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ISSN 1853-9610
N55 APR / MAY 2012 MENDOZA`S FREE MAGAZINE
www. wi ne- r epubl i c. com
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WINE
Hey Presto!..................................................................................10
Wishlist .......................................................................................14
The Winery Guide ........................................................................28
BARS
Bars & Events ..............................................................................26
RESTAURANTS
Dining Out ..................................................................................30
MAPS & TIPS
Useful Information.....................................................................32
Map of Maipu and Chacras de Coria..........................................32
Map of Mendoza City Center.......................................................34
CONTENTS
Issue April - May 2012 | ISSN 1853-9610
10,000 Copies
Published by Seven Colors S.A.
Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3. Mendoza, Argentina
Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613 E-mail: amanda@wine-republic.com
Editor: Amanda Barnes
Editorial Director: Charlie OMalley
Publicidad: Ana Laura Aguilera (155 018 874), Mariana Gmez Rus
publicidad@wine-republic.com, mariana@wine-republic.com
Design: Mara Laura Gmez lgomezrus@gmail.com
Printer: Artes Grficas UNION
Contributing Authors: Amanda Barnes, Gwynne Hogan, Charlie OMalley, Molly Hetz.
Cover Illustration: Donough OMalley, www.pencilrobot.net
Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic.
www.wine-republic.com
CREDITS
NEWS REPUBLIC
Super Tram....................................................................................6
New Leaf.......................................................................................6
No More Boring Sundays...............................................................6
Expanding the Manzano................................................................6
MEETING MENDOZA
The Big Apple................................................................................8
A Guide to Art in Mendoza..........................................................16
Street Art in Mendoza.................................................................18
Shop Till You Drop......................................................................21
Homegrown Art...........................................................................22
UNESCO sites in Argentina..........................................................24
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NEWS REPUBLIC
BY CHARLIE OMALLEY AND GWYNNE HOGAN
SUPER TRAM
Its been 2 years in the making and a decade of planning and
wrangling. Finally, from the 1st of April, Mendoza will have its first
passenger train since the city lost its train system 15 years ago. Known as
the Metrotranvia, the fire engine red carriages will run from Belgrano
Station in the city center to Maipu in the southeast suburbs, covering
12km and 15 stops. It will do much to open up the city district of
Godoy Cruz and ease increasing traffic congestion in the city center.
It will also make the wineries of Maipu much more accessible for
visitors. With any luck, the line will eventually be extended into Lujan
de Cuyo. Wine Republic wishes the Metrotranvia every success.
NEW LEAF
Familia Zuccardi have been serving steak to discerning tourists for
years now and its Casa del Visitante is one of the most mouth watering
and tasty winery restaurant experiences in Mendoza. Now this famous
family enterprise has shown just how enterprising it is by opening a
second restaurant amongst its vines and olive groves. Pan y Oliva is
100% inspired by the noble green berry from the biblical olive tree. It
is located next to Zuccardis olive house and has a relaxed, laidback
ambience that sits well with the light and elegant menu of delicious
tapas and imaginative salads. www.familiazuccardi.com
NO MORE BORING SUNDAYS
Wandering the streets of Mendoza on a Sunday could have you
thinking the city has been evacuated because of a yellow fever
epidemic. Its more like a red meat fever as the locals flock to every
patch of roadside greenery to set up deck chairs and eat traditional
family asado (barbecue). Such urban abandonment can have the
average visitor feeling, well, abandoned. Not so anymore, as the
Sheraton has stepped in with a Sunday brunch that offers all day
eating and drinking for $165 AR per person whilst sitting 17 floors in
the sky with what must be the best view of the city and mountains.
A sumptuous buffet is laid on with everything from bacon and eggs
to your ubiquitous asado. There is even a crche and child minder for
those who want a break from the kids. Just remember brunch actually
starts at lunch time 1pm. To book call 441 5500.
EXPANDING THE MANZANO
Manzano Historico (literally the Historical Apple Tree) is a protected
nature reserve at the far end of the Uco Valley running up into the Andes.
It is ripe with climbing, trekking, fishing, paragliding and horseback
riding possibilities. Recently a new law was enacted that will protect
314,600 more hectares of land from development, particularly against
mining (which is vehemently disliked by most Mendocinos). On March
10th, in celebration of the new law, Tupungato Mayor Martin Aveiro and
a large pack of friends, journalists and gauchos set off on a two-day
horseback ride into the heart of Manzano, to raise the Argentine flag.
The Wine Republic team were invited along and together we braved
rain, harsh wind, traditional song and dance, woman-hungry cowboys
and seriously sore bums. On our way back down through the sublime
and treacherous cliffs and passes, we felt as one with the mountains
and proud to be part of its delicate ecosystem. That was until a gaucho
in traditional garb plodding along beside us hurled a plastic coke bottle
off the side of the cliff. Humm.
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You have to love somewhere that is named after an apple tree.
Argentinas favorite liberator and hero, General San Martin, apparently
sought shade under an old apple tree here and so the area was named
after that servile sapling. Not only does it have apple trees, but this
nature reserve is full of history and ripe for adventure activities.
THE HISTORY
This is the place where San Martin rallied his flagging troops and
inspired them to fight the Spanish in a bid for independence. In a
cunning plan he told the native Indians that his planned route and
attack troops would be attacking through this old trade route. As
he suspected, the natives sold out and informed the Spanish of his
planned route. So the Spanish duly prepared to fight back on this
front, but in fact San Martin used the Manzano Historico for a decoy
attack, and actually attacked full force from the Uspallata route. They
won the battle and the rest is Argentine independence history.
The Ruta Sanmartiniana has always remained an important gateway
to Chile, with the stunning moon-like landscaped border named El
Portillo (or the gate). This was a cattle route for hundreds of years
and you can still see sun-drenched skulls and bones. Gauchos have
crossed this part of the Andes for centuries, and they still do
WHAT TO DO NOWADAYS
Ruta Sanmartiniana. Ruta Sanmartiniana is still a big tourist attraction
here and many want to follow in the footsteps of San Martin, and also
of Charles Darwin (whose crossing here helped formulate his thoughts
on evolution). It can be covered by foot, horseback, dirt bike or 4x4.
Trekking. There are a dozen or so trekking routes here that can last
from a couple hours to camping overnight at the refuges along the
way. One of the most popular is next to the Cajon de Arenales where
there is a tall waterfall, from snowmelt, which you can walk behind
and take a (very) refreshing dip in the pool at the bottom. Bring your
passport if you are thinking about heading up to El Portillo - you have
to check out with the guards before walking to Chile.
Horseriding. Down in the Manzano Historico you can organize a
horseride with some of the local gauchos who will take you up the
adventurous dirt path, through the valleys and alongside the snaking
river. Horseriding here is a real delight with different terrains to amble
along and lots of adventurous river crossings. It will set you back
around 200 pesos a day.
Climbing. The big attraction is Arenales - the second most important
climbing wall in South America. Attracting lots of international
climbers each year, this area has many different rock faces to climb
of varying intensity - the longest of which is 500m and takes you
to an altitude of well over 4000m. These are stunning climbs with
condors sweeping around you. You can do bouldering here too, but
the best climbs are with ropes - make sure to get a guide if you dont
know what you are doing.
Fishing. A gushing river which winds its way through the valley keeps
flyfishers happy with brown trout and beautiful scenery to while away
some precious rod time. Sit alongside all the picnickers from Tunuyan
and see if you can catch the big one.
Paragliding. For adrenaline junkies, this is the second most popular
spot for paragliding in Mendoza (after Cerro Arco). Jumping off of
Cerro El Manzano gives you a sweeping view down the valley and
over the lush countryside and vineyards of Tunuyan.
Sightseeing. If you want to stay down at normal altitude, visiting the
Manzano Historico on a Sunday can be a perfectly pleasant trip in itself.
With a large wooden sculpture of Christ set against the mountains, a
large monument to San Martin, two museums on local history and an
artisan market in the afternoon, this is a nice spot to visit.
TUNUYAN IS HOME TO SOME OF ARGENTINAS BEST WINERIES, BUT MOST TOURISTS AND VISITORS
DONT STAY FOR MORE THAN A DAY. AMANDA BARNES EXPLORES TUNUYANS MANZANO HISTORICO
AND FINDS OUT THAT THERE IS A LOT MORE TO THIS ATTRACTIVE CORNER OF THE UCO VALLEY
THE BIG APPLE
Photo by Gwynne Hogan
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THE BIG APPLE
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I guess naively I always thought wine was very simple to make:
pick some grapes, let them ferment and hey presto! You have wine.
I figured it was probably discovered in some backwater farmland in
Ancient Greece sometime when a forgetful farmer left his basket of
picked grapes out in the sun too long and under the watchful eye
of an imperturbable goat, the juice gradually turned into wine - a
discovery to the delight of the Greek family that Sunday afternoon and
to future wine drinkers around the world.
How wine was actually discovered is a mystery, but what we do
know is that people have been making it since at least 6000BC in
Georgia. The oldest winery found so far dates back to 4000BC in
Armenia and has relics of wine presses and fermentation vats. If they
were that advanced 6,000 years ago, chances are the discovery,with
my goat as the first eye witness, was long before then. Something
we perhaps neglect to realise though is that
winemakers have also been adding things to
their wine for a couple of thousand years too.
We are often misled to think that 100 years
ago, everything was natural - there were no
chemicals added to food or drinks and that
using additives is a nasty development since
the chemical revolution and McDonalisation
of society. In fact, winemakers have always
used additives in wine - it was developed
simultaneously as an integral part of
winemaking. Even the Romans would throw
in lots of sulphur to their wine.
WINE IS NOT JUST FERMENTED
GRAPE JUICE
One of the biggest clues that wine is not
just fermented grape juice is when you see
labels on bottles stating that they are vegan,
or even vegetarian. What? Go back a minute.
Vegan? Vegetarian? Why wouldnt it be?
Animal products in wine?! This is where
you read a bit further and see: contains
milk or contains eggs which can be pretty
confusing for new wine drinkers who thought
they were just drinking grape juice.
Although legally no country has to specify
ingredients in wine, some producers/
importers/buyers are a bit more conscious
of those people with allergies or ethical
scruples, and so list ingredients like milk
and eggs.
Most of these non-vegan or non-vegetarian products come in at the
fining stage.
To make a wine clearer you sometimes need to add proteins so that
all the tannins stick to them and fall out of the wine. Here is where
winemakers might throw in milk proteins, egg whites, gelatin or even
the rather unappetizing addition of fish bladders.
It may sound disagreeable, but this is only the beginning of Pandoras
box of wine tricks. Most winemakers love to tell you that they do very
little in the winery. The fact is they do quite a lot, so I decided to go
to an expert to find out what exactly.
David Kingsbury has his own company, Gransud, which supplies the
wine industry in Argentina and Chile with winemaking products and
light machinery.We have a portfolio of over 200 products, David
told me. I guess on average a winemaker would add between 10 and
AMANDA BARNES TAKES A LOOK AT THE WINEMAKERS MAGIC BOX OF TRICKS.
IIlustrations by Donough OMalley www.pencilrobot.net
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30 different products to a wine in the process. But whats important
to remember is that most of these dont end up in the bottle - they
fall out of the wine through fining and clarifying. Even though we add
things, wine is still well over 99% fermented grape juice.
Most of the products all come in powders which are used in small
quantities and dissolved in water. Although the quantities might
appear small and fairly insignificant, if you dont use any additives it
can make the wine making process quite hard to get off the ground.
Take for example the very first stage of winemaking - fermentation.
Grapes come with natural yeast on their skins, which should be
enough to ferment the juice on its own. However winemakers need
to add yeast to ensure complete fermentation and have more control
over the process. Otherwise it can get stuck and stop fermenting
half way through.
David has a handful of anecdotes of panicked winemakers calling at all
times of the day and night with stuck fermentations when their precious
50,000 litres of juice is just not turning into wine. Using industrial yeast
is the most reliable way to stop this happening, keep the risk low and
help the winemaker keep a little bit more hair on his head.
A WINEMAKER ADDS BETWEEN 10
AND 30 DIFFERENT PRODUCTS TO A WINE
There are over 100 yeasts on the market and each yeast (which is
all microflora, or different bacteria) has very different characteristics,
changing the alcohol levels, aromas and flavors of the wine.
Between using different yeasts you could have anything up to 2%
difference in alcohol levels, said David, so its quite important what
yeast you use. Flicking through Gran Suds product booklet, it reads
a lot like a nerdy cookbook (think Heston Blumental or Ferran Adria)
or a contemporary guide to alchemy. Spider diagrams point out the
different profiles for each product, and there is even a check list for
which yeasts work better with which wines. Not that different from
adding spices to your frying pan or baking powder to your cakes.
Everything you add can quite significantly change the outcome of the
wine - this is where the idea of a winemaker as an artist or perhaps
magician comes in, they craft their wine by all the ingredients and
processes that they use.
Everyone knows about yeast though, and it doesnt hold too much
taboo. The products which always turn up in sensationalist journalism
are the use of kitty litter, African tree sap and long and unintelligible
additives such as carboxy methyl carbonate.
David blows away the magicians smoke for me on these three: kitty
litter is referring to Bentonite (a main component for cat litter) which
is added to white wine to remove the proteins left after fermentation
which can make the wine hazy; African tree sap (or Gum Arabic)
actually comes powered and is used to stabilize the colour of the
wine; and carboxyblahblahblahblah is used for tartrate stability
which although sounding a bit nasty it is also the main component
for toothpaste.
ALL OF THESE ADDITIVES ARE VERY LEGAL,
AND ACTUALLY QUITE BORING
All of these additives are very legal, and when they are explained they
are actually quite boring. I want to know the winemakers naughty
secrets, and so I speak to a couple winemakers off the record. They
let me in on a trick of the trade. Water.
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Sounds pure enough, but actually the addition of water is in theory not
allowed in Argentina. The large majority of winemakers do it anyway.
A big problem in the warmer New World wine regions (and due to
climate change even the Old World ones) is alcohol. If winemakers
here picked grapes at their optimum level and didnt correct the
alcohol level, we would be getting wines of around 17% on the
shelves (legally wine has to be under 16%). Some winemakers told
me that they might take up to a third of the juice out and replace it
with water, but never in an attempt to boost volumes, just to lower
the alcohol. Winemakers in some countries use a code word of Jesus
units to talk about how much water they have added (referring to the
miracle of turning water into wine). The authorities turn a blind eye to
adding water as practically everyone does it.
What the authorities cant turn a blind eye to anymore is adding
antibiotics to wine which caused a scandal in 2009 when the German
authorities caught an Argentine wine producer adding antibiotics
to the wine, and impounded the 100,000 contaminated bottles.
Winemakers were adding them to kill the bacteria and make the
wine more manageable and although it doesnt actually
have any health risk attached, the EU wine rules
state it is not allowed. Perhaps rather odd as the
exact same antibiotic is allowed to be added to
smoked sausages and cheese.
But no wine additive scandal tops what
happened in Italy in 1986. A producer
added toxic methanol to increase the
alcohol in his low alcohol wine, a fatal
error which killed 23 people.
Other famous health risks of recent
years include concerns about BSE
from gelatin used in wine, and more
famously the use of bulls blood. Bulls
blood (or of any cattle) was used for
centuries to clarify wine but was
banned in the EU in 1997 because
of BSE risks, although for a couple
consequent years wine was still
being found with traces of blood in
it. That kind of puts the egg whites
into perspective.
IN MEDIEVAL GERMANY THE
PENALTY FOR SELLING FAKE
WINE WENT FROM BRANDING
TO BEATING THE CRIMINAL
TO DEATH OR HANGING
However this is still monkey play
compared to the types of wine
fraud that happened centuries
ago. Old wine recipes not
only called for the addition of
blood and sulphur but other
ingredients such as mustard,
ashes and lead. There are
records from Roman times about
producers making corrupt or fraudulent wine, and in medieval
Germany the penalty for selling fake wine went from branding to
beating the criminal to death or hanging. It was only in 1889 that a
country (France) first legally defined wine as fermented grape juice.
Who knows what went into it before.
But rest assured, nowadays the wine world has gone the other
direction. A wine cannot be clearer or more
sterile than it is now, comments David. I
would like to think that people can
believe that wine is a living product
and that it changes colour and there
are by-products. But we are probably
not going to go back to those days.
We used to be accepting of drinking
a wine with sediment or crystals at the
bottom of a bottle, but those days are
no longer - we expect to buy a brand and
have the same product every time. One of
the reasons so many different products are
added to the simple grape juice is to fine and
clarify the wine because consumers demand a
perfectly clear product.
The UK is one of the most sophisticated
wine markets in the world, but perhaps
due to the fact it is not much of a wine-
producing country, there is little
tolerance of blemished wine.
This trend is spreading across
the globe and so the demand for
completely sanitized wine, and thus
the box of magic tricks, gets bigger
and bigger.
If we dont want to see a white rabbit
listed on our wine ingredients in the
future, we need to get over the fact that
wine is a living product - warts and all.
GRANSUD
David Kingsbury is an Australian
winemaker who has travelled the world
making wine in places as diverse as
Bordeaux and Brazil making wine in
countries as diverse as Bordeaux and
Brazil. He came to Argentina in 2001 as
a consultant winemaker and has been
here since, now acting as CEO of Gransud,
providing winemaking accessories to
wineries in Chile and Argentina. For more
information visit www.gransud.com
IIlustrations by Donough OMalley www.pencilrobot.net
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TORRONTS, SERRERA, 2011, $35AR
This elegant Mendocinean torronts from the small family winery has notes of peach
and flowers with a good acidity for food pairings, and it is great value to boot!
SAUVIGNON BLANC, PULENTA ESTATE, 2011, $65
This Lujan wine is just brimming with lime and asparagus, one of the best Sauvignon
Blancs in the country. Always the earliest to harvest, this years vintage is set to be
a goodie too.
SINGLE VINEYARD MALBEC, ALTA VISTA, 2010, $200
This is a classic Malbec from Mendoza made from the French terroir specialists.
Always one of our favourites, its an inky wine with attractive plum notes.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON, KAIKEN ULTRA, 2009, $95
This Chilean-owned winery really knows how to make their Cab - a big concentrated
wine with nice oak and sweet tannins.
MALBEC ARGENTINO, CATENA ZAPATA, 2007, $630
Still reigning supreme as one of the best Malbecs of the country, Catena Zapatas
icon wine topped our 2011 tasting with its rich fruit with coffee and vanilla.
GRAN ESTIRPE, CLOS DE CHACRAS, 2006, $145
This Cabernet Sauvignon, Mablec and Merlot blend is great value from this boutique
winery in Chacras. Rounded and plummy its one to mull over.
WISHLIST
HERE ARE SOME OF OUR FAVOURITE WINES IN MENDOZA AT THE MOMENT.
CHECK OUT OUR 2011 WINE TASTING RESULTS ON WWW.WINE-REPUBLIC.COM
For more wine recommendations visit www.wine-republic.com
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young age of 33 and now the house, which the
family donated to the local government as a
museum in 1951, has the largest collection of
Faders works as well as a changing exhibition
of different artists and a beautiful sculpture
garden. Museo de Bellas Artes, San Martn
3651, Mayor Drummond, Lujn de Cuyo
(261) 496 022. Tue - Fri 8.30am- 6pm. Sat
& Sun 2pm - 7pm.
Back in the city though there are other ways to
see great art, although not in your conventional
gallery. One of the best ways to really get to
know the local art scene is by visiting some
artists workshops. Make sure you call and
book ahead but there are a handful of artists in
or around the city centre that happily welcome
you in to their lairs. If you want to get a feel for
latin american style art, Lucia Coria is your
woman. Tucked away in a bright red house
in the quinta neighbourhood is her workshop
and home. The workshop is a colourful space
covered top to toe in her vibrant paintings and
large dresses. Deeply feminine, her work has
a very latin feel to it (think Frida Kahlo) and
features many brooding self-portraits. One
series is called women drinking and portrays
different self-portraits of those introspective
moments that we all know too well, when
drinking a glass of wine alone. To visit Lucia,
call her on (261) 438 0707 or 15 510 4745.
www.luciacoria.blogspot.com
On your tourist map (or the one at the back of
this nifty copy of Wine Republic) you will see
two galleries marked in Mendoza: the MAMM
and the ECA. Is that it? Two art galleries for
Argentinas third largest city? The answer is no,
but finding other places to appreciate paint and
canvas is not an easy feat here. Both the MAMM
(Plaza Independencia) and ECA (9 de Julio
and Gutierrez) are nice modern art galleries
- their exhibitions rotate regularly, they have
quiet and clean spaces and host lots of different
artists from around Argentina and South
America. However your artistic route of the city
will be over in less than an hour if you just go to
these two. One way to extend your route around
town is with the five star hotels - the Park Hyatt
and Diplomatic both have pleasing changing
exhibitions, but the hotel art prize undoubtedly
goes to the Sheraton with its vast collection of
art on the ground floor and on its top floor (with
a great view over the city to boot).
Further out of the city in Lujan is a real
treasure - Casa Fader. This old mansion was
home to a wealthy Argentine family who hired
the services of French painter Fernando
Fader to paint some mural in the hallway and
swimming pool room in 1906. Fader soon fell
in love with the daughter of the family, Adela,
and they married and lived there together.
Fader became well known in Argentina as a
Post-Impressionist painter but died at the
MENDOZA DOESNT HAVE THE BEAUTIFUL ART GALLERIES OF BUENOS AIRES, IT DOESNT HAVE THE SERPENTINE LIBRARIES
THAT INSPIRED BORGES TO WRITE AND IT DOESNT HAVE THE SAME CLIQUE OF BROODING CREATIVES THAT GATHER IN
THE CAPITALS DARK AND DEVILISHLY SEDUCTIVE COFFEE SHOPS. BUENOS AIRES IS DEFINITELY THE ARTY-EST CITY IN
ARGENTINA. BUT DONT WRITE MENDOZA OFF JUST YET, BECAUSE WHAT IT DOES HAVE WHEN IT COMES TO THE WORLD
OF ART, IS A HOT ART COMMUNITY BUBBLING UNDER THE SURFACE AND WAITING TO BE TAPPED BY ART ENTHUSIASTS
AND CURIOUS VISITORS ALIKE. AMANDA BARNES GETS OUT HER PICK AXE TO BREAK INTO MENDOZAS ART SCENE
A GUIDE TO ART IN MENDOZA
LUCIA CORIA
MARTIN VILLALONGA
FERNANDO JEREB
A couple blocks up the road is another taller
that should be visited by those who have a
love of eccentric artist characters - that of
Martin Villalonga. Technically a very good
artist, Martin teaches in Mendoza as well as
working through a myriad of different styles
in his own time. He has tried just about every
type of art and most of it sits on canvases
stacked around his house but you can also
take back a more portable piece of art in the
form of his entertaining wine sketches which
are on sale at different wine shops around
the city. To visit Martin call him on (261)
15 653 8993.
The quinta section is a hub of local artists
and among the streets you will find dozens
of different artists workshops including
Fernando Jerebs (see page 22) beautiful
studio - an essential stop on the taller
route. If you want to see lots of different
artists in one space, Santangelo Galeria de
Arte has a good rotating collection of some
of Mendozas cornerstone artists. This tiny
space is packed with photos, sculptures,
and paintings of all different genres and the
gallerys director Eduardo Jacky can guide
you through the pieces (including lots of
wine themed ones) in English. Santangelo,
Olascoaga 631, Tues - Fri, 10-12:30 and
5:30- 9pm, Sat 10 -12:30. (261) 425 5205.
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Photos of grafitti in Mendoza by Gwynne Hogan and Amanda Barnes
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The best kept secret though is in the bohemian
arty suburb of Bermejo. Just 5kms outside of
the city, in leafy Guaymallen near the aiport,
this neighbourhood feels a world apart and
puts you right into the campo (countryside).
No surprise then that this is where lots
of Mendozas artists like to work on their
brushstroke.
Not only is it home to one of the regions big
granddaddys of art, Luis Quesada (see page
22), but also to another prominent golden
oldie in the art world and an absolute master
of sculpture - Roberto Rosas (page 22). With
a house that screams pure fantasy from the
outset, ringing the bell of his tall metal gate
feels a bit like a Tim Burton filmset. But the
intriguing world of Rosas doesnt end there,
rather it is just the beginning. Huge scultpures
of women, angels and demons beckon you in
and reveal his house and workshop, which in
itself is a work of art. Inside is a museum of
his quirky and enchanting style with over a
thousand pieces adorning walls and stands.
His gorgeous sculpture garden is the cherry on
the cake. This is surely one of the art must-
sees in Argentina. Call to visit on (261) 451
1605, entrance is $30 pesos.
Another great sculptor around the corner is
third generation carpenter Miguel Galdolfo.
One of the most influential wood workers
in Mendoza, he is responsible for some of
the gorgeous furniture in different wineries
including Monteviejo, Sophenia and The
Vines, but more impressive are his conceptual
sculptures. Geometrical in nature, he contorts
wood into complicated knotted structures
and colourful sculptures. Find out more
about his upcoming exhibitions on www.
miguelgandolfo.com or call for a visit on
(261) 445 6888.
Taking it
home
If you are
here visiting
Mendoza and
want to take some art home,
be patient - there is a bit of prohitivive
bureaucratic red tape to step over. In
an effort to protect Argentinas cultural
heritage, the State has made taking art
out of Argentina quite a tricky process.
You need to get permission to legally
export it, which can often take some time.
However if you are in a bit of a rush here
are some tried and tested ways around
it: a) say you bought it at an artisanal
market and it isnt worth anything, b) get
a letter from the artist saying it is a gift
(not paid for), or c) roll it up and traffic it
in your checked luggage.
Another prominent art community in Mendoza
is in Chacras de Coria. Around 20kms south of
the city centre (accessible by bus or car) this
quiet neighbourhood is filled with boutique
wineries, restaurants, bars and an arty crowd.
There are lots of artists workshops here that
are worth the visit (including Gonzalo Anton,
see page 22) but getting around can be a bit
of a nuisance without a guide. The best way to
book and visit different artists workshops is
with an art guide who has the right contacts.
Gonzalo Cuervo is an art dealer and local
oracle whose little black book of names
and numbers is at bursting point. He can
organise a personalised art tour in any of the
art communities or help put you in touch with
the right people. His closed doors restaurant,
Ituzaingo, is also a haven of art and good
music. Contact Gonzalo on (261) 15 666
5778 or cocina@ituzaingoresto.com.ar
ART IN WINERIES
There are so many reasons to visit wineries
in Mendoza: great wine, stunning views,
gourmet restaurants and some of the best art
spaces! Most wineries have a picture or two
embellishing the walls, but some have gone
all out with dedicated art galleries and spaces:
SALENTEIN. With a separate art gallery, Killka,
this is the bodega for art lovers. Out in the
Uco Valley, thousands flock here every year
to take in some good Pinot Noir and enjoy
the collection of 19th and 20th century Dutch
art and contemporary Argentine art. The
owners from Holland are art fanatics and their
permanent personal collection is an eclectic
mix nicely complimented with temporary
exhibitions of Argentine artists ranging from the
well established like Sergio Roggerone to new
talent like Sebastian Barrera. Open everyday
for visits, Ruta Provincial 89, Tunuyan.
(262) 242 9500. www.killkasalentein.com
TRIVENTO. This is the new kid on the block,
and they dont want to play by the rules. Out
in Maipu, Trivento attracts a young crowd with
their kooky events and DJ parties. With a large
performance and art space they invite local
artists to exhibit on rotation and have regular
music nights to see art en vivo. For those
who want a more hands on experience to
wine and art, Trivento have also just started a
photography workshop for visitors. Open Mon
- Sat, Ruta 60, Maipu (261) 413 7100
www.trivento.com
ZUCCARDI. Not only is there a beautiful cellar
with a gorgeous art collection in Zuccardi, but
this winery actually wants to harvest artists.
In March this year, the winery invited all the
artists that had been part of their art exhibition
over the last year to harvest grapes and, after
inspiration in the vineyard, to design their own
wine labels. In May the cosecha de artistas
will come to fruition when the artists will be
presented with their own bottles of wine with
the fruit they harvested and the labels they
designed. Open everyday, Ruta Provincial 33,
Km 7.5, Maipu (0261) 441-0000
www.familiazuccardi.com
ROBERTO ROSAS
MIGUEL GANDOLFO
21
FLORA MARIA
A quirky little shop on Espaa street, Flora Maria features the fashion
collection of owner and designer Lucia Quiroga. Quiroga specializes
in the use of bold colors and textured fabric and presents a wide
and eclectic profile of dresses, tops, and trousers. Complimenting
her collection, she includes the work from other Argentine designers
featuring a cornucopia of garments, soft leather boots and hand-
made jewellry. Flora Maria, Espaa 1029. Open 9:30-13:30 and 17-
21 Mon - Sat. Tel (261) 429 7797
NI CHICHA NI LIMONADA
Arquitect Canela decided about three years back that she was tired of
travelling to Buenos Aires in order to find household items a little out
of the ordinary. So she opened Ni Chicha Ni Limonada, a collection
of things with ordinary function but extraordinary form. Items range
from sleek and modern to knee-slappingly funny. Take a paper-towel-
holder that is a naked cook, only decent once dressed with a roll
of paper towels; or a ceramic coffee mug that looks exactly like a
cardboard to-go one. The perfect place for an unusual gift. Ni Chicha
Ni Limonada: Agustin Alvarez 17, (261) 423 5852; or Paso de los
Andes 1893 (261) 420 0481. Open Mon - Sat, 9:30am to 8:30pm.
Got to love those places that open in the siesta!
KRAAM
Of all the shops on this list, Kraam is the one that most transcends
the genre of shop. Located in a converted house on Espejo, along with
the display of clothing made by Mendocino designers, youll find a
monthly exhibit of a local artist. Each month they throw an art opening
for that months exhibition and feature a local band in the festivities.
Besides clothes and shoes for both men and women, they sell the
artwork and cds from local bands. Kraam: 659 Espejo. Open from
10:30-1:30 and 17:30 - 21:30 Mon - Sat.
ART COMES IN ALL SHAPES AND SIZES - FROM SMALL AND ACCESSIBLE TO GINORMOUS AND COMPLETELY IMPOSSIBLE!
ONE OF THE BEST WAYS TO TAKE AWAY A PIECE OF ART OR CULTURAL SOUVENIR FROM YOUR STAY IN MENDOZA IS
THROUGH THE ARTY SHOPS DOTTED AROUND THE CITY. GWYNNE HOGAN GIVES US A LOOK AT SOME OF HER FAVOURITES:
SHOP TILL YOU DROP
DIVINO TORMENTO
Located just outside Mendoza center, Divino Tormento is one of the
first design-by-owner shops in the province. Founded eight years
back, the three sisters who own it each present their own collections
of womens clothing and accessories. Garments are hand-cut and
sewn, and certain items hand-painted. The shop is located in Barrio
Bombal which is just south of the city and is often referred to as
Mendozas own version of Palmermo Soho in BA, with unique shops,
eclectic restaurants and tea houses. Divino Tormento: 9 de Julio
214. 424 1288. Mon - Fri, 10-1 and 5-9 and Sat AM.
MUTANTES
Just opened a few months back, Mutantes (Mutants) is a curious and
exciting new location for one-of-a-kind gifts, stationary and garments
for both sexes. A sibling trio of owners, Facundo and Federica are
designers while Valentina mans the ship back at the shop. Besides
featuring the collections of the two co-owners, youll encounter many
a unique item from small-scale designers and artists in Mendoza and
some from BA. My personal favorite: Facundos 3-D tee-shirts that
actually come with a pair of complimentary 3-D glasses! Mutantes:
Paso de los Andes 720. Tel. 420 0906. Mon - Sat 9:30-1:30 and 5-9.
HAY DISEO
Another collectively owned boutique featuring local designers, at Hay
Diseo youll find and bright and bold mix of mens and womens ware,
durable handbags and funky footware. The collection rotates and
changes every month, guaranteeing that youll return for another Hay
fix. If youre lucky like I was, their bewitchingly patterned, 100% cotton
undies will be on sale for 25 pesos a pop! Hay Diseo: 9 de Julio
(between Rivadavia and Montevideo). Mon - Sat, 9-1:30 and 5-9.
FLORA MARIA
NI CHICHA NI LIMONADA
MUTANTES
22
Only a year shy of his 90th birthday, Luis Quesada
is quite rightly known as one of the maestro de
los maestros (master/teacher of the masters) of
art in Mendoza. Still working as a painter, sculptor,
print artist and jewelry maker - Quesada has had a
very productive life and has been a huge influence
on different artistic movements in Argentina. As a
young boy instead of going to school one day he
decided to take a walk in the countryside. Pottering
along he found a cow hide and put himself to work
making lots of different trinkets for his family,
and there his life as an artisan and artist began.
His trademark styles have since moved from still
life paintings, to enormous laminate sculptures
of birds and women, and his well known prints.
Colourful, bold and quirky, his workshop and home
is a delight to visit if you get the chance.

Contact Gonzalo Cuervo for a visit (page 20).
Gonzalo has the sort of dedication, determination and balls you really have to admire. At the age of 25 he
decided to turn his back on a successful web design company, lock himself in a studio and start a new
career as an artist. Pretty gutsy move for someone who had never studied art. But perhaps even more
ballsy was his unsolicited call to the worlds most important modern art fair - the Art Basel in Switzerland.
Most artists spend their lifetime trying to get to this fair so for an amateur artist from a small town near the
foothills of the Andes in Argentina, to call up out of the blue asking for a stand at the fair, the organizers were
- to say the least - a little surprised. But one organizer threw him a bone and invited him to an art event in
Miami from where he made his own contacts in the art world and has now created his own cult following of
collectors in the US. And its certainly Gonzalo who has the last laugh now - at 29 he is already commanding
some of the highest prices in Argentina. His work varies in style and technique, but there is a strong leaning
towards the importance of rich and thick textures, quality materials and open abstract meanings. You can
see some of his enormous pieces at the Sheraton in the city centre, the new Hand of God tasting
room in Chacras, and Entre Cielos restaurant in Vistalba www.gonzaloanton.com. His workshop is
in Chacras, call for visits: (261) 15 6607 531
Rosas is a reference point for sculpture in
Argentina. Born from a very humble family in
Villanueva, Mendoza, he was always different
from his six brothers and sisters - he didnt
like dancing or football and had little interest
in going out, instead he preferred to sit in a
quiet corner with his paints from a young age.
Creating his own home and workshop in Bermejo,
Guaymallen, he has focused on sculpture since
he was 30 and has reached great critical acclaim
since then. Now 73 years old, he is still a very
productive artist and visiting his workshop and
home is like stepping into Pans Labyrinth. Weird,
wonderful and often dark sculptures fill the house
and garden creating a mythological fantasy world.
This is a real must for art lovers in Mendoza.
Visit his stunning workshop at Mathus Hoyos
4447, call for reservations on (261) 451 1605.
A lot of artists in Mendoza add some sort of wine
symbols to make their work sell better to tourists, but
with Fernandos art you can see that his love of wine
isnt just canvas deep. Having made his own garage
wine for 10 years, he is a big wine lover and although
he has been painting for over 20 years it is recently
that he has starting integrating his two passions into
one: art and wine. His earlier works reflect his study
in architecture, but in the last decade Fernando has
focused on the cork, or the guardian of wine. He
recreates the stunning textures and deep colours of
corks as well as using actual old corks from bottles
of wine he has enjoyed in collages. Some of the most
visually engaging of his art series are his paintings
of cork houses - with entire imaginary worlds
created inside. Colourful Andes landscapes also set
the background for abstract floating cork sail boats.
Playful, melancholic and pure fantasy, Jereb is a
quintessential Mendocinean artist who you shouldnt
miss. Catch Jerebs work at wineries Carinae,
Zuccardi, Pulenta Estate, Antucura and Tapiz, as
well as large murials in the Maipu Arena Casino
and Walmart. www.artejereb.blogspot.com. His
workshop is in the quinta section of the city, call
for visits: (261) 15 541 3100.
MENDOZA IS THE HOME TO GREAT WINE, BUT HAS ALSO
CULTIVATED SOME INSPIRING ARTISTS. AMANDA BARNES TAKES
A LATCHKEY LOOK INTO FOUR ARTISTS FROM MENDOZA.
GONZALO ANTON
LUIS QUESADA
FERNANDO JEREB
ROBERTO ROSAS
HOMEGROWN ART
23
24
UNESCO is an acronym that gets thrown around in guidebooks
a lot without many people really knowing what it means. Sure,
most UNESCO sites happen to be very pretty but the criteria
for becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site is actually down
to its natural or cultural importance.
Did you know that some of the 936 sites include a 1910 shoe factory
in Germany, a nuclear test site in the Marshall Islands, a steam
pumping station in the Netherlands and a rather ugly and gloomy
looking coal-mining factory in Wales? Certainly not the prettiest of
places to visit. Others of course include outstanding National Parks,
coral reefs, pyramids and palaces, but UNESCO isnt about beauty.
Which is why Mendoza is up for debate as a UNESCO World Heritage
Site for its canal and tree system. And it wouldnt be the first set of
drains to make it on the list - there are six listed already. But for now
at least, Argentina has only eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites - all of
which are quite astounding in their beauty
IGUAZU NATIONAL PARK
One of the most obvious sites to be elected, the thundering waterfall
in the middle of the Iguazu jungle which separates Argentina, Brazil
and Paraguay is one of the most awe inspiring waterfalls in the
world. 80m high and more than 3km wide, its rapturous beauty and
deafening roars of tones of falling water is enough to give you heart
palpitations however the site was actually selected by UNESCO for its
2000 species of vascular plants and rich wildlife. But dont miss out
on the falls while you are looking at the plant life.
ISCHIGUALASTO - TALAMPAYA NATIONAL AND PROVINCIAL PARKS
These two parks spanning over almost 3000 sq km of desert in North
West Argentina have the most complete fossil history of the 45 million
year long Triassic period (which was some 245 million years ago).
Although parched completely dry now, this used to be a basin of
rivers, lakes and swamps and hundreds of plant, animal, fish and
dinosaur fossils have been found here. However most people come to
visit for the strange rock formations.
BY AMANDA BARNES
Santa
Cruz
Chubut
Jujuy
La
Rioja
Cordob
UNESCO
sites in
Argentina
25
CUEVA DE LAS MANOS
These caves are located down in a deep canyon and the rock art
inside is one of the most important sites of early hunter-gatherer
tribes in South America. Rocks covered in stencil art of handprints and
drawings of animals and hunting scenes may have been childs play
when the native artists did them originally, but their existence some
12,000 years later make these cave paintings pretty impressive stuff.
PARQUE NACIONAL LOS GLACIARES
One of the must-sees of Argentina, this National Park will blow
your mind. Pure, unadulterated rugged beauty with wild barren
landscapes, towering mountains, dense forests and most enchanting
of all - soaring walls of blue ice in some of the worlds only advancing
glaciers. Lago Argentino is the most accessible spot to see the
glaciers with Perito Moreno as the top attraction. Standing in front of
a 250km field of ice and witnessing the crunching explosions of ice
tumbling into the milky glacial lake is an experience to remember
PENINSULA VALDES
This is an oasis of wildlife on the coast of Southern Argentina. Although
one of the most important tourist sites in Argentina, you still feel in
the middle of nothing here as you have the peninsula very much to
yourself - that is sharing it with few other tourists, you will of course
be sharing it with hundreds of sea lions, seals, penguins, dolphins, a
billion birds and the king of the peninsula: the killer whales which pay
a visit between June and December.
JESUIT RUINS - CORDOBA AND MISIONES
Jesuit ruins in Argentina make up two UNESCO sites - one in Cordoba
and the other in Misiones. The Jesuit block in Cordoba has intact a
university, church, college and five estancias (farming estates) from
the 17th and 18th century and is still very much in tact. However the
sites in the eastern Misiones state are much more ruins of these
constructions made by the Guaranis around the same time, and have
a more Jungle Book feel as they are set in the heart of the Argentine
tropical forest.
QUEBRADA DE HUAMAHUACA
UNESCO picked this as a site for its cultural importance as a trade
route, but Huamahuaca is more of a tourist attraction for its multi-
colored hillsides, odd rock shapes, cactus dotted landscape and
vibrant little villages with traditional adobe churches and cobblestoned
streets. If you get up to these altiplano hillsides make sure to try the
local Torronts and llama steak.
Misiones
Cordoba
Courtesy of the Secretary
of Tourism
and Protected Areas
in the Province of Chubut
26
BARS
INSIDE MENDOZA CITY
The list below has some great bars but if
youre looking to browse, head to Aristides
Villanueva Avenue, the nightlife strip of
Mendoza. Its a continuation of Ave. Colon and
is simply referred to as Aristides by the locals.
Get your shut-eye before a night out because
the clubs dont even get started until 2am,
and call a taxi because they are all located
out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.
BELIEVE IRISH PUB
One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar
counter and high stools to prop yourself up
on. Kelly, the English part-owner/pub-mascot
is almost always there to share a chat and
a smile with the crowd; which is most likely
a factor in its notable popularity among
expats and travelers. On the menu is a great
collection of draught beers, bottled beers (try
the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub
grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing
hit music-video montages or football games.
Colon and Espaa 241. Tel. 261-429-5567.
www.believeirishpub.com.ar
BAR LATINA
One of the busiest bars on Aristides, this is
one of the it places. Take your pew on the
street where everyone hangs out to be seen,
or pop into the back room for a boogie or
the garden to chill out in with a cool Mojito.
Aristides Villanueva 245
UPCOMING EVENTS
Classical music on the wine
routes: 30 March - 8 April
One of our favourite festivals in Mendoza,
this is your chance to drink fine wine and
enjoy fantastic classical music in a handful
of wineries and performance spaces in the
Mendoza region. Check out www.wine-
republic.com/events for more information
on individual shows.
Wines and Polo Annual
Tournament: 18 - 22 April
A five day polo tournament with wine tasting and
live music on the side! Held at Club de Campo
Mendoza in Guaymallen, the event is free.
Winemakers Night: 8 May
(weekly)
If you cant make it out to a winery, this is
the opportunity for a winery to come to you!
At The Vines wine bar in the city centre, each
Wednesday sees a different winemaker from
some of the countrys best wineries come
to present a couple of their wines during
an informal question and answer session.
Wednesdays, 7pm, $55 pesos per person.
The Vines, Espejo 567, (261) 438 1031.
For more events visit www.wine-republic.com/events
and see our cultural calendar.
THE VINES OF MENDOZA
As the first and only true tasting room in
South America, The Vines of Mendoza offers
the broadest selection of premium boutique
wines from Argentina. Compare the wine
notes with one of their tasting flights or chose
a glass from the impressive list of limited
production wines. Chatting with their learned
bartenders and sipping fabulous flavours on
the patio under a canopy of vines makes for
a truly enjoyable afternoon. Join their Wine
Club to receive these exclusive Argentine
wines. Espejo 567, Tel. 261 438-1031. Mon-
Sat, 3pm-10pm www.vinesofmendoza.com
CACHITAS
A laid back American style burger bar with
a good playlist and a patio outside, Cachitas
boasts one of the best barmen in the city.
Christian from Germany has travelled the
globe perfecting the art of cocteleria and here
you can sample some fab drinks that will get
your night off to a good start. Sarmiento 784
Mon - Sat, 6pm till late.
POR ACA
This is where everyone ends their night in the
city centre. A bar with cheesy music, sticky
floors and rammed full of tourists and locals
bumping uglies together in the dark - you
either love it or hate it, but most of us end up
loving it! Aristides Villanueva 557.
27
28
LUJAN DE CUYO
Terrazas
de los Andes
The fine wine sister of Chandon Argentina is a
beautifully restored bodega with well-appointed
tasting room. Try the famous Cheval de los Andes.
Tel. (0261) 488 0704/ 5. Thames and Cochamaba,
Perdriel. www.terrazasdelosandes.com
Tapiz
Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end
restaurant Terruo and an instructive wine tour
that includes an invigorating horse and carriage
ride and a tank, barrel and bottle tasting.
Tel. (0261) 490 0202. Ruta Provincial 15, Km
32, Agrelo. www.tapiz.com
Norton
Old-style cellars contrast with a high-tech
production line. Tank and barrel tastings are
conducted at this huge facility and the jug
fillings on Thursday mornings are popular with
the locals. R.P. 15, Km 23.5, Perdriel.
Tel. (0261) 490 9700. www.norton.com.ar
Ruca Malen
Excellent food, great guiding and first-class
wines. The pairings over lunch make for an
unforgettable culinary experience. Generous
tastings and gorgeous views of the vineyards
and mountains. Ruta Nacional 7, Km 1059,
Agrelo, Ljan de Cuyo. Tel. (0261) 562 8357.
www.bodegarucamalen.com
Chandon
The original foreign investor, French-owned
Chandon has been making great sparkling
wines in Mendoza since the 1960s. RP 15, Km
29, Agrelo. Tel. (0261) 490 9968.
www.bodegaschandon.com.ar
Dominio del Plata
Argentinas most famous female winemaker
Susana Balbo is creating some rich and complex
wines in the heart of Agrelo. Try their Crios and
Ben Marco. Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo. Tel. (0261)
498 9200. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar
Pulenta Estate
Cool minimalist design and rich complex wines
make this a winery with finesse and style.
Convenient to visit on the way to Valle de Uco.
Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Tel.(0261) 155 076426.
www.pulentaestate.com
Clos de Chacras
Charming boutique operation. A five minute walk
from Chacras plaza. Great Cabernet Sauvignon and
excellent lunches. Monte Libano s/n, Chacras de
Coria. Tel. (0261) 496 1285/ 155 792706.
www.closdechacras.com.ar
Carmelo Patti
Mendozas most famous garagista. Carmelo Patti
himself is often there to show you around (in
Spanish). Try his famous Cabernet Sauvignon from
the barrel. San Martin 2614. Tel ( 0261) 498 1379.
Vistalba
Tasting room where one entire wall is a subterranean
cross section of the actual vineyard clay, roots and
rocks. Houses French restaurant La Bourgogne.
Roque Saenz Pea 3135, Vistalba, Lujn de Cuyo.
Tel. (0261) 498 9400. www.carlospulentawines.com
Belasco de Baquedano
Gleaming modern facility with fascinating aroma
room and restaurant with Andean view. Cobos 8260.
Tel. (0261) 153 02349. www.belascomalbec.com
Piattelli
Al lovely family owned winery done in a Tuscan
style. Enjoy lunch on a deck beside a pond. Calle
Cobos 13710, Lujn de Cuyo. Tel (0261) 479 0123.
www.piattellivineyards.com
Achaval Ferrer
Modern boutique close to Mendoza riverbed. Big
concentrated wines. Calle Cobos 2601; Perdriel,
Lujn de Cuyo. Tel. (0261) 488 1131.
www.achaval-ferrer.com
Alta Vista
Masterful mix of modern and traditional. Tasting
includes distinctive Torrontes or single vineyard
Malbecs. lzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujn de
Cuyo. Tel (0261) 496 4684. www.altavistawines.com
Mendel
An old style winery ran by one of Argentinas most
famous winemaker dynasties the De La Motta
family. Terrada 1863, Mayor Drummond.
Tel. (0261) 524 1621. www.mendel.com.ar

Bonfanti
A lovely winery in a pastoral setting. It offers one
of Mendozas most up close and personal tours
with the owners themselves and a tasting room set
amidst the vines. Terrada 2024.
Tel. (0261) 488 0595.
Luigi Bosca
Old, family owned operation with lots of
heritage, handsome cellars and a tasting
room. Large selection of wines from low-end
to high-end blends. San Martin 2044, Mayor
Drummond. Tel. (0261) 498 1974.
www.luigibosca.com.ar
Lagarde
Owner of the oldest white wine in South
America. Try the hand- crafted sparkling wine
made from 100 year old vines; best enjoyed in
one of their many courtyards. Ave. San Martin
1745, Lujn de Cuyo. Tel. (0261) 498 0011
Ext. 27. www.lagarde.com.ar
Kaiken
This rustic 80 year-old winery houses a new
venture by the prestigious Chilean winery
Montes. There is nothing rustic about the
wines however. They are big and powerful
and destined to be famous. Here you can
enjoy a terrific view, dynamic tours and a
friendly guiding environment. Roque Saenz
Pea 5516, Las Compuertas, Vistalba, Lujn
de Cuyo. lchristensen@kaikenwines.com
Tel. (0261) 524 3160. www.kaikenwines.com
Catena Zapata
Showcase winery designed like a Mayan
temple overlooking vineyards and the Andes
Mountains. Rich, complex wines. Cobos s/n.
Tel. (0261) 413 1100. www.catenawines.com
Melipal
Great Malbec and gourmet lunches make
Melipal one of the most exclusive wineries to
visit. Ruta 7 km 1056, Agrelo. Tel. (0261)
524 8040. www.bodegamelipal.com.ar
Sottano
This small, modern winery located in Agrelo is
owned by three generations of winemakers.
Big, concentrated reds are their speciality,
including a top wine with the name Judas
which you can taste whilst viewing vineyards
and snowcapped mountains. Ruta 7 y Costa
Flores S/N. Perdriel, Lujn de Cuyo. Tel (0261)
153 535506. www.bodegasottano.com
Decero
Attractive, modern facility with spectacular
views of the mountains from the
cozy tasting room. Bajo las Cumbres
9003, Agrelo. Tel. (0261) 524 4748.
www.decero.com
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Overall Winery Experience Restaurant Lodging Driving Time from Mendoza City
Benegas Lynch
Rich history and richer wines. Lovely old bodega
with lots of character. Mendozas best Cabernet
Franc. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra.
Tel.(0261)496 0794. www.bodegabenegas.com
Dolium
A completely underground winery with
innovative design and top notch Malbecs. Ruta
Provincial 15, Km 30 s/n, Agrelo.
Tel. (0261) 490 0190. www.dolium.com
Caelum
This modern, medium size winery is located on
the main road to Chile just before you reach
the mountains. Argentine owned, it produces
quality Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Chardonnay. Ruta Nacional 7 km 1060, Agrelo,
Lujn de Cuyo. Tel. (0261) 156 439564.
www.bodegacaelum.com.ar
Dante Robino
Founded in 1920, Dante Robino offers an
atmospheric old-style winery with a modernist,
light-filled tasting room with excellent view
of the mountains and vineyards. The tasting
includes sparkling wine from the tanks.
Recommended: the Gran Dante Malbec.
Callejn Maldonado 240, Perdriel, Lujn de
Cuyo. Mendoza. Tel. (0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2.
www.bodegadanterobino.com.
Via Cobos
American winemaker Paul Hobbs was one
of the first to recognise the possibilities of
Malbec and his Bramare label is possibly one
of the best examples of this varietal. Ruta 7
Lujn de Cuyo. Tel. (0261) 479 0130.
www.vinacobos.com
VALLE DE UCO
Salentein
Designed like a temple to wine, this ultra-
concept winery includes a modern art gallery,
lodge, and chapel set high in the Andean valley.
R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. Tel. (02622) 429 500 .
www.killkasalentein.com
O. Fournier
Most architecturally innovative winery with
rich, concentrated wines. Excellent lunches in
the modernist visitor center. Los Indios s/n, La
Consulta, San Carlos. Tel. (02622) 451 088 .
www.ofournier.com
Lurton
The wines are faultless and the location
stunning. A French operation producing
excellent Torrontes and Malbec. Ruta 94 km
21, Vista Flores, Tunuyn.Tel. (0261) 441 1134.
www.bodegalurton.com
La Azul
Simple, small production winery with not so
simple Malbecs. R.P 89 s/n. Agua Amarga.
Tupungato. Tel. (02622) 423 593.
www.bodegalaazul.com
Finca La Celia
One of the valleys oldest wineries. They
conduct excellent tours and tastings. Av. De
Circunvalacion s/n, Eugenio Bustos, San
Carlos. Tel (02622) 451 010.
www.fincalacelia.com.ar
Benvenuto de la Serna
Charming, family-run operation making a very
decent Sangiovese under the Mil Piedras label.
Carril Los Sauces s/n, VistaFlores, Tunuyan.
Tel. (02622) 420 0782.
www.benvenutodelaserna.com
Altus
A red barn-like winery which faces a lovely
adobe-style restaurant doing excellent lunches.
Las Vencedoras, Tupungato. Tel. (02622)
155 080261. www.altusdetupungato.com.ar
Andeluna
The old-world style tasting room looks
upon dramatic views of vineyards against
mountains. Ruta Provincial 89, Km 11,
Gualtallary, Tupungato. Tel. (02622) 423 226
Ext 113. www.andeluna.com
Gimenez Riili
A brand new family run affair, part of the exciting
Vines of Mendoza project. This is a modern winery
in a stunning setting. Ruta 94 (s/n), Tunuyn.
Tel: (0261) 424 5973. www.gimenezriili.com
Atamisque
This Uco winery has some great white wines,
a unique stony roof and they breed their
own trout which is served in the charming
restaurant. Ruta Prov. 86 (Km 30), San Jose.
(0261) 156 855184.
MAIPU
Trapiche
Argentinas biggest winery is a mix of old and new,
traditional and industrial. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito.
Tel. (0261) 520 7666. www.trapiche.com.ar
Tempus Alba
A fine modern winery set in the rural lanes of
southern Maipu. The rooftop terrace ovelooks
the vineyard. Great Pleno label. Perito Moreno
572, Maipu. Tel. (0261) 481 3501.
www.tempusalba.com
Familia Zuccardi
A professional, far-sighted operation. The
guides are always enthusiastic, knowledgable
and eager to please. Attractive restaurant
amidst the vines, famous for its asado-style
lunches and generous wine pourings. Ruta
Provincial 33, Km 7.5, Maipu. Tel. (0261)
441 0000. www.familiazuccardi.com
Rutini / La Rural
Well-stocked museum with invaluable antiques
such as cowhide wine presses and buckets.
Giant oak tanks stand in large, cavernous halls
whilst side rooms hold Victorian era pumps
and bottle corkers. Montecaseros 2625,
Coquimbito, Maipu. Tel. (0261) 497 2013
Ext.125. www.bodegalarural.com.ar
Lopez
Popular, old-style winery with two museums
on the wine and history of Lopez and
Argentina, close to Maipu plaza. A newly
opened restaurant offers gourmet cuisine with
a panoramic view. Ozamis 375, Gral Gutirrez.
Tel. (0261) 497 6554.
www.bodegaslopez.com.ar
Flichman
Steeped in history and tradition. Charming,
pink-hued, colonial-style bodega, set in
the leafy vineyards of southern Maipu.
Recommended is the top blend Dedicado.
Munives 800, Barrancas, Maip.
Tel. (0261) 497 2039. www.flichman.com
Familia
Di Tommasso
Officially the oldest winery in Mendoza and still
run by Argentine hands. Their charming and
rustic restaurant looks onto the vineyard, just
two steps away. At La Chiase the DiTommaso,
the kitchen of the home makes homemade food
made with family recipes that can be enjoyed
among vineyards in a friendly and relaxed
atmosphere. Urquiza 8136 - Russell. Tel. (0261)
524 1829. www.familiaditommaso.com
Carinae
Small, charming, French-owned winery
offering personal tours and well-honed wines.
Surrounded by vineyards and olive trees.
Videla Arande 2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maip.
Tel. (0261) 499 0470. www.carinaevinos.com
SAN MARTIN
Familia Antonietti
A family winery in San Martin where you can have
a tour with the owners, try some of their sparkling
wines and stay for a homecooked lunch. Pizarro
s/n esq. Zelazar Chapaney. 4390964/155688905.
turismo@familianantonietti.com
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MENDOZA CITY
FLORENTINO
Florentino is a real delight. An intimate, artistic
bistro tucked into a converted house by Plaza
Italia provides the perfect nook to try some of
Mendocino chef Sebastian Flores salubrious
and scrumptious dishes. We recommend the
indulgent mushrooms with cheese (proper
parmesan), thyme and garlic croutons, or the
warm salad of squid, chorizo and watercress.
There is a nice variety of mains - and it
hasnt taken long for their succulent chivito
(baby goat) to become the thing of Mendoza
legends: moist, tender and lean on a bed of
creamy polenta and roasted garlic.
Desserts are just as irresistible as is the
extensive Argentine wine list. Florentino has
made a very promising start and its beautiful
simplicity and good taste is a real charm.
Montevideo 675. Tel: (261) 464 9077. Mon
- Sat, 12.30pm - 12am (serves early dinner
also). Avg. meal $120.
ITUZAINGO
For an intimate, unusual and memorable
evening - Ituzaingo is one of the citys best
kept secrets. A closed door restaurant
located in a historic house in the bohemian
quarter, Ituzaingo has been receiving rave
reviews from locals, expats and travellers
alike who relish in the warm atmosphere,
good company, unique art, and good food
all accompanied by an eclectic music mix.
The maestro in question is Gonzalo Cuervo
who likes to welcome in up to 45 people in
his attractive loft conversion house or leafy
summer garden, and his chef Lucas can
delight guests with an eight course menu of
Argentine flavours catered to an international
palate, or simply relax with a glass of wine
and nibble on a picada or empanadas. This is
a real place to meet the wines, food, art, music
and hospitality of Argentina. Ituzaingo, tel:
(261) 15666 5778, cocina@ituzaingoresto.
com.ar, 8 courses $190-$220 (inc wine).
Advanced booking recommended.
GRILL Q
Located in the elegant Park Hyatt, Grill Q
serves up traditional regional cuisine at a
five star level. Sit back in the chic parilla
style restaurant amongst the cowhides and
local artwork, pick from one of the many
Mendocinean wines, make your order and
watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen.
They are famous for their grilled meats
and gigantic empanadas, and serve hearty
Argentine classics such as locro - a stew
which hails back to the early independence
days. Save room for the stunning desserts.
The Hyatts other restaurant, Bistro M, offers
a more gourmet evening menu and the most
exuberant lunch menu in town. With a
gorgeous buffet spread of starters like thai
squid salad, chicken ceasar with macadamia
nuts and mezze style tapas, youll need to
bring your stretchy waistbands to fit in the
hearty and flavourful main options and the
sumptuous dessert buffet on top. Put aside
an hour or two for this tempting lunch. Chile
1124. (261) 441 1225. Avg. meal Grill Q
$105. Bistro M Executive Menu $130 with
starter buffet, main course, dessert buffet
and glass of wine. Thu-Sat lunch & dinner;
Sun (lunch).
FARRAH
Farrah is the type of restaurant that shines
in personality, from the funky and colourful
dcor and eclectic music, to the unique
wine list and menu that has dishes such
as flirting, last sensation and wet, wet,
wet. The good taste and character showing
through are those of the three Farro sisters
and their brother. The creative mind in the
kitchen is middle sister Belen who creates
fresh and innovative dishes with plenty of
meat, fish and veg options. Lots of different
salads and starters, creative ciabattas such
as blue cheese and rainbow trout, pasta
dishes including artichoke lasagna and their
signature dish of sticky BBQ ribs, all sit on
the menus in this attractive house in the 5ta.
Save room for their refreshing sage crme
brulee or oozing Chocolate volcano to savour
Farrahs last sensation. Tue - Fri Fixed lunch
menu at midday. Tue - Sun open evenings.
Paso de los Andes 1006, tel (261) 423 9981.
PATRONA
This cosy Mendocino restaurant has a
casual, rustic charm about it. A colourful
hub of activity on a quiet street, Patrona
attracts a crowd full of locals every night
of the week who come for the honest,
traditional Argentine food and friendly and
warm atmosphere. Classic dishes like the
hearty empanadas and sizzling asado are
worthy and popular fare but the real star
here is Patronas warm, open sandwiches We
recommend the artichoke hearts and goats
cheese; roasted vegetables with white wine
and honey; or the more traditional pick of
rich glands cooked in lemon. A decent wine
list and some satisfying desserts complete
the gastronomy experience but the key to
Patrona is the cosy way that they really make
you feel at home. Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9
de Julio 656. Tel: (261) 4291057.Mon to Sat:
12.30pm - 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg.
meal cost: $60
DINING OUT
Florentino
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ANNA BISTRO
For a romantic evening outdoors Anna Bistro
is unsurpassable. Carved wood tables
adorned with candles are nestled between
exotic flowering plants and hanging vines.
Couple this with soft lighting and tranquil jazz,
and any mundane evening is transformed into
a memorable event. Gazing at their menu of
delectable dishes, from ceviche and cesto de
portobello (pastry piled with mushrooms and
walnuts), to melt-in-your-mouth salmon al
limon and trout, produces an unavoidable
bout of indecisiveness. The Anna Bistro staff
swear by the T-Bone steak and local Malbec
combo. End the feast with a Blackberry
Cheesecake and glass of bubbly on the
sunken sofas for a quick trip to nirvana.
Av. Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: (261) 425 1818.
Everyday 12pm - 1am. Avg. meal cost: $90
JEROME BREW PUB
Kiss the homesick blues goodbye with
Jerome Brew Pub, where youll find real
beer, American style service and proper
pub food. Jerome Brewery up in the Andes
has been producing ferocious czech-style
ales since the mid-eighties, and this pub in
downtown champions the fine ale. Wrestle
with their juicy hamburgers, melt away with
their succulent fish and chips, dapple in their
rotating specials and snuggle up to a pint of
one of their speciality ales like their barley
wine, zesty double IPA and Malbec barrel aged
Archangel. Check out stunning beer cocktails
NADIA OF
Winery lunches are one of the best things about
Mendoza, but there is rarely an opportunity to
enjoy a six course gourmet tasting menu near
the city in the evening - until Nadia. Nadia
OF is the beautiful brainchild of Nadia Heron,
head chef at O Fournier winery. Open every
night and tucked away in tranquil Chacras,
20 mins from the centre, the restaurant has
a gorgeous courtyard, evocative art and a
relaxed vibe. Originally a biochemist, Nadia
started cooking for passion rather than trade
and it certainly shows through her creative
and colourful culinary flair. With divine
appetisers such as sweet and salty melon
gazpacho with crispy ham; and a remake of
moist Spanish omelette wrapped in tender
red pepper with a drizzle of parsley oil - the
weekly changing menu aims to play with
appearance, aromas, flavours and textures
with a focus on seasonal ingredients. Most
courses innovate vegetarian dishes but you
can also tuck into one of Mendozas biggest,
juiciest steaks with mojo rojo (red sauce). You
can BYO here or pair courses with O Fournier
wines. Open daily from 8.30pm, Italia 6055,
Chacras de Coria. Tel: (261) 496 1731. Avg.
meal: $130 without wine.
TERRUO - CLUB TAPIZ
Tucked away among the sprawling Maipu
vineyards lies Club Tapiz Resort and its lovely
restaurant Terruo. This handsome eatery
boasts an elegant interior, excellent service
and a wine list that is sure to please even
the most finicky of wine snobs. Their chef
compiles a tantalising menu that includes top
notch lomo steaks, a rotating range of salads
and a savory ginger/honey chicken dish that
is second to none. If you like what you see
and taste, book a room in one of their seven
Renaissance-style villas. Dont forget to call
ahead for dinner reservations! Ruta 60 s/n
5517 Maip. Tel: (261) 496 0131. tapiz.com.
Lunch, everyday, 12pm - 3pm. Dinner, Sun
- Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until 12am.
Avg. meal cost: $130
(mojito included!) and dont miss the indulgent
chocolate brownie drowned in stout. Aristides
Villanueva 347. Mon - Sun from 7pm till late.
Happy hour till 9pm. (261) 420 4091 Avg.
meal: $80
LA MARCHIGIANA
As the first Italian restaurant in Mendoza,
La Marchigiana has plenty of history and
traditional recipes to whet any nonnas
appetite. Maria Teresa Corradini de Barbera
moved to Argentina with her parents as a
teenage from war torn La Marche, Italy, in
1948 in the search for peace. They didnt find
peace, but they did find the Argentines had a
penchant for Italian food. The family restaurant
started off with only six Italian dishes but has
grown into a popular local fixture with dozens
of hearty pasta dishes alongside other typical
Argentine fare. Check out the Brad Pitt photo
for celeb credentials. Patricias Mendocinas
1550. (261) 423 0751. Avg. meal $100
OUTSIDE CITY CENTER
CASA DE CAMPO
For rustic charm and traditional dishes visit
Casa de Campo; A 15-minute taxi ride from
Mendoza city center. Think welcoming casa
with wooden beams, intimate tables and a
smallbut lively verandah. Locals flock for the
mouthwatering Argentine fare. Appetizers
come in a tasters collection of home-made
goodies, from bread, prosciuttio and olive
oil to sausage, pickled eggplant, cheeses
and olives. Save some room for their clay
oven specialties of succulent rabbit and
suckling pig. Complement this with a bottle
from their extensive wine list and the result
is a flavor combination of gourmet quality. A
picturesque stroll to Rutini La Rural bodega,
just ten minutes away, is a wonderful way
to conclude the afternoon. Urquiza 1516,
Coquimbito, Maipu. Everyday 12pm - 6pm.
Tel: (261) 481 1605.casadecampomza.com.
Anna Bistro
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USEFUL
INFORMATION
POLICE, FIRE DEPARTMENT AND EMERGENCY MEDICAL Dial 911 BUS
TERMINAL Tel: 431-3001 Av. de Acceso Este and Costanera. Bus Routes: Maipu, Linea
10 N 171, 172, 173, Rioja street and Garibaldi. Chacras, N 115 or 116, 25 de Mayo
and Montevideo. AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo.
SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at least U$ 30
a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special
styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266.
CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and
at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus
terminal and internet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU The most economical way to
do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (see above) to Urquiza street where youll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes.
Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty.
Recommended wineries: Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso and certainly Carinae. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo.
NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several
drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are
200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am. TAXI SERVICES Taxi Godoy Cruz
Tel: 427-0055 - Radiomvil Guaymalln Tel: 445-5855 - Mendocar Paran 250 Tel: 423-6666 - La Veloz del Este Alem 439 Telfono: 423-9090
MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English
speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley from Delite will do your hairdo right. Arstides Villanueva 444. (261) 429-9124 - Leocut: Mendoza plaza
shopping, (0261) 4490239
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