Lonely Planet

305

Jeollabuk-do

The southwestern province of Jeollabuk-do (www.jeonbuk.go.kr) is Koreas rice bowl. The

image of white egrets standing in terraced rice fields is a provincial icon. As Koreas agricultural heartland, this fertile, green area has influenced Korean cuisine more than any other
part of the country.
For foodies, no trip to Korea is complete without eating your way through Jeollabuk-do.
The provincial capital city of Jeonju is a must-stop for any fan of Korean food, especially
for its most well-known export, bibimbap, a dish of rice, meat and vegetables served up by
countless restaurants nationwide and abroad.

Jeollabuk-do is deeply tied to its traditional culture and roots. Buddhist temples and folk
villages abound. Modern Jeonju bumps up against its historic urban village of hanok (traditional houses) containing craft workshops, museums and rustic teashops. The province is the
birthplace of pansori, a traditional musical drama performed by a singer and drummer.

HIGHLIGHTS
Get lost exploring the back alleys of the

fascinating Jeonju Hanok Maeul village

(p307)
Retrace Koreas most famous love story,

Chunhyang-jeon, at the romantic Gwanghallu-won Garden in Namwon (p313)

Jeonju
Seonyu-do

Muju
Ski Resort

Maisan
Provincial Park

Ski or snowboard the slopes at Muju Ski

Resort (p312)
Zip round Seonyu-do (p317) on a nippy

Seonunsan
Provincial Park

Namwon

quad bike before relaxing on the beach

Amble through pretty Seonunsan

Provincial Park (p315) to a giant Buddha

carving on a cliff
Be amazed by the unique rock-pinnacle temple garden in Maisan Provincial Park (p311) in

the shadow of Horse Ears Mountain

TELEPHONE CODE: 063

POPULATION: 2 MILLION

AREA: 8050 SQ KM

JEOLLABUK-DO

Rural Jeollabuk-do is an outdoor-lovers paradise. Much of this province is parkland. With

unspoilt national and provincial parks covering its beautiful mountains, this rural province
offers some of Koreas finest get-away-from-it-all hikes and scenery. In summer, sun worshippers head out to the white sandy beaches of the West Sea islands like Seonyu-do. In
the winter, thrill-seekers descend on the slopes of Muju Ski Resort, offering the highest and
most picturesque slopes in Korea.

306 J E O L L A B U K- D O J e o n j u

lonelyplanet.com

0
0

JEOLLABUK-DO

WEST SEA
(Yellow Sea)

CHUNGCHEONGNAM-DO

50 km
30 miles

Daedunsan
Provincial Park

Yeongdong

CHUNGCHEONGBUK-DO

Daedunsan
(878m)

Mireuk-sa

To
Eocheong-do

Muju

Gunsan

Un

der

Iksan

Saemangeum
Comprehensive
Seonyu-do Development
Area

Anguk-sa

Co

nst

ruc

Gyeokpo

Wi-do

JEOLLABUK-DO

See Seonunsan
Provincial
Park Map (p315)

Muju
Ski
Resort

tio

26

JEONJU

Moaksan
(794m)
Moaksan
Provincial
Park

Buan

11

See Deogyusan
National
Park Map (p312)

Jinan
Ammaisan
Sutmaisan
(685m)
(678m)

Gimje

Geumsan-sa

See Byeonsan Bando

National
Park Map (p316)

GYEONGSANGBUK-DO

17

Maisan
Provincial
Park

To Daegu
(70km)

Geochang

Galtam
Reservoir

Jeongeup

See Naejangsan
National
Park Map (p314)

GYEONGSANGNAM-DO

Naejangsan
National Park

Naejangsan
(763m)

Gochang

Damyang-ho

Namwon

Sunchang

Jangsong-ho

Jiri-san
National
Park

Hwaeom-sa

JEOLLANAM-DO

History

The Donghak rebellion, led by Chon Pong-jun,

took place mainly in Jeollabuk-do in 1893 when
a ragtag force of peasants and slaves, armed
with various homemade weapons, seized
Jeonju fortress and defeated King Gojongs
army, before being destroyed by Japanese
forces. Their demands included the freeing of
slaves, better treatment of the chonmin or lowborn, the redistribution of land, the abolition
of taxes on fish and salt, and the punishment
of corrupt government officials. Jeollabuk-do
and Jeollanam-do were one joint province until
1896; Jeonju was the capital of this combined
province. Tourism has become an important
source of income in recent years, thanks mainly
to its numerous national parks.

National & Provincial Parks

An atmospheric temple, coastal views and
a waterfall are features of Byeonsan Bando
National Park (p316). Daedunsan Provincial Park
(p311) is a year-round, outdoor-lovers paradise with hiking and skiing. Maisan Provincial
Park (p311) is famous for its Horse Ears
mountains and mystical stone towers.

Moaksan Provincial Park (p311) has a superb

temple. Naejangsan National Park (p314) has a
great ridge hike. Pretty Seonunsan Provincial
Park (p315) is famous for its giant Buddha
cliff carving.

Getting There & Around

If you arrive by train or bus, base yourself in

Jeonju, where buses radiate to every nook and
corner of the province.

JEONJU

pop 622,000
Jeonju (www.jeonju.go.kr), the provincial capital,

is famous for being the birthplace of both the

Joseon dynasty and Koreas most well-known
culinary delight, bibimbap (rice, meat, egg
and vegetables with a hot sauce). Centrally located, the city is the perfect base from which
to explore Jeollabuk-do as its the regional
hub for buses and trains. The downtown
historical folk village has many outstanding hanok buildings housing museums, cute
teahouses and workshops offering handmade
souvenirs like paper products, fans, dolls,
boxes and more.

lonelyplanet.com

J E O L L A B U K- D O J e o n j u 307

Information

Sights & Activities

Citibank (Daedong-gil) Global ATM and foreign currency.

IBK 365 The blue machine under the pedestrian bridge is

JEONJU HANOK MAEUL

Just southeast of Jeonjus modern downtown is Hanok Maeul (http://hanok.jeonju.go.kr), a

wonderful historical urban neighbourhood
untouched by time. This maeul (village) has
more than 800 hanok (traditional Korean
houses), which is one of the largest such concentrations in the country. Residents retain
their old ways and traditions. Many of the
buildings contain museums, workshops,
restaurants, teahouses and boutiques. You
could spend all day exploring the narrow
maze of alleys and architecture. Pick up a
free English map at any tourist information
centre.

a global ATM.
KB Bank (Girin-ro) Global ATM and foreign currency
exchange.
Main post office (h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat)
Free internet access.
Main tourist information centre (%282 1338;
Taejo-ro) Free internet access.
Post office (China St)
Shinhan Bank (Girin-ro) Global ATM and foreigncurrency exchange.
Tourist information centre bus terminal (%281
2739; outside Express bus terminal); Taejo-ro (%232
6293; outside Gyeonggijeon)

0
0

JEONJU
2

To Train Station
(3.5km)

See Enlargement

500 m
0.3 miles

JEOLLABUK-DO

1
To Deokjin Park (3km);
Gunsan (70km)

0
0

200 m
0.1 miles

gi

Gi

rin

al

in

45

26

gi

1-

32
Yeoul-gil

8 To Lotte
Department Store (700m)

Taepye

Core Hotel

ongno

a
Pald

ls St

on
Je

6
Korea Exchange
Bank
25
St
41
27
Film
g St
16
Primus
ddin
Cinema g-ro
We
Maogok2-gil
30
un
y
k
35
38
ng
Chu
28
24
29
3
42
31
il
Chinese
hui-g
Gate
eonc 18
y
m
12 Cheo
Chinatown
22
4
39
5
14
37
19
7
9
-ro
Taejo 10
21
Hill
Jeonju Hanok
33
23
15
Maeul 17
34
13
36
G
Gazebo
Jeoarinae-g 20
11
n-gil
nju
il
Cheonbu
Stre
To Jungnim
am
To Geumsan-sa
Oncheon (10km)
(14km)
ksa

am

re

St

Gae

lro

Too

ju

3-g

il

43

St

1-gil
gok

ina

Ch

1-gil

Mae

Seoin

Eunhaeng

-ro

ijeon-gil

Gyeongg

5-

r
Te

44
40

am

o
Ge

-ro

308 J E O L L A B U K- D O J e o n j u

JEOLLABUK-DO

INFORMATION
Citibank ................................................. 1 C3
IBK 365 ATM....................................(see 27)
KB Bank .............................. 2 A1
Main Post Office .................. 3 C3
Main Tourist Information Centre
G .....................................4 D4
Post Office ............................. 5 B4
Shinhan Bank .................. 6 C3
Tourist Information Centre
G..................................... 7 C4
Tourist Information Centre
G..................................... 8 C2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Craft Treasures Centre
..................................9
Folding Fan Museum
GGG
OGP ...............................10
Gangam Calligraphy Museum
....................................11
Gyeonggijeon ....................12
Hanbyeokdang Pavilion
............................................. 13
Imokdae Pavilion ............. 14
Jeondong Catholic Church
.........................................15
Jeonju Gaeksa G..............16
Jeonju Hyanggyo ........ 17

D4

C4
C4
C4
D4
D4
C4
C3
D4

lonelyplanet.com

Jeonju Korean Paper Institute

......................... 18 D4
Jeonju Traditional Life
Experience Park
..............(see 30)
Kkotsuki Gongbang
....................................19 C4
Nambu Market ..............20 C4
Omokdae Pavilion ........... 21 D4
Oriental Medicine Culture
Centre ...........22 C4
Pungnam-mun ..................23 C4
Traditional Wine Museum
................................24 C3

EATING
Gimbap Maeul ..............33 C4
Jeonju-hyang .....................34 C4
Sambaekjip .........................35 B3
Traditional Culture Centre
............................... 36 D4
DRINKING
Daho Teahouse ............ 37 D4
Deepin .................................................38 C3
The Star ...............................................39 C4

SHOPPING
Core Department Store
SLEEPING
....................................40 B2
Art Hotel G ........................25 C3 Dongbu Market ............41 C3
Good Morning Motel
Hanbok Shops ...............42 B4
....................................26 C2
Nambu Market
Hotel Hansung G ............27 C3
......................................(see 20)
Jeonju Core Riviera Hotel
Ntepia ..............................43 C3
................ 28 D3
Jeonju Tourist Hotel
................................29 B3 TRANSPORT
Express Bus Terminal
Jeonju Traditional Life
...........................44 C2
Experience Park
.................30 C3 Intercity Bus Terminal
Seunggwangje ..................31 C4
.......................... 45 D2
Sydney Motel G ......... 32 D2 Local Bus Stop ......... (see 2)

Gyeonggijeon (; %281 2790; Taejo-ro; admission free; h9am-6pm) was originally constructed
in 1410, reconstructed in 1614 and contains
a portrait of Yi Seong-gye, the founder of the
Joseon dynasty (13921910), whose family
came from Jeonju. Portraits of six other Joseon
monarchs, and palanquins, are also on display. On the left are shrines, storehouses and
guardrooms relating to the Confucian rituals
once held here. Treating ancestors with utmost
respect was a cornerstone of the Confucian
philosophy that ruled Korea for centuries.
The red-brick Jeondong Catholic Church (
; %284 322; Taejo-ro; admission free) was built by
French missionary Xavier Baudounet on the
spot where Korean Catholics were executed in
1781 and 1801. Built between 1908 and 1914,
the architecture is a fusion of Asian, Byzantine
and Romanesque styles. The stained-glass
windows portray early martyrs.
On a hill overlooking the entire village is
Omokdae (), a pavilion where General Yi
Seong-gye celebrated a victory over Japanese
pirates in 1380, prior to his overthrow of the
Goryeo dynasty. Cross the bridge to Imokdae
(), a monument to one of Yi Seonggyes ancestors written by King Gojong.
The Oriental Medicine Culture Centre (
; %232 2500; www.hanbangcenter.com; admis-

sion free; h10am-6pm) offers medical tests and

diagnosis (W1000 to W4000) and recommends

herbal, acupuncture, moxibustion and massage
therapies, but language can be a problem.
Housed in a beautiful old hanok, the
Traditional Wine Museum (; %287
6305; admission free; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun) has a gosori
(traditional still). You can learn how to make
your own soju (Korean vodka) and, of course,
taste and buy traditional Korean liquors.
See sheets of hanji (handmade paper)
being manufactured in the Jeonju Korean Paper
Institute (; %232 6591; admission
free; h9am-5pm), housed in a gloriously atmospheric hanok down an alley. A slop of fibres
in a big tank magically solidifies into paper.
Purchase handmade paper products at the
giftshop.
The tiny but fascinating Kkotsuki Gongbang
(; Taejo-ro; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat) is a
workshop where lessons are available in the art
of making traditional Korean paper dolls.
Run by a third-generation Jeonju fan maker,
the Folding Fan Museum ( (
); %232 2008; 67 Eunhaeng-ro; admission
free; h9am-9pm) has the tools of the fan-makers
father on display along with antique fans. It
takes 12 hours to complete one fan and the
designs are burnt on by hand.

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Housing the artwork and art collection of a

well-known 20th-century calligrapher, Song
Sung-yong (pen name, Gangam), is Gangam
Calligraphy Museum (; %285 7442;
admission free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun).
Stroll around Jeonju Hyanggyo (;
%288 4548; admission free; h10am-7pm), a wellpreserved and very atmospheric Confucian
shrine, school and dormitory complex dating
to 1603 (see right).
The Craft Treasures Centre (;
%285 4403; Taejo-ro; admission free; h10am-7pm) is a
large complex of shops selling lanterns, boxes,
ties, clothing and paper products. The courtyard is pleasant for a rest.
Just past the Traditional Culture Centre, go
under the bridge to Hanbyeokdang Pavilion (
) on rocks overlooking the river, where
herons, egrets and swallows can be seen in
summer.
PUNGNAM-MUN

JEONJU GAEKSA

This rebuilt former government office is a

downtown landmark that lends its name to
the surrounding Gaeksa District, Jeonjus
primary shopping and nightlife area.
DEOKJIN PARK

Join Korean couples who hire paddleboats

in this charming park (%281 2436; admission free;
h5am-11pm), in the north of the city, to view
the lotus lilies in July.
JUNGNIM ONCHEON

Soak and steam all night and day in Jeonjus

best hot-spring spa (%232 8832; admission W5000-7000;
h24hr). A free shuttle bus (9.35am, 11.35am,
2.35pm and 4.35pm) leaves from outside the
Jeonju Core Riviera Hotel (p310).

Festivals & Events

The Jeonju International Film Festival (www.jiff.or.kr) is
a nine-day event every April/May that focuses
mainly on indie, digital and experimental movies. Around 200 films from 40 countries are
shown in the Primus cinema multiplex and
others nearby, many in English or subtitled.

Sleeping
Budget and midrange hotels are located in
the Gaeksa District; cheaper love motels
surround the bus and train stations. For a
truly unique experience, stay in a traditional
hanok.
BUDGET

Good Morning Motel (; %251 9948; r

W30,000; ai) This big, blue, no-fuss motel
has helpful staff and spacious rooms with
modern, clean bathrooms. Rooms vary so
look at more than one some have round,
heated waterbeds; rooms with computers are
W5000 extra.
Sydney Motel ( ; %255 3311; r W30,000;
ai) Located directly behind the intercity bus terminal, this salmon-pink, clean
love motel is nicer and less sleazy than its
neighbours.
MIDRANGE

Hotel Hansung ( ; %288 0014; Gaeksa;

s/d W40,000/50,000; ai) This recently renovated hotel in the heart of the Gaeksa District
offers Western and ondol-style rooms with
TV, fridge and comfy robes. Its sparkling
clean, modern and staff speak English.
Rooms facing the main drag can be noisy
on weekends.
Art Hotel (; %231 3807; Gaeksa; r W40,00050,000; ai) Just east of the main pedestrian
road in Gaeksa, this modern boutiquestyle hotel is newer and posher than
Hotel Hansung, but not quite as warm or
foreigner-friendly.
HYANGGYO & SEOWON
Hyanggyo were neighbourhood schools
established by yangban (aristocrats) in the
1500s to prepare their sons for the seowon
(Confucian academies), where the students took the all-important government
service exams. The pupils studied Chinese
characters and key Confucian texts. Over
600 seowon were spread across the country, making Korea more Confucian than
China. In the 1860s Regent Heungseon
Daewongun forced most of them to close
as he reasserted the kings authority, but
the buildings remain as symbols of Koreans
unwavering passion for education.

JEOLLABUK-DO

An impressive stone-and-wood gateway is all

that remains of Jeonjus fortress wall and four
gateways. First built in 1398 but renovated
many times since, it marks the beginning
of the sprawling Nambu Market (),
where farmers wives sell fresh produce.

J E O L L A B U K- D O J e o n j u 309

310 J E O L L A B U K- D O J e o n j u
oSeunggwangje (; %288 4566;
r from W60,000) Live like a king at Jeonjus best

Daho Teahouse (; teas W4000; h11ammidnight) The best of the hanok teahouses is

hanok. The small rooms have TV, fridge,

yo (padded quilt or mattress on the floor)
and tiny, modern en-suite bathroom.
Seunggwangje is owned by English-speaking Lee Seok, a grandson of King Gojong,
who lives in the adjoining hanok. Its a special
place down an alley with royal photographs
on display. Breakfast is W5000.
Jeonju Traditional Life Experience Park (
; %287 6300; www.jjhanok.com; r
W60,000-120,000) Stay in tiny bare rooms and sleep
on a yo in this newly built but traditional-style
hanok. Prices include a Korean-style breakfast
and free loan of a bicycle.
Jeonju Tourist Hotel (; %280
7700; r/ste W60,000/80,000; i) This reasonably
priced tourist hotel has a retro feel and the
central location is close to Jeonjus main entertainment and shopping area.

down an alleyway and has rustic, goblinsized rooms overlooking an attractive

garden where birds flit around. Listen to
ethereal music as you sip the excellent teas
such as daechucha (; red date) and
pink omijacha (; dried five-flavour
berries).
Jeonju-hyang (; %284 2588; mains W12,00020,000; h11am-10pm) Located in an old hanok,
the popular Jeonju-hyang is regularly rated as
one of the citys best traditional restaurants,
offering huge set meals that can feed a small
army.
Traditional Culture Centre (;
%280 7000; meals W9000-30,000; h10am-9pm) A
stylish, upmarket restaurant in a modernist
building offers Jeonju bibimbap, galbi jeongsik
(; ribs and side dishes) or a full-on
hanjeongsik (; banquet). Next door is a
teashop and a hall that hosts traditional music
and dance shows.
oDeepin (%231 9695; Gaeksa; h7pm-4am)
A foreigner-friendly watering hole, this tiny,
dark and smoky bar is the local expat hang-out
with comfy red couches, Polaroids and chalk
messages on the walls, cool music and cheap
beer. From the Jeonju Gaeksa, cross the main
road, turn right, make an immediate left and
go to the end of the street; Deepin is on the left,
just passed the bricked Wedding St.

TOP END

JEOLLABUK-DO

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Jeonju Core Riviera Hotel (;

%232 7000; core-riviera.co.kr; r/ste from W140,000/280,000;
ai) Ask for a room overlooking the hanok
district in Jeonjus best hotel, which has spacious rooms and suites that feature natural
wood decor, glass showers and a computer.
Live music livens up the Windsor Bar (beers/
cocktails W5000/6600; open 6pm to 2am) at
10pm. There are also restaurants, a fitness
club and a sauna.

Eating & Drinking

For traditional fare, head to the restaurants
and teahouses of Hanok Maeul. Modern restaurants, bars and Western fast-food chains
are located in the Gaeksa District, Jeonjus
prime nightlife spot.
Gimbap Maeul (; meals W2000-4000;
h10am-9pm) A small, clean eatery that offers
budget meals such as gimbap (; sesameoil flavoured rice wrapped in seaweed) that
includes cheese, tuna and salad.
The Star (83 Gyeonggijeon-gil; drinks W2300-3500;
h8am-late) Need a caffeine jolt? This lovely
little coffeehouse offers coffees, espresso
drinks and tea.
Sambaekjip (; meals W3500; h24hr) This
restaurant specialises in kongnamul gukbap
(), a local Jeonju dish of rice, egg,
bean sprout and seasoning cooked in a stone
pot. Its said to be a hangover cure and comes
with side dishes.

Shopping
Hanbok shops are at the far end of Jungangno,
while the bustling Dongbu and Nambu
Markets sell everything under the sun. Ntepia
(; h11am-11pm) is a large fashion
store in the youthful Gaeksa District, surrounded by beauty shops and Western restaurants such as Outback Steakhouse and
Pizza Hut. Lotte (h10.30am-8pm) and Core
(h10.30am-8pm) department stores are modern shopping malls.

Getting There & Away

BUS

Destinations from the express bus terminal

include the following:
Destination

Price (W)

Duration

Frequency

Daegu
Daejeon
Gwangju
Seoul

11,000
4600
5800
11,000

3hr
1hr
1hr
3hr

hrly
hrly
every 30min
every 10min

lonelyplanet.com

J E O L L A B U K- D O G e u m s a n - s a & M o a k s a n P r o v i n c i a l Pa r k 311

Departures from the intercity bus terminal

include the following:
Destination

Price (W)

Duration Frequency

Buan
Daedunsan
Gochang
Gunsan
Gurye (Jirisan)
Gyeokpo
Jeongeup
Jinan
Muju
Naesosa

4000
5000
5400
4200
7700
6600
3200
3600
7500
6200

1hr
1hr
1hr
1hr
2hr
2hr
1hr
50min
1hr
2hr

5 daily
8 daily
hrly
every 15min
hrly
hrly
every 15min
every 30min
hrly
1 daily

TRAIN

There are KTX (Korea Train Express;

W29,600, 2 hours, 19 daily), Saemaul (express; W25,400, three hours, four daily) and
Mugunghwa (semi-express; W17,000, 3
hours, 14 daily) trains to/from Yongsan station
in Seoul; KTX trains involve a change at Iksan.
Trains also run south to Jeollanam-do.
Numerous buses (W850) run from near the
bus terminals to downtown, while buses 105,
509 and others run to the train station. Taxis
are plentiful and cheap.

GEUMSAN-SA & MOAKSAN

PROVINCIAL PARK
,
This park (%548 1734; adult/youth/child W2600/1700/1000;
h8am-7pm), which contains Moaksan mountain
(794m), is only 40 minutes from Jeonju and is
a popular destination for hikers at weekends.
The main attraction is Geumsan-sa, a temple
that dates back to AD 599. To stay in the temple (W40,000 including meals), contact the
information office (%548 1330; h9am-6pm, closed 2
weekdays a week). The Maitreya Hall is a three-storey
wooden structure built in 1635 that retains an
air of antiquity. Inside is an impressive Mireuksa Buddha, the Buddha of the Future.
On the left is a museum and a hall with
carvings of 500 unique Buddha helpers. Near
the entrance, sip soothing tea in the serene,
Zen-style atmosphere of Sanjang Dawon (teas
W6000). Between 10 and 20 monks live here.
The usual climbing route up Moaksan goes
past the temple, up Janggundae and along the
ridge up to the peak. The hike is relatively
easy and you can be up and down in three
hours.

DAEDUNSAN PROVINCIAL PARK

Yet another of Koreas beautiful parks,

Daedunsan ( % 263 9949; adult/youth/child
W1300/850/450; h8am-6pm) offers craggy peaks
with spectacular views over the surrounding
countryside. Although relatively small, its one
of Koreas most scenic mountain areas.
Aside from the superb views, the climb
to the summit of Daedunsan (878m) along
steep, stony tracks is an adventure in itself,
as you cross over a 50m-long cable bridge
stretched precariously between two rock
pinnacles and then climb up a steep and
long steel-cable stairway. Vertigo sufferers
are advised to take the alternative route!
Otherwise, a five-minute cable-car ride (one
way/return W3000/6000) saves you an hour of uphill hiking.
Daedun-san Tourist Hotel (%263 1260; fax 263 8069;
r W65,000; ai) has an oncheon (hot spring
bath) and a sauna (W3000), perfect for soaking aching hiking muscles. Relax further,
playing pool or four-ball in the bar (open
1pm to midnight) or sitting in an armchair
with a view.
Many restaurants serve sanchae bibimbap
(; rice, egg, meat and mountain
vegies) and the usual country-style food.
Daedunsan can be reached by bus from
Jeonju (W5000, 70 minutes, six daily) or from
Seodaejeon bus terminal in Daejeon (W2500,
40 minutes, six daily).

MAISAN PROVINCIAL PARK

This is a must-see park (%433 3313; adult/youth/

child W2000/1500/900; h sunrise-sunset). Maisan
means Horse Ears Mountain, which refers
to two extraordinary rocky peaks as they appear from the access town of Jinan. The east
peak, Sutmaisan (Male Maisan), is 678m while

JEOLLABUK-DO

Getting Around

Overlooking the car park on the left is

Hwarim Hoegwan (; meals W5000-20,000),
a restaurant where you can sit inside or outside
under the wisteria. Choose between local black
pig, tokkitang (; spicy rabbit soup) or
roast ori (; duck).
Geumsan-sa and Moaksan are easily
reached by bus from Jeonju. Local bus 79
(W1500, 45 minutes, every 15 minutes) can be
picked up along Girin-ro, Jeonjus main street.
Dont get on buses that go to the other end of
Moaksan park; ask for Geumsan-sa.

JEOLLABUK-DO

312 J E O L L A B U K- D O D e o g y u s a n N a t i o n a l Pa r k & M u j u S k i R e s o r t

the west peak, Ammaisan (Female Maisan), is

slightly taller at 685m. Both ears are made of
conglomerate rock, which is rare in Korea.
Only Ammaisan can be scaled. Its a steep
half-hour climb, but grinning grandmas make
it to the top without any problem.
Tap-sa (Pagoda Temple), at the base of the
female ear, has a unique sculptural garden
of 80 stone towers or pinnacles that were
piled up by a Buddhist mystic, Yi Kapmyong
(18601957). Up to 15m in height, they represent religious ideas about the universe and
miraculously never seem to crumble, although
no cement has been used. The diverse stone
towers are an intriguing sight, evoking the
atmosphere of a lost world.
Nearby is Unsu-sa, a temple with a Dangun
shrine, a centuries-old pear tree and attractive gardens, and you can even bang the big
drum.
An easy 1-hour, 1.7km hike with a splendid view at the top and ever-changing views
of Ammaisan starts by Tap-sa and takes you
back to the car park at the entrance. In April
the cherry trees around the nearby lake burst
into blossom.

Frequent buses (W3600, 50 minutes, every

30 minutes) run along the scenic route from
Jeonju to the small town of Jinan. From Jinan,
buses (W1000, five minutes, every 40 minutes) run to the park entrance.

DEOGYUSAN NATIONAL PARK & MUJU

SKI RESORT
,
A fabulous mountain resort in the northeast
corner of Jeollabuk-do, Deogyusan National Park
(%322 3174; http://deogyu.knps.or.kr/eng; adult/youth/child
W3200/1200/600; hsunrise-sunset) is a year-round

playground offering skiing, hiking, biking

and golf.
The park is best known as the home of
Muju Ski Resort (%322 9000; www.mujuresort.com).
Opened in 1990, Muju is the only Korean
ski resort located in a national park, with 30
runs including the highest altitude and longest
slope (6.1km) in the country. Snowboarding,
sledding, night and mogul skiing and lessons
in English are on offer. The ski season runs
mid-December to April.
When the snow melts, lace up your hiking boots and explore the park on foot. The

DEOGYUSAN NATIONAL PARK

To
Muju
(5km)

lonelyplanet.com

0
0

4 km
2 miles

Jeolsan
(481m)
Bungmun
(North Gate)
Lookout
Seomun
(West Gate)
1
4

Nammun
(South Gate)

Jeoksangsan
(1029m)

37

Geochilbong
(1177m)

Jimok
Village

2
10

727

19

9
3
6
5

Deogyudae
Camping Gucheon-dong
Ground
Wolhatan
Pavilion

Seolcheonbong Spring
(1520m)
Gucheon-dong
Valley

Chilbong
(1305m)
Hyangjeokbong/
Deogyusan
(1614m)

Gucheon
Rapids
Yeonhwa
Rapids

2
Hyangjeokbong
Shelter
Jeungbong (1594m)

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Anguk-sa ..................................................1
Baengnyeon-sa .....................................2
Gondola..................................................................... 3
Jeoksang Sanseong ..............................................4
Muju Ski Resort ........................... 5

A2
B3
B3
A1
B3

SLEEPING
Tirol Hotel ..........................................6 B3
Tourist Village .............................................7 B2
TRANSPORT
Bus Stop ........................................8 A1
Bus Stop ........................................9 B2
Bus Stop ..................................... 10 B2

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Sleeping & Eating

The resort has top-notch dining, drinking
and sleeping options in all price ranges; the
best place to stay in the park is Tirol Hotel (
; %320 7617; www.mujuresort.com; winter/summer r from W380,000/115,000; ai), a wonderful
Austrian-styled chalet. Cheaper minbak accommodation (private homes with rooms
for rent) is located in the tourist village near
the park entrance. For the best deals here,
buy a package that includes accommodation, ski and equipment hire, transport and
lift tickets.

Getting There & Away

The nondescript town of Muju is the gateway to Deogyusan National Park and Muju
Ski Resort. Muju is connected by bus to
Daejeon (W6500, one hour, every 40 minutes),
Geumsan (W2800, one hour, hourly), Jeonju
(W11,000, 1 hours, hourly), Seoul (W13,700,
three hours, six daily) and other cities.
From Muju, take the Gucheon-dong bus
(W3300, 30 minutes, 10 daily), which drops

you off near the tourist village. Alternatively

from Muju, take the Muju Resort Shuttle Bus
(free, one hour, six daily, more frequently
during ski season).

NAMWON
Nicknamed the City of Love, Namwon is
famous throughout Korea as the setting of
Chunhyang-jeon, a pansori folk tale akin
to Romeo and Juliet. The story follows the
forbidden courtship and marriage between
a young commoner girl named Chunhyang
(Spring Fragrance) and a noblemans son, Yi
Mongryong. Yi must later save his love from
the clutches of an evil politician, and they live
happily ever after.
The citys crown jewel is Gwanghallu-won
Garden (adult/child W2000/1100; h8am-8pm), one of
the most beautiful gardens in southwest Korea
and a shrine to the Chunhyang-jeon story.
At the heart of the garden is Gwanghallu
Pavilion (Palace of the Moon), originally built
in 1419 and the legendary spot where Yi
courted his beloved Chunhyang. The pavilion is fronted by a lovely reflecting pond with
three tiny islands and criss-crossed by the
stone Ojak-gyo (Magpie Bridge); it is said that
couples who cross the bridge once a year will
have a happy marriage.
West of the pavilion, the Chunhyang
Memorial Hall visually retells the story
through paintings. The Chunyang Shrine
contains a portrait of the beautiful heroine;
another legend claims singles will find love
if they pray here.
Across the road from the park entrance,
take the ornate footbridge over the Yocheon
River to reach the Namwon Tourist Complex
of restaurants, shops, hotels, Namwon Land
amusement park, the Chunhyuang Theme Park
and Folk Museum (%620 6836; adult/child W3000/2000;
h9am-10pm) and the National Centre for Korean
Folk Traditional Performing Arts (%620 2331;
admission free; h9am-5pm) with its fine collection of musical instruments and regular live
performances.
Trains serve Jeonju (W5000, 35 minutes, 16 daily), Seoul (W20,400 to W30,300;
three hours, 40 minutes; 16 daily) and Yeosu
(W6700 to W9800, 100 minutes, 17 daily).
Buses serve Jeonju (W6000, 45 minutes, every
15 minutes), Gwangju (W4800, one hour,
every 30 minutes), Banseon (W4400, one
hour, 18 daily) and Seoul (W14,000, four
hours, 17 daily).

JEOLLABUK-DO

tourist village at Gucheon-dong is the start of

the parks best hike (1 hours, 6km) that follows the river and valley past 20 beauty spots
to a small temple, Baengnyeon-sa ().
Fairies are said to slide down rainbows to
bathe in the pools. The enchanting trail continues to a strenuous, steep, 1-hour ascent
of Hyangjeokbong (1614m). Yew trees, azaleas
and alpine flowers adorn the summit.
In the northwest of the park is Jeoksang
Sanseong, a fortress rebuilt in the 17th century.
Encircled by the 8km wall are the ruins of a
Joseon-dynasty archive, a reservoir and Anguksa (), a temple built in the 1860s. Buses
only run along the main road to Gucheondong, so you must get off at the access road
and walk (4km) or hitchhike.
Although winter is the high season, a few
shops, restaurants, bars and attractions are
open year-round, including the gondola (adult/
child return W10,000/7000; h10am-4pm) to the peak of
Seolcheonbong (1520m). Mountain bikes (adult/child
per hr W10,000/8000; h9am-7pm) can be hired to
ride round a special track.
Muju is home to the Muju Firefly Festival
(http://firefly.or.kr), an environmental awareness
event held in mid-June. Taekwondo Park (www.
worldtaekwondopia.org/eng/park/park01.asp), a theme
park devoted to Koreas national sport, is set
to open in 2013.

J E O L L A B U K- D O N a m w o n 313

314 J E O L L A B U K- D O N a e j a n g s a n N a t i o n a l Pa r k

NAEJANGSAN NATIONAL PARK

The mountainous ridge in this park (%538

7875; http://naejang.knps.or.kr/eng; adult/youth/child
W3200/1300/700; hsunrise-sunset) is shaped like

an amphitheatre. A spiders web of trails

leads up to the ridge, but the fastest way
up is by cable car (adult/child one way W4000/2000,
return W5500/3000). The hike around the rim is
strenuous, but with splendid views on a fine
day. The trail is a roller-coaster ride, going
up and down six main peaks and numerous
small ones before you reach Seoraebong,
from where you head back down to the access road.
There are metal ladders, bridges and railings to help you scramble over the rocky parts.
Give yourself four hours to hike around the
amphitheatre, with an hour for breaks and a
picnic. If you find the hike too difficult, turn
right at any time and follow one of the many
trails back down to Naejang-sa.
An easy and picturesque 2km walk from
Naejang-sa goes through Geumsong valley,
which becomes a steep ravine before leading
to a cave, a natural rock arch and a waterfall.

lonelyplanet.com

A tourist village clusters around the entrance, but its not usually busy except in
October. Camping (small/large tent W3000/6000) is
available before the tourist village. A shuttle
bus (W1000; 9am to 6pm) runs between the
ticket office and the cable-car terminal, saving
a 2km, 20-minute walk.
The tourist information centre (%537 1330) has
free internet access. Across the road is a bicycle
INFORMATION
Tourist Information Centre ........................1 D2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Bicycle Hire .................................................2 D2
Cable Car................................................................................... 3 C2
Naejang-sa ................................................................ 4 B2
Park Entrance ......................................................5 D2
SLEEPING
Camping ....................................................................6 D1

JEOLLABUK-DO

EATING
Restaurants ...............................................................7 D2

TRANSPORT
Bus Stop ...........................................................8 D2
Shuttle Bus Stop ...................................9 D2

0
0

NAEJANGSAN NATIONAL PARK

A

1 km
0.5 miles

Lake

To Jeongeup
(9km)

792

Bulchulbong
(610m)

Seorae
Spring

Manghaebong
(650m)

Seoraebong
(622m)

Wonjeogam

Spring

Tourist
Village

Konaejangam

Yeonjibong
(670m)

Wonjeok
Valley

Wolryeongbong
(406m)

Spring

Geumsong
Valley

Jeonmangdae

Gachibong
(717m)

Yonggul

ar

le C

Cab

Geumseon
Pokpo

To Ibamsanseong
(3km)

Sinseonbong
(763m)

To Baegyang-sa (3km)

Sinseon
Spring

Yeonjabong
(675m)

Janggunbong
(696m)

792

To Baegyang-sa (3km)

To Sunchang (35km)

lonelyplanet.com

hire stall (%011-9449 4383; per hr W3000; h9am-6pm).

Cycle up to the temple or around the nearby
farms and villages.
Buses (W3000, one hour, every 15 minutes)
run from Jeonju to Jeongeup. From just outside the bus terminal on the left, local bus 171
(W1000, 30 minutes, every 20 minutes) runs
to Naejangsan.

GOCHANG

J E O L L A B U K- D O G o c h a n g 315

SEONUNSAN PROVINCIAL PARK

0
0

Maijae

been popular with monks and poets alike.

A 20-minute walk along a rocky, tree-lined
river brings you to Seonun-sa. Just behind the
temple is a 500-year-old camellia forest that
flowers around the end of April, although a
few blooms linger into summer.
Another 35 minutes further on is Dosol-am
hermitage and just beyond is a giant Buddha
rock carving dating to the Goryeo dynasty; the
amazing image is carved into the cliff face and
is 13m high. Despite centuries of erosion the
Buddha is still an impressive sight, a testament
to the faith of ancient times. On the right is a
very narrow grotto, and next to it stairs lead
up to a tiny shrine and a great view. From the
Buddha, you can climb Nakjodae and carry
on to Gaeippalsan and Seonunsan, with views
of the West Sea, before heading back down
to Seonun-sa.

Seoksangam

Seonunsan
(336m)

Gaeippalsan
(345m)

Guhwangbong
Mirror
(298m)
Pond
Ingyeongbong
(265m)

JEOLLABUK-DO

This pretty park (%563 3450; adult/youth/child

W2500/1800/1300; h sunrise-sunset) has always

To Jeongeup
(30km)
7

Minbak
Village

2710; admission W1000; h9am-7pm Mar-Oct, 9am-5pm

Nov-Feb) is an impressive structure built in 1453

SEONUNSAN PROVINCIAL PARK

Gyeongsusan
(443m)

Perched on a hill overlooking the small village

of Gochang, Moyang Fortress (, %560

during the Joseon dynasty. The ivy-covered,

1.6km-long fortress wall with three gates surrounds a complex of reconstructed buildings
including a prison and pavilion. A local legend
says if a woman walks three times around the
wall with a stone on her head in a leap year,
she will never become ill and will enter paradise. To the right of the fortress is the Pansori
Museum (%560 2761; adult/youth/child W800/500/free;
h9am-6pm Tue-Sun), with memorabilia on this
unique solo opera musical form. The hills surrounding Gochang are filled with thousands
of dolmen, prehistoric tombs from the Bronze
and Iron Ages.
Buses serve Gochang from Jeonju (W5400,
80 minutes, every 30 minutes) and Gwanju
(W4300, one hour, every 30 minutes).

1 km
0.5 miles

Yongmungul
2
Dosol-am
hermitage
Lookout

Nakjodae

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Garden ............................................................................ 1
Giant Buddha Rock Carving ........................... 2
Seonun-sa ................................................................. 3
Ticket Office .............................................................. 4

B3
A3
B2
B2

SLEEPING
Seonunsan Tourist Hotel
GG........................................................... (see 5)
Seonunsan Youth Hostel .............. 5 B2

EATING
Food Stalls .................................................. 6 B2
Restaurants ............................................................... 7 B2
TRANSPORT
Bus Stop ........................................................... 8 B2

The small tourist village near the park entrance has a handful of lodgings, restaurants
and shops. The clean but dated Seonunsan
Tourist Hotel (; %561 3377; r
W60,000-100,000) has Western and ondol-style
rooms. The basic Seonunsan Youth Hostel (
; % 561 3333; fax 561 3448; r
W60,000) is cheaper but does fill up fast on
weekends.

316 J E O L L A B U K- D O B y e o n s a n B a n d o N a t i o n a l Pa r k

Buses (W4000, 1 hours, every 30 minutes) run from Jeonju to Gochang, from where
buses (W2000, 20 minutes, hourly) run to
Seonunsan.

spot is Seonyeotang (, Angel Pool).

From there walk along the unpaved access
road past the ruins of Silsang-sa (
), destroyed during the Korean War. You
may need to hitch a lift as buses are infrequent. For a more challenging hike head
up Nakjodae, which is famous for its sunset
views.
Beaches along the coast attract crowds in
summer. Byeonsan Beach is a wide beach of fine
sand, clear water and backed by pine trees.
Further south, Gyeokpo Beach has dramatic
stratified cliffs and caves as well as seafood
restaurants. The beach is safe for swimming
but the sea disappears at low tide. Gyeokpo
is also the starting point for ferries to the island of Wi-do, which has a sandy beach; every
house in the little fishing village of Jinli is a
minbak-cum-restaurant.
Only one direct bus (W6000, two hours)
runs from Jeonju to Naeso-sa. Otherwise take
a bus from Jeonju to Buan (W4000, one hour,
five daily) and then a local bus to Naeso-sa
(W2000, one hour, every 30 minutes). Buses
(W6400, two hours, hourly) also run from
Jeonju to Gyeokpo.

BYEONSAN BANDO NATIONAL PARK

This coastal park (%582 7808; http://byeonsan.knps.

or.kr/eng; adult/youth/child W3200/1300/700; hsunrisesunset) contains the large temple of Naeso-sa

JEOLLABUK-DO

lonelyplanet.com

(), originally built in 633 and last

renovated in the 19th century. It certainly
looks old, with lots of unpainted wood. Take
a close look at the main hall, especially the
lattice doors, the painting behind the Buddha
statues, and the intricately carved and painted
ceiling with musical instruments, flowers and
dragons among the motifs.
Hike up the unpaved road to Cheongnyeonam
(; 20 minutes) for sea views; another
15 minutes brings you to the ridge where
you turn left for Gwaneumbong. From the
peak follow the path, which goes up and
down and over rocks for an hour until you
reach Jikso Pokpo (), a 30m-high
waterfall with a large pool. Another pretty

0
0

BYEONSAN BANDO NATIONAL PARK

A

To Byeonsan
Beach (3km);
Gyeokpo
Beach (12km)

Namyeoji

736

D
Buanho

1
Unsan-ri

Ssangseonbong
(459m)
5

Nakjodae
(448m)
Seoninbong

2 km
1 mile

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Cheongnyeonam ..............1
Jikso Pokpo .................... 2
Naeso-sa ...............................3
Seonyeotang ...................... 4
Silsang-sa Ruins ............ 5

TRANSPORT
Bus Stop .....................6 D3
Bus Stop ..................... 7 C1

Mangpodae
(492m)
Bongnae
Valley

2
1

Gwaneumbong

Sinseonbong
(486m)

D2
C2
D3
C2
C1

3
6

lonelyplanet.com

Ferries (%581 0023) go from Gyeokpo to

Wi-do (W6500 one way, 40 minutes, three
daily September to June, six daily July and
August).

SEONYU-DO
A 43km ferry trip from the industrial port
city of Gunsan brings you to the relaxing
tropical island of Seonyu-do, situated amid
60 mostly uninhabited small islands. When
the tide is in and the sun is out, the views
from here are unbelievably beautiful. These
days there are more bicycle-hire stalls than
fishing boats; you can hire bicycles (W3000
per hour) or a quad bike (W20,000 per hour)
to pedal or zip around the laid-back fishing villages on Seonyu-do and the three
islands that are linked to it by bridges. Sixperson bungbungka (auto rickshaws; per
hour W30,000) take pensioner parties on
fun tours.

Lonely Planet
J E O L L A B U K- D O S e o n y u - d o 317

The main attraction is the 1.6km beach, a

10-minute walk from the ferry pier, on a spit
of soft, golden sand with great island views
on both sides. At the far end the adventurous
should climb up rocky Mangjubong. Take the
right turn towards Saeteo village and on your
left are tracks leading through the grass up to
some ropes that are fixed to the rock, which
you can use to haul yourself up to a wooded
gully. The view from the top is a wonderful
panorama of islands.
Youll find plenty of inexpensive restaurants
and minbak in the main fishing village, a 10minute walk from the jetty near the beach.
Buses (W4500, one hour, every 15 minutes)
leave from Jeonju for Gunsan. Ferries (adult/
child one way W12,800/6400, 1 hours, five
daily) leave from the new Yeonan Yeogaek (Gunsan
Coastal Ferry Terminal; ; %467 6000),
a 15-minute, W7500 taxi ride from Gunsan
bus terminal.

JEOLLABUK-DO

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