B.C.
There is evidence that they were copied even in
ancient times!
Jacquard Loom invented in 1805, still being used
today
India is the worlds largest handloom producing
country
http://www.udai.org
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http://www.udai.org
Varanasi & its Silk Industry
- Ancient Holy City
- Fast growing tourism, transportation hub
- Famous for Banarasi Pan , movie called Banarasi Babu ,
Banaras ka Kalakand ( from movie Golmal !)
- Banarasi Sari : often called Taj Mahal of Indian Saris
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History of Varanasi Silk
http://www.udai.org
Taj Mahal of Indian Silk
Some people believe it has a reference in rig veda
(Hiranya Vastra)
In ancient times, made from just gold and silver!
Sari Weaving reached its zenith in Mughal era.
It is said that during his funeral, Buddha was
covered with a Varanasi Silk
Takes 3 days to 6 months
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http://www.udai.org
Varanasi Silk
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Varanasi Silk Carpet
http://www.udai.org
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Varanasi Silk
http://www.udai.org
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How are they made?
http://www.udai.org
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How are they made?
http://www.udai.org
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http://www.udai.org
The grave situation today
Varanasi Silk Industry in a turmoil
Half a million people involved in the Varanasi
Silk Industry
Since 1995 demand for silk has been shrinking
60 % of handlooms are idle
Many Varanasi weavers struggle for existence
in appalling poverty
Weavers and their children are suffering from
starvation and malnutrition
Suicides and starvation deaths (~ 50) reported
Art of weaving these saris can face extinction
Similar signs seen in Andhra Pradesh, Tamil
Nadu
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http://www.udai.org
The grave situation today
Human Rights
starvation/malnutrition 48 deaths, suicides
Child Labor
Children are working in looms as well as in agarbatti factories
Languishing Arts/Crafts
60 % of handloom weaving work closed
Fair Trade
Unfair trade practices, poor working conditions
Copyright/Patents/Trade policies
Indian Varanasi Sari is now Made in China
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http://www.udai.org
Reasons for this situation
Changing Fashion Trends
Experts say this is attributed to
Bollywood and TV influence
Most movies show shaadi with
the heroin wearing lehnga-choli
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http://www.udai.org
Reasons for this situation
Changing Fashion Trends
Embroidered saris, lehnga-choli are
more in demand due to Bollywood
influence
5 people take 4-5 days to make an
embroidered set
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Notes: * Data for April to October only; Data for the year 2000-01 is not available
3305.65 334.30 0.00 0.00 617.87 34.20 2332.79 2005-06
2803.50 118.30 6.77 171.83 821.93 5.24 1845.84 2004-05
4103.28 255.38 2.10 2.07 848.97 22.37 2972.00 2003-04
2379.28 119.33 29.29 6.34 458.19 137.00 1629.14 2002-03
2915.73 266.70 14.79 6.63 420.34 385.28 1842.00 2001-02
1859.50 289.99 55.79 6.17 53.44 355.40 1098.72 1999-00*
3201.83 208.42 47.26 10.84 116.83 1026.20 1792.28 1998-99
2316.12 141.81 81.72 16.49 50.65 902.25 1123.20 1997-98
2136.44 85.33 75.65 7.14 86.56 798.37 1083.39 1996-97
2046.94 96.24 114.31 38.27 26.90 550.60 1220.61 1995-96
2657.25 128.47 67.95 36.89 39.33 870.68 1513.92 1994-95
2346.52 51.99 116.90 28.33 45.04 763.03 131.25 1993-94
Total
Turnover
Others Carpets Readymades Scarves/
Stoles
Saris Dress
Material
Year
EXPORT OF NATURAL SILK GOODS FROM CERTIFICATION CENTER, CSB, BENARES
Value in rupees lakh
http://www.udai.org
Changing Fashion Trends
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http://www.udai.org
Reasons for this situation
Globalization & Govt. Policy
1995-1998 Deve Gowdaa Govt. banned Chinese Silk Imports
- Varanasi Weavers could only use Bangalore Silk
- Chinese silk was smuggled in because of its superior quality
- Weavers demanded an OGL (open general license) to import Chinese Silk
1999 Govt allows Chinese plain crepe fabrics import
- The Chinese crepes feel smoother and are of better quality
- China gives very high subsidies and has a better power infrastructure
- Chinese traders brought silk yarn and used local weavers to replicate the Banarasi
Sari
Chinese silk Indian Silk
$1-1.25 per meter $2.5-4 per meter
Chinese silk fabric exports to India grew by a whopping 6500 per cent in 5 years
( 2001 2005) 1.5 million meters in 2000-01 to 91 million meters in 2004-05!
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http://www.udai.org
Reasons for this situation
Globalization & Govt. Policy
WTO negotiations called NAMA
Negotiations on non-agricultural
market acesss * NAMA proposes to
liberalize manufacturing and
industrial trade using Swiss Formula
Developed countries are seeking
elimination and harmonization of
import tariffs on certain sectors
such as textile, footwear, and leather
NAMA could make it difficult
to raise import tariffs
Recent negotiations (July
2006) have failed..Phew!
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http://www.udai.org
Reasons for this situation
Intellectual Property
Chinese copies of Banarasi Silk are being sold in India as
Master craftmen lured to Nepal and China and designs copied
Chevy truck, Bajaj auto-rickshaw has been copied in China and is being
sold in China
Fake medicines have caused around 200 thousand deaths in China
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http://www.udai.org
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Surat copies too!
http://www.udai.org
Surat, Gujarat has 900,000 powerloom workers.
Poor quality copies of designs are made on powerlooms
They cost 1/10
th
the price of Varanasi Saris
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http://www.udai.org
Other Reasons for the Crisis
Gaddidar middleman exploits
(post dated check, no payment)
Co-operatives: only 1/5
th
of weavers are under a co-op
society, and they are ineffective
Usually run by traders
Caste system Most of the weavers are dalits, obc and
Muslims which are minorities and backward
Weavers finding it difficult to diversify to products
other than sarees (stoles, cushion covers etc.)
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Not to forget: Animal Rights
Silk is derived from the cocoons of larvae,
they are steamed or gassed alive in their cocoons.
Approximately 3,000 silkworms die to make every pound of silk
Some argue though, that without the silk industry, the silkworm
may have become extinct by now.
http://www.udai.org
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Governments Role
http://www.udai.org
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Governments Role
http://www.udai.org
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But.
http://www.udai.org
The Handloom Reservation Act enacted in 1985
(implementation began in 1993)
Under this Act, 11 textile items were reserved for the
exclusive production of handlooms.
However, despite the demands of weavers, the Act has not
been implemented efficiently and effectively
Several Government bodies exist
(Development Commission Handlooms, CSB, EDI, ..)
Various programs such from technology upgrade, marketing etc.
exist
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In recent news
http://www.udai.org
Eight retailers and textile companies have tied up with weavers in
Varanasi to give a boost textile clusters.
Some of the retail chains that have signed up are Pantaloons,
Big Bazaar, Fab India, Calico, Advantage Shilpi and UP Exporters.
Facilitated by Entrepreneurship Development Institute of India (EDI)
through its Integrated Handloom Cluster Development Programme.
Through this agreement, retailers purchase a specified quantity
of raw material from weavers on a regular basis.
FAB India has placed Rs. 2.4 million worth of orders
PM Manmohan Singh announced Rs.1000 crores allocated for low
interest loans to the weavers (Rs. 25,000 without guarantee)
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Trademarks established
http://www.udai.org
Handloom TM established last year.
Promote Handloom in India and
international markets
Database of weavers and supplies to be developed
through this system
SILKMARK: for pure natural silk
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NGOs involved
http://www.udai.org
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Some of theNGOs involved
http://www.udai.org
Crafts Council of India
(marketing and branding, design improvements and
Diversification, policy issues)
Crafts Revival Trust
(marketing and branding, design improvements and
Diversification, policy issues)
Craftmark (All India Artisans & Craftworkers Welfare Assoc.)
initiative to help Indian craftworkers connect to mainstream markets
PVCHR
(human rights, policy issues, awareness, VARANASI WEAVERS TRUST)
CRY & ASHA
(child relief, education)
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US based Orgs
http://www.udai.org
Aid to artisans
Aid to Artisans (ATA) has changed the lives of thousands of artisans
through its "Market Link" programs of product design, production and
business skills.
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Udais involvement
http://www.udai.org
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How has Udai been helping out
http://www.udai.org
Posted video on YOUTUBE for PVCHR
About 1500 people have viewed this video (without us really
spreading it)
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Udais contribution so far
http://www.udai.org
Raising Awareness during UN Charter Day (with help from
Crafts Council of West Bengal) and a couple of other events
Raised $180 through silent auctions and donations with help
from Art of Living Foundation
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What Next?
http://www.udai.org
What can we do with no or little funds?
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Online Marriage Portals
Online Marriage Portals
72 723,549 Success Stories 3,549 Success Stories, Over 50 matches a day! , Over 50 matches a day!
Over 50 matches a day! => ~ 2190 saris a a year
Assumptions: - 80 % Sari users
- 30 % North Indians
- 10 % go for Varanasi Silks
- 5 saris bought by a family
- 10 days per sari for a family (actually some take as many as 3 months to make!)
Income to ~ 60 families just using shadi.com
Also: - Outreach potential to 500K visitors per month on these websites in US alone!
CRT, CCI all are very excited about this and would like Udai to start connecting with
these online marriage portals
http://www.udai.org
Can we collaborate with them to list stores in different cities/online sales?
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http://www.udai.org
Shaadi Style Magazine
Magazine catered to South Asian Women in US focusing on
bridal fashion, wedding planning etc.
Helping CCI and others to partnering with them
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http://www.udai.org
US Media Awareness
Indian media: Articles in TOI, Hindustan Times, Hindu,
Business Standard, Economic Times etc.
UK: BBC was the first to really report this issue! PVCHR
initiated this
US media: no news coverage till now
Udai can help in this
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http://www.udai.org
And we can also
Already networked with PVCHR, ATA, CCI,
CCWB,CRT, AICAA!
SD Museum of Man, Museum of Art holds
exhibitions on other cultures
- Funding from city. Companies such as Qualcomm
- We can seek funds from various sources both
Indian and US
Build website for Varanasi Weavers Trust (PVCHR)
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Calling Bollywood !
http://www.udai.org
Aishwarya LOVES Varanasi Silks
Abhishek won a UP State Cultural Award
For their much hyped wedding, Bacchan family bought
22 saris for their families
Ash has her own NGO! Tsunami victims
and is involved with an eye donation NGO
After she bought a few saris, demand for Varanasi
Saris received a big boost!!
We are hoping she can become a brand ambassador
Do you know anyone who knows anyone who may know
someone who can ask her ?
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Varanasi Silk
used by Dalai
Lama and other
monks in Tibet
as well!