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Publisher: Routledge Informa Ltd Registered in England and Wales Registered Number: 1072954 Registered office: Mortimer House, 37-41 Mortimer Street, London W1T 3JH, UK Critical Studies in Media Communication Publication details, including instructions for authors and subscription information: http://www.tandfonline.com/loi/rcsm20 Nike, social responsibility, and the hidden abode of production Carol A. Stabile a a Associate Professor in the Department of Communication, University of Pittsburgh, Pittsburgh, PA, 15260 Published online: 18 May 2009. To cite this article: Carol A. Stabile (2000): Nike, social responsibility, and the hidden abode of production, Critical Studies in Media Communication, 17:2, 186-204 To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/15295030009388389 PLEASE SCROLL DOWN FOR ARTICLE Full terms and conditions of use: http://www.tandfonline.com/page/terms-and-conditions This article may be used for research, teaching, and private study purposes. Any substantial or systematic reproduction, redistribution, reselling, loan, sub-licensing, systematic supply, or distribution in any form to anyone is expressly forbidden. The publisher does not give any warranty express or implied or make any representation that the contents will be complete or accurate or up to date. The accuracy of any instructions, formulae, and drug doses should be independently verified with primary sources. The publisher shall not be liable for any loss, actions, claims, proceedings, demand, or costs or damages whatsoever or howsoever caused arising directly or indirectly in connection with or arising out of the use of this material. Critical Studies in Media Communication Vol. 17, No. 2, June 2000, pp. 186-204 Nike, Social Responsibility, and the Hidden Abode of Production Carol A. Stabile \^\-Nike Corporation irrefutably has created wealth for its owners and shareholders, but its rhetoric of social responsibilityits self-presentation of the corporation as a now global citizenconstitutes a more dubious claim. Nike is not alone in engaging in such marketing practices, but the corporation has long been in the vanguard of innovations in both production and marketing and therefore offers an instructive case study of how multinational corporations produce and manage their public images. This essay looks at the conditions that have made this particular self-presentation possible for U.S. consumers. Hunger is hunger, but the hunger gratified by cooked meat eaten with a knife and fork is a different hunger from that which bolts down raw meat with the aid of hand, nail and tooth. Production thus produces not only the object but also the manner of consumption, not only objectively but also subjectively. Production thus creates the consumer. (Marx, 1973, p. 92) I n June 1996, responding to journal- ist Bob Herbert's scathing critique of Nike's promotional rhetoric of so- cial responsibility (1996b, p. A19), Chairman and CEO Philip Knight reit- erated Nike's alleged commitment to humanity. Nike, he avowed, has long "been concerned with developing safe and healthy work environments wher- ever it has worked with contractors in emerging market societies," it provides Carol A. Stabile is an Associate Professor in the Department of Communication at the Univer- sity of Pittsburgh, Pittsburgh, PA 15260. She acknowledges the helpful feedback provided by Lisa Frank, Allen Larson, Nagesh Rao, Mat- thew Reichek, and Mark Ungeron earlier drafts of this essay. "free meals, housing and health care and transportation subsidies," and "we do our best to insure that labor abuses do not occur." In a concluding flour- ish, Knight wrote, "add to this the 200,000 people employed by our con- tractors at the factory level and you have a company that began in my basement and today creates wealth where none existed before" (p. A18). Nike irrefutably has created wealth for its owners and shareholders (when the corporation went public in 1980, for example, at least six of its sharehold- ers became multimillionaires), but its rhetoric of social responsibility-its self- presentation of the corporation as a now global citizen-constitutes a more dubious claim. Of course, Nike is not alone in engaging in such marketing discourse, but the corporation has long been in the vanguard of innovations in both, production and marketing and therefore offers an instructive case study of how multinational corporations pro- duce and manage their public images. In terms of communication research, this essay proceeds from the assump- Copyright 2000, National Communication Association D o w n l o a d e d
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CSMC 187 STABILE tion that analyses of Nike's advertising and public relations campaigns and the ideologies therein expressed offer little in the way of critical insight. In- deed, the success of the rhetoric of social responsibility depends on the management of visible contradictions and controversies, and the mainte- nance of a number of invisible contra- dictions and controversies. The follow- ing analysis moves from the level of the visible to the invisible in an attempt to understand how the terms "corpora- tion" and "social responsibility" have been knit together within the media. and to illuminate the issues and con- flicts thereby rendered invisible. Sneaker Wars What too many people who live in other places don't understand is that there's a part of America where a Big Mac is a celebration.... Most of the people in this store, their lives are shit; their homes in the projects are shit-and it's not like they don't know it. There's no drop-in center around here anymore, and no local place to go that they can think of as their own. So they come to my store. They buy these shoes just like other kinds of Americans buy fancy cars and new suits. It's all about trying to find some status in the world- Steven Roth, Owner, Essex House of Fash- ion, Newark, NJ. (in Katz, 1994, p. 271) One of the first high-profile contro- versies Nike encountered involved an association that emerged between sneakers and the media's representa- tions of inner-city violence. These "sneaker wars" had their origins-ironi- cally enough-in competition between Nike and Reebok over market share. In 1991, Nike and Reebok went head- to-head in a television advertising cam- paign known as "the sneaker wars." 1 Spending at least $130 million each, their dueling commercials featured NBA players who implied that their respective brand of sneakers gave them a competitive edge. Nike's own edge over Reebok (by January 1992, Nike had 40 percent of the market, while Reebok had only 16 percent) and the increased visibility of its Air Jordans eventually provoked a public relations crisis when the sneaker wars merged with news coverage of inner-city vio- lence (Rifkin, 1992, p. 10). A spate of publicity in 1989 sug- gested that children were killing each other over athletic shoes and, in 1990, Sports Illustrated reported that inner- city youths were committing homi- cides specifically for Air Jordans. In August 1991, economic and racial ten- sions turned violent in the Crown Heights neighborhood of Brooklyn. In the months that followed the turmoil, a significant amount of print media cov- erage was devoted to the looting of a store in Crown Heights called Sneaker King, owned by a Korean family. The brand name "Nike" featured promi- nently in the coverage (Barron, 1991, p. 3; Faison, 1991, p. 25). In March 1992, a fifteen-year old in Philadelphia reportedly was killed during the theft of his Air Jordans; in April 1992, South Central LA erupted, with looting and brand name sneakers again splashed across pages and screens; and in July 1992, KP Original Sporting Goods in Harlem was robbed. According to the New York Times, in Harlem "10,000 pairs of Nike, Reebok and other high- priced sneakers" were stolen in a "frenzy of looting and violence" that was "explained by two words: 'greed and sneakers'" (Fritsch, 1992, p. 25). The suburbs also became implicated in apparently sneaker-motivated crimi- nal behavior. Fairfield, Connecticut's First Selectman, Jacquelyn C. Durrell described "situations in town where D o w n l o a d e d
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188 NIKE JUNE 2000 youngsters not only had their bicycles stolen but their sneakerstheir Mi- chael Jordan Air Pumpsright off them" (Lomuscio, 1991, p. 1). As the sneakers at issue became asso- ciated with the Nike brand (as inevita- bly they would given Nike's promi- nence in the market and its use of African-American spokespersons), the corporation was confronted with both a problem and the opportunity for some free, albeit dual-edged, publicity. As Katz notes, "Magic had accrued to the most carefully made shoes, and this perception was clearly the result of a hundred intricate cultural signals- many of which had indeed been manu- factured as a way to manipulate the shape of popular desire" (1994, p. 269). The problem Nike subsequently con- fronted had two main aspects. On one hand, the sneaker wars threatened to become a critique of the very consum- erist desires Nike had so successfully manipulated. Had Nike been too suc- cessful in manipulating "popular de- sire"; so successful, in fact, that those without the wherewithal to purchase the shoes were willing to resort to vio- lence to acquire a pair? From the per- spective of an advertising-supported media industry, this line of questioning is especially dangerous since it threat- ens to cast doubt on the very practices that generate vast profits. Teen-agers, for example, currently spend $57 bil- lion of their own money and $36 bil- lion of their families' money each year (Conover, 1998, p. 13). Over the past forty years, communication research has invested enormous resources in analyzing the effects of media violence on viewers, while scant critical atten- tion has been devoted to the effects of advertising's ability to stimulate de- sires for products and lifestyles outside viewers' economic grasp and related increases not in violence per se but in crimes like burglary and theft. 2 Since the articulation of sneakers and greed followed on the heels of the highly visible "sneaker wars" advertising cam- paign, the possibility that Nike's aggres- sive marketing campaign could have spurred such greed wasn't much of a stretch. Given the pervasiveness of me- dia effects theory in popular culture, if children were killing one another over sneakers, blaming the media and Nike's advertising practices might not be far behind. 3 On the other hand, since Nike's ads rely in large part on the positivism of the contrast between the disciplined African-American bodies it uses to sell products and the criminalized African- American bodies that abound in the media, when die contrast threatened to dissolve, the issue had to be carefully managed. If Nike sneakers became linked to gangs and inner-city vio- lence-if the magic that had accrued to them became tainted-consumption might be affected, particularly if subur- banites feared that their Nike-shod chil- dren were at risk. 4 Understanding the problem as a po- tential moral panic, Nike launched a crisis management campaign. 5 In 1992, Nike ran a number of antiracist ads by Spike Lee, and in November of tiiat year, Nike and Michael Jordan jointly donated $200,000 to Chicago Public Schools. By 1993, Nike was a key sup- porter of "midnight basketball pro- grams," and in 1994, during the inten- sified coverage of crime that heralded Clinton's Crime Bill, Nike formally launched PLAY (Participate in the lives of America's Youth). With pro- motional moves that cost them very little in the end (one need only com- pare the $130 million dollars Nike spent on advertising during the sneaker D o w n l o a d e d
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CSMC 189 STABILE wars with the corporation's paltry dona- tion of $100,000 to Chicago schools), Nike managed not only to publicize a commitment to social responsibility, but to suggest that the corporation was part of the solution rather than part of the problem. PLAY in particular enabled Nike to restore its veneer of social responsibil- ity by implying that the solution to inner city deterioration was through the discipline of sport and its promise of upward mobility. In so doing, the program relied on a logic of inferential racism: There's a crisis in America right now. Kids' sports and fitness programs are being axed from schools and the country's playgrounds aren't safe anymore. Access to play should be a kid's inalienable right. Nike wants to lead the charge to guarantee that these rights to America's children are preserved. (In Cole, 1996, pp. 7-8) Framed in this way, the crisis locates the problem as reductions in spending to athletic programs thus implying that the central problem in inner-city schools is that poor children do not have access to the formal discipline of athletics. Despite the references to "America" and "America's children," the crisis clearly emanates from the inner-city, where crime runs rampant and "playgrounds aren't safe any- more." Without sports programs, inner- city youths have no hope for the fu- ture. As one PLAY ad puts it, "If you couldn't dream of touchdowns, what would you dream?" The undermining of educational curricula in inner-city schools through federal and state reduc- tions does not generate the same kind of marketing opportunities or moral outragea fact that underscores the self- interested nature of the campaign, as well as its inferential racism. This is a racist common sense that prioritizes (at least rhetorically) athletic programs for African-American children while sys- tematically and simultaneously attack- ing and eroding economic and educa- tional programs. Moreover, behind the humanitarian guise of PLAY, Nike's perniciously exploitative recruitment practices among inner-city youth re- main concealed. 6 The emphasis on "play" further re- lies on the deeply sedimented racist belief that African-Americans are "naturally" inclined to an excess of energy and that they require appropri- ate, socially-sanctioned outlets for such "natural" behavior. Historically, a simi- lar paternalism has been extended to various poor and working-class ethnic and racial groups (the Irish, Italians, Chinese), whose participation in either unofficial or illegal economies was said to illustrate their biological proclivity toward criminal or excessive behav- iors. 7 However, where "gang" activity in the case of these immigrant groups occasionally led to upward mobility and assimilation, racism in illegal (as well as legal) economies has prevented such mobility for African-Americans. 8 In essence, PLAY's "Revolutionary Manifesto" depends upon a very tradi- tional belief that sport and athletic pro- grams provide the disciplinary struc- ture that poor children are said to lack. Since the family is seldom understood, much less represented, as the eco- nomic unit that it is, sport as surrogate family is detached from economics. In place of the economic stability that might effect actual change in their lives, children have an "inalienable right" to "positive, energetic actions charged with fun and free motion." Appar- ently, poor children do not need food, health care, shelter, clothing, or access to a decent public educationthey need an "active life, sport and the pursuit of D o w n l o a d e d
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190 NIKE fun." 9 Indeed, these children are said to have "choices" insofar as inner-city youths can "choose" the immediate gratification of the drug tradean occu- pation that (despite the risk of being arrested or shot) yields a great deal of cashor they can "choose" the more arduous and culturally heroic path to riches provided by athletics. In establishing life "choices" in a way abstracted from material contexts, PLAY takes advantage of existing me- dia discourses and policy debates about youths, poverty, and crime. Typically, such discourses seek to minimize, or even ignore, reference to the economic circumstances in which poor children and their families struggle to get by. As William Adler observes in his land- mark study of the Chambers family and their crack cocaine empire in De- troit, Slam-bang stories and statistics outrage people, but for the wrong reasons. Crack is a scourge; its carnage, its devastation of family and neighborhood life have been documented thoroughly. But just as most stories about homelessness fail to mention that the federal government slashed hous- ing subsidies, the raft of drug stories com- pletely ignores why crack distribution is for so many a rational career choice. There often is no content to the stories; it is as if crack fell from the sky. (1995, p. 5) For example, in one New York Times article, despite its informant's insis- tence that he began dealing drugs be- cause his mother' s welfare check could not support him and his three younger sisters, a day in his life is structured around the following priorities: On a spring morning four years ago in a deadend neighborhood in Chicago, it was Jovan Rogers's turn to sell a little bag of crack that, added to the bags that he fig- ured were sure to follow, could buy him gym shoes and girlfriends and maybe keep JUNE 2000 the electric company from turning off the lights at his mother's apartment again. (Wilkerson, 1994, p. Al, emphasis added) Jovan' s life is structured around an in- fantilized urge for commoditieswith his responsibility to his mother added only as an afterthought and contin- gent, it is implied, on whether his ill- gotten funds hold out. Despite the voices that threaten to disrupt such representations of inner-city life"he says he would be happy to find a job paying $6 or $7 an hour. But so far, he said, no one but the drug dealers seem willing to hire hi m" (Wilkerson, 1994, p. A13);" ' There are no j o b s . . . What' s Milton going to do to survive?' " (Purdy, p. A10); " ' I prefer having a job to being out in the streets', he said, 'getting harassed by cops, getting shot at by [the Latin] Ki ngs' " (Nieves, p. Al 1). The realities of economic immis- eration are pushed by the narrative structure into the background, where they recede and fade from view. 10 In addition to its elision of economic issues, PLAY's emphasis on "play" fur- ther exploits a deep vein of media racism. Media coverage of poor, Afri- can-American neighborhoods gener- ally represents inhabitants as having too much leisure or too much unstruc- tured time on their hands, while the rhetoric of drug lords and welfare queens denotes a feudal economy in which actual class relations are thor- oughly inverted. The camera obscura of such representational practices sug- gests that the majority of welfare recipi- ents are black and that they do nothing all day but consume crack, alcohol, and junk food, all the while hanging out on the streets and neglecting their children. In an interesting contrast- and one that reflects the class interests of the media-capitalists like Nike's Philip Knight are represented as up- D o w n l o a d e d
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CSMC 191 STABILE standing citizens and workaholics, who can barely fit a television interview into their hectic schedules. Of this con- trast, Adler perceptively points out, Just as Wall Street's inside traders cannot be written off as greedy aberrants, neither can the Chambers brothers be dismissed as aberrant ghetto capitalistseach took their cue from the wider society. They did not reject mainstream values; rather they embraced them in the only way they could. In yearning and looking and groping for a way out, the Chamberses did what most Americans would have said was the right thing to do had they not sold drugs: they strove for financial success. Indeed, their story should frighten not because it shows what made them different, but rather what made them so common, (p. 7) Similarly, if we scratch the surface of Nike's veneer a bit, we can see how the codes of conduct so valued by corpo- rate culture are displaced onto groups of people who haven't the economic means to pursue them legally but are nevertheless held responsible for the genesis of such codes and desires. 11 "There is no Finish Line": Nike's Pitch to the Consumerist Caste Of course, corporations are not par- ticularly concerned about the casual- ties of consumerist ideologies since their attention is focused on a more lucra- tive group of consumers. For media industries, audiences are commodities that are sold or delivered to advertis- ers. Because the content of television programming and print media articles is produced, distributed, and exhibited for the audience as a commodity, a sitcom, soap opera, or news broadcast must attract the appropriate demo- graphic, those consumers to whom the content of advertising is oriented, in order to succeed. Advertisements that run during particular television pro- grams or in the specialized domain of magazines, reveal much about the in- come level and consumption habits of the target audience for whom that pro- gram is intended, as does advertising in the more obviously specialized magazine industry. One need only con- trast the products advertised in Ebony, for example, with those advertised in Newsweek, or commercials broadcast during ER with those broadcast during daytime soap operas, to understand this point. As a commodity, the audience is a quantity, but it is a quantity with par- ticular qualitative features. As Ben Bag- dikian puts it, the "iron rule of advertis- ing-supported media" is that "It is less important that people buy your publi- cation (or listen to your program) than that they be 'the right kind' of people" (1992, p. 109). A case in point of this iron rule is the contemporary predica- ment of the conservative magazine Reader's Digest. Although the magazine boasts a circulation of 28 million world- wide and publishes 48 editions in 19 languages, it recently posted a loss of $114 million for the fiscal third quarter of 1996. The problem now confronting the publishers involves the median age of its readers (forty-seven) and the eco- nomic imperative to attract a more "valuable" demographic, "like fami- lies with parents under the age of 50 who have children at home and house- holds with incomes of $75,000 or more" (Pogrebin, 1996, p. C8). 12 The homogeneity of media content produced for such a "consumerist caste" (Meehan, 1993, p. 210) has sig- nificance for how we understand the content of both programming and ad- vertising. The pleasures and experien- tial frameworks of those outside of, or marginal within, the consumerist caste, D o w n l o a d e d
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192 NIKE JUNE 2000 are, as Eileen Meehan puts it, "eco- nomically irrelevant" (p. 210) and al- though the form of advertising's ad- dress is a seemingly universal "you," in reality, the ideology of that address is both economically and racially spe- cific, although it may serve to make those outside the consumerist caste de- sire commodities beyond their eco- nomic reach. The "success" of Nike's ads and products has depended on the corpora- tion's ability to reach a target audience of middle-class consumers through ap- peals to the values and belief systems of that audience. This does not mean that audiences who do not fit this demo- graphic profile are untouched by Nike's advertising campaigns in particular or the commodity fetishism it promotes in general. It does mean, however, that Nike pitches its ads not to some fictive mass audience, but to those consumers most likely to be able to buy their products. The specificity of Nike's address to this consumerist caste (not to mention the specificity of its product line) is evident in its television ads from the late 1970s when the corporation was gaining ascendancy. Capitalizing on the running fad among the demographic known as baby boomers, the early ads incorporated certain watered-down ide- als from the 1960s with the countercul- ture now firmly articulated to a par- ticular consumer life style. These advertisements repeatedly featured white men, loping through sylvan land- scapes-sneaker-clad versions of Tho- reau's rugged woodsman-while the voice-over equated the individualism of the runner with the individualized craftsmanship and technology of the nascent Nike corporation. Another ad established Nike's now familiar rheto- ric of revolution. Set to the strains of the 7572 Overture, Nike proclaimed a "revolution" in running-shoe technol- ogy, with the corporation positioned in the "vanguard" of such revolutionary change. The corporation's later use of the Beatle's "Revolution" in 1987 and Gil Scott Heron's "The Revolution Will Not be Televised" in 1995 testify to the continued success of this countercul- tural theme. As Katz observes, "some- how Just Do It' managed to evoke countless previously impeded visions of personal responsibility. The phrase entered popular discourse like some consumer-age variation on the old revo- lutionary interrogative, 'What is to be done?' " (1994, p. 146). These early advertisements contain a reasonably straightforward address. Representing itself as a small entrepreneurial ven- ture long after it had become a multi- million dollar enterprise, Nike initially appealed to white male consumers on the basis of its craftsmanship, commit- ment to excellence, and social respon- sibilityall attractive characteristics to its audience. Its outdoor, naturally lit scenes and narrative focus on individu- als spoke to the experiential frame- work of white, middle-class consumers for whom fitness was an increasingly important leisure activity. Such a niche market of runners had its economic limitations, however, and in 1977, Nike executives discerned a shift in their consumers from "running geeks" to "yuppies"an "emerging consumer [who] was shallow and had little sense of history" (Strasser & Beck- lund, 1991, p. 268). Nike had been diversifying its product line for some time: tennis shoes were introduced in 1972, the move into basketball shoes began in late 1974, the "Senorita Cortez" women's running shoe was introduced in 1976, and a clothing line in 1979. When the corporation went D o w n l o a d e d
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CSMC 193 STABILE public in 1980, Nike began its aggres- sive advertising campaign. In 1982, Nike hired Chiat/Day, die firm that went on to produce Nike's city cam- paigns as well as many of its successful television commercials. As Amy Hribar and Cheryl Cole point out, Nike achieved its most wide- spread publicity through basketball (1995, p. 349) and its marketing of African-American celebrities like Mi- chael Jordan and Spike Lee. This strat- egy has allowed Nike to capitalize on cutting-edge fashions that originate in inner-cities and among urban minori- ties. Advertising industry experts claim that this emphasis on "inner-city chic" permits advertisers to "jazz up their sales pitches" (Tyson, 1996, p. 8) or, as in the case of ad agency DDB Needham's hiring of Spike Lee in 1996, to revitalize a company's "stodgy, lily white image" (Hirschfield, 1997, p. 36). Experts also assert that advertisers' growing emphasis on city fashion re- flects the importance of the "urban market," which Ken Smikle, publisher of Target Market News, says "has be- come one of those phrases that can be used comfortably by those who don't want to say black or African-Ameri- can" (Tyson, p. 8). Advertisers also admit that they use the term "urban market" so as not to alienate white consumers by openly casting a trend or product as African-American or His- panic. Nike's move into basketball also co- incided with a boom in the marketing of multicultural texts across the media, especially in the area of book publish- ing. The boom in multicultural images had specific ideological effects insofar as it helped to maintain the illusion that consumption reflected or was iden- tical to political practice. First, multicul- tural images appeared to provide an antidote to the media's reliance on overtly racist stereotypes as well as an alternative to the criminalized images of African-Americans that proliferate on the nightly news. By providing "positive" images, or role models, cor- porations (including the media) could represent themselves as being socially responsible to people of color and link this to the products being sold. The consumerist caste could participate in a feeling of social responsibility by con- suming multicultural images that pro- vided a simulacrum of racial integra- tion. The representation of a very few successful African-Americans further reinforced Nike's trademark of indi- vidual and individualized excellence, thereby denying the obstacles that insti- tutionalized racism places in the paths of African-Americans (indeed, to ac- knowledge the existence of this would be to contradict its very slogan'Just Do It"). As Hazel Carby (1992) points out in regard to the consumption of multicul- tural texts in university classrooms, rep- resentations of African-Americans have come to stand in for the actual pres- ence (and advancement) of people of color thus giving white Americans the comforting illusion of inhabiting a color-blind society. Certainly, this was a convenient fiction for white Ameri- cans to consume along with their Nikes, since it denied the material realities of racist oppression and material segrega- tion in the United States. Recent adver- tisements featuring golfer Tiger Woods, in which individuals state "I am Tiger Woods," as a procession of people of varying races, ages, and genders flash across the screen, offer a vivid illustra- tion of Nike's assertions about the mo- bility of identity. Nike's use of aproto- feminist pitch offers an instructive contrast to this multiculturalism. As D o w n l o a d e d
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194 NIKE JUNE 2000 image of girl after girl moves across the screen, their voices intone: "If you let me play sports, I will have more self- confidence. If you let me play sports, I will be more likely to leave a man who beats me. If you let me play sports, I will be less likely to get pregnant be- fore I want to." Here, it is revealing that while Nike can refer to domestic violence and other gender issues to sell its sneakers, it does not refer to statis- tics on racist oppression. After all, Nike was selling sneakers to female mem- bers of the consumerist casteto detail the effects of racism threatened to dis- rupt the ideological framework of the entire consumerist caste. Framed within the poles of "posi- tive" and "negative" role models, Nike's use of African-American men in its ad campaigns relied upon what Stu- art Hall has described as a logic of inferential racism, a logic with a lengthy history and one that is all too fre- quently invisible to white consumers (1990, p. 13). Where sport for white athletes is equated with leisure (how- ever competitive), sport has more grav- ity when connected to African-Ameri- cans. After all, in a white supremacist culture, professional sport provides one of the few entry-points into the Horatio Alger myth for African-Americans, with the traditional entertainment in- dustry being another. And basketball, more than any other sport, has been inextricably articulated to urban spaces and African-American athletes. Thus basketball, in a white imaginary, con- firms that the American Dream is within the grasp of African-Americans, if only they would pull themselves up by their Nike laces and "Just Do It." The implication of such narratives is that African-American possess bod- ily capital rather than the entrepreneur- ial cunning of an Andrew Carnegie or Ted Turner. Their impulsiveness, or excess energy, must find an appro- priate physical outlet-it must be dis- ciplined-or else it runs the risk of turning into senseless, undisciplined violence. Even "successful" African- Americans are represented as being dogged by this problem as the media attention to Michael Jordan's gam- bling illustrates. 13 Although Nike has long cultivated "bad boy" endorsers for their prod- ucts, the "bad boy" image functions quite differently for white athletes like Ilie Nastase and John McEnroe. In the case of African-American spokesper- sons, crime implicitly and explicitly haunts Nike's commodification of Afri- can-American athletes. Again, these ads take their meaning from and must be situated within a constant flow of televi- sion images that largely serve to crimi- nalize African-Americans and demon- ize inner-city communities. Nike's grainy black-and-white images of bas- ketball courts stand in stark relief against nightly local and network cov- erage of urban carnage; the disciplined choreography of the court and athletic culture posed as the alternative to the ruthless anarchy of the streets, while organized sports offer an antidote to die criminal behavior of gangs. Given the levels of segregation diat exist in the United States, many white Ameri- cans (and certainly a large percentage of the consumerist caste) have their per- ception of people of color structured around such mass-mediated poles. Consumption and Its Casualties The racial specificity of the consum- erist caste is also evident in die case of a largely invisible consumer boycott of Nike products, staged by those mar- ginal to or within the consumerist caste. Publicly, Nike has found it useful to D o w n l o a d e d
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CSMC 195 STABILE allow their commodification of African- American athletes to imply a commit- ment to African-American consumers. In keeping with this, Strasser and Beck- lund offer the following description of Nike's move into basketball: Basketball was a city sport, partly because courts were available and free. Canvas converse shoes were almost a required uniform for inner-city kids. The day Knight put basketball shoes into the new Nike line, he crossed over into his first market that had a black target consumer. Oregon was as white as states came, and distance running had always been a white sport except for the small but growing number of world-class African runners. Blue Rib- bon [soon to be renamed Nike] didn't have many, if any, black employees, and knew little about the black consumer, (p. 224) But far from signaling a shift in product marketing, or a desire to "target" Afri- can-American consumers, the use of images of African-Americans to sell commodities was an advertising strat- egy that was structurally intertwined with the successful television market- ing of the NBA. As it turned out, "black consumers," who constitute only a slight percentage of the consumerist caste, were less than important to Nike. The question of race and target audi- ence for television programming, how- ever, should be approached with some caution since the main issue is class and not race. In addition, the indus- try's understanding of a target audi- ence is based not on objective realities, but on executives' and researchers' per- ceptions about the values and belief systems of the audience they most want to reach. As the president of 20th Cen- tury Fox Television, which produces television shows, candidly put it, "I don't think that anyone's crying out for integrated shows.... By pursuing ad- vertisers and demographics rather than a mass audience, the networks have declared they don't need blacks in their audience" (Sterngold, 1998, p. A12). In this respect, the cable industry is often contrasted positively with net- work television, although it is seldom acknowledged that cable's niche mar- keting is underwritten by the fact that its viewers must pay a fee for service and are therefore considered more de- mographically attractive. Evidence abounds that illustrates Nike's overall lack of interest in Afri- can-American consumers, although one example will suffice here. In Au- gust 1990, Operation PUSH (People United to Serve Humanity), a Chicago Civil Rights organization founded by Jesse Jackson in 1971, launched a boy- cott of Nike products. Organized by PUSH'S new director, Reverend Ty- rone Crider, the boycott responded to what PUSH described as Nike's "zero" policy. Although purchases by African- Americans, according to Crider, ac- counted for 30 percent of Nike's $2.23 billion annual sales, "zero African- Americans hold executive-level posi- tions; zero African-American-owned newspapers, magazines, radio and tele- vision stations carry Nike advertise- ments, and zero African-American pro- fessional service providers have contracts or do business with Nike" (Woodard, 1990, p. 17). The gist of PUSH'S critique was clear: Nike was pleased to use a few successful African- Americans to sell its products, but when it came to materially supporting middle-class African-Americans by giv- ing them a piece of their business, the picture was quite different. On August 17, 1990, Nike president Richard Donahue, and Chairman and CEO Philip Knight made a two- pronged response to PUSH. Nike im- mediately undermined PUSH's cred- D o w n l o a d e d
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196 NIKE JUNE 2000 ibility by suggesting that the boycott had been instigated by its major com- petitor, Reebok. In a profoundly con- tradictory move, they then observed that African-Americans constituted a mere ten percent of their consumers (thereby implying that in the larger scheme of things, they were an unim- portant minority), but in the same breath cited the company's "aggres- sive minority recruiting effort" and its "exemplary" record on the use of "mi- nority spokespeople" such as San An- tonio Spurs' David Robinson, Michael Jordan, Spike Lee, and Bo Jackson. Donahue and Knight refused to an- swer questions from the press about Nike's statistics on African-American employment instead speaking only in terms of "minorities" (Strasser & Beck- lund, p. 658). In response, Crider con- ceded that Nike did promote "positive Black role models," but argued that the boycott was "not about four or five African-Americans. It's about 30 mil- lion African-Americans" (PUSH Holds First Meeting with Nike, 1990, p. 27). Prior to the Nike boycott, PUSH had staged successful boycotts against the Adolph Coors Company and Burger King, forcing both companies to make minor concessions to middle- class African-Americans (Coors in- vested some of their profits in African- American communities, while Burger King added African-American franchi- sees). But despite the support of Jesse Jackson, Maxine Waters, the National Council of Negro Women, and sup- port at the grassroots level, the Nike boycott not only failed, but almost de- stroyed PUSH itself. In January 1991, six months after announcing the Nike boycott, PUSH reported a deficit of several hundred thousand dollars, laid off its entire staff, and in March, Rever- end Crider resigned (Wilkerson, 1991, p. 12). The boycott received no coverage in the mainstream media, although it was covered by African-American media that received no advertising dollars from Nike. 14 The New York Times, for instance, never mentioned the boy- cott while it was active but covered PUSH's demise in detail. Claiming that the "public relations failure" of the Nike boycott hurt PUSH enor- mously because the "protest never ap- peared to catch on" (Wilkerson, 1991,, p. 12), it added that "Several promi- nent blacks opposed the boycott, which was widely perceived as a failure when Nike officials refused to negotiate with PUSH" (A Troubled Operation PUSH Struggles to Focus its Mission, 1991, P-14). There are a number of interesting contradictions between mainstream media coverage and coverage in Afri- can-American print media. Jet, which devoted a substantial amount of cover- age to the Nike boycott, as well as PUSH's other activities, never men- tioned dissent among African-Ameri- cans over the boycott. Jet also reported that Nike officials had met at least twice with PUSH representatives, which con- tradicts the New York Timers assertion that Nike had refused to negotiate. In addition, Black Enterprise claimed that Nike in fact had made concessions to PUSH: they agreed to name a minority to Nike's board of directors within one year and one minority vice president within two. In contrast to the public relations maneuvers that followed the sneaker wars, the PUSH boycott was quietly and easily managed, a point that rein- forces the comparative powerlessness of even middle-class African-Ameri- can consumers within the consumerist D o w n l o a d e d
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CSMC 197 STABILE caste. The boycott subjected PUSH to a great deal of public scrutiny at the hands of a powerful, multinational cor- poration during a period in which the organization was experiencing a series of transitions in both leadership and orientation and when contributions from its middle-class base had dropped significantly. In the end, the boycott was unsuccessfulnot, as the main- stream media would have it-because African-Americans did not agree with it (in fact, Michael Jordan himself told Jet that he understood and supported PUSH concerns), but because die boy- cott did not jeopardize Nike's sales or public image (indeed, to affect either the boycott would have needed wide- spread publicity and support from the consumerist caste). Although Nike ad- vertises extensively in women's maga- zines, to this day, it does not run ads in African-American magazines ]ike Jet or Ebony, nor does it run ads during televi- sion programming that attracts a largely African-American audience. 15 "Dirty, Dangerous, and Difficult:" Nike and the Mode of Production 16 As problematic as it is to make claims about the universality of Nike's adver- tising appeal and its "mass" audience, an analysis (not to mention political practice) that remains at the level of advertising and consumption serves to obscure yet another, even more invis- ible, contradiction. 17 For nowhere is the distinction between the consumer- ist caste and those outside it as visible as it is from the standpoint of produc- tion, a standpoint that is, understand- ably enough, invisible from the per- spective of consumption promoted by the media. In terms of production, Nike's corpo- rate origins can be traced back to 1963, when founder Philip Knight struck a deal with a Japanese firm, Onitsuka Company, Ltd., to be the West Coast distributor for Tiger track shoes, a knock-off of the German-made Adidas brand that then dominated the market. Blue Ribbon Sports, as the company was originally named, was among the first to take advantage of Asian-pro- duced, inexpensive imitations of brand- name footwear. Knight's capitalist acu- men cannot be overestimated: in 1960, only four percent of shoes sold in the U.S. were imported; by 1969, 32 per- cent were imports (Strasser & Beck- lund, p. 185)an increase that was to have disastrous consequences for the small New England towns that were then the centers of domestic shoe pro- duction. By 1984, imports had risen to 11 percent of the U.S. shoe market (p. 559). Concerned about relying solely on Japanese manufacturing and in search of ever cheaper labor, Blue Ribbon opened its first factory in Korea in 1976. 19 In 1979, during the first year of China's "economic adjustment" (at a time when monthly wages there were $30), Nike, whose name had officially changed in 1978, opened its first fac- tory in mainland China. At the Yue Yuen factory, ninety-percent of work- ers are women who "must obey a long list of rules concerning fraternization with men and curfews" (Katz, 1994, pp. 179-80). By 1980, 90 percent of Nike's production took place in Korea and Taiwan. Presently, more than a third of Nike products are produced in Indonesia, but with an increase in mini- mum wage to $2.20 a day in that coun- try (after almost four years of labor struggles), Nike moved into Vietnam, where the daily wage is a meager $1.50 (Herbert, 1996a, p. A19). In the United States, Nike operated D o w n l o a d e d
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198 NIKE JUNE 2000 a factory in Saco, Maine, from 1978 to 1984 and in Exeter, New Hampshire, from 1972 to 1984. At the time, these United States-based factories (which ac- counted for only a tiny percentage of total production) were a safeguard for the corporation. On one hand, they gave the company a place to develop designs with relative security and estab- lish a new model in the marketplace before mass-producing it abroad. On the other hand, given serious concerns about protectionist legislation in the shoe manufacturing industry, United States-based factories were a form of insurance. If protectionist legislation became a reality, Nike's U.S. factories maintained a domestic manufacturing base. Nike had already experienced such a problem: In 1974, U.S. Cus- toms had levied additional import du- ties on Blue Ribbon Sports shoes un- der the American Selling Price statute (ASP). The resulting litigation was not settled until 1980, when the proposed back payment was reduced from $16 to $9 million, and the ASP method of computing duty was rejected. 20 Currently, Nike operates a high-tech distribution center in Memphis, Ten- nessee, where between 60 and 225 tem- porary workers with no job security and no health benefits are employed on ajust-in-time basis. Nike has contin- ued to refuse to release its African- American employment figures, refer- ring instead to "minority" employees, 200 of whom are employed in the Memphis facility and a number of whom are Vietnamese manual labor- ers in Beaverton, Oregon, engaged in the production of Nike's Air-Soles (Strasser & Becklund, p. 658). Readers of business newspapers and journals, as well as corporate literature, will be familiar with this brief history: like the majority of successful corpora- tions, Nike has pursued cheap labor sources in countries like Indonesia where "friendly" governments are will- ing to guarantee cheap labor using whatever means necessary. In Indone- sia, for example, daily wages were set below the official minimum wage (an official wage the government had set below the poverty line in order to at- tract and maintain "footloose" corpora- tions like Nike) and workers who struck for higher wages were fired. 21 Coun- tries like the Philippines and Thailand, either unwilling or unable to guarantee such conditions, were deemed "cultur- ally challenging" and received little or no business from Nike (Katz, p. 172). With increasing frequency, Nike's production practices have erupted into the mainstream media causing a flurry of public relations activity. The first major eruption occurred on July 2nd, 1993, when CBS's Street Stories ran a segment that explored the contradic- tion between "a one-hundred dollar pair of sneakers and a worker making those sneakers being paid a dollar-fifty a day" (In Katz, p. 187), a contradic- tion that again emerged in late May of 1996, when, according to the media, consumers were dismayed to learn that their $130.00 Air Jordans (produced for $30.00 in Indonesia) had been made by poorly paid Indonesian workers, as well as sweatshop workers in New York City. Nike's response to such exposes exemplifies the central contradiction therein revealed. On one hand, Nike has defended its labor practices, claim- ing that the $1.50 paid to Indonesian workers was not really $1.50, but 3,000 rupiah and that, in any case, it was substantially more than the wages made by local farmers (Katz, p. 190). 22 When confronted with the fact that the mini- mum wage in Indonesia had been set below the poverty line, Nike retreated, D o w n l o a d e d
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CSMC 199 STABILE asserting that it was not their job to dictate just wages. As Katz puts it, "Only when foreign labor issues come up can a Nike manager be heard to say, 'We're not good enough to change that system'" (pp. 191-2). In the end, Nike's images merit far less attention than the realities those images are designed to conceal. Nike, like corporations in general, will use any image to sell its products, provid- ing that such images can be stitched into a seamless narrative that poses few contradictions for its consumers-a nar- rative designed to guarantee the very invisibilities outlined above. Certainly, the marketing of social responsibility works mainly for those more distant from economic necessitythose more likely to buy into the ideology of the corporation as global citizen. For those who recognize that "positive" role models do not pay the bills and that economic and political justice will not proceed from revarnished corporate images, Nike's veneer of social respon- sibility is less than persuasive. Nike's commercial image, like many such corporate images, absolutely de- pends on maintaining the invisibility of real contradictions for the consumer- ist caste. For example, female consum- ers of Nike products can only find Nike's ads progressive insofar as its largely female labor force (not to men- tion its masculinist corporate culture) remains out of sight. 2 $ For instance, one can believe that Nike's "If you let me play sports" ad signifies a commit- ment to women's liberation and em- powerment, as long as the Vietnamese women who make Nike shoes, work- ing 12-hour days for a wage of between $2.10 and $2.40 a day, are kept off the screen. Similarly, middle-class consum- ers may very well believe that Nike's use of African-American spokesper- sons indicates its commitment to people of color as long as nothing in the field of the media contradicts such a belief, or perhaps as long as journalists avoid mentioning that Michael Jordan's sal- ary may well be greater than the com- bined annual payroll of the six Indone- sian factories that make Nike shoes (Lipsyte, 1996, p. 2). For the consumer- ist caste, the PLAY campaign can ap- pear as a signifier for Nike's commit- ment to "social responsibility" because the contradiction between corporate production and employment practices and chronic unemployment in African- American communities remains out- side the screen or printed page. 24 To an extent, recent controversies involving Kathie Lee Gifford, Wal- Mart, and Nike have made visible some of these real contradictions. The target- ing of Gifford, Wal-Mart, Nike, J.C. Penney, and the Disney Store by labor activists like the National Labor Com- mittee, journalists like Bob Herbert, and activists like the Pittsburgh Labor Action Network for the Americas (PLANTA) is a strategic move that works to make visible some of the very contradictions discussed. Their pur- pose is not to boycott Air Jordans or Disney's popular Pocahontas doll (made by Haitian workers for eleven cents an hourhalf of Haiti's already pitiful minimum wage) because such a boycott would only encourage consum- ers to buy other products likely to have been made under similarly exploit- ative conditions. Rather, their purpose has been to bring such relations of production into consumers' range of vision by singling out those corpora- tions who sell their products on the basis of social responsibility, decent family values, and other nonsense, while at the same time engaging in labor practices that give the lie to their D o w n l o a d e d
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200 NIKE public propaganda. In a similar spirit, campus activists throughout the coun- try have been protesting their schools' contracts with Nike. Some schools have now adopted anti-sweatshop codes as a result of this activism. Yet another blow to Nike's public image occurred in Michael Moore's 1998 documentary, The Big One, in which Knight agreed to be interviewed on camera. In the interview, Moore gets Knight to agree to consider build- ing a shoe factory in his hometown of Flint, Michigan, if Moore can get local workers to agree to work there. When Moore returns to Nike headquarters with poignant footage of eager Flint workers, Knight-at this point, visibly uncomfortablecontinues to justify Nike's overseas practices by arguing that Americans "just don't want to make shoes." Just over a month after The Big One was released, Knight engaged in some damage control in an address to the National Press Club (Cushman, 1998, p. Cl). During his speech, he commit- ted Nike to raising the minimum age for hiring new workers and to meeting U.S. health and safety standards in all overseas factories. Nike did not, how- ever, pledge to raise wages. The sec- ond provision, on health and safety standards, could be significant if (and the significance of this if cannot be overemphasized) truly independent ob- servers are admitted into the plants. Moreover, since health and safety stan- dards are only haphazardly enforced in the U.S. these days, it seems less JUNE 2000 than probable that such regulations will be enforced with any commitment overseas. Furthermore, Knight's refer- ence to child labor was a public rela- tions coup, as Bob Herbert was swift to point out (Herbert, 1998, p. A27). Child labor was not a central problem at Nike's overseas plants: below subsis- tence-level wages (in China and Viet- nam, less than $2 a day; in Indonesia, less than $1 a day) and exploitative, unsafe working conditionsin which 77 percent of employees suffer from respiratory problemsare (Greenhouse, 1997, p. Al). In spite of Nike's ongoing damage control and because of the efforts of such organizations and individual activ- ists, corporations like Nike, Disney, Wal-Mart, and others have been less successful in managing public relations crises. Academics would be well ad- vised to take their cue from these ef- forts. Those who study the media and popular culture often spend a great deal of time analyzing what multina- tional corporations make visible in the form of advertising and corporate propaganda. In so doing, we only di- rect attention to what these corpora- tions want us to see. Unless our goal as critics is to contribute to their mar- ket research and to add further so- phistication to their advertising tech- niques, it might be more useful and politically effective for us to concen- trate on making visible those practices and realities that are routinely kept out of sight NOTES 1 Actually, the "war" had begun earlier, in 1985, with Nike's "Guns of August" campaign, which was a marketing push to win back retail floor space from Reebok. "Guns of August," however was unsuccessful: in 1986, Reebok had a 30 percent market share, while Nike had only 21 percent (Strasser & Becklund, 1991, p. 591). D o w n l o a d e d
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201 CSMC STABILE 2 For a suggestive analysis of television's impact on "instrumental crime," or "that aimed at acquiring money or property," see Hennigan, et al. (1982). 3 It is worth noting that media effects theories that focus on amorphous categories of violence are among the few critiques that media institutions are willing to make of themselves, although generally in the shape of criticizing entertainment programming rather than news or, especially, advertising (the single exception to this last being very mild critiques of children's programming and advertisements). In contrast to critiques of monopoly ownership of the media, media effects theory provides a simple explanation for social problems (i.e. "Kojak made me do it"), a quick and convenient fix (self-regulation), and an opportunity for some corporate promotion. 4 That the fear so central to the ideology of the suburbs is based on class interests rather than race was made clear in a Washington Post article on the African-American suburb of Perrywood in Prince George's County (a suburb where homes sell for between $180,000 and $300,000). The Perrywood Community Association decided to hire policemen to make sure that those using the basketball court could "prove that they 'belong in the area'." As one resident candidly put it, "People have a tendency to stick together because they want to maintain their property values, their homes-class issues. . . . We're just strong working people who want something nice. Race never entered the picture" (Saulny, 1996, A7). 5 Donald Katz is clear on the fact that Nike understood the sneaker wars as a "moral panic" in the sociological sense. 6 For a narrative that details the effects of Nike's recruitment policies within disadvantaged communities, see Darcy Frey's The Last Shot. 7 Charles Loring Brace's Dangerous Classes of New York and Twenty Years' Work Among Them and Jacob Riis's How the Other Half Lives: Studies Among the Tenements of New York offer stunning illustrations of this. 8 See Cyril D. Robinson's "The Production of Black Violence in Chicago" (1993), James R. Grossman's Land of Hope: Chicago, Black Southerners, and the Great Migration (1989), and Michael Katz, ed., (1993) The "Underclass" Debate: Views from History for historical accounts of this point. 9 It is worth mentioning that PLAY's emphasis on "free motion" and "fun" marks a departure from earlier athletic programs' emphasis on discipline, structure, and abstinence reflecting a shift from the religious inflection of past programs to the more contemporary logic of leisure and consumption. 11 For an excellent analysis of such inversions and their effects, see David Simon and Edward Burns's The Corner: A Year in the Life of an Inner-City Neighborhood. 12 Ben Bagdikian offers another illustration of this point in The Media Monopoly. In 1967, The New Yorker's circulation remained the same as it was the previous year (when the magazine reported a record number of ad pages), but the number of ad pages dropped by forty percent. The loss in ad pages was not because advertisers objected to the magazine's position on the Vietnam War, but because, largely as a result of this anti-war content, The New Yorker had begun to attract younger, less affluent readers. 13 Cheryl Cole's "PLAY, Nike, and Michael Jordan" (1996) provides a detailed reading of this and related aspects. 14 See Todd Putnam's "The GE Boycott: A Story NBC Wouldn't Buy" (1995) for a discussion of the media's management of consumer boycotts. 15 Nike's female niche market also exercises an influence over the content of Nike's ads that African-Americans do not In contrast to PUSH's boycott (which had no effect on advertising or corporate practices), when female consumers objected to a Nike commercial featuring triathlete Joanne Ernst, which ended with Ernst saying to the camera, "While you're at it, why don't you stop eating like a pig?" the ad was pulled within two weeks. 16 T. H. Lee, a Nike employee who has worked in Portland, the Philippines, and South Korea, described shoe manufacturing as "dirty, dangerous, and difficult Making shoes on a production D o w n l o a d e d
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202 NIKE JUNE 2000 line is something people do only because they see it as an important and lucrative job. Nobody who could do something else for the same wage would be here" (In Katz, p. 161). 17 One limitation of this analysis is its focus on U.S. consumption. Further research could usefully examine Nike's adoption of "global localization" from Japanese consultant Kenichi Ohmae's The Borderless World. In this, Ohmae argues that "at a per capita income level of $26,000, consumers went global and became, in effect, world consumers" (In Katz, p. 204). Asian MTV and Star TV (whose audience quadrupled between 1992 and 1993 alone) are marketing Nike products to this emerging global consumer caste. 18 In no way should this suggest that domestic manufacturing was the sole casualty of this shift For an analysis of the effects of this shift, both domestic and international, see Alex Callinicos' "Marxism and Imperialism Today" (1994). 19 In contrast, Reebok did not open its first factory in Korea until eight years after Nike in 1984. 20 Nike also successfully used advertising to push its corporate agenda. In 1979, during the ASP litigation, the company produced a video called "Yankee Freedom" that utilized a now familiar anti-government appeal to suggest that government regulations were driving Nike out of business. 21 Very few of the mainstream articles on Indonesian labor, including those written by Bob Herbert, are critical of the Indonesian government's overall murderous policies, including its genocidal treatment of the East Timorese. 22 This line of reasoning is typical of the capitalist press, where the exploitation of workers overseas is reduced to a problem in perception. As the New York Times' Larry Rohter recently observed, "What residents of a rich country like the United States see as exploitation can seem a rare opportunity to residents of a poor country like Honduras" (1996, p. 1). 23 For an example of a feminist argument about Nike's "progressive" ad campaigns, see Linda Scott's "Fresh LipstickRethinking Images of Women in Advertising." For some unintentionally hilarious descriptions of Nike-style capitalists as puking frat boys, see Strasser and Becklund's numerous anecdotes in Swoosh. 24 In the city where I live, for example, unemployment among young black men is 37 percent as opposed to 13 percent for white men. Only corporate apologists and certain consumers can afford to believe that any amount of midnight basketball or PLAY can remedy this situation. References Adler, W. M. (1995). Land of opportunity: One family's quest for the American dream in the age of crack. New York: The Atlantic Monthly Press. Bagdikian, B. H. (1992). The media monopoly. Boston: Beacon Press. Barron, J . (1991, August 22). Tension in Brooklyn. New York Times, p. 3. Brace, C. L. (1973). Dangerous classes of New York and twenty years' work among them. Washington, D.C.: National Association of Social Workers. Callinicos, A. (1994). Marxism and imperialism today. In A. Callinicos & C. Harman, Marxism and the new imperialism (pp. 11-66). Chicago: Bookmarks. Carby, H. (1992). The multicultural wars. In G. Dent (Ed.), Black popular culture (pp. 187-199). Seattle: Bay Press. Chicago schools troubled, Jordan and Nike to rescue (1992, November 2). Jet, 10. Cole, C. (1996). PLAY, Nike, and Michael Jordan: National fantasy and racialization of crime and punishment. Memphis, TN: Working papers in sport and leisure commerce. Cole, C., & Hribar, A. (1995). Celebrity feminism: Nike style, post-Fordism, transcendence, and consumer power. Sociology of Sport Journal, 12, 347-369. Cole, C., & Andrews, D. (1996). Look-it's NBA show time! Visions of race in the popular imaginary. Cultural Studies, 1, 141-181. D o w n l o a d e d
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203 CSMC STABILE Conover, K A. (1998, February 10). Why Johnny has to have those sneakers. Christian Science Monitor, p. 13. Cushman, J. H. (1998, May 13). Nike pledges to end child labor and apply U.S. rules abroad. New York Times, p. C1. Faison, S. (1991, October 20). Looted Crown Heights store reopens. New York Times, p. 25. Frey, D. (1994). The last shot: City streets, basketball dreams. New York: Simon & Schuster. Fritsch, J . (1992, July 18). Looters booty: A dream. New York Times, p. 25. Gifford, K. L. (1996, May 31). Controversy a chance to help more children. USA Today, p. 12A. Greenhouse, S. (1997, November 8). Nike shoe plant in Vietnam is called unsafe for workers. New York Times, p. A1. Grossman, J. R. (1989). Land of hope: Chicago, black southerners, and the great migration. Chicago: University of Chicago Press. Hall, S. (1990). The whites of their eyes: Racist ideologies and the media. In M. Alvarado and J. O. Thompson (Eds.), The media reader (pp. 7-23). London: BFI. Hennigan, K. et al. (1982). Impact of the introduction of television on crime in the United States: Empirical findings and theoretical implications. Journal of Personality and Social Psychology 42(3), 461-477. Herbert, B. (1996a, June 24). From sweatshops to aerobics. New York Times, p. A11. Herbert, B. (1998, May 21). Nike blinks. New York Times, p. A27. Herbert, B. (1997, March 31). Nike's boot camps. New York Times, p. Al 1. Herbert, B. (1996b J une 10). Nike's pyramid scheme. New York Times, p. A19. Hirschfield, L. (1997, April 20). Spike Lee's 30 seconds. New York Times Magazine, p. 36. Katz, D. (1994). Just do it: The Nike spirit in the corporate world. New York: Random House. Katz, M. (Ed). (1993). The "underclass" debate: Views from history. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press. Knight, P. (1996, June 21). Nike pays good wages to foreign workers. New York Times, p. A18. Lipsyte, R (1996, July 21). Pay for play: Jordan vs. old-timers. New York Times, Section 4, 2. Lomuscio, J. (1991, October 6). Fairfield City suburbs. New York Times, Connecticut Weekly Desk, p. 1. Marx, K. (1973). Grundrisse. Trans. M. Nicolaus. London: Penguin. Meehan, E. R (1993). Heads of household and ladies of the house: Gender, genre, and broadcast ratings, 1929-1990. In W. S. Solomon & R. W. McChesney (Eds.), Ruthless criticism: New perspectives in U.S. communication history (pp. 204-221). Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press. Nieves, E. (1994, December 26). Hartford becomes test case in fighting menace of gangs. New York Times, p. Al . Pogrebin, R (1996, July 22). A magazine only a mother could love? New York Times, p. Cl . Purdy, M. (1995, January 2). Drug turf is safer as dealers avoid streets. New York Times, p. Al . PUSH confab focuses on economic development and education advancement (1990, August 20). Jet, p. 24. PUSH holds first meeting with Nike, plans another (1990, August 20). Jet, p. 27. PUSH says Nike withdrawal campaign will continue (1990, September 3). Jet, p. 10. Putnam, T. (1995). The GE boycott: A story NBC wouldn't buy. The Best of EXTRA! New York, 10. Rifkin, G. (1992, January 5). All about basketball shoes. New York Times, section 3, 10. D o w n l o a d e d
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