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SMART

TEXTILES

KNITTED BLOOD VESSELS

Textiles that save lives

SHIRT RECHARGES YOUR CELL

Soon you will be able to take a walk and recharge your cellphone at the same time

METAL ON THE CATWALK

Nhu Duong uses one of five machines in the world

EDITORIAL STAFF Susanne Nejderås and Therese Rosenblad Ericsson, Smart Textiles, University of Borås. Elof Ivarsson and Pia Silver, PWR Communication. LAYOUT & PRODUCTION PWR Communication. www.pwr.se COVER PHOTO Ida Lindström.

PUBLISHER:

Erik Bresky, University of Borås.

www.pwr.se COVER PHOTO Ida Lindström. PUBLISHER: Erik Bresky, University of Borås. SMART TEXTILES IS A PART

SMART TEXTILES IS A PART OF:

www.pwr.se COVER PHOTO Ida Lindström. PUBLISHER: Erik Bresky, University of Borås. SMART TEXTILES IS A PART

THE IMPOSSIBLE IS ONLY A CHALLENGE WITH THE HELP OF SMART TEXTILES, RENATA CHLUMSKA WILL BE THE FIRST SWEDISH WOMAN IN SPACE SPACE: THE FINAL FRONTIER

Fabrics that purify water using nothing but the sun as an energy source. Clothes that can take an EKG or become cool at extreme temperatures. The textiles of the future will improve people’s everyday lives and benefit the industry, the health care sector and the environment. The textile industry is about to take a giant step from being a supplier of fabrics to become a positive force in the development of society. Smart Textiles is the place where textile innovations are created in Northern Europe, from experimental research to company driven projects. With over 350 research and company driven projects since its foundation in 2006, Smart Textiles has not only established itself as a motor in the Swedish textile industry but also as an important international player.

”Research & development of smart textiles create unique opportunities for Sweden.”

From a global perspective, the textile industry and the trade with textile and fashion products is one of the largest and most diverse businesses.

Today, the textile field is so much more than just fabrics and clothes. Textiles are used for applications ranging from e.g. reinforcement materials in composite materials used in air- planes and sound absorbing walls to advanced textile blood vessels (more about this on page 68). Quality requirements increase constantly, new materials are developed all the time and new applications are continuously identified, not least by the Smart Textiles Initiative.

Despite harsh international competition, Sweden is still home to world-leading research and businesses in textile and fa- shion. The textile materials also bring new, exciting business ventures to life. The ability to find products aimed at speci- fic market niches and being unique is crucial to success. High technology and world-leading quality awareness makes the Swedish textile industry an industry for the future.

Smart Textiles is a unique research environment, offering eve- rything from research on fiber technology to aesthetics: a re- search area that has no peer in the Nordic countries. Smart Textiles creates opportunities for the industry to develop new materials, fibers and processes that can be used to meet futu- re demands for new solutions and green products.

What characterizes the success of the Smart Textiles Ini- tiative is a clear view of the objective, namely promoting the creation of new businesses, new jobs and new, innovative textile products. In order to succeed, businesses, research- ers and other players have to dedicate themselves to working together. Research and development of smart textiles create unique opportunities for Sweden. Today, 60,000 people work in the Swedish textile industry and Swedish textile busines- ses employ many more in other parts of the world. The export value of the Swedish textile industry amounted to around 19 billion SEK in 2012.

In this magazine you are given the opportunity to read more about the exciting journey of Smart Textiles, its projects and co-workers. Smart Textiles know no boundaries!

Ola Toftegaard, Chairman of the Smart Textiles Steering Group.

CONTENTS

LIGHTER THAN AIR, STRONGER THAN KRYPTONITE .

 

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8-9

BORÅS STUDENT IN ITALIAN VOGUE

 

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10-11

MEJT

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10-11

   

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10-11

 

OLA SALO IN KNITTED COPPER KNIGHT OF TRUE RESEARCH

SMART

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TEXTILES

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12-15

16-17

 

CLOTHING FOR EXTREME CONDITIONS

 

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18

 

TEXTILE REINFORCEMENT LIGHTENS THE WORK LOAD

 

19

 

A

SMARTER CATWALK

 

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20-23

 

SMART TEXTILES TECHNOLOGY LAB

Electrically conductive fibers, interactive textiles, textile integrated medical electronics, textile acoustics,

phase-change fibers, textile photonics. Taste the words; these are some of the research areas

24-28

FEWER VISITS FOR HEART PATIENTS SHIRT RECHARGES YOUR CELL

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28

28

INVISIBLE HELMET SOON TO BE SMART TEXTILE

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29

SMART TEXTILES PROTOTYPE FACTORY

Full-scale labs with top competence, creativity and networking in an open, innovative environment. This is center is the obvious place to go to realize ideas and for development through prototype

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30-35

. QUALITY OF LIFE IN A DRESS

THE RELUCTANT BORÅSER

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36-39

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THE FEELING OF NOT HAVING TO BE EMBARRASSED

 

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41

WOVEN ELECTRODES PROTECT PRETERM BABIES

 

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CLONED FROGS ON GALA-DRESS

 

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42

 

LADY GAGA IN IRONIC FURS

 

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43

 

. RECURRING PATTERNS

MODEINK

. THE IMPOSSIBLE IS ONLY A CHALLENGE

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46-49

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44-45

 

SMART TEXTILES DESIGN LAB

Smart Textiles Design Lab turns textile traditions and concepts upside down through experimental research on new, expressive materials and construc-

tion methods

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50-55

. SMART TEXTILES SHOWROOM

MISSION POSSIBLE

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56-59

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60-61

HIDDEN SMART TEXTILES ON THE CATWALK

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EXPLORER OF TEXTILE INNOVATION

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62-63

64-67

 

. KNITTED BLOOD VESSEL TAKES SHAPE

 

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68

 

TEXTILE DISK WILL INCREASE MOBILITY

 

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69

 

A

TEXTILE THAT EXPANDS BLOOD VESSELS

 

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69

 

MANY WHO VISITED BORÅS WERE NEVER HERE

 

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70-75

 

THE DUTCH CONNECTION

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76-79

 

RECYCLED WASTE BECOMES NEW TEXTILE MATERIALS IKEA BELIEVES IN THE POWER OF INNOVATION

81

80-81

. SMART TEXTILES PROJECTS

TEXTILE FASHION CENTER

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82-85

86-89

SMART TEXTILES STEERING GROUP

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90-91

LIGTHER THAN AIR, STRONGER THAN KRYPTONITE Race bikes, golf clubs, F1 cars, airplanes, car bumpers,
LIGTHER THAN AIR, STRONGER THAN KRYPTONITE Race bikes, golf clubs, F1 cars, airplanes, car bumpers,
LIGTHER THAN AIR, STRONGER THAN KRYPTONITE Race bikes, golf clubs, F1 cars, airplanes, car bumpers,
LIGTHER THAN AIR, STRONGER THAN KRYPTONITE Race bikes, golf clubs, F1 cars, airplanes, car bumpers,
LIGTHER THAN AIR, STRONGER THAN KRYPTONITE Race bikes, golf clubs, F1 cars, airplanes, car bumpers,

LIGTHER THAN AIR, STRONGER THAN KRYPTONITE Race bikes, golf clubs, F1 cars, airplanes, car bumpers, snowboards, sailboat masts or hockey sticks. The echoes of the creation of an exciting innovation for carbon fiber materials will resound in many places. PAGES 8-9

KNIGHT OF TRUE RESEARCH

– I’m proud of the fact that there’s no use at all for the

things we do, Lars Hallnäs says with an unexpected, mischievous smile. Lars is a Professor in Design at The Swedish School of Textiles and although the School itself does not require research to be useful, he is also the Head of the Smart Textiles Design Lab and initiator of the entire Smart Textiles Initiative, the main idea of which is to work with applied design research. PAGES 12-15

THE IMPOSSIBLE IS ONLY A CHALLENGE

– I want to be the first! Mons Huygens is 5,500 meters

high and the tallest mountain on the Moon. It is only a matter of time until someone climbs it and puts up a flag on the summit, says Renata Chlumska. It would be marvelous if I was that someone. PAGES 46-49

SMART TEXTILES HIDDEN ON THE CATWALK Designer Nhu Duong always strives to explore new materials. Together with Smart Textiles, she developed trailblazing creations for the catwalk at Stockholm Fashion Week 2012. PAGES 62-63

KNITTED BLOOD VESSEL TAKES SHAPE Within a year after having had bypass surgery, one third of the patients suffer another blockage of the blood vessel. It is hoped that Ygraft, a uniquely designed textile blood vessel, will solve this problem. PAGE 68

Lighter than air stronger than Kryptonite

Race bikes, golf clubs, F1 cars, airplanes, car bumpers, snowboards, sailboat masts or hockey sticks.

The echoes of the creation of an exciting innovation for carbon fiber materials will resound in many places. This is no secret

to Nandan Khokar, who is a Professor in Textile Technology for

Composite Materials at The Swedish School of Textiles but who has his roots in India. He is an internationally renowned

pioneer in 3D Weaving, Tape Weaving and Noobing processes, which are used in the manufacturing of advanced carbon fiber reinforcements by the companies Biteam och Oxeon.

Dr Nandan Khokar’s research was eventually developed into

a business concept and in 2003 laid the foundation for the

Borås-based company Oxeon, which since has become a lea- ding player in the industry. Despite the financial crisis, the business has grown rapidly over the past few years and in 2010, Oxeon received the DI Gasell Award as the fastest growing business in Sweden.

One cannot complain Oxeon’s customers fail to distinguish themselves. All of the teams who have won in F1 over the past few years use Oxeon’s materials, which have become all but standard materials today because they are ultralight and super strong. The reigning America’s Cup champion Oracle is a satisfied customer. As is the winning team of the Tour de France.

The list of collaborations around extreme requirements on strength and low weight is long and customers are found all over the globe, in North America, Asia and Europe. Oxeon continues to expand into new business areas, including e.g. the space, automotive and aviation industries, as well as the marine world.

PHOTO:

OXEON.

The list of collaborations around extreme requirements on strength and low weight is long and customers are found all over the globe, in North America, Asia and Europe.

on strength and low weight is long and customers are found all over the globe, in
on strength and low weight is long and customers are found all over the globe, in
on strength and low weight is long and customers are found all over the globe, in

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1 BORÅS STUDENT IN ITALIAN VOUGE

Ida Klamborn has received a lot of attention for her all red graduation collection. She won the ”Italian Fabric Award” in the Italian fashion competition MittelModa and her design has been displayed in both Vogue and Elle.

PHOTO: Isa Jacob.

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Did she come up with the idea of hidden pockets on the island in Survivor? Susanne Rittedal Söderblom has designed a belt with a holder for the cellphone in a material that

protects the body from radiation. The result of her collaboration with Smart Textiles has now been marketed and allows you to carry your cellphone both neatly and safely.

www.mejt.se

PHOTO: Henrik Bengtsson.

3 OLA SALO IN KNITTED COPPER

For the recording of the Swedish version of The Voice, the stylist borrowed garments from Josefin Strid, a former student at The Swedish School of Textiles. And among the borrowed garments, her knitted copper pants. Ola Salo, who was one of the participants in the show, fell in love with them and wore them during his appearance. Here, shown during the Stockholm

Fashion Week. PHOTO: Kristian Loveborg.

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KNIGHT OF TRUE RESEARCH

TEXT: ELOF IVARSSON. PHOTO: IDA LINDSTRÖM. MATHEMATICAL FORMULA AND MUSIC:

LARS HALLNÄS.

– I’m proud of the fact that there’s no use at all for the things we do, Lars Hallnäs says with an unexpected,

mischievous smile. Then he flushes and takes it all back.

It is not true and you must not write that in the article, he insists. However, the statement speaks of his attitude, his strong opinions and the burning passion he harbors under- neath a calm, intellectual surface. Basic research and edu- cation must be defended with tooth and nail and prevented from being watered down by compromises and commercial concerns.

Lars is a Professor in Design at The Swedish School of Texti- les and although the School itself does not require research to be useful, he is also the head of the Smart Textiles Design Lab and initiator of the entire Smart Textiles Initiative, the main idea of which is to work with applied design research. Contrary to his ambivalence towards utilitarian research, which may appear somewhat odd in this light, Lars is convin- ced the professional role of the textile designer is about to face a radical change. – With changes on our doorstep, depth of knowledge is more important than ever. There are so many things the textile designers of the future will have to learn and that is the re- ason the education needs to be continuously updated, says Lars Hallnäs. For us to be able to do so in a sensible way, the research organization of the department must function properly.

He thinks the most important channels between the busi- ness community and academia are the obvious ones, e.g.

that’s is only natural for design students with positive ex- periences from the University to return to it to make use of the resources and knowledge available there. The field of smart textiles draws a lot of attention today. A double- edged sword in Lars’s opinion.

– It is very difficult to make predictions about the future and

we should not do so lightly. Right now, many things revolve around technology, but the consequences of this develop- ment on the field of textile design has yet to be determined, Lars says.

– We must allow this to take time, results do not always

arrive overnight. And not always from where we expect them to. The three branches of research in logics I found le- ast useful for practical purposes twenty years ago are all of them used in Wall Street today to control stock trade robots, Lars continues.

It is possible to draw a parallel to the artificial intelligen- ce hype of the mid-1980s. Vast amounts of money and ex- pectations were invested in AI, but when the results did not arrive as quickly as they had been promised, investors ran out of steam. Despite this, we see the results of that rese- arch in iPads and advanced cellphones. It may take some time, why all involved parties must be patient and conti- nue to make investments in order to see progress, is Lars’s message. »

Anyone who imagined a Professor to be vain, dressing in connection to textile design is

Anyone who imagined a Professor to be vain, dressing in

connection to textile design is not exactly crystal clear from

black and with that avant-garde look, will surely be surprised

a

layman’s perspective.

when meeting Lars in person. He looks more like a typical

It’s not all that strange. Developing a computer language

professor and his personality is very far from the stereoty-

is

primarily about design, says Lars Hallnäs.

pes we face in e.g. Project Runway. But then, his background is quite unexpected, as well. Lars hasn’t designed a single garment or textile in his life.

He explains that mathematics is largely about creating worlds of ideas for the mathematician to explore. Thus, ha-

He started his artistic career in the late 1960s by composing music at the Royal College of Music in Stockholm and the Malmö Academy of Music. Since then, Lars has been active as a composer of artistic music. The sound of this genre lies far from that of popular music. He sees himself more as a free artist than a musician. However, Lars’s career chang- ed direction abruptly as he began studying theoretical phi- losophy at Stockholm University. When he was awarded a Doctor’s Degree in Mathematical Logics in 1983, few be- lieved that knowledge would be of any practical use. – A few of my colleagues laughed and asked me what I would do for a living, Lars reminisces. When I returned to the department of philosophy a year later, I was the one laughing.

The fifth generation of computers had just arrived and mathematical logics happens to be the foundation of compu- ter science. All of a sudden, people with expertise in this ob- scure subject were sought after high and low. Lars ended up at Chalmers University of Technology in Gothenburg, where he worked with computer science for eighteen years. The

ving an ability to visualize ideas is extremely important when working with higher mathematics. The ability to write for- mulas that can carry the visualization across time and space

is mainly about graphic design and good aesthetics.

– If you talk to a mathematician, you will often hear him say that although a specific formula may be valid, he doesn’t care for it because it’s so ugly, Lars says.

At the turn of the millennium, a wave of exciting research in interaction design reached the world from the new Me- dia Lab at the prestigious American university MIT. The point was that design and art had become increasingly important as commercial factors and Apple was only one example of this. Once again, Lars was in the right place, with the right knowledge profile, at the right time when the Swedish Foundation for Strategic Research started the PLAY studio in Gothenburg. At the studio, he worked with all things digital that were considered play and games rather than ”IT at work”. After two years it was time to move on. At the PLAY studio, Lars had met a textile desig- ner from The Swedish School of Textiles, Linda Worbin. Lars wanted to move to a more artistic field of work, closer to

”If you talk to a mathematician, you will often hear him say that although a specific formula may be valid, he does not care for it because it is so ugly.”

where he had began his career at the Malmö Academy of Mu-

sic, why he found The Swedish School of Textiles appealing. – My family didn’t exactly love the idea! My wife, who does

a lot of weaving herself, found it difficult to see of what use

I would be at the School, Lars says. In my view, all artistic work requires design. And vice versa. Also, I brought with me my conviction to prepare students for a professional career. As a composer, I have learned that you can’t fake

a single thing if you expect an orchestra to play your music. Professionalism is ab