National Institute of Fashion Technology New Delhi, (Ministry of Textiles) (In the Partial Fulfilment of the requirement for the award of Degree)
Master of Fashion Technology
Sponsored By
PEARL GLOBAL LTD
Submitted by :
Kapil Kumar
M.F. TECH III
DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TEHNOLOGY NEW DELHI
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Through this project report I would like to thank numerous people whose consistent support and guidance has been the standing pillar in architecture of this project. To begin with, my sincere thanks to the management of NIFT for giving this opportunity to experience and learn the processes practiced in Apparel Industry.
For the completion of this document I would like to thank Mr. Sunil Motwani (Associate Professor, department of Fashion Technology, NIFT) for being my mentor and my guide throughout the project. I would like to express my sincere thanks to the Management and staff of PEARL GLOBAL LTD, Gurgaon for their outstanding Support and cooperation in my efforts to gain knowledge about the practical aspects of Apparel industries during the Internship.
I am thankful to Mr. Pradeep Yadav (Sr. Production manager), Mr. Abhinaov Dhain(), Mr. Dharmender Sharma (Sr. HR manager) for the guidance and planning out the schedule for the internship.
I would like to grab this opportunity to express my sincere gratitude to Ms. Saumya sharma (Merchandiser),Ms. Ruchi sardana (Merchandiser), Mr. Santosh for guiding me through all the processes involved in the processing of the fabric and was patient enough to answer all my doubts and queries. I would specially like to thank all the staff members and workers for helping me throughout the internship. Without their support, it would have been difficult job to successfully complete the training.
Kapil Kumar
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Declaration
I hereby declare that the work presented in the project report submitted to the Department of Fashion Technology for the partial fulfillment of the requirement for the award of Degree of Master of fashion technology is an authentic record of my work carried out at PEARL GLOBAL LIMITED, GURGAON for a period of 12 weeks from 31 st may 2011 to 23 rd Aug 2011 as per my curriculum requirement..
The matter embodied in this project report has not been submitted elsewhere by anybody for the award of any degree.
Kapil Kumar(11) MFTech, 3 rd SEM, (2010-2011 batch) Nift, New Delhi. (verma.box@gmail.com)
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EXECUTIVE SUMMERY
In the past two decades, the Indian textile industry in terms of home textile, garments and accessories have a witnessed a complete transformation in terms of quality, market and product development as well as the expansion, In this scenario export house plays the major role in the growth and conduct of exports. Looking from this perspective pearl global is a very good and important organization in its work. Internship at pearl global limited has been a great exposure the practical application of my learning. I gained knowledge about actual work culture of the company and how to deal with the people at workplace. I did my internship in Production, IE, merchandising and sampling department; also I followed up production styles and collected data from different departments for wastage estimation in 3 different styles.
OBJECTIVE
Objective of the study is to learn about the functioning of export house and working of various departments particularly production, merchandising and sampling, earning knowledge about different departments of the company, their function and information flow during work and wastage happening in each department and suggestive measures to reduce them.
DATA COLLECTION METHOD
I collected this by following method- Personal interview from various departments Close observation during work internal data from various departments And secondary data was collected from the official websites and manuals of pearl global limited.
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TABLE OF CONTENT S.no. Topic PAGE NO.
1 i. Acknowledgement ii. Declaration iii. Executive summary Introduction 1.1 Brief history 1.2 Philosophy 1.3 Values and objective 1.4 Quality and excellence 1.5 Product mix 1.6 Production mix 1.7 Production capacity 1.8 Clients 1.9 Business divisions Design and development Manufacturing Sourcing Marketing Logistics and warehousing 1.10 Swot analysis(PGL)
1 1 2 2 3 3 3 3 3 4 5 5 5 6 6 7 8 9 9 9 2 DEPARTMENTS IN PEARL GLOBAL LIMITED 2.1 Designing department 10 10 6
2.2 Testing department 2.3 Trims department 2.4 Fabric sourcing department 2.5 Fabric storage department 2.6 Outsourcing department 2.7 Sampling department 2.8 Cad department 2.9 Production department Cutting and bundling department Sewing department Washing department Pressing department Finishing department Packing department 2.10 Inspections department 2.11 Human resource department 2.12 Marketing/merchandising department 10 11
13 17 21 21 25 25 26 26 27 27 28 28 29 30 31 3 PROJECT 3.1 waste minimization 3.1.1. objective 3.1.2. Research methodology 3.1.3. literature review 3.1.4. case study: fabric wastage estimation 3.1.5.case study: cutting loss analysis 3.1.6. case study: Lost time calculation 39 40 40 40 40 42 49 52 7
3.1.7 Maintenance department analysis. 3.1.8. production department analysis. 3.2. Rework Reduction 3.2.1. objective 3.2.2. research methodology 3.2.3. literature review 3.2.4. existing quality checkpoints 3.2.5. Defect analysis
1.1 BRIEF HISTORY:-Pearl Global was incorporated in 1979, business began in the 1980s, and its first manufacturing facility was establishes in 1989.In 1993 it was become a public limited company. The company structure of pearl global is extremely unique, as it includes all part of garment industry under the House of Pearl. A multinational ready to wear apparel business: They currently operate in 11 strategic locations & six continents, leveraging the strengths of each country in creating a strong value for their clients.
It offers full services to large retailers with the chain broken into the business unit that cater to different product lines. The House of Pearl includes designing and manufacturing units, marketing units in the U.S. and warehouse & distribution and the U.K. Its operation in Bangladesh(NorPearl and NorPlanet) focus on more simple sourcing and manufacturing while its offices in India focus on the sourcing and manufacturing of ethnic theyar (more production intensive complicated clothing). It also has business in Hong Kong and UK. The chairman of Pearl Global established a Fashion and Design academy Pearl Fashion Academy. The company entered into a business and education partnership with Babson college in US. He has actively involved with the development of readymade garment industry in India. He has successfully established and promoted the fashion apparel brandLerros in Europe.
Own brands in the USA: - They manage two brands Kool Hearts, DCC in the United States of America. The brand Kool Hearts focuses on the young fashion, where as the focus of DCC is more towards Missy segment.
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1.2. Organisation Structure Management team at PGL Name Designation Ashutosh P Bhupatkar Director Ashwani Palaha COO Deepak Seth Chairman / Chair Person Pankaj Bhasin Vice President Prakash Prusty Company Secretary Prakash Prusty Secretary Pulkit Seth CEO Pulkit Seth Managing Director Rajeev Anand Vice President Sanjay Jhangala VP (OPR) Production Sanjay Pershad Whole Time Director Vinay Arora VP (Marketing)
Organization chart of JC PENNY. Mr. Pulkit Seth (MD) Mr. Pankaj Bhasin (GM) Mr. Ashish Garg(AGM) Mr. Abhinaov Dhain (Senior merchandiser)
They strongly believe that growth and prosperity of their business depends on developing an integrated global community of motivated and innovative members. Provide adequate support to the employees to perform to their fullest potential by providing proper direction, arranging for training, supplying the necessary resources, maintaining a safe working environment and removing unnecessary barriers to performance. Enhance the skills of their employees, in light of the Groups markets and development goals drawing strength from the diverse cultures for career growth in India and abroad. Allow the employees with entrepreneurial spirit to achieve their dreams using the freedom and flexibility provided for organizational effectiveness by promoting teamwork between groups and work units strengthening the Groups identity and unity. Reward the employees for their contributions and respect their dignity and honesty. Look at our employees as our assets and partners in contributing to growth and in the ongoing process of improving the systems and procedures of the company.
1.4.VALUES AND OBJECTIVE House of Pearl believes that any business conduct can be ethical only when it rests on the nine core values of Honesty, Integrity, Fairness, Respect, Trust, Purposefulness, Responsibility, Citizenship and Caring. The essence of these commitments is that each employee conducts the Companys business with integrity, in compliance with applicable laws and in a manner that excludes considerations of personal advantage. They do not lose sight of these values under any circumstances, regardless of the goals they have to achieve. For them, the means are as important as the ends.
1.5. QUALITY AND EXCELLENCE
They care about, Quality and Excellence, Health, Safety and Environment, Human Resource Development, Energy Conservation, Corporate Citizenship. They have dedicated teams of Quality Assurance & Quality Control. 11
Industrial Engineering Cells. Compliance Teams. These Teams ensure that all their factories produce world class quality products across all the product categories. In addition their sourcing offices have in house testing labs to ensure international standards for fabric, yarn and garments.
1.6. PRODUCT MIX INDIA: Woven cotton and value-added cotton, ethnic wear including blouses, t-shirts, bottoms, skirts, children dresses. BANGLADESH: Low cost basic stuff, Wal Mart, Nor Pearl, Nor Planet Pearl Global has manufactured womens, childrens and mens shirts, vests, trousers, shorts, nightwear dresses suits and outerwear, stain sealed garment using Goerge etc.
1.7. PRODUCTION MIX:-
Pearl Global uses an assembly line system. They use assembly line system because they receive different type of value added order from different buyer, so assembly line system is helpful for handling of this type of orders, because every style has different number of operation, so the arrange assembly lines according to need of style. Sometime they use zigzag assembly line system. Style that comes in production is already approved by buyers through sampling.
1.8. PRODDUCTION CAPACITY:-
Pearl Global has 20 million pieces in-house capacity and 120 million pieces capacity all across Asia. Pearl global has approximately 3500 workers in unit 446.
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1.9. CLIENTS
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1.9. BUSINESS DIVISIONS
1.9.1. DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT In-house expertise for designing needs: Over 30 designers working across the group constantly providing latest design inputs on latest design trends internationally. Presentation of product ideas from across the globe gives the buyer a sense of cross-country styles of trends. Dedicated fabric development and sampling unit in China and India. Dedicated Design and Product Development facilities at each manufacturing location:- The Group has product development capabilities in all categories such as Woven, Knits, Sweaters, Bottoms which covers the entire range of products across all genders.
Creating a talent pool:- The promoters have also set up a premier fashion institute, Pearl Academy of Fashions in India with an objective to train professionals who will serve and eventually lead Indias fashion industry. The Company absorbs the best talent and also creates a pool for the garment industry globally.
1.9.2. MANUFACTURING They currently operate ten modern ready to wear apparel manufacturing facilities, of which seven are located in India, two in Bangladesh and one in Indonesia. This enables them to leverage relative strengths of each location and offer a wide range of product offerings to their clients. Multi country presence also helps in diversifying the risks attached to each country. Each factory specializes in a particular product range. The broad range of products that they offer includes :- Ladies tops, Dresses, T-shirts, Denims, Polos, Knits & Woven, Casual Pants and Sweaters etc. The present in-house manufacturing capacity of the company is thirty million pc. per annum spread over more than 725,000 sq feet of built up area with efficiently designed layouts to ensure smooth flow of materials. They are planning to double their capacity expanding their operations in Chennai, Bangladesh & Indonesia. They follow best practices in manufacturing, which ensures quality products are delivered on consistent basis. 14
Their units are approved by some of top retailers of the world; likes of The Gap, Inc., J.C Penney, Next, Liz Claiborne, Esprit. They follow ethical practices and full compliance to regulations prevailing in the country, they operate.
1.9.3. SOURCING Hong Kong is one of the biggest hubs for garment sourcing across the world. Their sourcing arm, Norwest Industries aims to leverage its presence in this region to maximize its business volumes and margins. To strengthen its sourcing capability credentials, over the years, Norwest set up sourcing offices Norwest Industries Ltd., Shanghai, China Norwest Industries Ltd., Bangalore, India Norwest Industries Ltd., New Delhi, India Norwest Industries Ltd., Dacca, Bangladesh Zamira Fashions Ltd., Hong Kong These offices specialize in products, merchandising and QA teams directly coordinating production with third party factories on a day to day basis to ensure quality and timely delivery of customer orders.
1.9.4. MARKETING Integrated marketing and merchandising teams in Canada, Europe, HK, UK, US and India closely interacting with existing and potential customers at their doorstep Designers are sharing ideas on an ongoing basis. The close interaction with customers gives them the vital edge. Distribution companies fully backed by strong sourcing and logistics facilities The group identified as a strategic vendor by major retailers Branded business in USA with brands DCC and Kool Hearts, DCC Women's focuses on Missy segment, Kool Hearts is targeting Young Fashion segment
1.9.5.LOGISTICS AND WAREHOUSING
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Warehousing, Logistics and distribution infrastructure in the UK and the US Services offered - Logistics and Transportation, Garment processing, Ironing and storage, Quality control and Reverse Logistics Capability to perform a range of pre retailing processes on garments which can be delivered ready to be placed on customer's store shelves Can handle up to 5M pieces of garments per month The warehouses are connected to the inventory management system of the customer that facilitate daily and weekly order pickings and ensures timely delivery.
1.10. SWOT ANALYSIS(PGL) Strengths: Effective management Wide sampling room Organised workforce Good inter and intradepartmental communication Good financial base of house of pearl International business presence Good infrastructure Centralised merchandising Weaknesses: High overtime cost High sampling cost Absence of dyeing and embroidery department Opportunities: International presence Low labour cost comparing to buying countries Incentives and support from government for export oriented units. Threats: Low cost by china High Competitive environment Increase in labour cost due to increment in minimum wages by Haryana government 16
2. DEPARTMENTS IN PEARL GLOBAL LIMITED
2.1. DESIGNING DEPARTMENT This department is basically involved in making the samples for fetching of orders. These samples are marketing promotion samples because these samples may not have any specific request from anyone but would be made from inputs from various sources like: Information about latest trends, inventions, in the field fashion, fabrics, accessories etc Styling according to season, gender, age group, category etc Past experiences from buyers selling patterns and market response etc Can be selected for production with modification Mainly to inspire them directing them to a new trend They make samples and show these samples in buyers meeting then buyer choose some sample according to their need with modification if required, and gives order for development samples.
2.2. TESTING DEPARTMENT Pearl Global has its own testing lab for some tests these are Fabric count and construction Color matching with the help of spectrometer PH testing Color fastness to washing Color fastness to crocking (rubbing) Appearance to washing Shrinkage testing GSM checking
2.3. TRIMS DEPARTMENT After confirmation of purchase order, Merchant gives the trim sheet to department manager Mr. Sachin for sourcing of trims. He gives the order to different suppliers and after getting Performa invoice, he decide for purchase order to particular supplier, sometime supplier are nominated by the buyers especially in terms of threads, zippers and labels. He gives order of required quantity +5%extra for wastage. 17
PROCESS FLOW CHART
LEAD TIME:- For button 12-15 days Lace 12-15 days Labels 7-10 days (Mostly Nominated supplier) REQUISITION FOR THE TRIMS COLLECT ORDER DETAILS ORDER CONFIRMATION
PERFORMA INVOICE
TRIMS BOOKING COUNTER SAMPLE APPROVAL ORDER IN BULK TRIMS IN HOUSE RECEIVING OF TRIM SHEET FROM MERCHANT (MATERIAL INDENT ) ) 18
Thread 7-10 days (Mostly Nominated supplier e.g. Vardhman and Pasupati) Zipper 7-10 days (Mostly Nominated supplier e.g. YKK) Elastic 12-15 days After receiving of goods store manager counts all material manually and then sends to production department. MATERIAL INDENT It is an internal document issued to Accessory Dept, for sourcing the required accessory and trims for the style.
2.4. FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT This department starts its work when the quality is approved from buyer side and the merchandiser feeds the initial information like purchase order, quantity, and size wise breakup. On the basis of this purchase order and various inputs like fabric requirement, shades, etc. the fabric sourcing department prepares a requisition for the fabric as per the demands of the buyer and raises it to the fabric vendors in the market. Sourcing department deals with getting information about material from different sources and then select the best material which suits their budget and buyers specification. The best deal and the vendor are finalized and the order is placed upon the following basis: Quality. Lead time/delivery Price Then the factory may send the yarn from store to the fabricators for fabric production, buy raw for dyeing or directly order the processed fabric to the vendors. Once the fabrics development receives the approval for the fabric, the vendor sends it in form of lots within the specified time period and the fabric is made in house in the fabric store. About 5% Extra goods are supplied by the vendor. Fabric sourcing means sourcing the right kind of fabric which fulfils the buyers specifications. Fabric sourcing dept is quite important as more than 90% of garment is fabric and approximately 70% cost of garment is due to fabric. Selecting the right quality of fabric as per the buyers specification is very important otherwise it may lead to cancellation or rejection of the whole order given by the buyer. The fabric sourcing 19
dept gets the sample from the vendors. These samples are tested before sending to buyer for approval. After the buyer approves the sample, the fabric is ordered for bulk production. On the time of delivery each consignment comes in with an invoice having details like quantity, colour, GSM, and weight. The goods are weighed and other details are reconfirmed before they are store. Documents used in sourcing dept: Quotation sheet FPO JPO Main responsibilities of this department include: Determination of the requirements. Decision on the process parameters. Decision on best deal of fabric
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REQUISITION FOR THE FABRIC (QUATION SHEET) 90 ORDER CONFIRMATION
PERFORMA INVOICE
FABRIC PURCHASE ORDER
FABRIC PURCHASE ORDER
ORDER FOR INITIAL BULK COUNTER APPROVAL ORDER IN BULK FABRIC IN HOUSE RECEIVING OF FABRIC REQUIREMENT PROGRAM (FP) FROM MERCHANT PERFORMA INVOICE FOR PROCESSING ORDER OF BULK PROCESSING PROCESSED FABRIC IN HOUSE INSPECTION OF RAW FABRIC
FABRIC PRO REQ (QUATION SHEET)
ORDER CONFERMATION
JOB PROCESSING ORDER(JPO)
INSPECTION ISSUE TO PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT COUNTER APPROVAL 21
2.5. FABRIC STORAGE DEPARTMENT
Fabric sourcing and storage department does their work together, but this department starts its work when fabric comes in-house or fabric store, they inspect both raw and processed fabric, with machines and manually, when they do all their work then they give report to sourcing department about status of fabric . For inspection, they follow 4 point system and the fabric received and the fabric issued details are fed into the SAP software. There are different register for record that maintains all the information about fabric that comes in the store and that are issued to any merchant.
STORAGE OF FABRIC Fabric packages are stored in the racks in two areas: 1. Checked fabric 2. Unchecked Fabric They are further segregated on the basis of style no. And lot wise. The fabric is put in racks with the help of Fork Lift and pallets. Such a systematic maintenance of the store makes it easy to make the fabric whenever needed in future.
2.6. FABRIC INSPECTION In order to accomplish complete control on the quality of the finished product, it is imperative to have stringent quality checks on the raw material. Pearl Global quality control procedures based on AQL 4 point system are laid out based on which all fabrics that come into the warehouse are screened and categorized. The fabric being the main contributor to the development of final product i.e. the garment, it is very important to a control its quality indicated by the no. of faults and variations present in it. Identifications of these objectionable variations and faults right at the initial stage helps to reduce the production time. So once the fabric is in-housed it is immediately sent to the inspection area. TYPES OF INSPECTION Raw fabric inspection Processed fabric inspection 22
Formula used in inspection In Yard= Defects Points*3600 /Length* Width In Meter = Defects Points10,000 /Length* Width 9.44 yard = 1 meter They accept fabric if raw fabric has maximum 28 point and processed fabric has maximum 40 points Other defects considered in the fabric store are: OIL STAINS WEAVING DEFECTS DEAD COTTON PATCHY BOWING and SKEWNESS Every defect encountered is marked with an arrow sticker. A fabric checking report is filled which gives the details about the defects found. After the checking is done the fabric is repacked in large poly bags and graded according to the standards set by the company. The graders are as follows- A CLASS: NO defects, Fabric can be used. B/MENDED CLASS: Defect are present but under acceptance level, can be mended to first class by subsequent processing, Fabric to be cut care. C CLASS: Fabric to be negotiated with supplier. D CLASS: Rejected defects are present beyond acceptance level, Fabric not to be used.
Main responsibilities Checking in proper manner. In case there is C and D category in passed lot, should be recheck again and rechecking report need to be made. Lab report along with fabric checking report should be given to fabric sourcing manager as well as merchandiser. No fabric issued to cutting without QA sign. Knit fabric check in kilograms. 23
Receive fabrics Start Conduct shrinkage test on minimum 2 bits/bale or minimum 10 bits of consignment Forward one meter of each consignment for lab test Verify whether quantity received match with quantity ordered Inform to stores and prepare goods received note (in case of imported fabric) Inspection based on four points system. Match bulk with approved dye lot, width of fabric etc. Name shade lot as ABC Send to merchant for buyers approval If approved Forward to cutting dept. End Reject lot If No If No If No If Yes If Yes If Yes
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2.7. OUTSOURCING DEPARTMENT This department has the job of sourcing work from outside the unit. Outsourcing may be required for any task. Even if the company has the capacity to do it, it may not be able to do it if the particular section/machine is busy some other task, these all are the responsibilities of outsourcing department who get these job done from outside. For example in Pearl Global they do this for embroidery because they do not have embroidery machines.
2.8. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT This department is headed by Mr. Madav. Pearl Global has a big sampling room, and this department directly coordinates with the merchandising department and production department, In any export house, the sampling department plays a vital role in the uplifting of a unit. Sampling is done to see how the product will look alike when produced in bulk and to check whether any discrepancies in the pattern are there or not. Patterns are made according to the buyers specification. A sample is a prototype of a product to be manufactured in future course of production. It is also called mock up of a product and is made to check the design effectiveness and fit of the garment. Sampling is a set of procedure follotheyd to produce various sample styles. It contains activities like making of pattern for prototypes according to measurement of produce sample with the help of machinery and getting buyers approval for the sample produce, there are different categories of samples like Proto/Development sample Fit sample Testing samples Preproduction sample Sealer samples TOP sample Ad sample Photo samples etc Proto/Development sample- This is first development of any sketch sheet. Three piece are made in similar kind of fabric and trims. 25
Fit sample- If buyer likes development sample, the he provide the size chart, now that sample is made according to that measurement and sizes. Fit samples are normally made in base size or sometimes as per buyer specification.
Testing samples- Testing samples are made for tests e.g. FPT, GPT etc.
Preproduction sample- Preproduction samples are made with actual fabric, actual trims and actual measurements; Merchant approves all these things from buyer one by one and keeps record with him for reference and as a proof for the time of inspection. These are made in all sizes and all colors that are required before but actual production as name indicate it.
Sealer samples- Comes from buyer side, through PP samples that merchant sent to buyer, these samples are reference sample for production and inspection.
TOP sample- Top of production samples are sample that merchant sends to buyer and he takes these from production, these are first six piece of production, merchant sends these sample because method of stitching and all in sampling and production are different. Ad sample Samples make for advertisement are called ad sample. Photo shoot samples Samples make for photo shoot on models etc are called photo sample. MAIN FUNCTIONS Two main functions of sampling dept are: 1. To cater the buyer 2. New Development 26
TO CATER THE BUYER In this method first a Tec-Pack or Garment Specification Sheet (GSS) is given by the buyer and then on the basis of this GSS Patterns are made by the pattern master. With the help of these patterns fabric average is calculated and then by adding other cost also costing is send to the buyer. On the basis of this costing buyer places an order. Once the order is placed the sampling dept starts producing samples. These samples are then send to the buyer through merchandiser for his approval as per the sequence shown in the above. NEW DEVELOPMENT In this method a new design is developed by the designer of the company. Before developing a new design forecasting is done. By this forecasting they come to know that which colour, embroidery, type of fabric, silhouette, and texture etc will be like by the fabric in the upcoming season. This new design is then send to the buyer and if buyer likes the design; he may place an order of the same design or with some modification in the new design. Once the order is placed by the buyer, the sampling dept starts producing samples. These samples are then sent to the buyer through merchandiser for his approval.
MAIN ACTIVITIES The main activities of the department are: SAMPLE REQUEST Firstly the sampling request originates from buyer to merchant; it can be come in the form of tech pack or development sample, then sampling requests are approved by MM/GM. The evaluation is basically analyzed on the possibility of executing within timeframe with the given resources and Checking/Identifying material availability, for this purpose, Merchant makes TNA and they contact with sourcing department, to know about the availability of material and also they get clarification from buyer so as to make the request complete in terms of understanding. After all they take decision on sample request.
SAMPLE FABRIC- WORK ORDER CREATION Firstly merchant contact to sourcing dept or store, to see required fabric is available in stores or not. If available then he gets fabric from their otherwise he sends his runner to arrange fabric from local market like as Nehru place. 27
For this he gives clear information like quality/colors/reference fabrics /quantity required etc. If modification is requested by sourcing, amendment or clarification is done by merchant. Merchant discuss approximate cost & lead time details with MM/GM. Reconfirmation with buyer is done, if required Proceed to sample cost sheet COSTING OF SAMPLE Cost sheet is created by merchant and approved by MM. Cost sheet consists following details Fabric cost/qty Accessories cost Any special process cost Cut & make cost Others - courier /transportation etc
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Tech pack received from merchant Develop patterns Costing CAD marker Develop sample Develop fit/proto sample Revise Fit/Proto sample PP sample Revise PP sample Size set sample Incorporate buyer comments Sealer sample Incorporate buyer comments Bulk production (shrinkage to be added if its a wash program) If no comments If no comments If no comments If no comments If any comments comments If any comments comments If any comments comments If any comments comments Fig 3: Workflow of sampling
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2.9. CAD DEPARTMENT
Buyer gives the size chart for all the size of garment to the merchandising department before development sample, then the size chart reaches the sampling department for development sample and fit sample. The base pattern is prepared by the sampling department for these samples, after fit sample that size chart forward to CAD department for grading. Now the base pattern is digitized and brought on the computer. Here grading is done to develop pattern of all size required sizes. The department has Two CAD labs Two digitizers Four computers Two plotters After getting purchase order, they do marker planning; they transfer pattern file from Modaris software to Diaminos software through variant folder for markers efficiency this is done to achieve maximum possible efficiency. The efficiency obtained depends on the style of garment that varies from80%-86%. In normal style 82% efficiency is ok, but they try to achieve more efficiency for their profit purpose. The software used for pattern grading are Modaris of Lectra System Ltd and PDS of Garber system Ltd, and they use Diamino 4.2C2 for average and marker efficiency.
Receive patterns from pattern master Digitize pattern to feed in Receive spec sheet form 30
2.10. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
The basic aim of an export house is to deliver value satisfaction of the customer at the profit level. Production is an act of producing a product i.e quantity obtained by multiplying two quantities together by making use of available resources. To deliver quality with the quantity the ratio between input resources or raw material or output goods and services is known as productivity are reciprocally related to each other. Therefore an increase in production leads to the fall in cost and rise in profit. PRODUCTION MANAGER Pattern correction Pattern grading Cut ratio planning Market planning according to the cut plan ratio Output mini marker to printer Output marker to plotter Send to cutting room for cutting Send to merchandiser for costing Output to plotter Pattern sent to merchandiser for sampling WORK FLOW IN CAD DEPARTMENT
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The job of production manager is to discuss Operation bulletin, machine layout and manpower with production in charge and coordinate with the production contractor explaining him the details of piece rate, final deadline, OT incentives (which is decided by GM of the company after discussing with other managers. FLOOR IN CHARGE The job of floor in charge is to collect sealer sample from production manager and make reference based sealer sample to display in each batch and to coordinate during production and ensure peak production. He also delegates work to the both floor to the respective supervisors. SUPERVISOR The Supervisor is responsible for making and receiving the approved templates and profiles from feeding helpers for running style and giving all the planning for the production setting. OPERATOR The job of the operator is to perform the operation with desired quality and good efficiency. FEEDING HELPERS The cut panels are loaded onto the machine and given to the operator bundle wise by the feeding helper. They also monitor bundle movement by maintaining the bundle loading register.
2.11. CUTTING AND BUNDLING DEPARTMENT
This department is headed by Mr. Kuldeep Singh, the cutting department provides cut parts to the all production floors. The main details are as follows: The cutting department spreads fabric manually. Length of fabric spreading tables is 18 meters but they spread only 6-7 meters in layers according to size ratio. There are 9 straight knives and 1 band knife. There are 2 fusing machines They bundle pieces in the quantity of 10 after ticketing. They spread a brown paper on table before lying of fabric on table.
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Yes
No
Yes
NO
Acquire fabric from fabric store Cut sample to check Require Checking Cut for initial size set Assemble and check Require changes Issue job order Send to CAD for Change Receive changed pattern from CAD WORK FLOW IN CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Cutting package from production manager 33
2.12. SEWING DEPARTMENT
Pearl Global has assembly line system, they have lines and 40 machines in each line. and in their production manpower they have 20% skilled labor for critical operations 30% semiskilled labor 50% unskilled labor for simple operations e.g. side seams. They have different type of machines in sewing department, that are mentioned in annexure no--- Production capacity of PGL unit no. 446 is 6000 piece per day. Average time of sewing a garment is 25-40 minute. SMV department gives actual time for stitching of a particular garment. And through time and motion study production department sets the sequence of operations and number of operations. To remove all production related problems management team held a pre production meeting, people that are involve in production from any of department all attend this meeting and discuss on production related issues.
MAIN RESPONSIBILITIES Bulk cutting Sorting Cut plan Bundling Issue 34
Main responsibilities of this department are They should follow lead time. Operations strength in terms of seams strength, buttons holes strength and other this kind of operation should be according to buyer requirements. Placement of parts should be on correct place. Operation sequence also should be correct for saving of time. In terms of stitching, right person should be on right job because of garment finishing.
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Start Bulk Production Cut parts received from cutting End line checking & AQL audit Assembly Sewing process begins Button & button hole/ Bar tack Rough checking Ironing Final checking Tagging Packing FSA Audit Measurement checking Auditing by buyer QA Truck out End In-Line checking Washing 36
2.13. WASHING DEPARTMENT
In the washing department, Firstly fabrics are washed for the shrinkage tests and then final garments after completion of all processes are also washed and given certain required washing finishes according to buyer requirements and tech. packs. After wash, the garments are sends to finishing department that is near to washing department. These are different type of in-house washes Dip:-with simple water NID/Normal wash:-with simple water and detergent Softener/Silicon wash:-for softness of garment Perk wash:-to remove oily stain Enzyme wash:-discolor to denim fabric Stone wash:-for softness Sand Blast:-discolor to different type of fabrics
2.14. PRESSING DEPARTMENT Pressing in general is shaping the assembled material with pressure, with /without heat and/or moisture for further processing. In case of knits this is important but not as significant as in the case of wovens because of their property of excellent recovery and fit. Then the ironing of the garments takes place on the steam boards with steam ironing machine. The patterns of the size of the garments and then pressed. This is done so that if there are any measurement discrepancies, they can be set or removed by stretching or contracting while steam pressing the knits. This ensures one final and equal look within one size of the garment.
2.15. FINISHING DEPARTMENT After assembly, the garments now come for finishing a key stage of garment manufacturing process .finishing is done to prepare the final garment according to the quality standards of the buyer before packing it for shipment. 37
PROCESS FLOW OF FINISHING After washing garment goes to finishing department, in this department workers remove the extra threads from garment Manually with the help of trimming scissor, thats called thread cutting or trimming and then they checks spots or stains and remove these stains with the help of spotting guns, they also removes the paper type things that comes because of ticketing and bundling process, after that they sends these garment to pressing department for pressing.
2.16. PACKING DEPARTMENT In packing department they pack garments according to buyer requirements, they do different type of packing e.g. Roll pack Umbrella pack Fold pack Hanger pack Flat pack Half fold pack Ratio pack Blister pack MAIN FUNCTION To follow required packing style and quantity. To seal curtain in the proper way.
2.17. INSPECTIONS DEPARTMENT Suppliers who use subcontractors for production must have their own QC's working under the subcontractors. It is the supplier's responsibility to make sure that the subcontractor follows all buyers quality standards and requirements.
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DIFFERENT TYPES OF INSPECTIONS:
INITIAL INSPECTION: It is important that the QC team carries out initial inspections after a trial cutting of 150 -600 pieces covering all sizes and colors. This is to ensure conformance to requirements. This inspection is very important in order to get a smooth running production. At this stage it is still possible to find and solve problems without causing any major disturbance in the production. Information about an order's planned production start and finish is to be given to the production manager
INLINE INSPECTION: The purpose of this inspection is to confirm that during the early stages of production, the agreed manufacturing specifications are being followed. The approved counter sample, and its duplicates, must be present at all stages of production. Information regarding style, measurements, accessories etc must be available for everyone. All problems identified during inline inspections, must be corrected immediately by the supplier and must not be present at the time of the next QC inspection. The goods must be inspected and records must be kept after each major stage during production e.g. Cutting: - parts and panels size conformance, fabric defects. Pre-assembly: - general workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g. Stitching, linking, collars, sleeves, position of pockets. Assembly: - general workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g. stitching, linking, pockets, zippers, position and fastening of buttons and rivets, buttonholes. Finishing/pressing: - overall workmanship, pressing appearance and measurements.
GENERAL CHECKING: 39
After washing, the garment comes for general checking relating to overall stitching. Here, first the general visual appearance is studied which includes shape of the garment, balancing of the parts, color variations etc. then any seaming defects are recognized for example unmade seams, missed stitches etc. As per requirement the checked pieces are sent for mending in the assembly line. The production manager gives a TOP sample to the checkers as a visual aid.
MEASUREMENT AND FINAL CHECKING/INSPECTION: This is the final and most stringent checking done for garment measurements, appearance, labels, trims etc. to study the final look and shape of the product produced. Measurements are done according to the specification sheets and recordings are made for any variations in the measurement chart. This gives an overall idea about the quality of the garment being produced. Finally, all the good garments are counted recorded and sent to the packing tables. Because final inspection is the stage of inspection when the garment is going to packing, this is very important to inspect garment very carefully, to remove all reasons of rejections and buyers discounts. On this stage garment should be check from every point of view from fabric construction to pressing. MAIN FUNCTION OF DEPARTMENT To follow the approvals and maintains quality on that required level. Time to time checking of garment in terms of quality, quantity and construction. The goods must be inspected and records must be kept after each major stage during production.
2.18. HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT The human resource department is involved with managing the most important resource of the apparel industry that is manpower.
This department is headed by Mr. Pankaj Bhasin, this department coordinates between the buyer and the whole company. The primary concern of an apparel firm is to provide a product line that will meet the needs of the selected target market and produce a profit so the firm can grow. The product line is the primary responsibility of merchandising. Merchandising is planning, developing, and presenting product line (s) for identified target market(s) with regard to pricing, assortment, styling, and timing. Merchandising is the central coordinating point for the product line. This department works in conjunction with various other supporting departments. There are basically two types of merchandising in Pearl Global. Marketing merchandising: The merchandiser approaches buyer with the sample developed by the design department and receives production order for the same. Main function of marketing merchandising are : Product development Costing Ordering Product merchandising: In which the buyer contact the merchandiser and send their samples for the production. Product merchandising includes all responsibilities from sample request confirmation to shipment as follows: Product development 41
Market and Product analysis Booking Orders Confirming deliveries and sampling Costing Raw material Flow monitoring and delivering samples to buyer Production follow ups Documentation Payment follows Shipment Merchandising or merchandise means commodities or goods dealt in by merchant. A merchant is the person who acts as a link between a buyer and vendor; he is the one who is central or integral part of a garment industry. Merchant is a trader, an exporter or importer of a garment he is basically a employee of a vendors company who is being responsible to the buyer and coordinate the full manufacturing process of garment right from getting the order, approving the design, ordering fabric, cutting, production and up to shipment of the order. A merchant involves coordinating and follows up against tight schedules. He has to take care of quality, delivery on time and simultaneously the price of garment and due to which the merchant is liable for some percentage in the company profit.
MERCHANDISING ACTIVITIES Order booking and Receiving all detailed information -from buyer like style details, fabric type, quality and fiber content, trim requirements and quality color details and various other details like washing, printing, embroideries etc. Capacity fulfilment-Fabric and accessories booking- Receive the PO and accepted L/C, amendments if any, confirm price, category, delivery schedule and the required lead time etc. Sample arrangement- Make proto types, coordinate with Research & Development team, find fabric costing and initial costing, send sample with price code and various other job works at sampling stage etc. 42
Delivery on time to buyer- Get the approval for samples and trims, prepare the time and action calendar, prepare the fabric and trim indent. Test reports- Coordinate with R&D and IE for further detailed R&D reports, coordinate with PPC for production planning, send order status to the buying office at every stage.
Production detail preparation- Call for the production meeting, prepare the production file and take care of the budget at each stage.
Shipping detail preparation- merchandiser works with shipping dept for booking vessel and other mediums for transporting shipment till vessel and export documentation for preparing necessary document for custom clearance and payments and also for importing fabrics and accessory.
Merchandiser should take lot approval and all these type of approval means each and every thing that they use in a particular garment style they should take approval from buyer for reference and he take it as a proof on the time of inspection, so therefore from every roll and lot swatch is taken firstly, it is observed in-house and then dispatched to buying house for approvals and after approvals cutting go head will be given to the factory. Merchandiser has to do the entire above task for each style but before starting, merchant has to do costing and plan the whole process from fabric ordering till shipment date and it is called as Time and Action Calendar (T & A Calendar ). Merchandiser prepares two T & A Calendar, one external for buyer and supplier which is compactly prepared to get approvals from buyer and to receive ordered fabric and trims/accessories to get on-time deliveries, from suppliers in-house and other T & A for internal working for prompt working for style. Before starting the costing for a style, merchandiser has to consider the following: Fabric Average Labour Expenses (Calculated with the help of SMV ) Thread Consumption Trims and Accessories Cost Cut Make cost (CM) Finishing 43
Packaging Margin Exchange Rate
COSTING The most important function of the merchandising dept is to calculate the total cost of the garment. It is the job of the merchandiser to estimate the initial cost correctly and also negotiate the cost of production with the buyer before he sends his PO. The costing should be such that it suits the buyer and also the Export House. At the Preproduction stage initial costing is done so as to get an idea of the cost likely to be incurred. This cost includes raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost, make up cost, overhead expenses and the margin of the company. After the buyer has placed his order and production sample is approved then the final costing is done. The final costing uses fabric average from CAD, cost of fabric and trims etc. INTERNAL INDENT-It is an internal document of the company which is a deviation between the actual costing given to the buyer and companys costing
PROCESS FLOW OF MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
ORDER CONFIRMATION PURCHASE ORDER DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE TIME AND ACTION PLAN COSTING 44
FIT SAMPLE TRIM ORDER COMMENT FABRIC ORDER INTERNAL CHECKING AND TESTING INTERNAL CHECKING AND TESTING(FPT)
APPROVEL FROM BUYER
APPROVEL FROM BUYER
SUBMISSION OF REVISED FIT SAMPLE IF REQUIRED/ COMMENT
GARMENT PERFORMANCE TEST PP SAMPLE/COMMENT PREPRODUCTION MEETING FINAL INSPECTION TRIMS IN HOUSE FABRIC IN HOUSE FINAL INSPECTION
VESSELS BOOKING REPORT TO MERCHANDISER REPORT TO MERCHANDISER
R & D, SMV AND OPERATION BREAKDOWN PRODUCTION-CUTTING, SEWING AND FINISHING ETC FILES HANDOVR TO PRODUCTION DEPT
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SUBMISSION OF TOP SAMPLE/COMMENT PACKING, INSPECTION SHIPMENT PAYMENT 46
PROJECT WASTE MINIMIZATION AND REWORK REDUCTION
PEARL GLOBAL LTD
SUBMITTED BY KAPIL KUMAR MASTER OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
SUBMITTED TO
National Institute of Fashion Technology New Delhi, (Ministry of Textiles) Department of Fashion Technology
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3. PROJECT 3.1. Waste minimization 3.1.1. OBJECTIVES: To define wastage and outline the challenges to control it To calculate wastage of each department through study of styles To identify the stages of wastage To find waste percentage and cost lost in wastage through costing sheet To develop formats on wastage for each department and the costing sheet
3.1.2. Research methodology:
3.1.3. Literature review What is wastage? Waste is purchased raw material which is subsequently not sold as product. Waste costs money. Reducing the amount of waste the company produces will increase profits and help the company to remain competitive.
Collecting Data from different department Analyzing data Calculation of different losses Finding areas of improvement Suggesting improvements 48
Waste classification Overproduction -- Manufacture of products in advance or in excess of demand wastes money, time and space. Waiting -- Processes are ineffective and time is wasted when one process waits to begin while another finishes. Instead, the flow of operations should be smooth and continuous. According to some estimates, as much as 99 percent of a product's time in manufacture is actually spent waiting. Transportation -- Moving a product between manufacturing processes adds no value, is expensive and can cause damage or product deterioration. Inappropriate processing -- Overly elaborate and expensive equipment is wasteful if simpler machinery would work as well. Excessive inventory wastes resources through costs of storage and maintenance. Unnecessary motion -- Resources are wasted when workers have to bend, reach or walk distances to do their jobs. Workplace ergonomics assessment should be conducted to design a more efficient environment. Defects -- Inspecting and quarantining inventory takes time and costs money.
WASTAGE STAGES
FABRIC SOURCED FROM OUTSIDE FABRIC ISSUED TO CUTTING PCS CUT CUT PIECES ISSUED TO BUNDLING PCS ISSUED FROM BUNDLING TO SEWING PCS FROM PRODUCTION TO FINISHING PCS ISSUED TO PACKING 49
REASONS FOR WASTAGES
FABRIC STORE: Fabric must be inspected properly. Though 100% inspection is difficult but the 10% inspection that is done should be done religiously as a lot of fabric defects do find their way to production floor.
SPREADING: Some defects are detected at time of spreading but some minor defects get undetected. Also since manual spreading is done which is prone to errors. End cutters are not used and fabric is torn by hand which may lead to fabric skewing, bowing and frayed edges.Three operators are used for spreading one for spreading, one for holding and one for aligning. Even the use of simple roll stand traveler can reduce the need of holding operator.
CUTTING: Cutting wastage may come from marker utilization, extra cut percentage, end bits and remnants. Roll width is not properly utilized. Cut order planning is done only on the basis of the sizes which are required to be shipped first. Roll length and roll width are not taken into consideration, markers made on minimum width.
TICKETING & BUNDLING: Most of the cutting defects are passed off no proper checking at time of bundling. While ticketing some pieces may not get ticketed or wrongly ticketed.
SEWING: While sewing if operator founds the piece to be defective it should be disposed off right at that time and should not be preceded for further operation. But operator gets involved in his own work so much that some minor defects usually get undetected.
FINISHING: fit/ measurement defects, trim defects, spots, pressing defects.
WASHING: Wastage due to loss or misplaced pieces while transportation.
3.1.4. Case study: Fabric Wastage and lost pieces estimation and control measures: Fabric comprises at least 50% of the garment cost and the best fabric utilization is to use every inch of what you buy, converting it into garments and ultimately into earnings. To evaluate the amount of wastage happening at various stages and its reasons, study was conducted on 3 styles. BUYER GAP
GARMENT DARTED DRESS TOP DRESS SHIRT DRESS TOP WITH FRILLS
To establish and identify the major areas of waste. Orders were thoroughly investigated in the factory. The results of which have been presented here:
The results show that of the total fabric bought for an order only 82% is being used effectively the remaining 18% is being lost in one way or the other. The major contributors to this loss are :-
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Style Style 1: #882639 GAP Style 2 #857945 GAP Style 3 # V-1185 Pull & Bear Color Grey print Green print Sulphur Petroleum Green Order quantity (No. of pieces) 13140 13722 7510 10840 10840 Marker avg. estimated 0.9 0.9 1.75 1.58 1.58 Required fabric (yards) 11826 12349.8 13142.5 17127.2 17127.2 Fabric store (yards) Fabric ordered 13670 14275 14400 22024 18206 Fabric received 13635 14265 14452 22020 18206 Issued to cutting -11553 -12220 -13124 -17674.6
-17222.5 Fabric left in stock 2082 2045 1328
4345.35
983.55
Cutting (No. of pieces) 14395 14395 7849 11496 11353 Bundling (No. of pieces) 14395 14395 7849 11496 11353 Sewing (No. of pieces) 14122 14934 7849 11496 11353 Finishing (No. of pieces) 13140 13753 7635 10840 10842 Shipped (No. of pieces) 13125 13725 7624 10840 10840 Findings sheet 52
Dead stock It is the fabric that is left in your stores after the order has been shipped. This is mostly the result of over cautious buying. No one wants to be blamed for short shipment and so there are lots of stages where extra percentages are added. As an example the Pattern master calculates consumption on medium size (2 mtr) and adds extra approximately 10 cm to compensate for large sizes a further 3 to 5% is added for cutting wastages and 2% for shrinkage and defects. The fabric is ordered and a further 5% is added since the buyer allows a potential 5% to be over-shipped.
Cut to Ship Ratio: This ratio represents the number of garments shipped against number of garments cut. The cut to ship ratio varies between 95% and 99%. 6 of the factories achieved a ratio of 96/97% with only two of them achieving acceptable delivery percentages.
Finding out cut to ship ratio:
Lost Fabric Data
Finding out how much of total fabric is ordered and what %age of it actually ended up as shippable garment From the rest %age, cutting loss %age, rejection %age, and dead stock %age is determined and rest is misplaced or lost fabric %age
Style no. Cut pieces Shipped pieces Cut to ship ratio Loss % #882639 GAP Grey print 14395 13195 91.70% 8.30% Green print 14395 13725 95.35% 4.65% #857945 GAP sulphur 7849 7624 97.13% 2.87% #V1185 Pull & Bear Petroleum 11496 11353 98.76% 1.24% Green 10840 10840 100% 0 Total 17.06% 53
#882639 #857945 #V1185 Consumption
0.9
1.75
1.58 Pattern master (allowances) 10 cm 1 10 cm 1.85 10 cm 1.68 Cutting wastage 3% 1.03 3% 1.906 3% 1.73 Shrinkage 1% 1.0403 1% 1.925 2.5% 1.77
#882639 #857945 #V1185 Fabric required 24176 13142.5 37318.5 Fabric Bought 27900 14452 40452 Fabric accounted for 26850 *0.9 = 7624*1.75= 21680*1.58= 24165 13342 34254.4 Fabric Unaccounted for or lost 3735 1110 6197.6 % loss 13.39% 7.60% 15.32%
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*overproduction loss is not included Fabric Utilization style Fabric required Fabric Received Fabric accounted for Fabric Unaccounted for or lost % loss utilization % KPI #882639 24176 27900 24165 3735 13.39% 86.612903 87 #857945 13142.5 14452 13342 1110 7.60% 92.319402 92 #V1185 37318.5 40452 34254.4 6197.6 15.32% 84.679126 85 Avg KPI for fabric utilization 12.10333 87.870477 88
In this case the loss is 13% of the total fabric bought, this fabric is either dead stock, lost in cutting room, lost as reject garments or arrived short on rolls from mill. However, once the shipment leaves we revel in the fact that we have sent more than order qty instead of realizing the fact that we actually bought extra 5% fabric but not converted it into earnings.
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Overproduction loss Manufacture of products in advance or in excess of demand wastes money, time and space. Style Style 1: Style 2 Style 3 #882639 #857945 # V-1185 Color Grey print Green print Sulphur Petroleum Green unit Order quantity 13140 13722 7510 10840 10840 no. of pcs Cutting 14395 14395 7849 11496 11353 no. of pcs Sewing 14122 14934 7849 11496 11353 no. of pcs extra produced 982 1212 339 656 513 no. of pcs overproduction % 7.47% 8.83% 4.51% 6.05% 4.73% avg 16.30% 4.51% 10.78% 6.94%
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3.1.5. case study: Cutting loss analysis The Cutting room is one of the most important departments in the factory; The staff in many of the departments need to be Fabric Conscious. An improvement of 2-3% in utilization efficiency can make a huge difference to bottom line profitability. Comprehensive fabric reconciliation is essential; to see this vital aspect in their controls. Width control Lets start with this aspect, I was once told that if you can save 1% in width then you will save 1% in length, this of course is not consistently true but it is a fact that on some markers a considerable difference in the marker length can be achieved if an additional 1cm can be gained on width. So it is essential that fabric is PROPERLY measured for width when it arrives, and of course the width that is measured is from selvedge to selvedge. At this time it is also necessary to split the newly arrived fabric into two more categories, shade and shrinkage, and if this is done correctly then we can choose specific groups and match them to lays so that all of the fabric used in one lay conforms to the same specifications.
Wider width fabric and narrower width fabric kept together in a lay, no width wize segragation for fabric. 57
Marker made to the lowest width leading to loss in fabric
Benefit of Fabric Width Utilization in Factory Style No: #103852 GAP Width variation found in the fabric 153 cm to 156 cm. The marker was made on minimum width. Marker width taken as 142 cm for shell fabric
For lining fabric width variation found to be 120 to 121 cm Marker was made as 118.5 width: 58
Remnant Markers and End bit Administration: factory cut garments from remnants (End bits) but they are frequently saved to cut part changes and the remaining fabric is wasted. It must be made mandatory to use all the remnants to cut garments before the last marker and part changes were done only from off cuts. The final comparison between costed/buying and achieved consumption will be considerably improve.
Recommendations 1. Accurate Fabric reconciliations to be completed for each order, 2. Standard times for each process must be established, 3. An operator monitoring system needs to be introduced, 4. Cutting room layout and the workflow can be improved, 5. End pieces and remnants should be properly managed, 6. Markers should be made as per the fabric width. 7. Work transportation trolleys and other work aids should be introduced,
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3.1.6. case study: Lost Time calculation
Lost time is described as Time lost by operators for which they are not responsible. It can be used to monitor the effectiveness of line balancing, service by mechanics, and all other delays that cause the operator to lose productivity. Company does not utilize this tool adequately.
If the factory made an attempted to record lost time; they will be able to reap substantial benefits from monitoring lost time and identifying areas of improvement in system to achieve the full potential.
M/A Ratio Study in Factory
This is a study to establish what the operators are capable of: M = Measured (Timed)
I timed each operation for 3-5 cycles to get the time taken by the operator.
The measured time = 34.93minutes + 20% allowances = 41.91 minutes
An allowance of 20% was added to the measured time for all contingencies.
A = Achieved. This is the average time taken to produce the garment.
Total no. of people working on the style: 52, working 8 hours a day, the production output per hour=46 pieces.
The actual line out time to make a garment is 63minutes.
The M/A ratio is 41.916 / 63.16 x 100 = 66.4%
33.6% of the operator time is lost,
Some of the reasons being: Poor line balancing resulting in waiting time. Poor work flow, and Poor supervisory control.
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STYLE # 857945 OPERATION BREAKDOWN PEARL GLOBAL LIMITED DESCRIPTION: SHIRT DRESS
BUYER GAP S. No. PART operatrs Operation Description ATTACH M/CS SMV TGT AT 100% 1 COLLAR 1 MARK PRESS COLLAR TEM IRON 0.45 133 2 1 RUN STITCH COLLAR SN 0.6 100 3 1 TURN PRESS COLLAR IRON 0.45 133 4 1 TOP STITCH AT COLLAR SN 0.6 100 5 2 ATTACH COLLAR TO COLLAR BAND SN 0.85 71 6 CUFF 1 MARK CUFF HD 0.45 133 7 2 RUN STITCH CUFF SN 0.75 80 8 SLEEVE 1 JOINT PIPING SN 0.45 133 9 1 SEW SLIT BINDER SN 0.5 120 10 1 TACK END OF SLIT SN 0.45 133 11 1 SEW PLETE AT SLEVE SN 0.6 100 12 BACK 1 SEW GATHER AT BACK SHERRIN SN 0.45 133 13 1 ATTACH BACK YOKE SN 0.6 100 14 FRONT 1 FOLD BUTTON PLACKET SN 0.5 120 15 1 CREASE FRONT PLACKET TEM IRON 0.45 133 16 1 FOLD BUTTON HOLE PATTI SN 0.6 100 17 1 TOP STITCH AT PLACKET SN 0.6 100 18 1 SEW GATHER AT FRONT SHOULDER SHERRIN SN 0.6 100 19 1 TACK BOTH FRONT END OF PLACKET SN 0.3 200 20 1 ATTACH SHOULDER SN 0.5 120 21 2 ATTACH COLLAR SN 0.7 86 22 2 FINISH COLLAR SN 0.88 68 23 2 ATTACH SLEEVE E/CUTERE SN 0.8 75 24 2 FINISH WITH FRENCH SEAM SN 0.85 71 25 2 SEW SIDE SEAM E/CUTERE SN 0.75 80 26 2 FINISH WITH FRENCH SEAM SN 0.75 80 27 POCKET 1 ATTACH POCKET FACING SN 0.6 100 28 1 SEW BAG E/CUTERE SN 0.6 100 29 1 O/LOCK AT BAG 3TOL 0.6 100 61
30 1 ATTACH BAG AT FRONT SN 0.6 100 31 1 BACK STITCH AT front SN 0.6 100 32 1 TACK BAG AT FRONT SN 0.55 109 33 1 SEW SIDE SEAM LOWER E/CUTERE SN 0.5 120 34 1 FINISH WITH FRENCH SEAM SN 0.5 120 35 1 ATTACH UPPER TO LOWER SN 0.7 86 36 1 CUT AN JOINT ELASTIC SN 0.45 133 37 1 TACK ELASTIC AT EMPIRE SEAM SN 0.35 171 38 1 FOLD MARGIN WITH ELASTIC SN 0.66 91 39 1 ATTACH CUFF C/SETER SN 0.6 100 40 1 TOP STITCH CUFF SN 0.7 86 41 1 BOTTOM FOLD FOLDER SN 0.6 100 42 1 PREPARE LABEL SN 0.5 120 43 1 ATTACH LABEL SN 0.45 133 44 1 ATTACH W/C LABEL SN 0.45 133 45 1 SEW BUTTON HOLES BH 0.75 80 46 1 ATTACH BUTTONS BA 0.75 80
26.99
no. of m/c operators 48 mannual workers (ironers in line) 4
total workers 52
absentism 7
attended minutes 480 planned efficiency 1
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DATE O.T Hrs No of Tailors present No. of M/c's TARGET Actual Output Minutes produced or SMV Earned attended time(includ ing OT) off std time on std time performance % utilization % efficiency 15/6/11
PEARL GLOBAL LIMITED STYLE: shirt dress #857945 STUDIED BY: Kapil Kumar BUYER: GAP DATE: 25-Jun S.N. DESC. M/C TYPE TOTAL TIME AVG.(basic time) measured time* Actual L/OT time **lost time
1 MARK PRESS COLLAR IRON 3.6 0.72 0.864 0.9 0.036 2 RUN STITCH COLLAR SN 5 1 1.2 1.2 0 3 TURN PRESS COLLAR IRON 1.65 0.33 0.396 1.04 0.644 4 TOP STITCH AT COLLAR SN 5 1 1.2 1.22 0.02 5 ATTACH COLLAR TO COLLAR BAND SN 4.1 0.82 0.984 1.14 0.156 6 MARK CUFF HD 2.05 0.41 0.492 1.04 0.548 7 RUN STITCH CUFF SN 5.4 1.08 1.296 2.29 0.994 8 JOINT PIPING SN 2 0.4 0.48 1.02 0.54 9 SEW SLIT SN 2.2 0.44 0.528 1.02 0.492 10 TACK END OF SLIT SN 2 0.4 0.48 1.02 0.54 11 SEW PLETE AT SLEVE SN 3.45 0.69 0.828 1.22 0.392 12 SEW GATHER AT BACK SN 3.55 0.71 0.852 1.02 0.168 13 ATTACH BACK YOKE SN 3.5 0.7 0.84 1.04 0.2 14 FOLD BUTTON PLACKET SN 3.65 0.73 0.876 1.48 0.604 15 CREASE FRONT PLACKET IRON 3.5 0.7 0.84 0.96 0.12 16 FOLD BUTTON HOLE PATTI SN 3.5 0.7 0.84 1.35 0.51 17 TOP STITCH AT PLACKET SN 0.65 0.13 0.156 1.13 0.974 18 SEW GATHER AT FRONT SHOULDER SN 4 0.8 0.96 1.13 0.17 19 TACK BOTH FRONT END OF PLACKET SN 1.5 0.3 0.36 1.12 0.76 20 ATTACH SHOULDER SN 4.15 0.83 0.996 1.17 0.174 21 ATTACH COLLAR SN 2.3 0.46 0.552 1.19 0.638 64
22 FINISH COLLAR SN 5.4 1.08 1.296 2.44 1.144 23 ATTACH SLEEVE SN 10.4 2.08 2.496 3.16 0.664 24 FINISH WITH FRENCH SEAM SN 13.5 2.7 3.24 3.67 0.43 25 SEW SIDE SEAM SN 2.5 0.5 0.6 1.19 0.59 26 FINISH WITH FRENCH SEAM SN 2.65 0.53 0.636 1.19 0.554 27 ATTACH POCKET FACING SN 5 1 1.2 1.25 0.05 28 SEW BAG SN 2.8 0.56 0.672 1.34 0.668 29 O/LOCK AT BAG 3TOL 2.3 0.46 0.552 1.25 0.698 30 ATTACH BAG AT FRONT SN 2.3 0.46 0.552 1.17 0.618 31 BACK STITCH AT front SN 2.25 0.45 0.54 1.17 0.63 32 TACK BAG AT FRONT SN 2.25 0.45 0.54 1.17 0.63 33 SEW SIDE SEAM LOWER SN 2.45 0.49 0.588 1.26 0.672 34 FINISH WITH FRENCH SEAM SN 5.1 1.02 1.224 2.13 0.906 35 ATTACH UPPER TO LOWER SN 5.4 1.08 1.296 2.3 1.004 36 CUT AN JOINT ELASTIC SN 2.25 0.45 0.54 1.17 0.63 37 TACK ELASTIC AT EMPIRE SEAM SN 5.1 1.02 1.224 1.12 -0.104 38 FOLD MARGIN WITH ELASTIC SN 12.5 2.5 3 3.12 0.12 39 ATTACH CUFF SN 7.4 1.48 1.776 2.44 0.664 40 TOP STITCH CUFF SN 3.5 0.7 0.84 1.28 0.44 41 BOTTOM FOLD SN 2.6 0.52 0.624 1.26 0.636 42 PREPARE LABEL SN 2.5 0.5 0.6 1.04 0.44 43 ATTACH LABEL SN 3.8 0.76 0.912 1.04 0.128 44 ATTACH W/C LABEL SN 3.95 0.79 0.948 1.3 0.352 45 SEW BUTTON HOLES BH 0 0 0 0 0 46 ATTACH BUTTONS BA 0 0 0 0 0 47 TOTAL 34.93 41.916 63.16 21.244
*measured time = (basic time + 20 % allowance)
**lost time = (actual line out time - measured time)
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Off-standard time Off standard time is that time utilised on performing tasks to which SMVs are not allocated.
On-standard time This is the actual time worker spent on productive work. This is calculated as the difference between attended time and off-standard time. This should be obvious and is used in calculating operator performance On standard time = (Attended time Off-standard time)
Utilization It is the time spent on productive time out of total attended time. It is the percentage of attended time working earning Standard Minute Values [SMV]. Utilization = (On standard time / Attended time) X 100
SMV Earned It is the measure of work done by operator. It is calculated from output from an operation generated in attended minutes and SMV of the operation. SMV earned = (SMV X Output in number of units)
Efficiency is directly related to both operator performance and the utilization of the operator. Efficiency = (SMV earned on standard / attended time) X 100
Individual Operator performance It is a measure of both the skills and motivation of the operator and calculated daily. Performance = (SMVs earned on standard / On standard time) x 100
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It
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Average efficiency is 42-45%
3.1.7. Maintenance department analysis
Companies allocate one mechanic for every 100 to 120 machines. The service provided by the mechanics is good and prompt. The mechanics are only expected to fix machines and contribute further by offering advice on attachments and equipment. There is increased involvement with the IE for the usage of attachments and folders.
The machines are well serviced and oil reservoirs are clean and well-maintained. A maintenance schedule is in place but is not followed properly. Companies dont have adequate mechanics or workshops, and if ever, space is provided for them it is inadequate and inaccessible. The storage space for spare parts is small and holds very few spares; spare parts are ordered when required. Companies do not have proper machine moving trolleys.
Recommendations 1. A regular maintenance schedule must be adhered to, 2. The mechanics department should have sufficient space allocated for proper workshop, 3. Spare parts store should be adequately stocked, 4. Machine moving trolleys should be provided.
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3.1.8. Production Department analysis
No Measurement = No Management Production problems and bottlenecks are solved by adding additional labor instead of solving the problem that has caused the bottleneck. The major focus is to ensure that the order is delivered on time and not the efficiency that is required to remain competitive. The most skilful people in the organization are spending their time chasing orders and not problem solving. The average industry efficiency is between 45-50% and certainly is not competitive in the world market.
Clippers Almost all the operators are working with huge scissors. Many operators trim pieces of fabric from garment panels that do not fit properly. If garment parts dont fit this indicates two possible problems: (A) The garments have been poorly cut; or (B) The patterns are wrong. It is essential that this activity is eliminated; operators should not be allowed to trim garment parts under any circumstances.
Recommendations 1. Bundle control systems with adequate bundle disciplines to be introduced, 2. Proper standard times and operator monitoring procedures to be established, 3. The supervisors need training to manage WIP levels, 4. The supervisors need training to do proper production monitoring and control, 5. Method Improvement procedures should be introduced, 6. Production monitoring systems should be introduced, 7. Production studies must be completed wherever poor performance is observed, 8. Lost Time information must be collected analyzed and acted upon, 9. Repair handling procedures must be revised, 10. Large inappropriate scissors must be eliminated, 11. Operators should not be allowed to trim garment parts.
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II. Repair and rework reduction: Do it right first time
3.2.1. OBJECTIVE: To analyze existing quality systems, trends available in the system and study its utilization for corrective action. Propose measures to improvise the quality system. To study the existing quality control norms and procedure in various departments. To make the quality monitoring process more efficient and reliable.
3.2.2. RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
3.2.3. Literature Review Quality Department Quality must be built-in; it cannot be examined into the product, this is a most important lesson and should be clearly understood. Although there is a 100% quality check in the sewing floor, an excessive number of faults find their way into finishing. Operators do not fix their mistakes but leave them for examiners to find resulting in a high repair level.
Repairs Repair rates are frightening giving a mixed picture varying from 5% to 60% on the production floor. It is important for us to understand that though the product quality is being maintained STUDY OF THE EXISTING QUALITY SYSTEM ANALYSIS OF QUALITY CHECKPOINTS IN THE INDUSTRY SUGGESTING WAYS TO IMPROVE PRODUCTION IDENTIFYING PROBLEM AREAS 70
for the customer, it is being done at a huge price to the manufacturer. The check, repair, re- check and repair can be reduced by simply improving effective communication between quality team of different departments. Repairs should always be given to the person who caused them, else the responsible person has no incentive to improve.
Quality Team Quality Teams are not completely independent of the production department, it is important to have clear reporting procedures and to keep the quality team independent of production management. Checkers in the line are also a part of the quality team. The Supervisor is responsible for the output but quality decisions must be made by the quality management team.
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3.2.4. EXISTING QUALITY CHECK POINTS:
BUNDLES ISSUED TO SEWING DEPARTMENT BUNDLES ISSUED TO SEWING LINE CUTTING BUNDLING CUTTING AUDIT FABRIC SOURCED FROM TEXTILE INDUSTRY INSPECTION OF FABRIC BY CHECKERS FABRIC ISSUED TO CUTTING DEPARTMENT SPREADING IN LINE INSPECTION AT CRITICAL POINTS END LINE INSPECTION WASHING 72
QUALITY AUDIT FINISHING MEASUREMENT CHECKING THREAD CUTTING REFINAL CHECKING FINAL CHECKING GENERAL CHECKING GENERAL CHECKING MEASUREMENT CHECKING ON IRONING TABLE THREAD CUTTING NEEDLE DETECTION PACKING INSPECTION 73
3.2.5. CASE STUDY: DEFECT ANALYSIS Defects Location Dept.Responsible Causes Remedies Picture Skip stitch Bottom hem Sewing dept Improper thread tension or breaking of thread while stitching Maintaining Proper thread tension while stitching
Uneven stitch Bottom hem Sewing dept Improper stitch density Proper stitch density
Raw edges visible Hemline Sewing dept Improper cutting of excess threads Trimming off excess or loose threads
Raw edges visible Armhole Sewing dept
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Un-uniformity in hem width Hemline Sewing dept Improper cutting or stitching Proper cutting or stitching
Puckering Side seams Sewing dept Improper tension of threads/ incorrect size of needles Proper thread tension and correct size needle use
Misaligned label Under yoke Sewing Operator inefficiency Operator training
Unequal hemline width Hemline Sewing Improper care while stitching Proper folding and stitching
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Misaligned stitch Stitch on elastic sewing Improper handling while stitching Elastic should be properly stretched while stitching
Puckering/ curling Side seams, shoulder and sleeve attachment area Sewing/pressing Operator inefficiency /Improper pressing Operator training/ proper pressing
Excess fabric not trimmed off hem Sewing/cutting Improper handling Proper handling
Uneven lace attached neckline sewing Improper marking Marking should be done properly
Frayed hole fabric Spreading/ cutting Fabric defect Fabric should be checked properly at time of spreading
pinching sewing Improper handling of fabric while stitching Fabric should be handled properly
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DEFECT ANALYSIS STYLE # 882639 GAP TOTAL PCS CHECKED: 100 PCS defect description defect category 1 open seam hem & arm hole area sewing 2 wrinkle stain at lining area pressing/ washing 3 fraying thread side seam and bottom finishing (thread cutting) 4 stain at lining side washing 5 ropping , sewing 6 poor pressing at bottom side seam pressing 7 main label insecured sewing 8 wrinkle stain at lining area washing 9 open seam at bottom sewing 10 rough joint stich at arm hole sewing 11 highking at side seam cutting 12 stain at lining inside area washing 13 hole in fabric fabric 14 frayed fabric cutting
DEFECT ANALYSIS STYLE # 44884 GAP TOTAL PCS CHECKED: 100 PCS defect description defect category 1 pinching stitch at armhole area sewing 2 rundown stitch at bottom sleeve opening sewing 3 uncut thread at inside area finishing (thread cutting) 4 stain at lining side washing 5 color variation at front and back fabric 6 visible fusing at placket cutting 7 rundown stitch at bottom and sleeve opening sewing 8 fraying cutting 9 uncut thread at inside area finishing (thread cutting) 10 poor pressing at overlock margin pressing 11 color variation at front and back fabric 12 sticker marks at placket washing 13 uncut thread at overlock area finishing (thread cutting) 14 open seam waist elastic sewing 15 poor pressing at overlock margin pressing 16 broken stitch at waist elastic sewing
PROBLEMS Lack of proper formats for tracking the defects in accessory and fabric department. Improper fabric inspection. Improper ply alignment and varying ply tension. Shorter lead time and large order No. of alterations in pieces is high No proper system for repair control A lot of time is spent in material handling Piling up of huge WIP in lines Lack of proper thread cutting machines
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RECOMMENDATIONS Proper training of: supervisors, operator, quality checkers. Repairs should be given to the operator who has caused it so that he has an incentive to improve this requires proper tracking of defects. Defects record should be maintain and analyzed for finding root cause of defects. Roving QC should be appointed on different production areas.
Finishing Department
Finishing departments are over-staffed, the time to finish a garment varied from 11.2 minutes to 57.6 minutes. Finishing times are excessive in company. Company is examining the garment as many as five times; this is driven by the fear of order rejection or rework. There is a great potential for improvement in this department.
Repairs Repair records show very high repair rates as much as 30-40%. Dirty marks and spots are major contributors although many of the garments have already been washed. Spotting defects are as high as 50%. Recommendations 1. Bundle control system should be introduced, washed garments can be re-constituted and control maintained. 2. Establishment of standard times and efficiency monitoring systems are essential, 3. The process sequence and work flow to be investigated, 4. A thorough investigation of repair rates and their necessary cause. 5. Properly planned workplace layouts to be introduced, 6. The factors creating stains and spotting problems should be investigated and remedies found. CHANGES MADE
BRFORE AFTER One of the factor causing stains is that fabrics rolls are kept open in racks in fabric store. During my internship racks were covered which may leads to reduction in stains. 80
4. CONCLUSION There is a great potential for improvements in controlling the amount of fabric bought, the estimates on which fabric is purchased and as previously mentioned safety margins built- in lead to dead stock. If the staff involved stop trying to protect themselves from errors and buy only what is really necessary lots of money will be saved. In many cases buyers are responsible for changing the style specifications at the last moment which contributes to these variances. Investigation into this suggests that on an average 10% extra fabric is being bought. There is no point in improving markers, using the width better, reducing end losses, using end bits better if you have overbought, all you are doing is adding to dead stock. So the common place assumption that we know how to save fabric could be untrue! It is possible that savings in the cutting room are worthless, since you have already purchased the fabric! It is vitally important that efficient fabric control systems are developed to monitor fabric usage from purchasing through to a final reconciliation, and how much we have Saved which is now on the stockroom shelves waiting for someone to buy it at a tenth of its original cost. Can it be that all of your efforts go towards allowing senseless wastages and increasing your dead stock holding? Quality must be built-in; it cannot be examined into the product, this is a most important lesson and should be clearly understood. Although there is a 100% quality check in the sewing floor, an excessive number of faults find their way into finishing. Operators do not fix their mistakes but leave them for examiners to find resulting in a high repair level. The emphasis placed on quality of the product is good; spec sheets and PP samples are available on the production floor. The tables and forms used by the examiners are satisfactory although the collected data could be better and can be better utilized if the information was shared between the end-line and roving quality personnel. PP meetings are held in most factories, not as a factory requirement but as the buyers requirement. Many times PP meetings are held after the fabric has been cut or even after production has started.
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BIBLIOGRAPHY [1]. Profiting through Quality: Improving Right First Time by Rajesh Bheda [2]. Controlling fabric usage by Method apparel consultancy Rojer Thomas [3]. Measurement of Sewing Capacity & Efficiency by Paul Collyer & Prof. Prabir Jana
website www.houseofpearl.com www.stitchworld.com
Internal data from various department Observation during work Interviews from various departments Manuals of pearl global limited.
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ANNEXURE
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M/c description model No. operation production 446 sampling 446 SEWING FLOOR: single needle single needle GC-128 Single needle 37 3 single needle 5530 normal 107 38 single needle 8500 normal 57 31 single needle 8300N normal 0 28 single needle KM-137 normal 14 1 single needle SL-7340 normal 69 30 single needle 5550 normal 3 3 single needle 1088 normal 47 3 single needle DDL-8700 normal 0 1
single needle N/ Feed single needle N / F 5410 Needle feed 10 0 single needle N / F GC-0518 Needle feed 1 0 single needle N / F 7210 Needle feed 18 0
single needle edge cutter single needle E/C SL-777 EDGE CUTTER 24 0 single needle E/C DLM-5200 EDGE CUTTER 37 0 single needle E/C GC-188 EDGE CUTTER 2 0
single needle UBT single needle UBT SL-2110-403-CP single needle UBT WITH co 25 0 single needle UBT SL-2110-403 single needle UBT 230 0 84
single needle UBT 5550-6 Normal 3 0 single needle UBT DDL-8700-7 UBT 72 0
Double needle split bar Double needle LH-3168 Split bar 5 0 Double needle T-8450-003- N64D split bar 11 0
Double needle Fix bar double needle T-8420-003- N64D fix bar 10 0 double needle TN-845 fix bar 0 1